I guess I’d be the ‘sod’ part of that title. *sigh*Only 2 weeks left in our boat building season. So much to do. Scrambling around trying to get as much done as I can before I have to shift my attention to the RV and getting it ready for the big trip o…
Tag Archives | trawler
Curiosity
Mom and Dad are often asked, what type of dog is Dora? While it’s pretty obviously she has a lot hound in her – you should hear her bay – there’s definitely something else there. She looks a lot like a foxhound but she’s not quite big enough. Ma…
Aug. 19 – Singer Castle
“We take photos as a return ticket to a moment otherwise gone.” – Anonymous
We left Brockville yesterday and spent the day relaxing in a quiet anchorage in Chippewa Bay. This morning we decided to stop at Singer Castle for a tour. We visited the larger Boldt Castle on Heart Island when we were in here in 2012. This castle (home…hunting lodge is much smaller). This home was actually lived in until the mid 1960’s.
CRUISING HAWAII – Oahu
CRUISING HAWAII – Oahu
August 19th, 2018
Lahaina, Maui
 |
| Hawaii in Summer… Dodging Hurricanes… HECTOR |
If a major storm had not thrown us off our course to Alaska and forced us to divert to Honolulu, we never would have chosen the Hawaiian Islands as a cruising destination. There are several reasons for that.
 |
| Kewalo Basin and Ala Wai Boat Harbor, Honolulu. No transient docking available |
 |
| The sad state of Ala Wai Boat Harbor |
- Few protected anchorages. The Eastern coasts are, obviously, exposed to the trade winds and unsuitable. The Western and Northern coasts are made of steep cliffs and rocky shores, steep drops, and count very few natural anchorages.
 |
| The work dock… we nudged Domino next to the SWATH |
- Decrepit harbors. I hate to say it, but it is true. The yachting population is not a State priority and the State-controlled harbors are in dire state of disrepair. Take Oahu, for example. It took us 4 days to find a berth at the Ala Wai in Waikiki, and only after we got denied by all of the other State-harbors, private harbors and yacht clubs.
The splendid and immense Pearl Harbor, the only safe harbor in all of the islands, of course, is reserved to the military and the only way to get a mooring is to be military personnel. Well, scratch that!
 |
| Riding HECTOR on the lagoon |
Keehi Harbor (State-owned), by the airport, is another enormous harbor, with fair protection. We called, and there is NO berth or mooring for a 65’ boat, and there is NO anchoring in the enormous Keehi lagoon. Yet, when we took a peek at the harbor, a good 30% of the docks were destroyed, and of the boats present, I’d say a good 20% were derelict. Some weird traffic goes on at night too, making you wonder what’s going on under the nose of the harbormaster! However, when hurricane HECTOR reared its head, we anchored in the lagoon anyways, and beseeched permission as soon as the harbormaster’s office opened. After some back-and-forth, we were allowed to stay until it was safe to cruise again.
 |
| Friday Night in Waikiki’s Ala Wai Boat Harbor |
Kewalo Basin (State-owned) had no room for us. We waited 4 days for any yacht to be moved around, but no, no room for a transiting yacht.
Koalina Boat Harbor (private) was promising… but no, no room for a 65’ boat, and even if there had been, the monthly fee was $3,000 and NO live aboard.
The yacht clubs were no better. The Hawaii Yacht Club had no room above 45’ and the Waikiki Yacht Club had no room, period.
 |
| The perk: Fabric shopping! |
Ala Wai Boat Harbor, Waikiki (State-Owned) – After spending 4 days at the loading dock (usually a 30’ limit) and with no other option available to us, we begged the harbormaster to let us stay at the work dock, a 24-foot wide berth for our 23’ wide cat… a tight fit. We took it, at $231/week, no easy-way electricity 9have to register with the city; we passed1), no facilities, no bathroom and transients and taxi drivers urinating outside the condemned public bathroom. The weird thing? We were happy of have found a space to park our boat.
 |
| The Ala Wai Boat Harbor – So many derelict boats that should not be there! |
All this to say, don’t cruise Hawaii with a big boat!
