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| Arriving in Punta Arenas – L’Boreal is broken down alongside dock |
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| Marta Island Stellar Sea Lions |
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| Local goods in Punta Arenas |
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| Statues to Magellan |
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| Typical Church |
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| Miriam observing the sights |
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| Arriving in Punta Arenas – L’Boreal is broken down alongside dock |
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| Marta Island Stellar Sea Lions |
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| Local goods in Punta Arenas |
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| Statues to Magellan |
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| Typical Church |
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| Miriam observing the sights |
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| Enjoying the whirlpool leaving Chiloe |
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| The seas got a little rough |
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| Entering the first of the Chilean Fjords |
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| Family Style Christmas Dinner |
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| The Christmas Penguin after the show |
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| Some gifts from the ship |
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| El Brujo Glacier |
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| The bow deck is open for viewing |
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| Deck 11 is also a good place for photos |
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| This glacier looked large until we got to Antarctica |
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| Shipwreck in the fjord |
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| First of many seabirds |
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| Santa Arriving by Zodiac |
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| Chilean Version of Mt. Rainier |
| Our Sloan Classmate Juan Castro |
| The Hills of Valparaiso |
| Sunset our first night at sea |
| Cruising in the rain on the Emerald Lake |
| Part of the Petrohue River |
| Artisan Market at Puerto Varas |
| Local boats – Puerto Varas |
| Ibis watching us at lunch through the window in the rain |
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| Same Area as Darwin explored |
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| Looking across the lake |
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| The boardwalk Trail, some was just mud |
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| The size of the vegetation was incredible |
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| One of the 16 Unesco Churches in Castro |
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| Pole houses along the water like in Ketchikan |
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| Cruising out of Castro to the open sea |
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| There are massive aquaculture operations all over |
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| Some of the Christmas Decorations |
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| The main spiral staircase all decorated |
Blog Post 2 – Bellevue to Santiago, Chile
December 17
Leaving Bellevue at 1445, we joined the crowded traffic on I-405 headed north early during the holiday season. Patrick’s sister, Julie went with us to bring back our car from Vancouver airport. With three of us in the car, the new express lanes (free with three) sped up the travel significantly and we arrived at the border in only 2 hours and 30 minutes, even with a stop for coffee in Burlington. Clearing into Canada was a breeze, with virtually no lines at the border. The coffee stop turned out to be a bad choice since we soon ran into a massive traffic jam of merging traffic trying to go northbound through the Massey tunnel in rainy weather under the Fraser River. Not being aware of the routine, we never seemed to be in the correct lane as the traffic all pushed forward, jockeying for position and an advantage. We spent more than an hour going only 2 miles. Even so, we arrived at the Fairmont hotel at the airport shortly after 1830. Checking into very nice rooms and getting rid of the coffee, we then gathered in the Global Lounge for a very well cooked and presented dinner. We indulged in appetizers like duck fat cooked French Fries and crab cakes with a ginger/lime aioli. Entrees included Sable Fish in a miso/sake broth, grilled prawns on a cauliflower risotto, and grilled organic pork chops. We capped off the evening with Irish Coffee’s before retiring to get ready for the long flight the next day.
December 18
We all met for a light breakfast before Julie headed back to Bellevue. Checking out of the hotel about 1000 we walked the short distance to the American Airlines check in area, checked our luggage to Santiago and then cleared security and US Customs, using our Nexus passes to speed up the process. After a wait, we boarded the Boeing 737-800 aircraft and departed close to on-time. Taking off to the east, we had a little turbulence as we climbed through the overcast into clear skies and our cruising altitude of 35,000 feet. The flight time to Dallas is only 3 ½ hours, so the crew predicts an on-time arrival.
As we flew east and south we saw snow blanketing the landscape and a beautiful sunset to the southwest before the twinkle of lights around the snow covered fields became visible.
Landing in Dallas we made our way the American Airlines Admiral’s Club and were pleasantly surprised to find out we qualified for pre-flight dining in the lounge. The dining was simple, but we were comfortable. We began to feel nervous about our seat assignments and headed to the gate where we were told we were being downgraded with no compensation to economy. We discovered that the airline believed we were on award tickets, not full fare, and after showing our receipt were moved back into business class. We also made some panicked calls to Seabourn, but it was too late for them to intervene. However, we sweated bullets until the door was closed, while watching the drama’s unfolding around us with people leaving the aircraft and the gate agent trying to do the best thing for everyone, after he was handed the overbooking problem.
Once we were airborne, the Boeing 787-8 began to reveal it’s advantages. And also some unexpected features. The screens were too far away for Miriam to reach and the beds do not allow the footrest to come up independent of a recline, so some of the comfort features were lost on us. We were still better off than being back in economy class.
We are now over the Gulf of Mexico approaching the Yucatan Peninsula and are just finishing our main course which we had pre-ordered. Life is once again good!
December 19, 2015
We did not make up any time overnight and landed in Santiago one hour late. To add insult to injury, there were no gates available so we sat on the tarmac for another 30 minutes before disembarking and joining the throngs clearing immigration. We fully expected our luggage to already be out, but when we were met by the Seabourn representative we could not find our bags among the priority bags already unloaded. After another 20 minutes our bags finally arrived and we headed out through Customs where we found we could not import some packaged nuts. However, when the agent looked at them, they let them go.
The drive into the hotel was fine, traffic was light on a Saturday and our room was ready. After a quick shower we called Juan Castro, one of Patrick’s Sloan classmates and we then went to his house for lunch. We met his wife, two daughters and youngest son. It had been 29 years since we had seen each other and we spent several hours catching up over a delicious lunch that they had prepared of fresh Southern King Crab, prawns, salads and fresh fruit.
Returning to the hotel,we took a siesta until after 1900. We then went with Juan to the Manquehue Club, an athletic and social facility. After a light dinner we headed to the Central Park with Juan and caught the last hour of the annual free Christmas concert. There were thousands of people of all ages spread on on the grass or in chairs. The concert ended about 2200 and we returned to the hotel for a decent rest before boarding the ship tomorrow afternoon.
December 20 – Embarkation Day
We began with a delicious breakfast buffet in the hotel’s open air restaurant. After a walk around the neighborhood we took our luggage down to the lobby and prepared for the drive to Valparaiso.

