Guam to Chile – Blog Post 12

By on October 5, 2024 in Spirit

 October 4, 2024 – Pitcairn Island

Arriving off Bounty Bay, Pitcairn Island, shortly before dawn, we were amazed by how steep and rocky the 3 miles by 1 mile island was. The terrain ranged from steep cliffs to lush jungles, with almost no flat areas. Adamstown, the principal housing area, is perched on a sloping area about 350 feet in altitude. The maximum elevation is over 1000 feet. The weather conditions at Pitcairn Island, off Bounty Bay, the only landing spot, were marginal, but doable, so some local officials, including the mayor came on board and gave us a briefing on activities ashore, and the lifestyle of the current 43 residents. The mayor is 7th generation Pitcairn Island, but spent time off island in Alaska. The only children left on the island are in boarding schools in New Zealand, so the local school is now closed. Life on Pitcairn is hard, income comes from selling handicrafts and honey to the occasional expedition vessel and wages from the New Zealand government. Most residents hold two or more jobs, but the rate of pay has not kept up with inflation, so expedition ships are welcome. Each resident is also responsible for their gardens and house maintenance and other community tasks. Pitcairn welcomes new residents, but the hard lifestyle is not attractive to many. The island is now 100 percent solar, with a backup generator and has installed Starlink, so they are well connected to the rest of the world.

Pitcairn Island from Google Earth



About 0930, we were cleared to begin landing. The swells were running up to 2 meters. The landing zone was awash in 6 inches of water and as the swell came down the side of the vessel, often the zodiac was well above the edge of the landing zone, which then had water knee deep. As the zodiac went down in the swell, the water cascaded out of the landing zone back into the zodiac. Needless to say, boarding the zodiac was an exciting evolution, as was the landing in Bounty Bay. One zodiac at a time entered the bay, nosed into the seawall and disgorged the passengers. Nearby is the boathouse containing the motorized longboats used to transfer supplies from the ship which provisions the island from New Zealand.

Longboats used for resupply

Looking down the Hill of Difficulty Road



The walk up the “hill of difficulty” road was steep and hot. The paved road is named appropriately. Once at the top the road leveled out, passes by the general store, open three hours per week, the post office and finally enters the “Town Square.” The anchor from HMAV Bounty has been recovered and is on display in front of the old community center. Fletcher Christian’s cave is clearly visible from the community center.


General Store and Post Office

Bounty Anchor at Town Square

Fletcher Christian Cave

On the way to St. Pauls Pool

Seabourn Pursuit from trail to St. Pauls Pool

Up the Hill of Difficulty Road


Patrick joined a group hiking the 7 KM to St. Pauls Pool but decided to stop at the crest of the trail rather than lose all the 700-foot elevation descending to sea level and then have the hike back up in the hot, sunny conditions. After an easy walk back down the hill to the town square and then back down the “hill of difficulty” road, it was a short wait before taking a zodiac back to the ship, arriving at little after 1400 pm. The last zodiac boarded about 1600 pm, and by 1630 pm Seabourn Pursuit was underway for Ducie Island.

 


Guam to Chile – Blog Post 11

By on October 5, 2024 in Spirit

September 28, 2024 – Papeete

This morning we departed on an “included” tour of the so-called undiscovered Tahiti.  The tour included stops at botanical gardens, fern caves, a new Tahitian cultural museum, and a private home’s botanical gardens followed by refreshing juice drinks in the owner’s gazebo.  The tour returned to the ship about 1400 and we joined in the “sail-away” party as Seabourn Pursuit’s lines were cast off and we exited the harbor with the sun low in the sky.

Captain Cook’s Anchor

Sculpture at the Tahitian Museum

Tike at the Marae Entrance

Marae – sacred ground

Tiki’s scattered all over

Another Tiki

Part of central market

Parrot fish for sale in central market

Ginger at botanical garden

View from Gazebo at private home

Fern Grotto

Tahitian Cultural Museum

Ancient dugout canoe

Departing Papeete



The ship headed east for Anaa, a beautiful atoll in the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia.