By now, I’m sure that you have written to the Hawaiian congressmen and begged to support yachting in their district, right?
 |
| Learning the Hawaaian quilting with the pros… the real deal! |
For all the ugliness of the situation, there were a few bright points. Hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping (Don Quijote is the best!), night life, Ukulele lessons, Friday night fireworks, World Cup on TV, and —my favorite— learning to quilt the traditional Hawaiian way with the legendary Poakalani clan, the Serrao Family.
 |
| Ukulele and Hawaiian Quilting! |
But once JP got the fuel pump fixed and installed the new washer dryer (you read right!), we were off cruising again.
 |
| Thank you, my Captain! |
POKAI BAY – (Wai’anae) 21*26.661N, 158*11.536W
If you have a small boat, you can anchor behind the breakwater, but we found the proximity of the park a bit loud. This is a cool spot. Every morning, large pods of spinner dolphins come to feed in the area… and an armada of charter boats follows, dozens of people in the water to swim with the creatures. With a bit of luck and patience, we managed to slip quietly down our swim ladder and have some 1-on-1 with a small pod, papa, mama, and newborn baby!
 |
| How can we not love these amazing creatures? Spinner Dolphins |
Snorkel on the outside of the breakwater and you are sure to find a few turtles. As for me, I was pretty jaded and ready to go back to the boat when I was surprised by a 4-foot Zebra Moray Eel. You never know!
 |
| Zebra Moray (Photo Graham’s Island.com) |
NORTH SHORE – WAIMEA BAY – 21*38.421N, 158*03.943W
Strange… sailboats are allowed to anchor close to shore. Motor yachts must anchor outside of a line that stretches between the outermost structures built on both sides of the bay. Still, it’s good holding and a mythical spot.
All day, we watched hundreds of enthusiasts jump off the Black Rock… they jump at night too, crazy buggers!
The snorkeling in the bay is marginal, just big boulders and nothing much.
But…. we anchored at North Shore and could just imagine the force of the winter waves by looking at the steep grade of the beach and the cliffs around. Moana! Never to be underestimated.
 |
| Fourth of July at the Ala Wai… we have 40 flags out! |
Off to Molokai, Lanai, and Maui….
Till next time,
 |
| Ahi Poke, anyone? |
dominomarie
CRUISING HAWAII – Oahu
CRUISING HAWAII – Oahu
August 19th, 2018
Lahaina, Maui
|
| Hawaii in Summer… Dodging Hurricanes… HECTOR |
If a major storm had not thrown us off our course to Alaska and forced us to divert to Honolulu, we never would have chosen the Hawaiian Islands as a cruising destination. There are several reasons for that.
|
| Kewalo Basin and Ala Wai Boat Harbor, Honolulu. No transient docking available |
|
| The sad state of Ala Wai Boat Harbor |
- Few protected anchorages. The Eastern coasts are, obviously, exposed to the trade winds and unsuitable. The Western and Northern coasts are made of steep cliffs and rocky shores, steep drops, and count very few natural anchorages.
|
| The work dock… we nudged Domino next to the SWATH |
- Decrepit harbors. I hate to say it, but it is true. The yachting population is not a State priority and the State-controlled harbors are in dire state of disrepair. Take Oahu, for example. It took us 4 days to find a berth at the Ala Wai in Waikiki, and only after we got denied by all of the other State-harbors, private harbors and yacht clubs.
The splendid and immense Pearl Harbor, the only safe harbor in all of the islands, of course, is reserved to the military and the only way to get a mooring is to be military personnel. Well, scratch that!
|
| Riding HECTOR on the lagoon |
Keehi Harbor (State-owned), by the airport, is another enormous harbor, with fair protection. We called, and there is NO berth or mooring for a 65’ boat, and there is NO anchoring in the enormous Keehi lagoon. Yet, when we took a peek at the harbor, a good 30% of the docks were destroyed, and of the boats present, I’d say a good 20% were derelict. Some weird traffic goes on at night too, making you wonder what’s going on under the nose of the harbormaster! However, when hurricane HECTOR reared its head, we anchored in the lagoon anyways, and beseeched permission as soon as the harbormaster’s office opened. After some back-and-forth, we were allowed to stay until it was safe to cruise again.
|
| Friday Night in Waikiki’s Ala Wai Boat Harbor |
Kewalo Basin (State-owned) had no room for us. We waited 4 days for any yacht to be moved around, but no, no room for a transiting yacht.
