Tag Archives | Nordhavn

The Bay

It’s another one of those peaceful Sunday mornings… My favorite way to start a day — quiet, overcast, the view from the salon window is like an old photograph, and so far, other than a few gulls, there’s not a soul stirring around the harbor.
We’re now tied up in Solomons Island, MD at Spring Cove Marina where we’re spending a soggy Labor Day Weekend. Though the sun may make an appearance today, it’s probably too little too late and has been a disappointment for those deserving a sunny respite from work. Especially for the marina operators; all prepped to handle the large crowd of boaters, who for the most part have canceled reservations due to weather.

So far, we’re enjoying the bay, we always do. I like motoring to all our favorite towns and marinas while mostly running in deep-ish water — very comfortable cruising — unlike the attention demanding shallow windings of the ICW. Mel likes the local restaurants serving good Blue Crab and local fish…  and the little shops. We both enjoy bumping into old acquaintances and making new ones, this seems to happen a lot on the Chesapeake.

Lady M, Marty and Amy, we’ve known them for years.  Now 88, Marty and his girlfriend Amy — have been running up and down the east coast for so many years. Marty is a wealth of knowledge and experience, he’s our personal cruising guide. If we have doubts about an inlet or a marina, we call Marty. Been there done that, many times. We always enjoy their company and did for the few days while repairing our lightning damage at Atlantic Yacht Basin. (Which, by the way, seems all good)


Leaving AYB and heading out into the Chesapeake, we found the Bay to be a bit sloppy, but soon the tide changed direction and all settled down.

Around Thimble Shoals Light, we made way toward the York River, Gloucester Point, VA and York River Yacht Haven. We’ve done this many times so with the comfort of previous track lines on our charts, we easily skirted the shoal and eased into the marina.

We were surprised to see Southern Star on the same T-head. Istaboa was briefly tied next to N-47 Southern Star while at Old Port Cove. Later we got together with Ted and Jenny and we’ve enjoyed their company several times since.
Nice folks.

They gave us a great tie at YRYH, out on a T-head with a killer view from our stern. Waking early every morning and having my coffee with the sun rising above Sarah Creek was always a pleasure and certainly worth the effort of getting out of bed.

While at YRYH we endured a tropical disturbance that could have been much worse. With wind constantly blowing hard, gusts to 40mph, and hard rain all day, we discovered a couple of good leaks. Nothing that we couldn’t quickly stop, although they did require some creativity to overcome. Wind and rain found the weak spots, duct tape and a plastic bag stemmed the leaks until a proper fix was done the following dry day.

 The next morning brought an end to bad weather and we started that day with sunny skies and pleasant temps. It’s been a long time since we’ve experienced mid 70º temps, we’re actually wearing pants. Nice.

So after a few days of weather, both good and bad, we untied and pulled out of York River.

We like YRYH and they’ve made many changes for the better. As we did a few years ago, we’ve decided to book our slip there on a monthly so we’ll return from time to time, making this our base on the Bay. It’s a nicely tucked away marina that will make for a decent hiding hole in a blow. (we hope)

Our 90 mile run from YRYH to Solomons was nice and smooth. On the way up we passed through the fleet of commercial fishing boats from Reedville. We assume the Menhaden must be schooling up.

Now, everyone’s attention is on Hurricane Irma. Our intentions are to hang here for a few more days and take care of some biz. Then move on to Herrington Harbour and Annapolis, if we don’t have to head back to York River to hide out.
We’d like to visit old friends over at St Micheal’s and stop at a few more little port towns along the Eastern Shore before heading back, but we’ll see.

Damn, it seems every hurricane update brings even worse news for everyone on the East Coast, time will tell.

Fake News? Don’t bet on that.

Fingers crossed for now.

Adios,

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

CRUISING IN THE IONIAN SEA

Envoy is now cruising around Zakynthos Island with our daughter Amy aboard.
Before Frank and Marie left us we saw this stunning Maltese cruise ship

When we started our water maker for the first time this season it ran fine but the second time it had some problems. The salinity was high, the fresh water produced seemed warmer than usual and the pump rpm varied by about plus or minus 5 bar. I don’t know what it is about water makers but lots of cruisers seem to have issues with them. While in Mandraki Marina technician Angelos made a few checks and cleaned the intake water seacock but it made little difference. We met him a few days later and he installed a new high pressure membrane. This also made no improvement so he removed the main pump to check in his workshop. We’re awaiting the result of this and meanwhile having no problems finding plenty of free fresh water from the shore.