September 29, 2024 – Anaa

Seabourn Pursuit took up station off the small harbor at Anaa and most guests headed ashore in the Zodiacs for a dry landing followed by a short walk along the paved road to the inner side of the lagoon, where the village is located. There are about 450 residents on the atoll. Patrick also went ashore, but via a kayak excursion, which also ended up the village.


Anaa Atoll

Anaa landing zone


The village had a large open-air pavilion by the beach where the performances by the village residents were performed. Following the dances, there were large varieties of local foods set out for tasting, as well as delicious drinking coconuts. There was also a large pavilion with a variety of local handicrafts, including black pearls.

Dancers at Anaa

Proa in Anaa Lagoon

Local Church on Anaa

Inside the local church – light fixtures are shell

Local Dancers on Anaa



Patrick’s kayaking group headed back, but by now the tide had gone out enough that they had to walk and drag the kayaks several places to get back to the landing sites. There are several small entrances into the lagoon, but the currents are too high for safe kayaking.  Even the route we took, in very shallow water with occasional groundings, had a fair amount of current until well past the pass.

September 30, 2024 – Tahanea

Tahanea is a large uninhabited atoll and nature preserve. The atoll measures 30 miles long with a maximum width of 15 miles and a total area of 210 square miles. There are three navigable passes for smaller vessels, and there was one sailboat anchored just south of the pass where Seabourn Pursuit took up position.


The activities offered here were snorkeling, zodiac tours and kayaking. Patrick did the kayaking tour in the crystal clear waters where reef sharks were sighted and Julie took a Zodiac tour. No one from the ship was allowed to land, but that apparently did not apply the the people and dog on the sailboat, who were wandering around. There was a crude shelter with a mooring buoy in front, but other than the shelter, only birds occupied the atoll.

Kayaking in Tahanea Lagoon



Following our stop, Seabourn Pursuit reversed course and headed back north to Fakarava atoll to drop the French Polynesia officials and clear the ship out of French Polynesia before heading back southeast towards Pitcairn Islands, a British Overseas Territory. One of those Islands, Pitcairn, is famous for in part in the “Mutiny on the Bounty.”

October 1-3, at Sea

The voyage to Pitcairn Islands is about 860 NM from Fakarava Atoll, which will take three days. The seas were moderate, but with a beam swell which made the ride somewhat uncomfortable. The sea days were filled with lectures and other activities, as we prepared for the Pitcairn Island visit. We will also visit Ducie Island, an atoll part of the Pitcairn Islands group. There are four islands forming the group, and the group has been designated a Marine Protected Area, now the fourth largest in the world. The designation will severely limit commercial exploitation and preserve the unique ecology of the islands.


Guam to Chile – Blog Post 11

By on October 5, 2024 in Spirit

September 28, 2024 – Papeete

This morning we departed on an “included” tour of the so-called undiscovered Tahiti.  The tour included stops at botanical gardens, fern caves, a new Tahitian cultural museum, and a private home’s botanical gardens followed by refreshing juice drinks in the owner’s gazebo.  The tour returned to the ship about 1400 and we joined in the “sail-away” party as Seabourn Pursuit’s lines were cast off and we exited the harbor with the sun low in the sky.

Captain Cook’s Anchor

Sculpture at the Tahitian Museum

Tike at the Marae Entrance

Marae – sacred ground

Tiki’s scattered all over

Another Tiki

Part of central market

Parrot fish for sale in central market

Ginger at botanical garden

View from Gazebo at private home

Fern Grotto

Tahitian Cultural Museum

Ancient dugout canoe

Departing Papeete



The ship headed east for Anaa, a beautiful atoll in the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia.

September 29, 2024 – Anaa

Seabourn Pursuit took up station off the small harbor at Anaa and most guests headed ashore in the Zodiacs for a dry landing followed by a short walk along the paved road to the inner side of the lagoon, where the village is located. There are about 450 residents on the atoll. Patrick also went ashore, but via a kayak excursion, which also ended up the village.


