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9 August 2016 Our last day on Cape Breton – Alexander Graham Bell Museum – Baddeck Festival

By on August 11, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III
Beinn Breagh

     






     You probably know all about Alexander Graham Bell and his wife, Mabel, as I thought I did until I spent several hours in his museum seeing and hearing about his multitude of inventions. Then I realized that all I REALLY knew was that he invented the telephone.  That was small change in comparison to his other accomplishments but that invention did establish him financially enabling him to pursue other endeavors. He and Mabel were brilliant.  As he came up with ideas for other inventions, she was right beside him with encouragement and her own theories.


     Bell; his father in Edinburgh; his grandfather in London; and his uncle in Dublin, taught “elocution” for years.  There are many very interesting stories of his successes in teaching the deaf to speak.  His mother was unable to hear as was his wife, Mabel. A childhood illness robbed Mabel of her hearing. His Dublin uncle published a variety of works on the subject of speech and hearing loss.  One of the most well known is his treatise on Visible Speech. There were flip charts with diagrams, flash cards, various “tools” that he’d devised to use so that the patient could feel vibration, enabling them to speak and to recognize sound. This was his vibraphone.


     This museum really intrigued me much more than I’d anticipated.  Bell built kites hoping they would be able to lift a man into the air and he called them Flying Machines. Eventually he invented an airplane so to Canada, he’s what the Wright Brothers are to America.  A hydrofoil boat was another invention that Mabel got to ride in but her husband never did. She claimed to’ve loved the exhilaration of the speed and her proximity to the water.  He invented the  photophone; electroscope which fell into disuse in 1900 with television taking its place. Of course, the telephone, demonstrated to the Queen in 1878, was just grabbing the attention of the people but when he died in 1922, 13 million phones had already be sold.  

     This museum contains the largest collection of Bell’s artifacts and inventions.  Most artifacts are original, but there are some reproductions that are also valuable, particularly ones such as the HD-4 reconstruction, which incorporate original parts. The majority of the large collection of artifacts related to his research. We were also able to see his books, photographs and copies of material from his personal archives as well as various personal items, furniture and awards that he received. It was so stimulating to delve into the mind of a genius; to read a page from his personal notebook, and to explore his many inventions.

     You’ll find the museum on the shores of the Bras d’Or Lakes overlooking Baddeck Bay and Kidston Island. The stunning grounds are open and inviting, making it a popular spot to picnic and fly kites. Several children were out on the lawn flying the kites they had made in their workshop. If you look southwest, you’ll spot Baddeck’s harbor, boardwalk and wharf. From the site’s roof-top deck, you can see the headlands of Beinn Bhreagh (Gaelic for “beautiful mountain”), Bell’s beloved summer home. The Gaelic influence still remains in this area with a Gaelic college, bag pipes, fiddles, and dancing—as the name the Bells gave to their retreat.  The Bells visited the Cape Breton area in 1885 and soon moved there for their summers.

     The lakes were important to Bell’s experimental work.  In the early 1900’s, during his experiments about aviation and kites, they ere launched from rafts towed behind boats and even a steamship.  Traveling around the lakes in their houseboat and in later years on the yacht “Elsie”, a gift to their daughter, Elsie, was a source of enjoyment for the Bell family and their friends.

     Seeing their home from our sailing cruise the day before and being up close and personal with their history and love story was unforgettable.  And to think I almost passed on the museum. I feel that we’ve experienced second hand the story of the great inventor and his wife who came to Cape Breton and fell in love with its people, music, and Gaelic charm.  Deaf from childhood, Mabel never heard the ring of the telephone nor the roar of the Silver Dart, her husband’s airplane, but she became one of the century’s most influential advocates for women, children, and the arts.  Overlooking Baddeck Bay, the Bells found repose from the hectic life that followed the invention of the telephone. From kites and flights to schools and libraries, they changed the world.


          
     

     Kite-making workshops and experimental programs are designed especially for children and are offered in the summer. The site has a new exhibit, Kites of the World, featuring kites which Bell might have encountered on his journey across the globe.  The final exhibit, Water, presents the story of Bell’s experiments with hydrofoil craft, culminating in the success of the HD-4.

     Mr. Bell said, “I have travelled the globe.  I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes and the Alps and the highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty, Cape Breton out rivals them all.”

     We concluded our last day on Cape Breton with steamed mussels bought and steamed on the city harbor’s dock and sat on a picnic bench inhaling the fresh air, observing the marine goings-on, and relishing every single morsel.


      As we leave Cape Breton and Nova Scotia to begin our migration south, we fell in love with the area and the people. The locals (where ever you go) are very friendly and seem to love to talk.  They speak in many different languages and that, along with the relative isolation of the beautiful island, has helped preserve the cultures of the people.  Cape Breton is home to many beautiful and fascinating cultures–Celtic, Aboriginal, Celtic, and French to name a few.

     We talked with a man who drives a school bus and the drive over the mountains to school is a 2 hour ride twice a day.  The students spend 6 hours in class and 4 on the bus every single day.  At the festival we saw the Mi’Kmaq people who’ve been on the island for some 10,000 years and whose native language and history have been preserved mainly through the oral tradition.   They continue to be skilled in crafts such as basket making, working with hides, and using beads or quills on birch bark and hides.  Their arts were displayed so we were able to appreciate their work and dedication to preserving their heritage.

     Again, we love this area, the people, and everything about it.  I felt so ‘at home’ here and everyone with whom I came in contact made me feel like I belonged.

Bill and Laura
Baddeck, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia



     

8 August 2016 Sailboat Cruise on Lake Bras d’Or, Baddeck, Cape Breton

By on August 10, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III

          Our plans are to tour the Bell Museum on our last day so before we did that, we wanted to see the lake from the water and understand what the Bells saw, from that vantage point, that caused them to choose Ba…

7 August 2016 Cabot Trail – Skyline Trail – Pleasant Bay – Whale Watching

By on August 10, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III

    

    An intricate network of rivers and lakes, waterfalls and beaches lies over the entire island of Cape Breton.  In addition to that, there’s mile after mile of foot-worthy trails that beckoned us to…

6 August 2016 Uisage Falls Provincial Park

By on August 10, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III

     On Saturday, our touring began with a portion of the 183 mile Cabot Trail, intending to conclude with a hike in one of the magnificent provincial parks.  Of course, the Cabot Trail is everything you’ve ever heard or read. If…

1-5 August 2016 Halifax – Lunenburg – Blue Rocks

By on August 5, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III
     Our arrival in Nova Scotia occurred the end of July but we’re still here—and lovin’ it—so bear with me if I repeat.  We fancy ourselves to be ‘active travelers’ because we plunge into the entire experience of the culture, people, and settings of the places we visit.  We chat with local people, take in their festivals, and go off the beaten track to discover how citizens of each area truly live. In Nova Scotia, the tides have shaped not only their coastline but also the cultures and traditions of those who live here. This little part of our world is blessed by geography.  Nowhere in the province are you ever far from the ocean so choice seafood abounds everywhere. 

