May 2, 2018Sometime during the night, the wind shifted to NW, but remained light. At 0740 we began the stinky and dirty process of pulling the anchor from the muddy bottom in Gerrans Bay. The day was sunny, but still cool.Heading out into M…
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Alaska 2018 Blog Post 3 Vancouver to Pender Harbour
April 30, 2018
Today was provisioning day in Vancouver, with walking trips to Costco and Granville Island for fresh produce and fresh oysters, along with trips to Urban Fare for items for which we did not need the Costco quantities. Later in the afternoon, Frank and Cathy Montgomery arrived and we shared the fresh oysters on board Siprit, followed by an excellent dinner at Provence Marinaside restaurant at the head of the dock.
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| Some of the people ferries from our marina to Granville Island |
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| Our dock mates at Quayside Marina |
May 1, 2018
The skies were overcast to partly sunny as we prepared to depart False Creek’s Quayside Marina. After filling the water tanks, we cast off the lines at 0930 and motored slowly out of False Creek, which has a 5 knot speed limit and a lot of people ferry traffic, as well as kayaks, stand up paddle boards and other miscellaneous watercraft.
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| Departing False Creek |
Clearing the entrance, we set a course for Bowen Island, crossing the traffic lanes at right angles as the wind speed increased to 15-20 knots. The seas gradually increased to 4-5 feet as the wind held steady at 15 knots. Rounding Bowen Island, we set a straight line course for Merry Island and Welcome Passage in confused short seas still running 4-5 feet from the northwest. As we continued north the seas gradually calmed to 1-2 feet, but the wind remained at 10-15 knots approaching Merry Island.
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| Merry Island Lighthouse |
The seas were rippled north of Merry Island and the wind shifted from NW to SE under sunny skies. Spirit entered Pender Harbour at 1520. Garden Bay was our initial choice for anchorage, but a number of buoys, floating barges, crab pots and anchored liveaboard boats used all the safe spots, so we went back to Gerrans Bay and anchored in our usual spot.
Engines were shut down at 1552 as we set the hook in a mud bottom in 45 feet of water. Todays run of 48.5 nautical miles was accomplished in 6 hours 22 minutes, including the slow speed requirement in False Creek and the no wake speed from Pender Harbour entrance to our anchorage.
Alaska 2018 Post 2 – Roche Harbor to False Creek
April 25, 2018
Boats arrived all day and by 1700 there were 26 Selene Trawlers in the marina. The day started off a little cool, but by afternoon it was downright hot. A group of us staged a surprise birthday party for Frank Montgomery on Spirit, with three types of pasta, salads, brownies and plenty of great wine.
April 26, 2018
Today was the “Selene University”, an all-day class on basic electricity for boats. The session was well attended and that evening many of the owners showed up at McMillin’s restaurant for excellent food and drink. One of the activities at the Rendezvous is a photo contest with several categories including a “Name That Port”. We decided to enter the attached picture from dinner, called Name That Pork, from the garnishes on the Pig War Martini.
April 27, 2018
Today’s activities included seminars such as Nobeltec Time Zero software, Marine Communications and how to transit the West Coast in a Selene. These were followed by a potluck in the evening.
April 28, 2018
More seminars, then a wine tasting lunch where we learned how to identify the various wine aromas, flavors, bouquets, etc. There was a “Trawler Crawl” in the late afternoon to see what other owners had done for customization. The evening was capped off with a banquet and prizes for each boat.
April 29, 2018
At 0600 we cast off the lines before it was fully light and headed for Vancouver and our slip at False Creek’s Quayside Marina. We took a close look at Patos Island before heading out into the Straits of Georgia past Point Roberts, Sand Head and finally into False Creek. Spirit arrived at the Customs Dock at 1353, but we had to wait until 1515 before leaving. By 1535 we were tied up at Quayside Marina after a nearly flat 60 nautical mile crossing.
Alaska 2018 Post 1 – Anacortes to Roche Harbor
April 24, 2018
This year we are moving north slowly, taking several days enroute to Vancouver to attend the NW Selene Owner’s Rendezvous in Roche Harbor on San Juan Island. The slow start is actually good for the trip north through the tidal rapids since high slack water, our preferred transit time for the rapids north of Desolation Sound, will be in the middle of the daylight hours, allowing a smooth passage north, weather dependent.
After last minute shopping for perishables in Anacortes, parking the car for the next three months and filling the water tanks with fresh water, we cast off the lines from Anacortes Marina at 1120. The skies were hazy and there was a brisk NW wind which covered Spirit in salt spray. Once into Harney Channel the wind subsided, and the water was glassy.
Spirit took advantage of the ebb tide down Spieden Channel, showing 10.7 knots over the bottom. Entering Roche Harbor west of Pearl Island, we docked at the Roche Harbor Yacht Club Outstation at slip G-15 at 1450 under now sunny and warm skies, joining several other early arrival Selenes. Our log shows 27.2 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes Marina.
After washing the salt off Spirit and launching the tender, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the sun, watching 2 more Selene Trawlers arrive, with 2 more anchored in the harbor.
Roche Harbor has upgraded the AC shore power on G dock to GFCI breakers, and owners are finding that AC wiring on board must be ABYC compliant to avoid tripping the GFCI breakers. Marina staff is here to help, but often the only solution is to move to a non-GFCI slip elsewhere in the marina, until the wiring issues are resolved.
The Selene Rendezvous is a gathering of Selene owners and prospective owners, along with several vendors who support the fleet. The owners gather annually and partake of both social activities and a variety of learning seminars. The rendezvous is organized by owner volunteers, with additional financial support provided by the vendor community.
North Cape Cruise Post 3
June 3 – North Cape (Nord Kapp)
Seabourn Quest departed Honningsvag at 2100 and slowly cruised north along the coast of Storstappen Island, the location of North Cape. The Observation Lounge was packed with guests waiting to see North Cape from the water. At 2315 Quest passed about 0.5 miles north of the famous headland. Although the sun was obscured by low clouds and occasional snow flurries, the was still plenty of light for pictures from the deck. With the 25-30 knot winds it was a chilly experience to get pictures of North Cape, but the guests all took turns and shared taking pictures of each other for the event. Ducking back inside to warm up for a few minutes, as well as refreshing our libations, we then stepped back out and got a few photos of the real northernmost point of Storstappen Island, which cannot be reached by road, and is a much less photogenic headland compared with the high vertical headland that is called Nord Kapp. According to our GPS we reached 71.18 degrees North Latitude.
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| Storstappen Island and North Cape |
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| Off the Official North Cape Latititude 71.2 degrees North |
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| Off the true North Cape |
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| Rugged North Cape – Monument barely visible |
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| More North Cape |
Since we are so far north, it does not ever get dark, but it was interesting to leave the suite drapes open. Seabourn even provides eyeshades to help guests sleep with 24 hours of daylight and avoid disrupting our circadian rhythms. However, since we are 9 time zones out from home, ours are already messed up.
June 4 – At Sea
The rough seas and heavy winds persisted most of the day, with temperatures gradually increasing. Tonight was the last night north of the Polar Arctic Circle and we were fortunate that the skies cleared as many guests again gathered in the Observation Lounge to experience the sun approaching the horizon, never quite getting there. This was also the last “formal” night before arriving in Copenhagen in a few days. At midnight, the lounge was full as we all watched the sun approach the horizon. The sun then moved through north to the east reaching its lowest point at 0141 am and eventually started getting higher on the horizon.
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| Final night under midnight sun |
June 5 – At Sea
The temperature has increased to 46 degrees and for most of the morning the skies were overcast. A sizable swell was still present. About 1100 the winds switched to the West and started to increase. Other than some lectures on Viking history our day was spent relaxing.
June 6 – Olden, Norway
The Quest steamed into Nordfjord and docked at the small town of Olden, which is nestled at the head of the fjord and framed by spectacular hills. Several weeks before our arrival the new aerial tram at Loen, just a few kilometers from Olden, was officially opened by the Queen of Norway. Patrick headed out on his tour by Zodiac to the dock in front of the tram station. All 35 people visiting the cable car boarded and we headed up the 1011 meter single span tram, arriving 5 minutes later. Seven of the group, including Patrick, then headed out on a hike to the top of the mountain. There was still a lot of snow patches on the ground which we slogged through. Keen sandals were not the best choice in the snow, since the snow packed up under the arch of the foot and soaked Patrick’s wool socks. Returning to the top of the tram we had a cup of coffee ($7 USD) in the new restaurant before riding the tram back to the zodiac for a tour of Nordfjord. Patrick then walked through the town of Olden looking for photo opportunities.
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| Approaching Olden, Nordfjord |
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| Olden |
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| New Lutheran Church, Olden |
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| Patrick Hiking above Loen |
Miriam boarded a bus for a different tour into the villages of Blakset, Fjelli and Holland, then on to several viewpoints, including the spectacular Nos viewpoint with a 1600 foot sheer drop into the valley below. Her tour concluded with a visit to Nordfjordeid village before returning to the ship.
June 7, 2017 – Bergen, Norway
Since we have been to Bergen several times and have seen most of the traditional tourist sights, we had arranged to meet our friends Randi and Stewart MacKay, who live about 35 miles away on a island south of Bergen. The Quest docked right at one end of the old harbor, an easy 5 minute walk to the center of Bryggen, the historic Hanseatic area of Bergen at the head of the harbor. We spent from late morning to late afternoon catching up and swapping pictures of kids, grandkids and places we have been, while enjoying a nice meal overlooking the inner harbor at Bergen. When it was time to return to the ship the light rain from earlier had turned into serious showers.
