Bring out the yam!
“This is Your Yam.”
Port Vila, Vanuatu
October 14, 2013
The Men… celebrating their ranks and hierarchy with the Rome Dance
“This is your Yam – Ambryn.” Words spoken to Capt. Cook by the Ambryn chief during his visi…
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Ambryn
Ambryn
“This is Your Yam.”Port Vila, VanuatuOctober 14, 2013″This is your Yam – Ambryn.” Words spoken to Capt. Cook by the Ambryn chief during his visit. Of course, Ambryn is famous for its twin active volcanoes, and it truly is an island deeply c…
MASKELYNES Canoe Festival
MASKELYNES Canoe Festival
July 2017 – Uliveo, Vanuatu
At the southeast point of Malakula Island is a small archipelago: The Maskalynes. It’s a small group of tiny islands, some lined with mangroves, others fringed with reefs and white sand beaches, and we thought we’d check them out. Our first visit took us to Awai, a cul-de-sac anchorage closed by a reef that looked really quiet and peaceful. It was.
AWAI – 16*32.031S – 167*46.167E – The reef around the anchorage isn’t much, shallow and rather beat up, and every day the villagers walk the reef at low tide to gather what they can: small octopi, shells, tiny fish that they trap in their nets.
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| Awai’s sandy beach |
Grass beds are quite healthy and this is turtle and dugong (manatee) territory.
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| Women going to the gardens |
The locals greeted us warmly. All day, we watched women paddling by on their dugouts, traveling from nearby Uliveo to the mainland of Malakula where the fertile land yields splendid crops of island cabbage (a kind of spinach,) root vegetables (water taro, yam, cassava) and of course coconut.
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| Man on his way to the gardens |
Let’s not forget the “flying foxes,” or giant fruit bats that fly overhead! If you have a gun on board, the locals will take you hunting. Yes, they are excellent to eat. Although the locals just roast them, we prefer them in civet (marinated in red wine) or paté.
When a long boat stopped by to invite us to go anchor at Uliveo, we thought well, OK, we’ll go there next.
ULIVEO – 16*31.913S – 167*49.793E – Our first encounter in Uliveo was a nightmare. As soon as we dropped anchor in front of Sangalai village we were hailed on VHF by Stewart, the self-declared yacht club and guide. Did we need a guide? Should we want to eat ashore? Visit the island? Snorkel with a guide? Nope, we didn’t think so. All we wanted was permission to snorkel along the reef. Permission granted, anywhere we wished. And so we dropped in the water and snorkeled the east side of the reef.
 |
| Peskarus landing from the inside anchorage, not reachable at low tide |
As we returned, we were confronted by (as I call him) Chief Mad Dog from Peskarus village who decreed that we had violated the custom law by snorkeling the reef and we had just been assessed a 15,000 Vatus ($150) fine.
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| Now, why did Stewart say we could snorkel? |
I lost it. After 2 hours of heated argument, with Stewart trying to swallow his mistake under the blows of Chief Mad Dog’s insults, while I responded with not-so-ladylike language to the threats of impounding our dinghy and our powercat, JP managed to calmly bring the fine down to 1,500 Vatus ($15) which we paid quite reluctantly. Chief Mad Dog returned to his village with money in his pocket and my evil eye following him… something was fishy. We left at dawn.
 |
CANOE RACE FESTIVAL – When a month later our buddy boat “Blue Bie” announced they were returning to Uliveo for the Canoe Race Festival, I was not enthused, but JP managed to convince me it could be fun. So, we returned and landed the dinghy at Peskarus. No sooner were we on land that Chef Mad Dog was passing me a letter asking for a donation for his Independence Day Festivity Committee. Was he kidding me?
 |
| Kit is the man! |
Meanwhile, JP had met Kit, and Kit had a crazy idea: bring DOMINO around to the east side of Peskarus to anchor in the lagoon, a much quieter and pleasant anchorage than in front of Sangalai. This was yet another example of village rivalry. All the yachts anchor in front of Sangalai, but none has ever enter the shallow and narrow pass into the Peskarus lagoon. Kit looked at DOMINO and knew we could do it. After sounding the pass with the dinghy, JP agreed: at high tide on neap tide, DOMINO would make it. Right now!