     By far, my favorite village is Old Town Lunenburg, UNESCO World Heritage Site, established in 1753, is an ideal example of a British planned colonial settlement in North America.  I love its colorful waterfront, red wooden warehouses, narrow streets, charming architecture and nautical history. It continues to be a working waterfront. The heritage homes used to be white, then pastel, and now they’re painted very bright, almost glow-in-the-dark colors—-like bright purple trimmed in a bright green—loved that color combo.  With all the bright contrasting colors set off by the crystal blue water, in my imagination I see the Lunenburg waterfront as a piece of jewel-toned tapestry.

     Lunenburg, was settled by “foreign protestants” who were mainly german-speaking Lutherans with a strong work ethic.  They survived then thrived, moving from farming to the fishing.  Some of the last names have changed but 10 generations later, many of these folk still live here.

     We felt we’d come to the watery edge of the earth when we wandered a bit down the road from Lunenburg to Blue Rocks, a micro-village of fishermen and truly a step back in time.  It’s a ruggedly quaint paradise trimmed in little fish shacks that carry so much natural charm. They are still alive with the work of the inshore fishermen and salty breezes reeking of a natural beauty that’s indisputable. It is truly a place out of time. The name, Blue Rocks, comes for the bluish tint (sort of) of the slate lining the shore. This is an artist’s paradise and is inspiring enough to make the unartistic want to pick up a brush and paint. Inhale clean salt air, dip your toes in the cold Atlantic, relax, and take pleasure in the knowledge that, thankfully, places like this still exist.

     I’ve heard of Peggy’s Cove quite a bit and even though Bill had been there several time, this was my first.  He often traveled to N.S before his retirement from Michelin. There were Michelin plants in that area that were his destination.  We walked over to the bas-relief sculpture chiseled from the granite of a 98 foot rock face.  This is a William E. deGarthe creation showing the lives and legends of local fishermen.

deGarth’s carving on a 98 foot wall of granite
      The light at Peggy’s Cove is probably the most photographed light house. But no wonder—it’s picture perfect, perched atop massive granite, polished by the pounding waves.  It’s been guiding sailors and fishermen home since 1868.  When you go, don’t be in a rush so that you can sit on the rocks and watch the sea crash against those boulders.  The sight and sound is hypnotic.

Our Guide
     In Halifax, founded in 1749,  we dived head first into their maritime and military heritage. We climbed the grassy knoll (not to be confused with Cadillac Mountain!) to visit the star-shaped fortress, the Halifax  Citadel.  It has stood watch over the city since the mid-1800’s. We were in trenches  which totally changed the mental image that I had of battlefield trenches.  For summer jobs, college students dress in period soldier costumes and provide tours both in French and English.  The kilts and jackets they wear are 100% scratchy wool but it was a cool day when we toured so the outfits were probably very comfortable except for the itchiness.
There were fewer of this uniform than the kilts.  They remind me of Little Johnny, the Phillip Morris man.  You’d know him only if you were born before 1950.


     Many friends told us to not miss the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic in Halifax. Besides the exhibits, we went into the chandlery which is in the original location and looks exactly like I imagined that it did “back then”.  They had a huge inventory of nautical hardware.  The museum’s collections include over 24,000 artifacts relating to the Royal Canadian Navy, Canadian merchant marine, Nova Scotia small craft, and shipwrecks, and over 20,000 photos and artifacts from the Titanic disaster.  I’ve always been fascinated by the idea of diving a wreck but their videos didn’t reinforce my beliefs of what they would look like.  Generally, by the time they’re found, things are covered with sand, silt, marine growth, and have corroded beyond recognition by the untrained eye so that’s one thing I can remove from my bucket list.
Fresnel Lens in Maritime Museum

Found this hauled and undergoing some work
My first sail boat, I christened Whim.  I was nearing the end of school piled high with student loans, no money, and no job on the horizon.  I found a little boat that I HAD to have and bought her on a whim.  Therefore her name.  I wonder the story behind this little boat’s name.
     Also, displayed in that museum are photos and recounts of several Halifax fires.  One was caused when 2 ships collided in the harbor in broad open daylight and one was carrying tons of ammo, gasses, and other explosives which pretty much wiped out the city, killing 1600 people.  Another was a fire on a jetty where ammo was stored and after the fire began, it took 24 hours for all them explosives to finish firing.  Halifax was closest to the Titanic catastrophe so were first to reach the site and that was re-told and photographed in great detail.

     Hugging Halifax’s downtown waterfront is a 10 block boardwalk that provides access to shops, restaurants, and historic sites.  It makes for a pleasant stroll we were always kept comfortable by the oceans cooling breeze.
    The Halifax Seaport Farmer’s Market is billed as the longest continuously running market in North America.  More than 250 vendors sell fresh produce, baked goods, cheeses, wines, and hand-crafted items. There’s a roof-top patio where you can eat your purchased lunch while enjoying the harbor view.
Just leaving Halifax for a week’s stay on Cape Breton. Stay tuned.

Bill and Laura
Halifax, N.S.

July 2016 – Bellingham, MA – Falmouth, MA – Woods Hole, MA – Hyannis, Chatham, Halifax, Nova Scotia

By on July 31, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III

     The first part of July, we left Bellingham, MA, and drove to Falmouth, MA, to cycle.  We had 3 choices of bike trails so since we support Rails-to-Trails through our donations, we chose the trail from Falmouth to Woods Hole — and back. The vistas were stunning and it made our hearts happy to see the trail so well used. 


    
      I surely need more saddle time–last week’s rides have made me acutely aware that I’ve not been riding long enough or often enough. Bill’s not complaining—guess he’s tougher than I am!

     
     As we drove around Hyannis, I Googled “Kennedy Compound” and lo and behold, it led us straight to it!  All I can say is—it’s quite lovely and requires more white paint than I can imagine.

     Early July we began our day at 7 AM to tour Martha’s Vineyard which is far larger in area than we’d ever have dreamed. In the summer 100,000 people are there and only 17,000 brave enough to endure their winters. I think we saw all 100,000 yesterday and we kept running into one couple again and again. As many restaurants as there are, we even had lunch at the same place!!! The biggest coincidence/happening was seeing a boating friend, Jane, from Marathon and the church we attend there…who ALSO is from Charleston! She was on her way to an art lecture in one of the galleries. As large as the island is, it’s a small small world.





   



     In Marathon several years ago, we met Peter and Diane, who are boaters but were vacationing by car.  As my tales generally are, how we met is a long story and I’ll spare  you.  They are lobstermen and live in Hull, MA, which is on the very tip of a peninsula. 


     Diane saw on FaceBook that we were going to be in Maine and they invited us to come for a visit. Of course we accepted their generous offer.  Peter is a septuagenarian and has lived in Hull all his life except for his time in the USN and college. He was explaining the tidal change to us and at that time it was LOW tide.  I asked if they’d ever found any treasures on the beach and he quickly spoke up and said that long ago, he did.  As a teenager he was a life guard on that beach and that’s where he met Diane who was a nanny for some little children—and that’s where their lives began.