June 8, 2017 – Stavanger, Norway
Stavanger has exploded in size and has massive new construction since Patrick last visited it on business 35 years ago. The Seabourn Quest docked right in the inner harbor at 0700, so those people hiking to Preikestollen (Pulpit Rock) could make the hike (a 7 ½ hour round trip) and get back to the ship before it departed at 1600. Patrick was one of the 27 guests attempting the hike in steady rain and fog. Patrick had completed the hike previously, wearing business attire. The trail is in much better shape since the Norwegian government hired Nepali Sherpas to rebuild the trail and it now resembles the trails Patrick hiked on the way to Mt. Everest Base Camp in 2012.
The ship and tour guide enforced strict “turn around and descend” times to make sure the group could catch the correct ferry boats and return to the ship. About half the group, including Patrick, made it to the top where the fog, rain and clouds made it a dreary place, offset by the champagne toast the guides had waiting at the top.
Our plan was for Miriam to take the cruise boat up Lysefjord and view the rock from below. The miserable weather conditions precluded even a glimpse from below.
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| Mix of old and new in Stavanger |
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| Approaching Pulpit Rock in fog |
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| Finally on top of rock |
The Seabourn Quest departed Stavanger on time, completing the Norwegian portion of our cruise, heading for Skagen, Denmark.
June 9, 2017 – Skagen, Denmark
The predicted strong winds that could have prevented the Quest from docking at Skagen never materialized, so the ship docked on schedule at 0900. The cruise ship terminal is fairly new and within walking distance from the town center, but a free shuttle bus was provided anyway.
We met our friend Lisa Marx and her friend Jette Hertoft for a delicious and expansive Danish Smorrebrod lunch in town. We avoided the aquavit, but did indulge in Danish beer. After lunch we then wandered the main street which is one long pedestrian shopping mall. Skagen is a popular tourist destination for Danish residents as well as the occasional cruise ship. Since we had visited Skagen in 2013 and walked out to the point where the Kattegat and Skaggerak meet we did not repeat that experience.
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| Our lunch stop in Skagen |
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| Another Lutheran Church, Skagen |
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| Skagen Fisherman’s Memorial |
The rain held off, mostly, until departure time, and then was steady through the night as the ship travelled the 155 nautical miles to Copenhagen.
June 10, 2017 – Copenhagen
The ship docked early, at 0600, close to the center of town and just two city blocks from the “Little Mermaid “statue. Rain was predicted, sometimes heavy, with temperatures only reaching 60 degrees. We have to be back on board by 1545 for the safety briefing before we depart and begin the Baltic portion of our cruise. All but 38 passengers disembarked here at Copenhagen, so we will have a whole new group of people to meet.
The rain never materialized and after the hubbub of disembarkation for those guests leaving the Seabourn Quest we headed ashore and walked around the Kasstellet near the ship. This fortress is still an active military installation, open to the public. It is a pentagon star shape surrounded by a moat with high walls on both sides of the moat. The moat is now the home of swans, ducks and other sea birds. The crowds around the popular attractions such as the “Little Mermaid” continued to build, as did the tour buses, so we returned to the ship area and walked around an outlet mall right across from the ship. Like most outlet malls there were few real bargains and nothing that screamed “take me” for either of us.
The cruise departed on schedule with a full ship and 292 passengers new to Seabourn out of the 420 on board.
Miriam and Patrick celebrated their 45th wedding anniversary with a dinner in The Grill by Thomas Keller, at a table decorated with rose petals in a heart shaped pattern.
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| 45th Anniversary dinner at the Grill on Seabourn Quest |
June 11, 2017 – at Sea
A relaxing day at sea under mostly sunny skies, with an ability to soak up some Vitamin D. Many of the new passengers are in large family or social groups, so the interaction with the other guests is harder than on previous Seabourn sailings. When our stewardess, Natalya, found out about our anniversary we returned to a cabin littered with hearts and kissing swans made from towels!
June 12, 2017 – Tallinn, Estonia
We did a walking tour of the old town in rain, heavy at times. The rain and crowds made for challenging photography. The town would be pleasant for exploring if the weather had been better. The narrow cobblestone streets and old buildings, with many churches, old houses and upper and lower city walls could occupy several days. Taking cover from the rain after browsing the street stalls nestled behind the old city walls during our free time we ducked into “Peppersack” restaurant for a coffee and pastry. The building dates from 1432, but is still in good shape.
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| In the rain in Tallin |
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| Narrow Twisting streets |
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| Staircase between upper and lower towns |
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| Steert Vendors |
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| Center of lower town |
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| Our food stop, built in 1432 |
June 13, 2017 – St. Petersburg, Russia
The ship docking location was changed from Lieutenant Schmidt’s Facade on the Neva River just a few short blocks from the Hermitage to the newer Marine Façade cruise terminal 5 miles from the Hermitage. The Marine Façade is capable of holding as many as 7 cruise ships, and we were one of 5 when we arrived.
The bus trip to the center of the city takes as long as 45 minutes when the traffic is heavy. The streets are complicated by the many canals winding around the city, and the relatively few bridges crossing them. Our tour began with immigration formalities and a bus ride to the Hermitage Museum, with a photo stop at St. Isaacs Cathedral just a few blocks away. Our tour began with an early entry (before official opening hours) into the museum, where we had to shed jackets and backpacks in the cloakroom before entering the museum. Passing through the Egyptian Room, our first stop was the gold and diamond rooms where photography was prohibited, but where we saw much of the Romanov collection of artifacts and jewels. Our guides could translate the explanations given by the museum tour guides, which are required in those rooms. In fact, we were split into two groups of 10 for that portion of the tour. Those rooms require the museum guides and they limit the number of groups in the rooms. By the time we exited those rooms, the public was streaming into the main museum and we became part of the massive crowds viewing the artwork and sculpture. It was nearly impossible to get close to the Da Vinci’s, but with plastic protecting them, the view was not that good anyway. An individual could spend days in the Hermitage and still not see everything.
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| Miriam in Hermitage Museum |
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| Church of Spilled Blood |
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| St Peter & St Paul |
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| The altar inside |
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| Catherine Palace Entrance |
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| The Amber Room |
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| Amber room Detail |
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| Ballroom and concert |
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| Chapel at Catherine Palace |
Leaving the Hermitage sometime after noon we then visited St. Peter and St. Paul Church with it’s slender 431 foot gold spire, the highest in Europe. The church sits inside the fortress of the same name on an island in the Neva River. The river and canal system was crowded with sightseeing boats, hydrofoils and private yachts, all traveling at relatively high speed down the waterways.
Returning to our bus, we headed back to the Admiralty Façade for lunch at “Bellini” restaurant, which included vodka, borsht, stroganoff and a folkloric show.
After lunch, our final stop of the day was at “The Church of Spilled Blood”, a massive orthodox style building commemorating the assassination of Czar Nicholas II. The building is made to look old, but in fact was built in 1905. After the Bolshevik revolution, the building was used for storage, and as a morgue during WWII. The building escaped major damage during the war. It was restored beginning in 1971 and an unexploded artillery shell was found imbedded in the dome while repairing leaks in the roof.
Returning to the ship we hurriedly changed and grabbed a bite to eat before re-boarding busses for the one hour trip to Catherine Palace, in Pushkin. We entered the palace after hours for a special tour, putting on booties to protect the floors. The palace was heavily damaged during the war, and is still undergoing restoration. Photos were allowed, including in the “Amber Room”, considered by some to be the 8thwonder of the world, where the walls are composed of complex and beautiful amber mosaics.
Entering the massive ballroom, which reminded us of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, but better restored, we were served champagne and then listened and watched classical music, opera arias and folkloric dancing before exiting to the main courtyard. In the main courtyard we were treated to a military band as we slowly walked back to the main gates of the palace and got back on the buses for the one hour drive back to the ship. The rain and wind started just a few minutes after we boarded the bus. We arrived back at the port about 2230 and after clearing Russian immigration were greeted with a banner held by 8 crew members saying “Welcome Home”, and then offered hot chocolate with Bailey’s after we cleared security on board. The biggest surprise were the snack plates waiting in our suite, with small sandwiches, cookies, fruit and chocolates.
June 14, 2017 – St. Petersburg
Morning arrived all too soon and after breakfast in our suite we headed for the bus, after clearing Russian immigration again. No new stamps, just a look to see if we were on an organized tour. Our destination was the Romanov palace called Peterhof, about one hour drive away on the Gulf of Finland. We once again had early entry before the crowds, and after once again donning booties visited a number of rooms restored after Nazi shelling heavily damaged Peterhof during the war. Many of the artifacts were removed before the shelling and either buried in secret locations or transported east of the Ural’s for safekeeping. What could not be removed was either destroyed or looted during the time Germany occupied the area. The restoration was done using the same materials, tools and techniques as in the original construction and was very beautiful. After touring the palace itself we headed for the gardens, some 4500 acres of 150 fountains and gardens, both formal and wild. The view from the canal leading to the sea reminded one of Versailles, only more spectacular with all the fountains in operation.
