MASKELYNES Canoe Festival

By on August 5, 2017 in Domino

MASKELYNES Canoe Festival

July 2017 – Uliveo, Vanuatu

At the southeast point of Malakula Island is a small archipelago: The Maskalynes.  It’s a small group of tiny islands, some lined with mangroves, others fringed with reefs and white sand beaches, and we thought we’d check them out.  Our first visit took us to Awai, a cul-de-sac anchorage closed by a reef that looked really quiet and peaceful.  It was.


AWAI – 16*32.031S – 167*46.167E – The reef around the anchorage isn’t much, shallow and rather beat up, and every day the villagers walk the reef at low tide to gather what they can: small octopi, shells, tiny fish that they trap in their nets. 

Awai’s sandy beach
Grass beds are quite healthy and this is turtle and dugong (manatee) territory.

Women going to the gardens
The locals greeted us warmly.  All day, we watched women paddling by on their dugouts, traveling from nearby Uliveo to the mainland of Malakula where the fertile land yields splendid crops of island cabbage (a kind of spinach,) root vegetables (water taro, yam, cassava) and of course coconut.

Man on his way to the gardens
Let’s not forget the “flying foxes,” or giant fruit bats that fly overhead!  If you have a gun on board, the locals will take you hunting.  Yes, they are excellent to eat.  Although the locals just roast them, we prefer them in civet (marinated in red wine) or paté.


When a long boat stopped by to invite us to go anchor at Uliveo, we thought well, OK, we’ll go there next.


ULIVEO – 16*31.913S – 167*49.793E – Our first encounter in Uliveo was a nightmare.  As soon as we dropped anchor in front of Sangalai village we were hailed on VHF by Stewart, the self-declared yacht club and guide.  Did we need a guide? Should we want to eat ashore? Visit the island? Snorkel with a guide?  Nope, we didn’t think so.  All we wanted was permission to snorkel along the reef.  Permission granted, anywhere we wished.  And so we dropped in the water and snorkeled the east side of the reef. 

Peskarus landing from the inside anchorage, not reachable at low tide
As we returned, we were confronted by (as I call him) Chief Mad Dog from Peskarus village who decreed that we had violated the custom law by snorkeling the reef and we had just been assessed a 15,000 Vatus ($150) fine.  

Now, why did Stewart say we could snorkel?
I lost it.  After 2 hours of heated argument, with Stewart trying to swallow his mistake under the blows of Chief Mad Dog’s insults, while I responded with not-so-ladylike language to the threats of impounding our dinghy and our powercat, JP managed to calmly bring the fine down to 1,500 Vatus ($15) which we paid quite reluctantly.  Chief Mad Dog returned to his village with money in his pocket and my evil eye following him… something was fishy.  We left at dawn.

CANOE RACE FESTIVAL – When a month later our buddy boat “Blue Bie” announced they were returning to Uliveo for the Canoe Race Festival, I was not enthused, but JP managed to convince me it could be fun.  So, we returned and landed the dinghy at Peskarus.  No sooner were we on land that Chef Mad Dog was passing me a letter asking for a donation for his Independence Day Festivity Committee.  Was he kidding me?  

Kit is the man!

Meanwhile, JP had met Kit, and Kit had a crazy idea: bring DOMINO around to the east side of Peskarus to anchor in the lagoon, a much quieter and pleasant anchorage than in front of Sangalai.  This was yet another example of village rivalry.  All the yachts anchor in front of Sangalai, but none has ever enter the shallow and narrow pass into the Peskarus lagoon.  Kit looked at DOMINO and knew we could do it.  After sounding the pass with the dinghy, JP agreed: at high tide on neap tide, DOMINO would make it.  Right now!



It was a mad dash to race the tide, but Kit had us on schedule and on track.  One hour after high tide, we threaded the narrow pass, with barely 50 cm under the hulls (we draught 1.20m) and a few inches on each side (7 meter wide.)  Under the delirious applause of the entire village, we dropped the hook in this splendid lagoon, the 1st yacht ever to do so.  JP was suddenly the hero, the “Mensch” who had proven that Peskarus was a desirable anchorage.  


The lagoon is an idyllic anchorage… if only boats could get in!

That was before Philip on “Blue Bie” shot us an SMS to remind us to watch out for the tide.  In 3 days, the tide amplitude would be 40cm less and we would be stuck in the lagoon until neap tide.  With regret, we left the next morning at high tide, with only 30 cm clearance. That was too tight for comfort.  

Paddling is at the center of the villagers’ lives

We spent the next two days feasting with this village that turned out to be amazingly friendly.  We soon found out that there was a new chief, that Chief Mad Dog had been disciplined for his poor behavior (and embezzling some of the village’s funds) and relieved of his official responsibilities.  We never saw him that weekend.

