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Sitka to Petersburg – Part 1

By on June 28, 2016 in Spirit
June 14-15, 2016

Sitka, no fishing

June 16, 2016

At 0805 we cast off the lines and headed for Kalinin Bay, just 25 nautical miles away.  We were anchored by 1136.

June 17, 2016

Fished twice, once in the morning catching a 33 inch King Salmon and once in the afternoon with a 34 inch King Salmon.


June 18, 2016

Fished for Halibut, but only donated snacks to the fish.

June 19, 2016

Hoisting the anchor from the sticky mud in Kalinin Bay we departed for the final time in 2016 and headed back to Sitka for fuel and fresh produce before departing the Sitka area for the season.

Memorial Crosses in Olga Strait

The wrecked tug continues to rust away near Olga Strait
June 21, 2016

At 0740 we cast off the lines for the last time in Sitka and headed back through Sergius Narrows.  We headed up Hoonah Sound and anchored in Douglass Bay.  Prawn pots were set and we enjoyed a calm evening as the only boat in the bay.  An evening check of the pots provided our limit of prawns.

June 22, 2016

The morning pull of the prawn pots again gave us our daily limit of prawns.  After processing the prawns we pulled the anchor at 0820 and headed back down Hoonah Sound into Peril Strait and out into Chatham Strait.  Heading north we entered Tenakee Inlet and tied up at the transient float in Tenakee Springs at 1645 after a 62 nautical mile day.  Patrick immediately set out our two crab traps in Kadashan Bay.

A section of Tenakee Springs

Tenakee Springs Yard Art

Baranof guarding the Tenakee Liquor Store

Well stocked general store Tenakee Springs

June 23, 2016

The morning check of the crab pots gave us our limit of three each.  We cooked them and had crab that evening.  The wind came up in the late afternoon and the breakwater provides no protection from westerly winds.  Mooring lines were doubled up and the Grady White was moved to a protected slip.  The stern was towards the wind and waves and we had waves coming over the transom platform until the winds died after dark.


June 24, 2016

The crab pots in Kadashan Bay had our limits once again and after bringing the crabs back to the boat we went to “The Bakery” for breakfast.  We left Tenakee Springs at 1050 and headed for Hoonah.  Both Chatham Strait and Icy Strait were calm and by 1635 we were moored at the transient pier in Hoonah Harbor after a 45 nautical mile transit.  There is water on the pier, but no power.

Pod of Humpbacks,Basket Bay

The most whales we have seen all season
June 25, 2016

A Holland America cruise ship was at Icy Strait Point Cannery, so the area was open to all.  We caught a shuttle bus and rode the two miles from Hoonah Harbor to the cannery, which has a museum, shops and several restaurants, as well as a six cable 1330 foot elevation change zip line.  The entire place is well done and seemed to be well received by the cruise ship passengers.
Icy Strait Pont Cannery

Well laid out exhibits

Museum has some interesting old sewing machines

Salon processing equipment in the cannery, this cuts the fish into segments

This machine puts the salmon into the cans and puts the lids on
The top of the zip line was in the fog and rain, but the viewing area provided a good view of the final few hundred feet.  Returning to town we looked at the cedar dugout canoes being built by the Alaska Natives for a new longhouse dedication in August in Glacier Bay and then had halibut and chips at the “Chipperfish”.  The afternoon was spent changing the main engine oil at 3402 hours.   Walking back into town to the Hoonah Trading Company for a few supplies, we stopped at the Hoonah Brewing Company, which was under construction last year.  Now open, they brew several craft beers and have a Thai food truck next door run by the owner’s wife to supply Thai snacks.  Dinner was a strange halibut pizza at the Icy Strait Lodge, which is about ¾ mile from the harbor.

Native dugout canoes under construction

Eagle surveying Hoonah Harbor

Native Graveyard on Pitt Island, Hoonah

June 26, 2016

We decided to investigate Neka Bay and left the harbor at 0900 for the short 8 nautical mile trip down Port Frederick.  The bay was full of commercial crab pots leaving little room to anchor.  Patrick tried to fish from the Grady White, but had to return an undersized ling cod before returning to Spirit as the rain and wind returned.  The wind finally calmed and we spent a peaceful evening at anchor with one other boat about ½ mile away.

Chimney Rock at Neka Bay
June 27, 2016

Even with the calm night, we did not sleep well for some reason and departed early, at 0635 under cloudy skies and calm winds.  As we retraced our path down Icy Strait to Chatham Strait the skies cleared and we had an uneventful trip into Pavlof Bay, a new stop for us.  Anchoring deep in the bay in 45 feet of water behind “Abysinnia”, a small cruise ship, we readied the Grady White for fishing. 
Putting poles out from the stern of Spirit netted us two large Quillback Rockfish, great for fish tacos.  Initially the winds and seas were a little choppy for the Grady White in Chatham, so after waiting for high slack tide, Patrick returned to North Passage Point and returned with a 40 inch, 30 pound halibut, caught on salmon trolling gear.  Since Patrick was alone, he gaffed the fish and flung it into the bow of the tender and bled it quickly before returning to Spirit.  After a dinner of Pork Chops and stuffing we cleaned the fish and now have nearly full freezers.  By 10:30 PM there were seven boats anchored in Pavlof Bay.

June 28, 2016

By the time we got up, most of the vessels had already departed.  We left shortly before 0900.  As we departed we remarked on the red/brown sand beaches from iron in the soil and wished we had investigated the waterfall, which seemed to be an attraction for the guests on the Wilderness Explorer which was anchored about 2 miles further up Freshwater Bay.