Anaa Atoll

Anaa landing zone


The village had a large open-air pavilion by the beach where the performances by the village residents were performed. Following the dances, there were large varieties of local foods set out for tasting, as well as delicious drinking coconuts. There was also a large pavilion with a variety of local handicrafts, including black pearls.

Dancers at Anaa

Proa in Anaa Lagoon

Local Church on Anaa

Inside the local church – light fixtures are shell

Local Dancers on Anaa



Patrick’s kayaking group headed back, but by now the tide had gone out enough that they had to walk and drag the kayaks several places to get back to the landing sites. There are several small entrances into the lagoon, but the currents are too high for safe kayaking.  Even the route we took, in very shallow water with occasional groundings, had a fair amount of current until well past the pass.

September 30, 2024 – Tahanea

Tahanea is a large uninhabited atoll and nature preserve. The atoll measures 30 miles long with a maximum width of 15 miles and a total area of 210 square miles. There are three navigable passes for smaller vessels, and there was one sailboat anchored just south of the pass where Seabourn Pursuit took up position.


The activities offered here were snorkeling, zodiac tours and kayaking. Patrick did the kayaking tour in the crystal clear waters where reef sharks were sighted and Julie took a Zodiac tour. No one from the ship was allowed to land, but that apparently did not apply the the people and dog on the sailboat, who were wandering around. There was a crude shelter with a mooring buoy in front, but other than the shelter, only birds occupied the atoll.

Kayaking in Tahanea Lagoon



Following our stop, Seabourn Pursuit reversed course and headed back north to Fakarava atoll to drop the French Polynesia officials and clear the ship out of French Polynesia before heading back southeast towards Pitcairn Islands, a British Overseas Territory. One of those Islands, Pitcairn, is famous for in part in the “Mutiny on the Bounty.”

October 1-3, at Sea

The voyage to Pitcairn Islands is about 860 NM from Fakarava Atoll, which will take three days. The seas were moderate, but with a beam swell which made the ride somewhat uncomfortable. The sea days were filled with lectures and other activities, as we prepared for the Pitcairn Island visit. We will also visit Ducie Island, an atoll part of the Pitcairn Islands group. There are four islands forming the group, and the group has been designated a Marine Protected Area, now the fourth largest in the world. The designation will severely limit commercial exploitation and preserve the unique ecology of the islands.


Tunnels in Madeira

By on September 30, 2024 in The Pearl
“Sometimes it’s the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination.” — Drake
We were very impressed with the roads in Madeira. They’re well maintained, well marked and easy to navigate. We noticed two main differences between Madeira and the USA…lots of roundabouts and lots of tunnels. Without the tunnels travel would be almost impossible.

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Madeiran Cuisine

By on September 30, 2024 in The Pearl
“Food is the passport to a thousand journeys, each bite an adventure.” –Unknown

Madeira’s cuisine is influenced by many different flavors and ingredients due to its location in the Atlantic Ocean between Portugal and Morocco. Seafood is a staple of the traditional Madeiran diet, and the island is known for its oily fish like tuna and skipjack tuna, as well as leaner fish like black scabbard. Other popular seafood dishes include limpets, octopus and squid. Here are some other traditional Madeiran dishes:

Bolo do Caco – A traditional local flatbread made with flour and sweet potatoes and cooked on the stovetop or fire. It’s served warm with garlic and parsley butter. We loved, loved, loved this bread. I will be making some at home.

Bolo de Mel de Cana (sugar cane honey cake) – A dense sponge cake made with nuts and spices and considered the island’s oldest desert. Tastes a bit like a spicy fruit cake.

Pão de Deus (“Bread for God”) – A traditional Portuguese bread made with a blend of soft bread topped with a sweet coconut layer. This one we wanted to try, but never seemed to find it.

Espetada (skewered) – Grilled beef traditionally cooked on skewers made of the local laurel wood. The meat is cut in cubes and seasoned with garlic, rock salt, and bay leaf before cooking it over hot coals. Most of these were large enough to feed several people. The servings of these are very large.

