Trawler Blogs

 March 16, 2023 – Cruising the North Atlantic towards Devils Island

By 0500 we had crossed the Barre Norte and altered course to the north towards the Salvation or Safety Islands (Iles du Salut), the location in French Guiana of the infamous Devils Island penal colony.  The Salvation Islands lie offshore from Kourous, close to the European Space Agency’s spaceport.  We would be close enough to see a launch if one were scheduled, but sadly, none are.

March 17, 2023 – Devils Island, French Guiana

Devils Island was a French penal colony which remained in use from 1852-1952.  It is located some 10 NM offshore from Kourous.  More than 56,000 prisoners, mostly male were imprisoned over the course of it’s existence, with more than 90% dying.  The prison actually was on three islands, Ile Royale which was the administrative center and where most prisoners were located, Ile Sainte Joseph, where the solitary confinement cells were located, and Devils Island (Ile du Diable), where the most known inmate, Frenchman Albert Dreyfus, wrongly accused of treason, spent 4 years in solitary confinement.  Very few people escaped, since the island group, known as “The Salvation Islands” or Iles du Salut, has treacherous currents and the waters are shark infested.  In addition, all trees were cut down to prevent prisoners from making rafts.  Prisoners who died were thrown into the sea to ensure the sharks remained close to the islands.  The cemetery contains only guards and their families.  The 1973 and 2017 films “Papillon” dramatized the story of one successful escapee, whose story is now being questioned, since French Archives, recently opened, do not show he was ever on Devils Island.

Today the trees have regrown and Ile Royale boasts a hotel located in the former administrative center and campground on the main square.  There is ferry service to the mainland.  No visitors are allowed on Devils Island, but we will take zodiacs to Ile Sainte Joseph and tenders to Ile Royale.  Ile Royale is better preserved and restored, with extensive signage explaining what is still present.  The island has a large church and a post office, only for residents.  There are two swimming areas constructed by the prisoners, one for guards and one for prisoners.  People were swimming in both and camping in some of the buildings, with hammocks covered with netting slung from the ceilings.  Viewing the partially restored cells, including those on death row was sobering.  The guillotine that was used for executions has been removed.

One of the solitary confinement cells on Ile Royale

Grim solitary confinement

Prisoners swimming area – Ile Royale

Soiltary Confinement house for Albert Dreyfus on Ile du Diable

Interior of Church – decorated by prisoners

Some of the prisoner paintings in church

Church on Ile Royale

Ile Saint Joseph is in a natural state of decay, with trees growing up through the buildings and the 150 solitary confinement cells.  Many of the cells only had bars for a roof, so the prisoners were exposed to the elements all the time.  In another few decades, it will be difficult to even see the crumbling ruins underneath the tropical vegetation.  There is a small group of buildings still used by the French military and off limits to the public.

Interior of Solitary confinement cells

One of the many corridors for the 150 solitary confinement cells

The prison looks better from the outside, Ile Saint Joseph

Many of the cells only had bars for a roof, open to elements

This stairwell to the cells was the last open air many prisoners had as they experienced “hell on earth”

 

Ile du Diable, where the solitary confinement building housing Alfred Dreyfus from 1895-99, is off limits to all visitors, although the building has been preserved and can be photographed from Ile Royale.

 

 

 March 16, 2023 – Cruising the North Atlantic towards Devils Island

By 0500 we had crossed the Barre Norte and altered course to the north towards the Salvation or Safety Islands (Iles du Salut), the location in French Guiana of the infamous Devils Island penal colony.  The Salvation Islands lie offshore from Kourous, close to the European Space Agency’s spaceport.  We would be close enough to see a launch if one were scheduled, but sadly, none are.

March 17, 2023 – Devils Island, French Guiana

Devils Island was a French penal colony which remained in use from 1852-1952.  It is located some 10 NM offshore from Kourous.  More than 56,000 prisoners, mostly male were imprisoned over the course of it’s existence, with more than 90% dying.  The prison actually was on three islands, Ile Royale which was the administrative center and where most prisoners were located, Ile Sainte Joseph, where the solitary confinement cells were located, and Devils Island (Ile du Diable), where the most known inmate, Frenchman Albert Dreyfus, wrongly accused of treason, spent 4 years in solitary confinement.  Very few people escaped, since the island group, known as “The Salvation Islands” or Iles du Salut, has treacherous currents and the waters are shark infested.  In addition, all trees were cut down to prevent prisoners from making rafts.  Prisoners who died were thrown into the sea to ensure the sharks remained close to the islands.  The cemetery contains only guards and their families.  The 1973 and 2017 films “Papillon” dramatized the story of one successful escapee, whose story is now being questioned, since French Archives, recently opened, do not show he was ever on Devils Island.

