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Nordhavn 46 for Sale

Well here goes.  I’ve cleaned her up and got most of our junk off the boat.  Here’s the website I cobbled together to sell her.  I think she looks pretty fine.http://tinyurl.com/lztd2b8Wish me Luck!Tom

Settled in


Well, I guess it’s fair to say that we are now settled in for the winter.  The Emily Grace was hauled, polished, bottom-painted and shrink-wrapped.  A few more boxes of stuff were taken off and the interior cleanup is underway to prepare her for sale.  With all the systems winterized, working on a cold boat without running water will not be easy or pleasurable so that may be limited over the winter months.  I’ve been spending some time listing the on-board equipment and looking at dates for critical maintenance items that a future owner would be asking.

          

Up in Ludlow, Mass, we have had contractors in to update thermostats, blow insulation into the house walls and have increased the size of the propane tanks in the old cottage.  We plan to use propane as our primary heat source since the propane company considered us new customers and we will get half-price propane for 12 months!  Electric baseboard heat (provided free by good friend, George Delicato) will serve as backup and supplementary heat during any really cold snaps.  Heat tape has been installed on all exterior water pipes and only time will tell if the water will continue to run throughout the winter.


             
We got a second car (used 2013 Toyota Rav4) so the girls will not be inconvenienced when I leave town to work on the boat. We also added two rescue pets to our household from a local animal shelter.  Tusker (named after an African beer) is a 12-week old beagle mix puppy and was the runt of a litter rescued from a drainage pipe in Virginia.  Bo (named after “Bohemia Especial” a Dominican Republic beer) is a 12-week old black and white short haired kitten.  They both get along well and are a good fit for our worldly family.


                                    

Emily has transitioned well from homeschooling into public schools and after some early learning pains, managed to finish her first term (quarter) with an A in all seven of her classes.  In addition to the studies, she enjoyed dolling up for Crazy Hair day. She has joined a couple of clubs and recently joined a youth group associated with our church.  She is slowly making school friends and has plans for a mall/movie day with 3 girlfriends for her upcoming 14thbirthday.


           

Kim has also joined a ladies group at the church and has attended several functions.  Tom has been busy fixing up the boat and cottage and is working with an architect on a design for a new house.  We are excited to learn that yet another new housing development has just been approved along the northern border of our property near where we plan to build.  Our 40 acre homestead will soon be surrounded on 3 sides by McMansions.  We are in discussions with the developer and should be able to gain a much shorter, level driveway to our new house.  Time will tell.

                  

We attended the Big E which is a massive New England fair complete with horse shows, rides, greasy food and face painting. Emily also enjoyed having her first normal house-to-house trick or treating in 7 years.  Kim sewed her the leopard dress that looks good enough to wear out on the town.  Emily carved her first pumpkin ever since she was not wielding a knife when we left in 2008.  She did pretty good since the knife she is most familiar with is a bush machete!

               


                               

Tom

Settling in


Wow.  We sure have packed in a lot in the past 5 weeks. We had a couple of parties in Ct to attend with old friends that were a joy to see again.  Other than a few more lines on all of our faces, things have not changed too much. 

Emily got to see her old house and walk through the inside.  The new owners were gracious enough to invite us in and even had a few questions that only the builders (us) would know.  They have kept the house even better than we could have and they both must have green thumbs since the landscaping was much improved.
We got some health insurance and have all started to get medical exams to determine how we fared outside of the USA for 6 years.  Emily was fitted with braces for her teeth and is thrilled (NOT) to be entering high school with a mouth filled with metal.  Her school placement testing went better than expected as she will waive normal 9th grade Algebra 1 and Physics and take all subjects except gym and Spanish at honors level. We are very proud parents!
 
Tom has been clearing overgrown brush and fallen trees around the Ludlow mass cottage and trying to get it livable for the coming cold winter. Already replaced were 3 rotting floor joists and heat tape is being installed under the house to keep exposed water pipes from bursting (again).  Kim and Emily have been scrubbing ceilings, walls and floors of 6 years (or more) of dirt and making new curtains.  A washing machine was wired and plumbed in the barn and the house refrigerator needed replacement.
 
We all got Samsung Galaxy S4 or S5 smart phones and are slowly discovering all the magic they contain. Smart TVs are being researched as Tom is trying to figure a way to eliminate cable TV altogether by using streaming internet. We found no good reason to re-connect our land-line phone, so good riddance to another bill!
We have held some discussions with the town and uncovering the bureaucratic hurtles we will have to overcome to build another house on our 40 acres of land.  Surveyors, lawyers and architects are being contacted. We attended a local Ludlow fair and Emily did pretty good at rock climbing.
 
We will continue to shuttle back and forth between Ludlow, Ma and Groton, CT until the boat is hauled out near the end of August.  0ver 60 boxes have been off-loaded into our dear friend’s basement and 4 carloads have been brought north so far.  The water line is slowly rising as we uncover parts of the boat that have been buried for years. Tom is trying to remember the winterizing steps and how many gallons of pink antifreeze will be needed. Going south until the butter melts was a much better plan!
We got a little more press; this time from Nordhavn, the boat builder.  Here’s the link but it was mostly a copy job from the Maryland newspaper piece:
Well life goes on and we will continue to chip away at becoming dirt dwellers again.  Once Emily is back in school and the boat is out of the water, things should settle down a bit…We shall see.
Tom

Home At Last- And Celebrities at That!


