We cruised across the Bahama Banks to the Exumas in two legs since our weather window seemed to be holding. The whole run from Bimini to the Exumas is about 160 nm, and we’ve done the trip in one shot on an overnight the previous two times. An overnight is a good way to chew […]
Tag Archives | Selene
We cross!
Blue Water Marina Resort That clear Bahamian water! Our weather window held, and we departed University Cove on Thursday, Mar. 3 at first light, headed for Bimini. Our crossing was relatively smooth despite having NNE winds around 10 kts. As crossings go, the rule of thumb is not to make one […]
University Cove
University Cove We departed Lauderdale Wednesday Feb. 24th and headed south towards Miami. We decided to stop off at University Cove, just across from Baker’s Haulover Inlet. It’s a location that cruising acquaintances have mentioned, so we thought it would be worth a look. It’s a delightful spot situated between Florida International University […]
Ft. Lauderdale
We arrived in Ft. Lauderdale on Jan. 24, a 43nm cruise from Lake Worth, and about 18 bridges we had to have raised. Ugh! We’ll do an outside run on this leg if the weather permits, it did not! Conditions outside were lousy, so we opted for the bridge dance over the sloppy seas. We […]
Salisbury Plain – South Georgia Island and home
January 8 – Salisbury Plain and Albatross Island
At dawn we reached our destination, which was barely visible in the mist, rain and fog. The swell was significant, and the wind was gusting to 40 knots. The Captain looked for a lee, and for a while it did not look good. Then the wind lessened and the Seabourn Quest moved closer to the Salisbury Plain and the immense King Penguin rookery, with 750,000 breeding pairs spread out over the hillsides and level ground between two glaciers. The penguins shared the beach with southern fur seals, elephant seals and opportunistic Great Petrels, Skua’s, Kelp Gulls and even some Terns. Even from the ship we could hear the cries of the King Penguins, sounding like wind moaning in the rigging of a ship. The surf was too high for a safe landing, so we cruised along the shore just outside the surf line. The rain and wind made the experience cold, but visually exciting, even though photos were difficult and poor quality in the flat light and rain
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| Patrick headed out on the final zodiac tour |
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| Cruising along the beach in front of the rookery |
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| The rookery stretches for more than 1 mile |
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| And to the top of the hills |
The abundance of life also meant that we saw death and feeding as the birds and seals did what they needed to do to survive. By 1130 all groups had had a chance to do a zodiac tour and the Seabourn Quest headed for Montevideo. The weather for at least the first 24 hours is for 4 meter seas on the beam with winds to 30 knots.
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| Marching into the sea |
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| Seeming to like doing it as a group |
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| King Penguins swimming |
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| Petrel feasting on a fur seal pup |
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| And arguing over a King Penguin |
As we departed in the rain and wind, Miriam and I stopped for lunch at the Patio Grill, all wrapped up in blankets and the 34 degree wind whipped around the diehards like us who like the menu, the staff and the ambiance of sitting outside watching the swells pass by the ship and the water sloshing out of the pool. The Thomas Keller burgers were good, as usual, along with a hot Gluvein wine and a warm rice pudding.
Returning to our stateroom, we both laid down for a nap and woke up barely in time to attend the final recap briefing from the expedition team before going to the Colonnade for a Tuscan buffet, joining Eva and Dave Schoonmaker. While there we saw what will probably be our last tabular iceberg of the trip, in the distance, but nearly 5 miles long.
The Seabourn Quest continues to rock and roll as we head into a weather system with winds predicted to increase for at least 24 hours as low pressure systems sweep eastward from the Pacific Ocean through the Drake Passage and into the Atlantic. The sun is setting and we can see squall lines on the horizon as the seas continue to build from the west, rolling towards us relentlessly. At least we no longer have blackout conditions and can leave the stateroom drapes open.
We have finished Antarctica, and it will take some time to digest what we saw. The Chilean fjords seem like a dream from the past, and we will never look at SE Alaska in quite the same way.
January 9 – At Sea
During the night we continued on a direct course for Montevideo. The wind and seas continued unabated from the west, putting them nearly on the beam. Even a ship the size of ours, even stabilized, rocked, rolled and slammed through the the night. Morning brought partly cloudy skies and swells greater than 5 meters right on the beam.
January 10 – At Sea
Another day of heavy seas, winds and general discomfort as we slogged NW towards Montevideo. Today was the crew epicurean event on the Patio, with foods and drinks from a number of nations. We ended up eating dinner at the Patio Grill rather than changing into “elegant casual” attire. Patrick attended some of the final lectures of the cruise.
January 11 – At Sea
The weather is finally improving, with calm seas and lower winds. Packing for the trip home started. Lunch at the patio grill, a session in the bow whirlpool and the crew farewell with the last formal dinner capped off the evening. We also got a bridge tour.
January 12 – Montevideo
As the sun rose, the Seabourn Quest pulled into the breakwater protecting the harbor. Outside the breakwater was a mass of abandoned and sinking fishing vessels. The ship docked at the commercial port, just a few slips from the Zaandam, which we had last seen cruising in Antarctica several weeks ago.
