Mountainous Sardinia (the Gennargentu Range rises to 1,834m) is not historically regarded as a seafaring nation but one of farmers and shepherds.
Now that term “historic” is interesting as we find one of the great aspects of cruising the Med is immersing ourselves in its history. We come from New Zealand which has the shortest human history of any country, being first settled by Polynesians about 1300AD (the exact date is not known), and where the oldest building was built in 1821. By comparison the earliest signs of human occupation in Sardinia are stone tools dating back 170,000 years while parts of buildings still stand that were built between 1,800 and 1,200 BC. These are cone-shaped stone towers known as Nuraghe, built for an unknown purpose but likely used as dwellings or for religious rituals. More than 7,000 of these unique-to-Sardinia structures still survive from an estimated 10,000 built.
Contributing to Sardinia’s colourful history is the fact that it was invaded consecutively by Phoenecians, Cathaginians, Romans, Vandals and Spanish before it became part of the new Republic of Italy in 1861.
ALGHERO
Eight days is too short a time to explore the whole island so after flying in to the capital – Cagliari we drive about 250km north-west to base ourselves in the historic town of Alghero.
Alghero lies on the Riviera del Corallo – the Coral Riviera, so-named for its rare red coral brought up from depths of over 80 metres by just a handful of licensed divers and fashioned into exquisite jewelry and ornaments.
It started as a fishing village in the 11th century and then had about 350 years of Spanish rule lasting to 1720, which has left an influence to this day. Now a thriving town with a population of 41,000 augmented by thousands of summer tourists drawn to Alghero’s atmosphere, historic Old Town, sandy beaches, marina, local sights, vineyards and great eateries specialising in fresh seafood.
Alghero Old Town’s impressive fortifications look like they can still withstand a siege
Beautifully ornate church steeple
This sweet shop with life-size pirate figures wasn’t at all tacky
GROTTO DI NETTUNO
An especially exciting day is the boat trip to the Grotto di Nettuno (Neptune’s Grotto), an extensive sea cave system named after the Roman god of the sea.
After arriving at the grotto’s mouth the expertly-handled tourist boat, about 70 feet long, first picks up a stout stern line attached to a mooring buoy, then heads bow first through the approximately one metre high swells into the cave’s narrow entrance. The crew then throw two heavy bow lines to shoremen who attach them to bollards and take up the slack while the boat still powers ahead taking up the strain of the stern line. With the boat temporarily secured the crew place a boarding platform over the bow to shore and assist the passengers, including some rather reluctant ones to take the seemingly perilous walk across the heaving platform to shore.
Two young Chinese ladies wearing ridiculously high heels for a boat trip struggle to get ashore and are then told their footwear is unsuitable for entering the grotto.
The grotto itself is extraordinarily spectacular with a pathway between stalagmites about 500 metres open to the public and a further 2,500 metres reserved for expert cavers. Inside the grotto is a mass of stalactites (descending from the cavernous roof) and stalagmites (ascending from the floor), built up over millions of years by calcium deposits from fresh water seepage. As it takes approximately 100-200 years for 1cm of calcium deposit to build, our minds are in awe of the process.
Ferry approaches cave
Watch out for the rocks! Ferry enters mouth of cave
Ferry’s bow held firm in the swell with stout lines
A small part of the impressive interior of the Grotto
MARINAS
During our car exploration we find good marinas located at Bosa, Alghero and Castelsardo. Several anchorages also appears to be sheltered in most conditions. Driving conditions are good with mostly well-maintained and signposted roads, plenty of places to stop for refreshments and loads of interesting sights. We’d definitely recommend Sardinia for a relaxing holiday with lots of variety.
A bleak day for our visit to Castelsardo
Amy and Laurie in Castelsardo main square below the fortress townwrapped up warm against the chill
Castelsardo
Stintino marina
FOR FOODIES
We’re surprised to find roast donkey and roast horse on many menus but can’t pluck up the courage to taste these local delicacies settling for culinary delights like grilled swordfish, octopus, squid, spaghetti with clams and roast pork (which they call “crispy roast piggy”).
At a great waterside taverna in Stintino we had Spaghetti Vongole – that is with clams and spaghetti with prawns – both delicious!