It was a mad dash to race the tide, but Kit had us on schedule and on track. One hour after high tide, we threaded the narrow pass, with barely 50 cm under the hulls (we draught 1.20m) and a few inches on each side (7 meter wide.) Under the delirious applause of the entire village, we dropped the hook in this splendid lagoon, the 1st yacht ever to do so. JP was suddenly the hero, the “Mensch” who had proven that Peskarus was a desirable anchorage.
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| The lagoon is an idyllic anchorage… if only boats could get in! |
That was before Philip on “Blue Bie” shot us an SMS to remind us to watch out for the tide. In 3 days, the tide amplitude would be 40cm less and we would be stuck in the lagoon until neap tide. With regret, we left the next morning at high tide, with only 30 cm clearance. That was too tight for comfort.
 |
| Paddling is at the center of the villagers’ lives |
We spent the next two days feasting with this village that turned out to be amazingly friendly. We soon found out that there was a new chief, that Chief Mad Dog had been disciplined for his poor behavior (and embezzling some of the village’s funds) and relieved of his official responsibilities. We never saw him that weekend.
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| Our reception committee |
What we saw was a village working hard to improve their destiny. The fisheries’ representative, John, showed us how his task force removed over 800 Crown of Thorns (Acanthasters) from the reef
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| Canoe making: 1st, fell a breadfruit tree |
All of us 12 cruisers were treated with the utmost courtesy, from paddling us to a reception line, flower leis, welcome speech and 2 days of activities: canoe races (“2 blacks 1 white crew”), visit of the soap factory, reef preservation education, canoe building, weaving, kava tasting, singing and dancing.
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| Then, give it a gross shape |
The women cooked splendid meals of fish and lobster, and the men roasted a pig for our last evening.
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| Then, drag it to shore |
JP took to the festivities as a fish to water, cheered by the villagers and hailed as “The Man” as he joined in the dances and led all in “Hip-Hip_Puray” and laughter.
The new chief— a retired teacher— impressed us with his organization and vision, his plans for bettering the economic future of his community. As we left, he had filled out a request for a Peace Corps volunteer and garnered donations toward the projects at the top of his list: a hot air dryer for the island’s copra cooperative and enough money to dynamite a widening in the pass (he already got the OK from the Ministry of Environment.)
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| The village’s deaf-mute is the only one who knows the secrets of sand drawing |
It was a privilege to be part of this festival, a celebration of the canoe without which the Meskaline islanders could not survive.
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| Sharing a light moment with the kids as they teach me to weave palms into balls. |
Off to another island,
Until then
dominomarie
Pentecost Island – 1-2-3 Jump!
Pentecost Island (Vanuatu) – June 2nd, 2017.
This was the stuff DISCOVERY Channel and National Geographic crave: Land Diving on Pentecost Island. One of the world’s few remaining rites of passage, Land Diving is becoming a tourist attraction that we were more than willing to pay $70 p/pers. to watch. This is, even in Vanuatu, a rare and special event, and we rushed from Port Vila to the village of Wali on the west coast of Pentecost to catch the last of it.
 |
| This is the original bungee jumping |
You see, land diving only happens at yam harvest season, when the vines that tie the divers’ feet are still moist and flexible, a short season in April-May. When June comes and the dry season starts, the vines are deemed too dry and brittle, a danger to the divers. Thus, land diving only happens for a short 6 to 8-week period each year.
This is an event specific to Pentecost Island. Nowhere else in Vanuatu is it performed. A one time, it was a rite of passage required of each young boy. It is now a voluntary act; no young boy is forced to jump. Yet, the young boys we spoke with consider it a proof of manhood, to the horror of their mothers who dare not watch.
 |
| Each jumper has his own landing style: shoulder sideways, upper back roll, chest flat. |
Pentecost is one of the few islands where traditional villages still exist, primarily on the east coast.
 |
| A branch, a stick, and 2 tuna cans do the job: perfect trolley! |
There, the locals must wear the traditional attire: waist girdle and penis sheath for men, grass skirts for women. They live in traditional palm huts, fish from traditional canoes, and subsist on their own farming of pig, cows, chicken and—of course— yam.
 |
| Reception committee |
Yam harvest is a big deal in Vanuatu and is the cause of much celebration and festivals. We joined a few, starting with land diving.