Koalina Boat Harbor (private) was promising… but no, no room for a 65’ boat, and even if there had been, the monthly fee was $3,000 and NO live aboard.
The yacht clubs were no better. The Hawaii Yacht Club had no room above 45’ and the Waikiki Yacht Club had no room, period.
|
| The perk: Fabric shopping! |
Ala Wai Boat Harbor, Waikiki (State-Owned) – After spending 4 days at the loading dock (usually a 30’ limit) and with no other option available to us, we begged the harbormaster to let us stay at the work dock, a 24-foot wide berth for our 23’ wide cat… a tight fit. We took it, at $231/week, no easy-way electricity 9have to register with the city; we passed1), no facilities, no bathroom and transients and taxi drivers urinating outside the condemned public bathroom. The weird thing? We were happy of have found a space to park our boat.
|
| The Ala Wai Boat Harbor – So many derelict boats that should not be there! |
All this to say, don’t cruise Hawaii with a big boat!
By now, I’m sure that you have written to the Hawaiian congressmen and begged to support yachting in their district, right?
|
| Learning the Hawaaian quilting with the pros… the real deal! |
For all the ugliness of the situation, there were a few bright points. Hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping (Don Quijote is the best!), night life, Ukulele lessons, Friday night fireworks, World Cup on TV, and —my favorite— learning to quilt the traditional Hawaiian way with the legendary Poakalani clan, the Serrao Family.
|
| Ukulele and Hawaiian Quilting! |
But once JP got the fuel pump fixed and installed the new washer dryer (you read right!), we were off cruising again.
|
| Thank you, my Captain! |
POKAI BAY – (Wai’anae) 21*26.661N, 158*11.536W
If you have a small boat, you can anchor behind the breakwater, but we found the proximity of the park a bit loud. This is a cool spot. Every morning, large pods of spinner dolphins come to feed in the area… and an armada of charter boats follows, dozens of people in the water to swim with the creatures. With a bit of luck and patience, we managed to slip quietly down our swim ladder and have some 1-on-1 with a small pod, papa, mama, and newborn baby!
|
| How can we not love these amazing creatures? Spinner Dolphins |
Snorkel on the outside of the breakwater and you are sure to find a few turtles. As for me, I was pretty jaded and ready to go back to the boat when I was surprised by a 4-foot Zebra Moray Eel. You never know!
|
| Zebra Moray (Photo Graham’s Island.com) |
NORTH SHORE – WAIMEA BAY – 21*38.421N, 158*03.943W
Strange… sailboats are allowed to anchor close to shore. Motor yachts must anchor outside of a line that stretches between the outermost structures built on both sides of the bay. Still, it’s good holding and a mythical spot.
All day, we watched hundreds of enthusiasts jump off the Black Rock… they jump at night too, crazy buggers!
The snorkeling in the bay is marginal, just big boulders and nothing much.
But…. we anchored at North Shore and could just imagine the force of the winter waves by looking at the steep grade of the beach and the cliffs around. Moana! Never to be underestimated.
|
| Fourth of July at the Ala Wai… we have 40 flags out! |
Off to Molokai, Lanai, and Maui….
Till next time,
|
| Ahi Poke, anyone? |
dominomarie
Reid Glacier
Day 60: North Sandy to Reid Glacier: It is another amazing day in Glacier Bay. We continue working our way up bay while enjoying the warm sunny weather which is very unusual for this area. We peak our nose in Tidal Inlet and spot a brown bear on shore. Reaching the high granite peaks of […]
Route of the Vikings – Post 5
August 18, 2018
Reflections on Greenland while at anchor in Iqaliut
Before taking this trip we had scoured the internet for books on Greenland and settled on “This Cold Heaven” by a Danish author, Greta Erlich.
The book was a well written mix of personal stories and the history of the waves of inhabitants in Greenland, but focused more on the areas north of Ilulissat, which is as far north as we went on this trip.
