Sept. 13 – Funchal, Portugal

By on September 15, 2024 in The Pearl

“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them”. – Unknown

Today was our first full day in Madeira. Actually it was our first day since we didn’t land until 4:30 this morning. By the time we got in bed it was after six. After a few hours of sleep we started the day by having coffee and a pastry at a place located across the street from our apartment. This afternoon we wandered around town a bit and then we had to go back to the airport to pick up our rental car. Unfortunately they were closed when we arrived. 

The view from our apartment. Looking towards the water a little restaurant in the park.

Funchal is the capital city, laid out like an amphitheater around the bay. It’s a magnificent city, with cobbled streets, splendid parks and gardens, little squares with restaurants, Portuguese colonial architecture and a cable car for a bird’s eye view of the city. The city began in 1424 when the Zarco family settled there. Its strategic location between Europe, Africa and South America has led to its importance as a port of call for the European trade routes. We’re staying in The Old Town, known as Zona Velha. It’s a lively place and we plan to explore as much of it as we can while we’re here. 
The harbor looking towards town.

The Mercado dos Lavradores, literally translated as “farmers market”, it’s a fruit, vegetable, flower and fish market in old town that opened in 1940. The building houses 3 floors of stalls with exotic fruits, vegetables, plants of all kinds and lots of fish and shellfish. The stalls are decorated in vibrant colors and the salesmen dressed in typical costumes.  

Rua de Santa Maria is one of oldest and most colorful streets in Old Town. The narrow cobbled street dates back to 1430 as a thoroughfare up to the church of Santa Maria Maior. It’s just wide enough for pedestrians and is lined with restaurants, cafes and an art gallery or two. In 2014 the “Art of Open Doors” project turned this old shabby area of Funchal into a colorful outdoor art gallery with more than 200 works of art.

Part of Rue de Santa Maria.

Just a few of the doors we saw. We went back to this little street the next night for dinner.

Sept. 13 – Funchal, Portugal

By on September 15, 2024 in The Pearl

“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them”. – Unknown

Today was our first full day in Madeira. Actually it was our first day since we didn’t land until 4:30 this morning. By the time we got in bed it was after six. After a few hours of sleep we started the day by having coffee and a pastry at a place located across the street from our apartment. This afternoon we wandered around town a bit and then we had to go back to the airport to pick up our rental car. Unfortunately they were closed when we arrived. 

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Sept. 12 – Travel Day

By on September 14, 2024 in The Pearl
“We travel because we need to, because distance and difference are the secret tonic to creativity.” -Anonymous

We began our vacation a day early by flying into JFK from Ithaca yesterday. The JFK Airport is located in Queens on Long Island…so this was a less stressful way to begin our adventure. We stayed at the TWA Hotel located in the old TWA terminal, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Eero Saarinen’s 1962 TWA Flight Center serves as the lobby of the TWA Hotel. You feel as if you’ve been transported back to the 1960 when you enter this hotel. It was a fun place to stay and everything went very smoothly on Wednesday. 

Ithaca International Airport

The TWA Hotel

Inside the Connie Lounge.

Dinner at the Paris Café.

Adventure only occurs when things don’t go as planned. Maybe fate led us to accept the upgrade our airline made available to us to Madeira. It was a bonus because our flight was delayed over five hours and we were able to enjoy the Air France lounge. We actually left the hotel as soon as we were up and ready this morning so we could hang out and enjoy their buffet. Little did we know we would spend most of the day hanging out there.  
We were supposed to leave at 11:50. We finally took off about 5:30. The plane had mechanical issues and they had to get another plane for our flight. Thank goodness for our upgrade. The upgrade also made our six hour flight extremely comfortable…meals and drinks included.
Our meals
My space
Madeira is a small island and has very limited flat space. For that reason when they enlarged the runway at the Madeira Airport they had to build it on a bridge extending into the sea. The bridge measures 590′ wide and 3/4 of a mile long. The total runaway is 1.72 miles…doesn’t seem like it leaves a lot of room for error. We came in at night, which might have been a good thing. I’m not sure I’d want to see this landing.

Finally in Madeira.
We’re spending our first five nights in Old Town (Zona Velha) in Funchal. We have a nice little apartment close to the water and not too far from the Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmers Market). We should be able to do a lot of exploring of Funchal and the southern coast from here.