Angelos installing a new high pressure membrane


The water maker’s main pump


After Frank and Marie departed at Mandraki we cruised down to Igoumenitsa Creek for a couple of nights and met up with our friends Bruce and Lesley aboard their catamaran, Midi. Also aboard were their friends Nick and Robyn who know other friends of ours from home – Christine Eden and Karl Koller. A small world as they say.

Igoumenitsa Creek is a great protected anchorage


Washing day aboard Midi


Bruce and Lesley had wintered Midi at Turkey’s Albatross Marina near normally busy Marmaris and they confirmed what we’d heard – that it’s all very quiet there now as cruisers and charter operators have left in droves. This is due to a combination of recent terrorist activities, a perception of political change and instability and negative changes to cruising regulations. We’ve had wonderful times cruising in Turkey and it’s very sad to hear that conditions are now less favourable.

Spending a night anchored off Mourtos was not so enjoyable usual because of large numbers of local tripper boats traveling at high speed close-by and putting up large wakes. Home in NZ you’re not allowed to exceed 5 knots within 200 metres of the shore or within 50 metres of a swimmer or another vessel, but no such regulations seem to exist here and we saw tripper boats at high speed within a few metres of people in kayaks and small dinghys.
Lots of people do bow riding here – a practice which is illegal in New Zealand due to horrific injuries and deaths when people fall in and the propeller hits them

Highly dangerous bow riding


Amy joined us on 1 August in Corfu for a six week stay. She has now finished living in London and will move back to Auckland later this year.
We normally swim at least three times daily in the beautiful 26 to 28dC water but our “swim” normally consists of a leisurely paddle around the boat. Amy had an excellent idea that she and I start some long distance swimming and this has been great with us now achieving swims of several hundred metres.
We headed south with Amy calling at favorite places like Petriti, Mourtos, Gaios, Loggos and Parga and spending the days strolling ashore, swimming and cruising the short distances. 

Beautiful garden bar at Petriti

They sell a selection of hand painted olive oil jars for just five Euros each


Below the bar is this awesome swimming cove


Most everywhere has been light winds and seas so calm that we didn’t use our stabilisers for days. But that changed when we cruised 32 miles in five hours from Parga to Preveza. We had winds over 25 knots and breaking, closely spaced two to three metre seas on our starboard beam. The stabilisers had trouble coping with these waves and several times we had to “tack” to take the seas at more of an angle to the beam. At times the autopilot also had trouble coping with the vicious movements and I had to steer by hand for a few short periods. Normally Envoy is so stable that it would be rare to spill a coffee – but on this trip the cups sure were sliding!

Close-by to Preveza we found a bay called Panayaia that we’d never visited previously. It’s well sheltered with a nice uncrowded beach and a rustic beach bar playing a good selection of music from blues to jazz to reggae. It’s owned by friendly 30 year old Manioti born in Melbourne to Greek parents who came back to live in Greece and we enjoyed meeting him for a chat over a few cold beers.

Manioti’s beach bar


Envoy at anchor viewed from bar


Manioti with Amy and Laurie


Laurie and Amy enjoy a cold beer


From there we headed through the canal that makes Lefkas an island and into the marina to get a temporary Plexiglas window fitted as so far we’ve not been able to locate a supplier for a new Triplex glass one. While maneuvering into the marina we jammed the tail end of our RHIB’s painter in the bow thruster’s propeller and couldn’t use it, making for an interesting time berthing in the confined marina spaces. Next day a diver tried unsuccessfully to free the painter so we had to lift Envoy out of the water and were then able to free it quite quickly. Unfortunately the bow thruster’s sudden stop caused some damage to the 24V motor so it’s been removed and is currently ashore getting repaired while we carried on. We’ve since heard that it’s successfully fixed.

Rope jammed behind bow thruster propeller

Laying Up at AYB

Sunrise – Atlantic Yacht Basin

Yes, we finally escaped the current at Morehead City Yacht Basin and made a short day’s run to River Dunes Marina in Oriental, NC — though not without incident. A storm followed us almost all the way and finally caught up just before we pulled into River Dunes. Running from inside a protected pilot house heavy rain is never a problem, however lightning is a different story. Waiting out the blinding rain storm before easing into the skinny little creek that leads to the marina, thunder and lightning soon became the issues to deal with.

In all the years and all the miles of doing this, we’ve never had any problems with lightning; been in plenty of storms, but suffered nothing worse than the anxiety it brings.
Then,  finally,  a loud bang, a flash, and we realized we’d been hit or almost anyway.

Sonar, chartplotter, and radar screens blinked then rebooted, I turned to head back out to the Neuse River and deeper water, then started working to bring back some electronics. Luckily, we’ve redundant nav systems on-board and our computer driven system was not affected. Charts and AIS were still running, but we had no depth info.

