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The skies were clear and the winds light as we decided what to do.  Spirit needed rinsing from the crossing the day before, oysters needed to be purchased on Granville Island at “The Lobsterman”, and some specialty spirits awaited at the Coal Harbour Liquor Store, close to the finish of the Vancouver Marathon.  We also planned to partake of “Tappy Hour” at Provence Marinaside later in the afternoon.

The weather continued to be clear and sunny, with just enough breeze to keep the temperatures comfortable, so snagging an outside table at the restaurant was a pleasant choice.

Supper later on was in courses between rounds of Mexican Train, and we had the ray oysters purchased earlier in the day, along with shrimp and salad and a fresh baguette.

May 2, 2016

Another sunny day greeted us as we filled the tanks with water and cast off the lines at 0800.  Heading out False Creek we prepared to put the Grady White in tow outside the Granville Street Bridge and realized we had not returned the key fobs, so at 0820 Patrick ran back to the marina in the tender while Miriam, Ted and Lisa continued on course to Pender Harbour.  

Patrick’s round trip took about 45 minutes due to the 5 knot speed restriction in False Creek, but shortly after 0900 the tender was back alongside and Spirit continued north to Pender Harbor under sunny skies and calm seas.

Entering Pender Harbour we brought the tender back alongside and anchored in Gerrans Bay at 1442, having covered 46 nautical miles.  Following a tour of Pender Harbour in the tender, under warm sunny skies, we then grilled pork chops marinated in pineapple habanero sauce for our main course. 

Rainbow over Pender Harbour before the rain began

Later that evening, the wind shifted to the north and the rain began, sometimes hard.

April 29, 2016

With only a relatively short day ahead of us, we departed Roche Harbor at 0950 and transited the short distance across Haro Strait and into Port Sidney Marina where we cleared Canada Customs by phone.  At 1135 we cast off the lines from the customs dock and headed to Ganges.  Our plans to see Miriam’s cousin Dean Sevold were changed when he had to cancel, but since we were already close to Ganges, but too late to divert to Vancouver, we continued on.

The wind suddenly increased to nearly 20 knots as we pulled the Grady White alongside and moored at Ganges Marina.  We were pleased to see Frank and Kathy Montgomery also there on the Selene 55, Rendezvous, so plans were quickly made to share our chicken enchiladas with chile verde with them in an informal potluck on Spirit.

We did some basic provisioning in Ganges, saving the major items of produce and meats until we reached Vancouver.

April 30, 2016

We had planned for a relatively early departure from Ganges to ride the morning flood tide to Vancouver, so at 0730 we departed quietly under sunny skies.  Heading up Trincomali Channel to Porlier Pass we entered Georgia Strait at 0940.  The calm waters of Trincomali were replaced by 10-15 knot winds from the northwest and 2-3 foot chop from the same direction, putting the seas nearly on the beam for the 22 nautical mile crossing to Burrard Inlet.  The stabilizers got a workout as we altered course to stay clear of the Vessel Traffic System lanes.  With the northwest wind, Burrard Inlet and English Bay were exposed and choppy as we pulled the Grady White alongside and threaded our way through the windsurfers, sailing races, kayaks and paddleboarders and people ferries into False Creek

.

Spirit was alongside the dock at Quayside Marina with the engine shut down at 1339.  We have traveled 99 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes.  After checking in, the four of us walked to Costco and reprovisioned before returning to Spirit where we enjoyed the balance of the day soaking up the sun.  We capped off the evening with a Danish open faced sandwich smorgasbord, served in courses starting with pickled herring, then meats, followed by shrimp and avocado and finishing with a selection of cheeses, all done on buttered pumpernickel bread.  Each course finished with a “skol” of aquavit.  Finally,we then ended with a marathon game of Mexican Train.

After a shakedown cruise attending the 2016 Selene Owner’s Rendezvous in Roche Harbor, we returned to Anacortes and put on the last few items of gear and food for the first part of our trip north.  We have our friends Lisa and Ted Marx joining us for the first several weeks as we make our way to Port McNeill.

At 1145 we cast off the lines in Anacortes Marina and headed to Cap Sante Marina to top off the main fuel tank and spare fuel for the tenders.  Once again we are towing the 18 foot Grady White, now making its 4^thtrip to SE Alaska at the end of a towline.  By 1230 we had added 370 gallons of diesel fuel, so with the Grady White in tow we set off westbound in Guemes Channel, riding the ebb tide to boost our speed.