Sept. 12 – Travel Day

By on September 14, 2024 in The Pearl
“We travel because we need to, because distance and difference are the secret tonic to creativity.” -Anonymous

We began our vacation a day early by flying into JFK from Ithaca yesterday. The JFK Airport is located in Queens on Long Island…so this was a less stressful way to begin our adventure. We stayed at the TWA Hotel located in the old TWA terminal, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Eero Saarinen’s 1962 TWA Flight Center serves as the lobby of the TWA Hotel. You feel as if you’ve been transported back to the 1960 when you enter this hotel. It was a fun place to stay and everything went very smoothly on Wednesday. 

Ithaca International Airport

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Guam to Chile – Blog Post 5

By on September 13, 2024 in Spirit

Blog Post 5 – Pohnpei and Nan Madol

September 13, 2024

Before it was fully light, Seabourn Pursuit took up position outside the barrier reef near the harbor entrance for Pohnpei and the town of Kolonia.  Pohnpei is about 21 KM in diameter, surrounded by a fringing barrier reef.  Pohnpei is also the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia and the island has a population of about 30,000.  There were a number of freighters anchored inside the barrier reef, but the lagoon has many shallow spots and is not really suitable for a ship the size of Seabourn Pursuit.

The trip into the municipal wharf was about 15 minutes-3 miles in the zodiacs.

Patrick had arranged an independent tour to meet Yvonne and David Hawkins.  David is one of the sons of Tom and Joyce Hawkins, long time friends in Anacortes.  I was given a great tour of the local area before returning to the wharf for the trip to Nan Madol.

Pohnpei

Japanese Tanks from the war

The preamble to the FSM Constitution

Capital Entrance to FSM


Nan Madol is a mysterious set of stone structures located at the southwest corner of Pohnpei, 93 artificial islets in the lagoon are linked by stone causeways.  Archeologists believe the structures were constructed in the 1200’s by the Sandeleur dynasty and were occupied up to about 1628. 

The name Nan Madol means “within the intervals” and is a reference to the canals that crisscross the ruins. The original name was Soun Nan-leng, “Reef of Heaven,” according to Gene Ashby in his book Pohnpei, An Island Argosy.

The site measures about 1.5 by 0.5 KM.  Not much is really known about the dynasty or the civilization that occupied Nan Madol.  Nan Madol is sometimes referred to as “the Venice of the Pacific” or even as “Atlantis”. 

In the four hundred years since Nan Madol was abandoned, the jungle is slowly taking over and hence it is listed as a “Threatened World Heritage Site.

Nan Madol is at the opposite end of Pohnpei from the capital, Kolonia, a drive of 26 miles or 1 ½ hours on narrow, rutted, winding roads.  Our drive was in intense rain showers.

Arriving at the trailhead in heavy rain, we started down the trail, ducking under a tree that had fallen earlier in the day.  The trail is made of both chunks of coral and rocks, not level at all.  There were a series of crude bridges across flooded areas in the mangrove swamps.  The final approach to the ruins included wading through knee deep water on a sandy bottom.


Window construction

Mangrove Swamps surround the ruins

Unique and stable construction

Looking across the final channel to the main ruins

Blocks scattered everywhere


One of the many bridges on the trail


The basalt stones are stacked like logs in layers alternating directions, creating a very stable structure without any mortar.  In this climate, no mortar was needed.  The shape of the basalt logs is not round, but mostly 4, 5, or 6 sided.  Only the main temple has been excavated, but represents just a fraction of the entire complex.

Returning back to the trailhead, two more trees had fallen across the trail, so we had to scramble through the trunks and branches blocking our path.  Patrick’s van took up the last position as security for the bus ahead, which had engine problems.  Sure enough, some 25 KM from the wharf the bus finally stalled again, so we were sent ahead to get a replacement bus.  The local fire medics that had accompanied us on the trail were there also and stayed with the bus. Pohnpei is very rugged, with hills to 2500 feet, so the portable radios were useless until within a mile or so of the wharf.   The height of the hills also attracts intense rain, with Pohnpei getting some 7600 mm of rain per year, one of the wettest places on Earth.

A replacement bus was ordered when we got into cell phone range (Pohnpei has a proprietary cell phone system and USA phones do not work), so everyone arrived safely back in the dark to the wharf only an hour or so late.  The crew had beverages and appetizers waiting at the gangway for all of us who were delayed.

Patrick had just time for a quick shower before meeting Miriam and Julie for dinner.


