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Bound for Borneo and the Friends We Meet Along the Way


jamming with the great Band at Admiralty Marina

With a tear in the eye we left the Land of Smiles for Borneo. The first leg takes us down the famed and all too familiar Melaka Straights, ancient trade route connecting the modern towns of Western Malaysia and the passage of East to West. As is it the ritual, our first Malaysian stop is at Langkawi, where we find our dear friends on the MV Totem, this is a bitter sweet reunion as it will be our last for a long time..

saying good by to the Totem kids, next time i see them they will be all grown up.

Good bys said, waterfalls visited and some quality pool time at Reback Marina and down the path we go. Next stop is my favorite, Penang, and the historic city of George Town. I tell the crew this is m favorite city for sightseeing as it tells of a rich history. Penang has been colonized by the British, populated by those from India and China giving her a diversity found few other places. .

As we pulled into the Straights Quay Marina i hear someone hollering, Hi Brian, it is my cruising friends from Gemini, Craig and Robin. If you go back into the Furthur Adventures you will find a piece on the other Furthur i found in Australia, a bus owned by a dreadlock headed chap named Lucky. These are his parents who we have seen cruising for the last 4 years. Always good to see old friends

i spend the day doing boat maintenance, oil changes and such as the girls explore then we meet for yet another scrumptious feast at one of the famous food courts. Here you can dine a food from every part of Asia. You go from stall to stall ordering dishes and once they arrive the fun begins. the after effect is a large circular table covered with empty plates and three happy travelers.

We walk off some of our gluttony as we pass through small streets lined with interesting people and things. One of the main attractions is the “wall art” one finds scattered about the old part of town. At one stop i find a chap raising money for a boy’s home by playing the most amazing drum set i have ever seen, all assembled from things found in a kitchen. Sitting next to him is guitar made from a tennis racket, i must have given the bizarre axe a look only a guitar player can give as he motioned for me to pick it up. He was playing to recorded music, mostly old rock so just up my alley. We jammed for a while and a sizeable crowd assembled, all dropping silver in the box.

Our next stop was a Chinese temple where dancers performed and then a snake charmer show. The guy had a huge collection of dangerous snakes he played with and even smooched with a few.

Bellies full and sights seen, down the road we go. Melaka Straights is 400 miles of brown water, boring shorelines and annoying fishing boats. The redeeming features are the towns along the way. Next long stop is Port Dickson and Admiralty Marina a so familiar place that when i call on the radio giving the name Furthur, they come back with, “good to have you back Mr. Brian”. A few days rest and that oh so precious pool time and gone again.

As we leave i see the engine temperature rise above normal, something that very rarely happens and is never good. It slowly rises over the next fifteen hour run to overheating as we pull into our next destination.  I check all the usual suspects; coolant, oil, impellor, sea strainer and find nothing wrong. So i call in the Calvary and summons the local Cummins dealer. The next day the owner of the company and a technician show up and go to work. First they redo all the checks i did, expected and find nothing. After going through the entire system they find some old impellor parts in the intake of the after cooler, ah ha we think but a sea trial shows it is not the problem. We also pull and inspect the thermostat and although working replace it with a spare i carried. None of this works.

With nearly 7000 trouble free hours i had planned on getting the heat exchanger inspected at Kota KInabalu as part of maintenance. I suspect it might have needed it sooner as all other options disappear. Just before they remove it, something that will delay our already late departure, the technician summons me to the engine room. He has pulled off the raw water intake hose up stream of the impellor and found another larger wad of impellor blades. How they got up stream baffles us all but another sea trial shows we found the problem, yahooo… You in the states or Australia note this, two top technicians worked 9 hours, that is 18 hours labor. It cost me just under $450 usd. See why i love SE Asia!

junk we pulled out of the cooling system

While in Puteri Marina, very near Singapore, we again meet up with some long lost friends. Ken and Laurie on SV Trim were in our Puddle Jump group in Mexico. For a few months we all nervously prepared for our fist big crossing, the 3000 miles across the Pacific. We became a tight knight group but alas we are scattered around the world now. Ken had been working in Australia for three years but they are back on the water again and headed to Thailand. We spend an evening going over places they should see.

