Feb 15 – Old San Juan, PR

“Travel…the best way to be lost and found at the same time.” ~Brenna Smith

Today we left the mountains and returned to the coast. We’ll spend the next three days in Old San Juan. It was one of our favorite places we visited in 2020. We just loved this old walled city. So many beautiful buildings and so much history. OSJ is actually an island connected to the main island by bridges on the eastern side and is the oldest city in the US and its territories. The Spanish built two huge forts and walled-in the city to protect it from the French, Dutch, and English. San Juan became Spain’s fortified door to the Americas. Today Old San Juan is a busy hub for tourism. We love to walk the city taking in the beauty of the century old buildings that are now used for museums, restaurants, stores and interesting places to stay.

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Second Trip tp Marina Costa Baja, Day 13

Sunrise on Saturday, February 11. It was another morning where the clouds mostly, but not completely, blocked the sun. We’d made an appointment at the fuel dock to get 250-gallons of fuel. As you can tell from the photo above, … Continue reading

Feb. 14 – Jayuya, PR

“Those who follow the crowd usually get lost in it.”  —Rick Watson

We traveled east out of Jayuya today to explore some popular tourist places and to find some pretty waterfalls. Our first stop was at La Piedra Escrita (the written stone). This beautiful park offers wonderful views of the mountains and a great place to swim in the tranquil water. But it’s best known for the large granite boulder that is covered in pictographs. The site was added to the United States National Register of Historic Places in 2003 due to its importance as a prime example of prehistoric rock art in Puerto Rico. 

La Piedra Escrita

Taino Symbols and means.

Some of the symbols on the rock at La Piedra Escrita.
We have found that the first of the week isn’t a good time to travel in this area. Most of the restaurants are closed and so are a lot of the popular places to visit. We knew that the Hacienda San Pedro coffee plantation wouldn’t be giving tours but we thought we’d be able to visit the café and gift shop, but no, they were closed. So our next stop was the El Cemi Museum. 

The museum is small, but nice. It has pieces of pottery, some tools and other artifacts from daily Taino life. The museum’s cemi shape was chosen to represent the Tres Picachos Mountain range. A cemi is a deity, ancestor or spirit.  
After our bit of education in the history of the Taino people we went in search of waterfalls. The first one we found was the Doña Juana Waterfall. It’s located right by the road, so we didn’t have to do any hiking to find it. The falls consist of three falls and were very impressive for a roadside falls. Our next stop was the highlight of the day. Cascada Las Delicias (Delights Waterfall). We could see it from the road and it was a series of three falls also. Climbing up the trail to the top fall treated us to a tropical paradise. The water was beautiful and the lush vegetation made us feel like we had left the busy world behind and were lost in the jungle. Our third waterfall was Charco El Morón. The surrounding area was pretty, but the waterfall was a bust…at least for us, because we couldn’t even get to it. We enjoyed a morning of exploring and returned to Patria Mia for a late lunch. We got back to the house just as the rain began to fall. We spent the afternoon relaxing, napping, reading and working on the blog. 

Doña Juana Waterfall
Walking up to Cascada Las Delicias from the road.

This is the middle falls.

The upper falls.

Looking down from the middle falls.

The scenery here was a bit different. It was in a nice valley, the water was pretty but we couldn’t get much further than this towards the falls.

Since nothing was open for dinner we decided to cook in again this evening at the house. The kitchen was very basic, only two burners, so the first night we had seasoned rice and meatballs and the second night we had spaghetti. We’ll have a nice Valentine’s dinner once we get to Old San Juan. 

Feb. 14 – Jayuya, PR

“Those who follow the crowd usually get lost in it.”  —Rick Watson

We traveled east out of Jayuya today to explore some popular tourist places and to find some pretty waterfalls. Our first stop was at La Piedra Escrita (the written stone). This beautiful park offers wonderful views of the mountains and a great place to swim in the tranquil water. But it’s best known for the large granite boulder that is covered in pictographs. The site was added to the United States National Register of Historic Places in 2003 due to its importance as a prime example of prehistoric rock art in Puerto Rico. 

