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Alaska 2015 – The Final Chapter

Alaska 2015 – The Final Chapter

We have not posted in more than six weeks as we retraced our route over familiar anchorages and marinas.  The weather, by and large, had improved since we have arrived in the Broughton’s, but we still had many days of heavy rain and some wind.  The fishing gear has been mostly stowed away and we are just meandering our way to our home port of Anacortes.  Even new photo opportunities are fewer, but we enjoy the relaxed pace.

August 16, 2015

Port McNeill

August 17, 2015

After two days in Port McNeill, Spirit left the dock and headed north around Malcolm Island and then a rhumb line to Wells Passage across a flat calm Queen Charlotte Strait.  Entering Napier Bay we rafted to Steel Tiger, who we last saw in Sitka.  The weather was overcast, then partly sunny.

August 18, 2015

We fished from the Grady White in Wells Passage near James Point.  Very foggy at first, so the radar was useful.  Discovering a large bait ball, we trolled though it and had immediate luck.  Two humpback whales were also searching for food, so we had to keep clear of them.  We kept 2 Coho, one 11 pounds, one 5 ½ pounds.  Sunny in afternoon.

Afternoon cocktails on Steel Tiger, Napier Bay
Steel Tiger and Teri’s Mink
August 19, 2015

Timing our departure from Napier Bay for slack water in Stuart Narrows, we headed into Drury inlet and rafted to Steel Tiger in Macgowan Bay.

After anchoring we all made a trip up Acteon Passage in the Grady White.  The entire end of Drury is a Rockfish Conservation Area, so no fishing is allowed.  Returning to the raft-up, we found the bottom conditions would not hold the anchors, so both Spirit and Steel Tiger moved locations and anchored separately.

August 20, 2015

We made a trip to Jennis Bay in “Teri’s Mink”, then hunted for Ling Cod.  Wind came up and no luck with fishing.

August 21, 2015

Spirit departed early to hit slack tide at Stuart Narrows.  Steel Tiger headed for Port McNeill and then south.  Spirit re-anchored in Napier Bay and enjoyed the solitude and sunshine.

August 22, 2015

Another sunny day.  Patrick took the Grady White fishing.  Released one Coho and 7 small rockfish

August 23, 2015

Arriving in Sullivan Bay, we fished from dock for halibut, lots of bites.  DFO inspection, we were OK.  Set menu dinner at restaurant of Chicken Alfredo and accompaniments.

General Store at Sullivan Bay,not Safeway!
August 24, 2015

We made the short trip to Pierre’s Echo Bay in sunny weather.

Prime Rib dinner night.  “Seeker” arrived.  We last saw them in Sitka.

August 25, 2015

Travelling just a few miles to Cullen Harbour, we anchored.  Fished, but no luck.

August 26, 2015

Cullen Harbour

Day Fished from Grady White, no luck.

August 27, 2015

Back to Port McNeill for the final time in 2015.

Dinner at Sportsman Steakhouse with Alex Benson (Wild Blue), and Len and Vera from the Selene 53 Chatham II.  Patrick installed a temporary VHF radio to replace a failed wheelhouse unit.

August 28, 2015

Spirit departed for Port Harvey.

Rain, heavy at times.  Reconnected with Montgomery’s on the Selene 55 “Rendezvous”.  We shared a Pizza dinner on board “Spirit”.

August 29, 2015

Port Harvey

Port Harvey Yacht Club annual general meeting.  Only 6 members (3 boats), so election of new officers was deferred until next July.  George and Gail prepared BBQ baby back pork ribs for dinner.  Rain, again heavy at times.

Gail and George with the pork ribs for the PHYC annual meeting
August 30, 2015

Shoal Bay, Cordero Channel

Departed early from Port Harvey to hit high slack tide at Whirlpool rapids and beat predicted winds of 30-40 knots in afternoon.  Intended destination of Thurston Bay was abandoned after circuiting the bay and finding no safe anchorage from the predicted high winds.  Returned to Shoal Bay and rafted to “Magic Moment” (Glenn and Liz Dodge from RHYC), just in front of “Miners Debt” (Tom and Chris Miner, also RHYC).  Rain, heavy at times as we enjoyed the funky “pub” and then a potluck dinner on “Magic Moment”.

August 31, 2015

Dent Island Lodge

Spirit departed Shoal Bay at 1020 for the short run to Dent Island Lodge, timing our arrival at Dent Rapids for low slack water.  By 1215 we were docked.  There were only 8 vessels at the docks.  We had dinner at the “Rapids Grill”, a six course tasting menu, which was very good.

Unusual to see a heron in a tree, Dent Island
September 1, 2015

Dent Island Lodge

Day fishing from the Grady White in the morning.  No luck, but were probably fishing too deep.  Not all boats were catching fish.  Patrick took the Jet Boat ride in the rapids at maximum flood tide in the afternoon.  The whirlpools were amazing and makes one respect the power of the rapids.  The bachelor male Stellar sea lions cavort and fish in the rapids and spend the winter on Jimmy Judd Island.  Dinner was in the main dining room.  Rain, heavy at times.

Jet Boat departing up Canoe Pass to ride rapids

Mermaid Bay with Tug nameboards

Bachelor Stellar Sea Lions, Jimmy Judd Island

Overfall at Arran Rapids
September 2, 2015

Dent Island Lodge

Remained at the lodge for another day, since the weather was heavy rain all day in any event.  A nice lunch at the lodge.

September 3, 2015

Drew Harbour, Rebecca Spit

We headed out from Dent Island at 0800 to make use of the last few minutes of the flood tide in Yuculta Rapids.  Three hours later we were anchored in Drew Harbour (Rebecca Spit), where we viewed a trenmdous rainbow after three days of rain, and then had a nice lunch at the Heriot Bay Inn.  The balance of the mostly sunny day was spent putting away the fishing gear for the season.

Rainbow approaching Rebecca Spit
September 4, 2015

Drew Harbour, Rebecca Spit

September 5, 2015

At 0815 we pulled the anchor from the excellent holding in Drew Harbour and headed directly for Comox Harbour under sunny skies.  We had never crossed the Comox Bar and carefully followed the range marks in, seeing water depths near high tide of 25 feet.  Comox Harbour had good docks, but fairly shallow water, only about 7 feet at zero tide.  After walking the main street, we finally decided on Martine’s Bistro for dinner.  The food and service were both excellent.

September 6-7, 2015

Since we had a 54 nautical mile run to Nanaimo, we departed Comox at 0805 and headed down west of Denman Island, past the large oyster farms near Fanny Bay.  We exited the channel into the Straits of Georgia at the Chrome Island Light and headed directly for Winchelsea Islands.  The Whiskey Golf test range was not active, but we were west of it in any event.  At 1530 we tied up to the Port of Nanaimo Cameron Island docks.

The next day we took a long walk around town, since it was the final day of a three day holiday week end, Labor Day.  We lucked out and were present for the final noontime cannon firing over the harbor.

September 8-9, 2015

The tidal current at Dodd Narrows would not be slack until 1400, and with an 1100 checkout time we decided to go outside and make for either Active Pass or Porlier Pass.  Sea conditions were rougher than expected and we briefly turned around to wait for slack water.  Looking ahead we could see that conditions were improving and once south of Gabriola Pass the winds died and the seas gradually subsided.  Heading into Porlier Pass we bucked a 3 knot current for a mile or so and then calm water all the way to Montague Harbour.  We set the anchor among many other boats at 1520 after a 36 nautical mile trip.

The sunset that night was spectacular!

Sunset in Montague Harbour
We remained in Montague Harbour the next day and soaked up welcome sunshine.

September 10, 2015

Pulling the anchor from the mud in Montague Harbour at 1000, we made the short 8 nautical mile run to Ganges Marina where we docked at 1120.  We had dinner in the sunshine at the “Oystercatcher” restaurant with Miriam’s cousin Dean Sevold and then adjourned to Spirit to catch up on family history.

September 11-12, 2015

We were underway at 0920 from Ganges for the 21 nautical mile run to Roche Harbor.  We crossed the US/Canada boundary at 1130, clearing US Customs by phone with our Nexus Passes.  At 1230 we were moored in the RHYC outstation on “G” dock.  We splurged on dinner at McMillen’s restaurant that evening while watching the sun set and the somber “Colors” ceremony remembering 9/11.