** Note – We have been using the Rocket Guide to Vanuatu for all our waypoints and have found them spot on. http://www.rocket-guide-vanuatu.com/
Shortly after we anchored by the black-rock and sand beach between Lonwe and Wali (15*54.519S – 168*11.194E) we discovered the vagaries of village politics. Lonwe to the north is catholic and French-speaking; Wali to the south is Protestant and English-speaking, the division a remnant of colonization days when the New Hebrides were French, then British.
 |
| The French-speaking villagers were about to feast with chicken… that will be for another day. |
Our friend Philip (s/v “Blue Bie”) had negotiated a show with the French village and at the appointed time, our 4 yachts disembarked to be lead to the French village. But STOP!!! The chief from the southern village showed up, telling us that the minister of tourism for the region was bringing tourists from Port Vila and had ordered the jump moved from the French to the English village. After much argument, the French-speaking villagers bowed out and we were led to the southern village. This was our 1st of many frustrating experiences of village politics.
 |
| The elder makes sure that everything is done right. |
In the end, a dozen of us tourists were led to the giant jumping tower. To be sure, there is only one man in charge of the tower, its woods, its detachable platforms, the long “lianas” that tether the jumper to the base, and the grass that tie the jumper’s feet. If the man decrees that the vines are too dry, no argument.
While the jumpers get ready, a choir of men, boys and women sway and sing to encourage all participants
 |
| Another successful landing |
Each man has a job. One is in charge of the landing platform, a plot of soft soil on a sharp slope, that he constantly cleans of debris and tills to maximum softness. This man also takes care of the jumper upon landing, helps him up and releases him from the tethers.
 |
| First jump ever! |
Two other men are in charge of helping the divers onto the tower, tethering them and setting up the jumps, as well as removing the platforms after the jumps.
The young boys, as young as 8 years old, jump first, from the tower’s lower levels. The first-time jumper was cheered on by a chorus of men, boys and women, singing and chirping him unto action. Mama was closing her eyes. But the jump was a success and the boy swelled up with pride.
 |
| The top man! |
Adult men jumped from higher and higher, until the top jumper launched himself from the top of the 30-meter tower, pumped up by chants and bird chirping. yes, he could definitely fly!
While this show was presented on the west coast village, most jumpers and dancers had come from the traditional villages on the east coast.
The “crack” sound that can be heard near the end of the jump is the proof of a functioning shock-absorbing system. Each launching platform is mounted on a few sticks. When the jumper reaches the end of his fall the vine tenses up and pulls on the platform, breaking the support sticks, therefore allowing a bit of a stretch and shock absorbing to soften the fall.
It was, indeed, a privilege to be accepted into the village and to share in the ceremony.
 |
| Back landing… stylish! |
Later, the young boy’s mother sold us coffee and bread, just to make a few Vatus so she could send her boy to school. No, secondary education is not free in Vanuatu and we were happy to spend a bit of $ to help her out. Yes, her son had jumped but the money definitely didn’t go to him.
 |
| Successful 1st jump… proud boy! |
WATERFALL BAY – 15*47.310S – 168*09.691E – A few weeks later, we anchored overnight in this beautiful bay, one of the many where waterfalls drop straight into the sea. Another nice anchorage!
Till the next one…
dominomarie
Pentecost Island – 1-2-3 Jump!
Pentecost Island (Vanuatu) – June 2nd, 2017.
This was the stuff DISCOVERY Channel and National Geographic crave: Land Diving on Pentecost Island. One of the world’s few remaining rites of passage, Land Diving is becoming a tourist attraction that we were more than willing to pay $70 p/pers. to watch. This is, even in Vanuatu, a rare and special event, and we rushed from Port Vila to the village of Wali on the west coast of Pentecost to catch the last of it.
|
| This is the original bungee jumping |
You see, land diving only happens at yam harvest season, when the vines that tie the divers’ feet are still moist and flexible, a short season in April-May. When June comes and the dry season starts, the vines are deemed too dry and brittle, a danger to the divers. Thus, land diving only happens for a short 6 to 8-week period each year.
This is an event specific to Pentecost Island. Nowhere else in Vanuatu is it performed. A one time, it was a rite of passage required of each young boy. It is now a voluntary act; no young boy is forced to jump. Yet, the young boys we spoke with consider it a proof of manhood, to the horror of their mothers who dare not watch.
|
| Each jumper has his own landing style: shoulder sideways, upper back roll, chest flat. |
Pentecost is one of the few islands where traditional villages still exist, primarily on the east coast.
|
| A branch, a stick, and 2 tuna cans do the job: perfect trolley! |
There, the locals must wear the traditional attire: waist girdle and penis sheath for men, grass skirts for women. They live in traditional palm huts, fish from traditional canoes, and subsist on their own farming of pig, cows, chicken and—of course— yam.
|
| Reception committee |
Yam harvest is a big deal in Vanuatu and is the cause of much celebration and festivals. We joined a few, starting with land diving.