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| Part of gardens at Peterhof Palace |
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| Fountains at Peterhof |
Returning to the city for lunch at “Almond” restaurant we then proceeded to the Faberge Museum and looked at the collection of Imperial Eggs and other Faberge creations. We also looked at similar enameled work by other Russian jewelers. Following that visit we returned to the ship under sunny skies for a relaxing evening on board Seabourn Quest.
June 15, 2017 – St. Petersburg
We spent the day aboard getting our luggage ready for the next phase of our journey. Without going on an organized tour we could not explore ashore, but we did not desire that anyway, since the ship is moored far from the city. The skies cleared and the temperature climbed into the 70’s, a welcome change from the cool, wet weather of the last few days.
The ship held an “epicurean event” on the pool deck as we departed, with lots of caviar and other gourmet treats as we sailed away from Russia. On the way out we passed a large Russian naval base guarding the approaches to St. Petersburg, passing through a narrow entrance guarded by fortifications on both sides. The only naval ship of note was a submarine flying the Russian St. Andrews Cross flag, so it is apparently still in commission.
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| Hydrofoil on way to Peterhof |
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| Russian Submarine as we left St. Petersburg |
June 16, 2017 – Helsinki, Finland
After transiting some narrow passages, the Seabourn Quest docked near the old town shortly after 0700. The weather was nice enough to eat breakfast outside on the aft deck. We had arranged a “Introduction to Helsinki” tour after Patrick’s kayaking excursion was cancelled due to lack of participants (he was the only one who signed up). After the tour which included the Rock Church and the Sibelius Monument, Patrick walked around the old harbor and looked at the many icebreakers moored close to the Quest. The Baltic is now mostly ice free in the winter so they get little use.
The Quest departed at 1400 and headed back through the scenic archipelago to the Baltic Sea and set a course for Stockholm, where we will dis-embark the Seabourn Quest after 21 nights aboard.
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| Sibelius Monument – Helsinki |
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| Rock Church – Helsinki |
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| Rock Church – 2 |
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| Lutheran Cathedral and main square |
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| Street Food – Helsinki |
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| Farmer’s Market |
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| Rugs Drying in the sun |
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| Life Boat along esplanade |
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| Icebreakers without much to due because of climate change |
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| Leaving Helsinki through narrow passages |
June 17, 2017 – Stockholm
The approach to Stockholm was obscured by dense fog. We could barely see the small islands lining the channel on either side of the ship. The foghorn sounded every two minutes right up until we were backing into the slip at the cargo terminal some 6 miles from downtown.
We had ordered breakfast in the room, and it arrived early, at 0615. The Seabourn Quest actually docked at 0700 and by 0715 the first guests were leaving the ship for the last time. Our transportation to town was set for 0900, so after a final cup of coffee in the main dining room we headed down the gangway at 0830.
The rooms were not ready at the Sheraton Hotel on the harbor in Stockholm, so we stored our bags and headed out sightseeing. We took a harbor tour “Under the Bridges” in sunny warm weather. The tour included passage though a set of locks into the freshwater lake that is part of the city which is a marine playground with beaches, boats, commercial traffic and apparently no speed or wake limits. The locks were almost the best part of the tour as we watched some boats get sideways. Most boats just hold on to lines along the side and with rafting they sometimes can not hold on and the fun begins. The attendants there only collect the tolls for using the locks. Just as in Seattle, there is a bridge just outside the locks which must be raised for sailboats and commercial traffic, adding to the complexity.
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| Gamla Stan and Palace |
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| Modern Functionalism Architecture and old liveaboard boats |
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| Main street Gamla Stan |
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| Inside the Vasa Museum |
By the time the 2 ½ hour tour was finished our room was ready at the hotel. Miriam rested and Patrick headed on foot to the Vasa Museum, about 2 ½ miles from the hotel. A detour around the island of Gamla Stan, just across from the hotel, was interesting, but on a sunny Saturday was packed with tourists. The Vasa museum was also interesting, but dimly lit for preservation reasons, so photos were hard due to both the dim lighting and the sheer size of the Vasa inside the building. The Vasa is basically the same length as HMS Victory in Portsmouth, but narrower. The narrow beam and insufficient ballast are believed to be the primary technical reasons for the capsizing just 20 minutes into her maiden voyage. The builders knew the ship was “tender”, but no one was willing to tell the Swedish King of the risks.
We have an early train to Gothenburg in the morning, so dinner happened at the hotel. The dinner included an unusual presentation of pickled herring, which actually tasted very good. On the other hand, the souls vide beef presentation was not, so we asked to have it put on the grill for a bit, which made it OK.
June 18, 2017 – enroute Denmark via Gothenburg
Stockholm central station is only 2 blocks from the hotel, so getting there in time for an 0810 train was easy. The trains are modern, have wi-fi and to our surprise our ticket included both breakfast and lunch, but so close together we were still full from the first meal when the second was delivered.
The train arrived on time and the taxi ride to the ferry terminal only took a few minutes at a cost of 200 Swedish Krona, about $20 USD. We arrived so early we were the only people in the terminal for some time. Large glass walls on the seaward side of the terminal provided good views of the many pleasure craft and tour boats going in and out of Gothenburg harbor. By one hour before departure the large lounge was packed with foot passengers and luggage heading to Denmark.
We boarded the Stena Jutlandica on time for the 3 ½ hour transit of the Kattegat to Fredrikshavn in Denmark. The route winds its way through the Goteburg Archipelago filled with boats under sail and power and some very large marinas. The topography really reminds us of the San Juans. Leaving the Archipelago the ferry nosed out into the mild seas of the Kattegat.
Arriving on schedule at Fredrikshavn we joined the throngs of other foot passengers disembarking the Stena Jutlandica. There is a long covered walkway leading out of the ferry terminal area and crossing the main road, with escalators and elevators at the end to get back down the street level. The car rental agency was one block away, but closed! Several phone calls and 30 minutes later we found that the keys were at the concierge desk in the Hotel Jutlandica, right at the base of the elevator.
A few minutes later we were in the car and headed for the beach cottage in Hou, where Ted and Lisa Marx had a light meal waiting for us.
June 19, 2017 – Hou, Denmark
After a continental breakfast Patrick and Ted began assembling the 10 by 5 meter tent which was last used at Lisa’s birthday party which we attended in 2013. That project took until noon, but fortunately the wind held off until after the roof of the tent was on. We all went to the harbor in Hou for Danish hotdogs for lunch and then relaxed under the tent playing Mexican Train. Dinner was at a shoreside restaurant in Hals where we had Wienerschnitsel with fresh peas and roasted potatoes in servings so large we each only ate half and took the rest back to the cabin for lunch the next day.
The evening ended with another marathon Mexican Train match.
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| Lisa Marx’s Cabin |
June 20, 2017 – Hou, Denmark
After a continental breakfast in the sun facing the Kattegat we headed into the local fish market, which was unfortunately closed on Tuesdays. Back in the car we headed for Voersgaard Castle, built in 1523, not far from the town of Saeby. We had driven by the castle, which is believed to be haunted, in 2013, but it was too early in the day and was closed. It seems every castle open to tourists in Denmark claims to be haunted, probably just to attract tourists. Today it was open, and several tour buses were in the lot. Workmen were building sets for the upcoming Medieval Fair in July, where everyone wears period costumes.
Returning back to Hou, we looked for items for dinner, which was to be an outdoor event with a number of other attendees, both relatives and friends of Ted and Lisa. We ended up deciding on pizzas and shrimp salad. The wind had picked up again, so Ted and Patrick added several of the side walls to the tent to provide a windbreak, as well as additional lines and stakes to combat the wind.
The evening was very enjoyable as we shared martinis by Patrick, the salad by Ted and the pizza by the local pizza joint.
June 21, 2017 – Hou, Denmark
After breakfast in the sun , we headed to Hou to buy fresh fish for dinner. The fish market had a wide variety of fish, some still moving around. Lisa picked Plaice, which is reputed to be better than Dover Sole, as well as some peel and eat shrimp, We then went to Hals, where we were pleasantly surprised by a large flea market. We found some gifts for Ted and Lisa and also for our upcoming lunch hosts, Jette and Mogens Hertoft. They live next door to Ted and Lisa and have a large house and extensive gardens. Lunch was Smorrebrod, aquavit, beer and carrot cake for dessert. Lunch finished about 1530 and then the neighbors on the other side showed up for a visit.
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| Our smorrebrod lunch by Jette |
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| Enjoying lunch at the Hertoft gazebo |
Dinner was finally cooked by Lisa near 2000, with the fresh Plaice pan fried, boiled potatoes and fresh peas. After dinner we started the final game of Mexican Train.
June 22, 2017 – Enroute Copenhagen
The night was all too short, since the game finished after 0100. After a quick breakfast we headed out in the rain and began the drive to Copenhagen. We took two ferries, one a high speed SWATH vessel that travelled at 40 knots and carried several hundred cars and trucks. The ferries cut 150 kilometers from the trip and we arrived at the airport to drop off the rental car shortly after 1500. We took a taxi back to the city to 71 Nyhavn Hotel for the evening and enjoyed a Thai style tasting menu dinner at “SEA” restaurant on the waterfront in Nyhavn.