The next day Patrick walked to the distillery and Miriam shopped at Roche Harbor, all in warm, sunny weather.

September 13, 2015

We can only stay two days at the outstation, so at 0900 we departed for the 10 nautical mile run to Parks Bay where we anchored at 1045.  By late afternoon we were joined by 4 other vessels.

September 14, 2015

Spirit traveled to Spencer Spit and anchored close to “Sea Jay”.  We all went to Fisherman’s Bay for dinner in “Sea Eagle”.

September 15, 2015

At 0900 we pulled the anchor for the last time this trip and headed through Thatcher Pass, up Guemes Channel and after re-fueling at Capsante fuel dock, moored at our home port dock in Anacortes Marina.  We were away 146 days, travelled slightly over 3300 nautical miles and caught plenty of fish.  We are already planning for the 2016 trip.

Petersburg to Port McNeill

July 27, 2015

We spent the day in Petersburg, in the rain, of course, which was heavy at times.  Patrick delivered two more boxes of fish to Community Cold Storage, making a total of 7 boxes awaiting shipment back home.

July 28, 2015

Departing Petersburg for the last time in 2015, Spirit headed south down Wrangell Narrows and then east to Wrangell.  The weather was calm, but with heavy rain.  Spirit was moored without incident in Heritage Harbor, Wrangell.

July 29, 2015

After walking to town in drenching rain, which we are getting very tired of, we spent the day relaxing on Spirit and then had an excellent dinner at the Stikine Inn.  The inn provides transportation both ways, so we managed to avoid walking in the rain both ways.

July 30, 2015

Patrick went fishing in the Grady White and returned with another halibut, pretty small at 30 inches, but enough for 4 meals for the two of us.  We sponsored a potluck halibut dinner on Spirit with the Lennon’s and Davidson’s on the Selene 53’s “Tranquility” and “Three Wishes”.

July 31, 2015

After a last minute walk into town for provisions, we departed Wrangell and headed south through Zimovia Strait to Santa Anna Inlet.  We decided to not set prawn pots and enjoyed an evening without rain, although it had rained most of the day.

Old Machinery in Santa Anna Inlet

Fog coming over the trees in Santa Anna Inlet
August 1, 2015

Retracing our northbound route under sunny skies down Ernest Sound to Clarence Strait and into Tongass Narrows, we arrived in Ketchikan to find the docks full.  We spent some time fueling Spirit with diesel, gasoline and propane and then anchored north of Pennock Island.  We had no sooner set the anchor when the harbormaster called with a berth that had opened up in Bar Harbor.  Quickly pulling the anchor we headed into Bar Harbor where we tied up at the end of Float 10.  There was plenty of space, but no power, and the slip was exposed to all the wakes from passing boats and seaplanes, so the tender bounced all over, and even Spirit rolled heavily at times.

August 2, 2015

We played tourist in the rain, which returned overnight, and assessed our provisions for entry into Canada in a few days.  All the chicken was cooked, along with hard boiling the eggs, and potatoes were converted into salad.  That evening we had a great dinner at the Bar Harbor restaurant, which has moved downtown to cruise ship berth 4.

August 3, 2015

We slipped the lines from Bar Harbor in heavy rain at 0810 and headed south down Tongass Narrows.  Stopping near Mountain Point we fished and released three pink salmon.  Continuing south down Revillagigedo Channel we stopped again north of Mary Island and fished for halibut, where Miriam landed a 37 inch fish.  In the process of fishing, Patrick punctured his finger on a dirty halibut hook, but thought nothing of it at the time. Continuing south, we stopped at Foggy Bay for the evening.  By sunset there were five boats anchored in the inner bay.

August 4, 2015

Departing Foggy Bay at 0505, we headed out in rain and had to dodge gillnetters, logs and deal with wind and seas until we were south of Cape Fox.  When Patrick got up, his finger which was punctured had swollen, was oozing pus and looked ugly.  The wind ended, the seas were just gentle swells, but the rain persisted all day.  We docked at Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club at 1335 local time after the 51 nautical mile trip.  After finding out that there were no walk-in clinics in Prince Rupert, Patrick walked the 1 ½ miles to the emergency room at the hospital.  The doctors confirmed a potentially serious bacterial infection which needed IV antibiotics, so an IV line was put in and after the first treatment, Patrick walked back with the IV line still in place, but covered with gauze.  The process for a US citizen is “cash up front” and the emergency room fee is $975 Canadian, but they take Visa.  The whole process took over four hours for the first visit, with two more visits scheduled.  Internet searches revealed that fish and sea water are full of nasty bacteria which can get into the blood stream from fish hook puncture wounds, and can be fatal if left untreated.

Another note:  The city is building a new marina at Atlin Terminal to help the transient moorage situation.  The docks are designed for larger boats (greater than 50 feet), and should be finished by the end of the summer.  The new marina should relieve the tight moorage situation we all deal with, since we all have to clear Canadian Customs at Prince Rupert when southbound.

August 5, 2015

We resupplied Spirit with fresh produce and Patrick made another trip to the ER for another dose of antibiotics via IV.  The finger is responding well, with the swelling and redness rapidly receding.  This time it took only two hours.  Dinner was at the Cow Bay Café, which we highly recommend.  The rain held off for the evening, so we could have eaten on the deck of the restaurant, if it had not already been full.

August 6, 2015

Another rainy day in Prince Rupert.  Patrick’s last visit to the ER only took a little over one hour for the last IV antibiotic infusion, after which the IV was finally removed from Patrick’s left wrist.  The doctor prescribed an additional 7 day course of oral antibiotics, but felt that the aggressive IV treatment was successful.

August 7, 2015

With medical clearance to finally leave Prince Rupert, we pulled out shortly after 0900 and headed out in heavy rain, southbound towards Grenville Channel.  Entering Grenville Channel we were pleased to see that we had cell phone coverage until we were south of Baker Inlet.  The currents were not favorable, and were as much as three times higher than the predicted values, so we did not arrive in Lowe Inlet until 1830, having covered only 58 nautical miles.  But nightfall there were 10 pleasure vessels anchored in Lowe Inlet, with 8 in Nettle Basin alone.

Verney Falls was running hard, Coho salmon were jumping, but we saw no bears this evening.  The Coho were not biting either.

Verney Falls,, Nettle Basin
August 8, 2015

The rain continued overnight and into the morning.  Nonetheless we tried fishing, but with not even a bite, though there were fish jumping all around.  Also, no bears, and according to one boat that had been there all week, there had been no bears for 4 or 5 days.  In mid-afternoon the rain stopped and we went for a photo cruise in the Grady White.  By nightfall there were 10 boats anchored in Nettle Basin, so the parade south has really begun.

August 9, 2015

After a leisurely morning in the rain, we pulled the anchor from the bottom of Nettle Basin and headed out into Grenville Channel.  As we headed south into Princess Royal Channel the rain lowered visibility to less than ½ mile and we were reminded of the dense fog we experienced going north three months ago.  This time, however, the rain stopped as we approached Butedale, so we could see the continued decay.  There was one boat moored at the remains of the dock, and the vessel following us also stopped there for the evening.  We continued south and entered Khutze Inlet.  Knowing there were several AIS targets in at the head of the inlet and knowing the limited room for anchoring we anchored instead in 60 feet of water on the inside of Green Spit.  We had anchored there in 2010 and by evening we were joined by 5 other vessels.  The winds were calm and the anchorage was very satisfactory.

Butedal continues to deteriorate

Gull in Khutze Inlet, Green Spit

Sailboat emerging from the fog, Khutze Inlet
August 10, 2015

There was patchy fog in the morning, especially further into Khutze Inlet.  To make best use of tides we left at 0905 and continued south down Princess Royal Channel under sunny skies after the fog lifted.  We had timed our arrival at Hiekish Narrows for slack water so that was a non-event since currents can run to 5 knots.  By 1245 we entered and anchored in Bottleneck Inlet.  The sun sent the temperature soaring, so we were soon down to shorts.  Patrick went fishing for Coho, but no luck.  By evening, as we cooked London Broil on the BBQ there were 9 vessels in the inlet.  One of those was “Voyager”, from Long Beach, that had been at anchor at Bottleneck Inlet in May as we headed north.  We had a chance to meet the live-aboard owners in Petersburg several weeks ago.