Waterfall in Pavlof Harbor

Brown/Red sand beaches in Pavlof Harbor
Chatham Strait was calm and nearly deserted as we headed south for Takatz Bay.  Unlike the day before we did not even see any whales or porpoises.



Sitka Interlude

By on June 15, 2016 in Spirit

Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Awaiting parts for the watermaker and the failed seawater washdown pump we decided to just enjoy the Sitka Summer Music Festival for a few days.  Wednesdays are performances in local cafes and restaurants and this evening’s concert was in the Westmark Hotel.  Arriving early, and with reservations we had a good table to view and hear the Cypress String Quartet play another of the 16 Beethoven String Quartets.  By the beginning of the performance the place was packed and we invited a single lady, Dorothy Weicker, to move her table closer so we could talk.  The music was great but the food service was slow and the food was mediocre at best.  Patrick sent his entrée back, it was cold and tasteless by the time it arrived.  The kitchen staff managed to ruin a piece of halibut and the concert was over before the food arrived after a wait of 1 ½ hours.

Thursday, June 2, 2016

We decided to pass on the noontime Bach’s Lunch concert, especially since the rain had returned.  The day was spent doing laundry and pre-plumbing the hoses for the new washdown pump to improve maintenance and access.

Eliason Harbor is a working port full of photo opportunities.
The mountains provide a dramatic backdrop to Eliason Harbor
Purse Seiners getting nets ready

This longliner was built in 1913 and has had only four owners
The cormorants seem unafraid of us in the calm harbor water.
Friday, June 3, 2016

The watermaker motor contactor arrived and was installed, with success.  The old part, when removed, was partially melted and it looked like a loose connection had caused arcing and failure.
The rain continued heavy and we were drenched by the time we walked to the Sitka Performing Arts Center for the evening concert.  The music was great, but by the time we left, the rain was even harder as we walked the mile back to the boat.

Saturday, June 4, 2016

We decided to go fishing at Biorka Island today to test out our gear and left at the late hour of 0807.  We managed to get one King salmon before returning to the dock at 1515.

Sunday, June 5, 2016

Spirit departed the dock in Eliason Harbor at 0445 with two members of the Cypress String Quartet as guests.  Tom Stone is one of the Violinists and Ethan Filner is the Violist.  Arriving at Biorka Island at 0635 the lines were soon in the water and by 0830 we had 4 King Salmon on board, 2 each for Tom and Ethan.  We lost several more for us, and had to return to the dock before noon so they could practice for the evening concert at St. Peters by the Sea Episcopal Church at 1730.

St. Peter’s by the sea
Monday, June 6, 2016

The washdown pump had arrived, so it was installed and tested.  The rain continues.

New wash down pump installation
Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Another early departure for Biorka Island, we were underway by 0455.  Fishing was slow in 3-5 foot swells, and we only managed to catch one Coho Salmon, early this year.  Nonetheless, it was a nice fish.  Returning to the dock at 1235 we picked up the repaired navigation computer and attended the free concert at Stevenson Hall.  Since we were taking Cecily Ward, the First Violinist in the Cypress String Quartet and her husband Mark Wilshire fishing the next morning, we opted out of the late evening concert.

Rainbow over Sentinel Rock, Sitka Sound
Wednesday, June 8, 2106


Our guests arrived on time and Spirit pulled away from the dock at 0515 for Biorka Island.  There was still a sizeable swell off of the island, but we put the lines in by 0700 and by 0900 we had landed 8 King Salmon, 2 each for all of us, as well as a lone Coho Salmon.  We were back to the dock by 1205 and the fish were sent to the processor.  Since arriving at Kalinin Bay Spirit has landed a total of 16 King and 2 Coho Salmon.  We have a total of 6 more King Salmon between our two licenses, so we will continue to go to Biorka Island to fish.

The evening concert was another café event, this time at” The Mean Queen”, a pizza and salad operation that has been open for only six months.  It is owned jointly by the Owner of the Channel Club and Mary, who had been our server several times in the past at the Channel Club.  The pizzas were great and the music was even better, since they played to a standing room only audience and we were at a table right next to the quartet.  Mary even gave us a ride back to the harbor after the place calmed down following the performance.

Evening Performance at The Mean Queen
Thursday, June 9, 2016

Another day at the dock, doing laundry, cleaning the boat and picking up our processed fish to put in our own freezers on board.  We need to start eating the food we brought from Anacortes so we will have room for more fish, a good problem to have.  We can offload the fish when we get to Petersburg and have it shipped from there when we return to Anacortes and Bellevue in September.

Dinner was at Ludvig’s Bistro, where the only table we could get was not available until 8:30 PM.  The food was good, worth the long wait since we did not get seated until just before 9 PM.

Celebrating 44 years of marriage at Ludvig’s Bistro
Friday, June 10, 2016

Another 0500 departure from the dock with Spirit, heading back to Biorka Island.  The day was a bust, with lost gear, small fish we released and nothing to show for a full day as we returned to the dock.  After leftovers from Ludvig’s for dinner we headed to the Sitka Music Festival concert at the Performing Arts Center where we listened to two more of the Beethoven String Quartets.

Saturday, June 11, 2016

Several members of the Cypress String Quartet, along with Zuill Bailey, the artistic director of the music festival and also a world class Cellist in his own right, his two sons and his manager from El Paso joined us as we headed out for another day of fishing before the final concert of the quartet in the evening.  Fishing was slow, with only one King Salmon brought on board.

The concert that evening was bittersweet.  The music was good, but the realization that this was the final public concert of the Cypress String Quartet after 20 years and three trips to Sitka made it also poignant.  We have taken them fishing all three years they performed in Sitka and have grown to appreciate their artistic talent (15 CD’s and performances all over the world).  They have commissioned 30 pieces over the years and they performed one of those on Friday night.  Getting to know them personally has also been special as well.