We finally made it back to the same yacht club in Groton, CT that we left in 2008.  Life is a chaos trying to re-establish all the things we will need to return to the dirt dweller life.  Just a quick blog to reprint the article that the paper in Ocean City just printed.  The link is below, but it will probably only work until the next big story blows in.  Therefore, I pasted in directly below:
 
World-Traveling Lawler Family Stops in Ocean Pines
Posted on Ocean City Today newspaper on Thursday, July 3rd, 2014 by Josh Davis
OCEAN PINES– After six long, fascinating years at sea, the Lawler family is finally coming home.

Tom Lawler posed with his wife Kim and daughter Emily aboard their ship the Emily Grace following a 6-year cruise around the world. The ship was docked at the Sunset Marina in West Ocean City last week.
JOSH DAVIS/OCEAN CITY TODAY
In 2008 Tom, his wife Kim and their then 8-year-old daughter Emily sold their home in Connecticut and began a global cruising trek.
Last month the Lawlers returned to the U.S., docking first in Port Canaveral, Fla. then sailing to Georgia, on to South Carolina and through Virginia in their Nordhavn 46 motor yacht named “Emily Grace.” In early June the family arrived at Sunset Marina in West Ocean City and spent a few days visiting Tom’s mother, Shirley, in Ocean Pines.
The Lawlers caught the cruising bug years ago during a scuba diving vacation in Belize on a live-aboard boat.
“It was very luxurious and we all came out thinking to ourselves, ‘why don’t we do this – just get a boat and go wherever you want to go?’” Tom said. “So that was kind of the seed. We developed a plan and saved as much as we could, and when we hit the right number we left.”
Tom grew up in Annapolis and spent every summer in Ocean City with his parents and two brothers. He learned to pilot small boats on the Severn River as a child, but he had to do plenty of research before setting sail across the world.
“You need to know about the customs, and you obviously have to know a lot about navigation,” Tom said. “I took some classes before I left.”
Kim, who has an extensive medical background, took classes as well and became a certified HAM radio operator, allowing the family to use a single sideband radio to transmit data and send and receive emails through satellite technology while at sea.
The boat was stocked with spare parts so the Lawlers could perform most repairs themselves. “You need to find what parts are critical – what parts will shut down the trip – and those are the ones you carry,” Tom said.
A broad range of medical supplies, including antibiotics, was also packed. “Kim could do injections, and we had controlled narcotics for pain,” said Tom. “We went to our doctor and explained what we were doing and they were happy to fill up prescriptions for us. When we left Emily was actually so young that she couldn’t take an adult dose, so we had to carry powdered antibiotics that you mix up.”
SETTING SAIL
After selling their home to fund the trip, the family headed first to Maine, then south through the Caribbean and Trinidad before heading west through Venezuela and Columbia.
Emily was homeschooled throughout the trip using Baltimore-based Calvert School’s curriculum. Food was – for the most part – bought during various stops along the way.
“Wherever you go they have food – they just may not have your food,” Tom said. “So we learned to eat weird things.”
Sometimes the family would stop for a day or two and gather supplies. Other times they would stay and set up camp for several months.
“We were in New Zealand for six months,” Kim said. “It was always because of the weather or the season – having to move – but that was the longest we stayed in any one place.”
“You have to time all the places in the world around the hurricane or cyclone seasons,” said Tom. “We entered the Panama Canal in February, which gives you the most time in the Pacific before the next hurricane season, but we only got as far as Tonga; if we stayed any longer we could potentially encounter a hurricane. So what you do is you go south.
“At certain latitudes near the equator there are no hurricanes,” Tom continued. “So you go down to New Zealand and you wait, and while we’re down enjoying New Zealand there were hurricanes swirling in the Pacific to the North of us.”
While in Niuatoputapu, Tonga, the Lawlers found a village virtually swept away by a tsunami. The Red Cross had dropped two dozen kit homes on enormous pallets on the shore and then disappeared.
The villagers, forced to live under trees, had no idea how to build the homes. Tom, with the help of several other fellow cruisers, met with the island elders to make a plan.
“There were six or seven cruising boats and we all got out our hammers and came ashore,” he said. “We got a bunch of the villagers together too so they would learn, and we all built a house together in one day.
“What was cool was this man that we built it for was about 75 years old,” Tom continued. “We started very early in the morning and at noon he comes riding up in this rusty, old bicycle, and he has a basket and he made us lunch – all the guys. It was so sweet to watch him. And at the end of the day it was his home, and we gave it to him and he just had tears running down his face. And then, once the villagers knew how to do it, they had another 20 kit homes and they could do it themselves.”
Tom said it was important to him – and many of the other cruisers – to give back.
“We visit these exotic places and don’t want to be seen as typical tourists taking pictures and leaving trash on the beach,” he said. “The personal interactions with the locals is what makes each country special and is just as priceless to me as the help we give them. At the end of the day we hope many of the locals will remember us as friends and have fond memories of us just as we do of them.”
During a stop in Fiji Emily briefly attended school with a friend she met on the island, wearing a loaned uniform and carrying in stacks of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and potato chips. The local school children devoured the foreign delicacy, while Emily ate the noodles the other children brought for lunch.
Showering could also an adventure.
“It was a tree trunk and two wooden walls and a rack for a washcloth, and the only soap that they had was what we brought,” Emily said. “The water was ice-cold, and if there was anybody out in the woods they would have seen us.”
Emily learned to do origami to pass the time, and would often make paper cranes to give away to native children.

