At latitude 54°48′ S, Ushuaia is the earth’s southernmost city and bills itself as the “end of the world”. (Port Williams in Chile is actually further south, but has a much smaller population and is classified as a town.) Ushuaia’s population initially was not Argentinian, but British. The city was founded in the 1800s by…
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Second Trip to Marina Costa Baja, Day 17
On Wednesday morning (February 15), Christi and Keith finished washing the boat. They also went back over the parts they’d done on Tuesday to remove the layer of residue that had already formed. We had a late lunch the Spanish … Continue reading →
Feb. 17 – Old San Juan, PR
“Travel has a way of stretching the mind. The stretch comes not from travel’s immediate rewards, the inevitable myriad of new sights, smells and sounds, but with experiencing firsthand how others do differently what we believed to be the right and only way.” —Ralph Crawshaw
Like yesterday, we tried to visit places we didn’t see on our first visit. We wandered through town taking in the sights and history of the town. Today’s post is some of the history we learned.
Catedral Basilica Menor de San Juan Bautista is the second oldest church in the Western Hemisphere and the oldest church on U.S. soil. The history of the church dates to 1521 and the beginning of the Spanish colonization of the island. The original church was demolished by a hurricane and the current structure dates to 1540. The elegant gothic facade has evolved over centuries. It’s the final resting place of Juan Ponce de León, the first governor of Puerto Rico.
The church is located on Cristo Street, just a short walk from the San Juan Gate. It was the first stop for many travelers who landed on the island and walked into the city through its only seaside entry. Sailors and travelers visited San Juan Bautista as soon as they got off the boat so they could thank God for a safe voyage.
The sculpture La Rogativa (the procession) tells the story of Puerto Rican patriotism. The monument, located in Plazuela La Rogativa near the San Juan Gate, commemorates one of the most evocative legends of the island. When the British attacked Old San Juan in 1797, a quick-thinking priest took it upon himself to lead the outnumbered soldiers and civilians on a religious procession through the city. Apparently the British mistook the citizens’ prayer march for reinforcements and abandoned their attack.
Just one picture of the beautiful streets of OSJ.
Save A Gato (SAG) was created in 2004 to address the booming cat population around historic Old San Juan, particularly around the Paseo del Morro pathway. SAG is the only non-profit organization that has an agreement with The National Park Service to manage a colony of cats on national park land. Trap, neuter and return (TNR) has worked wonderfully to reduce the size of the cat colony around El Morro by 50% since 2004.
Views from the city wall. Looking south to the La Fortaleza and the governor’s mansion and looking north to the El Morro and Casa Rosa.
Quincentennial Square – built in honor of Columbus’ first voyage.
La Perla (The Pearl) was named after a little Spanish fort that once stood there. It’s a historical shanty town astride the northern historic city wall of Old San Juan stretching about 650 yards along the rocky Atlantic coast immediately east of the Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery. The community has a lot of history and perhaps the most unique on the island. It was originally the site of a slaughterhouse built in the 18th century. Slaves, the homeless and non-white servants were required to live outside the city walls, so that was the beginning of homes being built here. Back in those days, living on the water was for the poor and landless.
Even before Hurricane Maria hit Puerto Rico, La Perla started painting its houses in bright colors and adding murals to the squares to improve the looks of their community. The neighborhood has a history of crime and isn’t a place we would go after dark, but we felt very safe at the restaurant and walking along the waterfront. Locals don’t seem to bother tourists if they are respectful, stay close to the water and don’t take individual photos of their homes.
La Garita gives diners the best view in OSJ while enjoying a great meal.
It was a perfect day to enjoy a few Mojitos and a little seafood. I don’t think we could have found a better view anywhere on the island.
The colorful homes of La Perla.
The views from the waterfront.
Looking west to El Morro.
Feb. 17 – Old San Juan, PR
“Travel has a way of stretching the mind. The stretch comes not from travel’s immediate rewards, the inevitable myriad of new sights, smells and sounds, but with experiencing firsthand how others do differently what we believed to be the right and only way.” —Ralph Crawshaw
Like yesterday, we tried to visit places we didn’t see on our first visit. We wandered through town taking in the sights and history of the town. Today’s post is some of the history we learned.
Feb. 16 – Old San Juan, PR
“It is not the destination where you end up, but the mishaps and memories you create along the way.” ~Penelope Riley
Old San Juan has a lot to see and do, and we covered a lot of it on our first trip in 2020. This time we’re wandering, at a slower pace, taking in some of the sites we didn’t see then.
This was our favorite place for breakfast on our first trip. It’s a little kiosk in Plaza de Armas just a block from the apartment.
Looking up our street early in the morning before the traffic and tourists arrived.
After breakfast we walked along the harbor. Taking in the views from the park that runs along the water. This is where the cruise ships dock. Luckily today there was only one ship in port. We saw this pretty seahorse statue, but there was no info on it.
Casa Blanca was the first governor’s residence in Puerto Rico. It was built in 1521 and served as the first fortification of the San Juan islet. It was the residence for Juan Ponce de León and his family, although de Leon died in an expedition to Florida without ever getting to occupy the structure. It was used as the residence of his descendants, until the mid-18th century. This is the gate into the property.
