Over the next several blog postings we’re going to describe ten of our favourite eastern Med destinations. This is based on the point of view of the cruiser rather than the tourist, for example Santorini is very special but not a great place for cruising having limited shelter and facilities.
The selection was a very tough choice – it’s easy to make a list of our favourite 20, but not so easy to narrow it down. So that you know what’s coming up, these places are, from east to west:
TURKEY – The Kekova Roads and Snake Island/English Harbour
GREECE – Simi, Astipalaia, north-east coast of Crete, Cephalonia and Corfu
CROATIA – Korcula
ITALY – Cefalu and Trapani/Egadi Islands
All of these places are not just isolated magical spots but parts of broader regions of considerable interest. Some areas aren’t featured as we haven’t cruised there – eg North Africa, France, Spain and Portugal and some not, including destinations in Albania and Montenegro, as we feel they just don’t have that magic combination of factors, and we haven’t attempted “political correctness” by including some from each visited country.
For interest some destinations that came close, but finally missed out were Kotor in Montenegro, and Lesvos, Monemvasia, Amorgos and Kavala/The Three Fingers in Greece.
Destination 1: The Kekova Roads
Where is it:
Part of the famed Turquoise Coast on Turkey’s south-east coast. To the east is Finike and to the west is Kas, Kalkan, Fethiye and the tiny Greek island of Katellorizon.
How long is required to enjoy here?: Several days.
Brief outline:
A strait protected by uninhabited four-mile-long Kekova Island with several islets offering anchorages sheltered from all wind directions. See Lycian tombs, sunken ancient ruins, a Byzantine hilltop fortress, a picturesque village, stunning natural scenery, rustic tavernas.
One must do:
Climb the summit behind Kalekoy to explore the Crusader castle ruins and enjoy panoramic views of the area.
This map of Kekova Roads shows why it’s so special
It’s logical that we start this series with Turkey’s Kokova Roads as this is where we joined my brother in 2005 for a brief cruise aboard his yacht, Acrobat, and made our decision to buy our own Med-based boat.
Our first night we anchor in the pristine waters of a perfectly sheltered bay inside Asirli Island, close to a rustic, atmospheric bar called The Smugglers Inn, which in our part of the world would never get building consent or health and safety approvals. It doesn’t open until 2200 hours and we go there after dinner for what turns out to be a very late night. The always friendly and concerned Turks insist on escorting us safely back to Envoy and join us aboard for a nightcap.
Next morning we eventually appear and take the dinghy to Kalekoy to climb precarious steps to the summit of the 15th century castle built by the Knights of St John Crusaders on the foundations of an already existing ancient fort. Several unofficial lady guides offer their services in return for the purchase of cheap trinkets which we happily buy in return for some interesting local knowledge. The site was first occupied around 400 BC and there are many ruins and long since ransacked tombs dating from Lycian times, including some adjacent to Kekova Island submerged by earthquakes and able to be viewed from glass-bottomed boats.
Looking down on Kalekoy from the castle summit
Wild goats roam among Lycian tombs long ago robbed of valuables
On the northern shore lies the picturesque fishing village of Ucagiz where we go ashore to replenish some supplies, enjoy coffees in a taverna and wander through a traditional carpet shop. Most of the locals have made no concession to modern dress and appear unchanged from how their great grandparents probably looked.
Nearby is the village of Demre where apostle Saint Paul stopped over on his voyage to Rome and where in the 4th century the Bishop of the Church was Saint Nicholas who’s alter ego was “Santa Claus”. His remains stayed there until 1043 when some Italian adventurers removed them to Italy where they still lie. Legend has it that Saint Nicholas threw bags of gold down a chimney to save three sisters from a life of prostitution and this is how the Santa Claus tradition started. Turks are of course Muslim, but they too have Santa complete with red costume and white beard as part of their New Year celebrations.
Looking to the castle summit from seaward
Looking up the large channel between Kekova Island and the mainland
FOR FOODIES Gozlemes are a traditional savory flatbread similar to a pancake, made from hand-rolled dough and cooked in a heavy frying pan or griddle. Traditionally they had numerous varieties of fillings ranging through meats, fish, vegetables, cheeses, herbs and spices, but nowadays sweet fillings including banana with honey are increasingly popular. Recipe to serve four: 2½ cups plain flour, 1 teaspoon salt, ⅓ cup olive oil, ¾ cup water. Make the dough by sifting the flour and salt in a large bowl. Add the water and oil and mix to combine. Lift out the dough and knead on your bench top for 10 minutes until silky smooth. Let the dough rest back in the bowl for 20 minutes. Divide the dough into four equal pieces and roll out thinly. Add the topping to two of the rolled-out pieces and place the other two pieces on top as covers. Brush olive oil into a frying pan at medium to high heat and cook for 5-6 minutes each side until golden brown and crisp. Serve sizzling hot with lemon. Warning: gozlemes are habit-forming!
Turkish couple row their ancient wooden dinghy around moored boats cooking gozlemes to order
