“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them”. – Unknown
Just a few of the doors we saw. We went back to this little street the next night for dinner.
“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them”. – Unknown
Just a few of the doors we saw. We went back to this little street the next night for dinner.
“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them”. – Unknown
Blog Post 5 – Pohnpei and Nan Madol
September 13, 2024
Before it was fully light, Seabourn Pursuit took up position outside the barrier reef near the harbor entrance for Pohnpei and the town of Kolonia. Pohnpei is about 21 KM in diameter, surrounded by a fringing barrier reef. Pohnpei is also the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia and the island has a population of about 30,000. There were a number of freighters anchored inside the barrier reef, but the lagoon has many shallow spots and is not really suitable for a ship the size of Seabourn Pursuit.
The trip into the municipal wharf was about 15 minutes-3 miles in the zodiacs.
Patrick had arranged an independent tour to meet Yvonne and David Hawkins. David is one of the sons of Tom and Joyce Hawkins, long time friends in Anacortes. I was given a great tour of the local area before returning to the wharf for the trip to Nan Madol.
Pohnpei |
Japanese Tanks from the war |
The preamble to the FSM Constitution |
Capital Entrance to FSM |
Nan Madol is a mysterious set of stone structures located at the southwest corner of Pohnpei, 93 artificial islets in the lagoon are linked by stone causeways. Archeologists believe the structures were constructed in the 1200’s by the Sandeleur dynasty and were occupied up to about 1628.
The name Nan Madol means “within the intervals” and is a reference to the canals that crisscross the ruins. The original name was Soun Nan-leng, “Reef of Heaven,” according to Gene Ashby in his book Pohnpei, An Island Argosy.
The site measures about 1.5 by 0.5 KM. Not much is really known about the dynasty or the civilization that occupied Nan Madol. Nan Madol is sometimes referred to as “the Venice of the Pacific” or even as “Atlantis”.
In the four hundred years since Nan Madol was abandoned, the jungle is slowly taking over and hence it is listed as a “Threatened World Heritage Site.
Nan Madol is at the opposite end of Pohnpei from the capital, Kolonia, a drive of 26 miles or 1 ½ hours on narrow, rutted, winding roads. Our drive was in intense rain showers.
Arriving at the trailhead in heavy rain, we started down the trail, ducking under a tree that had fallen earlier in the day. The trail is made of both chunks of coral and rocks, not level at all. There were a series of crude bridges across flooded areas in the mangrove swamps. The final approach to the ruins included wading through knee deep water on a sandy bottom.
Window construction |
Mangrove Swamps surround the ruins |
Unique and stable construction |
Looking across the final channel to the main ruins |
Blocks scattered everywhere |
One of the many bridges on the trail |
The basalt stones are stacked like logs in layers alternating directions, creating a very stable structure without any mortar. In this climate, no mortar was needed. The shape of the basalt logs is not round, but mostly 4, 5, or 6 sided. Only the main temple has been excavated, but represents just a fraction of the entire complex.
Returning back to the trailhead, two more trees had fallen across the trail, so we had to scramble through the trunks and branches blocking our path. Patrick’s van took up the last position as security for the bus ahead, which had engine problems. Sure enough, some 25 KM from the wharf the bus finally stalled again, so we were sent ahead to get a replacement bus. The local fire medics that had accompanied us on the trail were there also and stayed with the bus. Pohnpei is very rugged, with hills to 2500 feet, so the portable radios were useless until within a mile or so of the wharf. The height of the hills also attracts intense rain, with Pohnpei getting some 7600 mm of rain per year, one of the wettest places on Earth.
A replacement bus was ordered when we got into cell phone range (Pohnpei has a proprietary cell phone system and USA phones do not work), so everyone arrived safely back in the dark to the wharf only an hour or so late. The crew had beverages and appetizers waiting at the gangway for all of us who were delayed.
Patrick had just time for a quick shower before meeting Miriam and Julie for dinner.
Blog Post 5 – Pohnpei and Nan Madol
September 13, 2024
Before it was fully light, Seabourn Pursuit took up position outside the barrier reef near the harbor entrance for Pohnpei and the town of Kolonia. Pohnpei is about 21 KM in diameter, surrounded by a fringing barrier reef. Pohnpei is also the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia and the island has a population of about 30,000. There were a number of freighters anchored inside the barrier reef, but the lagoon has many shallow spots and is not really suitable for a ship the size of Seabourn Pursuit.
The trip into the municipal wharf was about 15 minutes-3 miles in the zodiacs.
Patrick had arranged an independent tour to meet Yvonne and David Hawkins. David is one of the sons of Tom and Joyce Hawkins, long time friends in Anacortes. I was given a great tour of the local area before returning to the wharf for the trip to Nan Madol.