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Second Trip to Marina Costa Baja, Day 12 — La Paz and Black/Grey Water Tanks

On Friday (February 10), Christi had an appointment for another haircut, so we took the 0900 shuttle into town. From the cathedral (where we were dropped off), we walked a few blocks south to a bank to use the ATM. … Continue reading

Drake Passage Northbound

The Drake Passage lived up to its reputation for big weather on our two-night passage back to Ushuaia from the Girlache Strait. We experienced 33-40 ft (10-12m) seas with winds blowing steadily 60 kts and gusting to 70. We didn’t, however, experience the dreaded “Drake Shake”. The National Geographic Endurance handled the conditions remarkably well,…

Feb. 13 – Cañon Blanco

“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the journey.” -Babs Hoffman 
There’s a saying that the journey is better than the destination or something like that. Our true adventure today was getting to the destination. If you travel to Puerto Rico I suggest not counting on Google to get you where you want to go. Yesterday and today it took us on some pretty out of the way roads that ended up at a dead end or turned into a river bottom. We could see we were so close but we just couldn’t get there. If Stan hadn’t been so determined to find our intended destination I would have given up and gone home. Some of the roads were a little scary. We were right on the edge of a mountain on roads that were no wider than our car, but the views were amazing. 

Some of the views while we were looking for Cañon Blanco.

We finally used Waze and arrived at Cañon Blanco on the Caonillas River. It was so impressive and worth the effort it took for us to find it. The glowing, white rock canyon, stands out against the lush greenery of the forest and the beautiful blue sky. It was completely different than anything we’ve seen.

Looking up river from the canyon.

Looking down river towards the canyon.

The beginning of the first canyon. The canyon was deeper and more impressive here.
This is the beginning of the second canyon we thought it was very pretty also.

We even found a waterfall called Cascada la Danzante (the dancing waterfall) at the end of the canyon where the river starts to flatten out.

This is as far as we explored…we loved this area of Puerto Rico.

In numerous places along the river we found pre-Columbian petroglyphs carved into the rocks by the Taino Indians.  

Feb. 13 – Cañon Blanco

“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the journey.” -Babs Hoffman 
There’s a saying that the journey is better than the destination or something like that. Our true adventure today was getting to the destination. If you travel to Puerto Rico I suggest not counting on Google to get you where you want to go. Yesterday and today it took us on some pretty out of the way roads that ended up at a dead end or turned into a river bottom. We could see we were so close but we just couldn’t get there. If Stan hadn’t been so determined to find our intended destination I would have given up and gone home. Some of the roads were a little scary. We were right on the edge of a mountain on roads that were no wider than our car, but the views were amazing. 

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

South Georgia Island

February 12, 2023 – Grytviken, South Georgia Island

 

Seabourn Quest anchored off of King Edward Point, Cumberland Bay at 0700 in windy, but relatively calm conditions since the wind was from the west over the land, so no fetch.  Clearance procedures to go ashore took some time, but the ship scored 100% on the biosecurity inspections.

 

We were taken ashore by zodiac and walked by the graveyard where Sir Ernest Shackleton and  Frank Wild among others are buried.  We could not enter the graveyard itself since the path was blocked by numerous Elephant Seas and hundreds of Southern Fur Seals and pups.  Walking around the bay we passed by King Penguins, more fur seals, and the remnants of the whaling equipment, abandoned when the Norwegians stopped whaling in the 1960’s.

 

Shackleton Grave from our 2016 Trip

Many of the buildings have been torn down as part of asbestos abatement, but there were still plenty of photo opportunities.  The church is in good shape.  There is a museum, post office and gift shop.  The museum includes a replica of the James Caird, the lifeboat that Shackleton and 5 others sailed to South Georgia from Elephant Island.

