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Our advertising of Envoy on this Blog has resulted in an offer to purchase from long time readers of the Blog. In fact not only have this Australian couple been following our Blog since its inception, but followed Envoy’s Atlantic Crossing by the previous owners in 2004. The potential buyer’s offer is naturally subject to their inspection and survey which will take place here in Lefkas late October. So Envoy is “under offer” and we won’t be considering any further offers unless this sale doesn’t proceed.
We’ve arrived in Lefkada after a good trip from Auckland spending one night in Dubai and one in Athens on the way. Emirates are a great airline and the nearly 17 hour flight passed quite quickly aided by a solid 8 hours sleep. We like Emirates 30kg luggage allowance, their lenient attitude towards cabin bags and the generous space between economy seat rows. Having a spare seat between us on both flights certainly helped too. Our hotel in Dubai was good and it’s a convenient place to break the trip.
We arived to find Envoy as expected on the hardstand under the care of our contractor – Sailand with everything looking good and more progress getting her ready for cruising than we expected.
Sailand completed a refurbishment of the Lugger’s exhaust system which included replacing some exhaust sections, building a new stainless steel muffler and replacing all heat insulation.
They had also completed Envoy’s anti fouling and attended to a small list of winter jobs:
-Re-sealing two acylic ventilation hatches into their aluminium frames because the sealant had failed
-Servicing the sea water circulating pumps on the generator and wing engine (we get this done annually)
-Checking the wing engine’s shaft seal, prop and prop shaft
-Checking the main prop shaft’s alignment, internal rubber sleeve and clamps, removing the stuffing box’s sealings for inspection and finding them in good condition, greasing and replacing them
-Changing the main gearbox oil and cleaning its oil strainer
-Replacing a leaking galley sink mixer/faucet with a new one
-Replacing the large Nautica RHIB’s start battery
Another contractor has also polished Envoy’s bootstripe and white topsides gelcoat areas while yet another has repaired a slow air leak in one of the pontoons of our smaller Valiant RHIB.
Today was quite a sight when a huge crane came alongside Envoy to lift our larger RHIB down onto a trailer for annual servicing of its 25HP Yamaha outboard. Also today I took four inflatable life jackets in for two-yearly servicing together with one fire extinguisher which has its gauge needle in the red when it should be in the green.
There’s a few more jobs being done on Tuesday such as filter replacements and then on Wednesday we expect to launch Envoy and do a short sea trial with Sailand’s engineer aboard. Then we hope to leave the marina by the weekend. Sorry no pictures in this posting.


We are finally set to leave Auckland and return to Greece in about 10 days time to resume cruising.
The Ionian weather is generally fairly good to the end of October, so we’ll be able to enjoy two months cruising before going back into Lefkas Marina for the winter.
After launching we’ll spend a few days in the Lefkas area while we confirm everything aboard Envoy is working correctly and then head north to Corfu. Our watermaker’s main pump has been reconditioned in Athens during our absence and Angelos will install it in Corfu’s Gouvia Marina. Needless to say this will also be a good chance for Di to check out some of her favorite shopping haunts.
From there we’ll head around Corfu’s NW coast to check out a small island we’ve not visited previously – Nisos Mathraki and its village of Plakes. From here it’s only about 7 miles NW to the island of Nisis Othoni where we’ve anchored previously, but not been ashore to visit the village of Ammos.
After that we’ll cruise over to Italy’s NE coast and explore the Gulf of Taranto where there are several interesting places to check out. We’ll probably get a rental car here and explore a bit further afield too.
This plan is about all that time will allow this year, but we’re looking forward to being on and in the water, having some sunshine, enjoying Envoy and exploring some new places. This time of year is when tuna are caught too, so we’ll be trolling our lines.
Our great friend Chris, aka McGyver, will join us early September and we’ve got a few projects lined up to test his skills and keep him occupied.
Shortly I’ll do a further post talking technical.

Amazing Cruising Lifestyle For Sale

This is your opportunity to live the cruising dream aboard Envoy, a stunning Nordhavn 46 motor yacht now offered for sale.

Envoy anchored in Turkey

Envoy is a magnificent example of the legendary Nordhavn 46 motor yacht. Bold in her distinctive design, she offers the ultimate in secure and comfortable cruising for a vessel of this size range. With two double cabins, each with an en-suite bathroom, a well-equipped galley and expansive, sun-drenched deck areas, she offers a cruising experience that will absolutely delight you and your guests. 
  • Envoy is in superb condition, having been meticulously maintained by all previous owners
  • Her elegant and distinctive appearance makes her a talking point wherever she goes
  • She is currently located in the exotic Greek Islands
  • Included with the boat is literally everything you need to start cruising, from all the navigational equipment, tools and spare parts, through to the bedding, crockery, cutlery, glassware and all kitchen equipment etc… all you need to do is step aboard with your bags of groceries and set off on your journey
  • Detailed, accurate and up-to-date technical manuals included, as well as after-sales technical support if required

History of Envoy

Envoy was launched in 1991 and we purchased her in 2006. We had become obsessed with the Nordhavn 46, renowned for its offshore ability, economical operation and luxurious accommodations… so we scoured the world for the very best example on the market. 

On finding Envoy we were absolutely delighted to see her superb fit-out and condition. This was reinforced when a well-known Nordhavn 46 owner and circumnavigator told us, “I can’t think of a better taken care of and upgraded Nordhavn 46 than Envoy.”

Envoy has a great pedigree originally cruising to Panama, the Caymans, Florida, the Bahamas and the Exumas and Turks islands. Then in 2004 she crossed the Atlantic with the Nordhavn Atlantic Rally and cruised to Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Turkey and Croatia before we purchased her.

Since then she has cruised Italy, Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and Turkey and is now based at  Lefkada Island’s marina in Greece.

Envoy cruising in Greece. The starboard stabiliser pole has been deployed to set a flopper stopper when anchoring. Hydraulic stabilisers provide excellent stability under way

Sale of Envoy 
Having spent all these magical years cruising the Mediterranean aboard Envoy, much of which is chronicled on this blog, we are now moving onto the next phase of our lives and as such are selling Envoy. 

Envoy’s systems are in excellent working condition and she is completely set up and ready to continue cruising the Med or beyond. We will provide full on-board instruction regarding Envoy’s operation and maintenance as well as after sales technical support if required.

Whilst Envoy was launched in 1991, much of her equipment dates from later. We offer Envoy on the basis that she is sound and seaworthy with all equipment working correctly unless otherwise specified. All three of Envoy’s owners have maintained her with no expense spared and loving care. 

Please contact owner Laurie Cranfield – or tel: +64 21 939440 for pricing and answers to questions.