Our shore excursion started with a bus tour of the city, with several photo stops. We then went slightly out of the city to the Bouza Winery for a tour, tasting and lunch, which turned into a fiasco, with slow service, not enough food and general lack of ability to handle the number of guests. Returning to the ship we gathered for final drinks and chats with our cruising friends of the last 24 days before returning to the suite to finalize packing and leave the bags outside the door.
January 13 – Buenos Aires
Due to a small cruise terminal and several ships, we left the Seabourn Quest at 0745. We were greeted by the Captain and staff as we left, very moving.
After some minor confusion outside the terminal getting into our private van to the hotel, we entered the lobby of the Park Hyatt about 0830 and then had to wait until 1000 for a room, as there were an equal number of guests checking out to get on the ship for the next voyage. Relaxing on the terrace over coffee we phoned Carlos Ormachea and arranged to meet for dinner. The rest of the day was spent walking in the Recoleta area of the city, visiting the impressive cemetery, churches and then lunch at a German themed restaurant.
Meeting Carlos at 2000, we headed to an Argentine beef restaurant just a few blocks from the hotel and gorged on three different kinds of beef while catching up on 29 years. Returning to the hotel, we sat on the terrace and sipped single malt whiskey and coffee before calling it a night at 1230 am.
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| Sloan Fellow Classmate Carlos Ormachea with Miriam & Patrick |
January 14, Buenos Aires
After a leisurely breakfast on the terrace of the Duhua Palace (Park Hyatt), we headed to the Estancia Santa Susanna for a day with the Gauchos and another beef extravaganza. Returning to the hotel we found the “Sorrento” Mediterranean Bistro for a light seafood dinner before a nightcap on the terrace of the hotel.
January 15 – Buenos Aires to Dallas
After another lazy morning, a brief tour of the area, we had lunch at a local sandwich shop and then to the airport. The check-in process was slow, but we got to the lounge, found a power outlet that worked and then boarded our American Airlines flight to Dallas. The 777, while old, was adequate and the crew provided a loaner charger for our iPads. The service was great!
January 16 – Dallas to Vancouver
Our flight landed just as US Customs was opening at 0500. We did not have to claim our bags; they were transferred directly to the Vancouver flight. Finding a lounge close to our gate, we were able to use the showers and relax until our flight was called at 0900. The flight was on-time and uneventful, as was the customs and immigration procedures in Vancouver.
It’s All Happening at the Zoo
It’s all Happening at the Zoo One of the ‘must do’ deals in Coron is the visit the Calcuit Island Safari Park. Most of us remember the antics of Ferdinand Marcos, long time ruler of the Philippines. He is made most famous not for his high jinks but for his wife’s obsession with shoes. When they finally confiscated his fortunes, all taken from the good people of the Philippines, her collection of thousands of pairs of expensive shoes was discovered. Those sequenced kicks that once adorned th…
It’s All Happening at the Zoo
It’s all Happening at the Zoo
One of the “must do” deals in Coron is the visit the Calcuit Island Safari Park. Most of us remember the antics of Ferdinand Marcos, long time ruler of the Philippines. He is made most famous not for his high jinks but for his wife’s obsession with shoes. When they finally confiscated his fortunes, all taken from the good people of the Philippines, her collection of thousands of pairs of expensive shoes was discovered. Those sequenced kicks that once adorned the paws of the reigning lady are now in a museum in Manila.
Of all the opulence, corruption and shenanigans of the former ruler, one stands out with merit, the saving of these endangered African animals.. in the 70’s Marcos cut a deal with an African leader to save a cornucopia of critters from the war torn area. Imagine him coming home to the palace after a long day of milking his followers and greeting his well shod wife with “Honey, we bought a Zoo” Money can do good even in the hands of shysters it seems, so a ship load of doomed rare creatures landed on this island and thrive there to this today.
We took the trip to the east side of Busanga Island and dropped the hook in the narrow bay that separates it from Culsuit Island. The next morning we rose early and took the dinghy to the ranger station. This put us well ahead of any tourist boats coming from Coron. We were greeted by the staff, paid our fess and jumped into the 1950’s style Willey’s Jeep. For me the jeep ride is one of the highlights, this old Korean War relict had the original 4 cylinder diesel engine putt putting it along.
The girls got their first glimpse of a giraffe right off, extracting squeals and excitement. The guide took us to the feeding platform where only a small fence keeps those two huge giraffe toes from planting on yours. We were given leaf covered branches to feed the long necked wonder. Neither Heli, our new Finnish crew, nor Donna had ever fed a giraffe, who has? so it was a thrill.
We then popped back in the jeep and covered the African like grass lands of the island. We see zebra’s, local endangered deer and more giraffes.
There are a few critters in cages, some for protection some to keep visible but most run free. The terrain, vegetation and climate are very similar to the region of Africa they animals came from. The original stock arrived in 1977, so none of the original animals are still alive but they have left a legacy, all of the animals we saw were “island born” and prospering well.