Spirit anchored among the vessels in Bottleneck Inlet
August 11, 2015

By 0600 four of the vessels had already departed the placid waters of Bottleneck Inlet.  Spirit departed at 0900 for the 45 mile journey to Shearwater.  Finlayson Channel was calm and the tide was favorable, so we headed out into Milbanke Sound to save one hour on the journey.  There was a lot of debris in Finlayson, including some large trees with the root balls apparently still attached floating in mid-channel.  Passing Ivory Point we readied the fishing gear and a few minutes later stopped at Idol point where we caught one Coho and released a small Pink salmon.  By 1630 we were anchored outside the breakwater at Shearwater.  The docks were full, but the anchorage is good and it is free.

Large trees floating in Finlayson Channel
August 12, 2015

After shopping for some fresh produce at the store we pulled the anchor and headed down Lama Passage to Fisher Channel and Fitz Hugh Sound.  We diverted from the deep water route and went down Ward Channel and across to Meay Channel and into a foggy anchorage at Pruth Bay.  There were already nine boats anchored, and by nightfall there were 15.
August 13, 2015

The anchorage had emptied out by 0900, down to 6 boats.  We headed out fishing in the Grady White and returned shortly after noon with another nice Coho.  The sun came out and although the breeze picked up, it was still pleasant.  By evening the anchorage had filled back up with 12 pleasure craft, but there is plenty of room.  The free wifi from the Hakai Beach Institute was suitable for e-mails, but each session is limited to 100 MB of traffic.

August 14, 2015

Although the weather report was not ideal, with the West Sea Otter buoy reading 7.2 feet, the lighthouse reports for Egg Island and Pine Island reported only a low westerly swell, less than 1 foot chop and minimal winds, so at 0715 we headed out from Pruth Bay and down Fitz Hugh Sound.  There were a number of humpback whales feeding in both Pruth Bay and Fitz High Sound, as well as many small sport fishing boats working the shoreline of Calvert Island.  As we cleared the tip of Calvert Island the swell increased, nearly on the beam and we could see a fog bank in the distance.  We kept going and the swells increased to an average of 7 feet, with some twice as high as we passed Egg Island.  We wonder what the definition of a “Low Westerly Swell” is, since it was matching the West Sea Otter readings, which by then had increased to 2.4 meters or 8 feet.  With Cape Caution now only a few miles away we kept going and when 2 miles abeam of the cape we were able to alter course so the swells were now almost directly on the stern.  Surfing down the swells, which gradually diminished as we proceeded, we finally entered Allison Harbor and were anchored by 1425, after a 54 nautical mile day.  The harbor was initially empty, but by early evening there were four of us anchored in the soft mud bottom.  Setting the anchor gently to avoid plowing a channel across the bay, we relaxed and prepared Spirit for the final 36 nautical mile run to Port McNeill in the morning.  There are several hazards in Allison Harbor and we took a picture of one to show the difference at low and mid tide.

Humpback feeding near beach, Pruth Inlet

Reef at low tide, Allison Harbor
Same reef at mid tide, Allison Harbor

August 15, 2015

Since we wanted to maximize the boost from the flood tide southbound in Queen Charlotte Strait we delayed our departure from Allison Harbor until after 0900.  It was a good plan, but the reality was that the boost did not materialize until we were almost at Port McNeill.  What did happen was that the swell we had experienced the previous day had persisted and made Spirit roll for several hours until we could alter course and get the swells directly astern.  However, there was no wind and mostly sunny skies, along with several humpback whale sightings, so it was a pleasant transit to Port McNeill.  We docked at 1405 and found we had just missed Orca Fest, the annual parade and celebration we had seen last year.  We met up with several cruising friends for dinner at Gus’s Pub near the head of the docks and shared fishing stories from the summer cruising season.

Humpbacks in Queen Charlotte Strait
We have now travelled just under 3000 nautical miles since our departure from Anacortes 116 days ago.

Slowly Southbound – Sitka to Petersburg

July 12, 2015

Spirit departed Sitka for the last time in 2015 at 0940.  We departed from our usual route north, instead going up Hayward Strait and Krestof Sound, rejoining Neva Strait at the southern end.  Along the way we caught a large black sea bass, enough for two meals for the two of us.  Retracing our route up Sergius Narrows and Peril Strait we stopped for the night at Saook Bay.  The rain was now heavy.  Anchoring in 125 feet of water over a sticky mud bottom we settled in for the night and cleaned the sea bass.  Later that evening we were joined in the bay by “Mist Cove”, a small cruise ship which we see often.

Eagle snatching a seabass we released
July 13, 2015

The halibut rod and bait had no takers overnight, but we left it out and set one crab pot among the string of commercial pots across the end of the bay.  Although cloudy, the rain held off most of the day.  Our crab pot was empty and the commercial crabbers were also having little luck, pulling some pots up and taking them to other places.

July 14, 2015

Pulling the anchor in heavy rain shortly before 0900 we departed Saook Bay and headed east in Peril Strait.  Taking a small detour we investigated the anchorage in Hanus Bay at Point Moses Cove.  The small cruise ship “Safari Explorer” was anchored there and it looks good if the wind is not too heavy from the SE.  We had timed our departure to hit slack water at Point Lull on Catherine Island to go halibut fishing.  We anchored in our selected spot in rainy, windy, choppy conditions and after 2 hours had landed three halibut (27, 31 and 36 inches) and three rockfish.  The visibility in the rain and low clouds was down to less than one mile as we pulled the anchor and headed to Takatz Bay.
The bay was empty, but soon we were joined by two small cruise ships, the Safari Explorer and “Discovery”, a classic 82 foot wood vessel from Juneau.  The fish we caught were fileted and vacuum sealed, adding another load to our nearly full freezers.
July 15, 2015

After a leisurely morning, watching the passengers on the Safari Explorer kayak around the bay, we headed out shortly before 0900 and soon picked up 2 pink salmon, releasing 2 more and a small king before heading to our fishing spot near Warm Springs Bay.  We soon had 2 pacific cod and 2 more halibut in the boat, one 32 inches and one 37 inches.  The public dock was full at Warm Springs Bay, so we anchored over a hard bottom in the westernmost south arm behind the Selene 47 “Jean Marie” at 1515, in 85 feet of water.  After processing the fish Patrick took a soak in the hot springs.  We were later joined in the south arm by the Selene 53 “Three Wishes”.  Although we had occasional light rain showers, the glimpses of the sun were a welcome sight after so many days with heavy rain.

July 16, 2015

Light rain greeted us as we departed Warm Springs Bay at 0910.  Our intended destination was Red Bluff Bay, but as we headed south, bucking a 2 knot flood tide current, we realized we could be at Gut Bay near slack water.  Heading down another 10 miles we put out the downriggers and immediately started getting strikes.  After 3 hours of fishing we had 8 nice Coho salmon, 2 pinks and 2 large black sea bass.  We had one double header, which made for interesting maneuvers to get the net ready for the second Coho.  Spirit was at anchor in Gut Bay by 1740 in 154 feet of water.  Cleaning and processing the fish took nearly three hours, standing in the heavy rain at the cleaning table on the swim step.  Our freezers are now essentially full, so we may not fish again until we offload our fish in Petersburg for shipment home.

July 17, 2015

The rain was still falling when we left Gut Bay, though now with fog limiting our visibility.  Exiting the bay, the seas got progressively rough as we headed north.  There were a number of vessels heading into Red Bluff Bay, so we continued north and anchored in Takatz Bay.  We tried fishing in the entrance, but no luck, even though the salmon were almost jumping into the boat and schooling up underneath us.  The seas were still too rough for the Grady White to go to the halibut hole.

July 18, 2015

The sun was shining when we left Takatz at 0840.  We had mostly calm seas, mostly sunny skies and little wind as we headed to Portage Bay.  We stopped several times to photograph both Orca and Humpback Whales.  One pod of Orca suddenly surfaced dead ahead and we stopped Spirit as the Orca passed down one side and disappeared astern.  Spirit anchored in Portage Bay at 1705 under mostly sunny skies with light winds from the north.  The west side of the bay is still filled with commercial crab pots.

Orca Pod near Turnabout Island

Orca Pod

Orca Pod
You can see why we stopped dead in the water!
July 19, 2015

0540 came early as we pulled the anchor and departed Portage Bay before maximum ebb current and headed slowly to Petersburg to hit slack water.  A slip was available, but the current was still over three knots as we headed into Wrangell Narrows.  Even with the current, docking was uneventful at the north harbor docks.  By 1000 we were docked and shortly thereafter Patrick contacted the fish processors and shippers. After purchasing shipping boxes, we delivered five 50# boxes to the cold storage plant and made room in our freezers for more fish.  Patrick then changed lube oil on the generator, which we have been running more than normal to keep all three freezers running.