Type of Vessel: Nordhavn 46 Full Displacement Trawler
  • Builder: Pacific Asian Enterprises / Nordhavn
  • Designer: Jeff Leishman
  • Hull Identification Number (HIN): PAI46019K090
  • Year Built as per HIN: 1990
  • Year Sold: 1991 Model Year
  • Registration Number / Port: NZ1315 / Auckland
  • Radio Call Sign: ZMA 2040
  • MMSI Number: 512 030 000
  • LOA: 13.95m
  • LWL: 11.68m
  • Beam: 4.7m
  • Draft: 1.52m
  • Displacement: 28.12 tonne
  • Cruising Speed: 7.4 knots
  • Range: 2,800nm
  • Colour: Light grey hull, white topsides. Complete hull and some of topsides repainted mid-2017
Hull Construction
  • Hull: Moulded Solid GRP
  • Topsides: Moulded GRP with stainless steel framed windows
  • Hull Type: Full displacement – D/L 383, Cp 0.63, A/B Ratio 2.3:1
  • Frames: Partitions, bulkheads and longitudinal stringers
  • Deck Beams: Moulded GRP
  • Decks: Moulded GRP with wood core
  • Ballast: 4,800lb in keel

This photo shows the upper deck where the larger RHIB is stored under its cover on its cradle. Note the weatherproof deck storage box. You can also see the boom with its two winches used to lift the RHIBs. Foreground left is one of the stabiliser paravanes in its storage rack

Main Engine
  • Type: Lugger L6414D-KC-BW72, 143hp (107Kw), 6 cylinder diesel, 7,428 hours. Recommended RPM: Idle: 650, Cruise: 1700
  • Cooling System: Fresh water through Walter keel cooler
  • Alternator: Balmar 9435 160 amp
  • Primary Fuel Filtration: Dual, interchangeable Racor 75/900FG with manifold vacuum gauge and water alarm in PilotHouse
  • Transmission: Borg Warner Velvet Drive Model 10.18.012 (72 Series), ratio 2.91:1
  • Throttle and Clutch Controls: Morse cable (2016)
  • Propeller Shaft: 50mm Stainless steel stub shaft (2010)
  • Shaft Log Type: Fibreglass stern tube and flex hose (2001)
  • Bearing Material: Bronze (2001)
  • Stuffing Box Seal: Silicone impregnated stuffing 
  • Bearings: Rubber Cutless (2010)
  • Main Propeller: Bronze four blade 30 x 19 plus spare three blade
Wing Engine
  • Type: Yanmar 3GM30FV 25hp diesel, 801 hours, mounted on GRP stringers
  • Cooling System: Fresh water heat exchanger
  • Fuel Filters: Primary – Racor, Secondary – Yanmar
  • Alternator: Balmar 100 amp
  • Transmission: Kanzaki vee drive Model KM3V, ratio 3.20:1
  • Throttle and Clutch Controls: Morse cable
  • Propeller Shaft: New in 2001, reconditioned 2013
  • Shaft Log Type: Fibreglass stem tube and flex hose (2001)
  • Bearing Material: Bronze (2001)
  • Stuffing Box Seal: Volvo Deep Seal 32mm (2011)
  • Bearings: Rubber Cutless (2010)
  • Propeller: Max Prop folding
  • Exhaust Silencer: GRP
Diesel Auxiliary Generator
  • Manufacturer: Northern Lights in sound shield, 4,683 hours, Model Number: M753-811
  • Number of Cylinders: 3
  • Engine Cooling System: Fresh water heat exchanger
  • Type of Fuel Filters: Primary – Racor 500G. Secondary – Northern Lights
  • Fuel Usage: About 2.9L/hr
  • Exhaust Line: Cast riser, to hose, to lift style muffler, to hose, to through hull.
  • Stainless steel exhaust elbow and GRP exhaust silencer, seawater cooled
  • Kilowatt: 8
  • Voltage: 120/240, 60Hz
  • Phase: Single
Other Engine Room Equipment
  • Inverter: Xantrex 3Kw, 110V
  • Engine Room Blowers: Two 12V forced-air Dayton 2C 646
  • Water Heater: Seaward S1100 electric and engine driven 11gal (2004), 1500W, 120V, ignition protected
  • Water Maker: HRO Seafari Model 740-2 SFM 31gal/hr, installed 2003, modified 2012
  • Oil Change System: Groco BMX3-60 Oil Change System with 12V pump servicing Lugger, Wing Engine and Genset through a three way manifold (2003)
  • Fuel Primer System: 12V Walboro pump for Lugger, Wing Engine and Genset (2003)
  • Fuel Polishing System: Two 12V pumps: one high speed Groco SPO-60-R (2010) and one slow speed Walboro (2003). Uses Racor 900MA filter and De-Bug L1000
  • Aircon Manufacturer: Marine Air Systems with a forward system (2004)and an amidships system
  • Battery Charger (12 volt): Charles 50/60Hz charges both house and engine start banks through a combiner 
  • Battery Charger (24 volt): Dedicated Mastervolt charger (2003) for the 24V bow thruster in chain locker along with two Deka 8A4-DDM deep cycle AGM Batteries (2016), 210AH powering the bow thruster
  • Engine Start Batteries: Two 12V (2017) in parallel for a 12V system starts all engines
  • House Batteries: Six Deka 8AGC2 AGM 6V deep cycle batteries Three sets of two 6V batteries are wired in series, then the three resulting 12V banks (each 220Ah) are wired in parallel for 660Ah
  • Isolation of Batteries: All three banks have isolation switches
  • Lighting Voltage: All 12V DC except one 120V AC in PilotHouse
  • Wiring Protection: Circuit breakers and fuses.
  • Electrolysis Protection: Bonding system and isolation transformer
  • Grounded: Negative

Fuel manifold on starboard side of engine room

Fittings and Equipment
  • Deck Hardware: Stainless
  • Hand Rails: Stainless
  • Stanchions: Stainless
  • Grab Rails: Stainless
  • Anchor Roller: Integrated stainless with teflon rollers
  • Boarding Gates: Port and starboard in cockpit
  • Swim Ladder: Stainless and teak mounting to starboard
  • Signal mast / Boom / Yardarm: Forespar aluminium
  • Stabilizers (active): Naiad MultiSea II (2004)
  • Stabilisers (passive): Custom aluminium boom and Forespar spars with galvanised and painted paravane stabilisers (“Birds”). Stainless steel Flopper Stoppers attach for stability at anchor
  • Bow Thruster: Wesmar Model T12/10 24V, 12hp with bronze 3-bladed 10 x 10.75inch propeller
  • Anchor Windlass: Maxwell 2200 vertical wildcat / capstan driven, 9m/min, rated 1,000kg, 1200W, !2V motor (new 2013) driven from house battery bank
  • Ground Tackle: 88lbs Delta Setfast Anchor attached to approx 400ft (122m) of 3/8inch BBB galvanised chain. Spares – 60 lb Plow style anchor stored in bottom of chain locker, 60lb Danforth style stored on boat deck, Fortress FX-37 stored on boat deck
  • Boom Winch: The Nautica RHIB is launched and retrieved using the boom on the mast and two Rule 3300R electric winches (2002) controlled by an Imtra 4-position wired remote control (2002) or a wireless remote control (2005) also used for raising/lowering the passarelle and lifting the RHIBs behind the transom. 
  • Steering Gear: Single station hydraulic HyDrive 
  • Windscreen Wipers: two on forward facing PilotHouse windows
  • Power outlets: Throughout the vessel are 120V (USA style) , 220V (European style) and 12V outlets. The 120V outlets are fed by generator or inverter. The 220V outlets are fed from shorepower
  • Cooling Fans: In saloon, both sleeping cabins, Pilothouse, main head

Photo shows pilothouse looking to port. Navigation computer and screen is centre right and the circuit breaker panel is lower right

This photo looks aft in the pilothouse. The settee converts into an additional single berth

1. Nautica (large RHIB) – normally stored on cradle on Boat Deck. 
  • Model: 1999 3.7m Nautica DeLuxe
  • Outboard Motor: 1999 25hp Yamaha 4-stroke with power tilt and trim
  • Accessories: ICOM VHF radio & antenna, Hummingbird depth sounder with removable display, navigation lights, bilge pump, air pump, tachometer, speedometer, two anchors with warps, paddles, fenders, chaps (new 2017), 12V power outlet, integral 22gal petrol tank

