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Port #59: Harbor View Marina, Marsh Harbor…Big City Life in the Abacos

Great
Loop II Date: 04/21/2015

Day #263 (Tuesday) 27 miles (3584 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #59:Marsh Harbor, Great Abaco Island, BS

Marina: Harbor View Marina

.Todd and I kept an eye on the
weather.  We had the Whale Passage to go
through to get OB into waters of the Abaco Sea that would lead us to more
island stops down the chain of Abaco islands. 
The day finally arrived for us to move on.


We were both a little anxious about
the Whale Passage.  It’s a narrow area
with rocks on both sides.  The Abaco Sea
becomes very shallow in that area and boats with drafts of more than 3 feet are
advised to take the passage into the Atlantic Ocean.  Once in the ocean, we would take a 90 degree
turn to make way around Whale Cay and come back into the Sea of Abaco.

The Whale Passage…we had to take the route at the top.  The lower route is for shallow draft boats.  OB is too big a girl.
This is a picture of the Whale Passage in a Rage…that’s what we were trying to avoid.  I got this picture on the web…it didn’t look like this when we went through, thank goodness!
The passage ended up being a
non-event.  However, the winds picked up
making our intended stop at Great Guana Cay not possible.  We would have been very uncomfortable on a
mooring there with the seas rolling into the small harbor.


Todd decided crossing the Sea of
Abaco to Marsh Harbor would be more favorable. 
It was one of the towns on Great Abaco Island we intended to visit.  We picked Harbor View Marina from
recommendations on Active Captain.  It is
one of our most valued tools for marinas, anchorages, hazards and a plethora of
other pieces of information that keeps us out of harm’s way.

Harborview Marina in Marsh Harbor.
As we were tying up, I hear my name
called.  I looked around and directly
behind us on another dock was Paul on Infinite Sea.  Paul and Stephanie were the Loopers that
stayed by our side after we hit the weir dam in the Mississippi River.  They were making their way back up the
islands to stage their crossing back to the USA.


Marsh Harbor is the third largest
city in the Abaco islands.  It was a busy
little town with narrow roads and, for the most part, no place to walk.  However, we wanted to get Charlie off the
boat and stretch our legs, as well. 
Although we were unimpressed with Marsh Harbor, we did find a marine
store that carried a Mercury engine part we needed to repair the engine on our
dinghy.


While we were at the Harbor View
Marina waiting for better weather in Great Guana Cay, there was a large amount
of traffic using the fast catamaran at the end of our dock to go
somewhere.  Todd inquired where all the
folks were going.  He was told these were
multi-millionaires going the homes and villas at Baker’s Bay on Great Guana
Cay.  The day we were leaving for Orchid
Bay in Great Guana Cay, the Prime Minister of the Bahamas walked down the dock
with a huge group of military police as well as family and friends.

Sunset in Marsh Harbor…looking across the anchorage.

Port #61: Treasure Cay BS…Paradise Found!

Great Loop II Date: 04/25/2015Day #267 (Saturday) 12 miles (3606 total miles)Locks: 0 (30 total locks)Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges) Port #61: Treasure Cay, Great Abaco Island, BSMarina: Treasure Cay Marina and ResortWeather came into decision making onc…

Port #58:Green Turtle Cay…Making New Friends and Meeting the Natives

Great
Loop II Date: 04/18/2015

Day #260 (Saturday) 23.2 miles (3557 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #58: Green Turtle Cay, BS

Marina: Bluff House Marina and Resort, White Sound

Our night was peaceful.  OB’s turning with the tides didn’t allow any
benefit from the constant south winds. 
Once again we had to rely on our little battery operated camp fan.  It has become a life saver!


The morning dawned with a few
showers in the area.  We had a fairly
good ride through the Sea of Abaco to Green Turtle Cay.  We came through the entry to White Sound at
descending tide.  It was a little shallow
in spots be very doable.  Since this is
our first trip in the Abacos, we don’t have local knowledge and rely on printed
material from those who have come through before us.  So far everything has been spot on.


We docked at The Bluff House Marina
and Resort.  The dockmaster was a sweet
young man and helped us every step of the way. 
The docks are at an angle and typical stern-in, piling tie.  The angle is what makes sterning in a little
difficult but the Captain brought us in well.

OB at her dock in Bluff House Marina.
The Captain found his resting spot at the Tranquil Turtle…the beach side of the Bluff House Resort.