Guam to Chile – Blog Post 5

By on September 13, 2024 in Spirit

Blog Post 5 – Pohnpei and Nan Madol

September 13, 2024

Before it was fully light, Seabourn Pursuit took up position outside the barrier reef near the harbor entrance for Pohnpei and the town of Kolonia.  Pohnpei is about 21 KM in diameter, surrounded by a fringing barrier reef.  Pohnpei is also the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia and the island has a population of about 30,000.  There were a number of freighters anchored inside the barrier reef, but the lagoon has many shallow spots and is not really suitable for a ship the size of Seabourn Pursuit.

The trip into the municipal wharf was about 15 minutes-3 miles in the zodiacs.

Patrick had arranged an independent tour to meet Yvonne and David Hawkins.  David is one of the sons of Tom and Joyce Hawkins, long time friends in Anacortes.  I was given a great tour of the local area before returning to the wharf for the trip to Nan Madol.

Pohnpei

Japanese Tanks from the war

The preamble to the FSM Constitution

Capital Entrance to FSM


Nan Madol is a mysterious set of stone structures located at the southwest corner of Pohnpei, 93 artificial islets in the lagoon are linked by stone causeways.  Archeologists believe the structures were constructed in the 1200’s by the Sandeleur dynasty and were occupied up to about 1628. 

The name Nan Madol means “within the intervals” and is a reference to the canals that crisscross the ruins. The original name was Soun Nan-leng, “Reef of Heaven,” according to Gene Ashby in his book Pohnpei, An Island Argosy.

The site measures about 1.5 by 0.5 KM.  Not much is really known about the dynasty or the civilization that occupied Nan Madol.  Nan Madol is sometimes referred to as “the Venice of the Pacific” or even as “Atlantis”. 

In the four hundred years since Nan Madol was abandoned, the jungle is slowly taking over and hence it is listed as a “Threatened World Heritage Site.

Nan Madol is at the opposite end of Pohnpei from the capital, Kolonia, a drive of 26 miles or 1 ½ hours on narrow, rutted, winding roads.  Our drive was in intense rain showers.

Arriving at the trailhead in heavy rain, we started down the trail, ducking under a tree that had fallen earlier in the day.  The trail is made of both chunks of coral and rocks, not level at all.  There were a series of crude bridges across flooded areas in the mangrove swamps.  The final approach to the ruins included wading through knee deep water on a sandy bottom.




Window construction

Mangrove Swamps surround the ruins

Unique and stable construction

Looking across the final channel to the main ruins

Blocks scattered everywhere


One of the many bridges on the trail


The basalt stones are stacked like logs in layers alternating directions, creating a very stable structure without any mortar.  In this climate, no mortar was needed.  The shape of the basalt logs is not round, but mostly 4, 5, or 6 sided.  Only the main temple has been excavated, but represents just a fraction of the entire complex.

Returning back to the trailhead, two more trees had fallen across the trail, so we had to scramble through the trunks and branches blocking our path.  Patrick’s van took up the last position as security for the bus ahead, which had engine problems.  Sure enough, some 25 KM from the wharf the bus finally stalled again, so we were sent ahead to get a replacement bus.  The local fire medics that had accompanied us on the trail were there also and stayed with the bus. Pohnpei is very rugged, with hills to 2500 feet, so the portable radios were useless until within a mile or so of the wharf.   The height of the hills also attracts intense rain, with Pohnpei getting some 7600 mm of rain per year, one of the wettest places on Earth.

A replacement bus was ordered when we got into cell phone range (Pohnpei has a proprietary cell phone system and USA phones do not work), so everyone arrived safely back in the dark to the wharf only an hour or so late.  The crew had beverages and appetizers waiting at the gangway for all of us who were delayed.

Patrick had just time for a quick shower before meeting Miriam and Julie for dinner.


Guam to Chile – Blog Post 4

By on September 12, 2024 in Spirit

September 12, 2024 – Oroluk Lagoon

Overnight the ship travelled to Oroluk Lagoon.  There were still some residual effects of the low pressure zone the ship passed through on the voyage from Guam.  The ship motions were not as extreme, but still there were shudders as particularly large swells brought the bulbous bow out of the water.  The ship’s clocks will also be set forward one hour tonight as we continue eastward towards our destination, so we lose an hour of sleep. 