Sea Lions using the buoy for a hotel
July 20-21 – Maintenance stop in Petersburg.  We replaced the exhaust gasket for the third time this trip, although we now have the OEM Cummins metal gasket which was waiting at the Petersburg Post Office.  On Tuesday Patrick took the Grady White to Wrangell to pick up mail, rather than spend two days doing that with Spirit.  It is 40 nautical miles each way, and even with fog the round trip took less than five hours.

The fishing boats are crowding into the processors and the smell is indescribable, but is the smell of money.
Vying for space at the processors in Petersburg
July 22, 2015

At the early hour of 0600 we cast off the lines and joined the parade of vessels exiting Wrangell Narrows northbound at slack water.  After a 75 nautical mile transit we stopped at our halibut hole near Warm Springs Bay and took a 30 inch halibut and a pacific cod aboard, despite windy and choppy conditions.  By 1730 we were anchored in Takatz Bay after a total trip of 81 nautical miles.  Later that evening the rain started, heavy at times.

July 23, 2015

The rain continued all night, but about 1000 Patrick loaded the halibut gear on the Grady White and headed the short distance to the halibut hole.  Anchoring in more than 200 feet of water Patrick soon had his daily limit of two halibut, plus one more Pacific Cod.  The two halibut were 37 and 42 inches long, so we had more than 50 pounds of halibut to process, with a net weight of about 25 pounds.  The rain let up briefly in the afternoon, but returned in the evening.

July 24, 2015

Today was scheduled for Coho fishing, so at 0805 we pulled the anchor from Takatz Bay for the last time this season.  We stopped first south of Gut Bay and after two passes had six Coho salmon in the ice chest, along with two pink salmon.  Deciding to save some of our daily limit for another location, we continued south along Baranof Island and made two passes near Mist Cove.  These Coho did not like to stay on the hook as well, but were somewhat larger than the first location.  Even so, after two passes we had five more Coho salmon on board.  Since it was now after 1600, and we had a lot of processing to do, we headed into Patterson Bay where we finally anchored at 1745.  
Aptly named Mist Cove

Our catch for the day

View up Patterson Inlet
Shortly after starting the cleaning process, the generator ingested a jellyfish into the water intake and we had to shut it down, since the sea strainer was totally clogged with a slimy mess.  Deferring cleaning the strainer until the fish were done, we finally finished the fish about 2030 and the sea strainer after 2100.  It was a late dinner of baked chicken, since neither one of us could face any fish after the lengthy process of fileting, vacuum sealing and freezing we had done for the last two days.  We both felt our mission to get halibut and Coho had been accomplished, so we start the return to Petersburg tomorrow.

July 25, 2015

We had a long run to get back to Petersburg, so the anchor was pulled from the jellyfish infested head of Patterson Bay at 0620.  The run back north across Chatham Strait was under calm seas, little wind and finally sunny skies.  There were numerous whale sightings, both orca and humpback, but none close enough for decent pictures.  Salmon were jumping the entire trip as we passed Kingmill Point and headed into Frederick Sound and our destination for the evening in Cannery Cove, Pybus Bay on Admiralty Island.  We anchored at 1445, having come 58 nautical miles from Patterson Bay.  By now the sunny skies had been replaced with high overcast, but no rain.

Some of the permanent snowfields on the east side of  Baranof
July 26, 2015

Spirit departed Cannery Cove at 0655 under overcast skies.  Heading out into Pybus Bay we had to slow down and thread our way through the numerous humpback whales feeding in the bay and in Stephens Passage.  Most of the time we just looked at the tails, but did get some photos.  It appears that the white tail markings on the humpbacks are all different, just like fingerprints.  This may explain how the biologists can track individual whales from year to year. 

Humpback Whale tail flukes

Unique Patterns

Different Again

No two the same
The top of the flukes all look the same

The differences are on the bottom of the flukes
As predicted, the wind changed to the SE and we could see rain clouds over Petersburg as we headed east Frederick Sound.  Approaching Wrangell Narrows, we had to wait for two tug/barge combinations to exit, then we headed to North Harbor and tied up in stall 32 at 1515, where we had been before.  To our chagrin, we had planned on having pizza at “Papa Bear’s”, but it was closed on Sunday.  We travelled 52 nautical miles today and have put in just under 500 nautical miles since leaving Sitka on July 12.  The rain returned in earnest later in the evening and is predicted to continue the rest of the week.

A month in the Sitka Region – updated

Alaska 2015 Part 9 – Cruising to Hoonah Sound, Sitka and Kalinin Bay

June 10   After Cameron departed we headed out to Kalinin Bay, catching some fish before heading back into Peril Strait and up Hoonah Sound to catch some Dungeness crab before the commercial season opens on June 15.

Bear with two cubs – Kalinin Bay

Not every day had rain – sunset Kalinin Bay
Moser Island – first day of crabbing/prawning was not so good, just a few crab.

Moser Island – second day – found the place for prawns – got our limit.

Kalinin Bay – King Salmon fishing and bear watching.

June 17, Return to Sitka – prepare boat for trip back to Seattle.  We had to arrange for a local “boat watch” while we were gone.  Our processor, Big Blue, had a freezer failure, so we had to buy an additional freezer for the fish we have caught.

June 18-20, 50th Queen Anne High School reunion in Seattle for Patrick.  It was fun catching up with classmates after so much time.  There were 160 classmates from a class of 714 who showed up.  After 50 years it was a little sobering to realize that 90 of Patrick’s classmates had already passed away.

June 21 – We return to Sitka, prepare Spirit for Sean and Margaret and the granddaughters, Josephine and Brita.

Sean and Josie looking at the bear

And the bear looks back

Miriam sharing a bedtime story with Josie
June 22-28 – Sean, Margaret and the grandkids tour Sitka and fish for 2 days in Kalinin Bay, catching 4 King salmon and rockfish.  Josephine now knows were some of her food comes from, watching the fishing and cleaning process with great interest.  Sean and Josephine also got to view a brown bear up close from the tender while in Kalinin Bay.

Sunset near the summer solstice in Sitka Harbor
June 29-July 2 – On our own for a few days.  We headed to Kalinin Bay, but had poor fishing results.  When we return we find that there is a mid-season change in the king salmon limits down to 3 annually effective July 1, so we are finished fishing for king salmon for the season.  Now we are looking for Coho salmon and halibut.

July 2-10, Miriam’s cousin Reidun Crowley and her friend Keith Ackerlund visit.  Fishing is spotty, but King, Coho and a halibut, along with rockfish make their way into our freezer.  Reidum and Keith take home a box of their catch.

Sunriseon Mt. Edgecumbe as we head out fishing

Puffins at St. Lazaria Island
We celebrate an old fashioned 4th of July with fireworks the night before and a hometown parade on the 4th.  We watched the fireworks from Steel Tiger along with Jim and Cheryl Matheson from Sea Jay (they cruised with us to Alaska in 2011).

July 11 – Maintenance day in Sitka.  Dinner at the Channel Club for a farewell to Sitka for the 2015 season.  We retrieved our last fish from Big Blue, who finally fixed the freezer situation as we were leaving.  We will have to ship our catch from Petersburg when we get there.

July 12 – Depart Sitka for the last time this season, heading back through Peril Strait to fish and prawn.  We hope to be in Petersburg in 10 days.  Limited internet and cell phone coverage until Petersburg.

Hoonah to Sitka – The Fishing Begins

May 28 – Hoonah


We decided to spend an extra day in Hoonah and try halibut fishing from the Grady White.  We had no luck!  Jon Liljegren had arranged to have Seafood Chowder prepared at the Office Pub, so we all went there for chowder and beer.

May 29 – Hoonah to Tenakee Springs

Departing Hoonah at 0800 we followed Steel Tiger east in Icy Strait and the south down Chatham Strait.  The skies were clear, but with a brisk NW wind.  At 1410 we docked in Tenakee Springs just behind Steel Tiger.  The crab pots were set in Kadashan Bay and some of us enjoyed the hot springs.

The store has been refurbished inside and is really nice.  There is free wifi at the bakery!