By 1615 we had the lines attached to a nearly deserted “G” dock in Roche Harbor, our destination for the evening.  The four of us had a pleasant dinner at McMillin’s Restaurant, the only choice in Roche Harbor this time of year.

January 8 – Salisbury Plain and Albatross Island

At dawn we reached our destination, which was barely visible in the mist, rain and fog. The swell was significant, and the wind was gusting to 40 knots. The Captain looked for a lee, and for a while it did not look good. Then the wind lessened and the Seabourn Quest moved closer to the Salisbury Plain and the immense King Penguin rookery, with 750,000 breeding pairs spread out over the hillsides and level ground between two glaciers. The penguins shared the beach with southern fur seals, elephant seals and opportunistic Great Petrels, Skua’s, Kelp Gulls and even some Terns. Even from the ship we could hear the cries of the King Penguins, sounding like wind moaning in the rigging of a ship. The surf was too high for a safe landing, so we cruised along the shore just outside the surf line. The rain and wind made the experience cold, but visually exciting, even though photos were difficult and poor quality in the flat light and rain

As we departed in the rain and wind, Miriam and I stopped for lunch at the Patio Grill, all wrapped up in blankets and the 34 degree wind whipped around the diehards like us who like the menu, the staff and the ambiance of sitting outside watching the swells pass by the ship and the water sloshing out of the pool.  The Thomas Keller burgers were good, as usual, along with a hot Gluvein wine and a warm rice pudding.

Returning to our stateroom, we both laid down for a nap and woke up barely in time to attend the final recap briefing from the expedition team before going to the Colonnade for a Tuscan buffet, joining Eva and Dave Schoonmaker.  While there we saw what will probably be our last tabular iceberg of the trip, in the distance, but nearly 5 miles long.

The Seabourn Quest continues to rock and roll as we head into a weather system with winds predicted to increase for at least 24 hours as low pressure systems sweep eastward from the Pacific Ocean through the Drake Passage and into the Atlantic. The sun is setting and we can see squall lines on the horizon as the seas continue to build from the west, rolling towards us relentlessly.  At least we no longer have blackout conditions and can leave the stateroom drapes open.

We have finished Antarctica, and it will take some time to digest what we saw. The Chilean fjords seem like a dream from the past, and we will never look at SE Alaska in quite the same way.

January 9 – At Sea

During the night we continued on a direct course for Montevideo.  The wind and seas continued unabated from the west, putting them nearly on the beam. Even a ship the size of ours, even stabilized, rocked, rolled and slammed through the the night. Morning brought partly cloudy skies and swells greater than 5 meters right on the beam.

January 10 – At Sea

Another day of heavy seas, winds and general discomfort as we slogged NW towards Montevideo. Today was the crew epicurean event on the Patio, with foods and drinks from a number of nations. We ended up eating dinner at the Patio Grill rather than changing into “elegant casual” attire. Patrick attended some of the final lectures of the cruise.

January 11 – At Sea

The weather is finally improving, with calm seas and lower winds. Packing for the trip home started. Lunch at the patio grill, a session in the bow whirlpool and the crew farewell with the last formal dinner capped off the evening. We also got a bridge tour.

January 12 – Montevideo

As the sun rose, the Seabourn Quest pulled into the breakwater protecting the harbor. Outside the breakwater was a mass of abandoned and sinking fishing vessels. The ship docked at the commercial port, just a few slips from the Zaandam, which we had last seen cruising in Antarctica several weeks ago.

Our shore excursion started with a bus tour of the city, with several photo stops. We then went slightly out of the city to the Bouza Winery for a tour, tasting and lunch, which turned into a fiasco, with slow service, not enough food and general lack of ability to handle the number of guests. Returning to the ship we gathered for final drinks and chats with our cruising friends of the last 24 days before returning to the suite to finalize packing and leave the bags outside the door.

January 13 – Buenos Aires

Due to a small cruise terminal and several ships, we left the Seabourn Quest at 0745.  We were greeted by the Captain and staff as we left, very moving.

After some minor confusion outside the terminal getting into our private van to the hotel, we entered the lobby of the Park Hyatt about 0830 and then had to wait until 1000 for a room, as there were an equal number of guests checking out to get on the ship for the next voyage. Relaxing on the terrace over coffee we phoned Carlos Ormachea and arranged to meet for dinner. The rest of the day was spent walking in the Recoleta area of the city, visiting the impressive cemetery, churches and then lunch at a German themed restaurant.

Meeting Carlos at 2000, we headed to an Argentine beef restaurant just a few blocks from the hotel and gorged on three different kinds of beef while catching up on 29 years. Returning to the hotel, we sat on the terrace and sipped single malt whiskey and coffee before calling it a night at 1230 am.