 

Whalers Church, Grytviken

Remnants of the whaling equipment

Replica of the James Caird

King Penguins, Grytviken

Whalers Church Interior

Whalers Church

Fur Seal pup feeding

Fur Seal Pups

Rusting machinery and buildings

Following our visit to Grytviken, the captain sailed a short distance up the coast and entered Stromness Harbor, the site of another abandoned whaling station.  This is the station that Shackleton arrived at with two others after the arduous trek from the other side of the island.  Seabourn Quest remained anchored in the bay in front of the station until midnight.

 

Abandoned Norwegian Whaling Ship

Grytviken, South Georgia Island

Stromness Whaling Station where Shackleton arrived on foot

February 13, 2023 – Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island

 

Early in the morning, in fog, we took up position 3000 feet off the beach landing site.  At 0830 we began beach landings to see up to 500,000 King Penguins and hundreds of fur seals and pups nestled in the Tussock Grass.  The beach landing was exciting and to walk among that many birds in a single colony stretching up into the hills and extending for miles along the beach was amazing, as was the noise and the smell. There were also giant petrels and Skuas looking for weak or small chicks to feast on.  Also several Blue Eyed Shags flew by.  Even with the low visibility and rain, it was truly stunning.

 

Part of the massive King Penguin Colony


Patrick had hoped to kayak here, but his excursion was cancelled due to low visibility.

 

By 1700 everyone who wanted to go ashore had done so, so all the zodiacs were recovered and we set sail for the Falkland Islands, a distance of approximately 740 NM.

  

South Georgia Island

February 12, 2023 – Grytviken, South Georgia Island

 

Seabourn Quest anchored off of King Edward Point, Cumberland Bay at 0700 in windy, but relatively calm conditions since the wind was from the west over the land, so no fetch.  Clearance procedures to go ashore took some time, but the ship scored 100% on the biosecurity inspections.

 

We were taken ashore by zodiac and walked by the graveyard where Sir Ernest Shackleton and  Frank Wild among others are buried.  We could not enter the graveyard itself since the path was blocked by numerous Elephant Seas and hundreds of Southern Fur Seals and pups.  Walking around the bay we passed by King Penguins, more fur seals, and the remnants of the whaling equipment, abandoned when the Norwegians stopped whaling in the 1960’s.

 

Shackleton Grave from our 2016 Trip

Many of the buildings have been torn down as part of asbestos abatement, but there were still plenty of photo opportunities.  The church is in good shape.  There is a museum, post office and gift shop.  The museum includes a replica of the James Caird, the lifeboat that Shackleton and 5 others sailed to South Georgia from Elephant Island.

 

Whalers Church, Grytviken

Remnants of the whaling equipment

Replica of the James Caird

King Penguins, Grytviken

Whalers Church Interior

Whalers Church

Fur Seal pup feeding

Fur Seal Pups

Rusting machinery and buildings

Following our visit to Grytviken, the captain sailed a short distance up the coast and entered Stromness Harbor, the site of another abandoned whaling station.  This is the station that Shackleton arrived at with two others after the arduous trek from the other side of the island.  Seabourn Quest remained anchored in the bay in front of the station until midnight.

 

Abandoned Norwegian Whaling Ship

Grytviken, South Georgia Island

Stromness Whaling Station where Shackleton arrived on foot

February 13, 2023 – Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island

 

Early in the morning, in fog, we took up position 3000 feet off the beach landing site.  At 0830 we began beach landings to see up to 500,000 King Penguins and hundreds of fur seals and pups nestled in the Tussock Grass.  The beach landing was exciting and to walk among that many birds in a single colony stretching up into the hills and extending for miles along the beach was amazing, as was the noise and the smell. There were also giant petrels and Skuas looking for weak or small chicks to feast on.  Also several Blue Eyed Shags flew by.  Even with the low visibility and rain, it was truly stunning.

 

Part of the massive King Penguin Colony


Patrick had hoped to kayak here, but his excursion was cancelled due to low visibility.

 

By 1700 everyone who wanted to go ashore had done so, so all the zodiacs were recovered and we set sail for the Falkland Islands, a distance of approximately 740 NM.