June 23, 2017 – Enroute Bellevue
After a typical Scandinavian buffet breakfast at the hotel we took our pre-arranged transportation to the Copenhagen Airport. It is under massive renovation and can be confusing on where to go. After checking in we were able to use “fast track” through security. Inside security was a massive shopping arcade which one had to walk through to get to immigration control for the flight to Heathrow. British Airways has a new lounge next to the departure gate which we were able to use.
The flight appeared to be fully booked and the line to board was unusually long as they were trying to convince many passengers to check their carry-on bags to reduce the crowding and delays in trying to find space for the bags. Even in business we had to search for a spot several rows back to place our bags. There was a meal service even on the 1 ½ hour flight, consisting of a cold chicken, watercress and potato salad.
Arriving at Heathrow, we were bused to the main terminal and after clearing security proceeded to the BA Concorde Lounge, where we relaxed until our flight was called at 1500. While in the lounge we had some salt beef sandwiches and rose champagne while we waited. Our flight left from Satellite C, which meant an additional delay to ride the underground train to the boarding gate. The flight was just boarding, so we were one of the first passengers on board. After a glass of champagne we changed into our sleep suits and relaxed for the next 9 hours as the British Airways 747 flew over the middle of Greenland, Baffin Island, Northern Canada and on to Seattle.
So ends the European 2017 Adventure.
North Cape Cruise Post 2
Blog Post 2 – No photos until we get higher bandwidth internet connections
May 26, 2017 – Copenhagen
The parties continued quayside until the sun began to come up, and the noise came right in the open windows where we were trying to get some cooler air. By the time the parties ended the sun was now coming in the window and lighting up the room. We are as far north already as Ketchikan, so the long days are no surprise. Our solution was to close the drapes and turn on the fan. Sleep still mostly eluded us, so about 0630 we freshened up and headed downstairs for an expansive breakfast buffet. The pickled herring was delicious!
Most stores do not open until 1000, but we headed out at 0900 anyway and searched for a spare battery for one of the Nikon cameras and a memory storage device for the iPads, knowing we would be taking lots of photos.
The pedestrian shopping street “Stroget” stretches for many blocks with every type of store imaginable. It is purportedly the longest pedestrian street in Europe. We decided there are no direct routes anywhere in Copenhagen, with the many canals which intersect the city, and the heritage of the old buildings which seem to be constructed in haphazard locations long before modern city planning. Nonetheless, we found both the batteries and the memory devices. Prices are much higher than in the USA, especially for LI-ion batteries which are taxed at a high rate.
Returning to the hotel we sat outdoors on the quay and enjoyed both the sun and delicious fresh asparagus salads before returning to the room for a much needed nap.
After another walk in the afternoon down as far as Vor Frelsers Kirkland (Our Saviors Church), with a unique spiral staircase around the outside of the campanile. The line to climb the staircase was very long so Patrick decided to pass on the opportunity. Returning to the hotel, we listened out the room window as a concert began across the quay. It will be another noisy night.
May 27, 2017 – Embarkation and Departure
The noise overnight was not too bad, perhaps because we were so tired. Jet lag is catching up to both of us. The weather continues to be nice, with sunny skies and temperatures in the 70’s. We enjoyed another breakfast buffet and then a walk to stretch the legs before the driver picks us up at 1130. The tour busses were already out in force, with groups of people crowding around the popular scenic stops. There are 6 cruise ships tied up just north of the hotel, ranging from huge to a 328 foot ship. The Seabourn Quest looks tiny out at the end of Ocean Quay behind two large ships.
The check-in formalities were quick and we were able to board Seabourn Quest about 1230. The staterooms would not be ready until 1400, so we sat on the pool deck and enjoyed lunch with several other guests. Promptly at 1400 the announcement that the staterooms were ready was made. Arriving at suite 611, our home for the next three weeks, the stewardess, Natalya was waiting with champagne and canapés. Our luggage was already in the suite so we spent some time unpacking before attending the required safety briefing at our emergency gathering spot in the restaurant on Deck 4. After the safety briefing we headed back to the pool deck for the sail-away celebration.
Departure was delayed somewhat due to the number of cruise ships all scheduled to depart at the same time and the late arrival of guests from the massive British Airways computer system failure at Heathrow. Finally, at 1745 the ship’s horn blew announcing our departure and the ship joined the parade headed north towards our first destination, Flam Norway.
May 28, At Sea
The weather on our first day at sea was a sharp contrast to the sunny weather in Copenhagen. The temperature had dropped by 20 degrees and there was occasional rain and fog thick enough for the ship’s foghorn to sound.
We attended three of the “conversations” or lectures that Seabourn has on sea days. The evening was the first of three formal nights and also the Captain’s Gala reception. After the reception we tried “The Grill”, a new dining venue with Thomas Keller dishes in a classic chophouse atmosphere.
May 29 – Flam, Norway
Sometime during the night the ship entered Sognefjord, one of the longest and deepest fjords in the world. We docked at Flam shortly before 0800. Flam has expanded somewhat since the first time we were here and the number of tourists in addition to the ship guests was amazing. We had separate shore excursions here, with Miriam doing a “Mountains and Waterfalls” guided bus tour to some of the other scenic areas, and Patrick venturing out in a Kayak for the first time in Norway. There was not a lot of wildlife other than herds of goats and some birds, but plenty of waterfalls cascading down the steep rock walls of the Aurlandfjord, the final stretch of Sognefjord.
Seabourn Quest backed away from the pier at 1700 and headed back down the fjord for the 280 nautical mile voyage to our next destination.
May 30 – Aalesund, Norway
The weather overnight was much rougher out in the North Sea, but smoothed out as we approached Aalesund, arriving at 1000 and docking in the protected inner harbor amidst the Art Nouveau architecture of this town of 48,000. The original town was mostly destroyed by fire in 1904 and the city planners rebuilt with stone and concrete in the art nouveau style for most of the area destroyed by the fire, so the inner city has a very consistent look and feel.
Miriam took a lengthy walking tour exploring the details of the inner city and museums, as well as the quaint inner harbor. Patrick again ventured out in a kayak on a tour across the bay for a picnic on a small island followed by a paddle through the inner harbor.
The ship departed at 2000 and then went in several circles in the bay to re-swing the magnetic compass before the ship headed even further north. The seas increased again overnight as we headed for our next destination Svolvaer, 450 miles away in the Lofoten Islands.
May 31 – At Sea
The weather cooled even more with highs of 39 degrees, NW winds to 35 knots and large swells from the northwest. The ship passed through rain squalls and then sun patches all day. We were able to attend several additional lectures or “Conversations “ on history, marine mammals and the Viking sea migration patterns. Our evening entertainment was provided by Richard Wright, who we may have heard singing in the “Lion King” in London in 1999.
At 2115 the ship’s horn sounded signaling that we had crossed the Arctic Polar Circle. We will be North of the circle for the next few days.
June 1 – Svolvaer, Lofoten Islands
The wind and seas gradually calmed as we approached our anchorage in front of the town of Svolvaer. After a brief delay anchoring the ship the tours began. Miriam is doing a “Lofoten Vikings” cultural tour and Patrick went kayaking along the coastline as part of his tour. In the afternoon we both took part in a limited Zodiac tour up Trollfjord where we met back up with the ship. We did see some white tailed eagles and some trolls on the cliff in Trollfjord, but were a little disappointed that the captain decided to not enter the fjord with the Quest. Although beautiful, the fjord pales in comparison to Princess Louisa Inlet in British Columbia.
June 2 – Tromso
This city of 72,000 is both on Tromso Island and the mainland, connected by a bridge since 1960. There is a charming city center, with an increasing number of new buildings gradually displacing the original buildings built by either the Bergen Trading Company or the Tromso Trading Company. Tromso is also the area where the British RAF finally sank the German battleship Tirpitz after several attempts including mini-submarines. Several movies have been made commemorating those events. Patrick’s afternoon RIB adventure went to the site of the sinking. The RIB trip also went by an island with two musk oxen. Miriam took a tour that included a cable car ride above the city and a tour of the Arctic Cathedral.
June 3 – Honningsvag and North Cape
The weather offshore forced the cancellation of the planned Zodiac tour to the Puffin colonies and a cruise by North Cape. Winds were 25-30 knots, seas to 8 feet and intermittent snow squalls. It was snowing all day, but not hard enough to get any accumulation.
We were rebooked onto a guided bus tour to North Cape. North Cape cleared enough to have decent views, so most of the experience was there, even with the Zodiac trip cancellation. The monument was found to be misplaced when decent surveying systems were invented, since the next point west is actually 1.5 kilometers further north. Nevertheless we reached 71 degrees, 10.21 minutes North Latitude. The ship will actually go a little further north when we depart Honningsvag. Before departure we had a caviar, vodka, gravlax and aquavit celebration.
Norwegian North Cape Cruise
North Cape and St. Petersburg Cruise
May/June 2017
May 24, Departure Day from Bellevue
Murphy was alive and working as we prepared to depart Bellevue via British Airways Flight 49. After a visit to Patrick’s Mom, who goes in for a total hip replacement on the morning of the 25th, final preparations for departure proceeded, including mowing the lawn, set the sprinkler timers and finalizing the luggage packing.
