Tag Archives | Nordhavn

Tromsø Arrival

A couple of years after first planning it, we finally arrived in Tromsø, Norway. At 69°39′ N, Tromsø is the most northerly destination we would bring Dirona this year. With a population of 67,000, the city is the largest in northern Norway, with the highest number of pubs per capita than any other in the…

[kensblog] Victoria BC to Montague Harbor


After five days at the dock in Victoria Canada we decided to run a short distance north to an anchorage we enjoyed last year, called Montague Harbor.   In the Pacific Northwest (PNW) one must pay close attention to the currents. There are narrow passages that can only be traversed at certain times and strong currents that can push you or slow you down. As I studied our run I could see that we had a choice of leaving early in the morning and traveling against the current for seven hours, or le…
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Continental Shelf

The continental shelf runs within five miles of the Norwegian coast off the island of Andøya, 25 miles north of Stø. As we crossed, the sea bottom plummeted from 350 feet to 1034 feet in a short distance and continued down to over 3,000 ft (900 m). The deep cold water at the continental shelf…

Dronningruta

Dronningruta is a strenuous (for us) 9-mile (15km) mountain loop walk between Stø and Nyksund with exceptional scenery. Dronnigruta means “The Queen’s Route”—the trail was named in honour of Queen Sonja of Norway who walked the trail in 1994. The pictures we’ve seen of the trail in the summer look beautiful, but the previous night’s…

Finnvågen

With some calm weather in the forecast, we departed Eidsfjorden to cruise the dramatic west coast of Langøya. We anchored for the night at spectacular Finnvågen, where we hiked ashore and toured the area by tender. The Norwegian scenery continues to impress us. Below are trip highlights from June 6th in the Vesterålen islands, Norway….

Eidsfjorden

Eidsfjorden lies along the south side of Langøya in the Vesterålen islands. From Stockmarknes, our plan was to cruise the exposed west coast. But with several weather systems in the forecast, we stopped for four nights in Eidsfjorden, first at scenic Oldenfjord and later at snug and beautiful Nordvågen. We woke up one morning to…

Short Legs – Easy Days – Long Post

This year we’ve not felt the urge to push ourselves or the boat. There’s no specific plan other than to be north of Florida and we’ve accomplished that already. Hoping to resist complication and just be, we’re patiently allowing opportunity to be our inspiration. It’s said, “Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity”: We’re prepared and opportunity will appear sooner or later … so maybe we’ll get lucky — maybe we already are.

No, we’ll not put a lot of distance behind us this way, but we’re not sure where we’re going anyway so it really doesn’t matter.

On this day we’re tied up at Harborwalk Marina in Georgetown, SC.

We’ve spent time here before and found the town to be a genuinely friendly little place. Just off the beaten path and very quiet, there’s a beautiful little harbor. On the other side of Front St the neighborhood is covered up in history, many of the homes were built in the 1700s and they’re kept historically correct. Down the street we’ve found a number of bonafide low country restaurants, clothing stores, a barber, and almost anything one might need. Reckoning the whole might be better than the sum of it’s parts, chances are, Georgetown may offer us an opportunity to get acquainted.

The getting here has been good. We’re enjoying the trip and the boat seems to be happy as well. The long run up the Florida coast was a good idea, but for now we’ll do a few short legs and take it easy. We’ve jokingly tagged this portion of our cruise, The Shrimp and Grits Run — and for good reason.

Sunset over marsh grass at high tide – Brunswick Landing Marina

catching up

Done with Florida and arrived Georgia, we stay in the Brunswick area for a few days. Having been Mel’s hometown and much time spent here in the past, it’s familiar to us.

Over the years there were many rich memories formed in Brunswick. Mostly simple pleasures like shelling peas or heading shrimp and cleaning crabs; our best memories are from the many Christmases we spent here. These big holiday get-togethers always ended with the traditional Oyster Roast. On a cold night family and friends would gather around a hot oak fire and drink a lot of beer as we shucked and devoured bushels of fire roasted oysters. Mel’s Dad loved putting all of this together and he worked hard at it: Sourcing the oysters, building the fire, even cleaning up the aftermath was a task he thoroughly enjoyed.
We all miss Mr. Ralph. Yes, Brunswick is familiar to us.

Like many times before, we shopped the Farmer’s Market on Saturday morning to buy fresh peas and  boiled peanuts. Local Georgia Cracker gourmet delights.

Next, we motored over to St Simons Island and Golden Isles Marina. Borrowing the marina courtesy car, we had lunch at Barbara Jeans – Shrimp and Grits and Crab Cakes.
A St Simons tradition, a fine little southern style family restaurant. 

A little work was done for the marina then a quick weather check showed the seas were gonna be favorable. It was decided to move on to Hilton Head.

Leaving St Simons at sunrise on a falling tide we caught a nice ride with the current all the way out the long ship channel.