After a few minutes I had depth coming from sonar, but oddly enough no sonar screen – just the numbers. That was enough to get into the marina so we turned back to the entry point and headed in.
Things could have definitely been worse and we’ve heard many stories that were. We slowly motored into River Dunes basin and saw a beautiful marina with Rich, the harbormaster, waving at us from our dock.
The rain had stopped and the storm had moved on. The rest of the night was quiet as I went about going through all the affected systems.

With all the redundancies aboard I was able to put together a working nav system and we pulled out the next morning, heading for Belhaven, NC and River Forest Marina.

Another cool little town. The docks at River Forest are old, but the electricity is stable and the depths are good. The dockmaster’s name is Henry Boyd III. He and a group of Belhaven citizens bought the marina out of bankruptcy. They’re slowly rebuilding the docks, but the lovely old southern manor next door was brought back to mint condition. Henry and his crew are very proud of the project and love to talk about it. They also loaned us a golf cart and gave us directions to town for dinner. Spoon River Art Works and Market is a fine restaurant. The local Black Drum was killer. The place was crowded.

That evening we went through another storm, but other than rolling us around for a few minutes there were no problems. We ended the day with a peaceful sunset

The next morning we made way to Coinjock to spend the night. Coinjock is Coinjock. No, we didn’t get the steak, but the soft shell craps were very good.

Then, AYB. We always stop here and throw a bit of money at James Taylor’s crew. They do good work and this time we may need to take advantage of that.

All in all, we did okay, as far as storm damage goes.
Our main GPS was acting up, but after a reset it came back for the most part. It now shows us running at .05 knots while at the dock, but it’s position seems to be okay. We have several ways to get GPS info so that doesn’t stop the show.
One of our depth sounder transducers is dead.
Both Raymarine displays are blinky.
Ironically, the Sirius Weather Receiver was fried and has yet to return.
By far the most expensive damage is the KVH Satellite TV dish. It’s toast.

I called our insurance company, and inquired about making a claim. They’ve since sent out a surveyor who thinks the damages are worse than I do. He explained how lightning causes crazy intermittent problems that usually show up at critical times. He’s probably correct.

So, here we are, laying up at AYB, waiting to hear back from several folks.

There’s good friends tied up just behind us and it’s nice catching up with them.

For some reason we’ve always liked it here. Always little projects to do and AYB has the essential supplies to get them done.

We’re thinking The Chesapeake Bay will be our next leg, but news of Sea Nettles (Jelly Fish) may change that. The Bay full of Nettles is not uncommon this time of year. They clog sea strainers and stop air conditioning; not good in 90º heat .

And, as they so often are, our plans are still peculating.

Life’s good ~

Cheers,

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

Return to Seattle

We left Dirona in Scotland, with Spitfire at “The Resort”, while we returned to Seattle for a couple of weeks. This mostly was a work trip for James, but we did find time to enjoy the city, make a day trip to Victoria, and receive and pack over 200 pounds of boat spares to bring…