December 16, 2015Since completing our 3000 nautical mile voyage to SE Alaska our first order of business was to have Spirit hauled out and annual maintenance performed, including fresh bottom paint, replacing the Amartech shaft seal, tuning the propell…
Recently we have been cruising with a great buddy boat and crew. The owner is new to long range cruising and wanted to join us on the rally to Indonesia to learn the cruising ways. From time to time he has needed help and things i have on Furthur. This inspired me to document the articles i have accumulated that i believe are essential to long range power cruising. Some are big items that came with boat, many are just little things that make a big difference.
The lovely Donna modeling the 2 micron filters used in the fuel polishing system
On the equipment list that is “do not leave home without” list; the most important for cruising 3rd world countries is the ESI Fuel Polishing system, standard equipment on Selene’s. Fuel is a huge issue as my buddy found out. He had a major fuel problem that resulted in me towing him 140 miles and a gigantic repair bill. I run new fuel through the system at least three times with a 2 micron Racor filter before it ever leaves the tank. Another issue with fueling is just getting it aboard. In places, most we travel, there are no fuel docks and fuel is delivered via small boat and barrel or gerry can. A high volume electric fuel pump is needed for the transfer with plenty of hose. I can empty a 200 liter barrel in a matter of minutes, good when bouncing off a cement pier.
Second on the list of larger items is my Forespar Rolex stationary stabilizer system, we loving call “the Fish”. This takes most of the roll out of bumpy anchorages and was used often on this last voyage.
the Rolex system keeps us sleeping at night
Speaking of anchoring, i carry an over sized 55kg Bruce type anchor, really big! I also carry an unusually large amount of chain, 200 meters (600 ft). i have cruised with two boats that carry half that amount and it has genuinely restricted where they can anchor. Just the other day i dropped the hook in 145ft of water to access a fantastic dive area. i also carry an array of spare anchors and rode, all unused in the last six years but essential. Due to upsizing my windlass to accommodate the heavy gear, i actually carry a spare windlass. i will also have a spare motor for the larger one delivered soon, the windlass working is a mandatory part of cruising.
We often grab a mooring in many places we visit. In the past we used the traditional boat hook to grab the tail of the mooring, this was always a challenge and caused great angst with the crew, not to mention several lost boat hooks. I watched the livaboard dive boats with even taller bows than Furthur secure moorings and saw they used a three pronged hook and line with great ease. We now have such a hook and it is far easier to use.
our “happy hooker, mooring hook
Marinas are few and far between, we often go months without docking, when we do they are frequently rolly and crude. Sometimes we tie to a non floating wharf or larger steel ship. A good selection of large fenders and long dock lines is needed in such cases, big ones!
Water and air, cannot live without them! We have a great FCI water maker, 200 liters an hour, i had a smaller unit that has failed and will be replaced soon. i like having two water makers, one high volume and one smaller that can run on the inverter while underway. No water, no happy crew! We also have an inline charcoal filter for the dock hose for the times we are at a marina. We are dive fanatics, so my Bauer dive compressor gets a work out. My cruising mates without compressors often miss the best diving and are reliant on finding dive shops for tank fills. The compressor on Furthur is electric so requires a generator, many carry gas driven compressors, noisy and require a separate fuel supply and extreme care to access clean air in the intake. We carry eight tanks.
The dinghy is the king, without it the trip ends, period. i carry a small spare roll up inflatable with small outboard as well as my larger one. My good friend and cruising guru, John Neal, told me at the beginning of the trip, “lift it or lose it” and after another friend got their dinghy stolen in Tahiti, i have always put the dinghy up at night, no exceptions! I opted for the mast/boom davit arrangement instead of the powerful hydraulic crane Selene offered. I can completely replace the moving parts of my system with parts carried aboard.