Oroluk Lagoon


Oroluk Lagoon is a marine sanctuary and part of Pohnpei State in the Federated States of Micronesia.  The lagoon is a nesting site for Green Turtles and a breeding colony for Black Noddies and other seabirds.  There is only one island left on the atoll, which measures 12 by 20 miles.  The rest have been washed away by tropical cyclones over the years.  There are bananas and Taro plantations on the island, with just a few semi-permanent residents from the Kapinga district of Pohnpei, who are supplied twice a year by ship.  The atoll was “discovered” by Spanish explorers in 1565, but was probably known to the Micronesian people in the area.

Tomorrow the captain will position the ship off the northwest corner of the fringing barrier reef.  The ship will not enter the lagoon itself, nor will anyone go ashore.  Our activities will consist of submersible dives alongside a 800 foot deep wall and snorkeling in a different area, also alongside a wall where the fringing reef begins.  This will be a more strenuous snorkel experience, only for strong swimmers, due to both water depth and tidal currents in and out of the lagoon through a few passes.  Patrick, Miriam and Julie decided to let others partake of this experience.

The ship plans to arrive at 0800 and depart at 1630.  Patrick is currently scheduled for Dive #1 at 0900.  This dive will be a new dive for Seabourn Pursuit, going down the wall to a depth of about 200 meters, or 660 feet.  It should be dark at that depth, so the submersible will be using lights to illuminate the wall and allow passengers to see the variety and different life forms as the submersible moves down the wall and loses the surface light.

For those guests not going on the submersibles or snorkeling there will a variety of lectures and activities, very similar to a day at sea.

OK, what really happened.

The weather cooperated as we approached Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the atoll, the only island remaining on the atoll.  Seabourn Pursuit arrived about 0800 and positioned in a small lee about 1500 feet from the fringing reef and held position with dynamic positioning.  

Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the lagoon


The submersibles and zodiacs were launched and promptly at 0900 operations commenced. Patrick was fortunate to be on the first dive, along with the ship videographer.  The plan was to reach 200 meters in depth and then approach the wall of the fringing reef.  At 50 meters from the wall and 200 meters depth the visibility was so good that we could see the wall clearly without lights.  There was not much life here, but at 150 meters depth we saw oceanic sharks.  Slowly ascending to the surface the life increased until at 50 meters there was an abundance of sea life and coral.

50 meters from the wall at 200 meters depth



Just before lunch Patrick headed out for a short snorkeling session on the reef wall, despite originally planning to avoid.  There were a lot of different types of fish, including a small reef shark, but the coral near the surface was largely dead even though at deeper depths we saw some massive coral formations.

Seabourn Pursuit continued to hold position throughout the afternoon while everyone who wanted to snorkel had a chance and at 1530 we headed around the east side of the atoll and set a course west for Pohnpei, some 200 NM away, our next stop and the location of Nan Madol, a World Heritage Site threatened by climate change.

The rain squalls held off so we experienced the Seabourn Signature “Caviar in the Pool” event at 1700, followed by a expedition recap at 1800.

 

 

 


Guam to Chile – Blog Post 4

By on September 12, 2024 in Spirit

September 12, 2024 – Oroluk Lagoon

Overnight the ship travelled to Oroluk Lagoon.  There were still some residual effects of the low pressure zone the ship passed through on the voyage from Guam.  The ship motions were not as extreme, but still there were shudders as particularly large swells brought the bulbous bow out of the water.  The ship’s clocks will also be set forward one hour tonight as we continue eastward towards our destination, so we lose an hour of sleep. 


Oroluk Lagoon


Oroluk Lagoon is a marine sanctuary and part of Pohnpei State in the Federated States of Micronesia.  The lagoon is a nesting site for Green Turtles and a breeding colony for Black Noddies and other seabirds.  There is only one island left on the atoll, which measures 12 by 20 miles.  The rest have been washed away by tropical cyclones over the years.  There are bananas and Taro plantations on the island, with just a few semi-permanent residents from the Kapinga district of Pohnpei, who are supplied twice a year by ship.  The atoll was “discovered” by Spanish explorers in 1565, but was probably known to the Micronesian people in the area.

Tomorrow the captain will position the ship off the northwest corner of the fringing barrier reef.  The ship will not enter the lagoon itself, nor will anyone go ashore.  Our activities will consist of submersible dives alongside a 800 foot deep wall and snorkeling in a different area, also alongside a wall where the fringing reef begins.  This will be a more strenuous snorkel experience, only for strong swimmers, due to both water depth and tidal currents in and out of the lagoon through a few passes.  Patrick, Miriam and Julie decided to let others partake of this experience.

