CRUISING SOUTH IN THE IONIAN SEA

Envoy is now in the marina at Kalamata – famous for olives!

In Gouvia Marina we berth next to a 59ft wooden ketch called Acco built in 1938.
Dave and Gwen Nicholson have owned her since 1968 and spent the past 20 years or so living an alternative lifestyle aboard with their son John, mostly in Corfu. They’d just finished maintenance of the wooden masts and we were able to observe the interesting process of hoisting them up again using blocks and tackles plus plenty of eager volunteers.

Acco is a real traditional vessel. The green cover is to protect the wooden hull from the sun

Of course we made plenty of time to visit Corfu Old Town’s labyrinth of cobbled lanes and quirky shops.

Envoy in Gouvia Marina

Leaving Gouvia Marina on 13 May we cruise to nearby Kalami Bay and have our first swim in coolish 18dC water and since then have swum most days.
Our first night at anchor with Chris aboard results in a rare unplanned 0630 hrs departure the following morning as an onshore windshift places Envoy too close to some mooring buoys which could potentially have fouled our propeller. At this stage we’re mostly re-visiting places we’ve been to before but enjoying them nonetheless.

There’s lots of interesting tavernas here where you can meet other cruisers, soak up some local atmosphere and enjoy an excellent cold draught Mythos (Greek beer) or three. The Greek taverna and restaurant staff make you feel very welcome and nearly always give you something for free, for example bar snacks, a dessert after dinner or a round of drinks.

Laurie and Chris enjoying coffee and cake ashore at Platarius

The weather is still unstable as shown in this image taken from Envoy at anchor in Mourtos

We’ve often been told by other cruisers about a great place to anchor called Two Rock Bay south of Parga on the mainland coast, so decide to check it out. Here we can see the anchor drop on the sandy bottom four metres beneath and Envoy is surrounded by small fish which eagerly eat small pieces of bread we throw into the water. We’re the only boat here and there are no buildings ashore so tranquility is complete – a far cry from the marina we’ve so recently left.

There’s a gentle swell rolling into the bay so we deploy our paravanes and flopper stoppers for the first time this season to reduce Envoy’s roll to barely discernible.

Envoy at anchor in Two Rock Bay with paravanes and flopper-stoppers deployed

Panorama of Two Rock Bay from Envoy

Lots of seaweed has been washed ashore by heavy seas

Di and Laurie at Two Rock Bay

Envoy at Two Rock Bay 

This is a touch of paradise and we spend most of the following morning in our RHIB exploring the rocky shoreline and a sandy beach covered with flotsam – days like this are what it’s all about.

We’re going to spend the next night anchored off Lefkas marina and we time our arrival at the Lefkas Canal swing bridge perfectly for the on-the-hour opening at 1800hrs. Only problem is there’s no one here to operate the bridge. We carefully maneuver in the shallow confined area for another hour and fortunately the operator shows up at 1900hr to let us and other vessels through.

TECHNICAL
Since Sailand fitted our new throttle cable the Lugger engine has not achieved full rpm, so Panos comes aboard to adjust it and solve this issue. It’s not really important as we never cruise above about 1,800 rpm, but now we can achieve 2,150 if we want to.

Meanwhile we’re still monitoring our slight sea water leak to the forward bilge. We’re convinced it has something to do with our aircon unit, as that’s the only equipment in the area of the leak. But with the seacock closed we’re still getting a slight leak and we’re presuming it must be leaking from a hose or hose joint coming from the aircon’s sea water cooling discharge. We’ve eyeballed the aircon but unfortunately the hoses can’t be accessed as they disappear under some decking. This is work in progress and not a concern as we’re talking about less than half a litre a day – no need for life jackets yet!