the dinghy hook saves the coral
As we dive off the dinghy we have a small anchor, a local style which is a crude hook made of rebar. i used to carry a more traditional anchor with chain lead but found that did damage to the precious coral we were diving to see, the hook does little damage and is more secure.
To the smaller stuff; the recent towing incident reminded me why i carry a long, strong tow line, one that has been neatly coiled and unused until really needed, really needed. I also carry a large spool of small line for stern tying in small anchorages, this gets used more often, fortunately.
the shore tie long line and reel
A cruising boat requires an inordinate variety of petroleum pridust to keep going and a replacement supply for each is needed: dive compressor oil, water maker oil, steering ram fluid, engine and gen oil (they used the same grade), transmission oil, outboard 2 cycle oil, hydraulic oil, and even the essential massage oil supplies are stored on Furthur. Along with the petroleum products comes an array of filters; water maker, ESI system, engine, gen factory filters and Racors for each, hydraulic filter, water filters, the list goes on. i can now repack my dive compressor filters so that is a big savings. Between needed oils and filters my inventory reaches into the thousand dollar range not to mention the space to store it all but it is all needed when it is needed.
Along with this inventory comes an endless supply of spare parts too long to list. My motto is if it broke once it will again so any time i replace a part, i buy two, this goes for the large array of pumps i carry. On the essential list are plenty of impellors for all things that use them, i also discovered the wonders of silicone grease to install impellors and lengthen their life.
Add to the list an extensive supply of nuts/bolts, fuses, light bulbs, O rings, anything you can think of that might break. It is often the small things that stop a happy cruise. i now carry complete rebuild kits for all pumps and hydraulic rams. There is a great rule of engineering, if it moves and is not supposed to use duct tape or wire ties. If it supposed to move and does not use WD40. So carry plenty of each. i also like the silicon spray WD puts out. Along with that carry ratcheting cargo straps and bungee cords to secure things on the deck. We carry a vast selection of adhesives; from super glue to dinghy repair glue to epoxy to silicon and the all important 5200.
Clearing in and out of foreign countries can be daunting at first but soon seen as just part of the deal. I find it handy to have a printer/scanner onboard so i can make the dozens of copies of documents required by the various agencies. This will expedite clearing in and out and gives you the appearance of knowing what you are doing when you can produce anything they ask for. This can also save you the angst of handing your passport and boat docs to a stranger, often known for corruption, to get copies made at the last minute.
Just for Americans: If your boat is from the West, it is probably 110v 60 htz and will not run appliances made in the East, or anywhere else. Carry spare power tools, fans and appliances that run on 110v only along with spare extension cords.
Some just for fun: One of the things my cruising mates marvel at and desire is my balloon tying kit. i love to sit in a small village and make balloon animals, nothing will get you into the heart of a small village like balloon animals. We also carry a supply of small toys for kids.
The trick is to distinguish between the things you need, might really need and never need. There are items i will never use but keep, safety items like the life raft. there are never used items i have found multiple uses for; the tow line doubles as a storm mooring line and i have made our own moorings with it at dive sites. Then there are the piles of crap one collects and never uses or never will. The trick is to determine what to throw and what to use, i go through this process yearly.
So here is my list, use it as you will. i am sure there are things i forgot and things i am missing and will add another time. Cruising happily depends on three things: prepare the boat as thoroughly as you can, take spares for the predictable and unpredictable, know your systems and have a plan to temporarily fix or do without. Follow these things and the world is yours!