We also had a change of crew in Puteri, one of the girls just did not find boat life to her liking, happens, so she did a mutually agreed upon dismemberment. This left us shorthanded so i emailed past crew member and local gal, Ying, who jumped at the chance to cruise on Furthur again, “how could i refuse?”.

An article in a Chinese newspaper about Ying’s first time on Furthur.. we are famous in many languages now!

So happy crew, cool engine, and away we go to make the four day run to our first stop in Borneo, Miri Marina. Another bitter sweet event as this is where, last year, we picked up an old cruising friend for the reverse ride to Singapore. Jean has now gone to the great ocean in the sky, where i am sure she is sailing on calm seas with favorable winds.  i write this part dead center in the South China Sea after a rainy day and glorious moonlit night followed by a bright sunny, cam seas filled day. Good to be back at sea again.

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Cruising Friend Come and Go but Never Leave Your Heart

As we travel the world and join other cruisers great bonds developed, friendships grow and attachments attach. Since i left the good ol USA, i have been surrounded by fellow cruisers and many have kept in touch. As the paths varied we left many friend…

Leaving the Land of Smiles, Fourth time.


Again i prepare to leave the Land of Smiles and again it with a heavy heart. This country has spoken to me in ways that i want to tell you. I find myself calling Phuket “home” even though i travel consistently.

On the practical side, this is the best place for boat work this side of the USA. i am consistently pleased with the quality service and the price of work done here. there is an eagerness to please and excel that is refreshing. Here old world pride in work and new world technology have met and live together. Parts are a bit spendy as there is a whopping import duty but the labor rate is good and the work gets done, usually on time and at the estimated cost. I find i trust the workers here and that is so important.

The scenery is unsurpassed, jungles, mountains, amazing small islands that jet out of the sea. You look around and you know you are in Thailand. The boating here is incredible, unlimited anchorages and so much to explore. This area boasts some great diving too.

All adds up to a great place to cruise but it is the Thai people that make it the mystical haven it is. The Land of Smiles is spot on, everyone smiles and expects you too also. The small things make the difference, traffic here can be horrid with a mass construction project smack dab in the middle of the island and the most traveled intersection. Yet no one gets fussed, no blaring horns, no obscene jesters out the window, it all just flows. If you hear a horn it only peeps, saying “hey i am here” not a blare demanding you change your way or telling you off. Cars merge peaceably and with little direction from traffic signs, there is never gridlock, it is amazing. All the things that bring westerners to the point of going postal just do not effect Thais; horrid traffic, shopping malls or supermarkets, torrential rains all just pass on by with a smile.

Thai people bond and bond fast, this week i have run into several friends from past visits, friends made briefly but solidly. Girls from the bars, musicians, boat workers and today a kayak guide all beaming with joy to see me, know my name (something i sadly cannot reciprocate) and show great absolutely genuine pleasure in reuniting. I might have been here to often as even the lady who does the ping pong shows greeted me as an old friend, yikes! Friendship is paramount to the Thai life style, above all else and treasured.

No one likes to celebrate like the Thais. they have four New Year’s celebrations all done to the maximum: Western New Year, Chinese New Year and two Thai events marking the change of seasons. The upcoming event marks the end of the rainy season, it is celebrated by casting decorated small boats lit with candles into the sea, an event that is heartwarming. But nothing on earth is as absurdly fun as Songkran, the water festival celebrating the beginning of the wet season. Everyone and i mean everyone in the country partakes in a twelve hour water fight, huge water cannons, buckets and anything else that moves water is used to douse anyone in range, an absolute hoot! On the more intense level i just participated in the Vegetarian Festival, a weeklong event that takes on many facets. Many Thais forgo sex and other pleasures (forgoing sex here is a big deal believe me) in a Ramadan or Lent type cleansing. Each day the streets are full of processions for the temples, parades with extreme fireworks which actually wind up wounding a few along the way. the most extreme believers mutilate their faces with swords and axes and walk over hot coal, some climb ladders made of blades to show their faith. It is intense and not seen by most tourists.