2. Valiant (small RHIB) – normally stored Aft of transom supported by boom

  • Model: 2010 2.7m Valiant Dynamic
  • Outboard Motor: 2007 2.3hp Honda 4-stroke, air cooled
  • Accessories: Oars, pump, repair kit, spare fuel tank
Navigation Electronics
  • Compass: Ritchie Power Damp
  • Wind Indicator: B&G Network (2003). Also reads house bank voltage
  • Digital Hand-Held Wind Indicator:  Smart Sensor Model AR816 
  • Weatherfax: Furuno DFAX model 207 (2001). No longer used as replaced by internet forecasts
  • NavTex l: ICS Receiver Model: NAV 4 printing NavTex connected to GPS signal
  • NavTex 2: Furuno NX-300 (2006) LCD display NavTex connected to GPS signal
  • Barometer: 4½ inch Weems and Plath in PilotHouse. 
  • Ships Clock: 4½ inch Weems and Plath
  • Barometer and clock also in Saloon and Master Cabin
  • GPS: Raytheon RayNav 300 (2003)
  • Garmin GPS I2XL (2002)
  • Northstar 951X Model No 1500-A
  • Main Navigation Computer: Toshiba Satellite A35 Laptop with MaxSea C-Map V10.1.3.2 and navigation software. Samsung SyncMaster 150MP flat screen
  • Backup Navigation Computer: Compaq Presario Laptop Model 12XL300 in 1200 series (about 2001) with Windows ME and same navigation software as above
  • Auto Pilot 1: Robertson AP200DL with Simrad RF45X sender (new 2107)
  • Auto Pilot2: SimRad AP 21 (2004) with RF300S sender. NOTE: each autopilot has its own hydraulic pump, compass, rudder indicator and control head. They are independent units with made from an electrical switch behind the breaker panel
  • Rudder Angle Indicator: Robertson RI101
  • Speed Log: BandG Network (2003)
  • Distance Log: BandG Network (2003)
  • Radar: Raytheon R41X Open array 48 mile antenna linked to GPS
  • Raytheon RL9 closed array 16 mile antenna linked to GPS
  • Depth Sounder 1: Interphase Probe forward searching sonar (2002)
  • Depth Sounder 2: BandG Network Digital (2002)
  • Sat Phone: Iridium Motorola 9505 (2004). Probably needs replacing as old technology
  • Radios: Main – ICOM M602 DSC VHF (2003)
  • Shakespeare Galaxy 23 ft VHF antenna (2003)
  • Secondary – ICOM IC-M56 VHF
  • Shakespeare 3db antenna on masthead (2003)
  • ICOM IC-M710 SSB Shakespeare 23ft antenna (2002)
  • VHF antenna (spare) mounted on PilotHouse roof
  • ICOM Handheld IC-M1v (2006), re-chargeable on 110V
  • Standard Horizon Handheld HX350S replaceable battery powered
  • Closed Circuit TV System: Black and white rear view vision
  • Engine Room Video System: Three Magnavox colour cameras in Engine Room with images displayed as required on Samsung screen
  • Portable Communications: 2 sets of radio headset systems
  • Ships Bell: Chrome-plated brass bell in PilotHouse with mount also in cockpit
  • Horn: Dual Trumpet Electric/Air (2002)
  • Loud Hailer: Speaker in Cockpit operated from ICOM IC-M602 radio
  • Navigation Lights: Port (2013) and Starboard (2017), forward mast head, stern, anchor
  • Temperature and Humidity Measuring system: Digitech XC-0328 (2016) 8 channel wireless thermometer /hygrometer with main LCD screen in PilotHouse and additional sensors in cockpit and engine room.

Photo shows the amidships master cabin looking to port with walk around king size double berth

Here is the guest cabin looking to port

Safety Equipment
  • Bilge Pumps 2 x Jabsco 36600-0000 (2004), 8gpm, 12V, wired directly to house bank. Self priming, manual or auto operation, both using Ultra Safety Systems sensors. Quick EBSN bilge depth sensor
  • Edson Model 638 high capacity manual pump
  • 120V Rule emergency portable pump
  • Several hand pumps of various sizes and capacities
  • Emergency Flares: Full complement of current dated red parachute, red hand and smoke canisters
  • Life Jackets: 1 x Stearns belt-worn CO2 inflatable buoyancy vest; 1 x West Marine WM-38MH self-inflating; 2 x Marinepool (2013) CO2 self-inflatable; 1 x Stearns 429-06, Type 2, adult offshore, not inflatable; 3 x Safegyard Corp Model S225RT, adult offshore, not inflatable; 1 x Child lifejacket
  • Whistles and strobe lights for several jackets
  • Life Ring: Starboard forward bulkhead in front of PilotHouse
  • Rescue Line 1 x crew rescue system mounted boat deck aft
  • EPIRB McMurdo A5G 406 MHz transmitter and 121.5 MHz SAR
  • homing frequency. With built-in GPS. To be replaced with new prior sale
  • Abandon Ship Ditch-bag Bag with all necessary items
  • First Aid Kit: Comprehensive kit includes medicines, antibiotics, digital BP and pulse monitor
  • Binoculars: Fujinon 7×50 7d, Nikon 7×50 7.2d CFWP, Nikon Action 8×40 8.2d. Plus 1 pair in ditch bag
  • Emergency tiller: Stainless steel, stored in Lazarette rack
  • Seabrake drogue: In anchor locker
  • Towing Line: In anchor locker
Photo shows starboard side of saloon with three steps up to pilothouse on right and several steps down to master cabin left
Fire Fighting Equipment and Wash Downs
  • Fixed Extinguisher: Sea-Fire Model 100CG, 10lbs Halon 1301, DOT39 NRC500/720 M106, Model 100CG. Mounted port side of engine room
  • Portable Extinguishers: Saloon – Anaf PS2Y ABC RINA 2kg, powder. Modiak 2kg ABC powder, master cabin – Mobiak 2kg ABC85, guest cabin – Mobiak 2kg ABC85, PilotHouse – 2 x Anaf PS2Y ABC RINA 2kg powder, Anaf PS6-F ABC 6 kg, powder
  • Auxiliary Fire Pumps: Salt water wash down on foredeck, Fresh water hose in Cockpit
  • Fire Blanket: Galley
  • Smoke Detector/Alarms: I – Engine Room, 1 – PilotHouse, 1 – Guest Cabin, 1 – top of stairs to master cabin. All powered by 9V batteries
Entertainment Electronics
  • Guest Cabin: Sharp flat screen (2003), DVD player
  • Saloon Home Theatre: Sharp AM/FM/CD/DVD 110V player surround sound home theatre with 5 speakers, amplifier, subwoofer and remote control (2004). Sony DVD DVP-SR 750H (2011) with
  • LG Flatron E2360V-PN flat screen (2011)
  • Stereos: PilotHouse: Pioneer Sat ready/MP3/CD stereo (2006) with iPod adaptor, remote control and two speakers
  • Master Cabin: wiring and 2 speakers only for Pioneer unit
  • Guest Cabin: Pioneer CD/AM/FM tuner with 2 speakers (2004)

The galley is port side forward of the saloon. Note microwave, stove, garbage compactor. The refrigerator is to the right

The large and efficient AC-powered refrigerator is on the starboard side of the galley