We are taking Seabourn Cruise for a 21 day trip along the west coast of Norway above the Arctic Circle, and then back into the Baltic to visit St. Petersburg, Tallin, Helsinki and Stockholm before traveling back to Denmark for several days. We are staying with Ted & Lisa Marx near Hou, and then finishing up back in Copenhagen. Our ship is the Seabourn Quest, the same ship as our Antarctica trip. We are going to be in suite 611 for this trip.
PSE is replacing the underground wiring in our neighborhood so access can be tricky and sometimes delayed. The Shuttle Express driver arrived on time, however, but then told us about the numerous accidents and traffic jams between our house and all possible routes to the airport.
After a wild, and sometimes scary ride with the aggressive driver in heavy traffic, we arrived at the airport and were able to upgrade from business to first class. British Airways does not have TSA pre-check, so we had to undergo the standard security screening, including the full body x-rays, physical pat-downs and an extensive search of Miriam’s carry-on luggage. Something, or a combination of items triggered the explosive detectors. Even her shoes and iphone tested positive, so it may have been a faulty detector. The TSA supervisor gave Miriam some packing suggestions to avoid a problem in the future.
We finally made it to the BA lounge and Miriam repacked her carry-on to avoid a similar delay when arriving at Heathrow and transferring to the flight to Copenhagen.
After a glass of Shiraz, Murphy disappeared for a while and relaxation and anticipation of the upcoming month in Europe began.
What initially looked to be a late departure, due to the inbound aircraft arriving nearly two hours late, turned into an on-time departure. Boarding the plane, we were escorted to our seats and offered sleep suits for the flight. We both changed before departure. Precisely at 1915 the 747-400 backed away from the gate and we took off. There was moderate turbulence for the first hour, which made it hard to keep the rose champagne in the glasses, but that was the only minor issue as we shared dinner in one of our suites on board. BA has modified the interiors somewhat and there is less shoulder room for the guest than in the past. After a leisurely dinner we stretched out on the lay-flat beds for a few hours of sleep before breakfast was served. As we prepared for arrival, the cabin crew presented us with a box of chocolates and a signed menu to celebrate our upcoming 45th wedding anniversary.
Enjoying appetizers on the way to London
May 25, 2017
The flight landed a little late, and we were taken by bus to bustling Terminal 5 where we underwent additional security screening before heading to the BA lounge. This time Miriam’s luggage did not trigger any alarms, even though they did test her bag of liquids for explosives.
We only had about 15 minutes in the lounge before we headed for the connecting flight gate, which was at the opposite end of the sprawling Terminal 5 from the lounge. The flight was full, the seats cramped and narrow, but at least we had an empty seat between us in the so-called business class. The seat pitch was so tight that even Patrick’s knees touched the seat in front of him, and the gentleman behind Patrick had his knees pressing into the seat back the entire flight.
The flight departed on time and then spent 25 minutes waiting for a takeoff slot. A light snack was served to pass the time on the 90 minute flight to Copenhagen. The service on board made up for the cramped seating and even with the departure delay we arrived slightly ahead of schedule.
Completing immigration formalities, which were quick, we headed to baggage claim where the wait for bags was very short. Heading out the exit we met our driver who drove us through light traffic to the Admiral Hotel, right on the harbor. We have stayed at the Admiral before, and it is a converted and restored grainery warehouse of brick and massive wood beams in the rooms, built in 1797.
Before leaving Bellevue we signed up for a “Day Pass” from AT&T, which is a good deal for international travel, so after phone calls to Bellevue we found that Patrick’s Mom’s hip surgery went well and we would be able to call tomorrow.
Stopping briefly in the room, we headed out and walked along the quay to the “Little Mermaid” sculpture, since the early evening light would be good for photos. The light was good for photos, and also good at the largest monument in Copenhagen, the Gefionspringvandet, named after the goddess Gefion, who with her oxen plows Zealand out of Sweden. By the time we returned to the hotel at 2000, the sun had passed below the horizon.
Little Mermaid at Langelinie
The Gefionspringvandet sculpture
Returning to the hotel we decided to eat at “SALT” restaurant in the hotel and enjoyed a four course small plate offering which included poached white asparagus, baked lemon sole, salted melon and burrito and a grilled Iberico pork, all with interesting seasonings. By now it was after 2200, but still evening twilight. Patrick took a stroll to Nyhaven to locate our hotel when we return in late June. There were still crowds eating outside at the many restaurants lining the harbor at Nyhaven, and with the long days and a holiday, the voices talking outside our hotel window continued until 0230. There is no air conditioning at the hotel, but fans are provided and the windows open out facing the harbor.
The Admiral Hotel
Nyhaven at night
South to Anacortes
July 22, 2016 – Wrangell
After the tour of the Anan Wildlife Observatory we relaxed at the dock in the rain in Wrangell.
July 23, 2016 – Wrangell
Another day of rain in Wrangell.
July 24, 2016 – Wrangell to Santa Anna Inlet
Departing from Wrangell in the rain at 1015 for the final time in 2016 we headed on a different route to Santa Anna Inlet. There was a gill net opening in Zimovia Strait and rather than dodge the nets we headed down Eastern Channel which is a longer route, but scenic. Cruising by Anan Bay we confirmed with the depth sounder that the bay provides only marginal holding, shelving steeply into deep water without much swinging room.
Entering the nearly empty Santa Anna Inlet, we anchored Spirit at 1650. By evening there were seven vessels anchored, including some commercial fishing boats. The horseflies were abundant, the rain had stopped and we enjoyed the quiet evening.
July 25, 2016 – Santa Anna Inlet to Ketchikan
Spirit was the last vessel to leave Santa Anna Inlet at 0745 with overcast skies and calm winds. Stopping to fish near Meyers Chuck we landed three pink salmon and lost three more. Proceeding south in Clarence Strait to Tongass Narrows we called the Ketchikan Harbormaster for a berth assignment. We were given the last available berth for our size vessel at Bar Harbor. The fishing fleet was in and there was not enough room for everyone, with many vessels anchored over Pennock Reef and rafted three deep at City Floats.
We treated ourselves to dinner at the Bar Harbor Restaurant, but it was not the best meal we have had. Usually this is a great place to eat, but we must have hit an off-night in the kitchen.
July 26, 2016 – Ketchikan
Patrick spent the day looking for a replacement circulating fan for the galley refrigerator, but no luck finding 24 volt components in Ketchikan. Miriam walked the 1.5 miles into downtown for some final shopping.
July 27, 2016 – Ketchikan to Foggy Bay
Spirit departed Bar Harbor in the rain at 0632, stopping at Petromarine for fuel before leaving Ketchikan for the last time in 2016. We fished at Mountain Point, but only pinks were taking the bait, so after landing two we continued south down Revillagigedo Channel. Stopping at Mary Island we anchored in 200 feet of water and fished for halibut, but no luck.
Pulling the anchor, we continued into Foggy Bay and anchored Spirit at 1650 under partly sunny skies. By dusk there were seven vessels anchored, everyone heading south.
July 28, 2016 – Foggy Bay to Prince Rupert
Mist and light rain greeted us as we departed Foggy Bay at 0505, the last boat to leave. The gillnetters were out in force all the way to Cape Fox, and with the low visibility, down to 1/4 mile at times, we just headed out 2 miles from the shoreline and avoided all of them. Other pleasure craft were being called on the radio by the fishermen, asking them to move further offshore.
The fog and mist meant there was no wind chop in Dixon, but there was a 4-6 foot swell on our beam as we crossed, so we were glad we had stabilizers. By 0755 we crossed the USA/Canada boundary and when we had cell phone coverage from Prince Rupert called in for NEXUS clearance.
The visibility continued to improve as we headed through Venn Passage into Prince Rupert Harbor. After stopping briefly at the customs/lightering dock we headed to our reserved slip at the new Cow Bay Marina. The docks are still subject to the wakes and afternoon winds, but better than the nearby Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club (PRRYC). Contrary to the latest Waggoner Guide, Cow Bay Marina is not yet a Canada Customs Port of Entry like PRRYC. We also set our clocks ahead one hour to get back on Pacific Daylight Time.
Dinner was at the Cow Bay Café, with delicious food, good service and a great view.
July 29, 2016 – Prince Rupert
After a resupply run to Safeway for fresh produce we caught the bus to Port Edwards and visited the North Pacific Cannery, now a National Historic Site in Canada. The cannery is located on the banks of the Skeena River. The cannery was in operation until 1981 and has been partially preserved to show the worker housing and equipment used in the past. This cannery was one of 20 just in this area. The machinery was nearly identical to the machinery we visited at the Icy Strait Point cannery near Hoonah in June.
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| Add caption |
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| Remains of worker housing |
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| Inside the net house |
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| Canning Line |
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| Pressure Cookers |
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| Some of the local brands of salmon |
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| Rusting cart |
July 30, 2016 – Prince Rupert to Lowe Inlet
Leaving Cow Bay Marina at 0725 we enjoyed mostly sunny skies as Spirit continued south down Grenville Channel, riding a favorable current most of the way, especially as we picked up the ebb near Klewnuggit Inlet. At 1445 the anchor was set in Nettle Basin, Lowe Inlet. We were initially the only boat, but by nightfall there were five others anchored. The winds were gusty in Nettle basin, peaking at 27 knots and continuing late into the evening.
We tried fishing, but with no luck. The fish are later this year and very few were jumping at the base of Verney Falls. There were no bears fishing at the falls either.