The majority of Thais are Buddhists and i find that religion compelling, the peace i find in it has been life changing. I love the rituals and attend the temples often. There is a large Muslim minority here as well and all seem to coexist peaceably, it is common to see young girls wearing the Hijab arm and arm with bare headed Thai girls, all just kids giggling away.

One cannot talk of Thailand with knowledge of the King. The King of Thailand is the most loved national ruler on the planet. He is loved universally and without limit. From the old woman sweeping the streets in her cooly hat to the bar girls to the richest land owner he is loved. i have studied the royal family history, it is remarkable. As an American i would not have seen myself interested in a monarchy but this one works. The recent coup and military takeover was supported by the King, believe me it would not have happened without that support. It has been seamless, peaceful and pragmatic, it made the government work where it was failing. I have been embarrassed the US Gov reaction to this internal situation, why on earth would our Secretary of State meddle here, but he has and it is hurtful.

Thai history is intriguing, the Thais have never gone to war, never been colonized and have lived peacefully for centuries. The few coups came and went with no more violence than is seen on the streets of Kansas right now. But it is going back in time where i have become enthralled.  Rama V, the Great, (1868–1910), Chulalongkorn (42 years) is the most loved of all Kings and for good reason. If you recall the splendid musical “The King and I” this is the Prince who was raised partly by Anna the British instructor and renowned abolitionist. Once King, he set out to rid his country of slavery early on but observed the terrible carnage of the American civil war and the sad state of affairs that followed. He meticulously went about a peaceful transition which would provide the slaves a better life not just tossed out into a world of hate. It took him forty years but he did it. By the end of his reign Thailand had no slaves, no one was killed in the transition and the former slaves found a place in the society.  

Always a mariner i became intrigued by the “Father of the Thai Navy” after visiting a monument to him. Prince Chumphon enrolled in the British Naval Academy and severed as an officer in the Royal Navy. Upon returning to his homeland he started the Thai Naval Academy and the Thai Navy. His legacy as a mariner grew from there. Today the academy is going strong and the Thai Navy is a functioning well run entity.

One defining difference between western and Thai culture is the approach to the term” good luck” A westerner, Felange, sees luck as something that happens to them from an exterior source; win the lotto, the coin toss. Here it is an internal thing, good luck means happiness and is self imposed. there are many things we do that bring good luck, make the gong sing at the temple, give to the poor, help someone randomly or be blessed by a monk. the other day i was headed to the doctor, saw a street vender selling good luck flowers and thought, man i need some, so bought the flowers. Doc gave me all good news.

On the practical side of life Thailand is incredible, the cost of living low, service high and it is safe, far safer than what i see in the US. One defining element of a good retirement home is medical care and cost. I had been suffering from a bladder infection so off to the hospital i go, reluctantly for sure. i pulled in the car park and was guided by four parking attendants, wow in a hospital? Upon entering i asked someone who looked official to see a doctor, she escorted me to the registration desk where i met my Customer Service Rep. ya imagine that! He guided me to the waiting room. In a manner of minutes i saw a Urologist, ya again i saw a specialist in a manner of minutes!!! After the consultation i was taken to the lab for urine tests and returned to the Urologist’s office. He explained my ailment clearly and gave me two prescriptions and scheduled a follow up visit. I got the meds paid the bill and was out in an hour and a half, all for $137. The return visit including lab work cost $37. No way could you get this treatment or that cost in the USA.

Food glorious food, as the song goes. Thailand is blessed with scrumptious food at every corner on every street, everywhere you turn. Ranging from western tourist food to local food it is all here. The international community of xpats provide an array of European cuisine, best German food i have ever had. the local food is often copied, but never equaled. And again so cheap, if i spend five bucks for a dinner it is a big night out. Local meals are around $2-3 and top end western food in a very nice place may hit $10. I read more and more about GMO and other horrors of American food but here it is all fresh, grown in someone’s yard and purchased at a public market.

i would be remiss if i did not include the wonders of Thai ladies in this piece. Keeping with my PG rating i will be obscure. Misunderstood by westerners often, loved by the ones who do understand them and cherished, worshipped and revered by those of us who know them well, the ladies of Thailand are world famous for their charm, looks and love. Once experienced no one can forget those enchanting brown eyes.

