Hanging Around Sitka

Over our past cruises, we’ve visited seven of SE Alaska’s communities that are accommodative of transient pleasure craft. Of those, Sitka is our favorite (although, they all have their charms). It is large enough that it has all the services we need while cruising but not so large that you can’t do everything by foot. It only gets 3 to 5 cruise ships a week versus 3 to 5 a day that Ketchikan and Juneau get. Lastly, it has the longstanding Sitka Summer Music Festival which focuses on chamber music and is in full swing during June.

Our Sitka schedule this year was to tend to boat chores during the day and then go out in the evening to a music festival event. The main venue for the formal concerts is the Cape Burunoff - Povorotni PointHarrigan Centennial Hall, a stunning setting that looks out over southeastern entrance to the harbor.

We arrived in Sitka on June 20 and departed on Saturday, June 23. After that we cruised and anchored out four nights in some of the pleasant anchorages south of town. While Sitka is on the outer coast of Baranov Island, you can travel nearly 30 miles south of Sitka over a route mostly protected from ocean swell (getting around Cape Buronof and Povorotni Point can get a little rolly). Three of the anchorages, Herring Bay, Kidney Cove and Leesofskaia Bay we had visited in the past. New to us 2018-Cruise-030xwas Jamboree Bay, a bit open to the northwest but it was pleasant enough.

On June 27, we returned to Sitka for more chores (oil change being the big one) and attended music festival events the two nights we were in town. On Friday, June 29 we headed out of town to continue our northbound journey.

Miles traveled this leg – 79.0; engine hours – 13.8

Total miles traveled – 1103.0; engine hours – 166.8

Transpac 2, Part I

TRANSPAC 2
Week 1
Marshall Islands to Midway
June 4-11, 2018

* I hope you enjoy the recipes and book references.


June 7, 2018,  some 750 NM north-northeast of the Marshall Islands.

 When I think of crossing oceans on board a power yacht, I want a good captain, one who can fix anything in DOMINO’s twin engine rooms.  Automatically, my mind flashes back to Robert Mitchum (or was that Kirk Douglass? or Bogie? My memory fails me…) peeking out of his stinkpot’s engine room, on a Carribaen-blue background, captain’s cap askew, a crooked smile across his face, nonchalantly wiping his grimy hands on an oily rag (Name that movie?)- Well, I don’t have a movie star on board, but I have my captain JP who, if  not as nonchalant as the heartthrob Mitchum, is at least as handsome in my eyes, and a true mechanic.  In this second transpacific crossing, from Majuro (Marshall Islands) to Sitka (Alaska), a 4,000 NM endeavor, once more I place my life in JP’s very capable hands.

Leaving the Marshalls (bottom left of the screen: all calm)


Day One – June 4, 2018 – For the last ten days, we have kept an eye on the weather.  We had provisioned early, not because we expected an early departure, but because the produce cargo ship had just arrived in town, and in Majuro you buy the produce when it’s on the shelf!  From the GRIB data, we were expecting to get underway on June 8.  But, last night’s data turned our plans upside down: a 3-day window had opened, with almost no wind in the dreaded trade wind belt north of Majuro.  Just like that, we had to go!  I just had time to prepare and freeze some cauliflower au gratin and vegetable lasagna.


CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN – 
  • 2 heads of cauliflower, steamed
  • 2 cups Bèchamel Sauce
  • 1 cup grated Swiss cheese
  • 3 hard boiled eggs, halved lengthwise
In an oven-safe dish, place the steamed cauliflower florets. 
Mix the still-hot Bechamel sauce with the grated Swiss cheese to make a Mornay Sauce.  Pour on top of Cauliflower and eggs.  Bake for 20 minutes, let cool, vacuum-bag lightly and freeze.

The beefy commercial bunkering dock in Majuro.


9 AM local time- We are at the fuel dock in Majuro, bunkering 2,500 Gallons on top of the 420 gallons left in our day tanks.  The fuel is sampled, tested, and not a drop of water found.  This load should take us all the way through our 4,000 NM crossing, at 10 Kts, in average sea conditions.  By 1300 (0100 UTC), after the obligatory rounds of Port Captain, Customs, and immigration, we slip our dock lines and off we go!  The weather GRIBS were right.  Instead of the typical 20-25 Kts trade winds and 2m beam seas, we encountered no wind over 15 kts and no seas above 1 meter, except for a few squalls during the night, 30 knots and buckets of rain, a bit of a roll, but short-lived.  
Day 1 – 239 NM made good
Our planned rhumb line… but Moana had another plan for us!


Day 2 – June 5 – You gotta love it when the GRIBS over-estimate the wind!  We are finding nothing above 10 Kts and a gentle, 1-m long swell.  But why is the sun not showing?  We can’t even identify a definite cloud cover.  The haze drifting from the Hawaiian volcano to the North-East is enveloping us in an eerie, cottony bubble.  Engine checks: all is good, but perhaps a few drops of something under the starboard engine show up on the late evening check, nothing much. Time to bake bread!
Day 2 -244 NM made good

DOMINO’s Multigrain Bread –  In the breadmaker (I use a BREVILLE) pour:
  • 2 1/4c water
  • 2 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1 Tbsp brown sugar
  • 4 cups unbleached bread flour
  • 1 cup organic whole wheat flour
  • 3 Tbsp powdered milk
  • 1/2 Tbsp organic gluten flour (gives added structure to the bread)
  • 1 1/4 Tbsp yeast    
Set the bread maker for basic bread, large loaf, dark crust. 
In the seeds dispenser, add the grains:
  • 1/4 cup oats
  • 1 Tbsp sesame seeds (white or black)
  • 2 Tbsp sunflower seeds
  • 1 Tbsp Chia seeds

3 1/2 hour later, voila!





