Finger Lake Facts

“Make your heart like a lake with a calm, still surface and great depths of kindness.” -Lao Tzu
This photo compares the lakes size and elevation. 
The Finger Lakes Region of New York is a 9,000-square-mile area, roughly the size of New Jersey. Contrary to what some may believe, the Finger Lakes are not just five lakes like fingers on a hand. The area is made up of 11 lakes. Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga are the four largest or major lakes and Conesus, Hemlock, Canadice, Honeoye and Otisco are considered the minor lakes. Between 1905 and 1918, the Seneca River Canal was created to connect the northern tips of Seneca and Cayuga Lakes. This canal connects to the Erie Canal system, creating a navigable water route to the Great Lakes, New York City and the Atlantic Ocean. Here are a few facts about each lake, starting in the west and going east. Pronunciation of each lake is in the first parentheses. Learn more about how the lakes originated at this link.

Conesus Lake (ka NEE shuss) (“Always Beautiful)
Physical Characteristics
Length: 8 miles
Width: 1 mile
Maximum Depth: 66 ft
Seneca Native Americans named the lake “Ga-ne-a-sos” meaning “always beautiful” or “berry place.” The lake almost always freezes over in winter, making it ideal for ice fishing, skating, or snowmobiling. Beautifully mysterious turtle-like stones, or Conesus stones as they are known in many parts of the world, can also be found on the lake. These stones were formed in the ice age when glacial debris 10,000 feet thick created dams that built the Finger Lakes, and they’ve even been found as far as Siberia and Iceland.
Hemlock Lake (HEM lock) (The Working Man’s Lake)
Length: 7 miles
Width: .5 miles
Max Depth: 91 ft
The only lake without a Native American inspired name. It was named for the hemlock trees that grow around it. Hemlock is one of the only Finger Lakes whose shoreline is undeveloped, and it will remain that way as it is the main source of drinking water for Rochester. Restrictions have been put in place to keep the lake clean. In addition to restricting shoreline development, boats are limited to 17 feet and 10 horsepower and swimming is not permitted. The forests surrounding the southern end of the lake are classified as “old growth” forests. This means that they were not cut down by settlers.
Canadice Lake (CAN a dice) (Long Lake)
Length: 3 miles
Width: .3 miles
Maximum Depth: 95 ft
Elevation of 1096 ft
Canadice is the highest (1096 ft) and smallest of the Finger Lakes. Ironically, the Native American name, “ska-ne-a-dice,” translates to “long lake”. It may be the smallest of the Finger Lakes, but it’s rich in the wonder and mystery of its historical, untouched wilderness. The area is quite remote and similar to the wilderness of regions like the Adirondacks. Like Hemlock Lake, it has served Rochester with a source of public drinking water since 1876. Because of the elevation the water pressure builds naturally and no pumps are needed to transport the water.
Honeoye Lake (HON ee oy) (Lying Finger or The Working Man’s Lake) 
Length: 5 miles
Width: .8 miles
Maximum Depth: 30 ft. – the shallowest lake
Maximum Depth: 30 ft. – the shallowest lake
Its name is said to have come from the Iroquois Native American word “ha-ne-a-yeh,” or “lying lake,” because it lies north to south, though other legends say it is named so for a man whose finger was bitten by a rattlesnake and had to be chopped off. One would think that, as the shallowest of the Finger Lakes, Honeoye Lake has little to hide. Yet tucked into its peaceful, recreational cottage culture, surprises like river otters pop out to remind visitors how much the Finger Lakes have to offer. It has the shortest water retention rate. Water enters the inlet and exits into Honeoye Creek in 10 months.
Canandaigua Lake (can an DAY gwa) (The Chosen Spot)
Length: 16 miles
​Width: 1 mile
Max Depth: 276 feet
Seneca Native Americans called this lake “kanandague,” or “the chosen spot.” The tribe’s founders are said to have emerged from this place. It retains such awe today that it is home to some of the most expensive lakefront property in New York State. Skenoh Island, one of two islands in the Finger Lakes, is located near the town of Canandaigua. 