The two towns north of the Arctic Circle we visited were much like the descriptions in the book. However, Greenland is moving so quickly into the modern world that much of the Inuit traditional life seemed to us to be swallowed up by cars, modern buildings, stores, café’s, airports, and modern small boats. The movement of people from the small settlements into the larger towns and the construction of more and more apartment blocks has been swift. Several of the towns had massive fish processing plants to handle the fish caught from the productive waters fed by the Labrador Current.
Greenland has also been “discovered” by tourists like us, with more cruise ship visits and the allure of adventure travel to one of the last isolated places on earth. So, some of the towns cater to skiers, hikers, fishermen and other outdoor enthusiasts. Just in Ilulissat alone we saw four other cruise ships, some just scenic cruising, others like the Seabourn Quest anchoring off the town and going ashore or cruising the Icefjord in Zodiacs. There was a thriving business of locally operated whale watching and iceberg tours.
I think what surprised us the most was the amount of “green”, the variety of vegetation thriving in the brief summer season. We also did not realize how much of the western coastline is ice free all year, even north of the Arctic Circle.
Our route so far
Last night we anchored off the town of Iqaluit, the capital city of Nunavut. Before the Northwest Territories were split in two, the town was called Frobisher Bay and sits on the bay itself. We are not allowed off the boat and into the town, it is Canada Customs clearance only. There are still patches of snow on the surrounding hills, which are much lower and rounded compared to Greenland’s west coast.
The morning was overcast, but by noon patches of sun broke through the clouds as we prepared to head for our next stops, zodiac tours by three islands, Monumental Island, Lady Franklin Island and Akpatok Island, where we may see polar bears and other wildlife. This will be possible only if the wind and seas permit launching the zodiacs.
Sunday, August 19, 2018
Lady Franklin and Monumental Islands
The ship is lying still several miles off the islands, which are in Davis Strait and in the open ocean. There are icebergs of various sizes visible all around the horizon. The winds are light as promised, with a low swell. At 0530 we headed to the embarkation point for the zodiac tour at 0600 to Lady Franklin Islands. The first departure group was small, only 21 people and 2 zodiacs. Heading to the islands, the fog began to settle in as the sun rose higher above the horizon through broken clouds. Our guides spotted a polar bear on one of the islets comprising the group and we were able to approach quietly and get some photos and observe through binoculars. The were also Ravens, Black Guillemots and Fulmars on the island or in the water.
Our first Polar Bear Sighting
The bear seemed curious but not concerned
The fog began to roll back in
The final view before returning to the ship in the morning
After the morning tours the ship moved to Monumental Island, about 15 nautical miles away. There we saw Walruses and 4 more Polar Bears on our afternoon zodiac tour.
Pod of walruses
Mother and two cubs
4th Polar Bear on ridge
14 August 2018 Cape May, NJ, Chesapeake City, VA – Severna Park, MD – Herrington Harbor Marina and Resort
1 August
As Robert Burns said, “the best laid plans of mice and men….” We spent 2 days in Cape May’s torrential rain hoping for a break in the weather so we could cycle the area. Long ago we rode our bikes here and it was such fun that we were hoping to have a re-run…but not! Decided we’d stop again on our way south so departed marina this morning with the intentions of spending tonight in Atlantic City. NOAA said seas were 1 foot or less. NOAA just doesn’t knowa and it’s not the first time we believed their “fake forecast”. We went out into the Atlantic and after an hour of feeling we were in a washing machine, we turned back. We got in high seas once before because we relied on NOAA.
Here ’tis Tues and neither the ocean nor Delaware Bay looks ‘friendly’ for another week…so here we sit. By next week it’ll be too late to resume our travels to Long Island Sound so in a week, we’ll retrace our steps heading south.Of course, this messes with Bill’s meticulous spread sheet (which troubles him) but it’s always cast in dilute Jello is is changed several times a day. He just commented that his spreadsheet looks “soft”. We’ll stay here till Monday when Delaware Bay should be user-friendly and then we’ll head south. We planned on meeting trawler friends in LI but not this time and that’s really disappointing.
2 August
This boat, in the slip next to us, sank last night and owners are trying to raise her!!!??? Meanwhile, jugs of fuel, anti-freeze, all manner of carnage from inside floated out and away. We’re amazed that the EPA nor any environmental agency has even been down. This is damaging our oceans and environment and I’m more than a little bit upset!!