Emily Lawler, 13, showed off her intricate origami dragon. Lawler made origami creatures for natives in more than a dozen country during her family’s 6-year cruise around the world.
JOSH DAVIS/OCEAN CITY TODAY
“There would be 30 kids wanting a little crane and I would make one for each of them and they would gasp,” she said.
“We would come into a village and there would be a couple of kids and they would be shy and hiding behind a tree, and then they’d come out and start talking to us and Emily would just start folding without saying anything,” Tom said. “The kids started watching. Then once you did the one and handed it to them that’s all it took; kids would come out of the bushes and they would be all around her. In some cases she would even stop and teach them how to do it. You should have seen the smiles on their faces.”
When they weren’t enjoying the lush, tropical locales and dozens of fascinating cultures they encountered along the way, the family would unwind on their boat watching movies stored on the four-terabyte hard drive packed for the trip.
That’s not to say things were always peaceful. Swimming with sharks and interacting with local wildlife became second nature, but mechanical failures – and the occasional run in with pirates – threatened to derail the trip on several occasions.
In one instance the Emily Grace ran into trouble when a small coolant leak led to a potentially disastrous problem crossing from the Maldives to Chagos.
“We thought we’ll just go – we’ll limp along, I’ll keep adding coolant and hopefully we’ll get to a place where we can have it fixed,” Tom said. “It was a 300-mile trip down to the uninhabited atolls of Chagos and we were 60 miles into it, and there was a little seal that was weeping – ‘drip, drip, drip’ – and suddenly it became a catastrophic failure. It dumped all the coolant to the bilge and the engine overheated and we had to shut it down; we didn’t have anything to fix it with.”
Luckily, the family was able to use their spare “wing engine.” They turned the boat around, slowly sputtered back to the Maldives at half speed, and had new parts shipped from the United States.
Unable to find a mechanic, the Lawlers performed the repairs themselves. “It’s about 100 degrees or more there and we’re all in the engine room,” Kim said. “It was so hot.”
“It was a very big part and it was awkward and very heavy,” Tom said. “Three of us in a cramped, little engine room – it was a struggle. But if we hadn’t of had the wing engine we might have died – we would have been lost at sea.”
Pirates also presented problems.
“We were going to come from India and go up to the Red Sea and go through the Mediterranean Sea, but Somalia is there and there were a lot of people that were being captured and held for ransom,” Tom said. “That’s where we made the decision to go around South Africa, and that added a lot of miles to our trip. But it was necessary.
“We ran dark – meaning we had no lights,” Tom continued. “We turned off our radar; we turned off our Automatic Identifying System. At night we were completely pitch black. If you so much as left the radar on they could use that beam to find you.”
Less life-threatening but no less important, the family was constantly on the lookout for other children for Emily to play with.
“When we left – at age 8 – mom and dad were the world,” Tom said. “But as she got older, most kids want to play with other kids. So we would seek out other boats that had kids and we would cruise with them. The problem is that, after a while, she was always saying goodbye. They make a friend and they make them quick, then a month or two later they have to say goodbye again.”
Emily’s longest friendship began in Madagascar and included a four-month stay in South Africa and stops in St. Helena and Brazil.
“It was a boy and a girl from Tasmania – Zeke and Nina,” she said. “We met in Madagascar and we cruised with them for about a year. That’s the longest I’ve ever been with another boat.”
COMING HOME
Since returning to the states, the family has enjoyed many of the comforts that were unavailable at sea.
“Ever since they got here they’ve been in the bathtub,” Shirley said.
“Every night,” said Tom. “We really missed that.”
Kim is relishing having a kitchen to move around in. “I’m enjoying the space and all the pots and pans,” she said. “The washing machine has been really nice too. We have a little washing machine on the boat, but most of the time I was using a bucket. I have a new appreciation for a lot of things.”
“We were in a restaurant the other day and Emily came out and said, ‘I can’t believe there is automatic flush on the toilet – automatic soap – automatic paper towels,” Shirley said.
The Lawlers plan on returning to Connecticut, unloading their “treasures,” and living in a small family owned cottage in Massachusetts. Tom said they would sell the boat and build a new home next spring.
Emily will attend school in the U.S. for the first time since 2008, entering the ninth grade in late August. “I can’t wait to meet some new friends, but I haven’t been to school in six years so I’m a little nervous,” she said.
Asked about her six years at sea Emily said, “I think it takes a brave person; it was a good experience, but I wouldn’t do it again.”
Kim was less diplomatic.
“I always said it takes a naïve or a stupid person,” she said with a laugh.
“When they first started out they were down in the Bahamas, and every time they would see something or go scuba diving and see some beautiful fish Emily would say, ‘OK, now we can go home?’” said Shirley. “And her father would say, ‘but what are you going to see tomorrow?’”

 “And there were always new experiences or discoveries,” said Tom. “Emily swam with dolphins in the Caribbean, sea lions in Galapagos, sharks in Samoa, humpback whales in Tonga and got her full SCUBA certification in Fiji. During the six years she has ridden an elephant, horses, a camel and an ostrich.”
Life – they all agreed – will be simpler than it was before the trip.
“You come back and appreciate what you have,” Kim said. “It’s amazing – the majority of people we saw are still cooking on a wood fire and living in a hut.”
“I wanted Emily to see that,” Tom said. “I wanted her to know that the United States is unusual in the way we live and the things we have. There are a lot of things that kids get into – little toys and gadgets – and they think that they have to have them. But they really don’t. I think she knows enough now to make that distinction.”
“We won’t waste water or waste energy like we used to,” Emily said.
Kim said the family intends to build an environmentally friendly house where she hopes to have a vegetable garden.
“But the first thing we’re going to do is go out and get a puppy,” she said. “And we’ll have chickens and we’ll have goats and we’ll live simply.”
The Lawlers kept a blog during their travels filled with hundreds of vivid photos and descriptions of the places they saw and the people they met. Visit www.mvemilygrace.blogspot.comto follow their journey.
We may not post too much beyond this since all my Dear readers already know all about living ashore…unless you beg…
Tom

Maryland, New Jersey and New York

We had a nice visit with Tom’s family in Ocean City, Maryland.  His mother lives 15 minutes away from the marina and we spent all but two nights sleeping off the boat at her home.  All three of us luxuriated in baths almost every night and really slept soundly in her beds. We played cards or other games each night and it was like we had never left.  She had a small list of things to do mostly in her kitchen area that was being updated.  Most items were completed quickly and we were happy to help out.  We also did some other little items and some cleaning but brother Jeff has been doing most of this work for the past six years.

