On our second day in Buenos Aires, we took a bus tour through the city as part of our Antarctica cruise package, followed by dinner on our own overlooking Puerto Madero. Buenos Aires is a striking city, full of grand historic buildings, extensive parks, impressive monuments and much public art. We particularly enjoyed our visit…
Tag Archives | trawler
Playa de Bonanza on Espiritu Santo to Playa Pichilingue
Sunrise on Sunday, January 15 We are sad to report that it was no calmer on the north end of the anchorage than it had been on the south end. The rolling wasn’t terrible, but it certainly wasn’t calm. At … Continue reading →
Grand Americas Part 4
Jan 16-17, At Sea enroute Callao, Peru
Callao is the cruise port for Lima, Peru, our next scheduled destination. It is planned for an overnight stop to give those guests who wanted to tour Macchu Picchu enough time to get to Cuzco and on the train to Macchu Picchu.
However, demonstrations across Peru, and especially in the Cuzco area, with dozens killed, have forced the cruise line to cancel all Macchu Picchu and Cuzco excursions. Peru has declared a “state of emergency” in several areas, including Cuzco, Arequipa, Lima and Callao, restricting right of movement and demonstrations. That has not stopped the people who want the current leader ousted. The demonstrators have set up many roadblocks on major roads and railways, restricting normal movement. The current president is the 6th one since 2018, and the first woman.
With that in mind, Miriam and I have chosen to cancel our excursions in Lima and may remain on-board the ship, although so far no tourists have been targeted.
The Pacific Ocean has been kind to us the last two days, with only minimal winds and a low to moderate swell on our bow. There are lots of activities to fill the days and yesterday was a formal evening with a special “Chefs Dinner” with a 6 course fixed menu, quite good. The weather is warm enough to spend time around the main pool and have most of our meals poolside at the Patio Grill.
January 18, Lima (Callao)
The ship arrived in light fog which dispersed as we approached the entrance sea buoy and picked up the pilot. The fleet of fishing boats anchored outside rolled heavily as the offshore swell moved into shallower water and built in height.
We docked in a industrial working port, but there were tents shoreside by the gangway with local handicrafts. Patrick did ride the shuttle to Miraflores in the afternoon. Miraflores is perched on top of steep cliffs overlooking the Pacific ocean. The beaches below were filled with surfers, and one of the beaches was named “Waikiki”. The shuttle stop was in the middle of the “Malecon”, a large park overlooking the ocean, with an upscale shopping mall built underground and down the side of the steep hill. The mall was mostly upscale clothing shops and many restaurants looking out over the ocean.
“Waikiki” surfing beach in Miraflores
The shuttle passed though Callao, a much poorer area which looked pretty rough, with more garbage on the streets, and more boarded up storefronts.
January 19, Callao
Due to more demonstrations and more deaths, the ship has canceled all shore excursions, including the shuttle bus to Miraflores out of an abundance of caution, with guest safety in mind. Passengers whose cruise ended here are still going to the airport and crew exchanges are still happening. The ship’s staff are scrambling to provide additional activities for the guests.
Just one hour before departure the Captain made the announcement that all further Peru ports have been cancelled and the port of Callao has been closed to all inbound and outbound traffic. We also cannot leave until all passports have been cleared out of Peru, so we don’t know when we can leave.
Grand Americas Part 4
Jan 16-17, At Sea enroute Callao, Peru
Callao is the cruise port for Lima, Peru, our next scheduled destination. It is planned for an overnight stop to give those guests who wanted to tour Macchu Picchu enough time to get to Cuzco and on the train to Macchu Picchu.
However, demonstrations across Peru, and especially in the Cuzco area, with dozens killed, have forced the cruise line to cancel all Macchu Picchu and Cuzco excursions. Peru has declared a “state of emergency” in several areas, including Cuzco, Arequipa, Lima and Callao, restricting right of movement and demonstrations. That has not stopped the people who want the current leader ousted. The demonstrators have set up many roadblocks on major roads and railways, restricting normal movement. The current president is the 6th one since 2018, and the first woman.
With that in mind, Miriam and I have chosen to cancel our excursions in Lima and may remain on-board the ship, although so far no tourists have been targeted.
The Pacific Ocean has been kind to us the last two days, with only minimal winds and a low to moderate swell on our bow. There are lots of activities to fill the days and yesterday was a formal evening with a special “Chefs Dinner” with a 6 course fixed menu, quite good. The weather is warm enough to spend time around the main pool and have most of our meals poolside at the Patio Grill.
January 18, Lima (Callao)
The ship arrived in light fog which dispersed as we approached the entrance sea buoy and picked up the pilot. The fleet of fishing boats anchored outside rolled heavily as the offshore swell moved into shallower water and built in height.