I mentioned last posting that our close friend Chris, aka MacGyver, has been a huge help aboard Envoy undertaking both maintenance and improvement projects.
Here are some of the projects Chris has achieved so far on this visit:
-Prior to arriving he built a constant 19 volt DC voltage power supply device for Di’s computer that runs from Envoy’s nominal 12 volt power supply. This enables her computer to charge and run at any time regardless of the normal variations in nominal 12 volt output (depending on state of battery charge) and without needing to use our relatively current-hungry inverter to power the AC-driven charger.
-Installed a remote wireless temperature and humidity monitoring system measuring conditions inside the pilothouse, outside in the cockpit and in the engine room.
-Bought the components for and built a portable miniature bilge pump so we can more easily pump water out of the bilges below the water level that the main bilge pumps can pump from. Although our bilges are mostly dry some sea water and/or fresh water inevitably ends up there from spillages, rain and from the prop shaft gland.
-Bought the components for and built a system to pump fresh water from portable 25L water containers carried in the RHIB into Envoy’s water tanks. Although we have a water maker it’s very convenient to be able to get fresh water ashore in containers and the pump saves lifting the heavy containers aboard for decanting.

-Modified our boarding ladder to make it more rigid and the steps more stable.
-Modified and fixed our washing machine detergent supply drawer which had broken through wear and tear.
-Fine-tuned our stereo/DVD sound system to provide better quality sound.
-Fixed faulty wiring on our Yanmar wing engine’s tachometer.
-Repaired some cosmetic wooden laminate in our galley.
-Improved safety insulation around some heavy-duty engine room DC cable terminals.
-Replaced some failed silicone beading around our anchor pulpit.
-Improved our cockpit fresh water wash down system and forward sea water wash down system by sourcing and replacing old and leaking components.
-Fixed faulty switch on air circulation fan in guest cabin.

And it continues … more on this next posting.

2016-16 Redfish Bay, Whale Bay, Sitka

Wednesday, June 8, 2016

On Wednesday 7AM we pulled the hook and headed deep into the head of Redfish Bay to retrieve our crap traps.  Our hopes of dining on fresh crab evaporated when we noticed a pair of sea otters lounging in the back bay.  The otters have steadily reduced the SE Alaska crab population over the years such that when you see one, you can be assured there are no crabs remaining in the area.

Redfish Bay looking one mile inside to 1st Narrows.  2nd Narrows and
the Head are not visible at 3 miles from the mouth.

After pulling the empties and exiting the Bay, we turned towards Whale Bay, our favorite King salmon fishing zone. During our smooth cruise northward, we passed the yachts Canadian Mist and Shearwater headed southward.  During brief VHF conversations we learned that Whale Bay hadn’t yielded any Kings for them.

We entered the Bay with lowered expectations, dragging hootchies along the North side. Soon we were elated to land our first King of the season.  The Bay was generous to the Wild Blue and after four Kings in two hours we anchored in Kritoi for lunch and a nap.  At the evening slack tide, we netted two more kings completing the daily limit for our three guests.

Next it was up Small Arm for the nicest anchorage in the Bay.  Alex marinated King fillets in soy and lemon juice with crushed garlic, salt, pepper, lemon olive oil, wine and capers then slowly barbecued them on ocean soaked cedar planks. The entrée was served on the plank with rice and peas and was tasty enough to delight the pallet of the most discriminating epicurean.  “Hunt for the Red October” was screened for and enjoyed by Shawn.

Roger knows how to pose for a fishing photo: wear the Wild Blue
boat cap, look serious, and s-t-r-e-t-c-h that fish!
Shawn is learning from Roger.
Four of the six fish landed on Wednesday which are 29 to 32 inches long.
Fresh King salmon fillets on cedar planks in the BBQ.

Thursday and Friday, June 9-10, 2016

Thursday’s fishing the northern side of the Whale Bay entrance and the Krishka Island’s NW corner yielded just four kings. That’s pretty good and there is still Friday.

Anytime while trolling for salmon near the bottom, sometimes “by-catch” such as small fish go for the bait or lure action.  These so-called “shakers” usually don’t even wiggle the rod.  They reduce fishing time because they’re large enough so that target fish, the King salmon, will not go after them.  A good fisherman periodically reels in to check his bait and only then are the small fish are revealed.  The fish is then quickly unhooked and returned to the sea.  Many are the bottom fish which take a couple minutes to recover and swim back down into the deep. Just seconds after being sighted while still at the surface, most are talon-fetched for the an eagle’s dinner.

Such was the case today for Shawn as he quickly reeled in a small rock cod.  As the flasher and hooked fish broke the surface 2-feet of the boat’s stern, unbeknownst to Shawn, a hungry eagle sighted it.  Before Shawn could remove the rod from the holder, the bird grabbed the still-hooked fish and flew.  There was a slight pause, then a loud crack as the eagle powered off breaking the fishing rod in half!