The ship plans to arrive at 0800 and depart at 1630.  Patrick is currently scheduled for Dive #1 at 0900.  This dive will be a new dive for Seabourn Pursuit, going down the wall to a depth of about 200 meters, or 660 feet.  It should be dark at that depth, so the submersible will be using lights to illuminate the wall and allow passengers to see the variety and different life forms as the submersible moves down the wall and loses the surface light.

For those guests not going on the submersibles or snorkeling there will a variety of lectures and activities, very similar to a day at sea.

OK, what really happened.

The weather cooperated as we approached Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the atoll, the only island remaining on the atoll.  Seabourn Pursuit arrived about 0800 and positioned in a small lee about 1500 feet from the fringing reef and held position with dynamic positioning.  

Oroluk Island at the NE corner of the lagoon


The submersibles and zodiacs were launched and promptly at 0900 operations commenced. Patrick was fortunate to be on the first dive, along with the ship videographer.  The plan was to reach 200 meters in depth and then approach the wall of the fringing reef.  At 50 meters from the wall and 200 meters depth the visibility was so good that we could see the wall clearly without lights.  There was not much life here, but at 150 meters depth we saw oceanic sharks.  Slowly ascending to the surface the life increased until at 50 meters there was an abundance of sea life and coral.

50 meters from the wall at 200 meters depth



Just before lunch Patrick headed out for a short snorkeling session on the reef wall, despite originally planning to avoid.  There were a lot of different types of fish, including a small reef shark, but the coral near the surface was largely dead even though at deeper depths we saw some massive coral formations.

Seabourn Pursuit continued to hold position throughout the afternoon while everyone who wanted to snorkel had a chance and at 1530 we headed around the east side of the atoll and set a course west for Pohnpei, some 200 NM away, our next stop and the location of Nan Madol, a World Heritage Site threatened by climate change.

The rain squalls held off so we experienced the Seabourn Signature “Caviar in the Pool” event at 1700, followed by a expedition recap at 1800.

 

 

 


Madeira Adventure

By on September 11, 2024 in The Pearl
“Happiness is planning a trip to somewhere new with someone you love.” –Unknown
It seems like our new adventures get further and further apart. I think we’ve gotten a bit lazy about planning new trips. We enjoy where we are in New York and Pennsylvania so much that it’s hard to actually make plans and experience new places…but here we go. To celebrate Stan’s upcoming big birthday we’re going to Madeira to experience new food, new culture and new sights. We’re excited to explore this amazing little island in the Atlantic Ocean. 

Madeira sits off the southwest coast of Portugal. Although Madeira is a Portuguese archipelago, it’s actually closer to Africa than Europe. Sitting 434 miles west of Morocco. The Madeira archipelago was discovered in 1419 and settled in 1420, when Portuguese sailors were blown off course by a storm and landed on an island they named Porto Santo (holy harbor). The larger island of Madeira, which means wood, was settled a bit later. 

Madeira’s volcanic origins and subtropical climate draw visitors to its unique landscapes, from the Laurisilva forests, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to the network of levadas (irrigation channels) that provide stunning walking paths. The islands offer a blend of natural beauty, adventure and tranquility, making it a paradise for nature lovers, hikers and those seeking a serene getaway. We plan to fill our next ten days with all kinds of wonderful new sights and adventures.

Here are just a few of the sights we hope to see while we are in Madeira.
We have a lot of things on our wish list to see and do. We know we won’t have time to do them all. Madeira is only 35 miles long by 14 miles wide, so we should be able to see a lot. We plan to do a little hiking, a little exploring and a lot of relaxing. See our trip map at this link.
A short video showing just how beautiful Madeira is.

Madeira Adventure

By on September 11, 2024 in The Pearl
“Happiness is planning a trip to somewhere new with someone you love.” –Unknown
It seems like our new adventures get further and further apart. I think we’ve gotten a bit lazy about planning new trips. We enjoy where we are in New York and Pennsylvania so much that it’s hard to actually make plans and experience new places…but here we go. To celebrate Stan’s upcoming big birthday we’re going to Madeira to experience new food, new culture and new sights. We’re excited to explore this amazing little island in the Atlantic Ocean. 

CONTINUE READING HERE…»