The Tranquil Turtle.
A palm used by lots of tourists for pictures…at the Tranquil Turtle Beach.
Half way up the hill from the marina going to the Tranquil Turtle beach on the other side of the resort.  Walking this gave us lots of exercise.  OB is right in the middle of the picture.
Last month’s special was to spend
two nights get the third night free. 
This month’s special was free breakfast every morning.  Not a bad deal since their cook was AWESOME!

We took the dinghy to Black Sound to the downtown area…New Plymouth.
The Anglican Church in New Plymouth.
One of the houses on the waterfront…the market is the little building to the right with the golf cart in the parking lot.
We rented a golf cart with another
couple on our last day there so we could explore New Plymouth, the downtown
area on Green Turtle Cay.  It was an
interesting trip on wild roads.  Todd
learned to drive on the left side in very narrow streets.

A newer house near the Leeward Yacht Club and Lazy Lizard.
Lazy Lizard…good food and good beverages.
Todd and Doug looking downtown from the Wrecking Tree restaurant.
The Wrecking Tree…more good food.  It got its name from the days of pirates and schooners.  When a schooner would wreck on the reefs in the surrounding areas, pirates would raid them and bring their booty to this tree to trade for cash and gold.
Laundry day…native housing in New Plymouth.
Walking down the streets of New Plymouth…yes, these were the streets for cars, golf carts and people.  No sidewalks for the most part.
Memorial Sculpture Garden in New Plymouth…
…dedicated to the native Bahamians and the Loyalist settlers.
Miss Emily’s Blue Bee Bar…home of the original Goombay Smash.
The school children happened by while we were at Miss Emily’s…Coco, Doug and Dari’s dog, was a huge hit with them.  They were 4th through 6th graders.
The conch graveyard at the Pineapple Bar and Grill.

So far our only problem on this part
of the adventure is the constant prevailing winds.  Waters that are usually crystal clear
displaying beautiful aquariums to the ocean floor are marred with ripples that
distort the view.  Traveling is rocky but
not uncomfortable for the most part.  We
are changing destinations to adjust to the conditions hoping to pick up those
passed by as we return up the Abacos.

Port #60: Orchid Bay, Great Guana Cay…The Beauty of the Atlantic Ocean in the Abacos

Great Loop II Date: 04/23/2015

Day #265 (Thursday) 9 miles (3594 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #60: Orchid Bay, Great Guana Cay, BS

Mooring: Orchid Bay – Dive Guana

.After filling the water tank and giving Charlie a nice bath, we waved goodbye to Marsh Harbor and took a heading for Orchid Bay on Great Guana Cay.  The winds always seemed to be blowing.  They had clocked around to make the moorings at Orchid Bay more comfortable.


We had planned to meet Dahri and Doug on All In at Orchid Bay.  Todd and I came to know this fine couple at Bluff House Marina.  Our timing was perfect.  They hailed us on the VHF and were docked by the time we took our mooring.

Moored in Orchid Bay on Great Guana Cay
Great Guana Cay has two bar and grills that are known by most who visit the Abaco islands.  We chose Grabbers for lunch and Nippers for dinner.  Of the two, Nippers definitely had the scenery.

Grabbers T-shirt Shop…yes, we got one.
The first round of the Billfish Tournament started at Great Guana Cay while we were there.  These sport fishing boats were HUGE!
Sunset from OB our first night in Orchid Bay.

We returned to Nippers the following day for lunch and to spend time on the beach.  The incoming waves were amazing to watch as they broke on the rocks.  We decided this was definitely one of the highlights of our trip.

Coming up Nippers Dock…you can’t get lost going to Nippers.
The next directional sign…
…and the next (in front and to the right of Todd)…
…and the next…
…this wasn’t a sign but it was on the way…think it died trying to get there…
…then it’s just up the hill…
…and you’re there…but this is the BACK of Nippers…
…THIS is the view from the front of Nippers!
We know why everyone that’s been there TALKS about it!
That’s Doug, Dari and Coco on the beach.
THIS is now my wallpaper on my computer!

Port #59: Harbor View Marina, Marsh Harbor…Big City Life in the Abacos

Great Loop II Date: 04/21/2015

Day #263 (Tuesday) 27 miles (3584 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #59:Marsh Harbor, Great Abaco Island, BS

Marina: Harbor View Marina

.Todd and I kept an eye on the weather.  We had the Whale Passage to go through to get OB into waters of the Abaco Sea that would lead us to more island stops down the chain of Abaco islands.  The day finally arrived for us to move on.


