The Exumas

By on June 2, 2017 in Istaboa
It’s been a while, but it still feels like home.

After pulling out of Ft Lauderdale, early, in the dark, we eased away from Port Everglades cut and pointed east toward Great Harbour Cay. We didn’t get much help from the Gulf Stream so I pushed the throttle a bit and saw 10+ knots. Our course computer calculated we’d make it in around 6:30PM, but we beat that by about 30 minutes and motored into the marina only to find the place empty.
No problem finding a slip.
After tying up and washing a bit of the salt off Istaboa, we walked up to Rocky Hills Bar and enjoyed a nice dinner of pan fried fresh Wahoo. It was excellent and as always the company and conversations were too.

The next morning came and we could tell it was going to be a bit lumpy out, but we knew it was going to get worse before getting better — so we slogged into the rough on the east side of the Berrys and took it on our nose.
After a couple of hours the seas did settle into a moderate chop and we motored around New Providence then made way across White Bank, straight for Highborne Cay. Again, pushing, we made it into the marina around 6:00 and gladly tied up. We booked 2 days so the next day was a short but enjoyable respite on the island. We enjoyed it so much we booked another one.

We haven’t been to Highbourne in years. The place has become so popular we couldn’t get in unless we made reservations well in advance… and we just don’t roll that way.

Highbourne is a beautifully manicured little island that still manages to hold on to the barefoot ambience of the Bahamas. The other boaters here are friendly and we made new friends as well as caught up with old ones. Some interesting tales we’re told and enjoyed as we sat in the shade of the little gazebos located at the end of each dock. The sunsets, as usual, were quite nice.

Gallant Lady – Anchored off Highbourne Cay.

So today the plan is to run south to Compass Cay and continue our infatuation with the Exumas.
The good news is the winds are a bit blustery which will keep things cool and hold the bugs at bay.
The bad news is the winds are a bit blustery which will make for a messy day.

We’ll take the good with the bad.

Cheers,

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

June 1 – Fall Creek Gorge Hike

By on June 2, 2017 in The Pearl

Allan H. Treman State Marine Park

“To be fully alive, fully human, and completely awake is to be continually thrown out of the nest.” – Pema Chödrön

Ithaca promotes itself as having 150 waterfalls within ten miles of town…we’ve seen 13 so far. So blog followers, you might get tired of seeing waterfalls this summer, but I hope not. Today we rode our bikes up to Ithaca Falls and the Fall Creek Gorge. In the early 1800’s, half-dozen mills were operating near Ithaca Falls and you can see their ruins along the south bank of the creek. The plunge pool of Ithaca Falls is famous among anglers for lake-run trout and salmon. 
CONTINUE READING HERE…»

May 31 – Cascadilla Gorge Hike

By on June 1, 2017 in The Pearl

Allan H. Treman State Marine Park

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.” ―Bill Bryso

It was a beautiful morning (it did rain this afternoon), so after Stan tried his luck at fishing again, we road our bikes to the trail head of the Cascadilla Gorge. This gorge is located in downtown Ithaca and is one of the most picturesque gorges in the Finger Lakes Region. The Cascadilla Gorge Trail connects the downtown area with the Cornell Campus. The trail ascends over 400 feet, carving through bedrock – shale, siltstone and sandstone – exposing sedimentary rocks that were deposited 400 million years ago. You can see ripple marks on the rock surface, which once was the muddy floor of an ancient ocean.
CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Into Vanuatu

By on June 1, 2017 in Domino
Into Vanuatu

Port Vila, June 1, 2017

Arriving Port Vila at sunrise.

Patience has its rewards.  For five weeks, we waited for a weather window to leave New Zealand, and suddenly it was there.  On the tail of a low, we rode the southerlies for 1,100 NM.  Fair winds and following seas for 4 days!

Running away from the storms

We hadn’t made a passage in so long I had forgotten the drills.  I have found that my focus has changed over the years.

Are we getting old or just simplifying our life?  Provisioning is not so important anymore: we find our staples of rice, beans, pasta and flour anywhere.  Fresh produce can be found anywhere, especially since we insist on eating locally-grown foods.  As for meat, we don’t really eat any (unless it’s fresh and locally-grown).  Eggs and fish are plentiful anywhere we cruise.  So, unlike our previous passages when all the lockers were overfilled with stuff: crackers, snacks, staples, this time the lockers are almost empty.  It’s weird how, over 7 years of cruising, we have down-sized our pantry and gone almost vegan.  As for booze, since we now drink only occasionally, the wine cellar is virtually empty.  Life is simpler that way.