Galley Equipment
  • Stove: Force 10 Gormet 63351 (2002) 3-burner stove with oven and broiler, auto lighting
  • LPG Tanks 4 x replaceable lpg bottles suitable for Greece and Italy. Bottles typically last 45-60 days
  • LPG Tank Location: Vented locker on port side of PilotHouse. One spare in vented locker, two stored in protective bags on boat deck
  • Stove Lines and Regulator: Approved type with overfill protection valves
  • Shut-Off for Stove: In galley, main breaker panel on lpg bottles
  • Vent Blower: Above stove
  • Microwave: Whirlpool MT1071SGBO, 120V, 60Hz
  • Refrigeration: Rich Beers custom 120V cold plate refrigerator and freezer
  • Sink: Double stainless steel
  • Garbage Disposal: ISE Badger (2006) Insinkerator, Marine Appliances Model EX1055 Compactor, 2200W.
  • Kettle: One for gas plus Blue Line Listesi WK8261, 220V, 2200W for shorepower
  • Toaster: One for gas plus 110V pop-up (2012)
Also included: all crockery, cutlery, saucepans, serving platters, implements, glassware etc
Miscellaneous Equipment
  • Scuba and Snorkel Gear: Complete set of Scuba gear including 2 air tanks, large selection of masks, snorkels, fins etc
  • Fishing Equipment: 2 x rods and complete set of tackle
  • Fresh Water Supply: Capacity 920L. There are 3 freshwater tanks any one of which can be accessed using a 12V Shurflo 2088-414-934 pump (spare pump wired and plumbed in situ) or an auxiliary foot pump. System includes Jabsco1L accumulator Model 30573-0000 and dual filtration.
  • A Sensus 62015C volumetric meter (2014) measures water consumed
  • Heads: Master – Raritan Atlantes A5F12 can discharge into holding tank or directly overboard. Guest – Sealand Vacuuflush Model 1006 discharges into own holding tank
  • Air Vents: There are two air vents on the foredeck, the port one providing air to the master cabin and the starboard one to the guest cabin
  • Solar Air Vents: There are two solar air vents located in the saloon, two in the PilotHouse and one in guest head
  • Washing Machine / Dryer: Splendide 2000 Model WD802M
  • Vacuum Cleaners: 110V house unit and 12 V Shopvac unit
  • Bathroom scales: Felix Onore (2010)
  • BBQ: Custom-built stainless steel (2010), cockpit mounted with Stamoid cover utilising same LPG tanks as Stove
  • Scanner / Copier: Canon Canoscan LiDE 30
  • Label Maker: Brother Model PT-65
  • Dehumidifyer: Philco PDH-520HB (2013) 320W, free standing with Stamoid storage cover
  • Safe: Hidden, combination locked
  • Flags: Comprehensive set of country flags including Q, Turkey, Greece, Italy, Montenegro, Albania, Croatia, New Zealand
  • Chairs: 2 x cockpit plastic chairs, 1 x cockpit small folding table, 4 x folding deck chairs
  • Passarelle: Custom made with remote control for operation from boom winch
  • Mosquito proofing: Custom screens on PilotHouse doors, both doors to master cabin (2014) and six saloon windows (2014)
  • Shopping Trolley: 1 (2014)
  • Heavy duty trolley: 1 collapsible
  • Fender Boards: 1 large plank which can also be used as gang plank plus 2 smaller boards
  • Fenders: 2 x large round Hercules, 2 x very long, 1 x “fat boy”, 7 x regular shape large. All with covers. Several smaller fenders for RHIBs
  • Fender tyres: 4 x car tyres set up for immediate use as fenders for tough conditions
  • Tools: Extensive selection of power and hand tools mostly listed in Inventory Manual
  • Spare Parts: Extensive selection listed in Inventory Manual
  • Chandlery: Extensive selection of most imaginable items

The combo washer / dryer is inset in the stairway leading from the pilothouse to the guest cabin. The deep freeze is located just forward and out of picture
Rigging and Canvas Covers
  • Canvas covers for Nautica tender, cockpit sun awning, boat deck winch, boom winches, engine room vents and vents in smokestack. Full waterproof cover for deck and topsides custom designed and built in 2008 using Wolmix pvc coated polyester
  • Sun shade covers for PilotHouse windshield and saloon windows
  • 4 x custom made Stomoid large volume deck storage bags (in addition to four fixed waterproof GRP storage boxes)
Please contact owner Laurie Cranfield – or tel: +64 21 939440 for pricing and answers to questions.


Envoy is berthed in Greece’s Lefkas Marina while Diane and are home in Auckland. We’re not planning any major Med cruising this year, but hope to visit Lefkas around mid August to check on Envoy and cruise until end October.
Pacific Passagemaker magazine recently published an article we’d written on anchoring in strong winds.
Here’s the second of two parts of an edited version of that article.
So Part One has put our vessel into a suitable bay for anchoring.
Much is written about different anchors and their supposed advantages but provided your vessel has a recognised mainstream type of anchor your security will be determined more by your anchoring technique including the weight of chain you have on the seabed.
This article assumes your vessel has totally adequate ground tackle and that is a whole subject in itself. Our main anchor is a 40 kg (88 pound) Delta Setfast with 400 feet of 10.8mm BBB chain and having anchored nearly 2,000 times can only recall Envoy dragging anchor twice (once of which was during a non-forecast 60 knot wind).
A commonly used method to calculate the required length of chain is to add the maximum expected water depth at high tide to the distance from the anchor roller to the water and then multiply that figure by five, six or seven times depending on the conditions. However this formula doesn’t work so well in very shallow water or deep water. I prefer to allow for the depth of water plus 30-40 metres of chain on the bottom.

We rarely go into harbours or marinas as it’s too expensive when living aboard

In very strong winds we lay out as much chain as possible, even up to ten times total depth while keeping in mind the proximity of other vessels and the consequences of a wind shift. Of course you must be able to monitor how much chain you are paying out using a chain counter or marks on the chain (we use coloured cable ties).
Our anchoring technique is to very slowly motor upwind and stop in the position where we want our anchor to sit, pay out chain until the anchor is almost to the bottom and then give a short burst of reverse thrust so that Envoymoves astern no faster than the speed at which chain is paying out. We don’t advocate allowing the anchor chain to free-fall until the anchor is on the bottom and reverse movement has commenced as chain can otherwise become tangled around the anchor while it’s dropping. However once the anchor is on the bottom, free falling the chain does save wear on the windlass motor. In our experience and observations of other vessels, if too much reverse power is applied immediately on laying the anchor it will often result in dragging the anchor along the bottom, particularly if the bottom is mud or covered in weed. We prefer to first give the anchor time to settle onto the bottom and dig in properly. We then observe whether the vessel is holding and if all is OK after about 15 minutes we motor forward about half the distance of the chain length and then let the vessel drift back with the wind. The anchor will fully dig in when it stops the vessel’s backwards drift and then we apply a little reverse thrust to ensure the anchor holds. When the vessel “bounces back” on its rope rode you know it’s holding.

Envoy in superb Zaklopalica, Croatia

In strong winds it is important to use a heavy duty and longer than usual anchor rode to act as a good spring. We set this up with the snubbing fitting just below water level and with several feet of chain hanging on the vessel side of the fitting to add to the spring effect. Now we record our GPS position and activate our anchor and depth alarms to monitor any dragging.
If depth, water temperature and visibility allow we check the anchor using a mask and snorkel to ensure the anchor is well set and not obstructed.
We then make preparations for the coming blow, ensuring all gear on deck is securely lashed down, buffers are readily available in case of another vessel dragging into ours, and that we are able to drop or cut the anchor chain with a buoy in an emergency. 
If there are other vessels nearby we put our buffers in position. 
We prefer to leave our tender in the water in case it’s needed, but secure it well close behind Envoy’sstern. Never leave a lightweight tender on its painter behind your vessel in a strong wind as you may lose it or it may flip upside down.