Day 3 – June 6 – 0100 UTC –  Engine check:  OOPS!  Coolant, a lot of coolant is leaking under the Starboard (STB) engine, something like a half-a-gallon in the bilge… not good!  What possibly could be leaking?  JP’s brain revs up, now in high gear.  On thorough inspection, he finds a lone nut lying in the bilge.  EUREKA! Must come from the turbo.  Sure enough, one the four nuts holding the turbo is missing, the stud broken, the bolt shorn off.  This has to be fixed immediately.  We are at risk of the turbo completely breaking off, hot, dry exhaust gas coming out and setting the boat on fire.  “Not good,” says JP, biting his lower lip.  “Gonna be a bitch to fix!  Dunno if I can do it.  Gonna need to help me.  Gonna be hard to do!”  

In times of crisis like this, the 1st Mate’s job is to get quiet, trust the captain 100%, let him think, and think hard, and be efficient.  But JP and I have worked together for over 40 years, and when the proverbial shit hits the fan, we go into our team mode.  First, turn off the STB engine and keep going on the PORT engine at 900 rpm, still making 7.4 kts, not losing too much headway.  While the STB engine cools off, I periodically irrigate the STB Sureseal to avoid overheating and melting that could be caused by  the still-turning shaft (probably not necessary but the last thing we want on this crossing is a melted-down Sureseal!) 

JP gathers tools, parts, and his wits… just like the old days in the Emergency Clinic!  The plan? Remove the turbo, extract the shorn-off studs, and put everything back in place.  Fortunately, the wind has decreased to 6 knots and the swell is now below 1 meter, a very long and smooth Pacific swell.  Thank you, MOANA!

The culprit: shorn-off bolt #1


And thus it goes:  drain all the coolant, remove the air intake casing, the stainless steel dry exhaust tube, disconnect all hoses to the turbo, and find out that not ONE, but TWO bolts have shorn off.  OK, so remove the last 2 bolts standing and take the turbo out.  Easy-Peasy.  Now the hard part: removing the shorn-off studs.  The 1st one hads a little stub coming out and is removed fairly easily, but not so for the second one, shorn-off flush with the exhaust manifold.  Simple solution:  drill a small hole in the center of the stud, insert an extractor screw, and counter-screw the little bugger out of its place.  No dice! It’s frozen.  Desperate times ask for desperate measures: Propane torch time!  A few drops of penetrating oil, a bit of heat to the area, and BINGO!  Out pops the reluctant stud.

Always a good idea to have an extractor set on board.  Got the broken bolt!

From here on, it’s all back-tracking, taking advantage of the situation to replace the exhaust manifold-to-turbo gasket.  All done?  Check for extra parts left on deck?  None?  That’s good.  Fill up with coolant, settle it, top it off… restart the engine, check for leaks, shift into forward, check for leaks, throttle up, check for leaks, all good.

It took JP just over 5 hours to fix this potentially devastating situation.  But here he was, sweaty, grimy, and a grin on his face, “No leaks!”  Yeah, I like my captain, the fact that he had planned for this eventuality by stocking on parts and tools: gaskets, bolts, studs, coolant, empty drums and cans, drill bits, extractor set, propane torch, even a new lighter! 
After a refreshing shower, JP had earned his favorite dinner: “Timbale aux Coquillettes” (that’s French for Mac-and Swiss-cheese-and-ham casserole, sans les champignons.)
In the morning, not a drop of coolant in the bilge!  Time for a second treat for the Captain: banana bread… oh, did I forget to mention?  We had a bunch of bananas on board!
Day 3 – 225 NM made good
Timbale aux Coquillettes (for 2)
  • 4 Cups cooked macaroni, still hot, salt and pepper
  • 2 Cups grated Swiss Cheese
  • 1 1/2 Cup chopped ham
  • 1 1/2 Cup sautéed mushrooms

Mix the macaroni, ham, mushrooms and half the cheese.  Fill an oven-proof dish with the mixture. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top.  Bake at 350F for 20 minutes, switch to broiler and broil till the top is golden.  Eat half, freeze half.

A perfect day… (we are the white dot)

Day 4 – June 7 – What a perfect day!  Yesterday’s repair of the turbo is holding, no leak, and the weather is as calm as one could wish for — gentle seas and 5 to 10 Kt. wind, and even if it’s on the nose, it remains quite pleasant.  Domino unleashes her long stride, running an easy 10 Kts. at 1180 rpm, burning 6 GPH, a bit hungrier than normal, but expected in head seas, contrary currents, and a full belly.  We lucked out on the weather window, really, since the area we just covered in the last 48 hours is now buffeted by 20-25 Kt. trade winds.  At last, in the afternoon, the winds shift to the SE, giving us a push, and we are now running at 10.8 Kts. at 1100 rpm, 5 GPH… yes, that’s more like it. 