We docked in a industrial working port, but there were tents shoreside by the gangway with local handicrafts. Patrick did ride the shuttle to Miraflores in the afternoon. Miraflores is perched on top of steep cliffs overlooking the Pacific ocean. The beaches below were filled with surfers, and one of the beaches was named “Waikiki”. The shuttle stop was in the middle of the “Malecon”, a large park overlooking the ocean, with an upscale shopping mall built underground and down the side of the steep hill. The mall was mostly upscale clothing shops and many restaurants looking out over the ocean.
“Waikiki” surfing beach in Miraflores
The shuttle passed though Callao, a much poorer area which looked pretty rough, with more garbage on the streets, and more boarded up storefronts.
January 19, Callao
Due to more demonstrations and more deaths, the ship has canceled all shore excursions, including the shuttle bus to Miraflores out of an abundance of caution, with guest safety in mind. Passengers whose cruise ended here are still going to the airport and crew exchanges are still happening. The ship’s staff are scrambling to provide additional activities for the guests.
Just one hour before departure the Captain made the announcement that all further Peru ports have been cancelled and the port of Callao has been closed to all inbound and outbound traffic. We also cannot leave until all passports have been cleared out of Peru, so we don’t know when we can leave.
Ensenada el Gallo to Playa la Bonanza, Both on Espiritu Santo… And The Forbidden Beach
Half moon was high in the sky as the sun rose on January 14, 2023 One of the reasons for wanting to come to this anchorage was so that we could visit Bahia San Gabriel, AKA The Forbidden Beach. It’s … Continue reading →
Ensenada del Candelero to Ensenada el Gallo, Both on Espiritu Santo
On Friday, we awoke up to no wind and super clear water. We knew the calm wasn’t going to last for long. The forecast was that the winds were shifting direction and would pick up from the southwest, so we needed … Continue reading →
Grand Americas Part 3
Monday – Tuesday, Jan 9-10, 2023
Seas remained calm and winds favorable as we set a direct course for the eastern entrance of the Panama Canal. Shortly before 0900 on January 10 we entered the first lock chamber at Gatun and began the 85 foot rise to Gatun Lake, in three steps just behind a large container ship from China. As predicted, the skies opened up and we had intermittent rain showers, heavy at times, as we proceeded westward to the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks. Entering Pedro Miguel lock, the eastbound lock chamber had a very large crocodile swimming around, providing a photo op for many of us. We exited the locks around 1700 and proceeded to Fuerte Amador and the new, but unfinished, cruise ship terminal. Seabourn Quest docked about 2100 and will overnight here.
January 11, 2023 – Fuerte Amador
Patrick rode the shuttle into Perico Island Marina and then walked a mile to the duty free store at Flemenco Marina where he found the cognac he was looking for that the ship did not carry. The day turned out to be very hot and humid, but the rainstorms have held off for the time being.
The ship departs early, at 1500, as we head down the coast to Manta, Ecuador. Tonight is also the “Block Party” in the hallways to meet our fellow travelers in close-by suites. The ship’s officers circulate around all the corridors and greet every passenger.
The weather report calls for light winds from the south, favorable seas and intermittent rain showers as we begin another day at sea.
Jan 12, 2023 – At Sea enroute Manta, Ecuador
Jan 13, 2023 – Manta, Ecuador
Manta is one of the major tuna fishing locations in the world, and the harbor was filled with tuna fishing boats in various stages of disrepair. Both Starkist and Bumblebee have large operations in Manta, a city of about 250,000.
Patrick went snorkeling at a nature preserve at Puerto Lopez, about a 2 hour drive south of Manta. The preserve is primarily to protect several endangered species of sea turtles, and humans are not even allowed to walk on the beaches within the preserve. The snorkeling was only fair, with visibility limited to about 10-15 feet and significant current to swim against.
This is an overnight stop and we noticed how tight the security was around the ship, with guards with sub machine guns patrolling the breakwater between the ship and a large public beach next to the breakwater. We believe it is because of demonstrations leading up to elections in February.
Jan 14, 2023 – Manta, Ecuador
We awoke in Manta to find another cruise ship docking, the Seven Seas Mariner, which left Miami 2 days after our ship, as part of a 143 day world cruise. We spent the day relaxing and taking a walk around town through a large and modern shopping center just a few blocks from the cruise terminal.
Public Beach at Manta next to dock
Sunset departing Manta
Seabourn had one of their signature events, a caviar sail away as we left the dock in Manta at 1800. We were treated to a nice sunset as we headed out of the harbor.
Jan 15, 2023 – Machala, Ecuador
Machala is a city of 500,000 and is supposed to be the banana capital of the world. There were two banana ships tied to the dock when we arrived about 0700, one of them labeled Del Monte. Patrick had a tour of a petrified forest at the Puyango River which was a two hour drive south of the city in the foothills of the Andes, which start only 20 KM from the coast in this part of Ecuador. The petrified trees are about 100 millions years old and date from before the Permian extinction. It was amazing to see the trunks sticking out of the rock walls. Since it was Sunday, by the time we had finished the 1.5 KM loop trail there were long lines of people waiting to get in, with lots of children.