Our reception committee

What we saw was a village working hard to improve their destiny.  The fisheries’ representative, John, showed us how his task force removed over 800 Crown of Thorns (Acanthasters) from the reef
Canoe making: 1st, fell a breadfruit tree

All of us 12 cruisers were treated with the utmost courtesy, from paddling us to a reception line, flower leis, welcome speech and 2 days of activities: canoe races (“2 blacks 1 white crew”), visit of the soap factory, reef preservation education, canoe building, weaving, kava tasting, singing and dancing.  

Then, give it a gross shape

The women cooked splendid meals of fish and lobster, and the men roasted a pig for our last evening.  

Then, drag it to shore

JP took to the festivities as a fish to water, cheered by the villagers and hailed as “The Man” as he joined in the dances and led all in “Hip-Hip_Puray” and laughter.




The new chief— a retired teacher— impressed us with his organization and vision, his plans for bettering the economic future of his community.  As we left, he had filled out a request for a Peace Corps volunteer and garnered donations toward the projects at the top of his list: a hot air dryer for the island’s copra cooperative and enough money to dynamite a widening in the pass (he already got the OK from the Ministry of Environment.)

The village’s deaf-mute is the only one who knows the secrets of sand drawing

 It was a privilege to be part of this festival, a celebration of the canoe without which the Meskaline islanders could not survive.


Sharing a light moment with the kids as they teach me to weave palms into balls.
Off to another island,


Until then


dominomarie

[KensBlog 2017-06] Southward Bound

By on August 5, 2017 in Sans Souci

Greetings all! Roberta and I are slowly working our way south somewhat retracing steps. We need to be back home to Seattle early in September and have some places further south (like Victoria Canada) that we want to visit. Here’s a recap of some of…

[KensBlog 2017-06] Southward Bound

By on August 5, 2017 in Sans Souci


Greetings all! Roberta and I are slowly working our way south somewhat retracing steps. We need to be back home to Seattle early in September and have some places further south (like Victoria Canada) that we want to visit. Here’s a recap of some of the places we visited on our way south… Echo Bay Resort We spent a couple nights at the Echo Bay resort which we really didn’t know much about, but enjoyed our time there. Here’s a video I found on the web that describes Echo Bay better than…

[KensBlog 2017-06] Southward Bound

By on August 5, 2017 in Sans Souci


Greetings all! Roberta and I are slowly working our way south somewhat retracing steps. We need to be back home to Seattle early in September and have some places further south (like Victoria Canada) that we want to visit. Here’s a recap of some of the places we visited on our way south… Echo Bay Resort We spent a couple nights at the Echo Bay resort which we really didn’t know much about, but enjoyed our time there. Here’s a video I found on the web that describes Echo Bay better than…
Start your own blog now! Free!

[KensBlog 2017-06] Southward Bound

By on August 5, 2017 in Sans Souci


Greetings all! Roberta and I are slowly working our way south somewhat retracing steps. We need to be back home to Seattle early in September and have some places further south (like Victoria Canada) that we want to visit. Here’s a recap of some of the places we visited on our way south… Echo Bay Resort We spent a couple nights at the Echo Bay resort which we really didn’t know much about, but enjoyed our time there. Here’s a video I found on the web that describes Echo Bay better than…
Start your own blog now! Free!

Causeway Coast

By on August 5, 2017 in M/V Dirona

Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland consists of over 40,000 hexagonal basalt stones that lead from a cliff foot into the sea. The dramatic site inspired legends of giants building the causeway to reach Scotland across the sea. Led Zeppelin fans might recognize the above scene from the Houses of the Holy cover. We had sorely…

Pentecost Island – 1-2-3 Jump!

By on August 4, 2017 in Domino

Pentecost Island (Vanuatu) – June 2nd, 2017.

This was the stuff DISCOVERY Channel and National Geographic crave: Land Diving on Pentecost Island.  One of the world’s few remaining rites of passage, Land Diving is becoming a tourist attraction that we were more than willing to pay $70 p/pers. to watch.  This is, even in Vanuatu, a rare and special event, and we rushed from Port Vila to the village of Wali on the west coast of Pentecost to catch the last of it.

This is the original bungee jumping
You see, land diving only happens at yam harvest season, when the vines that tie the divers’ feet are still moist and flexible, a short season in April-May.  When June comes and the dry season starts, the vines are deemed too dry and brittle, a danger to the divers.  Thus, land diving only happens for a short 6 to 8-week period each year.  


This is an event specific to Pentecost Island.  Nowhere else in Vanuatu is it performed.  A one time, it was a rite of passage required of each young boy.  It is now a voluntary act; no young boy is forced to jump.  Yet, the young boys we spoke with consider it a proof of manhood, to the horror of their mothers who dare not watch.