Cypress String Quartet beginning their last public performance

We did a group photo at the end of the concert with everyone who had gone fishing with us.
Sunday, June 12, 2016

No fishing today, so we went to the Mean Queen for Sunday Brunch, which is pizza and salad, washed down with Bloody Marys.  We walked back to the boat in the rain and took a nap!  The rain quit and the sunset was spectacular over the harbor.

We are moored right next to Sunset

The view from our cockpit

At 13:30 PM the sun is just setting down the main dock
Monday, June 13, 2016

Spirit left Eliason Harbor at 0500 for fishing via the Western Channel.  As we headed out the swells increased and we altered course for Biorka Island.  Alex Benson from Wild Blue joined us.  The lines went in the water shortly after 0700 and after three hours we had two king salmon and two coho salmon in the ice chest, along with a large black rockfish.  The wind and swell increased and at noon we turned back to the harbor, arriving at 1345.  The fish were sent to the processor and after cleaning the boat we relaxed in the now sunny skies and watched another great sunset.

Since the sun was out, we managed to get a few random photos around town.
Russian Bishop’s Residence, now a National Park Site

A piece of Herring Rock, sacred to the Alaskan Natives

Sculpture at the Alaska Pioneer’s Home

Part of the rebuilt St, Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral

Sitka Blarney Stone

Baranof Island Brewing tap room

Petersburg to Sitka

By on June 6, 2016 in Spirit

May 25, 2016 – Petersburg to Cannery Cove

The rain overnight was followed by low clouds and mist as Spirit left Petersburg Harbor and rode the ebb tide out North Wrangell Narrows into Frederick Sound.  
Derelict Fishing Boat in Wrangell Narrows

Periods of mist alternated with glimpses of sun on snowy peaks in the distance on Admiralty Island, our destination for the evening.  The wind remained light as we passed Cape Strait and altered course almost due west.  Unlike later in the summer season Frederick Sound was nearly devoid of both whales and other marine traffic.

Passing Cape Fanshawe well to the south we spotted our first humpback spouts of the season, but they were too far away for photos.  The cell phone repeater at Five Fingers Island Lighthouse is still working and so we had 1 hour of coverage as we passed within 5 miles of the lighthouse, now a whale research station.  We set a direct course for the northerly approach to Cannery Cove (apparently named from an old cannery, now gone without a trace) and entered as the rain began to fall.  Anchoring in 55 feet of water deep in the cove we avoided the views of Pybus Point Lodge fishing resort, seemingly deserted this early in the season.  We had covered 54 nautical miles when we shut down the main engine at 1430.  We have now logged 901 nautical miles since Anacortes.

Rainbow in Pybus Bay

Approaching Cannery Cove in the rain
The skies cleared briefly in Cannery Cove

Our First Cannery Cove Crabs

Patrick set out one crab pot and two prawn pots.  The non-resident limit for crab is three per day, so one pot should be sufficient.  Our first Dungeness crab of the season was in the pot after only 1 hour.  The torrential rain showers we had after arriving were replaced by partly sunny skies and light winds.  That was also short-lived as the rain showers continued to pass through the cove.  After watching half of a movie, about 2030 we checked the crab pot and brought back 4 more nice legal crab, almost completing our limit for the day.  The crabs were cooked while we watched the rest of the movie.  Spirit was joined in Cannery Cove by a mega-yacht, “Talos”, which anchored about 500 yards further out in the cove.  As the sky finally darkened about 2230, what little wind there was faded entirely.

May 26, 2016 – Cannery Cove to Warm Springs Bay

The morning check of the single crab pot had two legal crabs and the two prawn pots yielded our limit of spot prawns, which is three quarts per license per day.  After steaming the two crabs and cooking the prawns we pulled the anchor from the sticky mud in Cannery Cove at 0805 and headed down West Passage and into Frederick Sound where we then set a course for Point Gardner on the tip of Admiralty Island.  Aside from one cruise ship and a few fishing boats we had the route to ourselves until we reached Point Gardner where we saw the R/V Kestrel doing some sort of work in Surprise Harbor.

The snowy peaks of Baranof Island from Chatham Strait

Arriving in Warm Springs Bay the public dock appeared full so we turned around and anchored at 1330 in the south arm of the bay where we had anchored before.  This arm is prone to winds and today was no exception, with the wind gusting to 20 knots.  The bottom is hard with poor holding so we knew we would have to watch Spirit all night.  Patrick took the tender to the dock for a soak in the public baths fed by the hot springs and discovered there was just enough room on the inside of the dock for Spirit to fit.

The buildings that slid down the hill are still there
The waterfall from Baranof Lake

Returning to Spirit, the anchor was quickly raised and we headed the one half mile back to the dock and by 1530 we were secured to the dock.  By evening there were boats rafted out from the dock, a mixture of commercial trollers, sailboats, powerboats and a 90-foot charter vessel, Alaska Song.  The sunny weather continued and Patrick went out at high slack tide hunting for the elusive halibut.  After a number of bites, something too big to get on board hooked up.  Patrick could get it perhaps 20 feet off the bottom and then it would go back down.  Looking at the chartplotter on the tender Patrick realized he was now hundreds of yards from where he had hooked up.  Knowing that even if he got it to the surface it would be too big to land or be good eating, after an hour he just cut the line.

Public Bathhouse at Warm Springs Bay
The three tubs in the bathhouse

May 27, 2016 – Warm Springs Bay to Saook Bay

The public dock emptied out by 0900 except for Spirit and one other pleasure craft.  We waited until low slack tide so we could take advantage of the flood tide northbound in Chatham.  As the tide continued to go out we could see the extent of the underwater rock off the end of the dock.  We would have to be careful leaving.  After a final soak in the hot springs, Spirit departed at 1210.  The water depth went down to 5 feet under the keel just off the end of the dock and remained shallow for several hundred feet before dropping off.

