Port #11: No Beavers Noted Here…Just Ducks!

Great Loop II Date: 8/17/2014

Day #18 (Sunday): 48 miles (638 total miles)

Locks: 0 (2 total locks)

Port #11:  Beaver Island, MI (anchorage)

OB had another shorter day ahead so we didn’t rush around to get underway.  Leaving St. Ignace was anticlimactic compared to our entry.  The winds were close to calm and the seas were fine.

The skies were cloudy but we had another magnificent sunrise.  Cloudy skies don’t always dictate bad weather…many times it’s wonderfully calm.

We passed under the Mackinac Bridge and headed west around some shoals and fish nets. The Michigan coast line has many islands and shoals.  Unfortunately, most travel cannot be made in a straight line.

The Mackinac Bridge is not only spectacular but historic.  It was the largest suspension bridge built at the time…1957.  There is a magnificent video made during the building of the bridge (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFsy_EHWM-Q) .  My cousin sent it to me and it made seeing and crossing under the bridge even more amazing.
There was some corrosion control work underway at both ends of the bridge.  I’m guessing that is a constant with such a large bridge exposed to some very extreme weather.

Charlie didn’t get the idea of being in a very historic place.

 Once all the shoals were behind us, Todd was able to take us west to Beaver Island.  We anchored in St. James Bay.  The sun broke out and we had a pleasant afternoon.

Terry and Ken from Roundabout came by in their dinghy.  We had a nice visit and compared travel intentions.  Their plans were to go to Petoskey or Traverse Bay, MI next.  Our plans were to go to Washington Island, WI.

Roundabout…Loopers from Connecticut.
The lighthouse at Beaver Island.
I think this was the abandoned boathouse I read about.  There is a huge, decaying wood boat inside.
A panoramic shot of the downtown area on Beaver Island…St. James City.
The Emerald Isle…the ferry serving Beaver Island.
Watching the Captain bring the ferry to the dock was very interesting.  He had separate pilothouse atop the stern of the ferry where he controlled the docking.

After a good dinner of barbecued pork chops, roasted vegetables with some of Laurel’s wonderful green beans and salad, we turned on the TV to check the weather channel.  A storm front was approaching from the west.  Our plans to go to Washington Island were in jeopardy.  Washington Island did not look like a good option in a stormy situation.  They have very little dockage and unprotected.  Two to three days riding windy seas at anchor was not attractive option or even safe.  We spent the rest of the evening deciding a different route.

Sunset at another pristine anchorage.

We went to bed a little depressed that our plans were changing.  As we were trying to go to sleep, we could hear this constant tap, tap, tap moving slowly around the boat.  The mystery noise went on for about an hour when finally one of the culprits gave itself away.  I could hear a quack, quack, quack just outside the hull and realized we had a couple of ducks eating the moss from around our waterline.  Good job, ducks…now we have a clean waterline!

Port #10: Dodging High Speed Ferries…

Great Loop II Date: 8/15/2014

Day #16 (Friday): 45 miles (590 total miles)

Locks: 0 (2 total locks)

Port #10:  St. Ignace, MI

The cold air just did not give up.  I wore jeans, Todd refused and stayed in his shorts and Charlie stopped shedding.  The consensus of the crew was that fall was possibly making an early appearance.

Another good view of the Detour Reef Light.  It signifies we’re back on the path of the Great Loop.
Lot’s of pictures of the Big Girls out here, eh?  Well there’s lot’s of Big Girls. Soon these Big Girl pictures will transform into barge and tow pictures in the rivers after Chicago.  They all carry way more than the semi-trucks on the highways.
Our first views of Big Mac (the Mackinac Bridge) were a little before I took this photo.  We spotted it 20 miles out.  To see it, you’ll have to click on the photo and make it bigger.  Remember to click on the white X in the right corner to come back to the blog.
A better view of Big Mac as we were heading into the Detour Marina.

We had following seas to St. Ignace once we left the St. Mary River.  All was well until we tried to figure out the harbor entrance.  The markers were confusing and the high speed ferries running in front of us make entering tough.  Worse yet, the wind was very strong out of the North.

St. Ignace Harbor is protected by huge rock walls and the boulders came well out into the channel.  We wanted to pump out the holding tank and take on some diesel but the conditions would not permit it.  After one failed attempt at the gas dock, we went straight to our assigned dock.  Once there, we found the harbormaster had assigned us to a starboard tie up which we were sure to fail because of the wind.  I was talking to her on the VHF radio and mainly said,”Oops, missed that one, we’re taking the next one for a port tie up and the wind will put us to the dock!”  I’m not used to overriding an assignment…and I think I might have said that to her.

The high speed ferry terminal was just north of the Detour Marina.  Imagine two of these crossing in front of us, each going opposite ways, as we were battling a strong northwest wind coming into a narrow harbor entrance full of big rocks.  It was a little testy for the Captain.  Some of the rock wall protecting the harbor is visible in the right upper corner.
OB at her dock.  The rock wall is visible behind us.  Notice, OB is not sternned in in this picture.  We had to bring her in bow first because the wind was so obstructive to our navigation.
Our first Looper sighting.  Untide was a few slips down from OB.  It’s always nice to start meeting folks doing what you’re doing…experiencing an adventure…and it’s ALWAYS an adventure with new twists and turns.

We stayed in St. Ignace an extra day due to more poor weather conditions.  The layover allowed us to see the town, get some wash done, enjoy a wonderful prime rib dinner at the Galley Restaurant, sit on our bridge sipping some red wine and eating fudge while watching a superb fireworks display.  All in all, St. Ignace was a wonderful stop aside from the horrid wind.

We were impressed with the clarity of the water here.  You could see every stone…as well as the rocks in the harbor that held up the enormous rock wall.


St. Ignace is a cute little town with some great restaurants and shops along the shoreline.  There are also 4 ferry lines that take folks from the UP to Mackinac Island.
Sunset Saturday night before the fireworks display which was an excellent display…especially considering they have it EVERY Saturday night from July 4th until August 31st!

We met two Looper boats while we were in St. Ignace: Monica and Warren on Untide, Terry and Ken on Roundabout.  Untide was taking the Michigan west coast route down Lake Michigan before crossing to Chicago.  Roundabout went to Beaver Island, our destination as well.  From there they planned to run to Ludington on the Michigan west coast, then across Lake Michigan to Milwaukee.  We will most likely see both in the rivers south of Chicago.

Just saying hi and thanks

While Tom B. is enroute to Taiwan to give my girl a last once-over before she heads for home (don’t yet know the freighter’s name, but will share when I do), I thought now would be a good time to thank everyone reading this blog.  For what? some o…

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Salut,
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