But a Transpac wouldn’t be right without a bit of drama.  Suddenly, a massive squall line appears on the radar, 16 NM in diameter, impossible to avoid, so we brace for it.  For an hour, we are buffeted by sustained 30-kt winds, gusting at 44 Kts,  the mild seas growing into 2-3m head seas, pounding rain and tons of foamy water breaking on deck, strong enough to bend one of our windshield wiper blade… well, that’s a first!  After a 30-mn relative lull, another squall pounds on us, only in the 28-kt range and shorter-lived.  Once more, we brace and let DOMINO perform her usual samba through the pounding seas.  Once more, we are amazed at this awesome powercat’s stability, its ability to rise above the crests and not slam into the troughs, the smoothness of the ride, and we have gotten used to her trademark “samba” sway.  Never do we experience the bone-shuddering slamming that we have witnessed or heard of on so many other catamarans, sail or motor.  Once more, we silently thank Malcolm Tennant and Anthony Stanton for their CS hull design and strong, commercial-grade structure.



  After 3 hours, at last, the wind abates, the rain stops, and the seas gradually recede.  Thankfully, all that rain has scrubbed the air from the volcanic ash and gasses, and we can sea the sun again.  This was the strongest gale we’d ever experienced, but we had learned to trust our boat and felt absolutely confident that DOMINO would strut her stuff when needed, and she didn’t disappoint. 
At last, the sun returned, the wind shifted to the SE and gave us a push once more as we carried on at 11 kts on 5 GPH, 1100 rpm.  Lunch, though, was a small affair, a half a turkey sandwich with a handful of baby carrots… and a slice of banana bread!

Day 4 – 248 NM made good
Cream-Cheese and Honey Turkey Sandwich
Slather cream cheese on both slices.  Arrange basil leaves on the cheese, add a twist of ground pepper.  Place turkey on one side, close the sandwich, slice in half.  Serve with slices of green apple. 


On quiet crossings, JP loves to tinker with boat design.

Day 5 – June 8 – We love it when there is absolutely nothing to report, but sun, calm seas, gentle wind on our STB quarter, and making 11 kts on 5 GPH.  JP throws a trolling line in the water as a flock of red-tailed Phaetons materializes on our stern.  Meanwhile I attend to a bit of laundry, bake bread, and we decide to bake macaroons together.  If the bananas are now gone, we need to get rid of the coconuts: let’s go grate some coconuts!


Coconut Macaroons
 Mix all ingredients together.  With your hands, fashion small cones and place on cookie sheet lined with wax paper.  Bake at 350 for 15 min.  Open the oven door and let dry in the oven 5 minutes more.  Transfer to cooling rack.  

Day 6 – June 9 – Three things happened today:
1- We crossed the date line –  180 degrees of longitude.  In the middle of the night, we went from 179*59 East to 179*59 West and 180* was just a bur.  A stealth move! No longer are we a day ahead of our US and French families.  No longer will we be the first to post “Happy Birthday” on their Facebook pages.  No more 2-day celebrations, which really was fun on Christmas, New Years and birthdays.  We are back into the fold, a small step towards coming back to the norm.  I’m not sure what I feel about that; a small sense of loss, perhaps?

2- We completed 1/3 of our crossing – Since we’d left I had been nervous about our fuel burn.  Oh, sure, we had our historical data, our trip fuel burn expectation, had loaded an estimated 400 gallons extra fuel, but I was still nervous about the reality of this crossing.  Well, no need to fret.  We have consumed 800 gallons to cover 1300 NM at an average of 10 knots, or 0.6 gallons per mile.  Sure, it’s a bit more than our usual 0.5 GPM, but we have been riding into head seas, against currents, on a full belly of fuel and water, and against a few gales.  Yet, with 2,700 NM left to go and at that rate, we would only need 1,620 gallons.  We have 2,100 gallons left, an almost-500 gallons overage, allowing us to speed up if needed (we can go up to 20 kts) to run away from a front, slow down and divert if we need to wait for a front to pass, or even completely divert to a new location if the weather sours.  Five hundred gallons, or nearly one thousand miles of safety options.  I’m feeling better.
  The weather has been absolutely perfect, no wind, slight swell on our starboard quarter, and now the wind has turned to the SSW, only 6 knots, but we expect to see less of a current against us, improving our performance.  At this moment we are traveling at 11.4 kts, 1114 rpm, 5.2 GPH.  



3 – We caught fish!  A nice, meaty wahoo, another Red Eye Lure catch… just like that, we have 7 kg (15 lbs) of filleted wahoo in the fridge, looking forward to more recipes!


Perfect time to cook a nice meal: Wahoo on a bed of gingered leeks.

Wahoo with gingered leeks
Blanch the leeks by dumping them in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain and set aside.
In a large skillet, melt the butter, add the ginger and heat up till it smells good.  Add the sliced onion and sauté until translucent.  Add the leeks, stir, and simmer – partially covered— for 15 minutes or until leeks are tender. Salt and pepper to taste.

Place the fillet of wahoo on top of the leeks, cover, reduce heat and steam until fish is barely cooked.  Remove from heat, transfer to serving platter.  Season with salt and pepper to taste, a pad of butter on top of the fish.
= Serve with steamed Chinese rice with organic wakame seaweed.

2 nice fillets!
Day 7 – June 10 – Another perfect day, sunny, no wind, flat seas, and a whale sighted use to our port side.  We reached the NW end of Midway Atoll National Reserve, under the control of fish and game, and took our heading towards Sitka, Alaska, using the Great Circle Route, as generated by our on-board Navnet system.  But before committing to this heading, we took a look at the weather, downloaded from PredictWind  via Iridium on our iPad, and were in for a shock.  