Spirit all alone at Warm Springs Bay
Wrecked Seiner on the beach entering Peril Strait

Chatham Strait had northerly winds to 24 knots and a flood tide so the ride was not as comfortable as we had hoped, once again covering the wheelhouse windows in spray from the 3-5 foot seas on the bow.  Turning into Peril Strait at Point Thatcher the wind and seas quickly subsided as we used Thatcher Passage to shorten the trip by a mile or so.  Peril Strait had flat seas and 5 knot winds.  Entering Saaok bay the winds increased slightly as we anchored in 110 feet of water off the drying flats called “Paradise Flats”.  Patrick set one crab pot and a halibut pole off the stern.  Miriam and Patrick made up crab cakes for dinner, along with a crab leg cocktail as an appetizer and also some crab mac & cheese, definitely a
“crabby” dinner.

Paradise Flats in Saook Bay
The winds died and we spent the evening watching a movie, “The Walk”.  There was still enough light at 1130 to navigate by if we had to be underway.

May 28, 2016 – Saook Bay to Douglass Bay

After a still night at anchor, with dawn twilight beginning at 0245 we finally got up at 0730 and checked the one pot for crab.  We had 5 large (7 ½-8 ½ inches) Dungeness crab which were quickly killed, cleaned and cooked by 0930.  Our non-resident limit is 3 per person per day, so two pots would have been too many.  The temperature started out at 50 degrees and by 0930 it was 60 degrees and sunny.  After a breakfast of crab and cheese omelets we pulled in the halibut pole and raised the anchor, setting a course up Peril Strait into Hoonah Sound to South Arm alongside Moser Island.

Even though it is Memorial Day Weekend, there is little traffic on the water, an occasional troller, one or two pleasure craft and the AIS display is empty.  Entering Hoonah Sound we passed by Emmons Island and then anchored in Douglass Bay on Chichagof Island.  The bay is a nice alternative to anchoring off of the tip of Moser Island by the USFS cabin.

After setting the anchor Patrick took the tender and placed one crab pot and 3 prawn pots in places we have done well in before.

The evening check of the prawn pots yielded a few, and the crab pot was empty so it was moved.

May 29, 2015 – Douglass Bay to Kalinin Bay

The morning pull of the prawn pots yielded our limit and we gathered one additional Dungeness Crab.  By 0845 Spirit was underway and after an uneventful transit of Sergius Narrows in Peril Strait we anchored in an empty Kalinin Bay at 1245.  After lunch we took the tender fishing and after losing two fish, finally landed a 21 pound King Salmon, which when cleaned turned out to be a white king prized for the extra oil in the flesh compared to a normal king salmon.  The rain was torrential while Patrick was fileting and portioning the salmon, but at least the rain kept the no-see-um’s tolerable.

Our White King Salmon in Kalinin Bay
The empty bay gradually filled with fishermen returning and by 2100 there were 14 boats anchored.

May 30, 2016 – Kalinin Bay to Sitka

The first fishing boats started to depart the bay at 0430 and we followed at 0545.  The light rain and no wind kept the seas flat in the Shark Hole, but we had no luck fishing.  We returned to Spirit and pulled the anchor at 0900, heading for Sitka.  We were docked in Eliason Harbor on Float 2, Stall 9 at 1245 under cloudy skies with occasional rain showers.

After changing the oil on the generator and removing a faulty raw water washdown pump we relaxed and called home to family.  We logged 1058 nautical miles getting to Sitka.

We plan on attending a number of the Sitka Summer Music Festival and the Cypress String Quartet over the next few days, along with fishing if the weather permits.

May 31,2016 – Sitka

A trip to Murray Pacific confirmed that 24VDC washdown pumps are not available in Sitka, so we got on the phone and by noon one was ordered and on its way.  A phone call to Jason Chynoweth at Sunburst Boat Co., who is the watermaker expert, helped us troubleshoot a high pressure pump shutdown issue with the watermaker.  By afternoon, parts were on order to be shipped to Sitka.  In the middle of these phone calls we were moved twice to new slips in Eliason Harbor during this time, finally ending up Float 10, Stall 6.  A number of the Float 10 stalls have only 100 Amp three phase power or 30 Amp 110 VAC power, neither ideal for Spirit, so we will just run the generator when we need to run the washer and dryer, which require 240 VAC.

The main navigation computer intermittent shutdowns continue, so with an internet connection in the harbor we updated the Windows software, which had not been updated in three years.  Just the downloading process took several hours since there was nearly a gigabyte of updates to install.

That evening we went to the first performance of the Sitka Summer Music Festival performed by the Cypress String Quartet, who will be playing all 16 Beethoven String Quartets over the course of the next 11 days.  They have gone fishing with us on prior trips and after the performance we connected to see what dates will work for them with their performance schedule.  Centennial Hall, the site of the weekend performances, is closed for renovation, so this season many of the venues are in restaurants or in the Performing Arts Center at Sitka High School.

After the performance we walked the two miles back to Eliason Harbor, stopping for dinner at the Bayview Pub downtown.  The Bayview Pub has both pub food and a more traditional menu, all of it excellent, with a view of Crescent Harbor out the windows.  The rain picked up as we continued our walk back to Spirit.