Steamboats carried passengers and goods across the lake to the City of Canandaigua until the last steamboat, the Onanda, was moved to the Hudson River in 1924. Humphrey Bogart spent his summers vacationing on Canandaigua Lake.
Keuka Lake (Q ka) (Canoe Landing or Crooked Lake)
Length: 22 miles
Width: between .5 and 2 miles
Max Depth: 187 ft
Unlike the rest of the Finger Lakes, Keuka Lake is in a “Y”shape. Keuka’s beauty stand out in so many ways that it also nicknamed “Lady of the Lakes.” The name “Keuka” comes from the Native American phrase meaning “Canoe Landing.” It’s the third largest Finger Lake in area, length, and width. In addition to its distinct shape, this lake is also the only one that flows both north and south. At the south end of the lake, in 1829, the winemaking industry of the Finger Lakes was born. The Finger Lakes Region has blossomed into one of the most popular winemaking areas in the eastern United States. Keuka is considered to have the best fishing in the region, and is the only Finger Lake that flows into another one (Seneca Lake).
Seneca Lake (SEN a ca) (A Place of Stone)
Length: 35 miles
Width: 3 miles
Max Depth: 630′ – the deepest lake
The boss of the Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake occupies center stage and takes its name directly from the Seneca Native Americans, likely because they revered it so much – for its size, mystery, and grandeur. Native American word “assiniki,” which means “stony place,” possibly referring to the steep, stony southern shoreline or to the many rocky streams, gorges, and waterfalls that feed into the lake. It’s so deep that the Native Americans are said to have believed it was bottomless. It holds over half the water of the entire Finger Lakes Region. Because of its size, it rarely freezes over completely; the last time was in 1912. The lake’s size moderates the surrounding temperature, making it ideal for the many vineyards sprouting up around it. The lake floor extends 200 feet below sea level and has been used as testing sites for submarines.
Cayuga Lake (k’YOO ga) (Boat Landing)
Length: 40 miles – the longest lake 
Width: 3.5 miles at the widest point, 1.7 miles average
Maximum Depth: 435 ft
Cayuga Lake was named for the Cayuga tribe. The Native Americans alternatively called it “boat landing” or “tiohero,” which means “clear water.” From 1800 to 1857, a mile-long bridge stretched across the lake as a more efficient transportation route for goods and people. The Cayuga Long Bridge was at one point in time the longest bridge in the western hemisphere and it was three-wagon-widths wide.

Shale palisades, a kind of steep cliff, can be found along the near Bolton Point on the southeastern end of the lake. These are rare outside the British Isles. The lake also lays on top of the deepest rock-salt mine in North America. Three operational lighthouses decorate the lake in various spots and Frontenac Island is one of only two small islands in the Finger Lakes.
Owasco Lake (o WASS co) (The Crossing Place or Floating Bridge)
Length: 11 miles
Width: 1 mile
Maximum Depth: 177 ft
Its name comes from the Native American word “osco,” which means “the crossing place,” or “wasco,” which means “floating bridge”. The town of Moravia lies at the southern end of the lake. It’s the birthplace of President Millard Fillmore and was the childhood home of John D. Rockefeller. The town of Auburn is at the north end of the lake and was home to Harriet Tubman and William Seward, Secretary of State to President Lincoln and Johnson. Harriet Tubman’s house is now a museum and national historical park, open to the public.