May 30 – Tenakee Springs to Takatz


There were NO crab in our pots the next morning!  Departing Tenakee Springs at 0910  we immediately ran into fog in Chatham Strait, which dissipated as we headed south.  We dropped off prawn pots in Kasnyku Bay and then anchored in Takatz Bay.  Most everyone boarded the tenders and we headed several miles further south to Warm Springs Bay where we hiked to the upper hot springs for a refreshing soak.  The tubs at the docks are new since the last time we used them, and the water is hot!  We carried the martinis up the boardwalk to the upper pools.

Part of the boardwalk at Warm Springs Bay

Enjoying the hot springs and martinis alongside the river
May 31 – Takatz to Rodman Bay

Timing our departure to pick up the prawn pots in Kasnyku Bay and still make high slack tide at a halibut fishing location on the way to Rodman Bay, we found only 9 prawns in the pots.  The fishing was more productive, with Jon Liljegren hooking into a 77 pound halibut, followed by a 10 pounder and a large quillback rockfish.  By 1815 we were anchored in a windy Rodman Bay (sustained winds of 25 knots) and were all invited to an impromptu dinner on Maximo.  Crab pots were set.

Jon Liljegren’s 54 inch 77 pound halibut
Jon and Suzanne enjoying the prawns from Kasnyku Bay
June 1 – Rodman to Kalinin Bay

At 0835 we left Rodman Bay with 14 nice Dungeness crabs and continued west in Peril Strait through Sergius Narrows and on to Kalinin Bay.  After anchoring, we took the Grady White fishing and came back with a king salmon caught in one of the usual places, (Yes, the places are local knowledge, you have to come learn for yourself).

Patrick getting ready to clean the first king salmon of the season
June 2 – Kalinin Bay

We fished from the Grady White and captured 4 more King salmon and 1 Quillback.  The rain continued all day.

Patrick & Jon with the next four king salmon
June 3 – Kalinin to Sitka

Departing from Kalinin Bay at 0700 in the rain, we docked without incidence at Sitka at 1050.  Our oldest son Cameron arrived on time from Helena, Montana on the 1310 flight.  Dinner was a group affair at the Channel Club.

June 4 – Sitka – Maintenance Day

After more than 1500 miles, it was time for oil changes on both the main engine and the generator.  Liljegren’s toured Sitka and Cameron helped with the oil changes.

June 5 – Fishing at Biorka Island


We let everyone sleep in, so the fishing began with a 0610 departure from Sitka, towing Teri’s Mink, the tender to Steel Tiger.  Swells were running 8-10 feet and the winds was steady at 20-22 knots.  The seas calmed in the lee of Biorka Island and both boats began fishing.  We lost 2 fish and finally returned to the dock at 1415.  The rain was heavy at times.

June 6 – Sitka

Patrick and Cameron fished in the Grady at Kalinin Bay without success, except for rockfish.  The rain continued all day.

June 7 – Sitka

Liljegren’s left just before noon, taking the halibut and three king salmon with them.  Patrick and Cameron then fished at Viskari Rocks, and then at Long Island.  Cameron caught his first King salmon.

Cameron with his first king salmon
June 8 – Sitka – Fishing with Big Blue Charters.


The seas offshore were too big for the Grady White, and Spirit would have rolled badly in the 5-10 foot seas, so Miriam, Patrick and Cameron went out on a charter boat from Big Blue Charters, bringing back 1 King and one small halibut, which became dinner.  There was enough halibut fillets to make four more meals, so they were vacuum packed and placed in the freezer.

We have collected 7 king salmon and 3 halibut so far from the combined efforts of Liljegrens and Gills.
June 9 – Sitka

Cameron departed shortly before noon, returning to Helena, Montana, taking home two king salmon.  The rest of the day was spent doing laundry, checking provisions and preparing to depart Sitka in the morning.  We will fish and crab before the commercial crab season begins on June 15, and then return to Sitka on June 17.  No new posts until then since we will be out of cell phone range.

Alaska 2015 – Glaciers and Whales – Petersburg to Hoonah

May 17, 2015 – Petersburg to Portage Bay

We know we have lost a day somewhere, but so what.  This morning we finally departed Petersburg and fought a 5 knot flood tide against us for several miles as we headed out of Wrangell Narrows and up Frederick Sound.  The seas were calm as we motored the short distance to Portage Bay where we anchored about one mile into the bay.  Even one mile in, the peak current was over 2 knots, but he bottom was mud and held well, since Steel Tiger rafted alongside of us.  Our Delta FastSet anchor had no problem at a 4:1 scope holding the combined weight of 135 tons as the current ebbed and flooded during the night.  Crab pots were set, but with no success.  We suspect we were not far enough into the bay.

May 18, 2015 – Portage Bay to Tracy Arm

Both boats departed Portage Bay at 0635 to take advantage of the ebb tide out Frederick Sound and then the flood tide up Stephens Passage to Holkam Bay.  At Cape Fanshawe we encountered a large pod of Orca, then Dall Porpoise near Fife Finger Islands Lighthouse.  Off Windham Bay we encountered humpback whales, which were mostly feeding on the surface.  One came to the surface right in front of Spirit and we had to go into reverse to avoid hitting it.  We just stayed in idle for a few minutes until we were clear of the whale.

Part of the large pod of Orca

We almost ran into this one

Lots of tails, no breaching

Just another humpback tail

Foot shaped rock on Entrance island, Holkam Bay

Brown bear on the beach, No Name Cove

 Crossing the bar at Holkam Bay, we entered No Name Cove (also known as Tracy Arm Cove).  There was a solitary brown bear on the beach when we arrived.  Spirit rafted to Steel Tiger.  We took Steel Tiger’s tender from the anchorage up Tracy Arm to assess the ice conditions for the next day.  We turned around at mile 15 since the ice was easily navigable.

May 19, 2015 – Tracy Arm

We broke up the raft at 0750 and headed up Tracy Arm.  Stopping at Ice Falls for photos we shortened the tow lines on the tenders and continued up the arm, easily dodging the sparse ice.  Passing Sawyer Island we reached to within ¼ mile of the South Sawyer glacier face about noon.  Shutting off the engine, we just drifted for several hours and watched the calving and listened to the noise the glacier made.  We returned to the cove and anchored separately at 1715.
Looking up the “S-Curvess”

The icebergs are constantly changing

Finally – South Sawyer Glacier

Calving every few minutes

This one set up a large wave from the face

May 20, 2015 – Tracy Arm to Taku Harbor

Spirit departed Holkam Bay behind the cruise ship “Star Princess” at 0850, and after an uneventful trip, docked at the public dock in Taku Harbor at 1255.  The crab pots were set and by evening we had 2 large Dungeness crab.  The harbor was windy, so we were glad to be at a dock.  There is also another public float, not connected to shore further south in the harbor.  Several humpback whales entered the harbor and provided entertainment during the evening.

Departing Holkam Bay behind the Star Princess

Abandoned building – Taku Harbor

Public dock – Taku Harbor

The last of the squat lobsters became cocktails

Harry Johnson’s famous crab spaghetti
May 21, 2015 – Taku Harbor to Auke Bay

After pulling the crab pots, with 6 more legal crabs, we headed for Auke Bay.  Leaving Taku we were treated to a breaching humpback whale.  We were able to get on the inside of the breakwater and shut off the engines at 1220.  After picking up the rental van from Juneau Car Rentals, we picked up Steel Tiger’s guests at the airport.  All eight of us headed for Mendenhall Glacier, Costco and then Alaskan Brewing, before returning to the boat.  We grilled steaks to celebrate the last night with Bob & Dianne Tucker before taking them to their hotel in downtown Juneau.  They will continue to travel to Anchorage and Homer before returning to Anacortes.  Juneau was very warm, with most people in short sleeved shirts and many in shorts.

Taku whale show

May 22, 2015 – Juneau

After a leisurely group breakfast of blueberry waffles and homemade German sausage we all piled back in the van and headed to downtown Juneau where we dropped of the Tucker’s at their hotel and then spent several hours mingling with the thousands of cruise ship passengers browsing the jewelry stores, souvenir shops and Alaskan Native art shops.  By now it was lunchtime, so we headed for the Red Dog Saloon where we managed to get a booth with no waiting time.  The sawdust on the floors, the server’s costumes, the piano player and the décor all attempting to recreate a Gold Rush era saloon atmosphere.  The beer was good (Alaskan Amber) and the food passable for pub fare, so we had a good time.  Leaving downtown, we headed back to the airport where we picked up our friends, Jon & Suzanne Liljegren.  After a stop to pick up fishing licenses we repeated the tours of Mendenhall Glacier, Costco, Alaskan Brewing and then Safeway for some last minute provisions before returning to Auke Bay.  We had a “welcome aboard” BBQ and enjoyed the warm, sunny evening.