Wrangell to Petersburg

By on May 24, 2016 in Spirit

Saturday, May 21 was another sunny day in Wrangell.  Miriam and Patrick walked the mile into town and joined the throngs of visitors from the smaller cruise ship “Seven Seas Mariner”, which was tied up at the cruise ship dock.  There were lots of small stands selling various kinds of home baked goods and a local market in the Nolan Community Center.  The longhouse on Shakes Island was open, with flags on the bridge leading to it.  People were even on canoe and kayak tours of Reliance Harbor.

The Seven Seas Mariner dominates the harbor
Cruise Sip Guests canoeing in Reliance Harbor
Shakes Island Longhouse all decked out.
Downtown Totem Park
By 4 PM most passengers were back on board and the ship departed for the next stop.  The food stands disappeared and the town appeared almost deserted.  We had intended to go to the Stikine Inn for dinner, but it was closed for an outside catering event.

May 22, 2016 – Wrangell

Clouds had moved in overnight and the temperature had dropped by 10 degrees.  In the afternoon, after getting the salmon gear ready, Patrick and Rick Lennon took the Lennon’s Stabicraft tender fishing, waiting until the afternoon when the rain became steady.  Like most people that day they returned empty handed.  We went to the Stikine Inn for dinner with the Lennon’s and also met the people on the Seahorse 52 “Pacifier”, who also keep their boat in Wrangell year round.  The specials included a duck confit “Po’ Boy” and a BBQ Pork sandwich, both delicious.

May 23, 2016 – Wrangell to Petersburg

The tides are still large and high slack tide in Wrangell Narrows is at 1530, so that dictated we leave Wrangell shortly after 1100.  There had been light mist earlier in the morning, but we left under partly sunny skies and 10-15 knots of wind from the SW, saying goodbye to the Lennon’s until later in July when we begin our trip southbound.

The trip from Wrangell to Petersburg was totally uneventful, and one we have done countless times.  Our first trip we had the paper charts out and counted each marker as we passed.  Now we do not even get the chart out of the storage drawer, but still count the markers.  At 1630 we shut down the main engine in North Harbor, slip 35, close to where we have been before.

The main navigation computer started resetting again, and we found the CMOS battery had failed after seven years.  The local hardware store had a replacement, and by 1830 everything was back running normally, or so we thought.  Then the computer started resetting again, this time from power failures.  The UPS (Uninterruptable Power Supply) which supposedly provides for time for a graceful shutdown of the navigation computer and several other devices was itself have intermittent shutdowns, cause unknown.

As the sun set we feasted on a variety of leftovers from previous meals, making space in the reefer for more fresh foods for the next week as we head for Sitka.

Random Drone Shot of Spirit in Foggy Bay courtesy of Peter Geerlofs
May 24, 2016

Update, the local marine electronics store had a new UPS, it has been running all day normally, so we seem to be back in business.  We stocked up on fresh produce and are preparing to leave in the AM.  We will be out of contact until we arrive in Sitka in a week.

Ketchikan to Wrangell

By on May 21, 2016 in Spirit

May 15-18, 2016

After arriving in Ketchikan on May 15 we spent the remainder of the day cleaning some of the salt from Spirit and laying out our plans for the next few days.  The rain intensified as the day progressed.  As a celebration for a smooth crossing of Dixon Entrance we went to the new Bar Harbor Restaurant in a drenching downpour.  Even with a taxi it was wet.

On Monday Patrick went to the post office and picked up the parts we had shipped in, including the new Tecma toilet seat which had failed.  The main navigation computer had also failed in heavy seas in Johnstone Strait and we had been using a laptop as a stopgap.  We had a mixture of sun and showers as the weather front began to move onshore.
 

Midday we met the crew of Seaducktress at the Cape Fox Lodge for lunch and found that the funicular to the lodge was broken, so we had to hike up “married man’s trail” from Creek Street to the lodge to enjoy the views of downtown Ketchikan and Thomas Basin.  Patrick found a new power supply at a local computer store and by the end of the day we were back in business.

Hiking up Married Man Trail to Cape Fox Lodge
The trail has 150 vertical steps plus gravel paths
The view from the dining room was worth the hike
Salmon Sculpture alongside Ketchikan Creek
The weather continued to deteriorate and the predicted gale began on Tuesday, with cold temperatures, wind and rain.  Even the eagles looked bedraggled as they fought over food on the boat launch ramp close to our slip.  That evening we shared dinner on board “Misty One”, a custom Rayburn that also moors at Anacortes Marina.

The bedraggled eagles fighting over a fish
Wednesday was just as bad from a weather standpoint, so we stayed in Ketchikan and hoped the weather would clear, although a few boats were arriving from Prince Rupert and asking for slip assignments.

May 19, 2016

The rain had stopped and the wind had shifted to the northwest, so at 0715 we cast off the lines and said goodbye to Ketchikan until we are headed south across Dixon Entrance later in the summer.  Proceeding north up Tongass Narrows we had hopes of a smooth day in Clarence Strait and that was the case until we got to Ship Island, south of Meyers Chuck.  Then the flood tide combined with NW winds to 30 knots created conditions just like Johnstone Strait.  There were short, very steep seas and Spirit put the anchors on the bow pulpit underwater on several occasions.  We slowed down to keep from pounding to avoid a repeat computer failure.  Once again, even though the rain of the past few days had washed off the salt, in in a few minutes we were covered once again.  Passing Meyers Chuck we could see that the dock was full so we continued past Misery Island (well named), since the seas were the roughest right off of the island, and then turned into Ernest Sound.  The wind continued to blow for another few miles, but now on the beam, and the seas gradually calmed.  Once past the tip of Deer Island, the wind and waves both disappeared and we had a flat calm approach into Santa Anna Inlet.

