On our final day in Sweden, we returned to Smogen, this time anchoring off the east shore. With the North Sea directly to our west, and after watching the waves crashing into the shore there during the big westerly winds a couple of weeks earlier, it felt a little crazy to be anchored there. But…
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Kosterhavet Trails
The Koster Islands are known for their extensive and beautiful trail network. On our fourth day in Kosterhavet National Park, we took care of a few boat projects, then ran the tender to North Koster Island to walk the trails and stop for a drink on the patio of eclectic waterfront restaurant Strandkanten. Below are…
Ursholmen
The lighthouse station on Ursholmen, in Sweden’s Kosterhavet National Park, was opened in 1891. Twin towers were used to distinguish this station from others. The second light was disabled in the 1930s, when technology had advanced to produce characteristic flashing patterns with a single light, but the tower still remains. Ursholmen also is known for…
Koster Swimrun
We’d received many, many recommendations to visit Kosterhavet National Park, just south of the Swedish border with Norway. We finally arrived on a sunny September Saturday in time for the annual Koster Swimrun. The event, held annually in September, is a roughly 19-mile (30 km) race around the Koster Islands 3 miles (5 km) of…
Fjallbacka
The picturesque town of Fjallbacka is a popular and crowded summer destination. It is famous as being the summer home for Swedish film star Ingrid Bergman and also the setting for Swedish crime writer Camilla Lackberg’s “Fjallbackamorden” series of murder-mysteries. Strung along the water below steep cliffs, Fjallbacka is also known for its natural beauty,…
Vaderoarna
Vaderoarna (the Weather Islands) were classified as a nature reserve in 2012 and have one of Sweden’s warmest, but windiest, climates. A lighthouse was first installed there 1867, and a pilots’ station in 1754. Today the beautiful islands are a popular tourist destination, particularly the current pilots’ lookout, built in the 1930s. We initially planned…
Nordens Ark
Nordens Ark, on the Swedish west coast, is a private, non-profit foundation focusing on conservation, rearing, and research of endangered animals. Their zoo houses roughly 80 animal species from around the world, ranging from insects, frogs and birds to reindeer, wolves and cats large and small. From Smogen, we travelled to the head of Abyfjorden…
Smogen Storm
Smogen is right on the edge of the Skagerrak and exposed to the North Sea. So when a big westerly storm rolls in, exciting seas can develop and the storm surge can raise the water level in the harbour several feet. We spent two more nights at Smogen, touring the area by tender and on…
Smogen, the Island of Light
Smogen, the “Island of Light”, ends its summer season with an art light festival that last year drew 30,000 attendees. While most coastal Swedish towns have rolled up the carpet for the year by mid-August, Smogen is going strong until the mid-September festival. All the restaurants are still open and the docks and streets are…
Gullmarsfjorden
The 19th-century seaside resort Lysekil sits at the mouth of Gullmarsfjorden, a 15-mile-long (25 km) fjord that in 1983 was designated as Sweden’s first marine conservation area. The aquarium at Lysekil features sea life from Gullmarsfjorden that bears a remarkable resemblance to those we’ve seen when diving in the Pacific Northwest, with the Wolf Eels…