Uh-oh… We are the bottom-left white dot, on our way to the green marker…
Let’s keep an eye on this baby

Two large storms are forming NW of us.  If we can dodge the first storm, there is serious doubt as how to dodge the second storm which looks very powerful already.  So, we remain on the straight course, a bit south of the rhumb line, waiting for the next weather report.  From our current position, the rhumb line affords a distance saving of 121 NM, not worth committing to it if we need to turn away from it later, so we remain on a straight course.  In the morning, the weather report is daunting.  This large storm is headed straight into our intended path and our NE route is now unthinkable.  There is nothing better for us to do but alter course to the ESE, remain below the 31st parallel, and keep an eye on the weather.  The storm is supposed to dip very low, possibly south of the 30th parallel.  This means also that we must drop out speed, not only to let the storm pass us, but also to save fuel.  This new course means an extra 500 NM, or about 250 gallons of fuel, which is well within our 500-gallon security margin.  

We are at the green spot… this storm is picking up steam.
Plan is to duck southeast till the storm passes.

There is nothing wrong with steaming at 7.5 knots on one engine, 900 rpm, burning barely 2 GPH.  We are in no rush to get to Alaska.  In fact, I thoroughly enjoy these warm, tropical days, traveling on flat seas and preparing meals for a stormy day!

Duck south!  Way South!

Lunch is a refreshing affair of marinated wahoo and gingered cabbage salad.


Marinated Wahoo 
In an air-tight container or large glass jar, place the sliced wahoo, onion, carrot, garlic, herbs and spices, cover with olive oil.  Mix well.  Add lime juice, mix and close the container.  Keep refrigerated, serve cold.  Will keep 5-7 days in the refrigerator.

Quick easy lunch!  Marinated wahoo.


BOOKS READ: 

  • Origin (Dan Brown)  5 stars 
  • The Black Book (James Patterson)  4 stars
  • The Fallen (David Baldacci)  4 stars
  • Red Sparrow (Jason Matthews) 5 stars
  • Palace of Treason (Jason Matthews) 4 stars
  • The Kremlin Candidate (Jason Matthews) 3 stars
  • At the Edge of the Orchard (Tracy Chevalier) 5 stars
till next blog
dominomarie


Transpac 2, Part I

TRANSPAC 2
Week 1
Marshall Islands to Midway
June 4-11, 2018

* I hope you enjoy the recipes and book references.


June 7, 2018,  some 750 NM north-northeast of the Marshall Islands.

 When I think of crossing oceans on board a power yacht, I want a good captain, one who can fix anything in DOMINO’s twin engine rooms.  Automatically, my mind flashes back to Robert Mitchum (or was that Kirk Douglass? or Bogie? My memory fails me…) peeking out of his stinkpot’s engine room, on a Carribaen-blue background, captain’s cap askew, a crooked smile across his face, nonchalantly wiping his grimy hands on an oily rag (Name that movie?)- Well, I don’t have a movie star on board, but I have my captain JP who, if  not as nonchalant as the heartthrob Mitchum, is at least as handsome in my eyes, and a true mechanic.  In this second transpacific crossing, from Majuro (Marshall Islands) to Sitka (Alaska), a 4,000 NM endeavor, once more I place my life in JP’s very capable hands.

Leaving the Marshalls (bottom left of the screen: all calm)


Day One – June 4, 2018 – For the last ten days, we have kept an eye on the weather.  We had provisioned early, not because we expected an early departure, but because the produce cargo ship had just arrived in town, and in Majuro you buy the produce when it’s on the shelf!  From the GRIB data, we were expecting to get underway on June 8.  But, last night’s data turned our plans upside down: a 3-day window had opened, with almost no wind in the dreaded trade wind belt north of Majuro.  Just like that, we had to go!  I just had time to prepare and freeze some cauliflower au gratin and vegetable lasagna.

CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN – 
  • 2 heads of cauliflower, steamed
  • 2 cups Bèchamel Sauce
  • 1 cup grated Swiss cheese
  • 3 hard boiled eggs, halved lengthwise
In an oven-safe dish, place the steamed cauliflower florets. 
Mix the still-hot Bechamel sauce with the grated Swiss cheese to make a Mornay Sauce.  Pour on top of Cauliflower and eggs.  Bake for 20 minutes, let cool, vacuum-bag lightly and freeze.

The beefy commercial bunkering dock in Majuro.


9 AM local time- We are at the fuel dock in Majuro, bunkering 2,500 Gallons on top of the 420 gallons left in our day tanks.  The fuel is sampled, tested, and not a drop of water found.  This load should take us all the way through our 4,000 NM crossing, at 10 Kts, in average sea conditions.  By 1300 (0100 UTC), after the obligatory rounds of Port Captain, Customs, and immigration, we slip our dock lines and off we go!  The weather GRIBS were right.  Instead of the typical 20-25 Kts trade winds and 2m beam seas, we encountered no wind over 15 kts and no seas above 1 meter, except for a few squalls during the night, 30 knots and buckets of rain, a bit of a roll, but short-lived.  
Day 1 – 239 NM made good
Our planned rhumb line… but Moana had another plan for us!