Prego – A sandwich made with bolo do caco bread spread with garlic butter and a thin beef steak.  Sometimes it’s served with lettuce, tomato, cheese and ham. It’s truly delicious. I’d have to say they’re almost better than a hamburger.

Lapas or Limpets (Barnacles) – Are mollusks, similar to clams, which have a conical shaped shell, living strongly attached to rocks along the shoreline. Served in Madeira grilled with butter, garlic and a squeeze of lemon. Wanted to try these but just didn’t.  

Caldeirada (stew) – A unique fish and seafood stew cooked in a clay pot. We saw this on the menus, but didn’t have a chance to try it.

Espada (black scabbard fish) – A Madeira traditional food that looks pretty scary and unappetizing until it’s cooked. It has a  delicate in flavor and a Madeiran food not to miss. Stan had this fish at least four times and loved it.

The traditional way to serve it is with fried bananas.
Octopus – Although not a traditional Madeira dish, it’s incredibly popular on the island. You can have it cooked in lots of different ways, as a starter, as a side or with rice. It was our first time to try octopus and it was very good.
Carne de Vinha D’alhos (Garlic Vineyard Meat) – A Madeira dish that consists of small pieces of pork meat marinated in garlic and wine for at least a day, and then cooked in the marinade. We didn’t have a chance to try this one either.

Nata – Devine little treats with a crusty flaky pastry filled to the brim with sweet egg custard and caramelized on top. Very popular in Portugal. We had these little treats in many places. 

Madeira Wine – originated in the 18th century, when the island started exporting wine to the rest of the world. They found that the wine that wasn’t sold and was returned home was much more aromatic and flavorful than when it first left the island. We have tried this wine here and at home and we aren’t big fans.

Poncha – A traditional alcoholic drink made with aguardente de cana (sugar cane rum), sugar and either orange juice or lemon juice. Some varieties include other fruit juices. These were very good…somewhere better than others.

Brisa Maracujá – A naturally carbonated soft drink made from purple passion fruit juice and treated water. It was created in 1970 and was the first soft drink in the world to be made from pure passion fruit juice. I did try the original and I wasn’t a fan.

Madeiran Cuisine

By on September 30, 2024 in The Pearl
“Food is the passport to a thousand journeys, each bite an adventure.” –Unknown

Madeira’s cuisine is influenced by many different flavors and ingredients due to its location in the Atlantic Ocean between Portugal and Morocco. Seafood is a staple of the traditional Madeiran diet, and the island is known for its oily fish like tuna and skipjack tuna, as well as leaner fish like black scabbard. Other popular seafood dishes include limpets, octopus and squid. Here are some other traditional Madeiran dishes:

Bolo do Caco – A traditional local flatbread made with flour and sweet potatoes and cooked on the stovetop or fire. It’s served warm with garlic and parsley butter. We loved, loved, loved this bread. I will be making some at home.

Bolo de Mel de Cana (sugar cane honey cake) – A dense sponge cake made with nuts and spices and considered the island’s oldest desert. Tastes a bit like a spicy fruit cake.

Pão de Deus (“Bread for God”) – A traditional Portuguese bread made with a blend of soft bread topped with a sweet coconut layer. This one we wanted to try, but never seemed to find it.

Espetada (skewered) – Grilled beef traditionally cooked on skewers made of the local laurel wood. The meat is cut in cubes and seasoned with garlic, rock salt, and bay leaf before cooking it over hot coals. Most of these were large enough to feed several people. The servings of these are very large.

Prego – A sandwich made with bolo do caco bread spread with garlic butter and a thin beef steak.  Sometimes it’s served with lettuce, tomato, cheese and ham. It’s truly delicious. I’d have to say they’re almost better than a hamburger.

Lapas or Limpets (Barnacles) – Are mollusks, similar to clams, which have a conical shaped shell, living strongly attached to rocks along the shoreline. Served in Madeira grilled with butter, garlic and a squeeze of lemon. Wanted to try these but just didn’t.  