This pretty home was built later and surrounded by beautiful gardens.
This was the original home. Parts of it have been restored and are open for viewing. It’s hard to believe the buildings in Old San Juan are so old. Even harder to imagine all the people who have spent time walking these same streets.
A few pictures of the inside of the original home.
Each room in the home had views like this of the San Juan inlet and harbor.
Part of the grounds close to the newer home.
Looking up at Casa Blanca from the city wall.
This is the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture. We were able to walk through the building. It’s full of government offices. The views from the upper patio were amazing.
From the top of the building looking towards Castillo San Felipe del Morro and it’s lighthouse. We visited this site in 2020.
Later in the afternoon I did a little shopping on Calle de la Fortaleza (Fortress Street).
We’ve been enjoying the fresh seafood and Puerto Rican specialties all week, but tonight we found a wonderful little Italian place for dinner. Bacaro has about ten tables, very intimate, and the food was amazingly good. I had the Spaghetti Carbonara and Stan had the special fish of the day.
Second Trip to Marina Costa Baja, Days 15 – 16
On Monday, February 13, the half-full moon rose not long before the sun did, and was shining brightly in the pre-dawn glow. We tried to catch the 1310 shuttle to town. We left Kosmos at 1302. We got to marina … Continue reading →
Feb. 16 – Old San Juan, PR
“It is not the destination where you end up, but the mishaps and memories you create along the way.” ~Penelope Riley
Old San Juan has a lot to see and do, and we covered a lot of it on our first trip in 2020. This time we’re wandering, at a slower pace, taking in some of the sites we didn’t see then.
This was our favorite place for breakfast on our first trip. It’s a little kiosk in Plaza de Armas just a block from the apartment.
Falkland Islands
Falkland Islands
The Falklands Islands are an archipelago off the southern tip of South America. There are more than 740 islands, most of them uninhabited. The population is less than 4,000, with more than half in the capital, Port Stanley. Since there are so few people, many species of animals, mainly seabirds, breed on the islands. The total land area is about 4500 square miles, most on East and West Falkland Islands. The Falklands are a windy environment, with poor soil and few native trees, mostly low shrubs. However, oil and gas have been discovered, but the cost of extraction compared to the price of oil has not justified exploitation to date. Also, there is a water shortage on the islands, barely enough to support the current population. There are some sheep farms, producing high quality wool and meat, but the sheep require more than double the acreage per sheep compared to other sheep producing areas, so it is not a large industry.
The isolation of the islands, and ongoing disputes over sovereignty between Argentina and the UK, including the infamous 74 day war in 1982, when Argentina invaded the islands, but were ultimately defeated by the UK, means there are few flights, only one per week at the current time. The flight is staged out of Chile, since Argentina will not allow flights from Argentina to the Falkland Islands and sometimes flights to there are denied entry into Argentinian airspace.
Our reasons for stopping in the Falkland Islands included more wildlife encounters, with several new species of penguins possible, other species of seabirds, touring the city of Port Stanley, a little piece of Britain overseas, and learning about the history, including european discoveries and claims, settlements and ultimately disputes over who owns the archipelago.
Thursday, February 16, 2023 – Port Stanley
After two days at seas, with some rough seas and high winds, Seabourn Quest entered the anchorage off of Port Stanley at 0700 and anchored about one mile from the tender dock. The inner harbor is too small for our ship, so were tendered in by the ship’s tenders. Clearance took some time, so shore excursions were all delayed. Miriam elected to remain on board while Patrick went on a 7 hour wildlife encounter via 4×4 vehicles.
The encounter took place at Seal Bay, on the north coast of East Falkland Island. After a one hour drive we headed off road in seven 4×4 vehicles containing either 3 or 4 passengers. The terrain was across extensive peat bogs and even across shallow lakes until we reached the cliffs along the coast. Our first stop provided views of Rockhopper Penguins, Imperial Cormorants, Upland Geese, Caracara’s and Skuas. The second stop was down on the beach where we visited a Gentoo Penguin colony and had a snack before heading back to the ship. Due to the clearance delays and the length of the tour, we barely made the last scheduled tender back to the ship, so had limited views of Port Stanley.