Secure at anchor in Croatia’s Loviste

Now is a good time to think what may happen if there is a significant wind shift or a need to move. Check the anchorage using radar and plotter during daylight to know exactly how it looks, because everything looks very different by night. It’s also a good idea for the skipper to get some sleep during the daytime when others can more easily monitor and handle any situation.
Before darkness arrives rig your spotlights, have flashlights to hand, turn the radar on standby, and ensure the engine is ready to start in case of any emergency arising, such as the need to avoid a dragging vessel, or the need to reduce strain on the anchor in very high gusts. As skipper, I also sleep in the pilot house so that I can constantly monitor the situation and react quickly.
When the strong wind arrives it’s usual to see sheets of spray lifted off the surface of the water and wind waves up to about two or three feet, even in a sheltered bay with little fetch.
Sometimes your vessel will appear to drag a few metres as the chain straightens out along the seabed, so don’t be in too much of a hurry to move if the position alarm sounds.
Of course there is usually some trepidation and a need to maintain a state of high alert, but by following the above procedures we’ve safely and comfortably anchored though many blows.
We’ve never encountered winds above 70 knots and realise that circumstances may be very different in winds of for example 90 knots or more.
The “strength” of wind does not increase in a linear way relative to wind speed, but dramatically more so as the square of the difference. For example to compare the strength of a 40 knot wind with a 20 knot wind:
20 knots squared = 400
40 knots squared = 1600
So a 40 knot wind is 4 times as strong as a 20 knot wind.
Similarly a 90 knot wind is nearly twice the strength of a 70 knot wind.
We’ll be happy not to experience trying to anchor in those conditions.
Happy and safe anchoring.


Envoy is berthed in Greece’s Lefkas Marina while Diane and are home in Auckland. We’re not planning any major Med cruising this year, but now hope to visit Lefkas around mid August to check on Envoy and do a few weeks cruising.
Pacific Passagemaker magazine recently published an article we’d written on anchoring in strong winds.
Here’s the first of two parts of an edited version of that article.
Having done extensive coastal cruising for over 35 years in New Zealand, Australia, and the Mediterranean, we’ve anchored for literally thousands of nights, most of which have been calm, peaceful and uneventful. But we’ve often encountered winds over 30 knots (Beaufort Force 7), and occasionally encountered gusts up to 70 knots. Remember that the Beaufort Scale registers the mean wind speed, for example Force 7 represents a mean wind speed of 28-33 knots, while gusts of up to about 45 knots (or greater) can be expected. Adverse weather conditions and fronts can also bring along thunder storms, which are often accompanied by extremely gusty conditions as well as rapid changes in wind direction. It is probably these changes in direction that represent the biggest challenge to secure anchoring.

There are almost as many theories on the subject of anchoring as there are skippers on the water and these suggestions are mostly based on experience with our Nordhavn 46 trawler, Envoy
With time to prepare, a reliable and tested plan plus some anchoring experience with your own vessel, you can select a suitable location and anchor in strong winds with safety and confidence.
The process starts with awareness and normally there’s a period of at least several hours to prepare for arrival of the forecast adverse conditions. Always write down the forecast and subsequent updates so you can accurately monitor how the weather pattern is developing.

In an unexpected storm a serene anchorage can quickly become problematic

This article does not cover the options of continuing a passage (as may be forced upon a vessel far from the coast), or of heading to the closest secure marina or harbour, but is about safe anchoring in a coastal situation.
A safe and comfortable anchorage is dependent on finding an inlet or bay largely protected from the ocean swell and seas. If the wind is forecast to blow directly off the coastal shoreline and there is no significant swell or sea, an option is to simply anchor close to shore, but a major disadvantage of this strategy is the possibility of a wind shift occurring and placing your vessel on a lee shore with waves whipped up by the wind shift. We prefer to pick the most secure anchorage we can find, free of swell or seas, suitable for a possible wind shift and clear of reefs, rocks, moorings or other obstructions. It needs a low tide depth ideally about three to fifteen metres and ideally should also have an easily navigable exit and a nearby alternative bolthole to go to if necessary. The ideal time to find your anchorage is during low tide when minimum depths are known and possible hazards can be more easily identified.

An ideal sheltered bay to weather a blow

This is the same bay during a storm with gusts to 50 knots

Another issue to consider is the placement of other vessels in the anchorage. A safe distance from other vessels must be maintained when anchoring in strong winds because other vessels dragging and fouling your anchor or hitting your vessel is usually the greatest danger to be faced.

Heavy towering clouds like this indicate storms

Before dropping your anchor it‘s a good idea to explore the general area and get a good understanding of its approaches, layout, depths etc. Use this opportunity to record GPS positions, compass courses and a chart plotter track line to assist exiting the bay in case of adverse visibility.
Although some skippers prefer to use two anchors we prefer to use one. A single anchor is easier to deploy and set, avoids issues of one anchor chain becoming twisted around the other during wind shifts when your vessel may turn around several times and is far easier to retrieve in an emergency.
However a situation where I would consider using two anchors is mooring stern-to-shore when the additional anchor helps resist your bow being blown sideways by beam winds (the main cause of problems when mooring stern-to).
Part two will be posted in about a week.


Envoy is berthed in Greece’s Lefkas Marina while Diane and are home in Auckland. We’re not planning any Med cruising this year.

The recent tragic loss of British Volvo Ocean Race competitor John Fisher should have reminded all cruisers of the dangers involved in falling overboard and here are some thoughts on dealing with these situations based on my experiences over many years both as a cruiser and as a Coastguard skipper, crew member and search and rescue controller.
Man overboard situations can range from the hilarious, when friends fall overboard in anchorages with no harm done except to their pride, to the horribly tragic where the victim doesn’t survive. 
In some of the latter situations it has been the skipper going over and the crew left aboard not having the knowledge to turn their vessel around and conduct a search, particularly in the case of sailing vessels. 
Even some cases of people falling overboard in marinas or at anchor have ended tragically either as a result of injury causing the victim to drown, or the inability of the victim to haul himself/herself out of the water, or the inability of those aboard to haul the victim out of the water. In these cases exposure and hypothermia are often the cause of death.

Safety Briefings
I’m sure we’re all guilty of this at times – it’s a beautiful day and our friends arrive on board with fun foremost in mind. We tell them how to use the heads but that vital safety briefing about life jackets, fire extinguishers, first aid kits and man overboard drill is forgotten. 
Even some professionals overlook this; I’ve been out on a weekend commercial fishing charter and noticed there was no safety briefing of any kind. In reality this may not be too much of a problem provided that the skipper’s there to take charge of an emergency, but who’s going to take charge and handle a situation where the skipper is the victim?
So during a safety briefing it’s essential to cover the basics of responding to a man overboard situation.
This starts with prevention and no crew member should venture onto the foredeck, side decks or boarding platform while the vessel is under way without the skipper’s prior knowledge and then he/she should be under constant observation and wearing a lifejacket or personal flotation device (PFD) equipped with light, whistle and personal locator beacon (PLB).
Anyone observing someone falling in should immediately shout loudly “man overboard”, make sure they’ve been heard and continue to keep their eyes on the victim as well as pointing to him/her because if the observer is distracted it may prove difficult to re-establish visual contact. 
Somebody must throw a life ring or some other flotation device such as a large fender into the water serving not only to potentially support the victim in the water but to mark his/her approximate position. This should be done even if the victim can’t be seen as it will mark one limit of the search area.
The briefing also needs to appoint someone to take charge of the vessel should it be the skipper who goes overboard and then to make sure that person knows how to respond in terms of controlling the vessel and managing the situation.