 
While we visited, a local mechanic sorted out problems with a generator (new raw water and coolant pumps) and lugger transmission (reverse plates missing and damaged seals from Africa repair).  The work was more expensive than we have grown used to but the work seemed to be done right and higher prices, I fear, are going to be the norm from here on.

As a bonus, Tom got to see his brother Mike working on the kitchen and brother Jeff and sister-in-law Peggy and two of their 6 kids.  Emily really enjoyed playing with Brian who had latched on to her and never tired of playing games. We enjoyed being paraded around to my mother’s bingo and AARP clubs and we even got interviewed by Ocean City Today for an article about the circumnavigation.
After two weeks, we headed out to sea and after two quick stops in Atlantic City and Sandy Hook, we found ourselves anchored just off Liberty Park in New Jersey just across from New York City.  We still cannot believe that there is a free, protected anchorage near this city where most marinas charge about $200 per night for dockage. The half-broken dingy dock that was here in 2008 is now gone and we now have to dingy right under the Statue of Liberty torch and by Ellis Island to leave the dingy at the expensive marina.  From here we can take a $7 ferry right to the World Trade center in Manhattan.  

We stayed here for 5 nights exploring the city for two days. On our first day, we saw the 911 memorial that was quite moving and the new World Trade Center building (Freedom Tower) that was built while we were traveling. 

 

We then took the subway uptown to spend the day in the Museum of Natural History. We spent a full day exploring the museum and barely scratched the surface.  The pterosaur exhibit and the exhibit on poisons were particularly well done.  

 
One exhibit worked by standing on a special pad and flapping your arms, you could control a live video of a flying and hunting pterosaur.  Emily understood that all the information was being transmitted though her feet to the computer.  The foot pads could detect arms flapping by the fluctuating changes in foot pressure.  Pressure on the toes would cause the bird to dive for fish and pressure on the heels would make him soar higher.  Left and right turns would be directed by the differences in pressure caused by leaning…very well done.

Emily found it interesting that many of the poisons like the tarantula, manchineel tree and poison dart frogs had been seen (and handled) first hand! We also saw the Mysteries of the Unseen World in their IMAX theatre.

Day two kept us closer to the boat and we spent the day inside the Liberty Science Center which was about a 10 minute walk from our anchorage.  Although many of the exhibits and interactive displays were geared toward kids younger than Emily, there was still plenty to keep us amused all day.  A high cool factor was given to the 3D simulator that required remote operation of two robotic arms to do delicate tasks like moving and transferring small objects.  Emily was much better at this than Dad.
 

We also saw two movies (Great White Shark and Island of Lemurs: Madagascar) in the nation’s largest IMAX dome theater.  The domed screen is 88 feet in diameter and seats 400 which is just a tad bigger than the 17” screen on Emily Grace.

 

After a quiet Sunday aboard doing homeschool and a few boat repairs, we headed back to the city. Although the subway was crowded with morning rush hour traffic, we did not experience 105 dB music, smell any stinkfruit (durian) or see anyone carrying live goats or chickens.   
The first stop was FAO Swartz (toy store) uptown near central park.  Emily experienced culture shock with 3 floors of toys.  We next wandered around central park seeing the Handsome cabs and did some people watching around the pond. We found authentic Maine lobster rolls for lunch at Luke’s Lobster in the Plaza food center.  
We strolled down 5th avenue enjoying the elaborate window displays.  St Patricks’ Cathedral was covered with scaffolding for renovations and Rockefeller center was converted into a restaurant, so things were less impressive than we remembered.  Not discouraged though, we rounded the corner a turned into a LEGO store.  Emily has not tired of LEGO and we even found a couple of bargains.  She hand built 3 mini-figures and filled a container with all the special pieces she could fit in a special cup.
We were back on the boat by late afternoon and slept good again in the Liberty Park anchorage.  Tomorrow we will ride the 3-4 knot current up the East River through Hell’s Gate and into Long Island sound.  Our plan is to slowly work our way back towards Groton and our old yacht club in Pine Island by early July.  Our old car is still being revived after sitting for 6 years and we are uncertain where we will find dockage while we unpack the boat.  Any Readers with dockage in the area are encouraged to let us know.
Tom

Moving North up the Ditch


It was a bumpy overnight ride from Charleston to Carolina Beach, NC.  We slipped by Cape Fear into the intracoastal, through Snows Cut and down Masonburo Sound to find our destination.  Carolina Beach is a nice town with the ocean on one side and the calm sound on the other with cottages lined up between.  We were greeted at a really nice dingy dock where they had individual slips for each dingy with proper cleats.  We tied up and enjoyed strolling the town. 

We found a nice place serving local fried oyster Po-Boys that were really good.  As we walked near the beach we saw a line of not less than 60 people lined up at Britts.  We found out that they only serve one thing…hot, fresh glazed doughnuts!  Since the locals promised that they were famous “round these parts”, we joined the line and chowed down.  They were, in fact, good.
44 miles up the ditch, we pulled into Mike Hammock Bay for the night, which is a part of Camp Lejune.  We enjoyed watching the Marines playing war around us in the sea and air.
 