Today the trees have regrown and Ile Royale boasts a hotel located in the former administrative center and campground on the main square.  There is ferry service to the mainland.  No visitors are allowed on Devils Island, but we will take zodiacs to Ile Sainte Joseph and tenders to Ile Royale.  Ile Royale is better preserved and restored, with extensive signage explaining what is still present.  The island has a large church and a post office, only for residents.  There are two swimming areas constructed by the prisoners, one for guards and one for prisoners.  People were swimming in both and camping in some of the buildings, with hammocks covered with netting slung from the ceilings.  Viewing the partially restored cells, including those on death row was sobering.  The guillotine that was used for executions has been removed.

One of the solitary confinement cells on Ile Royale

Grim solitary confinement

Prisoners swimming area – Ile Royale

Soiltary Confinement house for Albert Dreyfus on Ile du Diable

Interior of Church – decorated by prisoners

Some of the prisoner paintings in church

Church on Ile Royale

Ile Saint Joseph is in a natural state of decay, with trees growing up through the buildings and the 150 solitary confinement cells.  Many of the cells only had bars for a roof, so the prisoners were exposed to the elements all the time.  In another few decades, it will be difficult to even see the crumbling ruins underneath the tropical vegetation.  There is a small group of buildings still used by the French military and off limits to the public.

Interior of Solitary confinement cells

One of the many corridors for the 150 solitary confinement cells

The prison looks better from the outside, Ile Saint Joseph

Many of the cells only had bars for a roof, open to elements

This stairwell to the cells was the last open air many prisoners had as they experienced “hell on earth”

 

Ile du Diable, where the solitary confinement building housing Alfred Dreyfus from 1895-99, is off limits to all visitors, although the building has been preserved and can be photographed from Ile Royale.

 

 

 March 13, 2023 – Boca dos Botos and Parantins

Seabourn Quest steamed overnight and anchored at 0730 in front of a elementary school and a small tributary leading miles inland to a lake.  The current was running at 4-5 knots, so the loading platform had a wake where the vertical supports entered the water.  This stop was for zodiac tours only, and six zodiacs proceeded up the narrow tributary, where the current was from the Amazon River into the lake.  There was a fair amount of development, with cattle, horses, and some cultivation such as Acai palms, passion fruit, bananas, and Brazil nuts.  The Brazil nut trees are protected and cannot be legally cut down.

There was abundant bird life and we could hear, but not see Howler Monkeys.  Sharp eyes from our expedition leader spotted a Sloth, and then another zodiac spotted a second Sloth.  After several hours we returned to the ship for the second wave of zodiac tours.

Boca dos Botos tributary

By 1200 the tours were finished and the ship weighed anchor and headed 10 NM further downstream to the small city of Paratins.  The city provided two vessels used as tenders and guests went ashore for a variety of activities.  The city was small, with several churches, and a convention center.  Paratins sits on an island and is only accessible by air or water.  Paratins is home the the annual Boi Bumba Festival, the second largest celebration in Brazil behind Rio’s Carnival.  Guests were greeted dockside by local Boy Scouts.  A special production of the Boi Bumba festival was held in the afternoon at the convention center.  By 1730 the last tender trip arrived back at the ship and we had a caviar sail away party on the pool deck as the ship headed for the next destination.

Sculpture honoring Black African presence in the Amazon 

Typical Cafe in Paratins

March 14, 2023 – Alter de Chao, Brazil

The ship approached the anchorage in pre-dawn darkness and anchored about one mile from the beach at the resort community of Alter de Chao, some 35 KM from Santarem, up the Tapajos River.  After a brief delay clearing the ship, Patrick proceeded ashore with 25 other guests in 3 zodiacs for a wet landing on a white sand beach, followed by a hike through the savannah into a nature preserve, culminating in a scramble up a very steep switchback trail to the top of Serra Piroco.  At the summit is a iron cross placed by local Jesuits, where mass is often celebrated.  We looked for wildlife, but the hot sun kept them out of sight.

 View of Alter De Chao from Serra Piroco

Returning to the beach area, we were able to swim in the warm waters of the Rio Tapajos before returning to the ship.  The ships tenders went to the main town, also with beaches.  During the dry season, people can walk from Alter de Chao to the spit where the zodiacs landed, but during the wet season, much of the spit is flooded, with the bars and restaurants partially under water.  Later in the afternoon one of the ship’s tenders had a severe engine failure with a minor fire due to a piston failure.  That tender will be out of service for tendering until the engine is repaired or replaced, but remains safe as a lifeboat.  There are three other tenders and a total of 12 zodiacs for shore excursions as we proceed out of the Amazon River.  Alter do Chao is our last port in Brazil and the Amazon River.  Most of the 163 passengers booked for full Grand Voyage gathered on the bow with the crew for a photo shoot and cocktail party as the ship weighed anchor and headed past Santarem towards the mouth of the river.  Later that evening the rain started, heavy at times and continued overnight.