In the early half of the 19th century, Owasco Lake was known for its resorts and casinos, which catered to the upper class and social elite. The Syracuse Railway ran down the west side of the lake, and passenger steamboats were used to transport vacationers from one high-profile destination to another. Today, the profile of the lake has changed with lovely private homes and quaint cottages dotting much of the shoreline.
Skaneateles Lake (skinny AT less) (The Long Waters)
Length: 16 miles
Width: 1 mile
Max depth: 300 ft
It’s one of the highest Finger Lakes, sitting 863 ft. above sea level. Native American legends say that the sky spirits would admire themselves in the reflective clarity of Skaneateles Lake. When the lake spirit fell in love with them, it absorbed the fine, deep blue color of their robes. It has some of the cleanest and clearest water out of all the lakes, because it’s not burdened by industrial and agricultural waste. The lake has been used as a water supply for both the surrounding town of Skaneateles and many Syracuse residents since the 1890s. It’s one of only six unfiltered water sources in the country. Steamboats were active during the 1800s and smaller boats took over in the 20th century to deliver mail to boxes on lake-bound cottage docks. Several stops on the Underground Railroad were located around the lake. 
Otisco Lake (o TISS co) (Waters Dried Away)
Length: 6 miles
Width: 1 mile
Max Depth: 68 ft
Its name comes from the Native American word “Otisco” which means “waters dried away”. It used to be marshland, but has since grown out of that name thanks to several efforts to set up dams. A dam was constructed in 1869 to both raise the water level of the lake and provide a storage place for water used in the Erie Canal. The lake was dammed again in 1908 to raise the water level so it could be used as a water supply for Syracuse. Together, the dams raised the water to a total of 13 feet.

A causeway that runs across the lake at the southern end used to be a wagon road. It divides the lake into two distinct basins. The southern section is smaller, shallower and quite murky, but the remaining lake is relatively clear. Because of its shallow depth and warm temperatures this lake is ideal for swimming and boating.

Finger Lake Facts

“Make your heart like a lake with a calm, still surface and great depths of kindness.” -Lao Tzu
This photo compares the lakes size and elevation. 
The Finger Lakes Region of New York is a 9,000-square-mile area, roughly the size of New Jersey. Contrary to what some may believe, the Finger Lakes are not just five lakes like fingers on a hand. The area is made up of 11 lakes. Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga are the four largest or major lakes and Conesus, Hemlock, Canadice, Honeoye and Otisco are considered the minor lakes. Between 1905 and 1918, the Seneca River Canal was created to connect the northern tips of Seneca and Cayuga Lakes. This canal connects to the Erie Canal system, creating a navigable water route to the Great Lakes, New York City and the Atlantic Ocean. Here are a few facts about each lake, starting in the west and going east. Pronunciation of each lake is in the first parentheses. Learn more about how the lakes originated at this link.

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Reyjkavik

Along with Greenland, Iceland also has been high on our list of places to visit for its spectacular natural beauty. We expected to spend several weeks touring the country when we eventually brought Dirona back to the US via the “Viking Route”, from the Faroe Islands to Newfoundland via Iceland and Greenland. In the end,…

Boat Data

I’ve always been comfortable working with data and computers. It turns out that boating generates gobs of data that provide me ample opportunities to do both.

When, in August 2021, we replaced our lead-acid house bank batteries with lithium ferro phosphate (LFP) batteries, their cost, the desire to maximize their longevity and the associated monitoring equipment we installed gave me the impetus to try “up my game” on the analysis of data.

To help me along, I installed a Raspberry Pi (RasPi) microcomputer that connects (and is powered by) the NMEA 2000 (N2k) data bus (installed when the boat was built) running through the boat. The bus cable connects lots of the devices (e.g., inverter/chargers) and sensors (e.g.., voltage and current sensors) onboard.  To collect all the data on the RasPi, I installed the SignalK server software. Fortunately, I was able to use this very helpful blog post from another boater (far more skilled than I am) to work my way through the process. .

WilhelmSK ScreenThe first goal was simply  to display all of the data being harvested. I ended up using the WilhelmSK app on a used second generation iPad Mini. After a few false starts, I created four screens, one for each operational state of the boat (i.e., “At the Dock”, “Cruising”, “At Anchor” and “Generator Running”).  In each screen, I try to display the most relevant boat data for that state that isn’t already being shown elsewhere.

After running the SignalK system for the 2022 cruising season and finding it to be very reliable, I added data logging to it by installing the InfluxDB timeseries database. To keep that data logging manageable, I identified 22 data fields (e.g., wind speed, battery voltage, battery state of charge) to be logged.  The raw data is retained for 24 hours but every 5-minutes is downsampled to summary data (i.e., means and max’s).. Again this is to keep the data manageable. The 24-hour raw data from just 22 data elements is about 800,000 observations. The 24-hour downsampled data is about 6,000 observations.