     They loaded us up in their SUV and gave us a grand tour of Hull showing us where Peter used to play as a little boy, where he dug clams, where he grew up and the family home. He’s happiest on the water and regrets when his day on the ocean is done.  Isn’t it a dream for someone to love their job after so many years and they still look forward to going back in the morning and doing it all over again.  He offered to take us out fishing with him but he drops his lines at 5 AM!!! 

     Another of their treats to us was steamed lobsters in their home. I confess to devouring 2!  Peter prepared a side dish of pasta flavored with lobster and also contained large “chunks” of lobster. We are so spoiled now because getting a steamed lobster who swam that morning is difficult if not impossible to find.

     Another early morning, from Hingham, we hopped a high speed ferry to land in Boston to visit galleries, museums, and generally to broaden our horizons. Maybe we’ll go to a Tea Party or indulge in some Boston Baked Beans.

Boston Architecture




Christopher Columbus Park

Faneuil Hall Market Place

Boston Marathon Finish Line
     We moved on to Cape Ann so that we’d be near Glocester, MA, so that we could visit Betsy and Martin, more boating friends.  They also gave us a great tour of the area and introduced us to Holy Cow, a purveyor of mouth watering ice cream.  We picked up lobster rolls and went to park to devour them.  Gloster is such a cool little village and we very much enjoyed our time spent with them.
Martin and Betsy and Lobster Rolls
Stage Fort Park, Glocester, MA

Halibut Point State Park Pond
Rockport, MA

Martin, Betsy, Bill
Halibut Point State Park

      The 4 of us took a 2 ½ hour boat ride to tour light houses.  Was hoping for a whale but alas…!  We did see many old and beautiful light houses.  Once upon a time I began a collection of miniatures of all that we’d visited but think after this trip, that accumulation will have to be halted.


     We relish the time that we had with Betsy and Martin but it’s time to move on to Bar Harbor and our campsite was within a stone’s throw of the water.  Not a bad view from our back yard.  We spent 6 nights there and there were umpteen trails to hike and bikeways to discover.  The journey to Bar Harbor along the back roads was exquisite. There was one little old town after another. Felt as if my head were on a swivel.  I LOVE New England!
     Acadia Park, MA, is an absolute breath-taking destination and a wonderful place for an escape.  Its huge but quiet, pastoral, fresh air…a perfect piece of paradise. 

Bass Harbor Light

    


      Somehow we by-passed (2 hours back down the road), Owl Head, ME, that has a collection of old cars so Bill wanted to visit it bad enough to back track.  Can’t imagine anything being good enough for a 4 hour drive in one day but he loved it and said it was worth every second of the trip.


      While we were there we did a really dumb thing and I take full responsibility. We were looking for a hike and decided on Cadillac Mountain knowing nothing about the terrain and only that it was 6 ½ miles with a 1530 foot elevation.  Piece of cake, I thought.  Mistake #1-not researching the terrain.  Mistake #2-leaving at 12:30 PM with an early breakfast as our only fuel.  Mistake #3-appropriately dressed for a “hike”—which this was NOT.  Mistake #4-having in our possession a few almonds, 1 very old Cliff Bar, and a bottle of water each.  Oh, good grief!  We were expecting a hike like we flatlands are accustomed.  Little did we know we should’ve taken a Camelback, pick, ropes, spiked shoes, and gloves. It’s probably an exaggeration to say that it seemed to be a vertical rock climb with a shorter but steeper descent.  Either I’m really out of shape…or I’m certainly not in good shape.  I pondered summoning a chopper to come pluck us off what felt like Pike’s Peak.  About 4:30 PM, the temp drastically changed by dropping about 15 degrees and I was freezing.  Our jackets were in the car. T’was definitely not a walk in the park and in the future, I vow to research the topography before blindly taking off on a “hike”. Never too old to learn.

     When we reached the flat peak, the view was extraordinary and well worth the huffing and puffing.  The only piece of litter we saw the entire time was a cigarette butt near the top.  I was sucking in the atmosphere with clear pink lungs. Can’t imagine a smoker making it the far.  Even saw a woman in flip flops—all the other hikers/rock climbers were in hiking boots.  Flippity Flops??  Just can’t fathom.



     Jeff and Karen, (wouldn’t you know it!)  boating friends, recommended a place in Bernard, ME, very near Bar Harbor/Acadia Park for lobster.  What a place!!!What a thrill to sit on their screened in porch devouring their catch of the morning while looking out on their harbor with many moored lobster boats and quite a few came in to off-load their catch.  Loved this place.



  Basking in the afternoon sun while having afternoon tea and popovers on the lawn of the Jordan Pond House is a tradition.  Our server was a delight.  She studied abroad this past year and will transfer to south FL this fall—and she’s never seen the campus.  She’s a biology major and has medical school in her sites. 

The lawn of Jordan Pond House
 after tea and popovers

       As this month is drawing to a close, we sit in a long line to enter Canada.  The line’s probably composed of Americans going in search of Canadian real estate. We’re near Halifax for 7 nights–we never roost anywhere that long.  What if we grow roots???  Aye??


     We made far more stops than is chronicled here…but this is more than enough to lull you to sleep.

     We’ve heard so much about the (up to) 52′ tidal change in the Bay of Fundy so we had to go see for ourselves.  We drove to Sussex from Bay of Fundy Provincial Park and these are photos of lobster boats sitting on the bottom awaiting water beneath their hulls to get on with business.

Bay of Fundy’s LOW Tide
We could walk on the ocean’s floor

Below are photos from our stroll around downtown Halifax.

     We had lunch/dinner in downtown Halifax at the Old Triangle Irish Ale House.  I’d just “enjoyed” one of the famous Bill Bender Walking Tours so thought I’d earned a Raspberry Wheat Beer which was very tasty.

                                          More lighthouses!

    
   
Signing off from Halifax, Nova Scotia
Bill and Laura Bender


22 – 28 May 2016 Mount Pleasant, SC, – Lottsburg, VA

By on July 23, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III
                           Uncooperative internet or I’d post photos.
22 May – There’s a delightful nature trail through the woods and around the pond/lake at Mt. Pleasant’s KOA campground providing a sense of being out in the boonies. The only sounds were melodious feathered friends flitting from tree to tree and the crunch of the earth beneath my feet. The trail was still rain soaked from the night before and my footprints were the only visible signs of roaming humanity. Very soul refreshing and spirit renewing. There were 2 rope swings. Who could pass that up—not me. The ropes were long, the branch high, and I had a ball swinging–all alone and by myself.

24 May – A year or 2 ago we met a couple whose boat was in the same marina as ours. We met Stel and Burke who are from Charleston. We joined them that evening for the Mannheim Steamroller Christmas Concert. The concert was in a very old downtown theatre–so old that I used to have my dance recitals there.The performance was magnificent.

     End of my long tale. We’ve not been in contact with them but on FB, Stel saw that we are in Mount Pleasant. On the spur of the moment, we met them at Vickery’s on Shem Creek for lunch and completely delighted in their company and conversation. Now!!! We’ve been in this KOA for 2 weeks and have not met a single soul but were able to connect with a boating couple we met in 2014 and haven’t seen since. T’was difficult to say goodbye. Just another example of the vast diff in RV-ers and boaters.