A few hours into the trip our favorable seas started changing as did the wind. Now a head sea, but not bad, just sloppy enough to make sure I washed the boat once we arrived at Harbour Town Yacht Basin. 
By the end of the day the waves had turned fairly chunky and we butted our way round Savannah into Hilton Head. 
Being the 4th of July, Harbour Town and Sea Pines Resort was swarming with lots of folks doing what lots folks do on Independence Day. That night, much to our young pup Muddy’s dismay, there was a world class fireworks show.
We always enjoy our time here and particularly like the resort’s restaurants. (Yes, Shrimp and Grits and a bowl of Gumbo.) This is a very well managed, award winning, marina. Harbormaster Nancy Cappelmann makes sure everything is top-notch.
A few days later we moved over to Shelter Cove Marina. Still on Hilton Head island, just further inland and up a creek.  Shelter Cove is pretty cool. many places to eat (Shrimp and Grits), a coffee shop, a French bakery, and other businesses that cater to tourist. At one time there were two different bands playing at two different restaurants and both singing different Jimmy Buffett tunes. Cheeseburger in Paradise on one side, Margaritaville on the other… – I guess some things never change. 
There was a strange weather anomaly, that soon became Hurricane Chris, sitting off the Carolina Coast and it wouldn’t leave. At first we thought it prudent to hang out at Hilton Head and keep and eye on the storm, so we moved back to Harbour Town. Waking the next morning and checking the latest weather info things looked much better so we decided to take off and head North. Charleston was our next stop and we needed to be there at 4PM for slack tide. (if you’ve ever boated in this area you understand the slack tide thing.) 
All day long the winds were calm and the ocean was slick, but as we got within 10 miles of Charleston the breeze picked up. Still nothing harsh, however off to the west dark clouds were building up over land. By the time we reach the ship channel everything changed. Wind gusts of 25/30 were turning our nice slick ocean into angry gray seas; a full blown thunderstorm was hovering over the entrance. 
Weighing the options of circling around out in the ocean and waiting for the storm to pass or pounding our way up the channel, straight into a threatening squall — we chose the latter – hoping for the best when we arrive on time with slack water. Damn the lightning, full speed ahead.
And… that worked out well. In drizzling rain we eased into the marina at exactly 4:00 and tied up. Then the skies cleared.            Yes, all’s well that ends well.  ☺︎
It was interesting tying up at a marina with an Aircraft Carrier – Patriot’s Point

Charleston Harbor was full so they put us out on the far edge. It was rough. All night the boat would rock and heel over from the wakes of big ships passing by. We woke the next morning, finished doing what we came for, made the necessary calls, and moved a few miles up the ICW to Isle of Palms Marina.

Isle of Palms Marina isn’t really anything exceptional, however on a sunny Saturday afternoon it’s the center of the universe. Hundreds of small boats use the ramp to load and unload. There was a band playing outside and 2 restaurants (one serving Shrimp and Grits with Alligator Gravy) and a nicely stocked tackle/grocery/deli. It was incredibly busy, but not in a bad way. Everyone was friendly and courteous and a good time was being had in bulk. It was fun to watch.
I put the double finger slip to good use. It allowed me to get to Istaboa’s port side and easily do a badly needed cleaning. It’s disturbing to find what happens to the forsaken side of an asymmetrical salon boat. Out of sight, out of mind.
13 years and we still love this boat 
We stayed here for 2 nights then left mid-day to run the skinny ICW to Georgetown. McClellanville is the snag on this stretch with a reported 4′ water depths at low tide, however I  believe this is falsely reported. (Boat geek stuff) We went through 2 hours after low tide and never saw less than 3.5′ under our keel — (which by my calculations would make it 7′ MLLW.)  We were fortunate to be leaving on a rising tide; the current pushing us all the way to Georgetown. When we hit Winyah Bay, we were clocking 12 knots. Got in at 6:30.

So here we are, Georgetown – livin’ easy.  It’s a cool little town and we’re thinking we should to get to know it better.
So far every restaurant has been better than the last. (wonder if they have a gym)
The best to date— Shrimp and Grits with Pork Sauce — The River Room.

Harborwalk Marina is new (still being built) with floating docks; a nice clean little marina and Harbormaster Chris Carroll’s intent is to make it even better. 
Taking a walk across town looking for a pharmacy, I took the scenic route. This old town is lovely.  
Old Antebellum, Low Country Charm

No, we’re not sure when or where we’ll be heading next. Mel would like to visit Bald Head Island at Cape Fear, she has a knack for picking good places to go – so that seems likely.

In the meantime, life’s pretty good.

Something worth reading: What’s the hurry?

Adios

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

Stokmarknes

In 1893, Norwegian ship captain Richard With founded the Hurtigruten coastal ferry service in Stokmarknes, where he lived and worked. At that time, no year-round scheduled ferry existed in northern Norway. The Hurtigruten pioneered the service and became a vital link between northern Norway and the rest of the country. A century later, when the…

Bye Bye Birdie

It’s been almost a year since my last blog, mostly because Seabird has been sitting at Old Port Cove in Florida waiting to be sold. Boats like ours are meant to be cruised and provide countless adventures for its owners. Seabird has done all of that and more over the 15 years that we have owned her.   On May 31, we passed the ownership papers to her new owner. Both Carol and I had mixed emotions about it. We were sad to see her go, but happy to see the excitement in the eyes of the new owners. …
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[kensblog] Victoria Canada


Greetings from Sans Souci! Roberta and I really have only one goal for our cruising this summer: To relax. It’s a long story, but we’ve had a lot happening in our personal lives over the past year (sold our place in Mexico, building a house, help one of our mothers move into a senior community, among other things). Our goal is to find a couple of quiet anchorages, tune out the world, and just be mellow for a while.   After several days of enjoying ourselves at our home port of Roche Harbor …
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