Each jumper has his own landing style: shoulder sideways, upper back roll, chest flat.

Pentecost is one of the few islands where traditional villages still exist, primarily on the east coast.  


A branch, a stick, and 2 tuna cans do the job: perfect trolley!
There, the locals must wear the traditional attire: waist girdle and penis sheath for men, grass skirts for women.  They live in traditional palm huts, fish from traditional canoes, and subsist on their own farming of pig, cows, chicken and—of course— yam.

Reception committee

Yam harvest is a big deal in Vanuatu and is the cause of much celebration and festivals.  We joined a few, starting with land diving.



** Note –  We have been using the Rocket Guide to Vanuatu for all our waypoints and have found them spot on.  http://www.rocket-guide-vanuatu.com/


Shortly after we anchored by the black-rock and sand beach between Lonwe and Wali (15*54.519S – 168*11.194E) we discovered the vagaries of village politics.  Lonwe to the north is catholic and French-speaking; Wali to the south is Protestant and English-speaking, the division a remnant of colonization days when the New Hebrides were French, then British.  
The French-speaking villagers were about to feast with chicken… that will be for another day.

Our friend Philip (s/v “Blue Bie”) had negotiated a show with the French village and at the appointed time, our 4 yachts disembarked to be lead to the French village.  But STOP!!! The chief from the southern village showed up, telling us that the minister of tourism for the region was bringing tourists from Port Vila and had ordered the jump moved from the French to the English village.  After much argument, the French-speaking villagers bowed out and we were led to the southern village.  This was our 1st of many frustrating experiences of village politics.

The elder makes sure that everything is done right.

In the end, a dozen of us tourists were led to the giant jumping tower.  To be sure, there is only one man in charge of the tower, its woods, its detachable platforms, the long “lianas” that tether the jumper to the base, and the grass that tie the jumper’s feet.  If the man decrees that the vines are too dry, no argument.



While the jumpers get ready, a choir of men, boys and women sway and sing to encourage all participants

Another successful landing

Each man has a job.  One is in charge of the landing platform, a plot of soft soil on a sharp slope, that he constantly cleans of debris and tills to maximum softness.  This man also takes care of the jumper upon landing, helps him up and releases him from the tethers.

First jump ever!

Two other men are in charge of helping the divers onto the tower, tethering them and setting up the jumps, as well as removing the platforms after the jumps.


The young boys, as young as 8 years old, jump first, from the tower’s lower levels.  The first-time jumper was cheered on by a chorus of men, boys and women, singing and chirping him unto action.  Mama was closing her eyes.  But the jump was a success and the boy swelled up with pride.

The top man!

Adult men jumped from higher and higher, until the top jumper launched himself from the top of the 30-meter tower, pumped up by chants and bird chirping.  yes, he could definitely fly!  


While this show was presented on the west coast village, most jumpers and dancers had come from the traditional villages on the east coast.  




The “crack” sound that can be heard near the end of the jump is the proof of a functioning shock-absorbing system.  Each launching platform is mounted on a few sticks.  When the jumper reaches the end of his fall the vine tenses up and pulls on the platform, breaking the support sticks, therefore allowing a bit of a stretch and shock absorbing to soften the fall.

It was, indeed, a privilege to be accepted into the village and to share in the ceremony.  

Back landing… stylish!

Later, the young boy’s mother sold us coffee and bread, just to make a few Vatus so she could send her boy to school.  No, secondary education is not free in Vanuatu and we were happy to spend a bit of $ to help her out.  Yes, her son had jumped but the money definitely didn’t go to him.
Successful 1st jump… proud boy!

WATERFALL BAY – 15*47.310S – 168*09.691E  –  A few weeks later, we anchored overnight in this beautiful bay, one of the many where waterfalls drop straight into the sea.  Another nice anchorage!

Till the next one…

dominomarie

Pentecost Island – 1-2-3 Jump!

By on August 4, 2017 in Domino

Pentecost Island (Vanuatu) – June 2nd, 2017.

This was the stuff DISCOVERY Channel and National Geographic crave: Land Diving on Pentecost Island.  One of the world’s few remaining rites of passage, Land Diving is becoming a tourist attraction that we were more than willing to pay $70 p/pers. to watch.  This is, even in Vanuatu, a rare and special event, and we rushed from Port Vila to the village of Wali on the west coast of Pentecost to catch the last of it.

This is the original bungee jumping
You see, land diving only happens at yam harvest season, when the vines that tie the divers’ feet are still moist and flexible, a short season in April-May.  When June comes and the dry season starts, the vines are deemed too dry and brittle, a danger to the divers.  Thus, land diving only happens for a short 6 to 8-week period each year.  