** Note – We have been using the Rocket Guide to Vanuatu for all our waypoints and have found them spot on. http://www.rocket-guide-vanuatu.com/
Shortly after we anchored by the black-rock and sand beach between Lonwe and Wali (15*54.519S – 168*11.194E) we discovered the vagaries of village politics. Lonwe to the north is catholic and French-speaking; Wali to the south is Protestant and English-speaking, the division a remnant of colonization days when the New Hebrides were French, then British.
|
| The French-speaking villagers were about to feast with chicken… that will be for another day. |
Our friend Philip (s/v “Blue Bie”) had negotiated a show with the French village and at the appointed time, our 4 yachts disembarked to be lead to the French village. But STOP!!! The chief from the southern village showed up, telling us that the minister of tourism for the region was bringing tourists from Port Vila and had ordered the jump moved from the French to the English village. After much argument, the French-speaking villagers bowed out and we were led to the southern village. This was our 1st of many frustrating experiences of village politics.
|
| The elder makes sure that everything is done right. |
In the end, a dozen of us tourists were led to the giant jumping tower. To be sure, there is only one man in charge of the tower, its woods, its detachable platforms, the long “lianas” that tether the jumper to the base, and the grass that tie the jumper’s feet. If the man decrees that the vines are too dry, no argument.
While the jumpers get ready, a choir of men, boys and women sway and sing to encourage all participants
|
| Another successful landing |
Each man has a job. One is in charge of the landing platform, a plot of soft soil on a sharp slope, that he constantly cleans of debris and tills to maximum softness. This man also takes care of the jumper upon landing, helps him up and releases him from the tethers.
|
| First jump ever! |
Two other men are in charge of helping the divers onto the tower, tethering them and setting up the jumps, as well as removing the platforms after the jumps.
The young boys, as young as 8 years old, jump first, from the tower’s lower levels. The first-time jumper was cheered on by a chorus of men, boys and women, singing and chirping him unto action. Mama was closing her eyes. But the jump was a success and the boy swelled up with pride.
|
| The top man! |
Adult men jumped from higher and higher, until the top jumper launched himself from the top of the 30-meter tower, pumped up by chants and bird chirping. yes, he could definitely fly!
While this show was presented on the west coast village, most jumpers and dancers had come from the traditional villages on the east coast.
The “crack” sound that can be heard near the end of the jump is the proof of a functioning shock-absorbing system. Each launching platform is mounted on a few sticks. When the jumper reaches the end of his fall the vine tenses up and pulls on the platform, breaking the support sticks, therefore allowing a bit of a stretch and shock absorbing to soften the fall.
It was, indeed, a privilege to be accepted into the village and to share in the ceremony.
|
| Back landing… stylish! |
Later, the young boy’s mother sold us coffee and bread, just to make a few Vatus so she could send her boy to school. No, secondary education is not free in Vanuatu and we were happy to spend a bit of $ to help her out. Yes, her son had jumped but the money definitely didn’t go to him.
|
| Successful 1st jump… proud boy! |
WATERFALL BAY – 15*47.310S – 168*09.691E – A few weeks later, we anchored overnight in this beautiful bay, one of the many where waterfalls drop straight into the sea. Another nice anchorage!
Till the next one…
dominomarie
Into Vanuatu
Into Vanuatu
Port Vila, June 1, 2017
 |
| Arriving Port Vila at sunrise. |
Patience has its rewards. For five weeks, we waited for a weather window to leave New Zealand, and suddenly it was there. On the tail of a low, we rode the southerlies for 1,100 NM. Fair winds and following seas for 4 days!
 |
| Running away from the storms |
We hadn’t made a passage in so long I had forgotten the drills. I have found that my focus has changed over the years.
