Feb. 14 – Jayuya, PR

“Those who follow the crowd usually get lost in it.”  —Rick Watson

We traveled east out of Jayuya today to explore some popular tourist places and to find some pretty waterfalls. Our first stop was at La Piedra Escrita (the written stone). This beautiful park offers wonderful views of the mountains and a great place to swim in the tranquil water. But it’s best known for the large granite boulder that is covered in pictographs. The site was added to the United States National Register of Historic Places in 2003 due to its importance as a prime example of prehistoric rock art in Puerto Rico. 

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Second Trip to Marina Costa Baja, Day 12 — La Paz and Black/Grey Water Tanks

On Friday (February 10), Christi had an appointment for another haircut, so we took the 0900 shuttle into town. From the cathedral (where we were dropped off), we walked a few blocks south to a bank to use the ATM. … Continue reading →

Drake Passage Northbound

The Drake Passage lived up to its reputation for big weather on our two-night passage back to Ushuaia from the Girlache Strait. We experienced 33-40 ft (10-12m) seas with winds blowing steadily 60 kts and gusting to 70. We didn’t, however, experience the dreaded “Drake Shake”. The National Geographic Endurance handled the conditions remarkably well,…

Feb. 13 – Cañon Blanco

“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the journey.” -Babs Hoffman 
There’s a saying that the journey is better than the destination or something like that. Our true adventure today was getting to the destination. If you travel to Puerto Rico I suggest not counting on Google to get you where you want to go. Yesterday and today it took us on some pretty out of the way roads that ended up at a dead end or turned into a river bottom. We could see we were so close but we just couldn’t get there. If Stan hadn’t been so determined to find our intended destination I would have given up and gone home. Some of the roads were a little scary. We were right on the edge of a mountain on roads that were no wider than our car, but the views were amazing. 

Some of the views while we were looking for Cañon Blanco.

We finally used Waze and arrived at Cañon Blanco on the Caonillas River. It was so impressive and worth the effort it took for us to find it. The glowing, white rock canyon, stands out against the lush greenery of the forest and the beautiful blue sky. It was completely different than anything we’ve seen.

Looking up river from the canyon.

Looking down river towards the canyon.

The beginning of the first canyon. The canyon was deeper and more impressive here.
This is the beginning of the second canyon we thought it was very pretty also.

We even found a waterfall called Cascada la Danzante (the dancing waterfall) at the end of the canyon where the river starts to flatten out.

This is as far as we explored…we loved this area of Puerto Rico.

In numerous places along the river we found pre-Columbian petroglyphs carved into the rocks by the Taino Indians.  

Feb. 13 – Cañon Blanco

“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the journey.” -Babs Hoffman 
There’s a saying that the journey is better than the destination or something like that. Our true adventure today was getting to the destination. If you travel to Puerto Rico I suggest not counting on Google to get you where you want to go. Yesterday and today it took us on some pretty out of the way roads that ended up at a dead end or turned into a river bottom. We could see we were so close but we just couldn’t get there. If Stan hadn’t been so determined to find our intended destination I would have given up and gone home. Some of the roads were a little scary. We were right on the edge of a mountain on roads that were no wider than our car, but the views were amazing. 

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

South Georgia Island

February 12, 2023 – Grytviken, South Georgia Island

 

Seabourn Quest anchored off of King Edward Point, Cumberland Bay at 0700 in windy, but relatively calm conditions since the wind was from the west over the land, so no fetch.  Clearance procedures to go ashore took some time, but the ship scored 100% on the biosecurity inspections.

 

We were taken ashore by zodiac and walked by the graveyard where Sir Ernest Shackleton and  Frank Wild among others are buried.  We could not enter the graveyard itself since the path was blocked by numerous Elephant Seas and hundreds of Southern Fur Seals and pups.  Walking around the bay we passed by King Penguins, more fur seals, and the remnants of the whaling equipment, abandoned when the Norwegians stopped whaling in the 1960’s.

 

Shackleton Grave from our 2016 Trip

Many of the buildings have been torn down as part of asbestos abatement, but there were still plenty of photo opportunities.  The church is in good shape.  There is a museum, post office and gift shop.  The museum includes a replica of the James Caird, the lifeboat that Shackleton and 5 others sailed to South Georgia from Elephant Island.

 

Whalers Church, Grytviken

Remnants of the whaling equipment

Replica of the James Caird

King Penguins, Grytviken

Whalers Church Interior

Whalers Church

Fur Seal pup feeding

Fur Seal Pups

Rusting machinery and buildings

Following our visit to Grytviken, the captain sailed a short distance up the coast and entered Stromness Harbor, the site of another abandoned whaling station.  This is the station that Shackleton arrived at with two others after the arduous trek from the other side of the island.  Seabourn Quest remained anchored in the bay in front of the station until midnight.

 

Abandoned Norwegian Whaling Ship

Grytviken, South Georgia Island

Stromness Whaling Station where Shackleton arrived on foot

February 13, 2023 – Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island

 

Early in the morning, in fog, we took up position 3000 feet off the beach landing site.  At 0830 we began beach landings to see up to 500,000 King Penguins and hundreds of fur seals and pups nestled in the Tussock Grass.  The beach landing was exciting and to walk among that many birds in a single colony stretching up into the hills and extending for miles along the beach was amazing, as was the noise and the smell. There were also giant petrels and Skuas looking for weak or small chicks to feast on.  Also several Blue Eyed Shags flew by.  Even with the low visibility and rain, it was truly stunning.

 

Part of the massive King Penguin Colony


Patrick had hoped to kayak here, but his excursion was cancelled due to low visibility.