Caldeirada (stew) – A unique fish and seafood stew cooked in a clay pot. We saw this on the menus, but didn’t have a chance to try it.

Espada (black scabbard fish) – A Madeira traditional food that looks pretty scary and unappetizing until it’s cooked. It has a  delicate in flavor and a Madeiran food not to miss. Stan had this fish at least four times and loved it.

The traditional way to serve it is with fried bananas.
Octopus – Although not a traditional Madeira dish, it’s incredibly popular on the island. You can have it cooked in lots of different ways, as a starter, as a side or with rice. It was our first time to try octopus and it was very good.
Carne de Vinha D’alhos (Garlic Vineyard Meat) – A Madeira dish that consists of small pieces of pork meat marinated in garlic and wine for at least a day, and then cooked in the marinade. We didn’t have a chance to try this one either.

Nata – Devine little treats with a crusty flaky pastry filled to the brim with sweet egg custard and caramelized on top. Very popular in Portugal. We had these little treats in many places. 

Madeira Wine – originated in the 18th century, when the island started exporting wine to the rest of the world. They found that the wine that wasn’t sold and was returned home was much more aromatic and flavorful than when it first left the island. We have tried this wine here and at home and we aren’t big fans.

Poncha – A traditional alcoholic drink made with aguardente de cana (sugar cane rum), sugar and either orange juice or lemon juice. Some varieties include other fruit juices. These were very good…somewhere better than others.

Brisa Maracujá – A naturally carbonated soft drink made from purple passion fruit juice and treated water. It was created in 1970 and was the first soft drink in the world to be made from pure passion fruit juice. I did try the original and I wasn’t a fan.

On Board the AmaMagna

By on September 29, 2024 in M/V Dirona

The AmaMagna is the largest by far of the European river cruise boats, with a beam of 71 ft (21 m) and a length of 443 ft (135 m). Most other ships are limited to the European river lock maximum dimensions of 38 ft (11.5 m) wide and 410 feet (124 m). At twice the…

Sept. 22 – Flying Home

By on September 29, 2024 in The Pearl
“When we get home, home is still the same, but something in our minds has changed and that changes everything.” -Anonymous
Our trip home went much smoother than our trip over. We got up at 4 AM and left for the airport at 4:30. Luckily the airport is only a mile from our hotel. The hotel arranged for a taxi to pick us up and fixed us a box breakfast for us to take with us. This truly was a wonderful place to stay our last night in Madeira.

Check in at the airport was smooth, although they seemed to have a lot of security checkpoints. Customs coming in was a breeze. We upgraded again to business class which gave us plenty of room to rest on our seven hour return flight. We arrived in New York at 9 AM and had close to four hours until our flight to Ithaca. Getting through custom and taking the train to the next terminal was a breeze, but going through security took a while. JFK is huge! It felt wonderful to be back on the boat…so glad we flew to NYC.
I was tired and enjoyed my breakfast…I forgot to take a picture. We had a cheese omelet with mushrooms and tomato, fresh fruit and croissants.

We were back in plenty of time to have one last visit with Bob and Loretta before the boating season ends. 

Sept. 22 – Flying Home

By on September 29, 2024 in The Pearl
“When we get home, home is still the same, but something in our minds has changed and that changes everything.” -Anonymous
Our trip home went much smoother than our trip over. We got up at 4 AM and left for the airport at 4:30. Luckily the airport is only a mile from our hotel. The hotel arranged for a taxi to pick us up and fixed us a box breakfast for us to take with us. This truly was a wonderful place to stay our last night in Madeira.

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Guam to Chile Blog Post 10, first half finished

By on September 29, 2024 in Spirit

 The video produced by Seabourn of the first half of our voyage is found at:
https://player.vimeo.com/progressive_redirect/playback/1013388327/rendition/1080p/file.mp4?loc=external&signature=dff4d1faa965586a6355356c7ab0d97e40c2020f3b84913240ff…