Managing a man overboard situation
You can divide these emergencies into two categories, that is where you can and can’t see the victim.

1. You can see the victim:
The more competent people you have aboard the easier it is to manage this and provided that it’s a crew member overboard (not the skipper) and that visual contact is maintained a speedy resolution is likely.
Unless it’s completely obvious the victim will be safely recovered within a very few minutes a distress call (Mayday) should be made on VHF radio’s international distress frequency channel 16, particularly if there are other circumstances like rough conditions, cold water or the victim may need medical attention. There’s no doubt it’s always a much better decision to transmit a distress call sooner than may be needed and cancel it after a successful resolution than to wish you had made it when the situation starts to go horribly wrong. Ideally you then need a crew member to handle the radio traffic since the responding coast station and responding vessels will divert your attention from the immediate task of picking up the victim. Many coast stations seem to have a system that requires answers to lots of questions, many of which seem irrelevent and time wasting at this crucial point when every minute counts. 
If other crew members are available they could be directed to eyeball the victim, prepare a flotation device with a line attached for use in recovering the victim and a fit person could don a PFD and be ready to enter the water if the victim needs assistance (which is often the case). 
It is normal to approach the victim from leeward so that the vessel isn’t driven by wind and waves over the victim and when recovering the victim make sure there is no risk of injury from the vessel’s propeller(s).
2.You can’t see the victim
This is always an extremely serious situation and you should immediately record your lat/long, activate the MOB button on your chart plotter and make a VHF radio distress call. 
The complexity of the ensuing search depends on whether it’s day or night time, weather conditions. general visibility, sea state and current, tidal flow, whether the victim was wearing a lifejacket or PFD with light and/or personal locator beacon (PLB), elapsed time since last sighting, whether a constant course has been kept since then and your distance from assisting resources such as dedicated rescue craft and helicopters. These resources generally carry search aids such as night vision binoculars, powerful spotlights and thermal detection equipment, greatly increasing the chances of finding a victim.
Rescue helicopters can also drop flotation devices to the victim, put a rescue swimmer in the water, lift the victim from the water, provide paramedic assistance and transport the victim quickly to hospital.
Once a coast radio station has responded to your distress call they will take responsibility for organising the search or pass this responsibility to another competent authority, for example Police, Coastguard or a Rescue Coordination Centre (in New Zealand this is RCCNZ). This task is much better accomplished by such an organisation using a stable platform with all the information resources on hand and experience in managing such situations. 
Using the facts you provide they will then establish an area of probability and direct both your own and other responding vessels on how to conduct the search. This takes time and depending on your location it will also take time for responding resources (pleasure craft, commercial craft, rescue vessels, helicopters etc) to reach you.
While waiting it would be a good idea to organise your available crew as for the first example and proceed slowly (e.g. about 5 knots) to search on a reciprocal course, for example if you were cruising to the west on a course of 270d, now proceed to the east on a course of 90d. If conditions allow you may be able to listen for your victim calling out for help.
More than likely you have a GPS plotter which will be displaying your original course line. 
Now follow that exact course back. Depending on your own knowledge you may decide to adjust this course for tide and current. In any case ensure you keep a record of the area searched.
If the victim has a PLB remember that its lat/long is transmitted to the rescue authority (in New Zealand RCCNZ), not to you and they will direct the nearest resource to that position.
Remember that victims can survive a surprisingly long time in the water so keep searching and don’t give up hope.

Look for a further posting in about 10 days.


Envoy is berthed in Greece’s Lefkas Marina and we’re home in Auckland. We don’t plan to cruise aboard Envoy this year.
This is the last part of an article we wrote published in Australasia’s Pacific PassageMaker magazine about starting the live-aboard cruising life.
What equipment is desirable for the live-aboard boat
Bear in mind the cruising experience is the thing – it’s what you do with your boat that will make this experience, not whether it’s 43ft or 46ft, whether it has teak or GRP decks or a particular brand of navigation equipment.
Having said that, we’re assuming readers of this article aspire to a reasonable level of comfort as opposed to camping on the sea.

Envoy’s master bedroom – we don’t just camp on the sea but live rather well aboard

A live-aboard vessel often cruises beyond the easy reach of regular service and spare parts providers and bearing in mind the boating adage that everything that can go wrong will eventually go wrong she needs to be engineered for maximum reliability with redundancy of systems and a well-planned inventory of chandlery, tools, key spare parts as well as an operation manual and documentation covering equipment carried aboard. Even if (like me) you’re not an engineer, you can generally get assistance with problems if you have the necessary tools, parts and information.

Envoy’s pilothouse has all the manuals needed to run and maintain the vessel

Fuel supply
Most diesel engine problems are fuel-related so this is an area to pay particular attention. Boats have a primary (before engine) fuel filter, and a secondary (on engine) filter. You can enhance this by having a system for filtering (or “polishing”) fuel into one tank (often known as a “day tank”) which will then supply the primary filter(s) and run the engine(s). This tank is kept reasonably full from the storage tanks using the polishing system and also accepts the filtered return fuel from the engine(s).
Envoy for example has a Racor-based polishing system which filters about 10 litres/minute through a 2 micron cartridge and in 10 years of ownership we’ve not encountered any kind of fuel contamination.
Large capacity dual primary filters able to be interchanged under way and fitted with a vacuum gauge and moisture detector will also help minimise problems.
Fuel tanks should have generous-sized removable inspection ports to allow periodic cleaning if required.

Envoy’s fuel manifold controls diesel filtration ensuring a clean fuel supply

A generator is desirable so that power is available when anchored for long periods.
The house battery bank should be deep cycle with sufficient amp hour capacity for the equipment carried. The start bank should not be deep cycle and dedicated to starting the engines. Both banks should have isolating switches and the banks should be connectable using a parallel switch in case of low voltage in the start bank.
All circuits should be protected using circuit breakers. Having an electrical circuit diagram is a big advantage.
Other desirable equipment is a high capacity engine alternator with a “smart” regulating system, a battery charger able to operate from both generator and shorepower and an inverter to produce AC from the house bank.

Envoy’s 150 amp Balmar alternator

Ground tackle
To anchor in remote areas, sometimes in adverse weather it’s essential to have a main anchor, spare anchors, all-chain rode and windlass appropriate to the size of vessel with a minimum of 100 metres of chain. Do not compromise in this area.

Water and sewage
Potable water is often not readily available overseas so ample fresh water storage is required, preferably in more than one tank. Sewage holding tanks are essential and it’s a good idea to have a diverting valve on your head which can either discharge sewage directly into the sea when well offshore, or into the holding tank when close to shore.

 A stove with at least three burners is desirable together with a medium sized oven. We prefer lpg to electric so that we don’t need to run a generator to use the stove. Diane says our microwave is nice to have, but not necessary.

Envoy’s stove and oven

An effective high storage capacity refrigerator and freezer is essential – you’ve got to keep the beer cold! I don’t advocate refrigeration powered solely from the house battery as refrigeration generally causes by far the largest current draw and these systems are always chasing battery charge. Our system uses AC from the generator.