The view out of a placid Santa Anna Inlet
Remains of mining machinery in Santa Anna Inlet
Spirit was the only boat in the inlet, so we anchored at the head of the inlet in 50 feet of water at 1435.  Patrick and Miriam got the prawn pots ready and by 1530 three pots were set at our favorite site near the opening to the inlet.

We spend a peaceful night at anchor trying to watch a movie, but either the movie was boring or we were actually too tired, so at 2100 we turned out the lights after watching a nearly full moon rise over the trees.

Bald Eagle

Full Moon rising over Santa Anna Inlet
May 20, 2016

With no particular schedule, Patrick checked the prawn pots sometime after 0800 and brought back our limit of spot prawns plus a number of squat lobsters.  After cooking all of them, we pulled the anchor at 0925 and headed up Seward Passage, past Thoms Place and into Zimovia Strait.  Regardless of the tide, the current seems to always run towards Clarence Strait down Seward Passage.

Some of our spot prawns
Entering Zimovia Strait we saw something in the water and it turned out to be two deer out for a mid-day swim.  As we passed by they turned around and headed back to shore.  It is not the first time we have seen this behavior.

Deer in Zimovia Strait out for a swim
Approaching Wrangell from Zimovia Strait
By 1435 we were moored at Wrangell’s Heritage Basin, having covered 90 miles since leaving Ketchikan.  That evening we shared the spot prawns with Pat & Rick Lennon on the Selene 53 “Tranquility” along with another apple pie baked by Miriam.

A ridge of high pressure is predicted to build over the Gulf of Alaska over the next few days, so we should continue to have clear but somewhat windy weather.

Pruth Bay to Ketchikan

By on May 15, 2016 in Spirit
May 12, 2016 – Pruth Bay to Bottleneck Inlet

The sun was shining and the wind had shifted to NE overnight.  We pulled the anchor from the good holding and headed up Meay Channel, across Hakai Pass and into Ward Passage.  Exiting into Fitz Hugh Sound via Nalau Passage we bucked a 1.5 to 2.0 knot ebb current all the way to Lama Passasge.  Entering Lama Passage the current was with us and we quickly passed New Bella Bella, bypassing Shearwater. We photographed Dryad Point lighthouse on the way, even though we have seen it many times.   Heading into Seaforth Channel we passed Ivory Point Light at 1505 and entered Milbanke Sound, which only had a low westerly swell.

Catch up photo of dandelion at Shoal Bay

Shoal Bay was full of photo ops.

Eagle outside of Port McNeill

Dryad Point Lighthouse
As we passed Vancouver Rock the winds built from the NE to more than 30 knots.  At 1615 we turned the corner into Finlayson Channel and headed for Bottleneck Inlet, our destination for the evening.  We passed through bands of wind to 32 knots, but found a calm patch just outside the entrance to Bottleneck Inlet.  Pulling the Grady White alongside we entered the narrow and shallow entrance and anchored in 32 feet of water just past the only other boat.  There was no wind inside and glassy water.

We watched the season finale of “Big Bang Theory”, since the TV satellite dish was still picking up local Seattle stations.  Miriam had prepared some stuffed bell peppers for dinner and we enjoyed them in the 70 degree temperatures in the inlet.

May 13, 2016 – Bottleneck Inlet to Lowe Inlet

We pulled the anchor from the sticky mud in Bottleneck Inlet at 0558, following the only other boat out of the inlet and headed for Hiekish Narrows to minimize the effects of the ebb tide.  The currents can run up to 4 knots on large tides, which occur this time of year.

As we entered Princess Royal Channel we decided, based on the morning weather forecast, to bypass our traditional stop in Khutze Inlet, giving up the crabbing, and instead pushing north to hopefully cross Dixon Entrance on Sunday before a predicted SE gale comes in on Monday afternoon.

Heading up Graham Reach and into Butedale Passage we diverted slightly to see the state of Butedale.  Every year more of the old cannery buildings fall in and the docks are now reputedly closed to visitors.  We did see that an aluminum gangway is now back in place between the docks and shore.

Butedale continues to deteriorate
Leaving Butedale behind we continued into Fraser Reach.  The calm water was covered in streaks of yellow pollen, reminding us of our 2010 trip, the first on the Selene.  The snow on the hills was nearly gone and there were only the larger waterfalls lining the shores, not the constant waterfalls we saw in 2012.

Rounding Kingcome Point at noon we entered MacKay Reach and finally picked up a small boost from the ebb tide, and the wind picked up from the north to 25 knots.  Exiting Princess Royal Channel and MacKay Reach we entered Wright Sound at Point Cumming and we set a direct course for the entrance to Grenville Channel.  The gusty northerly winds were replaced by constant NE winds at 10-15 knots.  Since we departed Bottleneck Inlet this morning the only other vessels we have seen are “Aquila”, who was also anchored in Bottleneck, and one water taxi heading to Hartley Bay.

Spirit headed up Grenville Channel and after some discussion, the decision was made to stop at Lowe Inlet and anchor in Nettle Basin.  There was one other boat anchored, “Seaducktress”, from Nordlund, Washington.  We had met Peter and Glenda for the first time in 2007 and then occasionally since then.  Miriam baked an apple pie and we all gathered on Spirit for dessert with pie and ice cream and a time of catching up.  By the time twilight arrived there were five boats anchored in Nettle Basin.  The evening ended early since both vessels plan on getting underway at 0500.

First Brown Bear on the beach

Verney Falls in Nettle Basin

Our view up Grenville Channel
May 14, 2016 – Lowe Inlet to Foggy Bay

Spirit did not make the 0500 departure, although Seaducktress was already gone at 0500.  We departed Lowe Inlet at 0550 as the sun was rising and headed back into Grenville Channel, riding the flood tide towards the top of Grenville.  The winds were calm and the skies mostly sunny as we powered towards Foggy Bay, some 104 nautical miles away.