July 31, 2016 – Lowe Inlet to Bottleneck Inlet
When we departed at 0630, all the other vessels had already departed. We enjoyed a boost from the ebb tide as we continued down Grenville Channel past Hartley Bay and entered Princess Royal Channel. The flood tide gave us a boost until near Butedale and then the ebb tide boosted us further south through Heikish Narrows and into Finlayson Channel. The afternoon westerly winds greeted us there, with sustained winds to 27 knots and three foot seas.
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| Butedale – the docks are better now |
Making the turn into Bottleneck Inlet we retrieved the tender and anchored in 35 feet of water under sunny skies at 1600 after 75 miles of cruising. There was no wind in the inlet and the sunny skies were welcome.
August 1, 2016 – Bottleneck Inlet to Shearwater
In what is becoming a pattern, when we departed, all the other vessels had left. However, the entrance is shallow and we wanted to wait for a rising tide to leave. The minimum depth we saw with the tide at +8 feet was less than 6 feet under the keel, so at a zero tide we would have been trapped in the inlet.
Finlayson Channel was calm, the sun was out, so we continued out into Milbanke Sound, past Ivory Point Light and into Seaforth Channel. Stopping for an hour to fish unsuccessfully at Idol Point we then headed into Shearwater and anchored at 1540 outside the breakwater with numerous other pleasure craft.
The Selene 50 “Seeker” was at Shearwater and we shared dinner on board Seeker with Mike and Susie Miner and Mike’s brother and sister-in-law. Patrick prepared halibut with the white miso paste glaze once again.
August 2, 2016 – Shearwater
With no pressing schedule we spent the day at anchor doing maintenance on Spirit.
August 3, 2016 – Shearwater to Pruth Bay
At 0830 we pulled the anchor from the mud in Klicksaotl Harbor and headed back out Seaforth Channel, taking a right turn up Return Channel and then down Johnson Channel, investigating potential anchorages for future trips.
Exiting into Fisher Channel we bypassed Ocean Falls and Codville Lagoon. Codville Lagoon showed numerous AIS targets and the anchorage is only marginal if the back basin is full. Continuing down Fisher Channel to Fitz Hugh Sound the afternoon westerlies began to blow, so we ducked behind Nalau Island down Ward Channel, across Hakai Pass and anchored in Pruth Bay, joining 6-7 other boats.
Checking the weather reports on the free wifi in Pruth Bay we decided to spend at least one extra day at anchor.
August 4, 2016 – Pruth Bay
Trying our luck fishing on the east side of Calvert Island in the Grady White for a while, we gave up after numerous rockfish and 2 undersize Coho Salmon. The afternoon wind picked up as we headed back, making for a bouncy ride in the 2 foot seas. The wind calmed down after sundown.
August 5, 2016 – Pruth Bay to Allison Harbour
The weather report was marginal, and the seas were not expected to subside at Cape Caution until Sunday, so at 0615 we departed to cross before the seas increased more. Clearing the tip of Calvert Island, the swells increased to 7-12 feet on our beam at a 7 second period as we passed Egg Island. Turning at Cape Caution at 1050 we then encountered sloppy seas from the combination of swells and ebb outfall from Slingsby Channel, since we were there one hour before slack water. The sloppy seas persisted for about three miles and then became just quartering swells once outside the influence of Slingsby Channel.
We entered an empty Allison Harbour and anchored in 30 feet of water at 1305, selecting a spot clear of the numerous commercial crab pots littering the anchorage. Even though the harbor is well protected, the afternoon westerlies wrap around and blow straight into the anchorage. The same westerlies had grown the wave height at the West Sea Otter buoy to 8-16 feet by 1400, so we were glad we got across early in the afternoon.
By 1800 rain began to fall, heavy at times, but with no wind.
August 6, 2016 Allison Harbour to Sullivan Bay
The rain from the evening before had been replaced by a thick blanket of fog swirling in from the inlet entrance. Nonetheless we pulled the anchor from the sticky and stinky mud in Allison Harbour at 0820 and ventured out into Ripple Passage, the main channel. The fog alternated between dense and 1-2 mile visibility until about 1100 as we headed up Wells Passage towards Sullivan Bay. We arrived as part of a parade of boats either leaving or arriving at the floating community. By 1345 our lines were set and power was connected.
The resort has a Happy Hour in the dock shelter every day at 1700 where you bring an appetizer to share and your own drinks. Earlier in the afternoon we had introduced ourselves to the owners of the Sailing Vessel Anna Caroline, who we had seen off and on all the way from Wrangell. They had docked just ahead of us. Finding out they had a defective propane regulator, Patrick gave them a spare from Spirit so they could operate their stove. The vessel carries a Dutch flag and the couple live aboard and had come around Cape Horn and Patagonia earlier in the year, about the same time we were in Antarctica. They then went to Sitka via Easter Island, the Marquesa’s, and Hawaii, and were on their way back to French Polynesia, New Zealand, Australia and Indonesia.
During our conversations we asked if they knew the red sailboat we had seen in Antarctica, and they knew both the boat and the owner. Conversation continued late into the night as we discovered just how small the world is, with many similar experiences.
We had a thunderstorm, lightning and heavy rain to keep us occupied as well.
August 7, 2016 – Sullivan Bay to Mound Island
At 1000 we joined the parade of boats departing Sullivan Bay and headed to Cullen Harbour. Along the way we were escorted by a pod of Pacific Whiteside Dolphins, many riding the wake alongside the stern. They stayed with us for nearly one hour. Anchoring in Cullen Harbour, finding an open space among the six other boats already there, we did not like the set of the anchor so pulled it back up and headed to Mound Island where we anchored in 50 feet of water over a mud bottom with excellent holding. We joined 10 other boats, but the anchorage can hold many more. Mound Island and Cullen Harbour are both the same distance from our destination, Port McNeill in the morning.
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| Pacific Whiteside Dolphins in our wake |
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| Another wakerider |
August 8, 2016 – Mound Island to Port McNeill
Fog was drifting in and out of the anchorage as we departed shortly after 0800. Exiting White Beach Passage into a dense fog bank we had to alter course to avoid a cruise ship entering Blackfish Sound. As the fog layer shifted it was eerie to see just the top of the ship approaching with the lower half obscured. The fog layer finally lifted entirely as we approached Malcom Island. We were tied up to the dock at North Island Marina before 1100. Patrick procured a new propane regulator and then changed the generator oil and filter, the third change of the trip.
Meeting friends on “Rendezvous” and “Daybreak”, we all gathered for dinner at the Northern Lights Restaurant after appetizers on board Spirit.
August 9, 2016 – Port McNeill
Rendezvous and Daybreak departed early to head south and we elected to stay in Port McNeill. Patrick changed the zincs on the main engine and we went shopping in town.
August 10, 2019 – Port McNeill
Another day in Port McNeill. Several friends arrived and we had cocktails on “Yachette” and then after a not so memorable dinner ashore, gathered on “Legasea” for the evening with conversation that went until late into the evening as we listened to the winds gust to 30 knots under clearing skies.
August 11, 2016 – Port McNeill to Kwatsi Bay
The winds were calm, with sunny skies, as we departed Port McNeill at 0820. Spirit ran into fog as we approached Donegal Head on Malcom Island and with visibility less than ¼ mile we carefully headed to Arrow Passage. The fog lifted as we entered Arrow Passage, passing Echo Bay and finally docking at Kwatsi Bay at 1400, joining 10 other boats. Happy hour on the dock was enjoyable, catching up with old cruising friends as we snacked on the appetizers everyone had provided.
August 12, 2016 – Kwatsi Bay to Sullivan Bay
Spirit departed Kwatsi Bay at 1050 for the short 25 nautical mile trip back to Sullivan Bay. Arriving at 1405 we confirmed our reservation for the prime rib dinner that evening. Mike and Lisa Haistings from Legasea arrived and we shared a table for an excellent prime rib dinner. Rain was heavy overnight.
August 13, 2016 – Sullivan Bay to Jennis Bay
We cast off the lines at 1020 to make slack water at Stuart Narrows and were tied up at Jennis Bay marina at 1140 after a short 9 nautical mile trip. The afternoon westerlies came up, so the happy hour was moved to one of the buildings.
August 14, 2016 – Jennis Bay to Napier Bay
Timing our departure for slack water at Stuart Narrows, we reluctantly cast off the lines and headed the 10.5 nautical miles to Napier Bay under sunny skies. Anchoring at 1300 with several other vessels in the bay we prepared the Grady White for fishing and headed out to James Point. We returned with one 12 pound wild Coho salmon at 1700.
August 15, 2016 – Napier Bay
After sleeping in and missing the slack water at James Point, we finally left at 0915 and returned at 1200 with a nice 15 pound wild Coho salmon. After preparing it for the freezer and having lunch we headed back out at 1400, returning at 1530 with our second Coho, this time another 12-pound fish, our limit for the day. We have only one more Coho we can catch in BC in 2016, since the daily limit is one wild fish and the possession limit is 2 wild fish. By evening Napier Bay was once again filled with anchored boats.
August 16, 2016 – Napier Bay to Port McNeill
We pulled the anchor from the mud in Napier Bay at 0710 and headed to James Point to fish on the way to Port McNeill. After dragging the lines for more than one hour with only a few nibbles, we retrieved all the gear and headed for Port McNeill, arriving at 1200. North Island Marina was full of familiar boats, with almost everyone headed South. We had intended to go to the highly recommended Cluxewe Waterfront Bistro, but the one day a week they close is Tuesday.