26 May – Before leaving Mt. Pleasant, SC, more boating friends, Deidre and Bob, had us in their home for a ‘going away’ dinner. The story of how we met many years ago is another interesting saga of the attraction that Sea Urchins have to each other.

     Our drive north on Highway 17 has always been captivating as we “re-enjoy” the quaintness of that stretch—particularly Pawley’s Island.
28 May – Just arrived at the beautiful, tranquil, and pastoral Olverson’s Marina/Lodge Creek Yacht Club, Lottsburg, VA. Always been here by boat so arriving by motor coach is kinda weird. Their swimmable pool has just been refurbished and is beautiful. We’ll be here a few days as we pack for a trip to LA to visit son, Geoff; daughter, Courtney; and granddaughter, Alleigh. From there to Vegas where son, Andy, is wedding the love of his life, Whitney. Packing efficiently has never been my forte although friend, Jeanne, is my role model. She packed for a 10 week European trip in a 21” carry-on. That seems like what I’d need for just a weekend but will try to follow in her footsteps. Out here there’s only swaying wheat, tiny corn stalks, nature at her best. 


Until next month–
Bill and Laura aboard M/C Kindred Spirit 

3 January 2016 St. Pete, FL- 20 May 2016 Mt. Pleasant, SC

By on May 20, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III
     It’s been so many months since I posted a blog that there’s no need in rehashing history.  Will include a few pictures and high lights and will begin with more current travels.      

     We said “goodbye” to the Pinellis Trail as we cycled across the peninsula and back home by way of Gulfport which was a glimpse back into the 1940’s.  we tossed our lines. The time there flew far too fast. Hope to spend the entire season there next year. Although we love the city, we do begin to get the itch to move on but knowing we’ll return lessens the sadness of leaving. 

     During one St. Pete weekend, we were on Treasure Island, and attended the Tampa Bay Cruisers mini-rendezvous. Great conversation and wonderful food. So glad we were included.

     Besides yoga, cycling, swimming, and walking, we were so fortunate to attend numerous concerts from all venues. For us, musical opportunities are usually few and far between.

     We had a lovely cruise after leaving St. Petersburg, arriving mid afternoon at Bradenton Yacht Club where we were welcomed by our friends, Eddie and Fred. Dinner in the dining room and the entire evening was delightful. The pool is 3 giants steps away from our slip so I took a plunge even before coffee. What a way to start the day.
     This is one of our most treasured possessions! Our friend, Rich, did this water color of our boat! When he and Sue presented it to us, I had NO words. First time ever that I’ve been rendered speechless! We are so humbled by the gift of his talent.

     Our Lake Okeechobee crossing couldn’t have been more ideal.  The lake was like a mill pond. Many people asked if we’d ever been to Moore Haven so that was a planned stop and now we can now answer in the affirmative.  Moore Haven occupies 1 square mile and is a pitifully sad little town. Making the acquaintance of Suzy and Michael made our stop there well worth it. We shared our anniversary dinner with them at a Mexican mom-pop joint ON paper plates and drinking water.  They don’t have a liquor license.  A unique experience to say the least.

     As cruisers, we really don’t need reminders of the fragility and stupidity of making plans, agendas, itineraries, schedules. Vero Beach was never on our list of intended stops but when the temps were/are low and the winds were/are howling, thanks to a kind-hearted friends, Jim and Betsy, who finagled a slip for us,  they were able to tuck in safely.This is why we choose to say that our cruising plans are cast in very dilute Jello. We can tell you where we’ll be or hope to be—but just not when.  Jim and Bets took us to one of their favorite places in Ft. Pierce, Taco Dive.  Love their decor—pallets on the wall and dusty bed springs hanging from the ceiling! Food is very tasty and we highly recommend the Drunken Burrito.  I was more than enough to share.

     A nippy and windy Vero Beach, FL. sunset but despite those 2 factors, we covered some territory on our bikes. Quite a few changes here since we were here last…and we can’t recall when that was.  :-(

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     One evening we had a delightful dinner with Dick and Mela and just as we arrived home, the rain began. The next day the sun was shining beautifully but the wind was blowing like mad. We have 2 bow, 2 stern, and 4 springs and we’re still rocking and rolling. No complaints. We’re safe and a great day to accomplish some long-neglected “wanna do’s”. 

      We’re being able to connect with so many of our boating friends but motor homing isn’t like this. Out of 6 months we connected not with a single soul. Guess all our friends are water lovers.

     We were able to spend several days with our wonderful friend, Bobbi, on Merritt Island. Love love love going to visit her.  She’s a wonderful hostess and a bunch of fun.
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Good morning from NASA Causeway Anchorage. This is a glorious morning!

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     Our stop at Smyrna Yacht Club is always a wonderful few days because we get to spend them with John and Cozette. Saturday was spent appreciating first class music of all genres and remarkable art displayed the length of Canal Street, Riverside Park, and a lengthy portion of Riverside Drive. Our visit concluded (till we meet again) Saturday night with a view of the sunset from their dock, cocktails beside the fire pit and one of Cozette’s masterful dinners. John and Joan, whom we’d not seen in several years, were also there and we lapped up tales of what’s transpired in our lives since last we were together. Thank you, Cozette and John, for a memorable evening.

     Loved my trek down the beach south of Marineland in search of coquina outcroppings, until the skies opened up and there I was in shorts and a tee shirt, wet to the bone, and shivering to the point of chattering teeth.The high point of being here was having dinner with our friends Gary and Vicki at Captain’s BBQ Bait and Tackle. The 4 of us talked a mile a minute just trying to catch up since last we had the opportunity to leisurely visit.This was a great and very enjoyable evening. 
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Brunswick Landing Marina Dock Master, Sherrie, and me.
     Enjoying a wonderful dinner of fillets tender enough to cut with a fork in Brunswick. We’re sitting too close to the bar not to be reminded of the truth that alcohol does NOT bring out the best in those who are imbibers. Wonderful date night. You never get too old for romancing.

Cycled length of St. Simon’s Island, south to north and back—from The Village to Fort Frederica, returning to The Village.  Beautiful day and perfect weather. Tried my hardest to hurl sticks at those oranges tempting me in so many front yards but no luck. Fear I might’ve been throwing like a gurl.

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     I made a mad dash into a store and there stands my next patient. Again, TMI, but she told me all about her Crohnes and the trials, tribulations and embarrassing moments that has caused her. Gave her the name and number of a possible solution and bid her farewell. I should keep a diary.

     Along that same vein, Bill and I had a very unusual experience and it was particularly so for him because this kind of thing happens to me ALL the time and when I come home and tell him, he’s probably thinking, “Yeah!  Right!”.  Strangers invariably approach me to tell me their medical and psychological issues. Don’t know what it is about my face that invites total strangers to come up to me and bare their souls. They don’t even know I’m a RN when they start reeling off symptoms and telling me far too much about their physical maladies.