Another 40 miles up the ditch brought us to Beaufort, NC.  We visited the North Carolina Maritime Museum were they had all kinds of artifacts from Blackbeards ship Queen Anne’s Revenge that was recently found nearby.  We stocked up at the Piggly Wiggly grocery store (I just love that name) and moved on.
 
Two more anchorages in the Nuese and Alligator Rivers allowed us to rest for two nights tied up at the free Elizabeth City docks.  Kim spotted turtles all along the rivers and even saw one alligator. We even found a free electrical plug in Elizabeth City that I could reach with two 100 foot extension cords I had aboard.  It was enjoyable being able to step ashore and not running the generator to keep the batteries happy was also nice.
Another two nights and we crossed into Virginia and pulled into a dock at Atlantic Yacht Basin.  They are known for quality work and I needed a second opinion on a transmission problem.  Unfortunately they confirmed that I will need to pull it out of the boat (as I did in Africa 2 years ago) and change some seals.  Their quote was too high so we made arrangements to have this work done while we visit with my mother in Ocean City, Maryland.
We moved 10 miles to the north and found ourselves in Norfolk, Va.  Here we found the Chrysler Museum and Glassworks to be extraordinary and, even better, both were free to enter.  
 
 
The car magnate opened his collection to the public and we all enjoyed the artwork and artifacts from around the world.   
 
 
The blown glass, cameos and paintings were breathtaking and this statues face really captured my emotion as I discovered that my transmission needed to be repaired again!
We visited the Glassworks and saw a presentation where a glass vase was created and blown from liquid glass to the finished product.
We had one more day to wait for weather to move up in the Atlantic Ocean to Ocean City Maryland, so we went ashore again.  This day we visited the Nauticus museum. We spent 2 hours in the morning just going through the museum and had lunch out side and came back to see the ship.  Berthed at Nauticus, the Wisconsin is one of the largest and last battleships ever built by the U.S. Navy. It was impressive and Emily liked seeing the oversized equipment like anchors and windlass compared to our little ship.
The weather report finally said go and we headed out to sea again.  It was another overnight passage to Ocean City and we slipped into the marina at 8:30 AM.  Once hooked up to power and water and rinsed off, we called my mother who lives in nearby Berlin.  We will get our transmission and generator all fixed up while we visit for 2 weeks.  My mother has a short list of handyman items that I can help with and the whole crew is looking forward to long baths and beds that don’t move!
Tom

Charleston,South Carolina


Well, Emily Gracemay well have tried to make us linger in Charleston as she proceeded to let the overboard macerator pump fail on the passage from Georgia.  Since this little pump allows us to discharge waste when 3 miles offshore, it is mighty important and she may have succeeded. The captain, however, thwarted any such mutinous plan by having 2 spare pump impellers aboard.  Although that fixed the problem, the captain was also ready with another complete replacement pump!

 
In any event, we entered the Ashley River and found the private mooring ball that we had found and reserved using Active Captain on our Coastal Explorer navigation software.  Unfortunately the owner had left a decrepit dingy tied to it using copious amounts of rope.  Despite valiant efforts by Captain and crew, we couldn’t get the tangled line free with our boat hook and ended up with the dingy painter wrapped around the underwater stabilizer fin.  A local boater came over and with his help and the swift 2 knot current, we managed to break free unharmed and get temporarily re-attached to the mooring/dingy mess.  The owner of the mooring was then called and he borrowed my knife to cut off the tangled mess he had left us and we were then properly attached to the mooring ball.  It all worked out well, since we paid him $15 per night for a $20 per night mooring.  He got a $45 windfall for our 3-night stay and we got a good deal.

After foiling the mutiny and surviving the attack mooring ball, the crew deservedly went ashore to explore Charleston.  We found the gracious waterfront mansions and well-made but overpriced sweetgrass baskets were still as we left them back in our 2008 visit.  We revisited the oldest museum in America, the old slave market and the historic Nathaniel Russell house.
America’s oldest museum happens to be The Charleston Museum right here in South Carolina. It opened in 1773, and from the beginning, displayed geological specimens from its surrounding areas.  Outside there is a replica of the American Civil War H. L. Hunley submarine of the Confederate States of America. Drawing from my vast experience working at the Groton submarine factory (Ha Ha), I explained to Emily that the Hunley demonstrated the advantages and the dangers of undersea warfare. She was the first combat submarine to sink a warship, although Hunley was not completely submerged and, following her successful attack, was lost along with her crew before she could return to her base.  Apparently, the bowsprit containing the explosive charge was not quite long enough!
 
The exhibits inside run the gamut from textile and clothing to silver to lowcountry life, rise of the South, Revolutionary War, Civil War, natural history, and the most impressive arsenal of weaponry I’ve ever seen. If we only had one of these multibarrel rifles aboard, maybe we could have gone through the Somalia pirate waters!
 
The slave markets only redeeming quality is the ability to see the nicely made sweetgrass baskets.  Since we found and bought these same baskets in Dominica for less than 1/10th of the selling price here, we simply looked and complemented the ladies on their work.  Among the cheap trinkets being hawked here, Emily found some cool resin hair thingy’s she hopes will be OK with the school girls in Ludlow, Mass.
 