March 15, 2023 – Cruising the Amazon

Rain and fog continued overnight, with the foghorn periodically sounding.  This is a sea day, with lectures about upcoming stops filling the day.  Of particular interest was the lecture on Devils Island, our next stop.  

As we proceeded further downstream, with occasional heavy rain showers we took our last looks at the flooded rainforests lining the banks of the river.  About 1730 the Amazon River pilots departed near the city of Macapa and after midnight Seabourn Quest approached the shallow Barre Norte, or north bar of the Amazon River.

 March 13, 2023 – Boca dos Botos and Parantins

Seabourn Quest steamed overnight and anchored at 0730 in front of a elementary school and a small tributary leading miles inland to a lake.  The current was running at 4-5 knots, so the loading platform had a wake where the vertical supports entered the water.  This stop was for zodiac tours only, and six zodiacs proceeded up the narrow tributary, where the current was from the Amazon River into the lake.  There was a fair amount of development, with cattle, horses, and some cultivation such as Acai palms, passion fruit, bananas, and Brazil nuts.  The Brazil nut trees are protected and cannot be legally cut down.

There was abundant bird life and we could hear, but not see Howler Monkeys.  Sharp eyes from our expedition leader spotted a Sloth, and then another zodiac spotted a second Sloth.  After several hours we returned to the ship for the second wave of zodiac tours.

Boca dos Botos tributary

By 1200 the tours were finished and the ship weighed anchor and headed 10 NM further downstream to the small city of Paratins.  The city provided two vessels used as tenders and guests went ashore for a variety of activities.  The city was small, with several churches, and a convention center.  Paratins sits on an island and is only accessible by air or water.  Paratins is home the the annual Boi Bumba Festival, the second largest celebration in Brazil behind Rio’s Carnival.  Guests were greeted dockside by local Boy Scouts.  A special production of the Boi Bumba festival was held in the afternoon at the convention center.  By 1730 the last tender trip arrived back at the ship and we had a caviar sail away party on the pool deck as the ship headed for the next destination.

Sculpture honoring Black African presence in the Amazon 

Typical Cafe in Paratins

March 14, 2023 – Alter de Chao, Brazil

The ship approached the anchorage in pre-dawn darkness and anchored about one mile from the beach at the resort community of Alter de Chao, some 35 KM from Santarem, up the Tapajos River.  After a brief delay clearing the ship, Patrick proceeded ashore with 25 other guests in 3 zodiacs for a wet landing on a white sand beach, followed by a hike through the savannah into a nature preserve, culminating in a scramble up a very steep switchback trail to the top of Serra Piroco.  At the summit is a iron cross placed by local Jesuits, where mass is often celebrated.  We looked for wildlife, but the hot sun kept them out of sight.

 View of Alter De Chao from Serra Piroco

Returning to the beach area, we were able to swim in the warm waters of the Rio Tapajos before returning to the ship.  The ships tenders went to the main town, also with beaches.  During the dry season, people can walk from Alter de Chao to the spit where the zodiacs landed, but during the wet season, much of the spit is flooded, with the bars and restaurants partially under water.  Later in the afternoon one of the ship’s tenders had a severe engine failure with a minor fire due to a piston failure.  That tender will be out of service for tendering until the engine is repaired or replaced, but remains safe as a lifeboat.  There are three other tenders and a total of 12 zodiacs for shore excursions as we proceed out of the Amazon River.  Alter do Chao is our last port in Brazil and the Amazon River.  Most of the 163 passengers booked for full Grand Voyage gathered on the bow with the crew for a photo shoot and cocktail party as the ship weighed anchor and headed past Santarem towards the mouth of the river.  Later that evening the rain started, heavy at times and continued overnight.

March 15, 2023 – Cruising the Amazon

Rain and fog continued overnight, with the foghorn periodically sounding.  This is a sea day, with lectures about upcoming stops filling the day.  Of particular interest was the lecture on Devils Island, our next stop.  

As we proceeded further downstream, with occasional heavy rain showers we took our last looks at the flooded rainforests lining the banks of the river.  About 1730 the Amazon River pilots departed near the city of Macapa and after midnight Seabourn Quest approached the shallow Barre Norte, or north bar of the Amazon River.