The kind of things that make Thailand so special cannot be measured in inches or dollars, they are the small things that make you stop in your tracks and go ahh.. and that happens to me daily. A beaming smile from a kid, a grin from an old lady, a bow from a young girl, hearing Papa called out as i walk by, a hug from a friend, the flowers i buy each day for good luck from a street vender, those are the things one can only experience firsthand. These are the things that make each day in Thailand a treasure.

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5 Year Report, the Captain

Five years is a milestone and often the end of cruising or the realization that this is the best lifestyle forever. I fit into the later, after 5 years i have more certainty that this is how i want to live. My trips back to the US have only reconfirmed…

5 year Report, the Crew

As with all the previous years, my crew experiences have been extraordinary and full of lessons. As i have for the last 4 years i rely on findacrew.net for most of my crew needs, such an asset to the cruising world. I had one exceptional crew, Sam, wh…

Five Year Report, the Voyage

This past year found us in new and exciting places and some old familiar ones. We left Indonesia in the early Fall and headed back up the east coast of Borneo. We stayed a while in one of our “homes” Kota Kinabalu, where we celebrated my birthday and …

Five Year Report

 

Five years ago this month i was fearful, excited, eager and apprehensive as i left the comfort of my lifetime home, Puget Sound. As Stephen Stills said at Woodstock, “this is our first gig and we are scared shitless” that sort of wraps up how i felt. Like CSNY, it all turned out brilliantly. Today i have traveled half the globe, been to dozens of countries, lived within many cultures and had the experiences few will ever attain. Each year i do a report in sections: boat, voyage, crew, captain.

THE BOAT

Again Furthur as performed miraculously, little problems, some maintenance, some new items. We now have 6,645 hours on the Cummins QSL 9 engine. That is more than any other Selene and twice as much as most boats get in a lifetime. The oil is still clean at the 300 hour oil changes and we have not used a drop of oil between changes. Sometimes i get a little smoke at the exhaust but that is usually fuel related, recently i had fuel from two different sources in the two tanks, running on one i got smoke, switched tanks and clean as a whistle. The perils of third world cruising.

i am now in Thailand where i always do major work and catch up on things i need help on or ya things i just do not want to do. My Tecma heads have been incredible, my guest head gets more use than any non commercial toilet on the sea! With up to 5 girls on the boat at once its life is not easy. The waste hoses get clogged with salt residue and constrict like hardening arteries. Also i have not used the holding tank in 5 years and do not intend on using it. So we cut the hose run in half, eliminating the Y valve and preplaced all the hoses on both heads. We are replacing all the components, valves, motors and switches.. should be smooth sailing.

The big addition this year was to add solar panels, clearly in the “why didn’t i think of this before” as i am always were the sun shines! so now we get 900 watts of rays from the sun, enough to cover most of our daily use at anchor.

As a past Commander of the United States Power Squadron and certified old school navigator, this comes hard, but after going half way around the world and never looking at a chart, never once, it is time to acquiesce to the digital age. I have 4 computers with two navigation systems and 5 GPS’s working on them. The piles of unused charts that take up the area designed for an ice maker are going away, and we are getting a real icemaker!

In Sand Diego i installed a small A/C unit in the pilot house, a typical sea water cooled system. It has never worked, never run for more than a week without failing. There is an aircon/refrig guy here i really like, he is the one to get my Frigaboat freezer running perfectly. He took one look and determined the hoses were the wrong type and collapsed easily. They replaced the hoses with the proper ones, rebuilt the motor and after test period all is well. The most common complaint by the crew is the lack of air circulation and heat in the guest stateroom. i have pondered solutions with no luck but the pilot house AC sits right on top of the room, so they ducted vents into the two staterooms and yahooo AC !! i warned the current girls that the past crews will be very jealous!!

i am hauling out to replace my PSS shaft log, it has served ten years and so many hours and it is just a good idea to replace it. We might pull the stabilizer that we did not redo last year as well. A touch up on the bottom paint and new zincs and a way we will go. Interestingly the zincs have lasted two years, we spend so little time in marinas and i think the 220v system creates far less stray current than the 110v US systems.