Fishing is a main activity on board.  This short bill spearfish is an exception… released

Rather, JP has concentrated on making the boat ever simpler to run,  more efficient, and asking less of me.

Smooth running!

Anchoring – JP had wanted to modify the anchoring system for years.  Finally, he did it.  With the  previous configuration, the bow rollers being way inside the bows and high on the foredeck, dropping anchor in any kind of strong wind was a challenge.  By the time JP would let out enough chain, the cat would be across the wind and I would have to race in order to clip the bridle before the chain would graze against the bow… scraped the paint many times that way.

Fabricating 2 steel extensions – Lower launching point, more forward, and a smooth-grooved acetal roller.

The modification consists in a massive extension of the bow roller, bringing the launching  point lower and more forward, with an acetal roller lathed in a smooth depression rather than a chain-gripping groove.  The chain no longer grazes the bow as the cat turns across the wind, giving me more time to clip the bridle on.  Also, the smooth groove of the acetal roller allows the anchor shaft to roll itself in the right position for storage, instead of the chain being stuck in the groove.  Makes sense?  My life has suddenly improved, and the anchoring can now be single-handled.

Nasty, nasty exhaust stains… and hard to clean
Exhaust –  If you buy a motor boat, make sure that the exhaust is below water.  Sure, it’s a bit noisier, but no soot or smoke.  I was so tired of having to clean the hulls aft of the exhaust every time we used the boat that I had mutinied.  JP had mercy on me and built an extension to the exhaust, directing the fumes outward.  There is still some black smoke stain after we run, but not nearly as much as before.  And, to minimize my cleaning duty around the exhaust, JP painted a big black teardrop.  

Not sure what to make of the tear drop, but definitely less smoke to clean


These are little things that make my life easier, which means it makes JP happier too!





Another big deal during this haul-out season was servicing our John Deere 6081 engines, including doing a valve adjustment.  We just found out during this last passage that this adjustment gave us a 20% increase in performance.  Now, at 1025 RPM, running at 10 Kts, we burn 4 GPH instead of 5.  A significant savings!

Some people look for the pot of gold… rainbow was chasing us and we didn’t want to be anywhere
close to the wind and rain at the end of that rainbow!
It only took us 4 days and 13 hours to run from Opua (NZ) to Port Vila (Vanuatu), an 1,112 NM trip.  After a bit of a rough start in cross seas (2m from the east, 1m from the west) that lasted almost 24 hours, the following 3 days were just a dream, following seas all the way.

Sunset off Tanna Island.  Perhaps the volcano smoke gave the sun this hazy red tinge?

We fished, ran before storm clouds and rainbows, drank blood-orange sunset and were surprised by glorious sunrises.

The market:  peanuts!
We are spending the season in Vanuatu, JP resting his brain and hands…. except for trying to catch more fish!

Baskets of yams and sweet potatoes

As for me, I spent the day lazing around the local market.  It runs 24/7, amazingly.

The fridge is stocked up, and we’re ready for some new adventures.

Even in the rain….

We’re off to Pentecost Island…

Till then.

dominomarie

Into Vanuatu

By on June 1, 2017 in Domino
Into Vanuatu

Port Vila, June 1, 2017

Arriving Port Vila at sunrise.

Patience has its rewards.  For five weeks, we waited for a weather window to leave New Zealand, and suddenly it was there.  On the tail of a low, we rode the southerlies for 1,100 NM.  Fair winds and following seas for 4 days!

Running away from the storms

We hadn’t made a passage in so long I had forgotten the drills.  I have found that my focus has changed over the years.

Are we getting old or just simplifying our life?  Provisioning is not so important anymore: we find our staples of rice, beans, pasta and flour anywhere.  Fresh produce can be found anywhere, especially since we insist on eating locally-grown foods.  As for meat, we don’t really eat any (unless it’s fresh and locally-grown).  Eggs and fish are plentiful anywhere we cruise.  So, unlike our previous passages when all the lockers were overfilled with stuff: crackers, snacks, staples, this time the lockers are almost empty.  It’s weird how, over 7 years of cruising, we have down-sized our pantry and gone almost vegan.  As for booze, since we now drink only occasionally, the wine cellar is virtually empty.  Life is simpler that way.

Fishing is a main activity on board.  This short bill spearfish is an exception… released

Rather, JP has concentrated on making the boat ever simpler to run,  more efficient, and asking less of me.