Are we getting old or just simplifying our life? Provisioning is not so important anymore: we find our staples of rice, beans, pasta and flour anywhere. Fresh produce can be found anywhere, especially since we insist on eating locally-grown foods. As for meat, we don’t really eat any (unless it’s fresh and locally-grown). Eggs and fish are plentiful anywhere we cruise. So, unlike our previous passages when all the lockers were overfilled with stuff: crackers, snacks, staples, this time the lockers are almost empty. It’s weird how, over 7 years of cruising, we have down-sized our pantry and gone almost vegan. As for booze, since we now drink only occasionally, the wine cellar is virtually empty. Life is simpler that way.
 |
| Fishing is a main activity on board. This short bill spearfish is an exception… released |
Rather, JP has concentrated on making the boat ever simpler to run, more efficient, and asking less of me.
Anchoring – JP had wanted to modify the anchoring system for years. Finally, he did it. With the previous configuration, the bow rollers being way inside the bows and high on the foredeck, dropping anchor in any kind of strong wind was a challenge. By the time JP would let out enough chain, the cat would be across the wind and I would have to race in order to clip the bridle before the chain would graze against the bow… scraped the paint many times that way.
 |
| Fabricating 2 steel extensions – Lower launching point, more forward, and a smooth-grooved acetal roller. |
The modification consists in a massive extension of the bow roller, bringing the launching point lower and more forward, with an acetal roller lathed in a smooth depression rather than a chain-gripping groove. The chain no longer grazes the bow as the cat turns across the wind, giving me more time to clip the bridle on. Also, the smooth groove of the acetal roller allows the anchor shaft to roll itself in the right position for storage, instead of the chain being stuck in the groove. Makes sense? My life has suddenly improved, and the anchoring can now be single-handled.
 |
| Nasty, nasty exhaust stains… and hard to clean |
Exhaust – If you buy a motor boat, make sure that the exhaust is below water. Sure, it’s a bit noisier, but no soot or smoke. I was so tired of having to clean the hulls aft of the exhaust every time we used the boat that I had mutinied. JP had mercy on me and built an extension to the exhaust, directing the fumes outward. There is still some black smoke stain after we run, but not nearly as much as before. And, to minimize my cleaning duty around the exhaust, JP painted a big black teardrop.
 |
| Not sure what to make of the tear drop, but definitely less smoke to clean |
These are little things that make my life easier, which means it makes JP happier too!
Another big deal during this haul-out season was servicing our John Deere 6081 engines, including doing a valve adjustment. We just found out during this last passage that this adjustment gave us a 20% increase in performance. Now, at 1025 RPM, running at 10 Kts, we burn 4 GPH instead of 5. A significant savings!
 |
| Some people look for the pot of gold… rainbow was chasing us and we didn’t want to be anywhere close to the wind and rain at the end of that rainbow! |
It only took us 4 days and 13 hours to run from Opua (NZ) to Port Vila (Vanuatu), an 1,112 NM trip. After a bit of a rough start in cross seas (2m from the east, 1m from the west) that lasted almost 24 hours, the following 3 days were just a dream, following seas all the way.
 |
| Sunset off Tanna Island. Perhaps the volcano smoke gave the sun this hazy red tinge? |
We fished, ran before storm clouds and rainbows, drank blood-orange sunset and were surprised by glorious sunrises.
 |
| The market: peanuts! |
We are spending the season in Vanuatu, JP resting his brain and hands…. except for trying to catch more fish!
 |
| Baskets of yams and sweet potatoes |
As for me, I spent the day lazing around the local market. It runs 24/7, amazingly.
The fridge is stocked up, and we’re ready for some new adventures.
 |
| Even in the rain…. |
We’re off to Pentecost Island…
Till then.
dominomarie
Into Vanuatu
Into Vanuatu
Port Vila, June 1, 2017
|
| Arriving Port Vila at sunrise. |
Patience has its rewards. For five weeks, we waited for a weather window to leave New Zealand, and suddenly it was there. On the tail of a low, we rode the southerlies for 1,100 NM. Fair winds and following seas for 4 days!
|
| Running away from the storms |
We hadn’t made a passage in so long I had forgotten the drills. I have found that my focus has changed over the years.
Are we getting old or just simplifying our life? Provisioning is not so important anymore: we find our staples of rice, beans, pasta and flour anywhere. Fresh produce can be found anywhere, especially since we insist on eating locally-grown foods. As for meat, we don’t really eat any (unless it’s fresh and locally-grown). Eggs and fish are plentiful anywhere we cruise. So, unlike our previous passages when all the lockers were overfilled with stuff: crackers, snacks, staples, this time the lockers are almost empty. It’s weird how, over 7 years of cruising, we have down-sized our pantry and gone almost vegan. As for booze, since we now drink only occasionally, the wine cellar is virtually empty. Life is simpler that way.
|
| Fishing is a main activity on board. This short bill spearfish is an exception… released |
Rather, JP has concentrated on making the boat ever simpler to run, more efficient, and asking less of me.