Located in Downtown Charleston near High Battery, the Nathaniel Russell House Museum at 51 Meeting Street, is widely recognized as one of America’s most important neoclassical dwellings and was worth the stop. The Historic Charleston Foundation purchased the National Historic Landmark in 1955, and the house served as the Foundation’s headquarters for 37 years. Today, the interiors are restored to their original 1808 grandeur and surrounded by formal gardens.

Nathaniel Russell was born in Bristol, Rhode Island. He settled in Charleston at the age of 27 in 1765, when Charleston was a bustling seaport. By 1774, Charleston boasted a per capita of wealth nearly four times that of all the American colonies. Russell’s career as a merchant involved the shipment of cargoes to and from New England, the West Indies, South America, Virginia, Great Britain, continental Europe, West Africa and Asia.

While most of his profits came from the exportation of staples, such as Carolina Gold rice, indigo, tobacco and cotton, Russell handled a broad range of imported goods. He also participated in the African slave trade both before and after the American Revolution.

The Nathaniel Russell House is an excellent example of the Adam style of architecture. Russell’s house was built when local carpenters had a decade of experience with the light and airy manner made popular by Robert Adam. His house has been called an exercise in ellipses, for from its free-flying stair to the wrought iron balconies, to the principal windows and doors, we found it to be extraordinary. It was the last great house of the city’s post-revolutionary period. Built in 1809, the house was listed in the National Register in 1971 and Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1973.

We also stepped into the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The Cathedral seats 720 people and is noted for its Franz Mayer & Co. stained glass, hand painted Stations of the Cross, and neo-gothic architecture. The cornerstone was laid in 1890, and the church opened in 1907.

The sides of the Sanctuary are adorned with windows depicting the 4 Gospel writers with their winged creatures. Above the High Altar is the Chancel window. The top section is a rose window depicting St. John the Baptist baptizing Jesus with the Holy Spirit above. It is surrounded by 8 adoring angels playing instruments. Above the Rose window is a Sacred Heart. To the left of the Rose window is a pelican feeding her three newborn pelicans, and to the right is the Lamb of God. Below all of this is a 5-light replica of Da Vinci’s Last Supper.

In general, Charleston was a nice stop.  They need some free dingy docks and the shuttle busses (although free) were really overcrowded; but those are minor complaints.  After 2 tiring days of sightseeing, Tom started to plot the trip up the ditch towards North Carolina.  When we compared 3 long days of hand steering and bridge openings, we again decided to head for the ocean since we could do the same trip easily overnight.  Come along as our next stop will be in Carolina Beach, North Carolina.

Tom

Florida to Georgia


We grabbed a $20 per night mooring from the St. Augustine Municipal Marina and enjoyed their nice dingy dock and WiFi from the boat.  The town was picturesque but we decided to head straight for Ripley’s Believe it or Not Museum.   It was a quirky collection of items collected around the world by one man.  We explained to Emily that as kids we would read about little bits and pieces of this collection weekly in our local town newspaper.  We were delighted that he had items from the many parts of the world that we had also seen, like Fiji, Vanuatu and Tahiti. Some of the items like this enormous carving from solid ivory were breathtaking.   

 

And many were simply silly.

We toured the Castillo San Marcos fort and enjoyed a guided tour from a knowledgeable historian.  He gave detailed information about the design and construction of the fort and explained that it was never breached although attacked many times.

 
Another day we enjoyed the Lightner museum and Flagler College.  We learned that Flagler made millions in Railroads and built much of this town.  The museum and college were once his hotels and he also built a magnificent church in memory of his daughter who died shortly after childbirth.

 

After 3 nights in St. Augustine, we motored up the ditch (intracoastal waterway) and anchored right off a stately southern plantation.   

 

The Kingsley Plantation has now been taken over by the Park system so the dock and a self-guided 2 hour tour (using an I-Phone) were all free. This plantation was unique in that Kingsley (a white man) had bought a (black) slave girl and made her his wife.  She was ultimately freed by him but owned and ruled over several slaves herself in her lifetime.  We enjoyed seeing the plantation house, stables and kitchen and the slave houses that were arranged in a village-like semi-circle.  This was a lovely, peaceful stop with quiet starlit nights and dolphins surfacing all around our home.

With the wind and seas calm, we headed off shore for the trip north to St. Marys River.  We tucked in the mouth of the river and turned north to enter Georgia and anchor off Cumberland Island.  This is also 90% national park land and free to us cruisers. The island had several mansions built by the Carnegie family (founder of US Steel) and the family horses were set free to roam here forever. 

 

We joined in on a 1 hour guided tour by a ranger that had lived on this island for 31 years. Understandably, she was very knowledgeable about the history and island wildlife.  We saw the Dungeness Mansion that was burned down in the 1950s but was still imposing.

 
We had time to walk to the Ocean side and enjoy the beach and the wildlife.

 

The wind and seas were still light 2 days later and we decided to push out to sea for an overnight passage to Charleston.  I am writing this blog while offshore and out of sight of land.  The seas are silky smooth with barely a ripple. Long period swells are rolling in from Africa and our home is slowly rising and falling as if we are riding on the back of an enormous, breathing creature.   

We plan to be on a mooring on the Ashley river and in sight of the dock where we first saw Emily Grace and purchased her in 2006.  We have a symbiotic relationship, this little ship and I.  I have mended her when she was broken and she has sheltered us from storms and raging seas. I wonder, Dear Reader, if Emily Grace will remember her previous life or is now content in the life she shares with our small family.
Tom

Back to America…after 6 years

We had a perfect 24 hour passage from Great Sale Cay in the Abacos to Port Canaveral, Florida.  The winds were less than 10 knots (many less than 5 knots), calm seas and we arrived on time, 20 minutes before the marina opened at 8:00 AM.  We tied up at the fuel dock and 30 minutes later we were pumping 300 gallons of diesel into the tanks.  This fuel purchase got us 2 free nights at the marina which was hard to pass up.