Day 2 – June 5 – You gotta love it when the GRIBS over-estimate the wind!  We are finding nothing above 10 Kts and a gentle, 1-m long swell.  But why is the sun not showing?  We can’t even identify a definite cloud cover.  The haze drifting from the Hawaiian volcano to the North-East is enveloping us in an eerie, cottony bubble.  Engine checks: all is good, but perhaps a few drops of something under the starboard engine show up on the late evening check, nothing much. Time to bake bread!
Day 2 -244 NM made good

DOMINO’s Multigrain Bread –  In the breadmaker (I use a BREVILLE) pour:
  • 2 1/4c water
  • 2 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1 Tbsp brown sugar
  • 4 cups unbleached bread flour
  • 1 cup organic whole wheat flour
  • 3 Tbsp powdered milk
  • 1/2 Tbsp organic gluten flour (gives added structure to the bread)
  • 1 1/4 Tbsp yeast    
Set the bread maker for basic bread, large loaf, dark crust. 
In the seeds dispenser, add the grains:
  • 1/4 cup oats
  • 1 Tbsp sesame seeds (white or black)
  • 2 Tbsp sunflower seeds
  • 1 Tbsp Chia seeds

3 1/2 hour later, voila!



Day 3 – June 6 – 0100 UTC –  Engine check:  OOPS!  Coolant, a lot of coolant is leaking under the Starboard (STB) engine, something like a gallon in the bilge… not good!  What possibly could be leaking?  JP’s brain revs up, now in high gear.  On thorough inspection, he finds out that one of the four bolts holding the turbo is missing, the stud broken, the bolt shorn off.  This has to be fixed immediately.  We are at risk of the turbo completely breaking off, hot, dry exhaust gas coming out and setting the boat on fire.  “Not good,” says JP, biting his lower lip.  “Gonna be a bitch to fix!  Dunno if I can do it.  Gonna need to help me.  Gonna be hard to do!”  

In times of crisis like this, the 1st Mate’s job is to get quiet, trust the captain 100%, let him think, and think hard, and be efficient.  But JP and I have worked together for over 40 years, and when the proverbial shit hits the fan, we go into our team mode.  First, turn off the STB engine and keep going on the PORT engine at 900 rpm, still making 7.4 kts, not losing too much headway.  While the STB engine cools off, I periodically irrigate the STB Sureseal to avoid overheating and melting that could be caused by  the still-turning shaft (probably not necessary but the last thing we want on this crossing is a melted-down Sureseal!) 

JP gathers tools, parts, and his wits… just like the old days in the Emergency Clinic!  The plan? Remove the turbo, extract the shorn-off studs, and put everything back in place.  Fortunately, the wind has decreased to 6 knots and the swell is now below 1 meter, a very long and smooth Pacific swell.  Thank you, MOANA!

The culprit: shorn-off bolt #1


And thus it goes:  drain all the coolant, remove the air intake casing, the stainless steel dry exhaust tube, disconnect all hoses to the turbo, and find out that not ONE, but TWO bolts have shorn off.  OK, so remove the last 2 bolts standing and take the turbo out.  Easy-Peasy.  Now the hard part: removing the shorn-off studs.  The 1st one hads a little stub coming out and is removed fairly easily, but not so for the second one, shorn-off flush with the exhaust manifold.  Simple solution:  drill a small hole in the center of the stud, insert an extractor screw, and counter-screw the little bugger out of its place.  No dice! It’s frozen.  Desperate times ask for desperate measures: Propane torch time!  A few drops of penetrating oil, a bit of heat to the area, and BINGO!  Out pops the reluctant stud.

Always a good idea to have an extractor set on board.  Got the broken bolt!

From here on, it’s all back-tracking, taking advantage of the situation to replace the exhaust manifold-to-turbo gasket.  All done?  Check for extra parts left on deck?  None?  That’s good.  Fill up with coolant, settle it, top it off… restart the engine, check for leaks, shift into forward, check for leaks, throttle up, check for leaks, all good.

It took JP just over 5 hours to fix this potentially devastating situation.  But here he was, sweaty, grimy, and a grin on his face, “No leaks!”  Yeah, I like my captain, the fact that he had planned for this eventuality by stocking on parts and tools: gaskets, bolts, studs, coolant, empty drums and cans, drill bits, extractor set, propane torch, even a new lighter! 
After a refreshing shower, JP had earned his favorite dinner: “Timbale aux Coquillettes” (that’s French for Mac-and Swiss-cheese-and-ham casserole, sans les champignons.)
In the morning, not a drop of coolant in the bilge!  Time for a second treat for the Captain: banana bread… oh, did I forget to mention?  We had a bunch of bananas on board!
Day 3 – 225 NM made good
Timbale aux Coquillettes (for 2)
  • 4 Cups cooked macaroni, still hot, salt and pepper
  • 2 Cups grated Swiss Cheese
  • 1 1/2 Cup chopped ham
  • 1 1/2 Cup sautéed mushrooms

Mix the macaroni, ham, mushrooms and half the cheese.  Fill an oven-proof dish with the mixture. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top.  Bake at 350F for 20 minutes, switch to broiler and broil till the top is golden.  Eat half, freeze half.

A perfect day… (we are the white dot)

Day 4 – June 7 – What a perfect day!  Yesterday’s repair of the turbo is holding, no leak, and the weather is as calm as one could wish for — gentle seas and 5 to 10 Kt. wind, and even if it’s on the nose, it remains quite pleasant.  Domino unleashes her long stride, running an easy 10 Kts. at 1180 rpm, burning 6 GPH, a bit hungrier than normal, but expected in head seas, contrary currents, and a full belly.  We lucked out on the weather window, really, since the area we just covered in the last 48 hours is now buffeted by 20-25 Kt. trade winds.  At last, in the afternoon, the winds shift to the SE, giving us a push, and we are now running at 10.8 Kts. at 1100 rpm, 5 GPH… yes, that’s more like it. 