We were both a little anxious about the Whale Passage.  It’s a narrow area with rocks on both sides.  The Abaco Sea becomes very shallow in that area and boats with drafts of more than 3 feet are advised to take the passage into the Atlantic Ocean.  Once in the ocean, we would take a 90 degree turn to make way around Whale Cay and come back into the Sea of Abaco.

The Whale Passage…we had to take the route at the top.  The lower route is for shallow draft boats.  OB is too big a girl.
This is a picture of the Whale Passage in a Rage…that’s what we were trying to avoid.  I got this picture on the web…it didn’t look like this when we went through, thank goodness!
The passage ended up being a non-event.  However, the winds picked up making our intended stop at Great Guana Cay not possible.  We would have been very uncomfortable on a mooring there with the seas rolling into the small harbor.


Todd decided crossing the Sea of Abaco to Marsh Harbor would be more favorable.  It was one of the towns on Great Abaco Island we intended to visit.  We picked Harbor View Marina from recommendations on Active Captain.  It is one of our most valued tools for marinas, anchorages, hazards and a plethora of other pieces of information that keeps us out of harm’s way.

Harborview Marina in Marsh Harbor.
As we were tying up, I hear my name called.  I looked around and directly behind us on another dock was Paul on Infinite Sea.  Paul and Stephanie were the Loopers that stayed by our side after we hit the weir dam in the Mississippi River.  They were making their way back up the islands to stage their crossing back to the USA.


Marsh Harbor is the third largest city in the Abaco islands.  It was a busy little town with narrow roads and, for the most part, no place to walk.  However, we wanted to get Charlie off the boat and stretch our legs, as well.  Although we were unimpressed with Marsh Harbor, we did find a marine store that carried a Mercury engine part we needed to repair the engine on our dinghy.


While we were at the Harbor View Marina waiting for better weather in Great Guana Cay, there was a large amount of traffic using the fast catamaran at the end of our dock to go somewhere.  Todd inquired where all the folks were going.  He was told these were multi-millionaires going the homes and villas at Baker’s Bay on Great Guana Cay.  The day we were leaving for Orchid Bay in Great Guana Cay, the Prime Minister of the Bahamas walked down the dock with a huge group of military police as well as family and friends.

Sunset in Marsh Harbor…looking across the anchorage.

Port #57:Crab Cay…No Crabs, No Fish

Great
Loop II Date: 04/17/2015

Day #259 (Friday)  45.8
miles (3534.3 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #57: Crab Cay, BS

Anchorage: Behind Crab Cay and Angelfish Point

The crew had a great night’s sleep
with a wonderful breeze coming through the hatches.  We were up and about by 5:30AM and left the
anchorage by 7:30AM.  The day was
non-descript as we moved around north of Great Sale Cay to leave the Little
Bahama Bank and work our way down to the Sea of Abaco.


The Sea of Abaco runs between the
barrier islands to the East and Great Abaco Island to the West.  It’s fairly wide but does afford some
protection from the prevailing winds.  The
water continued to be the amazing turquoise color.


We saw a lot of cruisers heading
north.  In a little less than a month
now, we would find ourselves on that same path. 
Until then, the temperatures were warm, the waters beautiful (although
roughed up some with the prevailing Southerly winds) and there were many
islands and anchorages to explore.  Our
adventure was leading us into the Bahamian way of life.


Our plan was to anchor at Powell
Cay, however the winds we from the wrong direction for a comfortable
night.  We decided on an anchorage behind
Crab Cay and north of Great Abaco Island. 
We would be in a spot protected from the all direction except the west.

We avoided hazards along the way like this huge rock outcropping.
We found our way into the anchorage
and dropped anchor in a nice, big sand patch. 
We were amazed by the big, red starfish moving across the ocean floor
when I spotted something that looked really weird.  As our stern swung around, we could make out
a huge cable buckled up as if someone had caught it with an anchor.  It looked like it could be a huge power cable
or a telephone/cell phone cable running from Great Abaco Island to
somewhere.  We decided it would be
prudent to move OB away from there before she caught her props up in the cable.


I pulled anchor and we scooted up
the sand patch about a half mile or so and dropped anchor again.  Well settled, we dropped the dinghy to
explore.  The small beach was very rocky
and we didn’t take the dinghy in fearing puncturing one of the tubes.  We moved into some of the shoaled areas.  The wind kept a ripple on the water making it
hard to see the bottom and explore the aquarium we were in.  After a couple of hours, we headed back to OB
and stored the dinghy for travel the next day.