Grafana Screen ShotI load the downsampled data to my laptop computer into a database (PostgreSQL). From the database I can further analyze it with Excel. I even installed the Grafana software which allows the creation of “dashboards” that can graphically show large quantities of data on one screen.  In my usage, It isn’t a real time data but it does give insight in the relationship between various measurements and any trendlines.

The exampleCharge Cycle in the graph to the right is from our June 26 departure at anchor in Bartlett Cove to go further up Glacier Bay.  It is the raw data (i.e., not down sampled to 5-minute increments) so the 2-hour period shown in the chart has several thousand data points for each parameter. After the engine starts, the alternator output is limited to what it can produce at idle, about 90-100 amps. After the anchor is pulled and we increase the engine speed to normal cruising (~1500 rpm) the alternator output goes to a little above 150 amps (about 4KW of power). The alternator temperature goes up from an initial 70°F to a little over 170°F. Our Balmar 624 regulator is now operating in “bulk” mode where it is trying to output as many amps as the alternator or battery can handle. Because our house bank batteries are LFP chemistry, the battery voltage hardly budges (most lead-acid batteries have a fairly linear voltage response in bulk mode) until we reach a 93% State of Charge (SoC) at which point the battery voltage begins rising more quickly..

When the voltage reaches the absorption voltage, the regulator switches to “absorption” mode and holds the voltage relatively constant adjusting the alternator output amperage to accomplish it. As soon the alternator output begins to decline, the alternator temperature begins falling. Our Victron battery monitor (BMV-712), also detects the falling output and the 99% SoC and decides to says “close enough” by jumping the SoC to 100%..

To protect the battery from being over charged, the alternator is programmed conservatively and only holds the absorption voltage for about 12 minutes before transitioning to “float” mode. It gradually drops its target voltage over a 6-minute period from 28.4V to 27.2V.  Because the battery has been “stuffed” full of electrons at 28.4V as soon as the alternator lowers its target, the batteries actually deplete slightly. Our normal cruising load (e.g., electronics, fans, furnace) is about 30 amps, so as the voltage drops, part of that is provided by the alternator (e.g., 24A) while the remainder is provided by the battery (e.g., 6A).  Once the final float voltage of 27.2V is reached, the batteries settle down and the alternator takes on the full boat electrical load.  The alternator temperature also reaches its normal cruising temperature of about 110°F, down 60°F from its highpoint only 20 minutes earlier.

Fortunately, I don’t have to analyze the data to this level every time we operate the boat. While at the helm, I’ve stared at the display screen I described at the beginning of this post for two years now. At least at the gross level, I think I can see what is normal operation and any variation from the expected (famous last words). 

Boat Data

I’ve always been comfortable working with data and computers. It turns out that boating generates gobs of data that provide me ample opportunities to do both.

When, in August 2021, we replaced our lead-acid house bank batteries with lithium ferro phosphate (LFP) batteries, their cost, the desire to maximize their longevity and the associated monitoring equipment we installed gave me the impetus to try “up my game” on the analysis of data.

To help me along, I installed a Raspberry Pi (RasPi) microcomputer that connects (and is powered by) the NMEA 2000 (N2k) data bus (installed when the boat was built) running through the boat. The bus cable connects lots of the devices (e.g., inverter/chargers) and sensors (e.g.., voltage and current sensors) onboard.  To collect all the data on the RasPi, I installed the SignalK server software. Fortunately, I was able to use this very helpful blog post from another boater (far more skilled than I am) to work my way through the process. .

WilhelmSK ScreenThe first goal was simply  to display all of the data being harvested. I ended up using the WilhelmSK app on a used second generation iPad Mini. After a few false starts, I created four screens, one for each operational state of the boat (i.e., “At the Dock”, “Cruising”, “At Anchor” and “Generator Running”).  In each screen, I try to display the most relevant boat data for that state that isn’t already being shown elsewhere.