3 August
An update to last night’s saga. Despite the mammoth brand-new bright and shiny crane and the other trucks with crew, BIG counter-balance weights, and working after hours—the cost was only $5,500!!!
We thought it would be much much more. The boat owner told us that this morning. He’s young and a trooper. He’s been working on that tub all day by himself. No wonder he’s thin and toned and fit….
6 August
Morning, Y’all, from Utsches Marina, Cape May, NJ
We had a delightfully peaceful cruise across Delaware Bay landing in Chesapeake City, VA, for a night or two for calm nights at anchor.
8 August
Pretty little historic houses on our walk to breakfast this morning.
Our cruise today took us to Severna Park and to our Marathon, FL, sailing friends’ dock. We met Tom and Elinor years ago when we were next slip neighbors. Tom’s an avid cyclist and we rode with him in the Keys as well as on the B and A Trail while visiting them in MD. They’re always wonderful hosts and enjoyable company.
Their Meridian and our Kindred Spirit III as seen from their deck
Sunset on the Severn from Tom and Elinor’s deck
9 August
This morning we had a 6:30 AM ride with Tom and enjoyed a coffee at The Big Bean situated along the trail.
This morning we had a 6:30 AM ride with Tom and enjoyed a coffee at The Big Bean situated along the trail.
While at Tom and Elinor’s, Mike, a friend with whom I used to work, was in the area to celebrate his mom’s 92nd birthday. He came over for a boat visit. T’was fun catching up on our lives in the decade plus since we were both gainfully employed.
13 August
Our last full day in Severna and a wonderful one. I went with Tom on the best ride I’ve ever done since we’ve been riding our Bike Fridays 13 years ago. I felt wonderful, it was fun, and there was NO whining. The route was a new one—on the B&A Trail and through some historic neighborhoods. I came home on an endorphin high.
14 August
Since the ocean was unfriendly to us couple weeks ago causing us to abort our trip to LI, we were left with loose ends for a few weeks. We connected with the Chesapeake Bay Cruisers for a 2 week cruise of 8-10 boats and we’re havng a ball! The organizers have done an incredible job of lining up marinas and restaurants. We knew just a few couples since we’re rarely in this area but have met new friends and are having the time of our lives. Definitely the best group cruise we’ve ever taken. We departed Solomons today and are cruising the bay.
Our first 2 nights are in Herrington Harbor Marina and Resort and what a spectacular place with approximately 700 slips.
15 August
Cocktails this evening on the cusp of Herring Bay while docked at Herrington Harbor South. Foremost, (for me!) is a great pool with designated lap lanes. I was using fins and kick board and “they” deemed my kick board, a ‘flotation device’ which is outlawed! Was expecting them to call my fins a ‘pool toy’. Whatever! Just for a day and more than happy to have a pool with lane lines. No T but flip turns weren’t a prob. Joined a group at 7:30 for a walk. Was so accustomed to Tom’s 6:30 launch that we felt like we were sleeping in. Fun place and a fun buncha boat people.
Bill and Laura
Herrington Harbor
August 2018 Cape May, NJ, Chesapeake City, VA – Severna Park, MD – Herrington Harbor Marina and Resort – Solomons Island Yacht Club, MD – Slaughter Creek, MD –
1 August
As Robert Burns said, “the best laid plans of mice and men….” We spent 2 days in Cape May’s torrential rain hoping for a break in the weather so we could cycle the area. Long ago we rode our bikes here and it was such fun that we were hoping to have a re-run…but not! Decided we’d stop again on our way south so departed marina this morning with the intentions of spending tonight in Atlantic City. NOAA said seas were 1 foot or less. NOAA just doesn’t knowa and it’s not the first time we believed their “fake forecast”. We went out into the Atlantic and after an hour of feeling we were in a washing machine, we turned back. We got in high seas once before because we relied on NOAA.