Anchoring – JP had wanted to modify the anchoring system for years.  Finally, he did it.  With the  previous configuration, the bow rollers being way inside the bows and high on the foredeck, dropping anchor in any kind of strong wind was a challenge.  By the time JP would let out enough chain, the cat would be across the wind and I would have to race in order to clip the bridle before the chain would graze against the bow… scraped the paint many times that way.

Fabricating 2 steel extensions – Lower launching point, more forward, and a smooth-grooved acetal roller.

The modification consists in a massive extension of the bow roller, bringing the launching  point lower and more forward, with an acetal roller lathed in a smooth depression rather than a chain-gripping groove.  The chain no longer grazes the bow as the cat turns across the wind, giving me more time to clip the bridle on.  Also, the smooth groove of the acetal roller allows the anchor shaft to roll itself in the right position for storage, instead of the chain being stuck in the groove.  Makes sense?  My life has suddenly improved, and the anchoring can now be single-handled.

Nasty, nasty exhaust stains… and hard to clean
Exhaust –  If you buy a motor boat, make sure that the exhaust is below water.  Sure, it’s a bit noisier, but no soot or smoke.  I was so tired of having to clean the hulls aft of the exhaust every time we used the boat that I had mutinied.  JP had mercy on me and built an extension to the exhaust, directing the fumes outward.  There is still some black smoke stain after we run, but not nearly as much as before.  And, to minimize my cleaning duty around the exhaust, JP painted a big black teardrop.  

Not sure what to make of the tear drop, but definitely less smoke to clean


These are little things that make my life easier, which means it makes JP happier too!



Another big deal during this haul-out season was servicing our John Deere 6081 engines, including doing a valve adjustment.  We just found out during this last passage that this adjustment gave us a 20% increase in performance.  Now, at 1025 RPM, running at 10 Kts, we burn 4 GPH instead of 5.  A significant savings!

Some people look for the pot of gold… rainbow was chasing us and we didn’t want to be anywhere
close to the wind and rain at the end of that rainbow!
It only took us 4 days and 13 hours to run from Opua (NZ) to Port Vila (Vanuatu), an 1,112 NM trip.  After a bit of a rough start in cross seas (2m from the east, 1m from the west) that lasted almost 24 hours, the following 3 days were just a dream, following seas all the way.

Sunset off Tanna Island.  Perhaps the volcano smoke gave the sun this hazy red tinge?

We fished, ran before storm clouds and rainbows, drank blood-orange sunset and were surprised by glorious sunrises.

The market:  peanuts!
We are spending the season in Vanuatu, JP resting his brain and hands…. except for trying to catch more fish!

Baskets of yams and sweet potatoes

As for me, I spent the day lazing around the local market.  It runs 24/7, amazingly.

The fridge is stocked up, and we’re ready for some new adventures.

Even in the rain….

We’re off to Pentecost Island…

Till then.

dominomarie

Keeping the wet side down, a mishap on the way to Sitka

By on May 31, 2017 in M/V Alpenglow

After three nights in Petersburg and enjoying the Little Norway Festival, we depart early Monday morning, May 22.  The wind and rain that occurred Saturday afternoon through Sunday night passed by and, while cloudy, the winds were light.  We head for lovely Cannery Cove in Pybus Bay on Admiralty Island.  We, of course, drop our prawn pots before anchoring for the night.

The forecast for May 23 is for increasing winds as the day goes on so we decide to spend another night in Pybus Bay but to move to an anchorage that might offer more protection against the expected winds.  Moving also gave us the opportunity to harvest prawns from the pots we dropped the day before and to reset them with new bait.  We head into Henry’s Arm which we hadn’t used since 2011. 

2017-05-054xAt first we are the only boat in the anchorage but by evening when the forecasted winds, NW 20 knots, show up there are 3 other boats with us.  While it was breezy in the anchorage, we were protected from waves that are kicked up by the wind.

The next day conditions are good and we head out into Fredrick Sound heading for Gut Bay on Baranof Island.  As we turn into Gut Bay, the winds suddenly are blowing a steady 15 to 20 knots from the west.  Gut Bay, which is surrounded by steep cliffs and high mountains, apparently offers the wind a fairly direct path from the Great Arm of Whale Bay on the west side of Baranof Island to Chatham Strait on the east side of Baranof Island. Preferring to not have another windy anchorage we head to Thetis Bay, part of Tebenkof Bay on Kuiu Island.

While Thetis Bay was perfectly alright, we decide to try another anchorage in Tebenkof Bay (which is an impressively large bay).  A few years early I had seen (via AIS) a boat use an anchorage and thought it’d might be pleasant.  The anchorage is at the entrance of a very narrow channel which leads south to a nearly land locked cove (a cruising guide for SE Alaska gave this anchorage the name “Eye of the Needle”).