After running the SignalK system for the 2022 cruising season and finding it to be very reliable, I added data logging to it by installing the InfluxDB timeseries database. To keep that data logging manageable, I identified 22 data fields (e.g., wind speed, battery voltage, battery state of charge) to be logged.  The raw data is retained for 24 hours but every 5-minutes is downsampled to summary data (i.e., means and max’s).. Again this is to keep the data manageable. The 24-hour raw data from just 22 data elements is about 800,000 observations. The 24-hour downsampled data is about 6,000 observations.

Grafana Screen ShotI load the downsampled data to my laptop computer into a database (PostgreSQL). From the database I can further analyze it with Excel. I even installed the Grafana software which allows the creation of “dashboards” that can graphically show large quantities of data on one screen.  In my usage, It isn’t a real time data but it does give insight in the relationship between various measurements and any trendlines.

The exampleCharge Cycle in the graph to the right is from our June 26 departure at anchor in Bartlett Cove to go further up Glacier Bay.  It is the raw data (i.e., not down sampled to 5-minute increments) so the 2-hour period shown in the chart has several thousand data points for each parameter. After the engine starts, the alternator output is limited to what it can produce at idle, about 90-100 amps. After the anchor is pulled and we increase the engine speed to normal cruising (~1500 rpm) the alternator output goes to a little above 150 amps (about 4KW of power). The alternator temperature goes up from an initial 70°F to a little over 170°F. Our Balmar 624 regulator is now operating in “bulk” mode where it is trying to output as many amps as the alternator or battery can handle. Because our house bank batteries are LFP chemistry, the battery voltage hardly budges (most lead-acid batteries have a fairly linear voltage response in bulk mode) until we reach a 93% State of Charge (SoC) at which point the battery voltage begins rising more quickly..

When the voltage reaches the absorption voltage, the regulator switches to “absorption” mode and holds the voltage relatively constant adjusting the alternator output amperage to accomplish it. As soon the alternator output begins to decline, the alternator temperature begins falling. Our Victron battery monitor (BMV-712), also detects the falling output and the 99% SoC and decides to says “close enough” by jumping the SoC to 100%..

To protect the battery from being over charged, the alternator is programmed conservatively and only holds the absorption voltage for about 12 minutes before transitioning to “float” mode. It gradually drops its target voltage over a 6-minute period from 28.4V to 27.2V.  Because the battery has been “stuffed” full of electrons at 28.4V as soon as the alternator lowers its target, the batteries actually deplete slightly. Our normal cruising load (e.g., electronics, fans, furnace) is about 30 amps, so as the voltage drops, part of that is provided by the alternator (e.g., 24A) while the remainder is provided by the battery (e.g., 6A).  Once the final float voltage of 27.2V is reached, the batteries settle down and the alternator takes on the full boat electrical load.  The alternator temperature also reaches its normal cruising temperature of about 110°F, down 60°F from its highpoint only 20 minutes earlier.

Fortunately, I don’t have to analyze the data to this level every time we operate the boat. While at the helm, I’ve stared at the display screen I described at the beginning of this post for two years now. At least at the gross level, I think I can see what is normal operation and any variation from the expected (famous last words). 

On Board Le Commandant Charcot

Ponant Cruise Lines strives to offer a premium service with formal dinners and an on-board dress-code. That’s just not our style, but the once-in-a-lifetime experience of being able to stand at the North Pole, convinced us we could put up with the rest, and we were excited to book a trip on Le Commandant Charcot….

Finger Lakes Wineries (Part XII)

“Age is just a number. It’s totally irrelevant unless, of course, you happen to be a bottle of wine.” -Joan Collins

We have our favorite wineries we love to visit, but we do make an effort to try a few new ones each year. Here are the ones we made it to in 2023. Some were better than others and a few we might even visit again.

Cayuga Ridge Estate – As one of the oldest wineries in the Finger Lakes Cayuga Ridge invites you to tour and taste their bounty. Through the practice of sustainable vineyard cultivation they attain consistent grape quality and optimal fruit production. The wines of Cayuga Ridge Estate are straightforward and honest in their presentation.