Although we did have to catch a cab ride to customs and immigration, they did not board us or inspect anything.  The next day we met my cousin Nancy who informed us that she would be loaning us her car for our stay.  That was a very generous offer and we made good use of it over the next week finding and buying parts and provisions.  We now have an AT and T working cell phone and internet for our trip up the coast.  We arrived with almost empty freezers and now they are jammed full.  

We had several dinners with Cousins Barbara and Nancy and Barbara’s daughters’ family.  As they did in 2009, they fed us delicious meals and wanted nothing in return.  Connie and Bob have a daughter, Katherine, almost the same age as Emily.  She is smart as a whip and Emily quickly renewed the friendship started as we passed through in 2008. 

One night we bought take-out Chinese for everyone and we watched photo and video highlights from our trip while we ate.  We were so happy that Cousin Barry also joined us as we thought he would not be traveling north to see us.  Emily wrote a nice thank you note inside a book that Barry had loaned Emily back in 2008 and returned it to him.  It became one of her favorite books and now Barry has a book that has travelled around the world.
We managed to spend an entire day at the Kennedy Space Center and found it very enjoyable.  Emily did not recall much from our earlier visit and they had added several exhibits and well as the chance to see the Space Shuttle Atlantis up close.  Emily really enjoyed the simulators where we experienced the thrust of a shuttle launch and could try our hand at docking with the space station and manipulating the robotic arm.

We even got to drive the rover on the moon.  Really…can’t you see the earth behind us?

Despite requests that we stay longer, we have now pushed away from the Marina and are creeping slowly north up the Intra Coastal Waterway.  It is slow since we have to call ahead for bridge openings, or time our arrival to fixed opening times.  It is a refreshing change for us to have such calm waters and to enjoy the sights along the way.  We go through a few locks and some areas require planning for high tide so we do not run aground.  My line handlers also are good at pointing out manatees in the lock!  

We stopped overnight at a free dock in New Smyrna which is certainly in our budget. 

 
Kim is looking forward to stopping in Saint Augustine for a few days since we missed this lovely town on our dash south in 2008.  We were told to expect forts and museums and quaint shops and restaurants.  Come along and share our trip up the coast.

Although

The Abacos


We had a smooth passage north towards the Abacos and our first stop was at Spanish Wells in northern Eleuthera.  The winds were west so we tucked on the east side of Meeks patch and the next day as the winds went North we anchored just south of Russell Island.  From here it was an easy dingy ride into Spanish Wells.

Spanish Wells is a very unique island. It is almost all white and very prosperous. It is also dry so no alcohol is sold or served in restaurants. The main industry is fishing and the major catch is crayfish or Bahamian Lobster. Spanish Wells supplies over half of the lobsters for all of the Bahamas and the fisherman make a very good living.  We saw several of the mother boats returning to harbor with their catch.  They towed the small boats used by divers hunting for lobster and conch.  Most mother ships had at least 3 and sometimes as many as 6 of the small boats.
We went in and filled a propane gas tank, did some food shopping and had a nice lunch.  Kim suffered without her normal Kalik beer but somehow survived.  These kids were jumping of the bridge and agreed to perform for us.  We bought some grouper directly from a fisherman but the lobster prices were too dear for us.
After a quiet night we made the 10 hour passage to the Abacos and anchored just inside Lynyard Cay where we found a calm spot to drop the hook in about 8ft over white sand.  The next day we took a 2 mile dingy ride into Little Harbor.

Our guidebooks say Little Harbor “comes close to anyone’s dream of a Bahamian hideaway”. It is a much protected bay with a mixed shoreline of high rock cliffs and caves, a smattering of cottages, and a sandy beach. 
We were enticed ashore by the aromas wafting from Pete’s pub. The pub has a roof, but no walls or floor, a small bar area and large eating area with heavy wood tables and benches that sit on the sand. You could wiggle your toes in the warm sand floor and read the signed tee shirts hanging from the ceiling. The pub served burgers, conch and a variety of fresh caught fish…grouper, snapper, wahoo, and Kim had trigger fish…excellent. After lunch at the pub we wandered to the Gallery where bronze works were displayed and for sale.
 
This is the Gallery, Studio and Forge of the late Randolph Johnstone, well known artist of bronze sculptures. His sculptures became famous and ultimately lucrative. One of his large works, titled “St. Peter: Fisher of Men,” rests in the Vatican’s museum in Rome. It is now his son Pete Johnston, himself an acclaimed bronze & wood sculptor, who operates the facility. 
  
There were some pieces done by the late Randolph Johnstone but most of the pieces were done by his son Pete (hence ‘Pete’s Pub’). Emily bought a nice leather belt with a cast turtle buckle.  Further along the path we came to the Studio and Foundry, where the bronzes are cast. We were unable to see the casting process, which is done only a few times during the summer season.
We met a nice couple cruising on Mud Puddle Rose, a Grand Banks, and we went north with them for a snorkel on Sandy Cay.  The snorkeling was good but the swell made it a little rolly.  After the snorkel both boats moved north just outside Hopetown for calmer waters where Joe and Susan joined us on Emily Grace for dinner with Kim’s nasi goreng. Joe was full of cruising tips for the few remaining cays to my northwest and it was a nice evening.  They brought their poodle Bocci and Emily enjoyed playing with her.
 