This is an event specific to Pentecost Island.  Nowhere else in Vanuatu is it performed.  A one time, it was a rite of passage required of each young boy.  It is now a voluntary act; no young boy is forced to jump.  Yet, the young boys we spoke with consider it a proof of manhood, to the horror of their mothers who dare not watch.

Each jumper has his own landing style: shoulder sideways, upper back roll, chest flat.

Pentecost is one of the few islands where traditional villages still exist, primarily on the east coast.  


A branch, a stick, and 2 tuna cans do the job: perfect trolley!
There, the locals must wear the traditional attire: waist girdle and penis sheath for men, grass skirts for women.  They live in traditional palm huts, fish from traditional canoes, and subsist on their own farming of pig, cows, chicken and—of course— yam.

Reception committee

Yam harvest is a big deal in Vanuatu and is the cause of much celebration and festivals.  We joined a few, starting with land diving.



** Note –  We have been using the Rocket Guide to Vanuatu for all our waypoints and have found them spot on.  http://www.rocket-guide-vanuatu.com/


Shortly after we anchored by the black-rock and sand beach between Lonwe and Wali (15*54.519S – 168*11.194E) we discovered the vagaries of village politics.  Lonwe to the north is catholic and French-speaking; Wali to the south is Protestant and English-speaking, the division a remnant of colonization days when the New Hebrides were French, then British.  
The French-speaking villagers were about to feast with chicken… that will be for another day.

Our friend Philip (s/v “Blue Bie”) had negotiated a show with the French village and at the appointed time, our 4 yachts disembarked to be lead to the French village.  But STOP!!! The chief from the southern village showed up, telling us that the minister of tourism for the region was bringing tourists from Port Vila and had ordered the jump moved from the French to the English village.  After much argument, the French-speaking villagers bowed out and we were led to the southern village.  This was our 1st of many frustrating experiences of village politics.

The elder makes sure that everything is done right.

In the end, a dozen of us tourists were led to the giant jumping tower.  To be sure, there is only one man in charge of the tower, its woods, its detachable platforms, the long “lianas” that tether the jumper to the base, and the grass that tie the jumper’s feet.  If the man decrees that the vines are too dry, no argument.



While the jumpers get ready, a choir of men, boys and women sway and sing to encourage all participants

Another successful landing

Each man has a job.  One is in charge of the landing platform, a plot of soft soil on a sharp slope, that he constantly cleans of debris and tills to maximum softness.  This man also takes care of the jumper upon landing, helps him up and releases him from the tethers.

First jump ever!

Two other men are in charge of helping the divers onto the tower, tethering them and setting up the jumps, as well as removing the platforms after the jumps.


The young boys, as young as 8 years old, jump first, from the tower’s lower levels.  The first-time jumper was cheered on by a chorus of men, boys and women, singing and chirping him unto action.  Mama was closing her eyes.  But the jump was a success and the boy swelled up with pride.

The top man!

Adult men jumped from higher and higher, until the top jumper launched himself from the top of the 30-meter tower, pumped up by chants and bird chirping.  yes, he could definitely fly!  


While this show was presented on the west coast village, most jumpers and dancers had come from the traditional villages on the east coast.  




The “crack” sound that can be heard near the end of the jump is the proof of a functioning shock-absorbing system.  Each launching platform is mounted on a few sticks.  When the jumper reaches the end of his fall the vine tenses up and pulls on the platform, breaking the support sticks, therefore allowing a bit of a stretch and shock absorbing to soften the fall.

It was, indeed, a privilege to be accepted into the village and to share in the ceremony.  

Back landing… stylish!

Later, the young boy’s mother sold us coffee and bread, just to make a few Vatus so she could send her boy to school.  No, secondary education is not free in Vanuatu and we were happy to spend a bit of $ to help her out.  Yes, her son had jumped but the money definitely didn’t go to him.
Successful 1st jump… proud boy!

WATERFALL BAY – 15*47.310S – 168*09.691E  –  A few weeks later, we anchored overnight in this beautiful bay, one of the many where waterfalls drop straight into the sea.  Another nice anchorage!

Till the next one…

dominomarie

Sidney to Desolation Sound

By on August 4, 2017 in Idyll Time

Sidney to Thetis Island: We say goodby to all the folks at Philbrooks (now for the forth time) and are away from the docks at 2 pm Friday afternoon. Nick our electrician has just finished installing the new fuel solenoid into Puff the Magic Dragon now version 3.0 ( our diesel heater) which arrived at […]

Maine Homecoming

By on August 4, 2017 in aCappella

We all have places that just feel like coming home. The Red Head crew finally pulled into Castine where we will be staying for a spell.It’s been two years but the old feelings were there. We watched through the fog for the first glimpses of Dyce Head …