Stabilisers are highly desirable for a displacement monohull vessel and we recommend as a minimum having paravane (passive) stabilisers. Although these are not pretty they are very robust and reliable and with this system you can also use flopper-stoppers to reduce roll when anchored. Hydraulic (active) stabilisers are more effective, but expensive to maintain and prone to occasional failure while most hydraulic systems don’t help at anchor. Envoy has both of these systems.
Gyro systems are also highly effective, but less common and generally found on larger vessels.

Safety equipment
Of course you must ensure the vessel has, or will be equipped with all obvious safety equipment including an approved self-inflating liferaft if venturing offshore.

Many live-aboard vessels have large heavy tenders, which are only able to be launched or retrieved in calm conditions using a boom winch or a hoist. Our 3.7m RHIB with 25hp outboard is excellent, but we also value our much lighter 2.7m RHIB with a 2.3hp outboard, able to be launched by hand. Remember that for most coastal cruising vessels the tender is the liferaft so should be well-equipped and easily launched.

Your tender generally doubles as liferaft in coastal cruising – we carry two

Air conditioning and heating
Although Envoy has reverse cycle air conditioning we rarely use it as to work effectively all doors, windows and portholes need to be closed and the engine or generator needs to be running. Heating options need to be considered if wintering afloat in cold conditions.

It’s so inconvenient and expensive to get laundry done when cruising that we regard a washing machine as essential. It will soon pay for itself in saved laundry costs and remember that the first mate has to be happy too!

Surveying your vessel and final negotiations
Unless you are a boat builder or similarly qualified it’s essential to engage a qualified surveyor (who acts for and is paid by the buyer). This applies to all pre-owned vessels, but should also be considered for new vessels as these are not immune from poor practice. Surveyors not only have considerable technical expertise, but follow a logical documented process for a thorough examination of the vessel and are totally objective whereas the excited buyer might overlook or downplay some negative issues. A recent survey is also helpful when insuring your vessel.

Now enjoy your vessel
Before heading to sea for the first time spend a few days thoroughly familiarising yourselves with your vessel. Know where all equipment is stowed, how it works, where the different seacocks are etc.


Envoy is berthed in Greece’s Lefkas Marina and we’re home in Auckland. Circumstances prevent us returning to cruise in the Med this year.

This is the third part of an article we wrote published in Australasia’s Pacific PassageMaker magazine about starting the live-aboard cruising life.
From the last two articles you understand life’s time clock is ticking so do it now rather than later.
Also that most potential cruisers face some fears and how to overcome them as well as dealing with some of the practical issues that need to be considered.
The new and pre-owned boat market still favours buyers and there is ample choice available.
Most types of boat are suited to cruising the Med – we even met one German couple living on a six metre outboard-powered trailer boat which had cruised all the way from Germany down the Rhine and Danube rivers to the Black Sea and Turkey, then through the Dardanelles, across the Aegean Sea and through the Gulf of Corinth to Greece’s Ionian Sea. 

Happy guitar playing skipper with his six metre live-aboard

However the majority of live-aboards are found on sailing yachts or catamarans, mostly up to about 14 metres. 

Generally the ideal vessel is the smallest one that will suit all of your needs. The larger vessel you have the greater will be the capital costs, the repairs and maintenance, fuel, insurance, berthage etc. In addition larger vessels are more restricted when it comes to what anchorages and harbours they can enter. From our observations many vessels over about 55 ft have some full time crew and in fact we see many boats well under that size professionally skippered and/or crewed.
 Bigger isn’t necessarily better – this vessel uses about 700 litres/hr of diesel compared with Envoy’s 8 litres/hr
We opted to buy a heavy displacement monohulled passagemaker to provide future options for long-range cruising and after visiting Nordhavn in Dana Point decided on a 46, which in our view still has the best sleek and classic lines without the slightly “top-heavy” appearance of some subsequent models.

The N46 has sleek classic lines

But everybody’s tastes are different so do your own research by reading, visiting cruisers’ blogs, checking out different boats and talking with live-aboard cruisers.
Consider the location of vessels for sale relative to your intended cruising area. We wanted to use our boat in the Med so primarily looked at vessels located in Europe, in 2006 buying Envoy which had participated in the Atlantic Rally and was then located in Ostia, Italy.
Allied to the location issue is the complex one of port of registry, particularly if local taxes haven’t been paid. Envoy was USA registered with EU VAT unpaid and we changed her to New Zealand registered so she can remain in EU waters up to 18 months at a time without paying VAT. Before 18 months expires it’s only necessary to leave EU waters for a few days (the actual period is not defined) to re-set the 18 month clock, which can be extended by placing your vessel in Customs bond while wintering over. However specialist advice should be obtained for each set of circumstances ensuring the vessel is unencumbered and that correct documentary procedures are followed to minimise liabilities.
Familiarise yourself with other relevant regulations such as the Schengen Treaty which currently limits visits by New Zealand passport holders to three months in each treaty member country and most other non EU passport holders to three months total in all member countries (most EU countries are members). Of course if you hold an EU passport you won’t face this time restriction.
Turkey, Croatia and Albania require cruisers to use agents for clearing-in and out. Even where this is not required it’s a good idea to use agents as they have useful contacts and may be able to offer advice on extending your stay and minimising your obligations.
Spend some time with the boat’s previous owner to gain detailed knowledge of its operation, systems, maintenance and spare parts requirements. 

Should I buy new or pre-owned?
Some owners prefer taking delivery of a brand new vessel for the pleasure of specifying a vessel suited exactly to their requirements; having a choice of engineering, layout, equipment brands and furnishings; having a manufacturer’s warranty and benefiting from lower maintenance costs.
However people purchasing new in expectation of having no problems are often disappointed as many new boats seem to need quite a few miles cruising and some months to resolve initial teething issues. How well such issues are eventually resolved depends on the commitment of the manufacturer and to some extent how far you are away from their home base.
Other buyers prefer to purchase a pre-owned vessel for the benefits of immediate availability (there is generally a wait for new vessels), lower investment cost, lower initial depreciation cost and the fact that she’s tried and tested with more equipment, spare parts, tools, chandlery, bedding, galley utensils etc included in the price.

Should I buy direct or use a broker?
The majority of pre-owned boats are listed with brokers. An experienced broker can provide valuable assistance in finding the ideal boat for your circumstances and negotiating a deal with the seller. The seller pays the broker’s commission so there’s no disadvantage for the buyer.
If you are not using a reputable broker be very cautious about paying money without robust safeguards in place as buyers have been known to transfer significant sums to scammers posing as vendors.

In a week we’ll publish the last part of this article dealing with equipment desirable for cruising.


Envoy is berthed in Greece’s Lefkas Marina and we’re home in Auckland. Unfortunately circumstances prevent us returning to cruise in the Med this year.
This is the second part of an article we wrote published in Australasia’s Pacific PassageMaker magazine about starting the live-aboard cruising life.
OK from Part 1 we realise life’s time clock is ticking and we’ve faced the common fears. 
Once we decide to live the cruising life there are numerous practical issues to consider mostly falling somewhere into these categories:
Envoy anchored in Vathi, Astypaelia

How long will you be away each yearthe vast majority of cruisers (power and sail) see little point in sitting out the whole of their cruising region’s winter in a marina, particularly after doing it once, so they mostly return home to see their families and friends.An exception to this is that many European cruisers prefer the kinder winter weather in a location like the Med to that in their own country.

It’s great fun to be in a harbour or marina but we choose not to spend the whole winter there

How many years will you cruise forthe short answer is as long as you are enjoying it and health, funds and other circumstances permit. About five years would be typical and we’ve rarely met cruisers who’ve lived aboard for more than ten.