Our picnic didn’t come with a lake view, but the wine and the food was very good. We had their 2020 Dry Riesling. It was a summer Riesling, light and zippy, comparable to a sauvignon blanc.

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard – the vineyard is a pioneer of viticulture and winemaking in the Finger Lakes. It was founded in 1979 by German-born winemaker Hermann J. Wiemer, the estate has gained national and international attention for the quality of its wines and the soundness of its growing practices. Located on the western slope of Seneca Lake and housed in a 19th century scissor-truss barn.

We celebrated the Captain’s birthday at the vineyard and enjoyed their Riesling Dry. It’s their signature wine. Sourced from each of their three distinct vineyard sites It has layers of citrus, stone, and tropical fruit with a clean mineral finish.

Miles Wine Cellars – the winery is located in a Greek revival mansion that overlooks Seneca Lake, the home was originally built in 1802, and has a haunting history. Strange happenings such as slamming doors, footsteps, and unexplained sounds have manifested on the property for years. The first grapes were planted in the spring of 1979. When the grapes began producing, the grapes were sold to neighboring wineries. Their first vintage was in 1997 and it was bottled in 1998.

This was actually our second visit to this Miles Wine Cellars. Our first visit was back in 2012. This time we took our runabout up the lake from our rental and enjoyed a beautiful picnic on their lawn. It was extra special because we were joined by our family. We enjoyed a bottle of their Dry Riesling that was loaded with lemon and lime zest with finishes of fresh pear and apple. Our second bottle Ghost a light, semi-dry Chardonnay blend that was light, crisp and refreshing.

Our view of the lake from the lawn of Miles Wine Cellars.

Hillick & Hobbs – After years of searching around the Finger Lakes to fulfill the dream of creating site-specific estate riesling, Paul Hobbs concentrated his efforts on Seneca Lake and found a property with similar attributes to those found in the famed Mosel region in Germany. This winery is situated on the southeastern banks of the lake. They only produce a dry riesling each year and we could choose between three years. 

We enjoyed a bottle of their 2020 Dry Riesling. That season was warm and dry; however, cool lake breezes contribute to the estate’s ability to slowly ripen the fruit. The result was a Riesling with early spring bloom aromas and lush stone fruit flavors.

Silver Springs Winery – Following a 700-year history of traditional winemaking, the Zuccarino family opened its winery’s doors in June 2004. Silver Springs Winery is a deeply rooted winery, maintaining a rich history for full-bodied, handcrafted reds and refreshingly fruity, rich aromatic white wines. They are located on the eastern shore of Seneca Lake. It was our least favorite winery of the year. They seemed overpriced and we were not impressed with the wine we tried.

We tried their Dry Riesling “Pink Stripe. It’s a complex wine with a nose of apricot, honeydew, honeysuckle, hints of white peach, and finishes with a citrus tangerine and grapefruit crisp snappy twang. Definitely nice but not our favorite.

You can read about other wineries we’ve visited in the Finger Lake area at the following links.

Finger Lakes Wineries (Part XII)

“Age is just a number. It’s totally irrelevant unless, of course, you happen to be a bottle of wine.” -Joan Collins

We have our favorite wineries we love to visit, but we do make an effort to try a few new ones each year. Here are the ones we made it to in 2023. Some were better than others and a few we might even visit again.

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

October Updates

“Autumn teaches us the beauty of letting go. Growth requires release…it’s what the trees do.” -Ka’ala
We’ve had a busy October and I’ve done a lot of posts, but as usual there are memories I wanted to document. This blog has become less about cruising and boats and more of a journal of our lives. A way to remember where and what we’ve done each year.

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Greenland

Greenland has long been high on our list of places to visit. We love high latitudes and wild, untamed places. Our initial plan for eventually returning to North America from Europe on Dirona was to travel the “Viking Route” from the Faroe Islands to Newfoundland via Iceland and Greenland. We didn’t have a firm timeframe…