CRUISING NEAR CORFU WITH FRANK AND MARIE

Envoy is now cruising around the Ionian Sea with our daughter Amy aboard for a six week stay.
I’m going to add photos tomorrow.
I forgot to mention in our last posting that due to our delayed departure from Lefkas we were able to meet up with long-time friends Kevin and Diane O’Sullivan and family, who were starting a week-long yacht charter from Lefkas. We had a great dinner and, as I’ve often mentioned, the taverna owners nearly always give you something for free – in this case dessert. After we paid the bill and walked back about a kilometre to the marina the taverna owner came up to us on his motor scooter; “my friends … I’m so sorry … I forgot to give you this gift.” He handed over free bottle of wine and one of olive oil.
Our first night out anchored at Two Rock Bay we had a problem. I normally check the condition of Envoy’s start battery bank at the beginning of each season and this becomes increasingly important as the batteries age. Checking the voltage isn’t sufficient – it’s necessary to use a load tester, a device which most marine electricians have that places a significant load on the battery and monitors the result. When we ran Envoy’s Lugger engine for the first time in June after seven months of non-use it started instantly and I assumed the battery bank must be OK. I had asked an electrician to load test the batteries but despite repeated calls he never showed and as our cruising had already been delayed by two months we really wanted to get cruising so I decided to forget the test – big mistake! The second time I ran the engine it was a slow start. The third time I had our generator running powering our Freedom Combi inverter/battery charger. This charger is an older unit dating from 2002 and doesn’t have all the safety systems that a more recent unit would have. Because the start battery bank was down in capacity the start process drew too much load from the charger blowing a relay and causing some internal printed circuit board damage. Damn it!
We went on to Corfu’s Gouvia marina where Leonardo, an electrician we know well, did a load test and found our battery bank down to 60 per cent capacity. He also pointed out that since our batteries were six years old this was not surprising. So the result of not doing the battery test was we damaged our inverter/charger and had to spend a couple of cruising days sourcing and installing new start batteries – all because we broke our own rules.
The new battery bank consisting of two Optima 975A batteries is performing well and Leonardo installed our spare Xantrex 3Kw inverter (which doesn’t have a charger) while we try to get the Freedom Combi repaired in Athens. He’s also fitted an automatic transfer relay so that if the generator is started while the inverter is running AC power is only sourced from the generator. Meanwhile for battery charging with the generator we’re using our AC-powered Charles 60 amp charger that we normally use only on shore power.
Once these issues were sorted we spent a few great days cruising around bays close to Corfu. At Kalami we met Kiwi sailors Alistair and Nichola plus their dog Tiny aboard Bavaria 47 Tiny Nical.
On 12 July Frank and Marie Curulli joined us at Corfu for their third Envoy cruise. We were originally going to meet them in Malta but Envoy’s fire damage spoiled those plans so Frank and Marie went by themselves to Malta, Sicily and Stromboli, where Frank’s Dad came from.
Unfortunately Marie’s luggage didn’t arrive but never mind – this was a perfect excuse for Marie and Di to hit the Corfu shops. Her luggage showed up two days later.
Frank and I go back a long way as we met as 15 year-old surf lifesavers and since then have enjoyed with our families numerous great boating, diving, camping and four-wheel driving holidays and adventures. This was another one with two weeks going all too quickly in perfect sunny and calm conditions. We visited some places that we’ve been to previously – Kalami, O Ay Stefanos, Petriti, Sivota, Parga and Gaios but also two new places.
The first was Loggos on Paxxos Island where it’s often too uncomfortable to anchor. This is a small but stunning village with several great quirky shops and very friendly locals. In the evening after an excellent meal ashore we visited an art exhibition being held in a disused former olive oil soap factory.
The second was Corfu’s village of Levkimmi reached by using our RHIB to navigate a shallow two kilometre canal from the sea. We only stayed here a couple of hours but were very impressed by the canal-side atmosphere and tranquility – not to mention great cakes from the bakery!
For Frank and Marie’s last night we went into Corfu’s Mandraki Marina for the first time (as Gouvia was full). This is a small but highly atmospheric marina right below the Corfu Castle’s north side. For the first time ever we were asked to berth bow first and this meant we could only disembark using the RHIB as our bow was too high up to use a plank to step down onto the jetty. The marina wall is only about a metre above sea level so waves regularly break over it and we understand the marina is untenable in strong northerlies – a yacht being wrecked there just last year. Above the marina behind the castle’s imposing walls is the Ionian University School of Music and were able to listen to some practice sessions as well as a full-blown concert.
So after two great weeks Frank and Marie left us here on 26/7.

Eclipse 2017

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

[KensBlog 2017-07] Tribune Bay


It’s funny how you can be surprised on a boat. We were looking for a place to drop anchor while running south to Nanaimo and noticed a horseshoe shaped island (Hornby Island) that seemed like it had a nice big anchorage in the middle. At first we ruled it out because it was wide open to the south and the cruising guides said the anchorage could be dangerous in a south wind. The forecast was for wind from the Northwest only, which meant the wind shouldn’t be a problem. That said, we’ve been foo…
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Tides In Our favor

After a nice couple of days in Georgetown, the weather settled and we continued our trip north.Leaving Georgetown, SC was a trip. Inside the little harbor things were calm, a bit of current, but as soon as we made it into Winyah Bay the tidal surge gra…

[KensBlog 2017-07] Tribune Bay


It’s funny how you can be surprised on a boat. We were looking for a place to drop anchor while running south to Nanaimo and noticed a horseshoe shaped island (Hornby Island) that seemed like it had a nice big anchorage in the middle. At first we ruled it out because it was wide open to the south and the cruising guides said the anchorage could be dangerous in a south wind. The forecast was for wind from the Northwest only, which meant the wind shouldn’t be a problem. That said, we’ve been foo…

[KensBlog 2017-07] Tribune Bay

It’s funny how you can be surprised on a boat. We were looking for a place to drop anchor while running south to Nanaimo and noticed a horseshoe shaped island (Hornby Island) that seemed like it had a nice big anchorage in the middle. At first we rul…