January 14, Buenos Aires

After a leisurely breakfast on the terrace of the Duhua Palace (Park Hyatt), we headed to the Estancia Santa Susanna for a day with the Gauchos and another beef extravaganza. Returning to the hotel we found the “Sorrento” Mediterranean Bistro for a light seafood dinner before a nightcap on the terrace of the hotel.

January 15 – Buenos Aires to Dallas

After another lazy morning, a brief tour of the area, we had lunch at a local sandwich shop and then to the airport. The check-in process was slow, but we got to the lounge, found a power outlet that worked and then boarded our American Airlines flight to Dallas.  The 777, while old, was adequate and the crew provided a loaner charger for our iPads. The service was great!

January 16 – Dallas to Vancouver

Our flight landed just as US Customs was opening at 0500.  We did not have to claim our bags; they were transferred directly to the Vancouver flight.  Finding a lounge close to our gate, we were able to use the showers and relax until our flight was called at 0900.  The flight was on-time and uneventful, as was the customs and immigration procedures in Vancouver.

January 7 – Grytviken – South Georgia Island

The first post is some of the wildlife we saw in Grytviken.

Some of the scientists came on board for lectures about their research and life at Grytviken.  Many of them joined us for dinner, which was apparently better than their standard fare at the station, since they only get fresh supplies every six weeks or so.  They consider themselves fortunate, since their compatriots on the Antarctic continent only get supplied once a year. 

January 6 – Cooper Bay – South Georgia Island

The Seabourn Quest arrived at Drygalski Fjord just after dawn. The winds were screaming down the fjord at better than 40 knots, so partway up the fjord the ship made a u-turn and headed for Cooper Bay, just a short distance away.  Finding a lee from both the wind and the swell, shore operations commenced at 0800.  Patrick took a kayak trip and Miriam took a Zodiac tour. There were two kinds of seals, four species of penguins and many seabirds. Getting up close and personal to the Macaroni Penguins was a real thrill, as were the seals coming close to the kayaks and zodiacs to investigate the yellow and orange strangers in their midst. Later in the morning Patrick took his zodiac tour.

 

Cooper Bay as we prepared to tour in Zodiacs

In the afternoon the ship once again tried to go up the fjord, but the winds and seas were still bad, so the ship did scenic cruising up the eastern coast of South Georgia Island, passing many pods of whales, both Minke and Humpback, We were treated to a magnificent rainbow before anchoring for the night in a protected cove. We sat in the Observation Bar before dinner watching as the guests ran from side to side trying to catch the moments on film. We were content to just take it in visually as we sipped our drinks and had caviar appetizers.

January 3, 2016 – Esperanza Station / Hope Bay 63.23S,57.00W

Weather permitting, we will be at our final Antarctic destination tomorrow. The weather is reputably deteriorating so it remains to be seen whether we will actually be able to even take a zodiac tour.

When we got up at 0400, the ship was stopped in fog as the crew decided on what to do for the rest of the day. Finally, at about 0600 we started moving and headed into Hope Bay, where there was little wind at the time. Hope Bay is the location of Esperanza Station, an Argentine outpost manned year round by 55 people.  Patrick had the opportunity to go on a 0700 zodiac tour before his planned kayak tour at 1100.

 No landings were planned, just zodiac tours and kayaking. The captain found a lee in front of a glacier and Patrick was in the first group of 8 zodiacs that went close to shore to see the Adelie penguin colony of more than 60,000 spread out across the hillside near the station.

As his zodiac headed into the beach, the wind began to increase, but still manageable.

Then the wind came up quickly, gusting to more than 40 knots. The seas quickly built and water was splashing over the side of the zodiacs.  In Patrick’s zodiac an Adelie penguin jumped out of the water right into the zodiac and stayed for about 4 minutes. It is on video as well as a picture.

All the zodiacs were recalled, the kayakers were retrieved, and we had a wet return to the ship, with some zodiacs taking waves over the bow. Everyone got back safely and the captain cancelled the rest of the tours, so Patrick was fortunate to get pictures.

The Seabourn Quest departed the Antarctic Sound via Bransfield Strait, cruising past enumerable tabular icebergs as the fog and wind rolled back in. Continuing northeasterly, we set a course for South Georgia Island, 2 days and 900 nautical miles away.