But a Transpac wouldn’t be right without a bit of drama.  Suddenly, a massive squall line appears on the radar, 16 NM in diameter, impossible to avoid, so we brace for it.  For an hour, we are buffeted by sustained 30-kt winds, gusting at 44 Kts, 3-4m head seas, pounding rain and tons of foamy water breaking on deck, strong enough to bend one of our windshield wiper blade… well, that’s a first!  After a 30-mn relative lull, another squall pounds on us, only in the 28-kt range and shorter-lived.  Once more, we brace and let DOMINO perform her usual samba through the pounding seas.  Once more, we are amazed at this awesome powercat’s stability, its ability to rise above the crests and not slam into the troughs, the smoothness of the ride, and we have gotten used to her trademark “samba” sway.  Never do we experience the bone-shuddering slamming that we have witnessed or heard of on so many other catamarans, sail or motor.  Once more, we silently thank Malcolm Tennant and Anthony Stanton for their CS hull design and strong, commercial-grade structure.


  After 3 hours, at last, the wind abates, the rain stops, and the seas gradually recede.  Thankfully, all that rain has scrubbed the air from the volcanic ash and gasses, and we can sea the sun again.  This was the strongest gale we’d ever experienced, but we had learned to trust our boat and felt absolutely confident that DOMINO would strut her stuff when needed, and she didn’t disappoint. 
At last, the sun returned, the wind shifted to the SE and gave us a push once more as we carried on at 11 kts on 5 GPH, 1100 rpm.  Lunch, though, was a small affair, a half a turkey sandwich with a handful of baby carrots… and a slice of banana bread!

Day 4 – 248 NM made good
Cream-Cheese and Honey Turkey Sandwich
Slather cream cheese on both slices.  Arrange basil leaves on the cheese, add a twist of ground pepper.  Place turkey on one side, close the sandwich, slice in half.  Serve with slices of green apple. 

On quiet crossings, JP loves to tinker with boat design.

Day 5 – June 8 – We love it when there is absolutely nothing to report, but sun, calm seas, gentle wind on our STB quarter, and making 11 kts on 5 GPH.  JP throws a trolling line in the water as a flock of red-tailed Phaetons materializes on our stern.  Meanwhile I attend to a bit of laundry, bake bread, and we decide to bake macaroons together.  If the bananas are now gone, we need to get rid of the coconuts: let’s go grate some coconuts!


Coconut Macaroons
 Mix all ingredients together.  With your hands, fashion small cones and place on cookie sheet lined with wax paper.  Bake at 350 for 15 min.  Open the oven door and let dry in the oven 5 minutes more.  Transfer to cooling rack.  

Day 6 – June 9 – Three things happened today:
1- We crossed the date line –  180 degrees of longitude.  In the middle of the night, we went from 179*59 East to 179*59 West and 180* was just a bur.  A stealth move! No longer are we a day ahead of our US and French families.  No longer will we be the first to post “Happy Birthday” on their Facebook pages.  No more 2-day celebrations, which really was fun on Christmas, New Years and birthdays.  We are back into the fold, a small step towards coming back to the norm.  I’m not sure what I feel about that; a small sense of loss, perhaps?

2- We completed 1/3 of our crossing – Since we’d left I had been nervous about our fuel burn.  Oh, sure, we had our historical data, our trip fuel burn expectation, had loaded an estimated 400 gallons extra fuel, but I was still nervous about the reality of this crossing.  Well, no need to fret.  We have consumed 800 gallons to cover 1300 NM at an average of 10 knots, or 0.6 gallons per mile.  Sure, it’s a bit more than our usual 0.5 GPM, but we have been riding into head seas, against currents, on a full belly of fuel and water, and against a few gales.  Yet, with 2,700 NM left to go and at that rate, we would only need 1,620 gallons.  We have 2,100 gallons left, an almost-500 gallons overage, allowing us to speed up if needed (we can go up to 20 kts) to run away from a front, slow down and divert if we need to wait for a front to pass, or even completely divert to a new location if the weather sours.  Five hundred gallons, or nearly one thousand miles of safety options.  I’m feeling better.
  The weather has been absolutely perfect, no wind, slight swell on our starboard quarter, and now the wind has turned to the SSW, only 6 knots, but we expect to see less of a current against us, improving our performance.  At this moment we are traveling at 11.4 kts, 1114 rpm, 5.2 GPH.  


3 – We caught fish!  A nice, meaty wahoo, another Red Eye Lure catch… just like that, we have 7 kg (15 lbs) of filleted wahoo in the fridge, looking forward to more recipes!

Perfect time to cook a nice meal: Wahoo on a bed of gingered leeks.

Wahoo with gingered leeks
Blanch the leeks by dumping them in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain and set aside.
In a large skillet, melt the butter, add the ginger and heat up till it smells good.  Add the sliced onion and sauté until translucent.  Add the leeks, stir, and simmer – partially covered— for 15 minutes or until leeks are tender. Salt and pepper to taste.

Place the fillet of wahoo on top of the leeks, cover, reduce heat and steam until fish is barely cooked.  Remove from heat, transfer to serving platter.  Season with salt and pepper to taste, a pad of butter on top of the fish.
= Serve with steamed Chinese rice with organic wakame seaweed.