     We were taking a little walk one day adorned with our Santa hats when a woman pulled up beside us in her car and yells out the window, “Merry Christmas”. She was grinning from ear to ear. She sprung from her car, called us ‘darling’ and ‘precious’ and held our hands. She asked if we “live around here” so Bill always launches into that story with the same exuberance and enthusiasm in his voice as the first time he ever told it…so long ago and far way. I thought she might’ve been a little lady we’d met last night at the Christmas service but no.  She introduced herself as ‘Brender” and began to bend our ears about her 3 husbands. One had a gear shift accident to the groin and she regaled us with graphic detail of post op results of his reconstruction. Definitely TMI.


She told us she’s almost 65 and wants a husband so bad. She grabbed onto Bill’s hand and she wants a man who’ll be good to her, love her, and hold her hand. Suggest she try E-Harmony but got the impression that she isn’t computer literate so I asked if she went to church and she does but there’s one 49 y/o man who is alway groping.   She demo’d on me and I’m about to get the heebie jeebies. She said she probably shouldn’t let him enter her home anymore…but “he’s so nice and he prays for me evertime he comes over.”
How about singing in the choir? Her church doesn’t have a choir but when last husband left her, she wrote a song and sang it for us as she held our hands. She has a beautiful voice. Would she like to be a volunteer pet walker for the pound or deliver Meals on Wheels or volunteer in her church or go visit with the elderly shut-in’s in nursing homes. Don’t think she was receptive to any of my supposed solutions. We caught her eye because we were holding hands as we walked and she thought that was so sweet. We hugged her goodbye and continued on our way. 30 minutes later she tracked us down, blows the horn as she drives by, and waving to beat the band. Of all my similar experiences, that  one takes the cake! Just an unusually long and puzzling encounter with a stranger who just needed to share



     Our interactions never go this long and it’s usually just a medical question. I could be a housekeeper for all they know. In Belk the other day a woman came up to me asking if I shop there often and her face was so contorted like she was in a world of hurt. So then she asked if I knew where the restroom was. THAT I knew so sent her on her werry may and hope she got there quickly enough.


     In Valdosta, we picked up our motor coach and now we’re back in Mount Pleasant, SC.  It feels so much like returning to our roots. First day here we were gone for for 12 hours–appointments, coffee with Deidre and Bob, dinner with Betsy and Jim and quite a bit of errand-running. Although we lived in Greenville for so many years as well as retired from there, this is where we feel really at home. Bill and his good buddy Mark reconnected and lots of old car and British car talk has ensued between them with more to come.  We’ll be here for a couple of weeks in the KOA Campground. Great location. Publix is near as is great cycling and walking opportunities. Had to go to Apple Store one afternoon and the things we saw twixt here and downtown was amazing.  We were here 5 months ago and it’s surprising how much King Street has changed. Many new shops just begging me to wander through their portals. Construction here has gone berserk as is evidenced by a forest of cranes hard at work regardless of the direction that you look.. Charleston/Mt. Pleasant is looking VERY prosperous. After Day 1, we’ve taken it easy, enjoying our pastoral environment, sitting in the great outdoors doing absolutely nothing, loving the breeze and rustling leaves and that feels good. A long weekend visit to Greenville so Bill could catch up with his Michelin buds and sadly, attend the funeral of one of the nicest men you’d ever hope to meet. Barney will be terribly missed!


Bill and Laura
Monaco Dynasty Motor Coach
KOA Campground
Mt. Pleasant, SC





31 December 2015 Cape Charles – Kilmarnock – Williamsburg, VA, – Raleigh, NC, – Florence, SC, – North Myrtle Beach – Mount Pleasant – Charleston, Stone Mountain – Atlanta – Greenville, SC, – Travelers Rest, SC, – Hendersonville, NC, – Longview, TX, – Daphne, AL, – Brunswick, GA

By on January 3, 2016 in Kindred Spirit III
     Before you even begin reading, I’m asking for absolution.  I’m pretty certain there are lots of “repeats” so forgive and forget.

    

     As we began to head south, we spent a few days in Cape Charles, VA, for a trawler rendezvous and extra days as we waited for good weather.  Funny that insurance states that we have to have our boat out of FL during hurricane season and we did—yet Joaquin followed us to VA, skipping FL.

     We visited Kilmarnock, VA, while Bill happily assisted Bob Smith with his very last diesel engine class.  Bill never gets enough of Bob’s wisdom and knowledge and would tuck himself into Bob’s back pocket if he could.

     

     Williamsburg, VA, our next stop, is such a beautiful city filled to the brim with history. This is truly one of our American treasures. 

     Besides expanding our horizons, we also got more than 5 miles of walking logged per day. Knowing how the famous Bill Bender Walking Tours are, we had to get an early start. Walk-out-the-door time was set for 0800—and we got home after dark. 

 

     The little guy in the stroller exemplified my feelings when day was done. We’ve had 2 days of “learning and walking” on the BB Walking Tour of Colonial Williamsburg, VA.   On Day 2 of 2 of the Revolutionary City Tour, we were weary from miles of walking and our brains were overloaded with history—- memory-refreshing and new information. This has been an exciting weekend of learning and remembering. The actors employed here are absolutely magnificent. They’re dressed in the era of 1770’s and speak as if they’re still there. I spoke with a lady who was there for her 6th day. She must return home the next day and said she hasn’t seen or done even half of the things that were on her list.



     Next stop, Raleigh, NC. for 2 days. Love that city.  Bill spent the first day cycling and I spent every second in the NC Science Museum. Couldn’t get enough. Didn’t nearly finish and will return tomorrow. On Day 2, I dragged Bill with me to the Science Museum but the exhibit I most want him to see was “unexpectedly closed today”. That was the exhibit showing the 3-D printer and some of its products as well as remote vehicles with sensors. 

     Our nephew, Ron, and his children live in Florence, SC, and we very much relished spending an evening with them. Teagan and Rigel were amazing conversationalists with adults. Every time we see them, they’re taller, smarter, and older. How does that happen when we haven’t aged???????

     For years we’ve seen South of the Border billboards but never stopped but now we can say “yes” when asked if we’ve ever been to SOB.  What a cultural experience.  Looks like a big ghost town that’s hanging on for dear life. We went into a huge store with many employees and thousands of things for sale that we couldn’t imagine anyone ever needing or wanting. In that huge expanse, we were the only two “potential” shoppers. This is yet another of our experiences of going to South of the Border twice in one trip–our first and last! Our curiosity has been satisfied.


South of the Border Motor Hotel

     King’s Famous Pizza called our names and by chance, we met up with dear friends, Kim and Roger, in North Myrtle Beach. Didn’t expect to be able to see them so this was a real serendipity.

   Charleston/Mount Pleasant doesn’t have many RV parks and the few that are there weren’t terribly convenient for us.  Mt. Pleasant’s KOA was the best and most favorable so that’s where we tucked in for a bit and then back to the boat to resume cleaning and organizing. 

    

Downtown from Marion Square during Farmer’s Market

         Downtown Charleston’s Farmer’s Market with crafts and music in Marion Square is a Saturday or Sunday “thing to do”. Wonderful memory refresher from when we lived here. No weekend in Charleston would be complete without a stroll through the Marion Square Farmer’s Market.

     I could not resist capturing this baby who could make fast tracks in the park on her feet and hands.  A unique way of crawling, I suppose.