Next we motored north to Hopetown.  Hope Town was settled by British Loyalists who were seeking safe refuge after the American Revolution.  Many of the settlers came from the Carolinas, by way of East Florida, after that area was turned over to Spain in the Peace of Paris (1783).  The same treaty called for the evacuation of New York by the loyalists.  Many people moved back to England, Canada, or south to the British Caribbean.  The initial settlements were at Carleton (near the current Treasure Cay) and Marsh Harbour.  By 1785, there were over 1,000 refugees in Abaco who were distributed in five or six settlements.  The settlement at Hope Town was founded in 1785, in part, by a widow from South Carolina named Wyannie Malone.  Wyannie, along with her children, started a dynasty in Hope Town that spread the Malone name throughout the Bahamas, over to Florida, and outwards from there.
Every magazine picture of the Bahamas includes a photograph of one very historic lighthouse. After making our arrival at Hope Town Marina, we proceeded to the end of the island to the lighthouse steps. After a short walk to the entrance to the lighthouse, you enter, and then work your way up six levels to the top. You get great views of the Abacos in almost every direction.
 
 
  
This lighthouse is the only kerosene fueled lighthouse remaining in the Bahamas. There once were three, but technology and cost of ownership, has seen two of the remaining three converted. This lighthouse has been added to the UNESCO trust.
The candy striped tower rises 124 steps above the mound upon which it stands. The mechanism that rotates the light is a clockwork mechanism that is powered by a huge weight and must be rewound every two hours. The 8000 pound burner and its Fresnel lens rotate on a pool of mercury that reduces friction. A light push of the hand is enough to turn it. Construction of the lighthouse was opposed by inhabitants of Hope Town who made their living salvaging valuable cargo from ships that wrecked in the shallow waters. In one incident, salvers rescued the cargo of a ship en route to Cuba—slaves. They took the human cargo to Nassau where they were set free.
It is a picturesque little town with small, colorful houses, lots of flowers and narrow streets and lanes.  There is only one real street that forks into two branches for a short distance. That street is navigable by small cars and trucks but the most common form of transportation is the golf cart. The lanes are so narrow that they are accessible only to pedestrians and bicycles.
We were walking along looking at the pastel painted houses when we came across a small tree being devoured by about a dozen of these enormous colorful caterpillars.  We looked them up when we got back and found that they become a large but very dull looking moth.
 
Pseudosphinx tetrio is a species of moth in the family Sphingidae. Its common names include tetrio sphinx, giant gray sphinx, frangipani hornworm, and plumeria caterpillar. It is native to the tropical and subtropical Americas from the southern and southwestern United States to Brazil. The occasional individual has been recorded as far north as the northeastern United States so we must be getting close to home.

After Hopetown, we anchored in Marsh Harbor which is a good size town with a US style grocery store.  We got a few provisions to hold us until we reach Florida.  After the winds clocked around east again, we visited Great Guana Cay.  We first anchored in Bakers bay that was created by a cruise ship company.  They dredged out a deep water bay and actually created an island with the dredged sand.  The cruise ship company has long abandoned this harbor but the island was great for collecting shells.  After 2 days we moved just outside Settlement harbor for lunch at Nippers Bar.
Next stop was Green Turtle Cay and we anchored outside the harbor for the first night.  Tom took the dingy into Black Sound with the depth sounder and made sure Emily Gracewould not run aground going in the narrow, shallow channel.  The next morning at high tide we entered without any drama with 8 inches under the keel…plenty of depth!  Inside we found deeper water and grabbed a mooring ball at $15 per night at Donny’s Dock.
Originally settled in 1783 by the “Loyalists” escaping the revolutionary war, Green Turtle Cay is one of the most historical of the out islands. New Plymouth, Green Turtle’s main settlement with its brightly painted clapboard and gingerbread adorned houses and narrow picket fence lined streets is reminiscent of a quaint New England town. 
 
The town offers several historical sites including its 200 year old cemetery, the Cays original jail (now painted pink) a model schooner museum, Albert Lowe Museum, a Sculpture Garden with bronze busts of famous Bahamian historical figures along with many historical homes. 
 
We rented a golf cart for two days and Emily really enjoyed driving around.  The Captain took over in the narrow concrete streets of New Plymouth but Emily did pretty good elsewhere.   
We enjoyed lunches ashore and bought some local coconut bread warm from the oven.  We are now officially famous since we were recognized by some strangers who have been reading our blog.  They nervously approached us at a restaurant and asked if we were that famous circumnavigator family.  News quickly spread around the dock and soon other cruisers were coming by to ask about favorite places, best equipment to have on a cruising boat, how much it all cost, etc.  The captain handed out wisdom and stories while Emily folded and handed out origami birds and dragons.  It was all pretty cool and yes, we now all have swelled heads.  

After Green Turtle Cay we moved to an uninhabited island called Powell Cay.  It was recommended by Aries II as a nice place to relax in front of a white sand beach.  It was just that and Kim and Emily snorkeled and collected more shells there.  We stayed 2 days until the winds shifted and drove us into the protected shores of Coopers Town.  There we walked the small working town and found a restaurant to serve us cracked conch fritters.  
We stopped once more at Crab Cay to collect the weather while we were within range of the cell towers.  Since we now have a good forecast we will head off tomorrow.  Tomorrows’ run will be a 7 hour run to Great Sale Cay and will take us out of cell phone/internet range .  This is other uninhabited island with a white sand beach.  We will spend the night there and leave Wednesday morning for the 160 mile passage across the Gulf Stream and into Cape Canaveral. The key here is to avoid any north winds that would oppose the swift north flowing current and build big waves.  With any luck our last tricky passage will go well.  
Stay tuned Dear reader to see how we did.
Tom