Dependent familymost of the cruising community are in the age group mid-50s to mid-70s without school-age children and cruisers living aboard with children are rare. When we started cruising we each had an elderly parent who accepted we were living our lives to the full, appreciated our weekly phone call and enjoyed our home visits.

Family and Friends – ofcourse you miss your family and close friends, but some may be able to visit you and share in your cruising experience. Otherwise being able to see them for at least one period of a few months during the year keeps these relationships intact.

Your family and friends can visit to share your adventures

Workmost cruisers we meet are semi or completely retired. Some do consulting work remotely or are able to find some casual work if they choose to. A fewer number of younger cruisers take time out from the work force intending to rejoin it later.

Your homesome cruisers elect to sell their house to provide funds for cruising while most others rent it out, get house sitters or leave it vacant.

Compatibility and confidence – some people may speculate you won’t get on well together as a couple spending so much time in the confines of a boat. Only you will know if this is correct or not and we probably all know people where this lifestyle would be doomed to failure. Allied to this issue is one partner having a lack of confidence in the other’s ability. If you’re passionate you’re half way there and your confidence will grow through sharing experiences together.

Healtha reasonable but not perfect standard of general health and fitness is required for the live-aboard life reinforcing the case for starting the cruising life sooner than later. Travel insurance is essential as medical treatment can be extremely expensive overseas.

PetsOverseas regulations concerning transportation and quarantine of pets are less strict than in New Zealand or Australia and some cruisers take their pets along. Similarly there are fewer restrictions on pets on beaches and in restaurants and cafes. Diane and I always had a dog or cat at home and loved them dearly, but prefer to avoid the hassles of having a pet aboard a boat.

Comfort aboard – this will of course vary by vessel. When yachtsmen come aboard Envoy they are amazed at the living space available compared to sailing vessels of the same length. We don’t get wet, cold or wind-blown and with our stabilisers Envoy’s motion is rarely lively enough to spill a coffee.

Comfort isn’t an issue aboard a well-found cruising boat – Envoy’s dinette and galley viewed from astern
Capital and living costs – the size, age and condition of your vessel determines its capital cost. Remember that bigger isn’t always better as larger vessels have dearer insurance, berthage and maintenance costs and can’t get into some of the smaller anchorages and harbours. Living costs such as food, beverages, household supplies and personal spending are about the same for us while cruising as when at home. Maintenance is dearer due to the higher cost of parts and greater distances travelled. There is also the cost of travel to and from our boat and additional fuel for the longer distances cruised. Casual marina prices are high in the Med so the best option is to anchor wherever possible, which is always free. Excluding living costs repairs and maintenance have been our largest cost averaging about six per cent of Envoy’s estimated value each year. Diane and I look at this not as “cost” but “investment in fun”.
Read PART 3 in about a week.


Envoy is berthed in Greece’s Lefkas Marina and we’re home in Auckland. 
Unfortunately circumstances prevent us returning to cruise in the Med this year.
We recently wrote an article published in Pacific PassageMaker magazine about starting the live-aboard cruising life. Over the next few weeks we’ll be psting this article to our Blog in several parts.
The live-aboard life isn’t for everyone; there are many competent, dedicated weekend cruisers who wouldn’t want to spend more time at sea than ashore. But for those who have the live-aboard passion there is generally nothing to stop you. 
As famed cruiser and circumnavigator Scott Flanders advises, “tick…tick…tick… the clock is ticking, get the picture … do it now!” 
Regardless of whatever your future dream life happens to be if you can’t literally do it now, at least make a plan now and work towards achieving it.

Plan your dreams now – Envoy moored by Bodrum’s castle, Turkey

When I turned 50 I expected to have about 20 good summers left, meaning that barring major illnesses or accidents I expected to enjoy our cruising passion until I was about 70 years old. 

Now I’m nearly 68 and believe most people could enjoy live-aboard cruising into their mid-70s.
The main issue which could prevent this is health. Whatever the upper age limit may be one thing’s for sure – you certainly don’t meet many cruisers in their 80s.
Here’s a little exercise to help you visualise how many good summers you have left. Take a tape measure showing inches and stretch it out. Note where 75 inches is representing age 75 and where your age is (e.g. age 60 would be 60 inches). The sobering message is the huge length of tape up to 60 inches represents your life up to now and the short length of tape from your age to 75 (or thereabouts) represents the time you have left to do relatively demanding things like live-aboard cruising.
We had cruised extensively during weekends and holidays and dreamed of enjoying great destinations until we tired of them rather than meeting timetables. We had adult children living overseas, no health issues and wanted to cruise while circumstances permitted. Experience wasn’t an issue and we’d always worked well as a team on four power boats we’d owned during 30 years to that time.
After two years’ planning we bought our Nordhavn 46 Passagemaker, Envoy, in 2006 and I took a year’s leave of absence from work so we could live-aboard during 2007. Then I went back to work leaving Envoy in a Turkish marina for two years before retiring in early 2010 at age 59.

Envoy on the hard stand at Maramaris, Turkey

By the time I reached the “traditional” retirement age of 65 we’d enjoyed six years of the live-aboard life and now we’ve had eight cruising in exotic places like Greece, Turkey, Italy, Albania, Croatia, Montenegro as well as hundreds of surrounding islands.

Something you wouldn’t see while boating in New Zealand

The live-aboard life doesn’t have to involve crossing oceans and we’ve cruised over 16,000 miles in the Med rarely being over 40 miles from the nearest land. There are thousands of people living aboard all manner of boats in various parts of the world enjoying adventurous coastal cruising. While it’s a great feeling to have a boat that is ocean-capable a large number of cruisers elect to ship even these vessels aboard purpose-built freighters rather than traverse the oceans on their own hulls and the two options are considered to be similar in cost.
Scott Flanders wrote an excellent article in 2011 outlining potential cruisers’ common concerns and some solutions. This is equally valid today.

Experience levelseveryone starts somewhere so take small steps first and learn from your mistakes. Coastguard and the Royal Yachting Association run excellent courses to gain practical and theoretical skills and as most countries require some evidence of proficiency when clearing-in it’s a good idea to gain some certifications.

Mechanical abilityit isn’t the big things that fail and you will learn to deal with handling the smaller problems. Most countries have competent mechanical assistance available. Carry a comprehensive range of tools, spare parts, equipment manuals and chandlery aboard.

Most technical issues can be easily resolved – in Marmaris we had the stabiliser through-hull seals replaced

Handling rough seasbecomes easier with practice and although this is a concern for many one study reports 80 per cent of the time wave heights are less than 3.7m explaining how many cruisers travel thousands of ocean miles over many years rarely if ever encountering dangerous seas. 
Navigationis not difficult with today’s electronic equipment. Sextants are long gone and this is an area where courses will greatly assist.
Seasicknessmany cruisers start off getting seasick but wean themselves out of it and medications can assist.

Weather and tidesthere is ample reliable information for coastal cruising while offshore cruisers often pay for professional forecasting. The internet hugely improves forecast availability. There is negligible tide in the Med.

Manoeuvring and dockingpractice makes perfect, but don’t worry about minor scratches on your gelcoat – they won’t ruin a great experience. A bow thruster will greatly assist docking.

Another concern is piracy off the north-east coast of Africa making it dangerous to traverse these waters. Circumnavigators who include the Med in their route mostly ship their boats across the Indian Ocean. Piracy is not a major issue in other waters and the website www.noonsite.comprovides regular updates.

Read PART 2 in about a week.