     We’re so happy to be back in our home church, Seacoast in Mt. Pleasant. They were short on volunteer greeters so we were drafted and got to man our old station. This was such a treat for us—we’ve missed this so much! One of the very few down sides of our life style.


     Late lunch Ye Old Fashioned Ice Cream and Sandwich Café. Best Reubens in the world PLUS 32 oz chocolate peanut butter milkshake! 
     Onward to Greenville and a sweet visit with our friends, Dave and Jill.  We joined them at their church, enjoyed a leisurely lunch. Yet to come, a trip to Traveler’s Rest to visit with Courtney, our daughter, and a quick trip to Hendersonville, NC, for a brief and long overdue “mountain fix”.   Love these hills!!  A fun day


     In Greenville, we finally met Jeanne and Michael with whom we’d been in touch via emails, texts, and FaceBook for years.  They’re just as fun and darling as I’d imagined.

     
Stone Mountain and Lake, GA

     Stone Mountain and Atlanta, here we come! We toured CNN and the Carter Library. My brother, Bob, has lived in ATL for 40+ years and hasn’t been to either. Isn’t that typical! We rarely see “tourist attractions” in our home town but when we move away, we go there on vacation to see all the things we could’ve seen while living there. He and his friend, Nancy, (my adopted sister) came for dinner one night in our coach on Stone Mountain. Last night we walked to a little restaurant near Bob’s shop. I love his funky neighborhood where people watching is outstanding. Told them that I love the weirdness in Inman Park/4th Ward and they said they see weirdness every day so don’t even notice it anymore. So since he and Nancy don’t see “uniqueness”, then we must be the strangeness. Stone Mountain is a magnificent park.  Camp sites were very private and the cycling was exhilarating—-if you have a love for hills.

    This portrait is amazing and very impressive when you are afforded a close-up view.  Try this link.  http://encircleworldphotos.photoshelter.com/image/I0000hCJTrMvRSOg

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     We loved the Carter Museum/Library and are leaving with much more respect and admiration for him than we already had although we held him in very high esteem. What a wonderful man with excellent values and morals is Jimmy Carter.
View of downtown Atlanta from behind the Carter Library


     In Covington, GA, we visited with Wolfgang and Pilar, friends from Greenville and Michelin.  We appreciated a fondue dinner in their home and the evening culminated with the Democratic Debate. An enlightening and enjoyable day.

      Winding down our 6 months of RV-ing and eager to get back to our boat. I love the conveniences of our coach but miss being outdoors and long for our fly- bridge and the less regimented life.

  At last we arrived in Brunswick to our Home Sweet Home. 

The Park between Brunswick’s Main Street and the Marina


Brunswick Landing Marina

              



There she is–all covered up and tucked in just as we left her
     It’s time for a rest and green tea break from transferring our carnage from one domicile to the other. Thank goodness, each is only about 300 SF but it’s still a chore. An every 6-month purge is good. Much of my stuff (I would never be so bold as to “manage” Bill’s treasures) has gone in the trash and some to the Captains’ Lounge on the table of “free to a good home” flotsam/jetsam. I’d forgotten the horrors of moving. 
      Of course we’ve done extensive cycling on Jekyll and St. Simons. Both are great places for bikes or walking–the best way to see the little villages.

I love the way the wind sculpts the trees.

The Millionaire’s Club
Jekyll Island, GA

     I loved this ride.  Not a sound other than popping acorns beneath my tires, the scurry of squirrels making a last run as they provision for the winter, and the hollow echo of a woodpecker on his quest for supper.
Sunset from Jekyll Island

Thank goodness Auburn finally had a win!
     Our first morning back, I was onboard our boat with doors and windows open and over-heard 3-4 couples out on the dock introducing themselves and chatting. That really rejuvenated my memories of our 7 months aboard our coach. We’d been told from the get-go that RV-ers are a different breed from boaters and that is absolutely the gospel! In all that time we didn’t connect with a single solitary soul—no, not one!!! In the 24 hours we’ve been here, we’ve met many couples and it could be a toss up as to which one of us initiated the chat. We spoke to many RV-ers and either they were mute or just chose to ignore us. Bill thought it was because we didn’t sit around in the campgrounds but we aren’t lollygagging here, either. Maybe it’s because motor homes don’t have names and boats do…or boaters are gregarious and RV-ers are loners?? Regardless, we’re loving being back among boats, boaters, and the water. Tea cup’s empty but I don’t know where to resume with the mess. I’m just so thankful again that we don’t have a REAL house. 
     At Brunswick Landing Marina, complimentary beer flows freely 24/7; wine, M-W-F; bring your instrument and join the the jam session on Tuesdays; yoga every morning; pot luck on Sunday nights…. That’s all I’ve learned about so far and stumbled upon those activities by accident. I’m sure there must be many more that I’ve yet to unwrap. But no time to play.  Gotta get back to work!

     It took us an entire week to unload the coach and it’s all tossed into the boat. We made dozens of trips back and forth hauling, tossing, and putting on the “free table”. Don’t think moving from our house on land was this much work. We we departed terra firma, we just picked and chose what we wanted then opened the doors to our church, then to the women’s shelter. Come and get it! And 7 years later we’re STILL getting rid of stuff. Our boat is so disheveled that if someone broke in, they’d turn around and leave thinking someone already beat them to it. What a mess but out of sight, out of mind.

     Off we go again to store the motor home in Lake Park, GA, at Alliance Coach, to be winterized, and from there, to Longview, TX,  to spend Thanksgiving with all my children except for one and to meet our new daughter-in-law, Whitney, Andy’s bride, and new grandson, Grayson. We have so very much for which to be thankful.

Andy, my 3rd born and Izzi, our 12 year old granddaughter

We met someone we didn’t know about.  Grayson, our new grandson, was given a 6 week old 6 pound Harlequin Great Dane.  Some one was always holding her.  This explains how 200 pound dogs continue to believe themselves to still be lap dogs.

A 6 pound bundle of adorableness

     We felt as if we were watching her grow…and I think we were.  Her back legs were longer every day and that little belly looked so full.

My 4th born, Stephen, from Austin, catching some Z’s while the puppy rests up so she can continue decorating the white carpets.

     After Thanksgiving in Longview, we followed our oldest son, Chad, and his son, our grandson, Zac, to their new home in Daphne. It was time to rise and shine the next morning for church and afterward, we went to the Fish River Christmas Tree Farm in search of the perfect tree. Zac found it which earned him the privilege of lying on his belly in his Sunday clothes to saw it down. Fun experience.  It is HUGE!!!


Zac, trying to fell this mammoth tree.
Dad Chad, giving Zac some “sawing instructions.”

     On our way back to Brunswick, we HAD to stop in Pensacola for oysters at the Atlas with Tony and Andy; a trip to Joe Patti’s to fill a cooler to bring home; and breakfast at BagelHeads.




      We stayed in a hotel located in the old L and N Railroad Depot with a grand view of Pensacola Bay from our 11th floor corner room. 



Lobby of hotel and old depot

     As children, my brother, Bob, and I took too many trips to our 2 old maid aunt’s home in Milton, FL, to spend weekends while our parents went to Auburn games. The pleasures of the weekend erased those sordid memories.