The alternative was the sushi restaurant, which turned out to be very good.
August 17, 2016 – Port McNeill
We did our final BC reprovisioning for the season and tried the Cluxewe Waterfront Bistro for dinner. The restaurant is located about 15 minutes away by car at a campground overlooking Broughton Straits and has tremendous views. The food was very good.
August 18, 2016 – Port McNeill to Port Harvey
Departing Port McNeill for the last time in 2016 at 0905 we headed down Johnstone Strait in a mixture of sun and fog, but calm seas. By 1350 the engine was off in Port Harvey, with warm, sunny, but breezy weather. George and Gail at Port Harvey Marine Resort have been working hard to recover from the barge sinking last year and have already partially rebuilt a new “Red Shoe” restaurant building on the barge.
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| New Red Shoe Restaurant taking shape |
In the meantime, the new float with the tent is a great venue, lots of room for everyone for appetizers at happy hour. George has the salvaged pizza oven from the old restaurant set up in one corner and pizzas are made to order in the evening.
August 19, 2016 – Port Harvey
Most of the boats had left by 0700 to make slack tide at either Whirlpool Rapids or Seymour Narrows. By 0830 only one other boat was at the dock with us, in addition to one anchored in the bay. We enjoyed the warm cinnamon rolls George and Gail bake every day to order and just spent the day relaxing in the sunshine.
August 20, 2016 – Port Harvey to Thurston Bay
After taking delivery of the cinnamon rolls, we reluctantly cast off the lines from Port Harvey and headed out under low clouds, but with little wind. Negotiating Whirlpool rapids near slack current, we headed down Chancellor Channel under gusty winds, which calmed as we approached Greene Point Rapids. Spirit got a generous boost from the flood tide as we headed down Cordero Channel. Shoal Bay was full of boats, so we continued to Thurston Bay and anchored as far behind Block Island as possible, given the number of boats.
The wind gusted to 34 knots overnight, but the anchor was well set.
August 21, 2016 – Thurston Bay to Dent Island
Pulling the anchor at 1030 we proceeded at slow speed the short distance to Dent Rapids. Clearing the rapids about 30 minutes early we were tied to the dock at Dent Island Lodge by 1340, having to wait for other vessels to leave. Today was the “Duck Derby” to raise money for the Gillard Pass hatchery as well as have fun. First the staff rides Canoe Passage on top of large inflatable ducks after getting pledges at an auction and then the small numbered ducks are released with the winner being the first across a line stretched across the passage. We did not win, but along with everyone else enjoyed a great buffet dinner on the outside terrace.
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| Staff riding the ducks in Canoe Passage |
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| Scooping up the winning duck |
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| The docks were full! |
August 22, 2016 – Dent Island
Patrick fished, no luck. The sunny day was a little windy but otherwise pleasant. Dinner was at the “Rapids Grill”, with a multicourse tasting menu.
August 23, 2016 – Dent Island to Rebecca Spit
Departing Dent Island Lodge at 0830 to catch the last of the flood southbound through Gillard Passage and Yuculta Rapids we headed to Rebecca Spit under sunny skies and warm temperatures. The anchor was down by 1140.
August 24, 2016 – Rebecca Spit to Hornby Island
Spirit departed Rebecca Spit at 0805 for the 48 nautical mile run to Tribune Bay on the south side of Hornby Island, a new destination for us. The weather was calm and sunny and we joined nearly 100 other boats of all sizes and types anchored off the beach.
August 25-26, 2016 – Hornby Island to Montague Harbour
Under sunny skies we departed Tribune Bay at 0730 for the 80 mile run to Montague Harbour. We anchored at 1600, joining almost 200 pleasure craft jammed into the calm harbor. With the nice weather we remained at anchor the next day also.
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| Sunset over Montague Harbour |
August 27, 2016 – Montague Harbour to Echo Bay
The sunny skies had been replaced by clouds at we departed at 0925 from Montague Harbour. By 1130 we had crossed into US waters and cleared into the USA with our NEXUS credentials by phone. By 1300 we were anchored in Echo Bay, Sucia Islands after only 26 miles.
August 28, 2016 – Echo Bay to Anacortes
At 0845 we departed Echo Bay for the 22 nautical mile trip to Cap Sante Marina at Anacortes. Our slip was not yet free at Anacortes Marina so we arranged moorage at Cap Sante. After refueling Spirit, we were tied to the transient dock at 1230, having travelled 3100 nautical miles since departing Anacortes April 28.
Anan Wildlife Observatory
July 21 – Anan Wildlife ObservatoryThe weather is predicted to deteriorate over the next few days, so we investigated whether we could do a tour of Anan Wildlife Observatory. Two spaces were available through Alaska Charters and Adventures, so we…
Petersburg, Wrangell and East Baranof Island
June 29, 2016
Slack tide was predicted for 0900, so at 0730, under sunny skies, we pulled the anchor from the mud in Takatz Bay and headed out in Chatham Strait. There we were greeted by dense fog lying against the shore. We made a radar approach to our favorite spot where there was already one charter boat anchored. Moving a short distance away we pulled the Grady White alongside and anchored Spirit in 220 feet of water, Miriam almost instantly hooked into a quillback rockfish and a few minutes later Patrick felt a sharp tug on his line and the line spooled off the reel. After 20 minutes of gaining and losing ground on the line, with the rod bent almost double at times, Patrick brought a nice halibut to the surface. Deciding to keep it, knowing it was near the maximum size we wanted, we harpooned it. The halibut did not like that at all and ran back down, taking the harpoon line right out of Miriam’s hands. After a few more minutes we brought the halibut back to the surface, retrieved the harpoon tether and lashed it to the stern, then putting in a second harpoon for good measure. No sooner did we get the second harpoon dart in the fish the hook came out of the halibut’s lip, so we were very fortunate. Slitting the gills and letting the fish bleed out for a while we finally dragged the halibut on board and measured it at 58 inches. The tables indicate that is about a 90 pound halibut.
Deciding we had no freezer space for another fish, we pulled the anchor shortly after 1000 and headed across Chatham Strait towards Petersburg. Stopping at Pinta Rocks we investigated a possible anchorage, but decided that with the prediction of westerly winds and thunderstorms in the afternoon, combined with a hard bottom might provide poor holding for the anchor, we continued to Portage Bay, a familiar stop. We had several hours to get there, so the halibut was fileted and packaged, taking all the rest of our freezer space.July 2, 2016 – Petersburg to Wrangell
Portage Bay should really be called Portage River, since the currents the entire length of the long bay run at up to two knots. Fortunately, the bottom has very good holding and setting the anchor is easy. We anchored Spirit at 1745 as light rain began.
June 30, 2016
Realizing we could make morning slack current at North Wrangell Narrows, we departed Portage Bay under cloudy skies with some rain showers at 0745 and headed to Petersburg where we hope to offload our freezers into Petersburg Community Cold Storage, as we did last year. They will hold the fish until we return to Anacortes and then ship by Alaska Air to Seattle.
Naturally, we arrived in a rain storm, which only got worse later in the afternoon as Patrick walked to the Cummins engine dealer for a new coalescing filter on the Walker Airsep. No filters were available in Petersburg, so a call to Seattle got one on the way via priority mail from Fisheries Supply.
The rain continued on and off the rest of the day as we arranged for fish storage, boxes and shipping.
July 1, 2016
Rain, heavy at times, as the fish was delivered to the cold storage facility. The forecast is rain for the next week, but fortunately little wind. We intended to have pizza for dinner, but Papa Bear’s pizza was closed for the next 4 days, so we cooked a pan of lasagna and shared it with Roger and Arlene from the Krogen 55 Kama Hele Kai.
July 2, 2016 – Petersburg to Wrangell
Departing Petersburg’s North Harbor at 1100 we headed south for the 40 nautical mile trip to Wrangell. No matter when you leave, you will have adverse currents part of the way. Minimizing the currents in Wrangell Narrows means fighting the ebb tide from the south entrance to the narrows the 20 nautical miles to Wrangell. We finally arrived at 1645 and took the next to last spot in Heritage Harbor.
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| Purse Seine Nets – Wrangell |
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| Seiner in Wrangell Narrows working nets |
July 3, 2016 – Wrangell
The morning was spent changing the generator oil and filter at 2538 hours, then halibut fishing in the afternoon. The halibut were good at removing the herring from the hook and leaving the salmon bellies. No halibut chose to hook up. That evening we hosted the crew of Tranquility for dinner, serving a miso glazed halibut with baby bok choy and mushroom risotto.
July 4, 2016 – Wrangell
Celebrated the 4th by going to the parade, then lunch at the Stikine Inn before touring the booths at the street fair. Returning to the Stikine Inn later in the evening with the crew on Tranquility we enjoyed drinks and appetizers before returning to Heritage Basin and taking the tender out in front of Wrangell Harbor for fireworks, which did not start until 1115 PM.
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| Wrangell Parade 1 |
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| Tossing free candy for the kids |
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| The horses were the final part of the parade |
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| Walking back to Heritage Basin with the sunset |
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| Sunset on the 4th |
July 5, 2016 – Wrangell
Patrick fished, with no luck. A few strikes but nothing on board.