Ecuadorian Naval Vessel protecting the cruise ship dock
Petrified Log sticking out of bank
Public Utility wiring in Machala
Amancay Plant at Petrified Forest
On the return trip we stopped for lunch at the Hillary Nature Park, a upscale hotel and resort perched on top of a hill overlooking the banana and cacoa plantations below.
Machala is also known for shrimp farming, much of which takes place in large ponds located in the mangrove swamps surrounding the city.
Jan 16, 2023 – At Sea enroute Lima, Peru
Jan 17, 2023 – At Sea enroute Lima, Peru
Grand Americas Part 3
Monday – Tuesday, Jan 9-10, 2023
Seas remained calm and winds favorable as we set a direct course for the eastern entrance of the Panama Canal. Shortly before 0900 on January 10 we entered the first lock chamber at Gatun and began the 85 foot rise to Gatun Lake, in three steps just behind a large container ship from China. As predicted, the skies opened up and we had intermittent rain showers, heavy at times, as we proceeded westward to the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks. Entering Pedro Miguel lock, the eastbound lock chamber had a very large crocodile swimming around, providing a photo op for many of us. We exited the locks around 1700 and proceeded to Fuerte Amador and the new, but unfinished, cruise ship terminal. Seabourn Quest docked about 2100 and will overnight here.
January 11, 2023 – Fuerte Amador
Patrick rode the shuttle into Perico Island Marina and then walked a mile to the duty free store at Flemenco Marina where he found the cognac he was looking for that the ship did not carry. The day turned out to be very hot and humid, but the rainstorms have held off for the time being.
The ship departs early, at 1500, as we head down the coast to Manta, Ecuador. Tonight is also the “Block Party” in the hallways to meet our fellow travelers in close-by suites. The ship’s officers circulate around all the corridors and greet every passenger.
The weather report calls for light winds from the south, favorable seas and intermittent rain showers as we begin another day at sea.
Jan 12, 2023 – At Sea enroute Manta, Ecuador
Jan 13, 2023 – Manta, Ecuador
Manta is one of the major tuna fishing locations in the world, and the harbor was filled with tuna fishing boats in various stages of disrepair. Both Starkist and Bumblebee have large operations in Manta, a city of about 250,000.
Patrick went snorkeling at a nature preserve at Puerto Lopez, about a 2 hour drive south of Manta. The preserve is primarily to protect several endangered species of sea turtles, and humans are not even allowed to walk on the beaches within the preserve. The snorkeling was only fair, with visibility limited to about 10-15 feet and significant current to swim against.
This is an overnight stop and we noticed how tight the security was around the ship, with guards with sub machine guns patrolling the breakwater between the ship and a large public beach next to the breakwater. We believe it is because of demonstrations leading up to elections in February.
Jan 14, 2023 – Manta, Ecuador
We awoke in Manta to find another cruise ship docking, the Seven Seas Mariner, which left Miami 2 days after our ship, as part of a 143 day world cruise. We spent the day relaxing and taking a walk around town through a large and modern shopping center just a few blocks from the cruise terminal.
Public Beach at Manta next to dock
Sunset departing Manta
Seabourn had one of their signature events, a caviar sail away as we left the dock in Manta at 1800. We were treated to a nice sunset as we headed out of the harbor.
Jan 15, 2023 – Machala, Ecuador
Machala is a city of 500,000 and is supposed to be the banana capital of the world. There were two banana ships tied to the dock when we arrived about 0700, one of them labeled Del Monte. Patrick had a tour of a petrified forest at the Puyango River which was a two hour drive south of the city in the foothills of the Andes, which start only 20 KM from the coast in this part of Ecuador. The petrified trees are about 100 millions years old and date from before the Permian extinction. It was amazing to see the trunks sticking out of the rock walls. Since it was Sunday, by the time we had finished the 1.5 KM loop trail there were long lines of people waiting to get in, with lots of children.
Ecuadorian Naval Vessel protecting the cruise ship dock
Petrified Log sticking out of bank
Public Utility wiring in Machala
Amancay Plant at Petrified Forest
On the return trip we stopped for lunch at the Hillary Nature Park, a upscale hotel and resort perched on top of a hill overlooking the banana and cacoa plantations below.
Machala is also known for shrimp farming, much of which takes place in large ponds located in the mangrove swamps surrounding the city.
Jan 16, 2023 – At Sea enroute Lima, Peru
Jan 17, 2023 – At Sea enroute Lima, Peru
Third Trip to Ensenada del Candelero, Day 2
Sunrise on Thursday January 12 The wind was screaming. While Kosmos was rocking, the amount of motion wasn’t all that bad compared to the wind speed. At lunchtime, we headed to shore to enjoy dry land. Thanks to all the wind … Continue reading →
Jan. 9-12 South Padre Island, TX
The view from our deck. We enjoyed watching the sun and the moon come up from here.
Out our front door we had a view of the town and Laguna Madre.






























