     Aren’t they cute!! Lunch with my only living aunt, Annie Ruth, 91 years young, and her daughter, my cousin, Debby. Long ago when Annie Ruth lived on a farm, had little babies crawling around, was perpetually pregnant, (it seems to me although I birthed just as many as she did), and she was always smiling—just like here–and would stop in the middle of kneading dough to sit down at the piano and play Flight of the Bumble Bee, Under the Eagle–or any of my numerous requests. She’s still playing for residents in her assisted living home. And not to slight Debby, she’s as cute as a button and smart as a whip. Never have I seen her countenance void of a smile. Love them both to infinity!


My Aunt Ruth, 91 years young, and her daughter/my cousin, Debby.  Aren’t they just the cutest little people?!

     We’ve seen a lot of rural GA, AL, and MS, as we’ve traipsed through the south. There are lots of Americans who are not living well and are existing far below the poverty level. Brunswick is among them.  This is such a depressed area but the marina is separate and apart from the poverty—unless you venture off the property.


        This morning on my walk, I wished a good morning to a precious, elderly man (he’s probably my junior) who was riding his bike. He made my day when he replied, “Good morning to you, too, young lady.” I skipped, danced, and sang all the way home.  
     I do love these old trees whose mossy beards dance in the light breeze. Reminds me of my growing-up days in Pensacola, FL. with a park directly in front of our house has huge oaks and still is festooned with this silvery green Spanish moss.
Never will I tire of the graceful oaks with their arms spread wide welcoming all

      The day after Christmas we went to Travelers Rest again for several days to visit with daughter Courtney, granddaughter, Alleigh, and son Geoff who was visiting from L.A. 



Geoff, Alleigh, Bill, and Courtney

     That little burg of TR was merely a wide spot in the road 10 years ago and it has taken off like a shot and reminds me of a mini-Asheville.  A delightful little village.  

      As we were leaving town, we had a short but meaningful visit with Marybeth, my long time swimming buddy and Jim, (he and Bill were colleagues at Michelin.)  They’re our very special friends in Greenville who are going through a very difficult and trying time right now so we ask that you remember them in your prayers.

     Gotta conclude with a strange tale–fairly typical for me but totally has never happened to Bill. Today, Bill and I had a very unusual experience and particularly for him because this kind of thing happens to me ALL the time.  Always has!  Don’t know if I have a neon sign on my forehead that invites total strangers to come up to me and bare their souls.  They don’t even know what my background is yet they start reeling off symptoms and telling me far too much about their physical maladies.

Christmas Day, we were taking a little walk when a woman pulled up beside us in her car and yells out the window, “Merry Christmas”.  She was grinning from ear to ear.  She sprung from her car, called us ‘darling’ and ‘precious’ and held our hands.  She asked if we “live around here” so Bill always launches into that story with the same exuberance and enthusiasm in his voice as the first time he ever told it…so long ago and far way. I thought she might’ve been a little lady we’d met last night at the Christmas service but no.

     Our new best friend introduced herself as ‘Brender” and began to bend our ears about her 3 husbands.  One had a gear shift accident to the groin and she regaled us with graphic detail of his post op results of his reconstruction.  Definitely TMI.
     
     She told us she’s almost 65 and wants a husband so bad.  She grabbed onto Bill’s hand and she wants a man who’ll be good to her, love her, and hold her hand. Suggest she try E-Harmony but got the impression that she isn’t computer literate so I asked if she went to church and she does but there’s one 49 y/o man who is alway groping and she demo’d on me and I’m about to get the willies by now.  I advised that she probably shouldn’t let him enter her home anymore…but “he’s so nice and he prays for me.” Very lonely little lady.

Stone Mountain Lake

Check this out!  Bill, who claims to be anti-dog….

Whitney, our new daughter-in-law and Andy’s precious bride

Son Chad and grandson Zac, trudging off to school and work after the Thanksgiving holidays.

A wood carving and pretty accurate replica of Frank Patti calling the numbers

An Old Salt standing guard in a corner of Joe Patti’s

The well-known St. Simons light that Eugenia Price loved to portray in her trilogy.

Our view from the top overlooking Ashley Marina, our home for 3 years before we dropped our lines.

Sage, an Australian Shepherd and Standard Poodle mix.  He is brushed daily and groomed weekly.  A magnificent animal.

     While visiting our children in Greenville, we visited the museum and found it intriguing.  We lived there for decades and never went but of course we signed up for the tourist thing!

     This heavily ladened orange tree on St. Simons needed some relief but as hard as I tried, I couldn’t knock them down by throwing sticks.  Don’t imagine I’ll be recruited as a pitcher.  
     New Year’s Eve we took a great bike ride on Saint Simons from stem to stern.
St. Simons Island Monument
 to Charles and John Wesley,
Founders of Methodism

     We’re back on the boat, however unsure when we’ll be able to head south but will let you know where we’re outa here.

Happy New Year to all and we pray for world peace as 2016 begins.

Bill and Laura
Brunswick, GA

31 December 2015

5 October 2015 – Lexington, KY – Rochester, NY – Finger Lakes Region, NY – Ithaca, NY – Cape Charles, VA

By on October 6, 2015 in Kindred Spirit III

     From St. Louis, MO, we made tracks to Louisville, KY, where we spent several days.  This is the home of Churchill Downs and numerous distilleries.  We took a tour of the Downs and watching a race was part of the deal.

How can you not LOVE the hats!

     Probably the best known distillery is the Evan Williams and their Bourbon Experience, located in the heart of downtown Louisville, combines two of America’s favorite things—history and Bourbon.  We took the Speak Easy Tour and were led through a pseudo fire place and fake safe door. After providing the correct password to the proprietor, we were admitted into his Speak Easy bar looking like it came right out of the Prohibition Days.  We learned that in those days there were 3 political parties—the Democrats, Republicans, and the Prohibitionists.  The latter group probably morphed into the Tea Party of today. 


     There were 30,000 Speak Easys in NYC during prohibition and interestingly enough, crime was increased during that time—far greater than when bars and saloons were allowed.  Our guide was an excellent actor and attired as you’d expect an “illegal” bartender to be.  His Speak Easy is beautiful with a dark wood glistening bar; antique furniture, dark paneling—making us feel like we were in a time warp.  By the way, Evan Williams was KY’s first commercial distiller and the only grain they use is corn.  


     Our next stop of significance was Cincinnati, OH.  This probably won’t be amusing to you but it cracks me up—I must be easily entertained. Guess what street our RV Park was on??? Round Bottom Road!!! They had to dig deep to come up with that name. 

     This was our first visit to Cincinnati and our first taste of Cincinnati Chili at the famous Skyline Chili in downtown. Call me a skeptic but cinnamon in chili? It was absolutely outstanding! Our server said she puts bibs on all first-timers.  The manager, cook, and server treated us like royalty.  We had the 5 Way Chili—-spaghetti, watery/runny chili, beans, onions, and about 5 pounds of cheese on top.  The cook emerged from his cocina and said he saw us trying to twirl but said, “that spaghetti is all cut up.  You can’t twirl Cincinnati Chili” and they all laughed.  That was really a fun experience—gastronomically speaking as well as entertaining.