Pohnpei |
Japanese Tanks from the war |
The preamble to the FSM Constitution |
Capital Entrance to FSM |
Nan Madol is a mysterious set of stone structures located at the southwest corner of Pohnpei, 93 artificial islets in the lagoon are linked by stone causeways. Archeologists believe the structures were constructed in the 1200’s by the Sandeleur dynasty and were occupied up to about 1628.
The name Nan Madol means “within the intervals” and is a reference to the canals that crisscross the ruins. The original name was Soun Nan-leng, “Reef of Heaven,” according to Gene Ashby in his book Pohnpei, An Island Argosy.
The site measures about 1.5 by 0.5 KM. Not much is really known about the dynasty or the civilization that occupied Nan Madol. Nan Madol is sometimes referred to as “the Venice of the Pacific” or even as “Atlantis”.
In the four hundred years since Nan Madol was abandoned, the jungle is slowly taking over and hence it is listed as a “Threatened World Heritage Site.
Nan Madol is at the opposite end of Pohnpei from the capital, Kolonia, a drive of 26 miles or 1 ½ hours on narrow, rutted, winding roads. Our drive was in intense rain showers.
Arriving at the trailhead in heavy rain, we started down the trail, ducking under a tree that had fallen earlier in the day. The trail is made of both chunks of coral and rocks, not level at all. There were a series of crude bridges across flooded areas in the mangrove swamps. The final approach to the ruins included wading through knee deep water on a sandy bottom.
Window construction |
Mangrove Swamps surround the ruins |
Unique and stable construction |
Looking across the final channel to the main ruins |
Blocks scattered everywhere |
One of the many bridges on the trail |
The basalt stones are stacked like logs in layers alternating directions, creating a very stable structure without any mortar. In this climate, no mortar was needed. The shape of the basalt logs is not round, but mostly 4, 5, or 6 sided. Only the main temple has been excavated, but represents just a fraction of the entire complex.
Returning back to the trailhead, two more trees had fallen across the trail, so we had to scramble through the trunks and branches blocking our path. Patrick’s van took up the last position as security for the bus ahead, which had engine problems. Sure enough, some 25 KM from the wharf the bus finally stalled again, so we were sent ahead to get a replacement bus. The local fire medics that had accompanied us on the trail were there also and stayed with the bus. Pohnpei is very rugged, with hills to 2500 feet, so the portable radios were useless until within a mile or so of the wharf. The height of the hills also attracts intense rain, with Pohnpei getting some 7600 mm of rain per year, one of the wettest places on Earth.
A replacement bus was ordered when we got into cell phone range (Pohnpei has a proprietary cell phone system and USA phones do not work), so everyone arrived safely back in the dark to the wharf only an hour or so late. The crew had beverages and appetizers waiting at the gangway for all of us who were delayed.
Patrick had just time for a quick shower before meeting Miriam and Julie for dinner.
September 12, 2024 – Oroluk Lagoon
Overnight the ship travelled to Oroluk Lagoon. There were still some residual effects of the low pressure zone the ship passed through on the voyage from Guam. The ship motions were not as extreme, but still there were shudders as particularly large swells brought the bulbous bow out of the water. The ship’s clocks will also be set forward one hour tonight as we continue eastward towards our destination, so we lose an hour of sleep.
Oroluk Lagoon |
Oroluk Lagoon is a marine sanctuary and part of Pohnpei State in the Federated States of Micronesia. The lagoon is a nesting site for Green Turtles and a breeding colony for Black Noddies and other seabirds. There is only one island left on the atoll, which measures 12 by 20 miles. The rest have been washed away by tropical cyclones over the years. There are bananas and Taro plantations on the island, with just a few semi-permanent residents from the Kapinga district of Pohnpei, who are supplied twice a year by ship. The atoll was “discovered” by Spanish explorers in 1565, but was probably known to the Micronesian people in the area.
Tomorrow the captain will position the ship off the northwest corner of the fringing barrier reef. The ship will not enter the lagoon itself, nor will anyone go ashore. Our activities will consist of submersible dives alongside a 800 foot deep wall and snorkeling in a different area, also alongside a wall where the fringing reef begins. This will be a more strenuous snorkel experience, only for strong swimmers, due to both water depth and tidal currents in and out of the lagoon through a few passes. Patrick, Miriam and Julie decided to let others partake of this experience.
The ship plans to arrive at 0800 and depart at 1630. Patrick is currently scheduled for Dive #1 at 0900. This dive will be a new dive for Seabourn Pursuit, going down the wall to a depth of about 200 meters, or 660 feet. It should be dark at that depth, so the submersible will be using lights to illuminate the wall and allow passengers to see the variety and different life forms as the submersible moves down the wall and loses the surface light.
For those guests not going on the submersibles or snorkeling there will a variety of lectures and activities, very similar to a day at sea.
OK, what really happened.