The ship rocked and rolled all night in 30 knot winds and 3 meter seas on the beam and we headed out into the eastern Drake Passage, no longer a “lake”.   During darkness we passed Elephant Island, where Shackleton left most of his crew while he went by open boat to South Georgia Island, also our destination.  The story of his expedition is one of the great stories of seafaring.

January 4 – At Sea

Rough all day, the ship shudders heavily at times. We spent the day attending seminars and cleaning our outdoor gear in preparation for the bio-security checks tomorrow prior to arrival at South Georgia Island. We also worked on sorting pictures. Patrick’s Adelie penguin video has gone viral on the ship.

Tonight was the first night with the ship blacked out.  Lights have been dimmed, covers put over all windows and doors, and the outside decks closed. With the wet, chilly and windy weather not many people have a desire to go out anyway. Even for seasoned mariners the motions were uncomfortable, as well as the sounds of the ship shuddering in the seas.

January 5 – At Sea

As predicted, the winds and seas were even rougher overnight, with many slams and shudders as we headed to South Georgia Island. The ship has slowed to less than 12 knots and we have entered an area with extensive icebergs and brash ice, which combined with the wind, makes for interesting navigation.

We had our bio-security clearance in the morning after photography lectures by the Keough’s in the Grand Salon. Lunch was in the Colonnade with a focus on Pacific Rim cuisine. The wind and seas continue to be Beaufort Force7-8 and occasionally Beaufort Force 9, with rain.  Even so, the Patio Grill was open, with plenty of blankets and “snugglies”.

The evening briefing continued to emphasize the bio-security requirements. The ship has even altered meal hours to have the dining rooms dark before full darkness to minimize bird strikes. All the outside decks are closed and all the windows are covered. We are living in a large white submarine. We expect to arrive at South Georgia Island at 0500 and Patrick is scheduled for a kayak trip at 0700, weather permitting. The sun will rise before 0400, and dawn twilight will be at 0300.

January 2, 2016 – Yankee Harbor 62.32S,59.47W

Overnight we headed north up Gerlache Srait.  Yankee Harbor is only a few miles from Half Moon Island, where we started our Antarctic experiences. However, it is on the Antarctic Peninsula.  The harbor is formed by a large terminal moraine in front of the glacier, which was too shallow for safety with the Seabourn Quest. The ship stayed outside the harbor, maneuvering on thrusters. Yankee Harbor was used by both American and British sealers as early as 1820, and the remnants of some of the try pots are still on the beach, along with a large Gentoo penguin colony.

Patrick went kayaking first thing in the morning, but the wind was brisk and the light flat with low visibility and fog. He did see a berg roll closeup.  With flat light and fog, as well as wind, all other kayak excursions ended up being cancelled.  Returning to the ship and changing clothes for the landing, Patrick then went ashore and toured the colony. The Gentoo penguins here had not yet begun to hatch.  Miriam elected to remain aboard.  Meanwhile, two humpback whales fed and cavorted around the ship. We had hoped to see elephant seals and penguin chicks, but neither were to be found.

The Seabourn Quest left shortly after 1600 and headed north up the Bransfield Strait to our next and last destination before heading to South Georgia Island. Shortly before the 1830 briefing we encountered numerous Humpback whales and the captain stopped the ship so we could enjoy the views. 

January 1, 2016 – Waterboat Point, 64.49S,62.51W

Just a few miles from where had drifted through the night was Waterboat Point, the site of both a Gentoo rookery and the Gonzales Videla Chilean research station, and also the site where two British researchers spent the year of 1921-1922 living under a boat, doing tidal and  penguin research. We were hosted at the station to coffee and treats, and the 22 staff came on board for lunch. We were also able to see our first Leucistic Gentoo Penguin, sitting on it’s nest. 

We had to stay on the concrete paths, but the penguins do not know the rules, so there is guano everywhere.  We had special cleaning procedures with pressure washers on boots and other gear when we returned.  The ship used two boarding platforms on opposite sides of the ship, with clean passengers disembarking on one side and dirty passengers coming back aboard for cleaning on the other side.  All part of the bio-security precautions and to keep the smell out of the ship as much as possible.

Patrick went kayaking at 0720 once again.  This time the kayaks were boarded in the middle of the bay from the zodiacs. The weather alternated between cloudy, rain, sleet and wind by the time the ship departed at 1600.  

Once out of the shelter of Paradise Bay, the winds and seas began to build, with low visibility and rain. By the time we had completed the daily recap in the Grand Salon we were in fog and the winds and seas had moderated as we headed north up Gerlache Strait.  We had reached our furthest point south during the night, 64 degrees 58 minutes South.