Exiting Grenville Channel, Spirit proceeded up Arthur Passage and turning slightly west headed into Malacca Passage past Lawyer Islands and Client Reefs out into Chatham Sound.  There was now a low swell left over from last night’s winds and rippled wind chop on top.  Spirit is part of a parade of US boats headed for Ketchikan.

At the top of Grenville we regained cell phone coverage and checked in with US Customs in Ketchikan, receiving permission to stop in Foggy Bay this evening.

The further we got out into Chatham Sound the larger the swells became, growing to 4-6 feet, but very short period.  Since there was very little wind, even though Spirit pitched a lot the windows stayed dry and few waves came over the bow.  The closer we got to Green Island and Holliday Passage the calmer it got and as we passed Holliday Island light at 1527 the seas became glassy smooth.  Still riding a favorable current we set a direct course for Tree Point, in Alaska.

Green Island Lighthouse – last view of BC

Tree Point Light, First landfall in Alaska

“
Totems in Foggy Bay

Spirit anchored with Seducktress in Foggy Bay

Sun setting over our last day of good weather
Spirit crossed the US/Canada boundary at 1506 AKDT (we set the clocks back one hour for Alaska) and at 1720 we were anchored in Foggy Bay.  We enjoyed the warm sunny weather and watched the sun set through the gap in the trees looking out into Dixon Entrance.  We have covered 103 nautical miles today and 342 nautical miles since leaving Port McNeill 4 days ago.

May 15, 2016 – Foggy Bay to Ketchikan

With daylight time it was light by 0330, but we waited until 0550 to leave Foggy Bay.  The conditions had certainly changed since the previous evening.  It was overcast, the wind was blowing 15-20 and there were 4-6 foot waves on our quarter as we headed up Revillagigedo Channel past Mary Island and Hog Rocks towards Ketchikan.  The seas calmed down, but the wind persisted as Spirit approached Tongass Narrows.  We were cleared into the US by phone with our Nexus cards and then stopped at Petromarine for fuel.  Fuel is basically the same price as in Anacortes.

Topping off the fuel tanks we called for a moorage assignment and by 1115 we were tied up in Bar Harbor in the middle of a rain squall, a typical Ketchikan summer day.

Spirit has logged 718 nautical miles since Anacortes and 380 nautical miles since Port McNeill on May 11.

We will stay in Ketchikan until the gale passes and we get our spare parts from Seattle.  We plan on departing either May 18 or May 19.

Port McNeill to Pruth Bay

By on May 11, 2016 in Spirit

May 11, 2016 – Port McNeill to Pruth Bay

0500 came all too soon and in the predawn light we prepared to depart.  At 0536 the last line was brought aboard Spirit and we backed out of the slip, careful to not use noisy bow or stern thrusters since we saw no lights on the other boats in the marina.

Putting the tender in tow we headed across Neill Ledge and out past Pulteney Point lighthouse where we set a course for Ripple Pass.  The light breezes in Broughton Strait were soon replaced by 15-25 knot northwesterly breezes which kicked up a 3 foot chop on top of the low westerly swell.  Spirit was soon covered in salt spray, undoing all the work that Ted Marx had done the day before.

As we continued across Queen Charlotte Strait the wind gradually abated to 10-15 knots, but now the swell increased to 6-8 feet from both the offshore effects and the 3 knot ebb tide in Ripple Pass.  We had to slow down to keep from going airborne in the larger swells.

After several miles of sloppy water we passed through Ripple Pass and set a course for Cape Caution.  The Cape was abeam at 1115, with 5-10 knots of wind and a 6-8 foot swell at 7 seconds period on the port bow.  We had occasional light mist/rain as we passed Egg Island and then the sky cleared.

 The swell stayed with us until we were in the lee of Calvert Island and entering Fitz Hugh Sound, where the wind dropped to 3 knots and the seas were glassy.  We saw only one other pleasure craft crossing Cape Caution, “Salpare”, a Catalina 400 sailboat from Roche Harbor Yacht  Club.

When we turned the corner out of Fitz Hugh Sound into Kwakshua Channel the wind picked up, but fortunately subsided as we approached Pruth Bay.  Along the way we saw an interesting  rock formation.  Can you see what we saw?

Egg Island Light from 3 miles

The rock formation reminded us of a ???

Looking east down Kwakshua Channel 5 miles to Fitz Hugh Sound

At 1610 we slowed down as we entered the anchorage in Pruth Bay, a few hundred yards from the Hakai Beach Institute.  One other boat was already at anchor, otherwise it was an empty harbor, in stark contrast to late in the summer when there can be 25 boats anchored.  By 1618 the anchor was set and the engine was off after an 82 nautical mile day.  We relaxed in the cool sunshine, protected from the wind by the cockpit enclosure.

Port Harvey to Port McNeill

By on May 10, 2016 in Spirit
May 7, 2016 to Lagoon Cove

We reluctantly said our goodbyes to George and Sabi (his dog) at 1000 and headed back towards Johnstone Strait.  We endured a few minutes of chop and wind as we turned the corner into Havannah Channel and then into calm waters.  Transiting Chatham Channel on a flood tide we arrived at Lagoon Cove via The Blowhole at 1154.  We were the only visiting boat at first and were greeted by Jean Barbour who has been operating Lagoon Cove since her husband Bill died three years ago.  By 1700 happy hour time there were 4 boats and we all gathered at Jean’s house for spot prawns provided by Jean and other snacks provided by the other boaters.  Jean is being assisted by a young couple, Dave and Jam for the time being.  Lagoon Cove has been on the market for some time and Jean has accepted an offer from a company that intends to continue the marina and fuel dock operation.