2 nice fillets!
Day 7 – June 10 – Another perfect day, sunny, no wind, flat seas, and a whale sighted use to our port side.  We reached the NW end of Midway Atoll National Reserve, under the control of fish and game, and took our heading towards Sitka, Alaska, using the Great Circle Route, as generated by our on-board Navnet system.  But before committing to this heading, we took a look at the weather, downloaded from PredictWind  via Iridium on our iPad, and were in for a shock.  

Uh-oh… We are the bottom-left white dot, on our way to the green marker…
Let’s keep an eye on this baby

Two large storms are forming NW of us.  If we can dodge the first storm, there is serious doubt as how to dodge the second storm which looks very powerful already.  So, we remain on the straight course, a bit south of the rhumb line, waiting for the next weather report.  From our current position, the rhumb line affords a distance saving of 121 NM, not worth committing to it if we need to turn away from it later, so we remain on a straight course.  In the morning, the weather report is daunting.  This large storm is headed straight into our intended path and our NE route is now unthinkable.  There is nothing better for us to do but alter course to the ESE, remain below the 31st parallel, and keep an eye on the weather.  The storm is supposed to dip very low, possibly south of the 30th parallel.  This means also that we must drop out speed, not only to let the storm pass us, but also to save fuel.  This new course means an extra 500 NM, or about 250 gallons of fuel, which is well within our 500-gallon security margin.  

We are at the green spot… this storm is picking up steam.
Plan is to duck southeast till the storm passes.

There is nothing wrong with steaming at 7.5 knots on one engine, 900 rpm, burning barely 2 GPH.  We are in no rush to get to Alaska.  In fact, I thoroughly enjoy these warm, tropical days, traveling on flat seas and preparing meals for a stormy day!

Duck south!  Way South!

Lunch is a refreshing affair of marinated wahoo and gingered cabbage salad.


Marinated Wahoo 
In an air-tight container or large glass jar, place the sliced wahoo, onion, carrot, garlic, herbs and spices, cover with olive oil.  Mix well.  Add lime juice, mix and close the container.  Keep refrigerated, serve cold.  Will keep 5-7 days in the refrigerator.

Quick easy lunch!  Marinated wahoo.

BOOKS READ: 

  • Origin (Dan Brown)  5 stars 
  • The Black Book (James Patterson)  4 stars
  • The Fallen (David Baldacci)  4 stars
  • Red Sparrow (Jason Matthews) 5 stars
  • Palace of Treason (Jason Matthews) 4 stars
  • The Kremlin Candidate (Jason Matthews) 3 stars
  • At the Edge of the Orchard (Tracy Chevalier) 5 stars
till next blog
dominomarie


At last Progress

So now that the skeg is permanently affixed to the boat I can move on getting the steering & running gear setup. First up is the rudder.

Mockup rudder shaft slightly off center.

The hole for the rudder shaft is a bit off so I had to enlarge it. …

At last Progress

So now that the skeg is permanently affixed to the boat I can move on getting the steering & running gear setup. First up is the rudder.Mockup rudder shaft slightly off center.The hole for the rudder shaft is a bit off so I had to enlarge it. See v…

Wrangell to Petersburg

Day 22,23,24: Wrangell to Petersburg: Our destination today is Petersburg, located on the north end of Mitkof Island. We must transit the 21 mile long Wrangell Narrows which is one of the more challenging passages. This is a narrow channel and contains over 60 navigational aids and five sets of range markers. All traffic including […]

The Ghost on the Ship


Honolulu to Prince William Sound to Sitka June 27, 2018 We left Honolulu on Starr heading for Dutch Harbor on May 28. I didn’t know it at the time, but there was a ghost on our ship. As we departed Honolulu, there were five of us on board: Don and I, and our guests/crew, Bill Leary (Noodle) and Clay Huchinson (both from Kaneohe), and Kyle Kim (from Honolulu). The “Ghost” was just a dim shadow at departure, but grew larger and darker as we headed North. I could start this tale with a typica…
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Bypassing Florida

 It’s been a while since we’ve done an all-nighter. Several reasons why, but a couple in particular stand out.
Number one: Radar, our senior pup, has apparently developed sea-sickness in his old age. He’s a smart dog so this all could be a show of protest, however he becomes distressed and his old heart does race; that’s not good.
Secondly, me, my old ass. At one time pulling all-nighters was just how it was done and I was quite good at it, but that was long-long ago. These days, the appeal of the all-night run has faded somewhat. We’ve enjoyed and/or endured many sleepless nights at sea so a nice tie at a friendly marina sounds pretty relaxing at this stage in our life.

We enjoy running our boat alone; no crew, no friends aboard, just two dogs and two folks on a boat. This way our unplanned/wishy-washy cruising lifestyle inconveniences no one. While this tack does indulge our desire for independence, it also means we must do everything and that can sometimes be wearing.

So, yes, running all night will be tiring, but after adding up the pros and cons; bypassing the Florida ICW and running outside in the ocean under a full moon with clear skies and flat seas was the logical choice.

== == == == == == == ==

Leaving Ft Pierce was easy. Out the inlet, the forecast flat seas were
as predicted so we turned north and stayed close to shore. Catching a
happy current, we enjoyed 10+ knots all the way up to Brunswick.

Rounding the point  at Cape Canaveral there’s a shallow spot called Chester Shoal. To get around it, one can either stay offshore or run in close to the beach and Kennedy Space Center. Choosing the latter, it was cool to see the Space Center from this perspective.

