Tag Archives | trawler

 Brazil Part 1

 

Ilhabela, Rio de Janeiro and Armacao dos Buzios

 

February 25, 2023

 

After several days at sea, we arrived at Ilhabela, on Sao Sabastiono Island, south of Rio de Janeiro about 200 NM.

 

Ilhabela means “beautiful island” and is famous for gorgeous beaches, dense tropical forests and hundreds of waterfalls.  Before the Portugal colonized Brazil in 1500, the island was the home of an indigenous tribe called Tupinambas.  These people called the island “Ciribai” which means tranquil place.  The island is now a resort playground for both Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, with several large marinas and many small hotels.  We anchored off of Ilhabela’s historic town center and tendered ashore for a variety of tours.  Patrick picked a 4×4 excursion to several waterfalls  and Currall Beach for a swim break.

 

Currall Beach

The water was warm and the surf low, so water entry was easy.  The beach was nice, but to get a seat or lounge chair one had to buy some drinks or food from the restaurants that controlled each section of the beach.  However, the prices were reasonable and the Caipirinha’s were good, so it was very acceptable.  Due to recent heavy rains and mudslides, one of the waterfalls was not accessible.  The historic city center is dominated by a church and naval museum and many small shops and restaurants.

 

Naval Museum

Historic Waterfront – Ilhabela

After a full day, Seabourn Quest headed for Rio de Janeiro, getting to the pilot station at 0230, and docking at the cruise terminal at 0430 on February 26 for an overnight stay.

 

February 26, 2023 – Rio de Janeiro

 

Rio de Janeiro literally means “River of January”, and is the 6^th most populated city in the Americas.  Part of the city has been designated as a World Heritage Site.  Rio was founded in 1565 by Portugal and in 1763 became the capital of the State of Brazil, a state in the Portuguese Empire.  From 1808 to 1822 it was actually the capital of the Portuguese empire under Queen Maria I and later her son Joao, who raised Brazil to the dignity of a kingdom, within the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves.  In 1822, the Brazilian war of independence began and Rio became the capital of the Kingdom of Brazil until 1889 and then the capital of the Republic of Brazil until 1960 when the capital was transferred to the new city of Brasilia.

 

Rio is known for beaches, landmarks such as the statue of Christ the Redeemer atop Corcovado mountain, Sugarloaf mountain with the cable car, Carnival, bossa nova music, and the samba.

 

The cruise terminal is located in the Gamboa district close to the original downtown area on Guanabara Bay. Guanabara Bay is reputed to be the largest bay in the world by volume.  We were only a few blocks from the Carnival Stadium and there were still several floats on the streets in the morning from the last night of Carnival, although smaller celebrations continued through the evening.  Patrick joined a Seabourn Ventures nature walk in the botanical gardens which back up to the Tijuca State Forest.

 

The drive to the gardens took 45 minutes.  Due to the many road closures for Carnival, we actually got a good look at many of the neighborhoods of Rio.  Our route included a trip through the tunnel bored through Corcovado Mountain which is dominated by the Christ the Redeemer statue at the very top.  The botanical gardens were started in the 1800’s by the king of Portugal and Brazil.  It is divided into many sections and more than half the species were imported as gifts to the king.  There was an extensive collection of orchids and 18 different species of palm trees.

 

Jackfruit or Durian

Royal Palms and Statue of gardens founder

Acai berries

Returning to the ship mid-afternoon we prepared for an evening gala event for those guests on the entire Grand Americas cruise.  The event was held at Casa das Canoas, designed by Oscar Niemeyer in 1951.  It is now an event venue but was originally a private residence perched high on the hills above the beaches in the Canoas neighborhood of Barra de Tijuca, a suburb of Rio.  Oscar Niemeyer is also the person who designed many of the public buildings in Brasilia, the purpose built capital of Brazil.  After appetizers, cocktails, dinner and a Carnival show, it was after 2300 when we finally returned to the ship.

 

February 27, 2023 – Rio de Janeiro

 

We left on a private city tour with a driver and guide at 0830 and headed first for the Corcovado cog railway to ascend the mountain and view the “Christ the Redeemer” statue at the top.  The crowds were already intense when we reached the end of the cog railway, which has new cars since we visited in 2008, and ascended the 220 steps to the top.  People were pretty good about giving everyone space to get their pictures of both the statue and the surrounding hills and beaches.  Returning to the bottom we headed to Sugar Loaf mountain and the two-stage aerial trams traveling 400 meters to the top.  The gondolas’s for the aerial trams are also new since our 2008 visit.  The views of the beaches and city were spectacular.  By the time we descended to the base once again it was time for lunch.  Our guide took us to the Copacabana Palace Hotel for a traditional Brazilian BBQ at the Churrascaria Palace, located across the street from the hotel just off the beach.  Here they bring around skewers of meats and for a fixed price you can eat as much of the different steaks, chicken, fish, sausages and other cuts of meat, as well as enjoying an extensive buffets of salads, other hot dishes and desserts.