May 23, 2015 – Auke Bay to Swanson Harbor

After returning the rental van we said goodbye to Auke Bay for 2015 and left the dock at 1030 for the 30 nautical mile run to Swanson Harbor.  Heading around the north end of Admiralty Island past Point Retreat we encountered windy, choppy seas in the southern Lynn Canal.  As we headed south the seas and wind gradually slackened and it was mostly calm as we entered Swanson Harbor and found space at one of the two public floats, docking at 1445.  By evening the floats were full of people coming out from Juneau to celebrate the Memorial Day weekend.  Crab pots were set in the usual locations, but were empty at the evening check.

May 24, 2014 – Swanson Harbor to Glacier Bay

Patrick picked up the crab pots, there were only 2 legal crab in the pots, and Spirit tossed off the lines at 0702 and we headed to Bartlett Cove, Glacier Bay.  Just outside Swanson Harbor we observed a number of Sea Otters, which may explain the lack of crab in the harbor, since they can decimate the crab population quickly.  We crossed the boundary at 1100 and after getting permission, docked in Bartlett Cove at 1224.  We all visited the lodge, watched the movie, and then the skipper’s orientation at 1400, where we signed the logbook.  Both Spirit and Steel Tiger departed Bartlett Cove at 1455 and by 1830 we were rafted alongside Steel Tiger in North Sandy Cove.  Along the way we stopped at South Marble Island and viewed the massive colonies of Stellar Sea Lions and looked for Puffins, to no avail.

Stellar Sea  Lions, South Marble Island

May 25, 2014 – Marjerie Glacier

After a leisurely departure from North Sandy Cove at 0810, we headed north and stopped just short of Tidal Inlet to photograph Mountain Goats.  We proceeded up Tarr Inlet, passing to the east of Russell Island and directly to Marjerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers.  We had to share the glacier views with the “Star Princess” for a while, but then it departed and we had the glacier face to ourselves.  Marjerie Glacier is very active, with some calving every few minutes.  Patrick collected some glacial ice and then we headed to Blue Mouse Cove.  We spent nearly two hours enjoying the sounds and sights at the glacier face.

Mountain Goats, Glacier Bay near Tidal Inlet
Cormorants Hitching a ride

Majerie Glacier comes into view

The Star Princess is dwarfed by the glacier face

Calving – Oftne

The rivers of ice stretching into the Fairweather Range

The Fairweather Range makes cruise shiips look tiny

A final calving as we leave Marjerie Glacier
Our haul of glacial ice from Glacier Bay

Departing the glacier at 1600 we headed back down Tarr Inlet, passing west of Russell Island, passing the entrance to John Hopkins Inlet, past Lamplugh Glacier, Reid Glacier and finally anchoring in Blue Mouse Cove where Steel Tiger rafted alongside Spirit.  As the sun set we were treated to great views of the Fairweather Range and portions of the Brady Icefields.

Skinny Moose on the beach, South Finger Bay

Brady icefields from Blue Mouse Cove
May 26, 2015 – Blue Mouse Cove to South Finger Bay

At 1000 we broke up the raft and by 1220 both boats were anchored in South Finger Cove.  Jon and Suzanne took the tender out to the other side of the bay near Tidal Inlet to photograph more Mountain Goats.  We put prawn pots down in Berg Bay and had to dodge Humpback whales both in Berg Bay and in the entrance to South Finger Bay.  There were hundreds of sea otters floating at the mouth of the bay, many with babies on their chests.  Our halibut fishing expedition was unsuccessful, but the Steel Tiger crew landed one nice halibut.  Returning to the bay, we watched two skinny moose wander down the beach right behind the boat.

May 27, 2015 – Glacier Bay to Hoonah

Spirit pulled the anchor at 0750.  Patrick and Jon took the Grady White down to Berg Bay to retrieve the prawn pots and Miriam and Suzanne drove Spirit behind them.  We got about 2 dozen, a disappointing haul, but enough for an appetizer.  Heading out of Glacier Bay, we checked out of the park with Bartlett Cove and headed to Hoonah.  The wind peaked to 22 knots and the seas to 4 foot as we headed back east in Icy Strait.  Heading up Gedney Channel we were treated to more Humpback whales and a rock covered with Bald Eagles.  We docked at the transient float in Hoonah at 1440 and after checking in, refueled the Grady White and refreshed our produce at the Hoonah Trading Company.  We have decided to stay an extra day in Hoonah so we can fish for halibut in the morning.

Sunny evening in Hoonah Harbor

Eagle Rock

Chickens Wander the streets in Hoonah

Alaska 2015 – Ketchikan to Petersburg

May 9, 2014

The day was spent sightseeing around Ketchikan.  A surprise from previous visits was the $5.00 per person charge to even walk the outside grounds at Saxman Village and still not be allowed inside the longhouse, which is reserved for cruise ship passenger shows.  Completing provisioning and purchasing Alaska fishing licenses took part of the afternoon.  That evening we met up with Mike and Susie Miner (Seeker), Tucker’s and Johnson’s for dinner at the Cape Fox Lodge.

May 10, 2015

Steel Tiger and Spirit left City Floats shortly after 0800 and headed to the fuel docks.  Our preferred fuel dock was unavailable due to a fuel barge offloading fresh fuel, so we used Petromarine.  Prices were surprisingly close to those we paid in Anacortes for similar quantities.  Spirit took on 635 gallons of fuel.  By 0900 we were all underway once again under clear skies.  Heading north up Tongass Narrows, past Caamano Point, we followed the shoreline up Clarence Strait until turning in at Meyers Chuck.  By this time the clear skies had turned into rain, the public dock was full and the anchor would not set.  Since we suspected the art gallery would be closed this early in the season we agreed to continue on to Santa Anna Inlet. The Meyers Chuck dock has been transferred from the state to Wrangell Borough, which now must repair/replace the dock.  Wrangell’s intentions are to start charging for moorage July 1 at the rate of 0.20$/ft/night, which is really nominal.  The rain quit as Steel Tiger anchored first and Spirit rafted alongside.  The prawn pots were set and we enjoyed the now sunny, but breezy weather.

May 11, 2015 – Santa Anna Inlet

The morning check of Spirit’s prawn pots yielded about 7 dozen large spot prawns and great quantities of squat lobsters, with Steel Tiger’s pots doing about the same.  Even though there is not much meat on each squat lobster, only about the tip of your little finger, the meat is tender and sweet.  We cooked everything up and had a feast on the back deck of Steel Tiger.

Some of our Squat Lobsters

Enjoying prawns on the aft deck of Steel Tiger
May 12, 2015 – Santa Anna Inlet to Wrangell

The morning check of Spirit’s prawn pots yielded 10 dozen large spot prawns.  After processing them, both boats left Santa Anna Inlet at 0800.  Our route was through Zimovia Strait.  By 1325 the engine was off in Wrangell’s Heritage Basin where we reconnected with the Lennon’s on the Selene 53 “Tranquility”.  The balance of the day was spent touring Wrangell and looking for a new trim tab pump for the Grady White, with no success.  Larger cruise ships now come into Wrangell, like the “Seven Seas Navigator” with 450 passengers, so there were a lot of people walking around downtown.

May 13, 2015 – On to Petersburg

Slack water in Wrangell Narrows required a 0500 departure from the dock.  Under sunny skies and calm seas we had an uneventful transit of Wrangell Narrows and were tied up in Petersburg at 1030 am.  We were assigned a slip in North Harbor on the docks which were new last year.  The town is preparing for The “Little Norway Festival” or Norwegian Independence Day celebrations, which begin today and run through Monday.  Patrick searched for a replacement trim tab pump and actually found one, which was delivered to the harbormaster’s office early in the evening.