The next morning before departing, we decide to launch the dinghy in order to explore the channel and take measurements along the way.  We hoist our dinghy, which weighs 400 pounds or so, with our boom.  As we were pushing the stern of the hoisted dinghy over the side rail of the boat deck, the shackle holding the pulley through which the lifting line passes broke.  The dinghy immediately falls, hits the rail, tilts stern first toward the water, plunges in, and flips upside down.  In the process the lifting line had gotten jammed into a second pulley where it shredded and broke.

2017-05-063xAt this point we are totally gobsmacked and standing on the boat deck looking down at our upside down dinghy drifting away in the wind and current.  Marcia has the presence of mind to say “launch the kayaks.”  After a short chase of the runaway dinghy we start pulling and pushing it back the 200-300 yards it had drifted.  We secure the dinghy to the boat and have breakfast to let our nerves calm and come up with a plan.

We pull some spare hardware we had and reassemble a working a lifting arrangement.  We first lift the dinghy up at the bow and flip it right-side up, next we pump out the water in the dinghy, then we attach to the dinghy lifting harness which was still intact and put the dinghy back on the boat deck.

In the end, while it would have been better if the shackle had not broken, we were fortunate it wasn’t worse.  The dinghy has dent in the bottom and the 7 year old outboard engine is totaled (2 hours under water and 5 days with salt water stewing inside it before we got to port).  Importantly neither of us were hurt and nothing was damaged on Alpenglow (the dinghy must have struck the rail at or near a vertical stanchion and shows no evidence of the impact).

2017-05-083xAfter we got the dinghy secured on the boat deck we headed south and across Chatham Strait and visited Little Port Walter, the site of a NOAA Research Center.  The entrance is shallow so we left at sunrise the next morning to insure we had ample water under our keel.  We headed north a reentered Gut Bay in calm conditions.  We had a lovely evening enjoying the sunset on Mt Ada above our anchorage.

2017-05-110xFrom Gut Bay we continued north along Chatham Strait to Ell Cove, one of our favorite anchorages.  We were the only boat there so we took our favorite location towards the NW corner of the cove.  In the afternoon, we look out and see the troller Solstice pull in.  We had been crossing paths with them for several weeks since we rounded Cape Caution.  Dan and I congratulated each other on our good choices in anchorages.

We continued our journey to Sitka with a stop at Douglass Bay in Hoonah Sound (and more prawning), followed the next day with a night at the SE Cove of the Magoun Islands.  We could have continued into Sitka but we enjoyed the quiet of one more night at anchor followed by a short 10 mile trip into Sitka and an early arrival in town.

Our plan is to stay in the Sitka area for about 3 weeks and then head north to Juneau followed by a trip into Glacier Bay starting July 4.

Newport to Kinsale

By on May 31, 2017 in M/V Dirona

We completed our Fastnet-to-Fastnet run and arrived into Kinsale, Ireland after a 17-day, 2,801 nm crossing of the North Atlantic. And we shared our first pint at an Irish pub—we’d been looking forward to that from almost the moment we left Newport. This was by far our most difficult passage we have done, with three…

May 30 – Ithaca, NY

By on May 30, 2017 in The Pearl

Allan H. Treman State Marine Park

“The secret of change is to focus all of your energy, not on fighting the old, but on building the new.” – Socrates

Sorry it’s been awhile since I’ve posted. We’ve been settling into our summer home…meeting the neighbors, cleaning the boat, doing laundry, doing a little exploring and hiding from the rain. Mostly hiding from the rain. 

We got to explore the Ithaca Farmers Market on Saturday (pics when the weather is nicer). There’s a nice bike trail that runs from our marina in Allan H. Treman Park to the market at Steamboat Landing, but when the weather is nice we can go by dinghy. The market seemed wonderful but a little slow this weekend since it was wet and cold. I think we’ll enjoy having the market so close…lots of great booths and entertainment. 
CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Dickinson Bulkhead Mounted Stove

By on May 29, 2017 in Koloa

This was definitely one of the biggest bang-for-the buck-projects we’ve done in a while.
We installed a Hurricane diesel-fired hydronic system when we built the boat and that is still running great, keeping the entire boat warm and dry in the winter an…

Dickinson Bulkhead Mounted Stove

By on May 29, 2017 in Koloa

This was definitely one of the biggest bang-for-the buck-projects we’ve done in a while.We installed a Hurricane diesel-fired hydronic system when we built the boat and that is still running great, keeping the entire boat warm and dry in the winter and…