 

By 1700 everyone who wanted to go ashore had done so, so all the zodiacs were recovered and we set sail for the Falkland Islands, a distance of approximately 740 NM.

  

South Georgia Island

February 12, 2023 – Grytviken, South Georgia Island

 

Seabourn Quest anchored off of King Edward Point, Cumberland Bay at 0700 in windy, but relatively calm conditions since the wind was from the west over the land, so no fetch.  Clearance procedures to go ashore took some time, but the ship scored 100% on the biosecurity inspections.

 

We were taken ashore by zodiac and walked by the graveyard where Sir Ernest Shackleton and  Frank Wild among others are buried.  We could not enter the graveyard itself since the path was blocked by numerous Elephant Seas and hundreds of Southern Fur Seals and pups.  Walking around the bay we passed by King Penguins, more fur seals, and the remnants of the whaling equipment, abandoned when the Norwegians stopped whaling in the 1960’s.

 

Shackleton Grave from our 2016 Trip

Many of the buildings have been torn down as part of asbestos abatement, but there were still plenty of photo opportunities.  The church is in good shape.  There is a museum, post office and gift shop.  The museum includes a replica of the James Caird, the lifeboat that Shackleton and 5 others sailed to South Georgia from Elephant Island.

 

Whalers Church, Grytviken

Remnants of the whaling equipment

Replica of the James Caird

King Penguins, Grytviken

Whalers Church Interior

Whalers Church

Fur Seal pup feeding

Fur Seal Pups

Rusting machinery and buildings

Following our visit to Grytviken, the captain sailed a short distance up the coast and entered Stromness Harbor, the site of another abandoned whaling station.  This is the station that Shackleton arrived at with two others after the arduous trek from the other side of the island.  Seabourn Quest remained anchored in the bay in front of the station until midnight.

 

Abandoned Norwegian Whaling Ship

Grytviken, South Georgia Island

Stromness Whaling Station where Shackleton arrived on foot

February 13, 2023 – Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island

 

Early in the morning, in fog, we took up position 3000 feet off the beach landing site.  At 0830 we began beach landings to see up to 500,000 King Penguins and hundreds of fur seals and pups nestled in the Tussock Grass.  The beach landing was exciting and to walk among that many birds in a single colony stretching up into the hills and extending for miles along the beach was amazing, as was the noise and the smell. There were also giant petrels and Skuas looking for weak or small chicks to feast on.  Also several Blue Eyed Shags flew by.  Even with the low visibility and rain, it was truly stunning.

 

Part of the massive King Penguin Colony


Patrick had hoped to kayak here, but his excursion was cancelled due to low visibility.

 

By 1700 everyone who wanted to go ashore had done so, so all the zodiacs were recovered and we set sail for the Falkland Islands, a distance of approximately 740 NM.

  

Second Trip tp Marina Costa Baja Days 9 – 11

Sunrise on Tuesday, February 7 The weather was back to cold and windy again. On Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, we mostly laid low in the marina. Eric finally completed a project that he’d started in San Diego: creating a system to … Continue reading →

Keith’s Perspective on La Paz (Costa Baja)/Le Point de vue de Keith sur La Paz (Marina Costa Baja)

I am having a good time at La Paz. We’ve eaten out a lot: breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner. Je passe un bon moment à La Paz. Nous mangeons beaucoup dehors : petit déjeuner, brunch, déjeuner et dîner. We went … Continue reading →

Feb. 12 – Jayuya, PR

“Travel doesn’t become adventure until you leave yourself behind.” –Anonymous  

Today we left the beach and headed inland to Jayuya (hah-YOO-yah). The town is known as the “Town of The Three Peaks” and is located high in the central mountain region of the island, north of Ponce. It’s the site of the highest mountains in Puerto Rico, surrounded by the Cerro La Punta and Los Tres Picachos mountains. We plan to do a little hiking and explore the mountains and waterfalls in the area.

We spent the morning enjoying our last view of the Atlantic Ocean. We’ve truly loved being here, but we are ready for something a little different. The road through the mountains was an adventure in itself…beautiful but narrow and very windy. It’s a good thing Stan doesn’t mind this type of road. Google tried to send us on a few shortcuts, but the friendly locals set us straight. 

Believe it or not this is one of the wider mountain roads we were on today.

This Caonillas Lake we passed it on our way to Jayuaya.
The house we’re staying in isn’t fancy, but very adequate. It’s a historic house built in the 1920’s and it sits across the street from the town plaza. We wandered around this afternoon and it’s a pretty little town on the Rio Grande del Jayuya. The people are super friendly. We were invited to join a local family to watch the Super Bowl, but we passed. We were just too tired.

Our home for the next three nights.
The house is basic but we have three bedrooms and two baths. Each bedroom has AC, but the evenings are in the low 60’s so they are only needed to keep out the sounds of the town and the roosters.
Our Lady of Monserrate Parish in the plaza across the street from our house. The bells ring each morning at 6:30…no need for an alarm clock here.
One of the pedestrian bridges that cross the river in town.
The Rio Grande del Jayuya that runs through town.

These stairs lead to the monument that pays homage to the Taíno culture of Puerto Rico. The Taínos were the indigenous inhabitants of Puerto Rico. It is located just off the plaza where our house is.

The sculpture at the top of the stairs is a bust of the Taíno leader Hayuya. The stairs lead to the tomb. The words made with mosaic tiles in the steps greet visitors and are the Taíno names of Puerto Rican towns.

The view from the top of the stairs.
We ended up going to Patria Mia for lunch and dinner since it was close to the house and so good. We were the only turistas in the whole place.
Way over there in the west is where we came from today.