Here ’tis Tues and neither the ocean nor Delaware Bay looks ‘friendly’ for another week…so here we sit. By next week it’ll be too late to resume our travels to Long Island Sound so in a week, we’ll retrace our steps heading south.Of course, this messes with Bill’s meticulous spread sheet (which troubles him) but it’s always cast in dilute Jello is is changed several times a day. He just commented that his spreadsheet looks “soft”. We’ll stay here till Monday when Delaware Bay should be user-friendly and then we’ll head south. We planned on meeting trawler friends in LI but not this time and that’s really disappointing.
2 August
This boat, in the slip next to us, sank last night and owners are trying to raise her!!!??? Meanwhile, jugs of fuel, anti-freeze, all manner of carnage from inside floated out and away. We’re amazed that the EPA nor any environmental agency has even been down. This is damaging our oceans and environment and I’m more than a little bit upset!!
3 August
An update to last night’s saga. Despite the mammoth brand-new bright and shiny crane and the other trucks with crew, BIG counter-balance weights, and working after hours—the cost was only $5,500!!!
We thought it would be much much more. The boat owner told us that this morning. He’s young and a trooper. He’s been working on that tub all day by himself. No wonder he’s thin and toned and fit….
6 August
Morning, Y’all, from Utsches Marina, Cape May, NJ
We had a delightfully peaceful cruise across Delaware Bay landing in Chesapeake City, VA, for a night or two for calm nights at anchor.
8 August
Pretty little historic houses on our walk to breakfast this morning.
Our cruise today took us to Severna Park and to our Marathon, FL, sailing friends’ dock. We met Tom and Elinor years ago when we were next slip neighbors. Tom’s an avid cyclist and we rode with him in the Keys as well as on the B and A Trail while visiting them in MD. They’re always wonderful hosts and enjoyable company.
Their Meridian and our Kindred Spirit III as seen from their deck
Sunset on the Severn from Tom and Elinor’s deck
9 August
This morning we had a 6:30 AM ride with Tom and enjoyed a coffee at The Big Bean situated along the trail.
This morning we had a 6:30 AM ride with Tom and enjoyed a coffee at The Big Bean situated along the trail.
While at Tom and Elinor’s, Mike, a friend with whom I used to work, was in the area to celebrate his mom’s 92nd birthday. He came over for a boat visit. T’was fun catching up on our lives in the decade plus since we were both gainfully employed.
13 August
Our last full day in Severna and a wonderful one. I went with Tom on the best ride I’ve ever done since we’ve been riding our Bike Fridays 13 years ago. I felt wonderful, it was fun, and there was NO whining. The route was a new one—on the B&A Trail and through some historic neighborhoods. I came home on an endorphin high.
14 August
Since the ocean was unfriendly to us couple weeks ago causing us to abort our trip to LI, we were left with loose ends for a few weeks. We connected with the Chesapeake Bay Cruisers for a 2 week cruise of 8-10 boats and we’re havng a ball! The organizers have done an incredible job of lining up marinas and restaurants. We knew just a few couples since we’re rarely in this area but have met new friends and are having the time of our lives. Definitely the best group cruise we’ve ever taken. We departed Solomons today and are cruising the bay.
Our first 2 nights are in Herrington Harbor Marina and Resort and what a spectacular place with approximately 700 slips.
15 August
Cocktails this evening on the cusp of Herring Bay while docked at Herrington Harbor South. Foremost is a great pool with designated lap lanes. I was using fins and kick board and “they” deemed my kick board, a ‘flotation device’ which is outlawed! Was expecting them to call my fins a ‘pool toy’. Whatever! Just for a day and more than happy to have a pool with lane lines. No T but flip turns weren’t a prob. Joined a group at 7:30 for a walk. Was so accustomed to Tom’s 6:30 launch that we felt like we were sleeping in. Fun place and a fun buncha boat people.
Bill and Laura
Herrington Harbor
Aug. 16-17 – Brockville, ON
Tall Ships Landing Marina
“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” – Tim Cahill
Today we headed down the St. Lawerence River to Brockville, the city of the 1000 Islands. Brockville is the eastern end of 1000 Island and is a beautiful place to visit, full of historic buildings and a fantastic waterfront. We came to explore the area, but we also came to meet a blog friend that I’ve exchanged texts with for over a year. We had plans to meet last August in the Finger Lakes when Hurricane Harvey changes our plans.