     The staff said if we really wanted to round out our Cincinnati experience, we needed to walk over to Fountain Square and have Graeter’s Black Cherry Chocolate Chip ice cream.  We were obedient and it was mouth wateringly scrumptious and a treat for the palate.  We told Graeter’s that Skyline Chili sent us so they described a pizza joint around the corner but we could not eat another crumb.  We have it filed away for next time.  Perhaps an omen and warning from the street name of Round Bottom—-to shun Graeter’s Ice Cream and Skyline Chili. Round Bottom—a prophecy?  The city has a magnificent waterfront with miles of paved hiking/walking/cycling paths.  We had a fabulous time in Cincinnati. 

     Lake Erie State Park, Brockton, NY, provided a very refreshing interlude.  We’ve been going to commercial/privately owned campgrounds that have a different flavor than state and national parks.  The views were breathtaking from high bluffs that overlooked Lake Erie.  The sites were huge with mature shade trees and we were perched right on the water’s edge.  This park is smack dab in the middle of the Lake Erie Concord Grape Belt providing easy access to many fine wineries.

     We’re right on the water and even though it looks as if it’d be smooth sailing out there, the waves are lapping at the shale shoreline. The soothing sounds are reminiscent of my years spent on Pensacola Beach—however this may be a tad more comfortable. We’re kicked back in our recliners beneath the huge mature leafy trees listening to the tranquilizing rhythmical music of water meeting shore; no blinding sun nor sand in our chairs. This is so palliating after a hard day of retirement. I just may never want to leave here. Trees are showing some color changes; wood camp fires are filling the air with the sweet scent of fall; the park is meticulously maintained and only the wave’s reverberation and the bird’s song pierce the air. This is peace personified!

     Bill’s sister, Doris, and her quite large family live in upstate NY and we were eager to spend a few days visiting there. Her green thumb produces a flower garden comprised of a palette of colors and varieties.  I love nothing better than real homegrown tomatoes.  She had so many that they were rotting on the ground and on the vine.  I tried to rescue as many as I could.  

     She surprised us with a bottle of wine named Kindred Spirit.  In case you don’t know, that’s our boat’s name.





     Who’d have ever thought!  We enjoyed visiting with so many family members. Bill took me on a Bender Tour of every place he ever lived in that area, the schools he attended, his university, companies where he’d worked, and the reminiscent journey wouldn’t be complete without one of his favorite meals from a historic greasy spoon and then a trip lakeside for a big bowl of Abbott’s Frozen Custard which is a great way to build up that big ol’ layer of fat for the wintertime.  


     We were looking forward to seeing New York’s Finger Lakes.  We’ve been there by boat but the perspective from land is somewhat different.  Just outside of Ithaca, we found a very remote (that translates into no phone or wifi) park that was another piece of solace. At last! A break in our marathon travels to don our hiking duds and hit the trails.  This region is exquisite and a water-lover’s utopia with lakes, cascading waterfalls, rivers and creeks, all carved thousands of years ago by ice-age glaciers. Consequently, this makes for some of the best wine-growing areas in the world!




     It was quite interesting to learn that, per square mile, there are 758 graduate-degree-holders in Ithaca.  One one hill of the city is a Tibetan monastery and on another, a 50,000 watt solar plant.  One of the breweries grows its own hops, a deli raises its own pork and a bar that mixes its cocktails based on what’s fresh at the farmers market.  Do they have waterfalls???  There are over 100 within 10 square miles of downtown.


     The Ithaca area provided more hiking opportunities than we could explore in our 5 days there.  The highlight being Watkins Glen State Park, the oldest and most famous of the Finger Lakes State Parks.   Glen Creek has poured down the glacially-steep valley for 12,000 years leaving 19 glistening waterfalls and cascades from its paths.


      Watkins Glen State Park is the most famous of the Finger Lakes Parks. Within two miles, the glen’s stream descends 400 feet past 200-foot cliffs, generating 19 waterfalls along its course. The gorge path winds over and under waterfalls and rim trails overlook the gorge. We hiked the Indian and Gorge Trails which includes more than 800 stone steps and our foot prints are on every single one of them.  

     Cavern Cascade is one of the two waterfalls that we could walk behind, made possible by the wearing away of a thin layer of shale rock underneath a tougher layer of sandstone.  Rainbow Falls is the other one and in late afternoon, the sun creates a rainbow there.
     Fractures in the rocks tell a story.  The cracks, called joints, run up the wall.  We followed them with our eyes across the creek bed and up the opposite wall.  They represent a continental collision that pushed up the Appalachians in PA and the Allegheny Plateau which includes the Finger Lakes Region.

     The Treman State Park is an area of wild beauty with the rugged gorge called Enfield Glen as its scenic highlight.  We hiked the winding trails following the gorge past 12 waterfalls, including the 115 foot Lucifer Falls.  Our hike led us through an oasis of cool (enough for a sweatshirt), dense woods in a long, narrow gorge.  The trails also offer spectacular views, unique geological formations and a narrow valley quite rich botanically. On site is a historic 19th century grist mill that was interesting to see its preserved remains.

      I took a day off to read and paint so Bill, fueled by his youth and never-needs-recharging batteries, hiked 8 miles of Buttermilk Falls which gets its name from the foaming cascade formed by Buttermilk Creek, flowing down the steep valley into Cayuga Lake, another of the Finger Lakes.
     
      NY’s Finger Lakes area is definitely a destination and for more than just a few days.  If you relish immersing yourselves in nature and enjoy hiking, put this on your traveling Bucket List.  We found it absolutely “gorge-ous” and were left spellbound.

     For Bill, the trip’s highlight was the Canadian Rockies.  For me, it was the zipping!  I believe we’d both agree that Watkins Glen ran a very close second.

     Kinda feel like we’re winding down as we travel to Cape Charles, VA, for our semi-annual trawler rendezvous.  Then we’ll put “home” in our cross hairs and travel southward as we head to Kindred Spirit III who’s awaiting our return as she rests in Brunswick, GA.  We both admit to missing her although 6 months of land travel has been a wonderful respite.


     Cherrystone RV Park, Cape Charles, VA, is huge!  There are 300 acres right on Chesapeake Bay and over 700 campsites. There are FOUR swimming pools but for some reason that I fail to understand, above the Mason-Dixon Line, pool plugs are pulled Labor Day.  The weather’s just as nice as it was then so what’s the deal?  We’re right on the bay and an unobstructed view to the west with beautiful sunsets!

     We have seen many many things but it has really been a marathon of a trip.  Next season we’ll go slower and stop and smell the roses.  There’s no way to see it all but we sure did try.  I would’ve loved more “lay days” and when the opportunity was presented, I relished every moment.

    
 Now our blog’s all caught up and my feelings of guilt about being remiss have vanished with the currently setting sun.


“You must search for the loveliness of  America. It is scattered. It is not obvious.  But when you find it, it touches you and binds you to it like a great secret oath taken in silence.”

     Struthers Burt, Jackson Hole, WY, Dude Rancher 1934



Bill and Laura
Cape Charles, VA