So we will embark on our next big adventure in October, back to the Philippines with the boat standing tall and cool drinks in our hands.

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Sea Magazine article

I want to thank Sea Magazine and Mike Werling for their support. Here is the most recent article on the Furthur Adventure, hope you enjoy it. http://content.yudu.com/A2z68d/2014-08/resources/index.htm?referrerUrlStart your own blog now! Free!

A Day to give a little Help,

 

As i have said often, the greatest surprise and joy of the Furthur Adventure has been getting to know the wonders of the many crew members who have joined us. One that stands out is a young California girl who abandoned a budding legal career, home and all familiar, traded her condo for a back pack and BMW for a motorbike, to set out on her own adventure. Marisa joined me for my Dive Master training in Kota Kinabalu two years ago, she did a short stint as crew on Furthur and then moved up to Dive Instructor, managing dive shops in Bali. I would visit her twice as we passed by Bali.

 Answering the call to adventure, again she gave up security for new challenges. She is now involved in an extraordinary effort to protect the largest fish in the ocean, the Whale Shark. We look forward to joining her in the Philippines next Spring. As for now she REALLY needs the help of the Furthur Followers and all you have to do is some clicking!! So please read the instructions below and click away, someday you will have the extreme joy of seeing or diving with a Whale Shark and know you did a bit to help protect them!!!

 Hey Brian,

 

Thanks for your help on this!  Here’s what we need to make this happen:

 

1.   Visit http://expeditiongranted.nationalgeographic.com/project/above-giants/ and share it with everyone you know;

2.  Follow us on www.facebook.com/abovegiants and twitter (@abovegiants) for more information about our project, and daily whale shark facts and updates, and invite all of your friends to do the same;

3.  Vote for us as much as possible between September 16th and 29th.  You’re allowed one vote per day.  

 

For more information about the project (and our NGO), check out www.lamave.org/abovegiants.

 

For more information about my story, check out http://www.reddit.com/r/sharks/comments/2ffx6q/reddit_its_been_a_long_road_from_lawyer_to_shark/

 

Thanks so much Brian!  Super excited about this, and think it can make a big difference in whale shark conservation. 

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Help protect Whale Sharks, its easy

 

As i have said often, the greatest surprise and joy of the Furthur Adventure has been getting to know the wonders of the many crew members who have joined us. One that stands out is a young California girl who abandoned a budding legal career, home and all familiar, traded her condo for a back pack and BMW for a motorbike, to set out on her own adventure. Marisa joined me for my Dive Master training in Kota Kinabalu two years ago, she did a short stint as crew on Furthur and then moved up to Dive Instructor, managing dive shops in Bali. I would visit her twice as we passed by Bali.

 Answering the call to adventure, again she gave up security for new challenges. She is now involved in an extraordinary effort to protect the largest fish in the ocean, the Whale Shark. We look forward to joining her in the Philippines next Spring. As for now she REALLY needs the help of the Furthur Followers and all you have to do is some clicking!! So please read the instructions below and click away, someday you will have the extreme joy of seeing or diving with a Whale Shark and know you did a bit to help protect them!!!

 Hey Brian,

 

Thanks for your help on this!  Here’s what we need to make this happen:

 

1.   Visit http://expeditiongranted.nationalgeographic.com/project/above-giants/ and share it with everyone you know;

2.  Follow us on www.facebook.com/abovegiants and twitter (@abovegiants) for more information about our project, and daily whale shark facts and updates, and invite all of your friends to do the same;

3.  Vote for us as much as possible between September 16th and 29th.  You’re allowed one vote per day.  

 

For more information about the project (and our NGO), check out www.lamave.org/abovegiants.

 

For more information about my story, check out http://www.reddit.com/r/sharks/comments/2ffx6q/reddit_its_been_a_long_road_from_lawyer_to_shark/

 

Thanks so much Brian!  Super excited about this, and think it can make a big difference in whale shark conservation. 

Start your own blog now! Free!