 

Christ the Redeemer statue

Church of the Immaculate Conception

Following lunch we walked across the street to Copacabana beach and enjoyed the scenery before heading back to the ship, stopping for photos at several cathedrals and the very modern science museum close to the ship.  The Church of the Immaculate Conception is the home church that spurred the construction of the Christ the Redeemer statue.  We were unable to enter any museums since all museums in Rio are closed on Mondays.

 

The ship departed Rio at 2100, passing by Sugar Loaf and the domestic airport in near darkness, heading back out into the South Atlantic ocean for our next stop in the morning.

 

February 28, 2023 – Armacao dos Buzios

 

This small but upscale community stretches some 8 KM along the shore, with many beaches and small bays.  The former fishing village of Buzios became a favored destination for jet-setters with the visit of Bridgett Bardot in the 1960’s.  In the past the village was a focal point for slave traders, Portuguese and French pirates.  Today Buzios is one of the most charming destinations in the Brazil.

 

Seabourn Quest anchored about ¾ NM off the main harbor, filled with boats on moorings, and began tender operations shortly after 0800.  Patrick did a kayak tour, a real change from Antarctica and the Falklands since we could wear shorts, t-shirts and sandals with just a kayak vest rather than suit up in a dry suit.  We took a zodiac ride to a beach several KM west of town and entered the kayaks from the zodiacs.  Our route took us along the beaches back towards the main harbor, with birds, sea turtles, snorkelers, divers, water taxis, swimmers and an amazing variety of swimwear on the beach including what only be described as dental floss bikinis.  The wind had picked up and rounding the points into the next beaches was a lot of work in seas up to 3 feet.

 

The ship departed at 1500 with a sail away celebration around the pool in 90 degree clear skies.  The breeze kept it comfortable.

 

Later that evening we celebrated Miriam’s birthday in the Thomas Keller Grill, with a special cake arranged by Ruben, one of maitre’d’s on the ship who has been on several of our other cruises.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Brazil Part 1

 

Ilhabela, Rio de Janeiro and Armacao dos Buzios

 

February 25, 2023

 

After several days at sea, we arrived at Ilhabela, on Sao Sabastiono Island, south of Rio de Janeiro about 200 NM.

 

Ilhabela means “beautiful island” and is famous for gorgeous beaches, dense tropical forests and hundreds of waterfalls.  Before the Portugal colonized Brazil in 1500, the island was the home of an indigenous tribe called Tupinambas.  These people called the island “Ciribai” which means tranquil place.  The island is now a resort playground for both Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, with several large marinas and many small hotels.  We anchored off of Ilhabela’s historic town center and tendered ashore for a variety of tours.  Patrick picked a 4×4 excursion to several waterfalls  and Currall Beach for a swim break.

 

Currall Beach

The water was warm and the surf low, so water entry was easy.  The beach was nice, but to get a seat or lounge chair one had to buy some drinks or food from the restaurants that controlled each section of the beach.  However, the prices were reasonable and the Caipirinha’s were good, so it was very acceptable.  Due to recent heavy rains and mudslides, one of the waterfalls was not accessible.  The historic city center is dominated by a church and naval museum and many small shops and restaurants.

 

Naval Museum

Historic Waterfront – Ilhabela

After a full day, Seabourn Quest headed for Rio de Janeiro, getting to the pilot station at 0230, and docking at the cruise terminal at 0430 on February 26 for an overnight stay.

 

February 26, 2023 – Rio de Janeiro

 

Rio de Janeiro literally means “River of January”, and is the 6^th most populated city in the Americas.  Part of the city has been designated as a World Heritage Site.  Rio was founded in 1565 by Portugal and in 1763 became the capital of the State of Brazil, a state in the Portuguese Empire.  From 1808 to 1822 it was actually the capital of the Portuguese empire under Queen Maria I and later her son Joao, who raised Brazil to the dignity of a kingdom, within the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves.  In 1822, the Brazilian war of independence began and Rio became the capital of the Kingdom of Brazil until 1889 and then the capital of the Republic of Brazil until 1960 when the capital was transferred to the new city of Brasilia.