OB anchored behind Crab Cay…with Great Abaco Island in the background.
Happy Captain…
Happy Admiral
Two other boats moved into our anchorage later in the evening.  Both were heading north to cross back to the USA.
Another quiet evening with storms around but never affecting us.

Port #56:Great Sale Cay…Not For Sale!

Great
Loop II Date: 04/16/2015

Day #258 (Thursday) 55.5 miles (3488.5 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #56: Great Sale Cay, BS

Anchorage: Northwest Harbor

The crew on OB decided to sleep in
after 4 days of travel.  We didn’t leave
West End until the checkout time of 11AM. 
The weather was beautiful with partly cloudy skies.  We watched rain storms develop around us
throughout the day but never had a raindrop hit OB.


The waters were unbelievable.  Neither Todd or I had ever seen anything such
an amazing blue and so clear.  Although
we could see starfish crawling along the bottom and one large shark as we
passed through Indian Pass, there was a constant wind that disturbed a clear
view of the aquarium we were in.

The color of the waters in the Bahamas was indescribable…even with the constant winds from El Nino.

We traveled to an anchorage in the
crook of Great Sale Cay.  It’s a favorite
spot used by many boaters traversing the bank to the Abaco Sea.  OB sat quietly through the night.  We continued to see storm clouds around us
but nothing came our way.

Our anchorage in Great Sale Cay.

Port #58:Green Turtle Cay…Making New Friends and Meeting the Natives

Great Loop II Date: 04/18/2015

Day #260 (Saturday) 23.2 miles (3557 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #58: Green Turtle Cay, BS

Marina: Bluff House Marina and Resort, White Sound

Our night was peaceful.  OB’s turning with the tides didn’t allow any benefit from the constant south winds.  Once again we had to rely on our little battery operated camp fan.  It has become a life saver!


The morning dawned with a few showers in the area.  We had a fairly good ride through the Sea of Abaco to Green Turtle Cay.  We came through the entry to White Sound at descending tide.  It was a little shallow in spots be very doable.  Since this is our first trip in the Abacos, we don’t have local knowledge and rely on printed material from those who have come through before us.  So far everything has been spot on.


We docked at The Bluff House Marina and Resort.  The dockmaster was a sweet young man and helped us every step of the way.  The docks are at an angle and typical stern-in, piling tie.  The angle is what makes sterning in a little difficult but the Captain brought us in well.

OB at her dock in Bluff House Marina.
The Captain found his resting spot at the Tranquil Turtle…the beach side of the Bluff House Resort.

The Tranquil Turtle.
A palm used by lots of tourists for pictures…at the Tranquil Turtle Beach.
Half way up the hill from the marina going to the Tranquil Turtle beach on the other side of the resort.  Walking this gave us lots of exercise.  OB is right in the middle of the picture.
Last month’s special was to spend two nights get the third night free.  This month’s special was free breakfast every morning.  Not a bad deal since their cook was AWESOME!

We took the dinghy to Black Sound to the downtown area…New Plymouth.
The Anglican Church in New Plymouth.
One of the houses on the waterfront…the market is the little building to the right with the golf cart in the parking lot.
We rented a golf cart with another couple on our last day there so we could explore New Plymouth, the downtown area on Green Turtle Cay.  It was an interesting trip on wild roads.  Todd learned to drive on the left side in very narrow streets.

A newer house near the Leeward Yacht Club and Lazy Lizard.
Lazy Lizard…good food and good beverages.
Todd and Doug looking downtown from the Wrecking Tree restaurant.
The Wrecking Tree…more good food.  It got its name from the days of pirates and schooners.  When a schooner would wreck on the reefs in the surrounding areas, pirates would raid them and bring their booty to this tree to trade for cash and gold.
Laundry day…native housing in New Plymouth.
Walking down the streets of New Plymouth…yes, these were the streets for cars, golf carts and people.  No sidewalks for the most part.
Memorial Sculpture Garden in New Plymouth…
…dedicated to the native Bahamians and the Loyalist settlers.
Miss Emily’s Blue Bee Bar…home of the original Goombay Smash.
The school children happened by while we were at Miss Emily’s…Coco, Doug and Dari’s dog, was a huge hit with them.  They were 4th through 6th graders.
The conch graveyard at the Pineapple Bar and Grill.

