Tag Archives | trawlers

Grand Americas Part 5

 

July 20, 2023 – Callao and at Sea

 

After another night aboard ship dockside in Callao, with a tanker moored alongside preventing our departure, the Captain announced at 0800 that he had tried to get an exception and leave the closed port, but was unsuccessful.  However, at 1000 the Captain then announced the port would be opening and we would leave after the pilot boarded about 1300.  At about 1330, the tanker was moved and shortly thereafter Seabourn Quest departed Callao.

 

All further Peruvian ports were cancelled and instead we headed for Arica, Chile, about 700 NM away, requiring about 42 hours to make the transit.

 

July 21, 2023 – At Sea enroute Arica, Chile

 

The seas and winds have remained favorable and we spent much of the day observing birds, whales and fishing boats as we paralleled the coast, averaging 20-25 miles offshore.  Most notable were several humpback whales slapping their pectoral fins and a number of sperm whales, some as close as a few hundred yards off the side of the ship.

 

July 22, 2023 – Arica, Chile

 

We arrived just as the sun was clearing the hills.  The harbor was small, filled with many fishing vessels.  Our shore excursion explored the Chinchorro people who have been in this area since at least 11,000 BC.  The museum had a number of mummies on display as well as descriptions of the processes the indigenous people used, which included removing the hands and feet and putting a clay mask on the face.  There were also petroglyphs on the north facing hill side dating to 800-1250 AD, showing various animals.  The glyphs were constructed from dark volcanic rock, origins unknown, on a lighter colored desert hillside.

 

Chinchorro Mummies

Corn Grinding Stones

The winds blow constantly from the south, so the glyphs are not covered up by blowing sands.  We did drive some way into the Atacama desert, reputed to be the driest desert on earth.  We visited some more recent sculptures in the desert and watched a folkloric dance demonstration.

Folkoric Dance Demonstration

Petroglyphs on hillside

 

Returning to the city center, we visited a local cathedral constructed entirely of metal, which has survived several tsunamis and earthquakes.

 

Inside the all metal cathedral

Arica is a very dry city, but still has a thriving agricultural economy, with irrigation supporting tropical fruits, citrus, tomatoes and olives and also flowers.  Irrigation is only at night and running water is rationed in town also.  We were cautioned not to drink the local tap water due to mineral content, including some heavy metals!

 

  

Grand Americas Part 5

 

July 20, 2023 – Callao and at Sea

 

After another night aboard ship dockside in Callao, with a tanker moored alongside preventing our departure, the Captain announced at 0800 that he had tried to get an exception and leave the closed port, but was unsuccessful.  However, at 1000 the Captain then announced the port would be opening and we would leave after the pilot boarded about 1300.  At about 1330, the tanker was moved and shortly thereafter Seabourn Quest departed Callao.

 

All further Peruvian ports were cancelled and instead we headed for Arica, Chile, about 700 NM away, requiring about 42 hours to make the transit.

 

July 21, 2023 – At Sea enroute Arica, Chile

 

The seas and winds have remained favorable and we spent much of the day observing birds, whales and fishing boats as we paralleled the coast, averaging 20-25 miles offshore.  Most notable were several humpback whales slapping their pectoral fins and a number of sperm whales, some as close as a few hundred yards off the side of the ship.

 

July 22, 2023 – Arica, Chile

 

We arrived just as the sun was clearing the hills.  The harbor was small, filled with many fishing vessels.  Our shore excursion explored the Chinchorro people who have been in this area since at least 11,000 BC.  The museum had a number of mummies on display as well as descriptions of the processes the indigenous people used, which included removing the hands and feet and putting a clay mask on the face.  There were also petroglyphs on the north facing hill side dating to 800-1250 AD, showing various animals.  The glyphs were constructed from dark volcanic rock, origins unknown, on a lighter colored desert hillside.

 

Chinchorro Mummies

Corn Grinding Stones

The winds blow constantly from the south, so the glyphs are not covered up by blowing sands.  We did drive some way into the Atacama desert, reputed to be the driest desert on earth.  We visited some more recent sculptures in the desert and watched a folkloric dance demonstration.

Folkoric Dance Demonstration

Petroglyphs on hillside

 

Returning to the city center, we visited a local cathedral constructed entirely of metal, which has survived several tsunamis and earthquakes.

 

Inside the all metal cathedral

Arica is a very dry city, but still has a thriving agricultural economy, with irrigation supporting tropical fruits, citrus, tomatoes and olives and also flowers.  Irrigation is only at night and running water is rationed in town also.  We were cautioned not to drink the local tap water due to mineral content, including some heavy metals!

 

  

 

Jan 16-17, At Sea enroute Callao, Peru

 

Callao is the cruise port for Lima, Peru, our next scheduled destination.  It is planned for an overnight stop to give those guests who wanted to tour Macchu Picchu enough time to get to Cuzco and on the train to Macchu Picchu.

 

However, demonstrations across Peru, and especially in the Cuzco area, with dozens killed, have forced the cruise line to cancel all Macchu Picchu and Cuzco excursions.  Peru has declared a “state of emergency” in several areas, including Cuzco, Arequipa, Lima and Callao, restricting right of movement and demonstrations.  That has not stopped the people who want the current leader ousted.  The demonstrators have set up many roadblocks on major roads and railways, restricting normal movement.  The current president is the 6^th one since 2018, and the first woman.

 

With that in mind, Miriam and I have chosen to cancel our excursions in Lima and may remain on-board the ship, although so far no tourists have been targeted.

 

The Pacific Ocean has been kind to us the last two days, with only minimal winds and a low to moderate swell on our bow.  There are lots of activities to fill the days and yesterday was a formal evening with a special “Chefs Dinner” with a 6 course fixed menu, quite good.  The weather is warm enough to spend time around the main pool and have most of our meals poolside at the Patio Grill.

 

January 18, Lima (Callao)

 

The ship arrived in light fog which dispersed as we approached the entrance sea buoy and picked up the pilot.  The fleet of fishing boats anchored outside rolled heavily as the offshore swell moved into shallower water and built in height.

 

We docked in a industrial working port, but there were tents shoreside by the gangway with local handicrafts.  Patrick did ride the shuttle to Miraflores in the afternoon.  Miraflores is perched on top of steep cliffs overlooking the Pacific ocean.  The beaches below were filled with surfers, and one of the beaches was named “Waikiki”.  The shuttle stop was in the middle of the “Malecon”, a large park overlooking the ocean, with an upscale shopping mall built underground and down the side of the steep hill.  The mall was mostly upscale clothing shops and many restaurants looking out over the ocean.

“Waikiki” surfing beach in Miraflores

 

The shuttle passed though Callao, a much poorer area which looked pretty rough, with more garbage on the streets, and more boarded up storefronts.

 

January 19, Callao

 

Due to more demonstrations and more deaths, the ship has canceled all shore excursions, including the shuttle bus to Miraflores out of an abundance of caution, with guest safety in mind.  Passengers whose cruise ended here are still going to the airport and crew exchanges are still happening.  The ship’s staff are scrambling to provide additional activities for the guests.

 

Just one hour before departure the Captain made the announcement that all further Peru ports have been cancelled and the port of Callao has been closed to all inbound and outbound traffic.  We also cannot leave until all passports have been cleared out of Peru, so we don’t know when we can leave.