 

Rio is known for beaches, landmarks such as the statue of Christ the Redeemer atop Corcovado mountain, Sugarloaf mountain with the cable car, Carnival, bossa nova music, and the samba.

 

The cruise terminal is located in the Gamboa district close to the original downtown area on Guanabara Bay. Guanabara Bay is reputed to be the largest bay in the world by volume.  We were only a few blocks from the Carnival Stadium and there were still several floats on the streets in the morning from the last night of Carnival, although smaller celebrations continued through the evening.  Patrick joined a Seabourn Ventures nature walk in the botanical gardens which back up to the Tijuca State Forest.

 

The drive to the gardens took 45 minutes.  Due to the many road closures for Carnival, we actually got a good look at many of the neighborhoods of Rio.  Our route included a trip through the tunnel bored through Corcovado Mountain which is dominated by the Christ the Redeemer statue at the very top.  The botanical gardens were started in the 1800’s by the king of Portugal and Brazil.  It is divided into many sections and more than half the species were imported as gifts to the king.  There was an extensive collection of orchids and 18 different species of palm trees.

 

Jackfruit or Durian

Royal Palms and Statue of gardens founder

Acai berries

Returning to the ship mid-afternoon we prepared for an evening gala event for those guests on the entire Grand Americas cruise.  The event was held at Casa das Canoas, designed by Oscar Niemeyer in 1951.  It is now an event venue but was originally a private residence perched high on the hills above the beaches in the Canoas neighborhood of Barra de Tijuca, a suburb of Rio.  Oscar Niemeyer is also the person who designed many of the public buildings in Brasilia, the purpose built capital of Brazil.  After appetizers, cocktails, dinner and a Carnival show, it was after 2300 when we finally returned to the ship.

 

February 27, 2023 – Rio de Janeiro

 

We left on a private city tour with a driver and guide at 0830 and headed first for the Corcovado cog railway to ascend the mountain and view the “Christ the Redeemer” statue at the top.  The crowds were already intense when we reached the end of the cog railway, which has new cars since we visited in 2008, and ascended the 220 steps to the top.  People were pretty good about giving everyone space to get their pictures of both the statue and the surrounding hills and beaches.  Returning to the bottom we headed to Sugar Loaf mountain and the two-stage aerial trams traveling 400 meters to the top.  The gondolas’s for the aerial trams are also new since our 2008 visit.  The views of the beaches and city were spectacular.  By the time we descended to the base once again it was time for lunch.  Our guide took us to the Copacabana Palace Hotel for a traditional Brazilian BBQ at the Churrascaria Palace, located across the street from the hotel just off the beach.  Here they bring around skewers of meats and for a fixed price you can eat as much of the different steaks, chicken, fish, sausages and other cuts of meat, as well as enjoying an extensive buffets of salads, other hot dishes and desserts.

 

Christ the Redeemer statue

Church of the Immaculate Conception

Following lunch we walked across the street to Copacabana beach and enjoyed the scenery before heading back to the ship, stopping for photos at several cathedrals and the very modern science museum close to the ship.  The Church of the Immaculate Conception is the home church that spurred the construction of the Christ the Redeemer statue.  We were unable to enter any museums since all museums in Rio are closed on Mondays.

 

The ship departed Rio at 2100, passing by Sugar Loaf and the domestic airport in near darkness, heading back out into the South Atlantic ocean for our next stop in the morning.

 

February 28, 2023 – Armacao dos Buzios

 

This small but upscale community stretches some 8 KM along the shore, with many beaches and small bays.  The former fishing village of Buzios became a favored destination for jet-setters with the visit of Bridgett Bardot in the 1960’s.  In the past the village was a focal point for slave traders, Portuguese and French pirates.  Today Buzios is one of the most charming destinations in the Brazil.

 

Seabourn Quest anchored about ¾ NM off the main harbor, filled with boats on moorings, and began tender operations shortly after 0800.  Patrick did a kayak tour, a real change from Antarctica and the Falklands since we could wear shorts, t-shirts and sandals with just a kayak vest rather than suit up in a dry suit.  We took a zodiac ride to a beach several KM west of town and entered the kayaks from the zodiacs.  Our route took us along the beaches back towards the main harbor, with birds, sea turtles, snorkelers, divers, water taxis, swimmers and an amazing variety of swimwear on the beach including what only be described as dental floss bikinis.  The wind had picked up and rounding the points into the next beaches was a lot of work in seas up to 3 feet.

 

The ship departed at 1500 with a sail away celebration around the pool in 90 degree clear skies.  The breeze kept it comfortable.