So far our only problem on this part of the adventure is the constant prevailing winds.  Waters that are usually crystal clear displaying beautiful aquariums to the ocean floor are marred with ripples that distort the view.  Traveling is rocky but not uncomfortable for the most part.  We are changing destinations to adjust to the conditions hoping to pick up those passed by as we return up the Abacos.

Port #55: It’s the Bahamas MON!

Great
Loop II Date: 04/15/2015


Day #257 (Wednesday)  81.4
miles (3433 total miles)

Locks: 0 (30 total locks)

Bridges: 0 (4 total bridges)

Port #55: West End, Freeport, BS

Marina: Old Bahama Bay Marina and Resort

The
alarm clock went off at 4:45AM.  The
first pot of coffee was made and the second perking.  Today would take up deep out into the
Atlantic Ocean into an adventure we’d planned four years ago and never
realized.


The
morning broke with building clouds on the horizon that dissipated as we moved
southeast on our route.  We were met with
2 to 3 foot rolling waves that bobbed us around like a cork in the water.  We both were comfortable with the conditions
and decided to continue.

Leaving the USA through the Port St. Lucie Inlet in Florida.
As
we moved farther out into the ocean, the color of blue became almost
indigo.  Absolutely beautiful and
indescribable.  The rollers continued
throughout the day.

The big blue Atlantic Ocean…so hard to capture in pictures.
We
saw a few sport fishing boats, two sailboats, two cruisers like us and a
freighter all going in different directions from our own course.  We were alone much like our crossing from
Apalachacola, FL to Clearwater Beach, FL. It wasn’t frightening, just sobering
to be alone with the sea.

Notice anything different with Charlie?  Me neither.
As
we got closer to West End, the rolling waves became ‘confused’ and were coming
at us from both sides.  OB was pitching
and rolling more, making life uncomfortable. 
Todd took OB up on plane for the last 50 minutes of the trip.


When
we came into the Little Bahama Bank, our depth sounder started measuring
again.  While we were in the Gulf Stream,
the ocean floor was so deep the depth sounder couldn’t find it (around 2000
feet).  That part of the trip, the
sounder stayed at its’ last measureable reading (496 feet).


Todd
had called Old Bahama Bay Marina before we left Stuart.  No one was in the office at that hour so he
left a message requesting dockage for the night…and hoped we’d have a dock when
we arrived.  The dockmaster had picked up
the message and had a dock ready for us, much to our relief!


As
we entered the harbor, I hung the yellow Quarantine flag from one of our VHF
antennas.  This is a signal to Customs
that we have not formally checked in to their country.  Todd had completed forms that were provided
online, took them as well as Charlie’s documents and checked in to Customs
without a problem.

OB becomes Bahamian…
…she sported the Bahamian Courtesy Flag throughout our time in the Bahamas.
West End Marina and Resort in the far outskirts of Freeport, Grand Bahama
We
headed straight for the Beach Bar to test out Bahamian rum and Bahamian beer
(Kalik).  The folks were very friendly
both behind the bar and customers at the bar. 
We found the same atmosphere at the restaurant later in the evening,
although it took a couple of hours to get our food.  My conch salad was excellent but Todd’s
personal pizza was mediocre at best.


All
in all, our first day of our Bahamian adventure was a success!

Port #54: Stuart, FL…It’s Time to Get Excited!

Great Loop II Date: 04/14/2015


Day
#256 (Tuesday):  16.2 miles (3351.6 total
miles)

Locks:
1 (30 total locks)

Bridges:
1 (4 total bridges)

Port
#54: Stuart, FL

Marina:
Sailfish Marina

The crew got to sleep in since this was going to be
a short travel day.  We wanted to be able
to get some work done around the boat and prepare for our crossing to the
Bahamas.  However, excitement still had
us up by 5:30AM.  We were at our final
lock by 8AM.

I fixed the broken navigation light as best I could.  The only lid that fit was a Fritos Cheese Dip lid.  Guess what we had for snacks that day!
Our last lock until we get to Virginia.
We took OB into American Yacht Yard to top off her
diesel.  It was a short trip from there
to our marina stop.

OBs slip among the giants.  The boats in this marina made OB look like a dinghy!
Todd gave OB a quick bath and checked all her fluid
levels.  I did some necessary clean up
inside and topped off OB’s water tanks. 
We looked over the final trip plan to the Bahamas, deciding to go with
our original plan of West End, Freeport, BS as our entry point.


One last look at the weather reports and travel
tools told us Wednesday was our day to cross. 
It did demonstrate Thursday as an option, as well.  It was an early to bed night with the clock
set for 4:45AM once again!