Smooth running!
Anchoring – JP had wanted to modify the anchoring system for years. Finally, he did it. With the previous configuration, the bow rollers being way inside the bows and high on the foredeck, dropping anchor in any kind of strong wind was a challenge. By the time JP would let out enough chain, the cat would be across the wind and I would have to race in order to clip the bridle before the chain would graze against the bow… scraped the paint many times that way.
|
| Fabricating 2 steel extensions – Lower launching point, more forward, and a smooth-grooved acetal roller. |
The modification consists in a massive extension of the bow roller, bringing the launching point lower and more forward, with an acetal roller lathed in a smooth depression rather than a chain-gripping groove. The chain no longer grazes the bow as the cat turns across the wind, giving me more time to clip the bridle on. Also, the smooth groove of the acetal roller allows the anchor shaft to roll itself in the right position for storage, instead of the chain being stuck in the groove. Makes sense? My life has suddenly improved, and the anchoring can now be single-handled.
|
| Nasty, nasty exhaust stains… and hard to clean |
Exhaust – If you buy a motor boat, make sure that the exhaust is below water. Sure, it’s a bit noisier, but no soot or smoke. I was so tired of having to clean the hulls aft of the exhaust every time we used the boat that I had mutinied. JP had mercy on me and built an extension to the exhaust, directing the fumes outward. There is still some black smoke stain after we run, but not nearly as much as before. And, to minimize my cleaning duty around the exhaust, JP painted a big black teardrop.
|
| Not sure what to make of the tear drop, but definitely less smoke to clean |
These are little things that make my life easier, which means it makes JP happier too!
Another big deal during this haul-out season was servicing our John Deere 6081 engines, including doing a valve adjustment. We just found out during this last passage that this adjustment gave us a 20% increase in performance. Now, at 1025 RPM, running at 10 Kts, we burn 4 GPH instead of 5. A significant savings!
|
| Some people look for the pot of gold… rainbow was chasing us and we didn’t want to be anywhere close to the wind and rain at the end of that rainbow! |
It only took us 4 days and 13 hours to run from Opua (NZ) to Port Vila (Vanuatu), an 1,112 NM trip. After a bit of a rough start in cross seas (2m from the east, 1m from the west) that lasted almost 24 hours, the following 3 days were just a dream, following seas all the way.
|
| Sunset off Tanna Island. Perhaps the volcano smoke gave the sun this hazy red tinge? |
We fished, ran before storm clouds and rainbows, drank blood-orange sunset and were surprised by glorious sunrises.
|
| The market: peanuts! |
We are spending the season in Vanuatu, JP resting his brain and hands…. except for trying to catch more fish!
|
| Baskets of yams and sweet potatoes |
As for me, I spent the day lazing around the local market. It runs 24/7, amazingly.
The fridge is stocked up, and we’re ready for some new adventures.
|
| Even in the rain…. |
We’re off to Pentecost Island…
Till then.
dominomarie
Leaving New Zealand
Leaving New Zealand
Russell, May 25, 2017
It seems that leaving New Zealand is never easy. It’s not just the great boating and fishing that hold us back; it’s not just the friendly Kiwis that tug at our friendship heartstrings; it’s the weather, always the weather, that bars us from moving straight north to Vanuatu.
 |
| Under leaden skies and another gale warning, JP finds the way to catch dinner. |
A year ago, we left NZ in the first half of May to hang out at Minerva Reef for a week. This year, it’s been much harder to find a window, even a short 4-day window.
 |
| Trying to dodge weather… not today! |
The Kiwis say you should leave for the tropics before well into May, and it certainly is true this year.
 |
| In Whangarei, extra-tropical cyclone COOK brought us beautiful skies |
For the last five weeks we’ve been waiting for a weather window. Leaving New Zealand at this time of year is tricky. The waters north of Fiji are still very warm (30c till last week) and are a caldron for spinning cyclones. In five weeks, we’ve seen extra-tropical cyclone COOK, then DONNA (cat. 4) and ELLA (cat. 2). These barrel down from the north and the space between NZ and the Tropics is no place to be.