 

Later that evening we celebrated Miriam’s birthday in the Thomas Keller Grill, with a special cake arranged by Ruben, one of maitre’d’s on the ship who has been on several of our other cruises.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Uruguay and Argentina

 

Monday, February 20, 2023 – Montevideo, Uruguay

 

After leaving the Falkland/Malvinas Islands we sailed for two days to our first landfall in South America since departing Punta Arenas, Chile on February 2.  The first stop was Montevideo, Uruguay on Monday, a national holiday, part of Carnaval.  Many, if not most shops were closed, but restaurants and bars were open.  That also meant no crowds.  Montevideo sits on the north side of the Rio de la Plata, first discovered by European explorers in 1516 while searching for a route from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean.  It is considered by some to be the widest river in the world, stretching some 140 miles at it’s widest point.

 

Montevideo and the River Plate (Rio de la Plata) is also the site of the first major naval battle of World War 2, which took place on 13 December 1939.  The German Battleship Graf Spee took sanctuary in Montevideo after a major battle with three British Cruisers, HMS Exeter, HMS Ajax and HMS Achilles.  Graf Spee heavily damaged both HMS Exeter and HMS Ajax and retired to the neutral port of Montevideo.  International rules dictate a warship can only remain in a neutral port for 24 hours, but Captain Hans Landsdorff extended the stay to 72 hours.  Fearing a major British fleet was waiting for him, Landsdorff took Graf Spee out into the Rio de la Plata and scuttled Graf Spee on 17 December 1939.  Fleeing to Buenos Aires, he took his own life four days later.  The wreckage was rediscovered in 2004 and the 27 ton optical rangefinder for the main gun turrets was recovered and is on display at the entrance to the port.

 

Montevideo is home to nearly half of the 3.5 million population of Uruguay, which became an independent nation in 1828.  Uruguay maintains strong ties with the UK, France and Italy.

 

The ship docks within walking distance of the central plaza in the old town so we were able to see many of the important sights without participating in a tour.

 

Most of the way from the port to the central plaza is closed to traffic and is a pedestrian walkway for about one mile from the port to the Plaza Independencia, or Independence Square, dominated by a large monument to General Jose Artigas (1764-1850), one of the political founders and heroes of Uruguay and the Rio de la Plata region.  The monument stands atop his mausoleum.  Along the way are several more plazas, a large cathedral and an imposing opera house.  Many of the older buildings are in ornate art deco style from early in the 1900’s.  Like many cities, there is graffiti and wall paintings everywhere.

 

Plaza Independencia

Produce Market

Main cathedral – Montevideo

Monument and mausoleum to General Artigas in Independence Plaza

The harbor is still home to many derelict fishing vessels, less than we saw in 2016.

 

Tuesday, February 21, 2023 – Buenos Aires, Argentina

 

After an overnight crossing of the Rio de la Plata, Seabourn Quest docked in Buenos Aires and by 0900 we were meeting the car, driver and guide that had been prearranged for us.  After a driving tour of some of the 26 neighborhoods which make up the city, as well as a shopping stop, we arrived at La Brigada restaurant in the San Telmo neighborhood.  La Brigada is famous for steaks that can be cut with a spoon.  There we met with two of Patrick’s classmates from the Stanford Sloan program who we had not seen since 2016 in Buenos Aires.  We reconnected during a leisurely delicious lunch, sampling several varieties of Argentine steaks.

Following lunch we returned to the port at 1600 and the ship sailed at 1700 for Punta del Este, Uruguay, our next destination.

 

Wednesday, February 22, 2023 – Punta del Este, Uruguay

 

Punta del Este is both a city and municipality on the eastern tip of the Rio de la Plata, and is known as the Monaco of the South.  The year round population is only about 10,000, but that number triples during the summer season.  There are broad beaches, sculptures such as La Mano (or Los Dedos) on Playa Brava, many fine restaurants and a bustling but compact city center.  The city hosts music festivals, whale sightseeing and international education conferences.

 

Seabourn Quest anchored 2 miles from a large marina close to Isla Gorriti and we were tendered ashore. Isla Gorritti is now a playground for yachts, sheltered from the Atlantic Swells, but was a pirate stronghold in the 16th century.  The city is easy to walk around and nothing of interest was more than 2 miles away.  Patrick walked along the beachfront, past El Faro, the lighthouse, passing several of the busy beaches before reaching Los Dedos (or La Mano – the hand) which won an international award for sculpture in 1982.

Private houses on the waterfront 

 

After an interesting, but warm day, with temperatures reaching 86 degrees, we weighed anchor and set out into the Atlantic, heading for our first Brazilian port of call, Ilhabela on San Sebastiao Island.