We arrived in Boalemo, the midpoint of the rally to find four other boats, the only ones of the fifteen starters who made is this far. The rest of the fleet took a different route to Raja Amput. We seemed to just miss the big festival in Boalemo, but the rally still had a great reception. Quite a large entourage of people from the Department of Tourism were there with the sole purpose of taking care of us and boy did they. We enjoyed nice albeit often rolly moorage. There were buoys to tie to and the dinghy dock was great. We hit the beach and were greeted like royalty, no one matches the unabashed open friendly spirit of the Indonesians, it is pure, unafraid and from the heart. i had a mechanical problem, the starboard stabilizer ram broke a seal and i needed help. the group there all tried to help and brought a good mechanic. They put in a four day effort to find the seals with several trips to a distant Manado. This was again a result of my poor planning. the stabs have over 7000 hours and the port ram broke a seal a while ago, i should have figured if one is shot the other one is short lived,, another lesson learned. While we waited we were royally entertained with side trips for the girls and a dive trip for me along with many meals. Like other parts of rural Indo, the people are amazingly friendly and they love to have their picture taken with us, “Picture with you Mr.?” is a common call. Makes me feel like a rock star, hahaha

King Neptune pays a visit
a make shift repair and limited results we head south on a cloudy equatorial morning. We have about fifty miles to go for the Togian Islands and the equator lies right in our path. This is my seventh time across that mystical line in the middle of the earth. King Neptune always makes a visit at this time initiating all the pollywogs into full fledged Shellbacks. This is when one should celebrate the turtle, the symbol of the veteran Shellback and we did by getting all the girls stuffed terrapins. I prepared certificates for each noting this worthy equation.

i asked Chloe just how many of her college friends have crossed the equator on a boat, not many she guessed. This is one of those occasions when we must reflect on the very small percentage of people we know live such a life. As we travel in groups of likeminded and experienced folks, we sometimes loose awareness of how small a group we are. So the toilet flushed the other way now and we are off for great diving adventures.

official certificates and new Shellbacks on Furthur
Six years ago a very scared, excited and nervous chap left the home turf he had known and loved for over fifty years and set out for the greatest adventure of his life, that was me.
Now after six years of seeing, doing and experiencing the wonders of half the world, how am i doing? i ask myself this question each year at this time.

surrounded by cruising friends on my birthday at Kota Kinabalu
Health wise i am fantastic, no worries at all. Could drop a pound or two and actually have recently. i stay fairly fit with the boat work, diving, walking and running when in a home port. This can be a challenge when i have such great cooks aboard! Ye ol back is holding up albeit with some complaints and i seem to be getting a bit stiffer, to be expected. So physically i am fit as a fiddle.. a real old fiddle that has been dropped and scratched many times haha
Age may be taking a slight toll on my memory, but i can still sit down and sing fifty songs with all the lyrics.. saw a great post the other day, showed a pic of Jerry Garcia; caption read “i can remember every song this man sang but not why i am in the kitchen” that may be very telling haha. I continue to love playing music, especially joining local bands as i did in Samal every Friday night. I also ran an open mic at the marina on Wednesday nights which brought out some of the cruisers.