 |
| Cyclone from the north, ridges and troughs and all sorts of nasty things. |
As if the end-of-summer cyclones are not enough to deal with, a train of early winter storms roll in from the Tasman sea and Australia. The last two weeks have seen almost daily gale warnings for our area. Again, not a time to be at sea.
 |
| More nasty weather and gales |
In addition to the cyclones from the North and gales from the West, systems also roll in from the East, as the trade winds try to establish themselves. Result? We are pinned down in the Bay of Islands. Last week, some 50 yachts were waiting to leave for Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu, or New Caledonia. About half of them have left. Most have made it to their destinations, some in 40 knots of winds and 5-meter seas, really horrendous conditions. Some have had to return: one broken autopilot, one dismasted, yet another one with dirty fuel -hence no engine, no power. It’s been a horrendous beginning of season.
 |
| Cold in the morning (1.3 celsius = 34F) may be pretty but it’s too cold for us! |
The Bay of Islands has seen us switch anchorages almost every day, as the wind shifts from NE, to NW to SW…
so many sheltered spots, but few have cell phone reception, which means no Internet!
As much as we itch to move to warmer climate to avoid getting up with 1 to 10 celsius outside, we have been patient. We agreed with the Island Cruising Association (ICA) leader in waiting it out and not jumping into a “dirty” weather window. We have waited, sitting at anchor for a month.
 |
| Taking advantage of a sunny morning and low tide, JP and I go clamming. |
 |
| Part of our passtime: looking at boats! |
We managed to keep busy. Fishing and scavenging? Oysters, mussels, cockles, clams, scallops, red snappers and “kingfish” (yellowtail) have been part of our daily diet for the last few months.
 |
| M/Y “MARGUERITE” |
Hiking? The bay of Islands has impressive scenic hikes with stunning views. The hills twitter with birds and the smell of Manuka bush in bloom permeates the air.
 |
| Manuka bloom |
 |
| Koru, or the Kiwi fern. |
Boat chores? Of course… always.
 |
| Our wonderful ventilation hatches: never use the A/C |
JP has serviced just about every piece of equipment on the boat, including our five double-door ventilation hatches. That’s 20 pressure locks, each made up of 17 parts. Kudos to JP!
 |
| Massive extensions for the RAYA anchor bow rollers |
The major refit this year was an improvement in the anchoring system. Each anchor launch has been lowered and brought forward in an attempt to reduce the risk of scraping the chain against the bows when dropping the hook in high winds. So far, so good.
 |
| There is always a new quilt to work on |
As for me, I took advantage of the quiet anchorages to quilt, quilt, quilt.
 |
| The lovely Bay of Islands, NE coast |
Tonight, one more look at the GRIBs: we are good to go tomorrow, as soon as a small system blows through. Then, it’s 4 days of NO WIND! Good for us, but the sailboats aren’t too happy: motoring it is.
Of course, we’ll have weather under way. Our new IRIDIUM Go system is up, with PREDICT WIND offshore app for weather on the go.
 |
| HF: check – Genset: check |
JP aslo fixed the HF radio so we can contact NORTHLAND RADIO (ZMH292) daily for our trip report. Peter Mott does a fantastic job of checking on the fleet. He currently monitors over 20 yachts underway and has another 17 on the back burner, ready to leave this weekend. Gotta love those HAM radio guys!
 |
| RUSSELL – |
So, that’s it! We’re off to Vanuatu for the season…
We will enjoy the new seats and cushions in the saloon.
Also will love the widened bistro table on the aft deck and the fix outdoors cushions: no more slip-sliding!
 |
| JP worked hard… time for R&R |
Until then
dominomarie
Leaving New Zealand
Leaving New Zealand
Russell, May 25, 2017
It seems that leaving New Zealand is never easy. It’s not just the great boating and fishing that hold us back; it’s not just the friendly Kiwis that tug at our friendship heartstrings; it’s the weather, always the weather, that bars us from moving straight north to Vanuatu.
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| Under leaden skies and another gale warning, JP finds the way to catch dinner. |
A year ago, we left NZ in the first half of May to hang out at Minerva Reef for a week. This year, it’s been much harder to find a window, even a short 4-day window.
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| Trying to dodge weather… not today! |
The Kiwis say you should leave for the tropics before well into May, and it certainly is true this year.