We did the jeep ride, girls on top, back to the ranger station, thanked our guides and took the dinghy back to Furthur, all with a new experience to talk about, and new memories the cherish.
Make Your Dream Your Story
Capt. Brian Calvert
MV Furthur
www.furthuradventures.com
Catching up, Leaving Davao
Good By Davao After pondering the typhoon riddled weather reports, i found a window to head back out into the Pacific and up the coast we go. Again it is with a tear and a smile that we leave Davao as we have grown to love Samal Island and our marina friends. Our return there a month ago was bittersweet as we left a place of peace and returned to a place of fear. After the hostage taking the marina looked more like a war zone base, machine gun totting military guards and iron gates now dominated the area. Machine guns and guards aside, life went on as usual; the Friday BBQ’s and our Wednesday night jam sessions continued all with tight security. We even had a M-16 armed guard next to our band! A huge banner of the hostages hangs from the club house now, a solemn reminder. The talk in the marina always shifted back to the hostage taking and what might come next. Rumors flourished in the vacuum of real information. It is apparent after nearly four months that the government is doing diddly to rescue our friends. We pray for their safe return. Many of our cruising friends joined us in Davao, but most either left their boats and flew home for the holidays or stayed a short time. By the time we left the population had decreased so leaving was a bit easier.
The trick to traveling north during the northeast monsoon season, ie wind on the nose, is to follow a big storm up the coast. A huge low pressure, the kind that spawn typhoons will break up the pounding trade winds giving a four to five day window. After hours of pondering weather sites i found just such a window but it was short as another system was following close behind. We left Davao with our friends Eric and Christy who came along for the ride. Note here that with the security risks of Davao, my usual source of crew just did not work. For the first time i did not have eager girls waiting to join us, understandably so. Also given the risks, without disclosing details, let’s just say i was well prepared for defense. We made the 250 mile run up the coast in calm seas, never more than 10 knots of wind. The preceding typhoon did leave some big rolling swells but nothing uncomfortable. A 36 hour run followed by a night at anchor and a long day and we were inside the islands again, and none too soon. Another front blasted in as we found a safe anchorage inside the islands. The next ordeal is winding through an intricate passage way. There is a short cut that puts you under a low hanging power cable, the sailboats cannot pass but we did “just under the wire”. With blind luck we hit the current right and spend through the pass hitting 14 knots at one point, yahoo. The second storm gave us what i call “car wash rains” for the night, we found a couple new tiny leaks on that one. The wind hit 40 knots and cycled around indicating the end of the storm. The next day we enjoyed sunny skies and calm winds as we returned to Cebu and the Cebu Yacht Club. First mission: get to the new Star Wars movie!!!
Grytviken South Georgia Island – Part 2 – The Whaling Station
The whaling station has been closed for 50 years, and is rusting away, except for the museum, church, graveyard and the British Antarctic Survey station on King Edward Point. Nonetheless, a rich photo opportunity. We did not know it, but du…
Grytviken – South Georgia Island – Part 1
Part 1 – The Wildlife
January 7 – Grytviken – South Georgia Island
Shortly after dawn the Seabourn Quest approached Grytviken. The terminal moraines of several glaciers were littered with the wrecks of vessels, looking like large rocks on the barely visible shallows.
Seabourn Quest anchored near King Edward Point, the site of part of the British Antarctic Survey and the former whaling processing station of Grytviken. The station was in active operation until December 1966. The brisk winds caused the kayaking tours to be cancelled, but the zodiac trips ashore went as scheduled.
The weather was variable, with everything from sun to rain and then some snow, We visited Shakleton’s gravesite, toured the whaling station, church, museum, post office and walked among the fur and elephant seals while watching the King Penguins wander around.
Grytviken was a rich photo environment, with the rust tones, the seals, penguins and green tussock grass. Some of the station has been torn down because of asbestos contamination. Several old whaling vessels are rusting away on the shoreline and will probable be gone in a few years as they collapse into rust.
The first post is some of the wildlife we saw in Grytviken.
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| Approaching Grytviken from the sea |
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| Miriam with King Penguins |
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| The King Penguins keep cool by standing in water |
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| Sharing the tussock grass with seals |
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| Or just wandering around alone |
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| The King Penguins seem somber |
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| And waiting for their ship to comein. |
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| Totally unconcerned by our presence |
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| The fur seals generally ignored us |
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| But showed teeth every once in a while |
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| The tussock grass makes a good pillow |
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| But apparently ditches work just as well |
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| Add caption |
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| The sea lions were having mock battles in the shallows |
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| But for the pups, sleeping on the beach was just fine |
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| Add caption |
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| The old machinery makes a great playground |
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| The old ships make a great backdrop |
Some of the scientists came on board for lectures about their research and life at Grytviken. Many of them joined us for dinner, which was apparently better than their standard fare at the station, since they only get fresh supplies every six weeks or so. They consider themselves fortunate, since their compatriots on the Antarctic continent only get supplied once a year.