Lonely Gentoo penguin chick on beach
Imperial Cormorant Chick being fed by parent
Rockhopper Penguin
Friday, February 17, 2023 – New Island
New Island is a nature conservancy on the far western edge of the archipelago. It is home to more than 40 species of birds. Seabourn Quest anchored in one of the eastern bays, sheltered from the wind and commenced operations at 0730, with both Zodiac tours ashore and kayaking. Patrick went kayaking, seeing Magellanic Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Imperial Cormorants, Peale’s Dolphins, Giant Southern Petrels, Prions, Caracara’s, and an abandoned whaling station and the group was even followed by an Elephant Seal. Following the Kayak tour, the zodiac trip ashore to a beautiful sandy beach followed a 1 kilometer marked path to an incredible Black Browed Albatross rookery, with many young chicks. Mixed in with the albatrosses were more Rockhopper Penguins, Caracara’s, Peregrine Falcons and several species of Shags, more Upland Geese and several other bird species such as Thrushes, Prions and Kelp Geese,
Black Browed Albatross Chick
Wreck on Beach at New Island
Rockhopper Penguin – New Island
Upland Geese – New Island
Rockhopper Penguin – New Island
Caracara – New Island
Albatross Chick – New Island
Kelp Goose – New Island
Kelp Gull – New Island
By noon everyone who wanted to go ashore had done so, the anchor was weighed and we set course for the 1000 NM voyage to Montevideo, Uruguay. As we left, there were dozens of Sei whales close to the ship, more dolphins and many Southern Fur Seals.
Falkland Islands
Falkland Islands
The Falklands Islands are an archipelago off the southern tip of South America. There are more than 740 islands, most of them uninhabited. The population is less than 4,000, with more than half in the capital, Port Stanley. Since there are so few people, many species of animals, mainly seabirds, breed on the islands. The total land area is about 4500 square miles, most on East and West Falkland Islands. The Falklands are a windy environment, with poor soil and few native trees, mostly low shrubs. However, oil and gas have been discovered, but the cost of extraction compared to the price of oil has not justified exploitation to date. Also, there is a water shortage on the islands, barely enough to support the current population. There are some sheep farms, producing high quality wool and meat, but the sheep require more than double the acreage per sheep compared to other sheep producing areas, so it is not a large industry.
The isolation of the islands, and ongoing disputes over sovereignty between Argentina and the UK, including the infamous 74 day war in 1982, when Argentina invaded the islands, but were ultimately defeated by the UK, means there are few flights, only one per week at the current time. The flight is staged out of Chile, since Argentina will not allow flights from Argentina to the Falkland Islands and sometimes flights to there are denied entry into Argentinian airspace.
Our reasons for stopping in the Falkland Islands included more wildlife encounters, with several new species of penguins possible, other species of seabirds, touring the city of Port Stanley, a little piece of Britain overseas, and learning about the history, including european discoveries and claims, settlements and ultimately disputes over who owns the archipelago.
Thursday, February 16, 2023 – Port Stanley
After two days at seas, with some rough seas and high winds, Seabourn Quest entered the anchorage off of Port Stanley at 0700 and anchored about one mile from the tender dock. The inner harbor is too small for our ship, so were tendered in by the ship’s tenders. Clearance took some time, so shore excursions were all delayed. Miriam elected to remain on board while Patrick went on a 7 hour wildlife encounter via 4×4 vehicles.
The encounter took place at Seal Bay, on the north coast of East Falkland Island. After a one hour drive we headed off road in seven 4×4 vehicles containing either 3 or 4 passengers. The terrain was across extensive peat bogs and even across shallow lakes until we reached the cliffs along the coast. Our first stop provided views of Rockhopper Penguins, Imperial Cormorants, Upland Geese, Caracara’s and Skuas. The second stop was down on the beach where we visited a Gentoo Penguin colony and had a snack before heading back to the ship. Due to the clearance delays and the length of the tour, we barely made the last scheduled tender back to the ship, so had limited views of Port Stanley.
Lonely Gentoo penguin chick on beach
Imperial Cormorant Chick being fed by parent
Rockhopper Penguin
Friday, February 17, 2023 – New Island
New Island is a nature conservancy on the far western edge of the archipelago. It is home to more than 40 species of birds. Seabourn Quest anchored in one of the eastern bays, sheltered from the wind and commenced operations at 0730, with both Zodiac tours ashore and kayaking. Patrick went kayaking, seeing Magellanic Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Imperial Cormorants, Peale’s Dolphins, Giant Southern Petrels, Prions, Caracara’s, and an abandoned whaling station and the group was even followed by an Elephant Seal. Following the Kayak tour, the zodiac trip ashore to a beautiful sandy beach followed a 1 kilometer marked path to an incredible Black Browed Albatross rookery, with many young chicks. Mixed in with the albatrosses were more Rockhopper Penguins, Caracara’s, Peregrine Falcons and several species of Shags, more Upland Geese and several other bird species such as Thrushes, Prions and Kelp Geese,
Black Browed Albatross Chick
Wreck on Beach at New Island
Rockhopper Penguin – New Island
Upland Geese – New Island
Rockhopper Penguin – New Island
Caracara – New Island
Albatross Chick – New Island
Kelp Goose – New Island
Kelp Gull – New Island
By noon everyone who wanted to go ashore had done so, the anchor was weighed and we set course for the 1000 NM voyage to Montevideo, Uruguay. As we left, there were dozens of Sei whales close to the ship, more dolphins and many Southern Fur Seals.
Antarctica Cruise Ship Accidents
In Choose Your Cruise Operator Carefully, we discussed the risks inherent in an Antarctic cruise, and described the three deaths that had occurred in the course of two weeks near the start of the 2022-2023 cruise season. It turns out there was actually four deaths in that period. The situation has become serious enough that…