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| In Whangarei, extra-tropical cyclone COOK brought us beautiful skies |
For the last five weeks we’ve been waiting for a weather window. Leaving New Zealand at this time of year is tricky. The waters north of Fiji are still very warm (30c till last week) and are a caldron for spinning cyclones. In five weeks, we’ve seen extra-tropical cyclone COOK, then DONNA (cat. 4) and ELLA (cat. 2). These barrel down from the north and the space between NZ and the Tropics is no place to be.
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| Cyclone from the north, ridges and troughs and all sorts of nasty things. |
As if the end-of-summer cyclones are not enough to deal with, a train of early winter storms roll in from the Tasman sea and Australia. The last two weeks have seen almost daily gale warnings for our area. Again, not a time to be at sea.
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| More nasty weather and gales |
In addition to the cyclones from the North and gales from the West, systems also roll in from the East, as the trade winds try to establish themselves. Result? We are pinned down in the Bay of Islands. Last week, some 50 yachts were waiting to leave for Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu, or New Caledonia. About half of them have left. Most have made it to their destinations, some in 40 knots of winds and 5-meter seas, really horrendous conditions. Some have had to return: one broken autopilot, one dismasted, yet another one with dirty fuel -hence no engine, no power. It’s been a horrendous beginning of season.
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| Cold in the morning (1.3 celsius = 34F) may be pretty but it’s too cold for us! |
The Bay of Islands has seen us switch anchorages almost every day, as the wind shifts from NE, to NW to SW…
so many sheltered spots, but few have cell phone reception, which means no Internet!
As much as we itch to move to warmer climate to avoid getting up with 1 to 10 celsius outside, we have been patient. We agreed with the Island Cruising Association (ICA) leader in waiting it out and not jumping into a “dirty” weather window. We have waited, sitting at anchor for a month.
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| Taking advantage of a sunny morning and low tide, JP and I go clamming. |
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| Part of our passtime: looking at boats! |
We managed to keep busy. Fishing and scavenging? Oysters, mussels, cockles, clams, scallops, red snappers and “kingfish” (yellowtail) have been part of our daily diet for the last few months.
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| M/Y “MARGUERITE” |
Hiking? The bay of Islands has impressive scenic hikes with stunning views. The hills twitter with birds and the smell of Manuka bush in bloom permeates the air.
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| Manuka bloom |
|
| Koru, or the Kiwi fern. |
Boat chores? Of course… always.
|
| Our wonderful ventilation hatches: never use the A/C |
JP has serviced just about every piece of equipment on the boat, including our five double-door ventilation hatches. That’s 20 pressure locks, each made up of 17 parts. Kudos to JP!
|
| Massive extensions for the RAYA anchor bow rollers |
The major refit this year was an improvement in the anchoring system. Each anchor launch has been lowered and brought forward in an attempt to reduce the risk of scraping the chain against the bows when dropping the hook in high winds. So far, so good.
|
| There is always a new quilt to work on |
As for me, I took advantage of the quiet anchorages to quilt, quilt, quilt.
|
| The lovely Bay of Islands, NE coast |
Tonight, one more look at the GRIBs: we are good to go tomorrow, as soon as a small system blows through. Then, it’s 4 days of NO WIND! Good for us, but the sailboats aren’t too happy: motoring it is.
Of course, we’ll have weather under way. Our new IRIDIUM Go system is up, with PREDICT WIND offshore app for weather on the go.
|
| HF: check – Genset: check |
JP aslo fixed the HF radio so we can contact NORTHLAND RADIO (ZMH292) daily for our trip report. Peter Mott does a fantastic job of checking on the fleet. He currently monitors over 20 yachts underway and has another 17 on the back burner, ready to leave this weekend. Gotta love those HAM radio guys!
|
| RUSSELL – |
So, that’s it! We’re off to Vanuatu for the season…
We will enjoy the new seats and cushions in the saloon.
Also will love the widened bistro table on the aft deck and the fix outdoors cushions: no more slip-sliding!
|
| JP worked hard… time for R&R |
Until then
dominomarie
DOMINO’s Fiji Compendium
Opua, April 3, 2017 –
Caught a swimsuit model relaxing at Octopus Resort, Yasawas.
The Fiji cruising season is upon us and yachts are lining up in Opua, waiting for a weather window. We’ve cruised Fiji twice and we used the Sai…