  

Uruguay and Argentina

 

Monday, February 20, 2023 – Montevideo, Uruguay

 

After leaving the Falkland/Malvinas Islands we sailed for two days to our first landfall in South America since departing Punta Arenas, Chile on February 2.  The first stop was Montevideo, Uruguay on Monday, a national holiday, part of Carnaval.  Many, if not most shops were closed, but restaurants and bars were open.  That also meant no crowds.  Montevideo sits on the north side of the Rio de la Plata, first discovered by European explorers in 1516 while searching for a route from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean.  It is considered by some to be the widest river in the world, stretching some 140 miles at it’s widest point.

 

Montevideo and the River Plate (Rio de la Plata) is also the site of the first major naval battle of World War 2, which took place on 13 December 1939.  The German Battleship Graf Spee took sanctuary in Montevideo after a major battle with three British Cruisers, HMS Exeter, HMS Ajax and HMS Achilles.  Graf Spee heavily damaged both HMS Exeter and HMS Ajax and retired to the neutral port of Montevideo.  International rules dictate a warship can only remain in a neutral port for 24 hours, but Captain Hans Landsdorff extended the stay to 72 hours.  Fearing a major British fleet was waiting for him, Landsdorff took Graf Spee out into the Rio de la Plata and scuttled Graf Spee on 17 December 1939.  Fleeing to Buenos Aires, he took his own life four days later.  The wreckage was rediscovered in 2004 and the 27 ton optical rangefinder for the main gun turrets was recovered and is on display at the entrance to the port.

 

Montevideo is home to nearly half of the 3.5 million population of Uruguay, which became an independent nation in 1828.  Uruguay maintains strong ties with the UK, France and Italy.

 

The ship docks within walking distance of the central plaza in the old town so we were able to see many of the important sights without participating in a tour.

 

Most of the way from the port to the central plaza is closed to traffic and is a pedestrian walkway for about one mile from the port to the Plaza Independencia, or Independence Square, dominated by a large monument to General Jose Artigas (1764-1850), one of the political founders and heroes of Uruguay and the Rio de la Plata region.  The monument stands atop his mausoleum.  Along the way are several more plazas, a large cathedral and an imposing opera house.  Many of the older buildings are in ornate art deco style from early in the 1900’s.  Like many cities, there is graffiti and wall paintings everywhere.

 

Plaza Independencia

Produce Market

Main cathedral – Montevideo

Monument and mausoleum to General Artigas in Independence Plaza

The harbor is still home to many derelict fishing vessels, less than we saw in 2016.

 

Tuesday, February 21, 2023 – Buenos Aires, Argentina

 

After an overnight crossing of the Rio de la Plata, Seabourn Quest docked in Buenos Aires and by 0900 we were meeting the car, driver and guide that had been prearranged for us.  After a driving tour of some of the 26 neighborhoods which make up the city, as well as a shopping stop, we arrived at La Brigada restaurant in the San Telmo neighborhood.  La Brigada is famous for steaks that can be cut with a spoon.  There we met with two of Patrick’s classmates from the Stanford Sloan program who we had not seen since 2016 in Buenos Aires.  We reconnected during a leisurely delicious lunch, sampling several varieties of Argentine steaks.

Following lunch we returned to the port at 1600 and the ship sailed at 1700 for Punta del Este, Uruguay, our next destination.

 

Wednesday, February 22, 2023 – Punta del Este, Uruguay

 

Punta del Este is both a city and municipality on the eastern tip of the Rio de la Plata, and is known as the Monaco of the South.  The year round population is only about 10,000, but that number triples during the summer season.  There are broad beaches, sculptures such as La Mano (or Los Dedos) on Playa Brava, many fine restaurants and a bustling but compact city center.  The city hosts music festivals, whale sightseeing and international education conferences.

 

Seabourn Quest anchored 2 miles from a large marina close to Isla Gorriti and we were tendered ashore. Isla Gorritti is now a playground for yachts, sheltered from the Atlantic Swells, but was a pirate stronghold in the 16th century.  The city is easy to walk around and nothing of interest was more than 2 miles away.  Patrick walked along the beachfront, past El Faro, the lighthouse, passing several of the busy beaches before reaching Los Dedos (or La Mano – the hand) which won an international award for sculpture in 1982.

Private houses on the waterfront 

 

After an interesting, but warm day, with temperatures reaching 86 degrees, we weighed anchor and set out into the Atlantic, heading for our first Brazilian port of call, Ilhabela on San Sebastiao Island.