July 6, 2016 – Wrangell to Petersburg
Departing Wrangell at 0835 we travelled the 40 nautical miles to Petersburg and entered a harbor with lots of empty slips for the day, due to a purse seiner opening on Thursday. We were assigned stall 536 on D Dock in South Harbor, close to the ramp. After picking up Walker Airsep parts and fresh groceries we had dinner at Papa Bear’s Pizza. We found out that although Petersburg had fireworks on the 4th, the rest of the activities including the parade and carnival were cancelled due to a multiple fatality car accident near South Harbor. We could see the accident site from our slip and the police were still investigating it 2 days later.
July 7, 2016 – Petersburg to Cannery Cove
After fueling the Grady White we left at 0835 to take advantage of the last of the ebb tide going north in Wrangell Narrows and immediately ran into dense fog. With both radars running we headed out at slow speed and had one close encounter with a gillnetter, who guided us around the end of his net. By Cape Strait the fog had lifted and we sighted a number of humpback whales as we set a direct course for Pybus Bay, Cannery Cove.
Entering Pybus Bay we had to slow down and alter course for a pod of Orca crossing our path.
There were already three yachts in Cannery Cove when we arrived, including the 167 foot yacht, DoubleHaven. By the time the sun had set we had eight yachts anchored in the calm bay with the spectacular hills as a backdrop. Three sailing vessels had followed us through the fog from Petersburg and were glad we had suggested the destination due to the scenery and whales.
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| Ocras near Pybus Bay – 1 |
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| Orcas -2 |
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| Orcas – 3 |
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| Cannery Cove on a sunny day |
July 8, 2016 – Cannery Cove to Patterson Bay and Port Walker
Knowing we had a long run ahead of us we pulled the anchor at 0635 under sunny skies and headed out of Cannery Cove into Frederick Sound, past Kingsmill Point and into Chatham Strait. We were getting a modest boost from the ebb tide as we set a direct course for Mist Cove, our fishing destination for the day. We were surprised at how far south into Chatham the cell phone reception lasted, nearly to Gut Bay from the middle of the channel.
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| Sea Otter at Kingsmill Point |
Arriving at Mist Cove the calm winds increased locally due to the tide rips, but we put the tender astern on a short tie and began fishing anyway. Fishing was difficult due to the amount of kelp and seaweed in the water. After losing two fish, probably due to dull hooks, we finally landed a nice Coho salmon and called it a day about 1600. Heading into Patterson Inlet, the 5-10 knot southerly breeze funneled through the narrow opening at the end to more than 15 knots. The wind would not have been an issue except for the masses of jellyfish infesting the inlet. The last time we anchored here we clogged the generator sea strainer with jellyfish and shut the generator down. The wind, combined with the jellyfish made us decide to find another anchorage for the evening.
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| The rockslide in Patterson Inlet has not changed much in three years |
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| Lions Mane Jellyfish |
Since we were fishing further south in the morning anyway we headed for Port Walter and anchored in Denmark Cove in 75 feet of water over a hard bottom shortly before 1900. After cleaning the Coho we grilled burgers for dinner and then enjoyed some HGTV for an hour while we ate. The Satellite TV has been working better after changing the tracking frequencies, but is still dependent on boat orientation and the height of the hills where we moor or anchor. We had covered 81 nautical miles and have now travelled 1900 nautical miles since Anacortes.
July 9, 2016 – Port Walker to Gut Bay
We kept a close watch on the anchor all night due to the uncertain holding on the hard bottom, but we were set well, even with the substantial current flowing in and out of the inner basin. This bay also had a lot of jellyfish, but not nearly as many as in Patterson Bay. The wind also does not funnel in the same way, so it was a more comfortable night at anchor, hearing the anchor chain dragging across the hard bottom as the wind and currents shifted. The weather was not as nice, with moderate fog in Chatham Strait.
At 0805 we pulled the anchor and travelled the short distance south to Point Armstrong, where we hoped to pick up a King Salmon like we did in 2011. No such luck this time, but we did land three Coho Salmon, one 31 inches long and weighing 13 pounds, which would have been a legal King. The fish were at 50-70 feet and were caught on both red and green flashers with herring. We called it a good fishing morning at 1130 and set a course for Gut Bay, our destination for the evening.
The visibility had improved at our location, but as we headed north the fog was till thick in many of the inlets, including Patterson Bay, and yet we could see to Kuiu Island on the other side of Chatham, a distance of more than 12 nautical miles.
Arriving at our not so secret location for Coho, the wind had piped up to 17-20 knots making fishing difficult. After two passes, and getting increasingly worried about drifting into shore we pulled in the lines and headed into Gut Bay. The bay has been partially surveyed in 2013 since our first visit and the charts are now more accurate, but still blank close to the head of the bay. As we approached the anchorage at the head of the bay in front of the river, the winds again increased and after anchoring in 125 feet of water watched the winds gust to 23 knots. Patrick took the Grady White and surveyed the bottom closer to the river mouth and after looking at the wind, we moved Spirit closer, into 80 feet of water, and re-anchored. The wind continued to gust to more than 20 knots as we cleaned and fileted the three Coho into 14 meal sized portions which went into the freezer.
We hoped that the wind would abate when the sun went down, but no luck. Even at 2330 the wind was still gusting to over 15 knots and steady at 8-10 knots. However, the anchor is securely set and we can sleep well this evening.
July 10, 2016 – Gut Bay to Red Bluff Bay
Sometime overnight night the wind died and we awoke to a calm anchorage. Heading out fishing at 0710 we had the lines in the water shortly after 0800 and the first Coho on board at 0815. At 0845 we hooked up again, only this time it was a 17-pound King salmon. We had a few more strikes, but no more fish, so at 1015, with the ebb tide at maximum current we quit and headed to Red Bluff Bay, just a few miles away. Red Bluff Bay anchorage was a minefield of commercial crab pots and all the good spots were full of pots. Two other yachts were anchored, so we headed out into the middle in 90 feet of water, setting the anchor hard since winds to 20 knots were predicted for the evening.
The morning catch was fileted and frozen into another 14 meal sized packages, each about 1 pound.
By evening two other vessels had arrived, so now there were five of us anchored in the bay. We decided that shrimp primavera sounded good for dinner, so vegetables were sautéed and linguini boiled as we enjoyed a pasta dinner in the now peaceful waters of Red Bluff Bay. We continued to watch episodes from “Victory at Sea” as the sun went down, now much earlier than one month ago, and finally shut off the lights at 1030PM, with the bay now mostly dark.
July 11, 2016
Light rain greeted us as we pulled the anchor from the mud in Red Bluff Bay at 0835 and headed back out into Chatham Strait. After a calm transit we turned the corner into Warm Springs Bay and headed for the public dock at Baranof Hot Springs. We were too late for the inside dock, just a few minutes behind a 100-foot charter boat from Juneau, but managed to squeeze into a spot on the outside, narrowly beating another charter boat racing into the bay about ½ mile behind us. After settling in, we headed out in the tender and landed a 25-pound halibut and a rockfish, which were fileted after dinner.
July 12, 2016
Patrick fished the morning high slack tide and returned with two large quillback rockfish. As boats left we moved Spirit to the end of the dock and turned around to port side against the dock to make departure the next morning easier. Evening high slack tide produced 3 more rockfish, but no halibut.
July 13, 2016
The rain started sometime overnight, so we just remained at the dock and did not fish, but did enjoy the hot springs.
July 14, 2016
After a morning soak in the public hot spring baths we cast off the lines at 0855 to catch the morning high slack tide on our way to Cannery Cove in Pybus Bay. Anchoring Spirit in 220 feet of water we began fishing and by 1030 had 5 large rockfish and 2 halibut on board. The current had started to ebb so we pulled the anchor and headed across Chatham Strait past Point Gardner and into Frederick Sound. Frederick Sound was full of humpback whales feeding and one even breached totally out of the water. There were at least 100 whales and we had to keep slowing down and steering around them, since they seemed oblivious to our presence. Shortly after 1600 we anchored in Cannery Cove next to several mega yachts and enjoyed the last of the sunny skies as we cleaned and processed the morning catch.
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| Hympback Whales in Frederick Sound |
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| Our “Neighbor” in Cannery Cove |
July 15, 2016
Knowing we had 55 nautical miles to Petersburg and wanting to make Wrangell Narrows before the current was too adverse, we raised the anchor at 0620 and headed out of Cannery Cove. The whales were just as numerous as the previous day, feeding near the surface, which was almost a mirror since there was no wind or waves.
As we approached Petersburg we met a flotilla of Jeanneau sailboats cruising with Jim Rard from Anacortes. Leading the 11 boats was our previous Jeanneau 49, back from a five-year cruise to Australia from Anacortes and now named “Dilligaf”. We chatted on the VHF radio as we headed into Petersburg and they all headed to Hobart Bay. We had last been aboard Dilligaf for coffee the morning it departed for the South Pacific.
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| The former “Spirit”, now “Dilligaf” |
Arriving in Petersburg at 1330 we purchased some more insulated shipping containers for our fish and arranged to add them to the ones already in storage. The frozen fish will remain in Petersburg until we return in September and then will ship to Seattle as air freight on Alaska Airlines.
We have now covered 2100 nautical miles, with about 1200 nautical miles left on this year’s journey.