The weather cooperated as we approached Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the atoll, the only island remaining on the atoll. Seabourn Pursuit arrived about 0800 and positioned in a small lee about 1500 feet from the fringing reef and held position with dynamic positioning.
Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the lagoon |
The submersibles and zodiacs were launched and promptly at 0900 operations commenced. Patrick was fortunate to be on the first dive, along with the ship videographer. The plan was to reach 200 meters in depth and then approach the wall of the fringing reef. At 50 meters from the wall and 200 meters depth the visibility was so good that we could see the wall clearly without lights. There was not much life here, but at 150 meters depth we saw oceanic sharks. Slowly ascending to the surface the life increased until at 50 meters there was an abundance of sea life and coral.
50 meters from the wall at 200 meters depth |
Just before lunch Patrick headed out for a short snorkeling session on the reef wall, despite originally planning to avoid. There were a lot of different types of fish, including a small reef shark, but the coral near the surface was largely dead even though at deeper depths we saw some massive coral formations.
Seabourn Pursuit continued to hold position throughout the afternoon while everyone who wanted to snorkel had a chance and at 1530 we headed around the east side of the atoll and set a course west for Pohnpei, some 200 NM away, our next stop and the location of Nan Madol, a World Heritage Site threatened by climate change.
The rain squalls held off so we experienced the Seabourn Signature “Caviar in the Pool” event at 1700, followed by a expedition recap at 1800.
September 12, 2024 – Oroluk Lagoon
Overnight the ship travelled to Oroluk Lagoon. There were still some residual effects of the low pressure zone the ship passed through on the voyage from Guam. The ship motions were not as extreme, but still there were shudders as particularly large swells brought the bulbous bow out of the water. The ship’s clocks will also be set forward one hour tonight as we continue eastward towards our destination, so we lose an hour of sleep.
Oroluk Lagoon |
Oroluk Lagoon is a marine sanctuary and part of Pohnpei State in the Federated States of Micronesia. The lagoon is a nesting site for Green Turtles and a breeding colony for Black Noddies and other seabirds. There is only one island left on the atoll, which measures 12 by 20 miles. The rest have been washed away by tropical cyclones over the years. There are bananas and Taro plantations on the island, with just a few semi-permanent residents from the Kapinga district of Pohnpei, who are supplied twice a year by ship. The atoll was “discovered” by Spanish explorers in 1565, but was probably known to the Micronesian people in the area.
Tomorrow the captain will position the ship off the northwest corner of the fringing barrier reef. The ship will not enter the lagoon itself, nor will anyone go ashore. Our activities will consist of submersible dives alongside a 800 foot deep wall and snorkeling in a different area, also alongside a wall where the fringing reef begins. This will be a more strenuous snorkel experience, only for strong swimmers, due to both water depth and tidal currents in and out of the lagoon through a few passes. Patrick, Miriam and Julie decided to let others partake of this experience.
The ship plans to arrive at 0800 and depart at 1630. Patrick is currently scheduled for Dive #1 at 0900. This dive will be a new dive for Seabourn Pursuit, going down the wall to a depth of about 200 meters, or 660 feet. It should be dark at that depth, so the submersible will be using lights to illuminate the wall and allow passengers to see the variety and different life forms as the submersible moves down the wall and loses the surface light.
For those guests not going on the submersibles or snorkeling there will a variety of lectures and activities, very similar to a day at sea.
OK, what really happened.
The weather cooperated as we approached Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the atoll, the only island remaining on the atoll. Seabourn Pursuit arrived about 0800 and positioned in a small lee about 1500 feet from the fringing reef and held position with dynamic positioning.
Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the lagoon |
The submersibles and zodiacs were launched and promptly at 0900 operations commenced. Patrick was fortunate to be on the first dive, along with the ship videographer. The plan was to reach 200 meters in depth and then approach the wall of the fringing reef. At 50 meters from the wall and 200 meters depth the visibility was so good that we could see the wall clearly without lights. There was not much life here, but at 150 meters depth we saw oceanic sharks. Slowly ascending to the surface the life increased until at 50 meters there was an abundance of sea life and coral.
50 meters from the wall at 200 meters depth |
Just before lunch Patrick headed out for a short snorkeling session on the reef wall, despite originally planning to avoid. There were a lot of different types of fish, including a small reef shark, but the coral near the surface was largely dead even though at deeper depths we saw some massive coral formations.
Seabourn Pursuit continued to hold position throughout the afternoon while everyone who wanted to snorkel had a chance and at 1530 we headed around the east side of the atoll and set a course west for Pohnpei, some 200 NM away, our next stop and the location of Nan Madol, a World Heritage Site threatened by climate change.
The rain squalls held off so we experienced the Seabourn Signature “Caviar in the Pool” event at 1700, followed by a expedition recap at 1800.
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