May 14, 2015 – Le Conte Glacier

After breakfast and installing the new trim tab pump, a group of 8 of us (Gill’s, Johnson’s, Tucker’s and Jim & Christie Caldwell) headed out on a 4 hour jetboat tour of Le Conte glacier, the southernmost tidewater glacier in the US.  On the way we saw a humpback whale.  The ice was thick at the upper end of the fjord, so we were only able to get within ¾ mile of the face, but it was still spectacular.  There were a number of seals on the ice floes getting ready to calve, which should happen any day.  Returning to Petersburg we had “dinner” at one of the celebration beer gardens while some of the contests were still going on.  Most of the contests seemed to involve tossing herring into targets.  We were still a little hungry, so we hurried to Papa Bear’s Pizza before they closed at 8PM and shared a “Carnivore” pizza.

Bald Eagle on a berg – Le Conbte
Le Conte Glacier from 3/4 mile away

The ice floes we pushed through on the jet boat

Curious Seals 

Our tour group
May 15, 2015 – Parade Day

The festival continued with several blocks of the main street blocked off.  There were all kinds of food booths, arts and crafts and finally a parade followed by a “herring toss” competition, open to all.  Beer gardens were set up in several locations, there was live entertainment in the evening and everyone seemed to be having a great time in the warm sunny weather.

School children in Festive Norwegian clothes

The Viking longboat

Herring flying through the air during the herring toss

We will be in Petersburg until Sunday afternoon, then on to Juneau via Tracy or Endicott Arms, so no internet until May 21.

Farewell to Petersburg

Alaska 2015 – On to Ketchikan

May 4, 2015

After pulling the pots (8 crab, 57 prawns) we headed into Lama Passage and stopped for one hour at Shearwater to fix a problem with one of the fishing licenses, take on water and some provisions.
Heading out Seaforth Channel we nosed out past Ivory Island and ran into a big westerly swell made worse by an ebb tide.  Both boats called it quits and turned back to go up Reid Passage, Perceival Narrows and then Oscar Passage to Finlayson Channel.  Our destination for the evening is Bottleneck Inlet, a bombproof anchorage with good mud for holding.
While underway the crew of Spirit cooked and cleaned the crab and prepared crab mac & cheese for a late dinner after a long day, with pouring rain most of the day.  At 1930 we rafted alongside Steel Tiger and hoisted the cocktail flag and then dinner.

The rain continued all night long.

May 5, 2015

Since we have only 30 miles to go today, we broke up the raft at 0945 and headed out the inlet.  At a +5 ft. low tide we only had 15 feet in the shallowest part of the entrance, so the charts are correct.

The trip through Heikish Narrows and Princess Royal Channel was uneventful from a weather standpoint, since the sun came out, but still occasional rain showers.  We saw our first humpback whale of the season, and the first black bear on the beach as we entered Khutze Inlet.  The anchorage in front of the falls was empty.  The greenery was the most we have ever seen, so spring arrived early.

First Black Bear sighting of the season
We made a short trip up the Khutze River until the water was too shallow to go further, but only saw seals and lots of moss on the trees.

Spirit and Steel Tiger in Khutze Inlet

Trees with more moss than needles

Some of the bountiful crab in Khutze Inlet
After setting the crab pots we relaxed and prepared for our Cinco de Mayo celebration with Steel Tiger.  About 1830 we pulled the pots and were pleasantly surprised at the number of legal crab.  We kept the 12 largest and released 18 others.  Steel Tiger did the same.

May 6, 2015

Departing Khutze Inlet at 0800 we immediately ran into dense fog in Princess Royal Channel which persisted to about 5 miles beyond Butedale.  The sun came out with a light breeze as we exited Princess Royal Channel, crossed Wright Sound past Gribbel Island and entered Grenville Channel.  With the current assisting us, we changed the destination from Lowe Inlet to Baker Inlet.

The favorable current ended as we approached Klewnuggit Inlet and the tide was more than 2 hours past high slack water as Spirit entered Watts Narrows, the entrance to Baker Inlet.  The current was about 3 knots against us, and all the GPS receivers on board lost lock in the middle of the 1000 yard long by 200 foot wide channel.  Pushing on through, followed by Steel Tiger, we both went to the head of the inlet and rafted together for the evening.  Steel Tiger reported the bottom was sticky black mud as they anchored.

Fog begins to lift in Princess Royal Channel

Cruising to the head of Baker Inlet
May 7, 2015

Both boats departed Baker Inlet shortly before 0600.  The high slack water occurred at 0400, so Watts Narrows was running at full ebb by the time we arrived at 0625.  It was a wild ride out, sharing the narrow fairway with logs also heading out.  Sometimes full rudder was required to keep Spirit in the middle of the channel as the strong eddies tried to move us all over.  After a successful exit, both crews decided that doing that again at other than slack water would not be a good idea.

Proceeding up Grenville Channel, we contacted US Customs and got permission to anchor in Foggy Bay for the evening.  Entering Chatham Sound, the wind remained light with nothing more than a 1-2 foot swell as we headed for the Green Island Lighthouse and then across Dixon Entrance to Foggy Bay.  The wind and seas were as calm as we have ever seen, so by 1445 we had crossed back into US waters and at 1620 were anchored in Foggy Bay.  Shortly after Steel Tiger rafted alongside and after an early dinner we all retired for the final push to Ketchikan.

We have now covered 655 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes on April 22.

May 8, 2015 – Final Leg to Ketchikan

Pulling the anchor from Foggy Bay at 0700 we headed out in glassy calm seas north up Revillagigido Channel and after an uneventful trip docked at City Floats at Ketchikan at 1210.  Bob and Dianne Tucker met us shortly after docking.  They will be with us until Juneau.  The skies were sunny, the temperature warm enough for shorts and after rinsing the salt off the boat we headed out sightseeing in a rental car, stopping at Totem Bight and Settler’s Cove before returning for cocktails on the dock in the sun.

Another beautiful evening in Foggy Bay

Totem peeking out of the trees in Totem Bight
The details are incredible!

Eagle and Raven

Totem in Totem Bight

The Johnson’s and Tucker’s at Settler’s Cove

This time of year the skunk cabbage is prolific
“Docktails” at City Floats, Ketchikan

We covered 691 nautical miles reaching Ketchikan.  We will depart Sunday for points north.

Southbound from Port McNeill

August 23 to September 10, 2014

The now familiar route south from Port McNeill and eventually to the homeport in Anacortes held few surprises.  Taking our time, spending several days in each location brought a welcome end to the routine of getting up early to either fish or make use of the tides.  The improving weather was enjoyable after the rainy SE Alaska summer.  Our route included Port Harvey, Mound Island, Thurston Bay, Dent Island, Rebecca Spit, Pender Harbor and now Montague Harbor.

Even the fishing was more relaxed, with several more Coho Salmon brought aboard our now full freezers.  We also enjoyed an informal rendezvous with five other Selenes at Dent Island the end of August.

We are now at anchor in Montague Harbor and will visit Miriam’s cousin Dean Sevold in Ganges tomorrow.  We intend to clear back into US waters on Thursday.

We never tire of watching the marine life, always something new and interesting.

Gull in Thurston Bay

Pacific Whiteside Dolphin Nodales Channel

More Gulls

Orca in Johnstone Strait

By the time we arrive back in Anacortes, Spirit will have covered more than 1000 nautical miles since leaving Ketchikan on August 6, and approximately 2860 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes on May 15.

Alaska 2014 – Wrangell to Port McNeill

August 1, 2014

Since we did not have to be in Ketchikan until August 4 we spent the day in Wrangell, finished off with a potluck dinner hosted by Dance’s on Peregrine, with Lennons from Tranquility and Millers from Hathor.  Doug and Karen Dance had prepared black cod for the main course, which was delicious.  We ate al fresco on the fly bridge in warm and sunny weather.

August 2, 2014

Spirit left Heritage Basin in Wrangell for the last time in 2014 at 0935 under sunny skies.  Heading south through Zimovia Straits we anchored at 1435 in Santa Anna Inlet where Patrick placed a single prawn pot near the entrance.  By evening we had several dozen large spot prawns.

August 3, 2014

Under sunny skies we raised the anchor at 0800 and headed for Ketchikan, stopping to fish at several locations, but with no luck.  Cruising by Meyers Chuck, we could see it was full, so we continued down Clarence Strait, stopping several times to drag lines in the water, again no luck. We finally docked in Bar Harbor, Ketchikan at 1740 and were greeted by our normal rain showers.