Obviously no rockets were teed up for launch, we’d have never been allowed so close, but the historic significance of the place whetted my imagination.

Once past the Space Center, other than a another stunning sunset, there wasn’t much remarkable.

Staying within a few miles of shore allowed the use of cell phones and internet; both worked well most of the way and a little work was done. Almost zero traffic once darkness fell, though there was a tug out a couple of miles making about the same speed. He was heading north as well so we ran a parallel course with him all the way to up Jacksonville.

At around 4AM, somewhere out from St Augustine, we did encounter a fleet of shrimpers. The darkness certainly wasn’t going to give up a photograph and the shot below is as good as it got.

The shrimp boats working slow figure eights with their bright flood lights against the dark of night created a visual that was surreal and otherworldly; it would have been an interesting photo.

Then the fat moon that had been lighting the sky all night dropped below the horizon and everything went completely dark. It took a bit to acclimate to the black night – which brought about a renewed interest in the radar screen – , but after a couple of hours the sun made an appearance and all was well once again.

After a long night, the comfort that a sunrise brings is always soothing and always welcomed.

Here comes the sun, and I say
It’s all right

After a while we made the long approach to St Simons, turned, and once again motored under The Lanier Bridge to Brunswick Landing Marina. Ralph was waiting at our slip and after tying up and shutting down, Mel made one of her famous celebratory Bloodies. My tired old ass hosed some salt off the boat then caught a few Zzzzsss while the boys enjoyed their well deserved walk on dirt.

Just before falling asleep I was contemplating my weariness and calculating where we’d be if we had run the inside route.
N Palm Beach – Ft Pierce, Cocoa Village, then Daytona… then St Augustine… then a long day just to be where we are now. 4 days – Long, winding, skinny water — not to mention the fuel and marina costs.

So in hindsight; yes, we’re fortunate to have the range, to be able to go damn near anywhere we’d like, and there is no better rest than that after a long sleepless night. And, yes, we’re glad we did it, however — the ease that comes with a nice tie at a familiar marina can be mighty restful.

We’re fortunate to be able to take advantage of either method …  just not at the same time.

No binary thinkin’ aboard Istaboa.

Radar? He did alright, though he’ll never let on.

Adios,

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

Bypassing Florida

 It’s been a while since we’ve done an all-nighter. Several reasons why, but 2 in particular stand out.
Number one: Radar, our senior pup, has apparently developed sea-sickness in his old age. He’s a smart dog so this all could be a show of protest, however he becomes distressed and his old heart does race; that’s not good.
2. My old ass. I once pulled all-nighters for a living and was quite good at it, but that was long-long ago and I was a different person then.

Mel and I enjoy running our boat alone; no crew, no friends aboard, just two dogs and two folks on a boat. This way our unplanned/wishy-washy cruising lifestyle inconveniences no one. While this tack does indulge our desire for independence, it also means we must do it all and that can sometimes be tiresome.
 So, yes, running all night will wear us out, but after adding up the pros and cons; bypassing the Florida ICW and running outside in the ocean with a well timed full moon under clear skies and fairly flat/following seas seemed the best option.

Leaving Ft Pierce was easy. Out the inlet, the forecast flat seas were as predicted so we turned north and stayed close to shore. We caught a happy current and enjoyed 10+ knots all the way up to Brunswick.

As we round Cape Canaveral there’s Chester Shoal. One can either stay offshore or run in toward the beach and Kennedy Space Center to get around it. This time we chose the latter. It was cool to see the Space Center from this perspective.

Obviously no rockets were teed up for launch, but the historic significance of the place whetted my imagination.

Once past the Space Center, other than a another stunning sunset, there wasn’t much remarkable.
We stayed within a few miles of shore in order to use cell phones and internet; both worked well almost all the way. Almost zero traffic once darkness fell, though there was a tug out a couple of mile making about the same speed, he was heading north as well so we paralleled almost all the way to Jacksonville.

Somewhere out from St Augustine at around 4AM we did encounter a fleet of Shrimpers. I tried to get a photograph but the darkness won and the below pic was the best I got.

With their bright lights against the dark night the visual was surreal, otherworldly; it would have been an interesting photo.

Then that fat moon we’d been enjoying dropped below the horizon and everything went dark. It took a bit to acclimate to the black night – which brought about a renewed interest in the radar screen – , but after a couple of hours the sun made an appearance and all was well once again.

The comfort that sunrise brings is always soothing after a long night

Here comes the sun, and I say
It’s all right

After a while, we made the long approach to St Simons, turned, and motored under The Lanier Bridge to Brunswick Landing Marina. Ralph was waiting at our slip and after tying up, we shut down, Mel made one of her famous celebratory Bloodies, and my tired old ass caught some Zzzzsss while Mel took the boys for their well deserved walk.

Just before falling asleep I was contemplating my weariness after the long night and calculating where we’d be if we had run the ICW.
Our Florida ICW Milk Run – Ft Pierce, then Daytona… then St Augustine… then a long day just to be where we are now. 3 days – Long, winding, skinny water — not to mention the fuel and marina costs.

So in hindsight; yes, we’re fortunate to have long range capabilities and there is no rest better than this.

Radar? He did alright, though he’ll never let on.

Adios,

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

A Big First

Red Head pulled into the anchorage at Northport yesterday. Mom and Dad took down the dinghy in preparation for a morning swim at the same beach Dylan and Dee Dee swam at last summer. We’re pretty sure dogs aren’t allowed on the beach but at 5:30 am no …