May 8, 2016 – Mother’s Day to Pierre’s Echo Bay

Ted and Patrick had set out prawn pots soon after we arrived, but the wind reappeared and it was not safe to retrieve them that evening in the rain.  The next morning the winds were still more than 25 knots, but Ted and Patrick were able to get the pots up and we had more than 100 nice sized spot prawns in just one of the pots.  Due to technical difficulties, the other two pots only had a few spot prawns,

Low Tide at Lagoon Cove

The commercial season starts in just a few days, so that is probably our last prawns until Alaska.

We departed Lagoon Cove at 1102 under sunny skies, but windy conditions.  As we headed west in Knight Inlet the winds and seas continued to build, reaching more than 40 knots. 

The True Wind in Knight Inlet, moire than 40 knots

Pierre’s is normally packed with yachts during the summer, not know

Spirit enjoying the solitude of an empty marina

All the work of several days ago to remove salt spray was negated in just a few minutes.  The winds, seas and currents combined to make for a sloppy transit of Spring Passage, but the seas smoothed out as we headed up Cramer Pass and docked at Pierre’s Echo Bay.  We were the only visiting boat.  The store was closed, the power was not yet on, nor the wifi.  The store has been repainted inside and a new deck extension has been added to the pavilion.  Nonetheless we were treated to a sunset bugle concert from Don and Karen, the caretakers while Pierre is in Port McNeill.  The sound of Taps floating out over Echo Bay was beautiful and haunting as Mother’s Day came to a close.

May 9, 2016 – to Port McNeill

The wind abated overnight and at 0747 we eased gently from the dock at Pierre’s and worked our way back down Cramer Pass to Arrow Passage and across to Donegal Head on Malcom Island.  The large ebb tide slowed us to a crawl for about one hour, with our speed over the ground down to 2.4 knots at one point.

After finally rounding Donegal Head and entering Cormorant Channel, our speed picked up and we docked at North Island Marina in Port McNeill at 1137.  We have travelled 338 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes.

A parade of Roche Harbor Yacht Club yachts followed us in, a separate flotilla also heading to SE Alaska.  Everyone was washing the salt off from their experience in Johnstone Strait and buying last minute provisions before heading to Cape Caution and beyond.  We chose to remain in Port McNeill at least one day longer to allow the weather to improve.

We celebrated the end of this part of the voyage with Ted and Lisa Marx at the Northern Lights Restaurant followed by an epic game of Mexican Train.

May 10, 2016 – Port McNeill

The RHYC yachts began leaving before 0700 as Ted spent the morning washing the salt off of Spirit and then all of us drove to the Port Hardy Airport so Ted and Lisa could pick up their rental car.  Miriam and I stopped at the IGA on our return and picked up enough fresh produce to last until Ketchikan.

After a burger at Gus’s Bar and Grill we said our goodbyes and returned to Spirit to finalize our preparations for crossing Cape Caution.  By 0800 in the morning we will be out of cell phone range until we approach Prince Rupert. in about one week.

Shoal Bay to Port McNeill Part One

By on May 7, 2016 in Spirit

May 5, 2016

High Slack tide at our next tidal rapid, Greene Point, was at 1552, so we left Shoal Bay at 1500 under sunny skies.  We transited Greene Point Rapids right at slack water and headed down Chancellor Channel in brisk winds.  Turning into Wellbore Channel we transited Whirlpool Rapids with a 5 knot push behind us.  The original plan was to spend the night at Forward Harbour and then on to Port Harvey the next day.  
Patrick made the call to continue since Sunderland Channel looked OK.  However, when we got to Johnstone Strait the conditions deteriorated with short steep seas and winds steady at 35 knots, gusting to 41 knots.  The seas were accentuated by the ebb tide now strongly flowing against the wind.  The tide rips in this area are well known and we endured the slamming and spray for less than one hour before the winds began to decrease and the seas calmed down.  Somewhere after the seas built up, the portside ball fender went over the side, still attached, and as the waves hit it the fender would appear airborne well above the bow rail.  By the time we reached the Broken Islands the winds were down to 15 knots and the seas were calm.  We pulled into Port Harvey and shut the engines down at 2030, with still plenty of daylight.

The wreckage from the sinking of the barge (with the store and Red Shoe restaurant) is beginning to get cleaned up and George Cambridge has a new float which will have the octagonal tent from North Island Marina as a temporary gathering place as George and Gail rebuild.

The barge has been refloated and a new float for the tent is in place
Since it was Cinco de Mayo, we had chicken enchiladas for dinner and then called it a night, saving the washing of the salt off the boat for the next day.

Even with the rebuilding, there are plenty of scenic views in Port Harvey
May 6, 2016

By sunrise the two other boats in Port Harvey had departed for Port McNeill, everyone trying to get across Cape Caution while there is relatively good weather.  The gales in Johnstone Strait do not extend to Cape Caution and yachts are crossing every day according to AIS.  The sun came out, still breezy, and we washed the salt off Spirit from yesterday’s excitement.  By early afternoon two more yachts had joined Spirit in Port Harvey.

With several more yachts on the dock we had an impromptu potluck on Spirit, with steaks, spot prawns, steamed asparagus, salad and roasted potatoes, followed by ice cream sundaes.  Meanwhile the wind continued to howl from the NW in Johnstone Strait.

Pender Harbour to Shoal Bay

By on May 5, 2016 in Spirit

May 3, 2016Our 0500 planned departure for Princess Louisa Inlet was delayed since we were all tired and the wind and rain made a departure before daylight less than appealing.  Several hours later we checked the weather forecast, which had deterio…