joining the Good Friday procession
Spiritually i keep growing, albeit in spurts. Recent trips to small villages, dancing with bright brown eyed children, seeing the wonders of the world above and below the water feed that growth. Recently a series of events put me in a twitter, short fused and abrasive. i quickly did an inventory and shamefully realized how trivial the list of problems were and how extraordinary my list of blessings is. i actually read one of my own blog posts on my blessings and thought, gee i ought to listen to this guy, hahaha
So this past year is much like the last few, great adventures, returning to familiar loved places and people. But there is big news!! i am in love! For the past six months i have had the sublime joy of the love of a great woman. Donna has been on the boat for half this last year now and loving the boat and even more amazing, me! i have written much on the wonders of Asian women, their ability to meld with older western men and make spectacular couples, and now i am one of those guys.
So after six years of amazing adventures i am healthy, happy, playing music, diving, much closer to God and in love, what more can a man ask??
This marks six years of rotating crew on Furthur, most from the Godsend; findacrew.net. I have had crew from twenty eight countries onboard and what a joy it has been. This has been the most unexpected and rewarding component of my adventure. I left Seattle with friends and soon found that people who could drop everything and jaunt off across the globe a limited pool. Next i found boat hitchhikers and had some great and not so great luck but it was all based on luck not science. It was at the end of my first year that i found findacrew.net and have used them almost exclusively ever since.

crew from around the world and most of the USA, Texas and California here
After ever age, gender and combination of people, i found that my formula for picking works for me. Females in the 20ish to 40ish years from mixed countries with little or no experience seem to have the flexibility, curiosity, eagerness to learn, ability to bond fast with other crew and the lack of challenges that make great crew and company. Of course there have been glaring exceptions, some of the best crew do not fit in the formula but most do. Other combinations work for other boats so my formula is just for me. We are now seeing past crew come back for second and third stents on the boat.
My success has been largely in part to a in-depth seven page letter each potential crew receives. This letter has evolved over the years and grown in length. It covers daily life, what to expect, what is expected and what is not tolerated. Recent additions have been aimed at sorting out possible challenges inexperienced crew might find; the unpredictability of cruising, the lack of independence and the lack of private space can be issues that are not thought of by the starry eyed back packer.
One thing i have learned to make perfectly clear is that there is NO schedule, we move at the whim of weather, mechanical demands and safety. Our plans are fluid. I find that crew who have limited time in an area and want to see and do many things in a short time often feel constricted by the slow pace of a cruising boat.

we even have mermaids on the crew
The other circumstance that can cause angst is the balance of crew feeling at home, which i promote and respecting that the boat is my permanent home. i do have some quirks about my limited possessions that might seem odd. i am a mad stickler for protecting my boat, equipment and most of all people aboard. So there are rules, most come from experience that crew just do not have nor may understand. i do supply kayaks, dive gear and other fun toys so keeping them in tact is important. I find most of the crew accept this and appreciate the rules, mostly the ones for their safety, but there have been some bumps here for sure. Six years of cruising, dozens of crew, half way around the world and there has been no significant damage to the boat and most important, no injuries to the crew, this does not come from being sloppy about safety.
i take great joy in making sure the crew gain experience and learn as much as they desire. As this is a power boat and equipped with most of the modern devices there is little hands on “work” most things happen with the push of a button. My crew needs are different than a sailing vessel, no strings to pull so strength is not an issue. My needs are more domestic, cooking cleaning and provisioning. i also need dive companions. Most of my crew are diving enthusiasts, the frequency of our diving is of great value to the crew usually. The crew learn the basics of navigating with modern devices and if they like the “old school” techniques as well.
i explain that there are two types of decisions i make; ones that are arbitrary, like where to eat or dive or next stop. this type i usually give the crew options to pick. The other type are safety decisions, go/no go, weather, anchorages and such are made for the safety of the boat and crew and there is no debate on these decisions.