Patrick walked to Thomas Basin, about 2 1/2 miles away and visited with “Coccinelle”, the dismasted French sailboat, who were planning to cross Dixon entrance the next day.
August 4, 2014

We spent the day on maintenance and cleaning in preparation for the arrival of Dianne and Bob Tucker the next day, while watching the “Duck Tours” splash down the launching ramp in front of our slip, each one playing the theme song from Gilligan’s Island as the Ducks departed for the harbor tour.

August 5, 2014

The day started out sunny, but we still had some rain during the day.  Tuckers arrived on schedule in the late afternoon, and after a sightseeing walk downtown we returned to Spirit for a grilled King Salmon dinner.  The evening finished with a quick trip to Safeway for some last minute items, just enough to get us across the border to Prince Rupert and still be legal on vegetables, fruit and alcohol.

August 6, 2014

We departed Bar Harbor at 0645 for the last time in 2014 and headed for Anderes Oil to top off the fuel for the trip south.  The harbor and docks were full of seiners and tenders, but we squeezed in astern of a large tender and put on 350 gallons of diesel fuel before heading down Tongass Narrows.  Reaching Mountain Point we slowed down and put the fishing lines in the water and soon had several Coho salmon in the boat, as well as several Pink salmon.  The fishing cooled off and we continued down Revillagigedo Channel to Foggy Bay where we anchored with one other vessel.  Bob and Patrick took the Grady White out fishing and returned with a Coho and a small 15# Halibut to add to the freezer.

August 7, 2014

Leaving Foggy Bay at 0500, just as it was getting light, we started trolling as soon as we cleared the outer bay and could not keep the Pink Salmon off the hooks, so after four of them in just 20 minutes we pulled in the gear and headed across Dixon Entrance, through Venn Passage and into the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club, where we cleared customs and headed for Safeway to buy the items we could not take across the border.  While there we received an email from “Coccinelle” indicating they were looking at trucking their boat to Anacortes rather than motoring another 600 miles.

August 8, 2014

Today we motored out of Prince Rupert at 0805, stopping several times to fish, with no luck, heading down Grenville Channel and finally anchoring in Lowe Inlet, where a bear was feeding on Coho Salmon jumping up Verney Falls.  We tried to entice the Coho to take our bait, but with no success.  We dined on halibut under the setting sun in the cockpit.

Bear feeding in Verney Falls, Lowe Inlet
The Tuckers in front of Verney Falls
August 9, 2014

Raising the anchor at 1000 in light rain and fog, we headed back out into Grenville Channel, stopping to fish at Gribble Island.  By noon the skies had cleared and we headed down Princess Royal Channel to Khutze Inlet where we anchored in 110 feet of water at the base of the waterfall.  Patrick set two crab pots for an overnight soak.  The fog started rolling in and there was patchy fog overnight, but no wind.

Summer scenery in Khutze Inlet

Seal colony in Khutze Inlet
August 10, 2014

Patrick pulled the pots in the morning and found 18 legal crabs, well within our combined limit for four licenses.  At 0805, after cooking the crab we headed back out Khutze Inlet and continued down Princess Royal Channel, Tolmie Channel and Klemtu Passage before crossing Milbanke Sound. Bob and Miriam spent quite a bit of time picking the crab meat from the shells.  The swells increased to 6-10 feet, but smoothed out as we turned in at Ivory Island into Seaforth Channel.  We anchored Spirit in sunny weather at 1835 in front of Shearwater along with many other pleasure craft.  We enjoyed fresh crab in the sun for dinner.

Boat Bluff Lighthouse

Longhouse at Klemtu
Super Full Moon at Shearwater
August 11, 2014

After the fog cleared we pulled up the anchor at 1155 and headed into Gunboat Passage to Ocean Falls.  By 1515 we had moored at the Ocean Falls dock in brisk winds, but sunny and very warm weather.  Bob, Patrick and Dianne toured through the deserted town up to the dam and Link Lake before returning to Spirit where we enjoyed more of the crab from Khutze Inlet, now made into a crab and corn chowder.

Ocean Falls Mermaid
The Tuckers in Ocean Falls

Some of the remaining deserted houses slowly falling apart
August 12, 2014

We wanted to fish today, so we left Ocean Falls at 0845 and drug a variety of lures at different depths, getting only two strikes, both of which we lost.  Returning to Shearwater via Gunboat Passage we briefly anchored and went grocery shopping at the Shearwater store, which had a good selection of fresh vegetables.  After pulling the anchor we headed down Lama Passage, across Fisher Channel and into Codville Lagoon, which was full of boats.  Our favorite spot was still available, so we anchored and set out both crab and prawn pots and then had dinner in the sunshine in the cockpit.  We were surprised to still have cell phone reception in Codville Lagoon.

August 13, 2014

Bob and Patrick headed out in the fog to find the prawn and crab pots.  They came back with only one crab, but 10 dozen prawns.  Seeing the fog beginning to lift, the decision was made to head for Pruth Bay.  We pulled the pots again, getting several dozen more prawns and headed into Fisher Channel, where we were greeted by dense fog.  By the time we got several miles north of Hakai Passage the fog cleared so we headed down scenic Ward Channel and across Hakai Passage though Meay Channel and into Pruth Bay.  Already at anchor were cruising friends Lisa and Mike Haistings on “Legasea”.  We made a trip into the beach to visit West Beach, which was littered with blue sailing jelly fish known as Valella Valella”, as well as a large “88” jellyfish in the clear water at Pruth Bay.  The prawns we had caught became a pasta and prawn dinner in the cockpit under sunny skies.  
Jellyfish in Pruth Bay

Dianne and Bob Tucker at Mosquito Tree, Pruth Bay

Valella Valella on West Beach, Pruth Bay

While preparing dinner we heard a “Pan Pan Pan” on the radio and responded to a distress call from a 30 foot sailboat that had run aground on an ebb tide entering the south arm of Pruth Bay, within sight of us.  Bob and Patrick took the Grady White over to see what they could do.  Patrick attached a tow line to the main halyard and pulled the boat over to a higher angle of heel, freeing the keel from the reef, then pulling them off the reef and guiding them into safe water.  They claimed the chartplotter they were using did not show the reef, but all three of our programs showed it clearly.  After freeing the 30 foot sailboat from the reef, we resumed our prawn dinner in the delightful sunshine.
Pulling a sailboat off the reef in Pruth Bay
Prawns from Codville make great pasta
August 14, 2014

Surprisingly the fog was not in Pruth Bay when we awoke.  The couple from the sailboat we had freed dropped of Vietnamese Summer Rolls which we put in the refrigerator.  After breakfast, Patrick, Bob and Dianne headed into the beach and spent the day on West Beach and hiking to North Beach.  Returning to Spirit, we had the summer rolls in the cockpit.  That afternoon we met on “Legasea” for happy hour.  By the time we were finished, both Miriam and Dianne were under the weather, and by the next morning, everyone but Patrick was feeling ill.

North Beach, Pruth Bay
August 15, 2014

Miriam, Patrick and Bob were awake early for a 0500 departure from Pruth Bay, in the dark, for the long crossing to Port McNeill.  As we headed down Fitz Hugh Sound we ran into dense fog near Cape Calvert, which persisted until we approached Malcom Island.  There was a moderate westerly swell, but little wind, and the swell died out by the time we passed the Walker Group while in Gordon Channel.  After 84 nautical miles we arrived in Port McNeill at 1610 under now sunny skies.  The trio who were feeling ill seemed to recover, but we cancelled dinner with Alex Benson on Wild Blue to make sure everyone was really well.

Spirit has now covered an additional 456 nautical miles since leaving Ketchikan on August 6.

August 16, 2014

Bob and Dianne spent the day in Alert Bay, visiting the cultural center, while Miriam and Patrick worked on minor maintenance items on the boat and watching the parade of pleasure craft heading south for home.  After the Tucker’s returned we had dinner at Gus’s Bar and Grill.

August 17, 2014

It was a long night since the trio had not really recovered fully from what we think may have been some sort of food poisoning which Patrick was immune to.  Bob and Dianne felt well enough to depart on the bus to Victoria mid-day.

August 18, 2014

Today was another maintenance day, working on the bow thruster issue and other items before having an evening get-together with the crew of “Adventure”, a vessel that used to moor next to us at Anacortes Marina.  Both Port McNeill marinas have more and more vacant slips at night as people keep heading south for the season.