even the work can be fun, bikini boat wash time
The most important element is having fun. The crew have duties but rarely interfere with having a great time. I have found that crew from around the world bond fast and we make sure there is an environment that enables such bonding. One of the most endearing traditions on Furthur is the gratitude sharing time just before dinner. Although some are reluctant at first, soon it becomes a favorite time. i do like to tease and be teased and have a quirky sense of humor for sure.. plus i am a morning person, big time. One girl told me if i am ever murdered by my crew it will be before seven AM! i strive to get crew to balance the fun and the duties and to make sure each gets to do the things they like, spend quality time with the group and some alone time.
A look at my findacrew site and the references will show how wonderful my crew experiences have been. After six years i am more excited about future voyages with new crew than ever, there are adventures to be had and memories to be made.

The sixth year of the Furthur Adventure took us once again out of Thailand, the Land of Smiles, and back to Borneo and the Philippines. It was an unremarkable and familiar trip with a long stop at our favorite marina in Kota Kinabalu. After a month of decadent living, swimming pools, expansive exercise room and my favorite, a sauna, we headed back to the Philippines. There had been a report, that later proved dubious, of a pirate attempt along our path so we contacted the Malaysian Navy to keep an eye on us. They did radio checks along the way but we saw no one, evil or friendly. When we came to Puerto Princessa to check in all the anchorage was abuzz of the impending typhoon. We watched intensely as it built and collapsed then made our way north. Back in the oh so familiar and friendly waters of Coron and Puerto del Sol for Christmas, i connected with old friends. The dive center there was swamped and asked if i would assist guiding some dives, sure i said. I spent the holidays and a few months there after diving the WWII wrecks by day and playing music at the two resorts by night, ah the life. The need for fuel, repairs and change of scenery took us back to Subic Bay. A adverse weather pattern settled in which extended our stay before we could venture to the next destination. I used the time to do more boat work and have some fun.

From Subic we set out for a new destination, Puerto Gallera, a favorite with cruisers and now mine too. With new crew onboard we worked south to the Filipino party hot spot Boracay Island. This is where all the Filipinos want to go, epic white beaches and constant party. I found the anchorage so unpleasant that my stay was not one i would repeat soon. We did have the extreme pleasure of buddy boating with our friends, Peter and Rose, on Lost in Asia, something we will hopefully do again. Both Lost in Asia, a multi circumnavigation veteran and Furthur are featured in the latest edition of Voyaging Under Power.

We completed the circle with a return to Coron, a place i keep going back to and never sorry i do. Round and around we repeat the circle, Subic Bay, Puerto Gallera and then head south.

riding on a water bufflao cart to an enchanting waterfall
Now we are in new terrain and enjoy exploring the zillion islands and anchorages. We do the compulsorily swim with Whale Shark experience then down to Cebu. From Cebu we head back into the Pacific Ocean and follow the eastern Filipino coast to the city of Davao and Oceanview Marina. It is there that i made a change of plan as we had intended a short stay before heading south to Indonesia. Delayed paper work put our departure too late in the weather scheme of things. We had learned about the Sail Tamili Rally which headed to Raja Amput in September and decided to join that group. This put us in the marina for 3 months, the longest Furthur has been tied to the dock ever i think. We fell in love with the small resort island and the marina and developed great friendships with the group we would join on the next adventure. The first of September we left the marina in full dress, parade flags flying with 15 boats. As i write this we are a third of the way around the rally and all is well. We will hit two of the world’s most notorious dive area, Togian Islands and Raja Amput then back “home” to the Philippines.

Jamming with a great local Band at Samal Island
We plan on returning to Oceanview in November which is a tough call after the recent events. The marina was the scene of a recent terrorist raid and several of our friends were taken hostage. We will evaluate the situation next month but i think the security in the area will now be so extreme that it will be very safe. Our prayers go out to our friends and we hope for a speedy resolution and swift justice.

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