Eagle dive-bombed rock fish still on the hook.  Instead
of the line breaking, the rod broke!

After dinner, continuing in tour patriotic movie theme, we enjoyed “The Patriot”.

Friday mid-morning after four hours of hootchie dragging, we reeled’em in and headed away from the Bay for Bjorka Island.  Due to the low tide on the inside route at Second Narrows, we took the outside route which featured a light breeze and low swell.  By 11 AM we again started trolling but without action.  After 2 hours we called it a day and headed to town.  Sitka Harbors found the Wild Blue moorage at familiar Eliason Harbor where we cleaned up for the evening concert at the Sitka Classicial Music Festival.

Each June for the last five years or so, Alex, Pat and crews have enjoyed the sounds of the Sitka Music Festival.  Tonight’s performance features the world renown Cypress Spring Quartet of San Francisco.  This classical music group has practiced and performed throughout the world for the past 20 years, recording 16 albums.  Amongst their numerous accolades, they also have been heard on the Netflix original series House of Cards. They play exceptional music instruments including violins by Antonio Stradivari (1681), and Carlo Bergonzi (1733), and a cello by Hiermonyous Amati II (1701).  This is their final year together and tonight’s performance is 3rd to last as the Quartet.

Over the past four summers or so,  Patrick and Miriam of the Selene 55 Spirit and Alex on Wild Blue have hosted the Cypress Spring Quartet and friends for fishing excursions out of Sitka.  They’ve done well landing their daily limits of King salmon.

On stage at the Sitka Classical Music Festival
CecilyWard, violin, Tom Stone, violin, Jennifer Kloetzel, cello, Ethan Filner, viola
The Sitka Fishing Musicians: Cypress Quartet, Zuill Bailey-Music Director,
friends and kids with Patrick and Miriam of the yacht Spirit and
Alex of the yacht Wild Blue.

Our First Rocket Launch

We had the countdown online and we were watching in the general direction.Then we saw the smoke. WOW!!No, this is not what we saw. But, I did send this pic to a couple of old buddies just to get them excited.(This shot was done by Jack Krause of Americ…

Space Coast

Yep, we were heading north, but as we often do,  we altered course and plans. A new inflatable in being built for us by Novurania in Vero Beach so we’ve reversed directions and we’re heading for Ft. Pierce.By chance, there was a rocket launch sche…

I admit, I’ve been slackin’!

Yes it’s true. I’ve been slackin’ of late. Finished my contract with the Gubment on June 1st and here it is 11 days later before I get into the boat shed in earnest. It’s been a wacky last week and a half. Yesterday we had to put down or cat, Shadow. S…

Cracker Boy Boat Works

When we hauled out in Whangarie, New Zealand near the end of 2013, we didn’t expect to go more than 2.5 years before the next haulout. We finally lifted Dirona again at Cracker Boy Boat Works in West Palm Beach. In the nine days that followed, we cleaned and painted the bottom; re-applied Propspeed to…

Going Furthur Review

GOING FURTHUR DOCUMENTARY

Review by Brian Calvert, “The Captain”



The task; Bring fifty-year-old legends to life, reincarnate tales that formed our lives and our culture. Then bring it to the present; with two and a half months, 15,000 miles and countless unique and interesting personal encounters. All while describing what was indescribable, defining that which had no definition and bringing forth emotions only those who were there could have had, all in one movie.  Given the pace today, do it all in less time than the four hour Woodstock documentary keeping that documentary as the gold standard.  That is the challenge that Lotus Eaters took on the day I met them, the first day of the epic fifty-year anniversary Furthur voyage.  I am happy to say they exceeded my already very high expectations, they nailed it!

The story starts at the beginning, the genesis of our culture. The cosmic gathering of characters that rose out of the primal ooze to take the first psychedelic flowered powered steps to the future.

For those of us who know the story, like a minister knows the story of Adam and Eve, it is a trip back to heavenly times. For those younger or not familiar with the history, those with no idea why they go to festivals, wear Tie Dye or drive a VW bus, the documentary reads like Hippy 101. This story has to be told from the beginning and they do. The cast of hippy icons is complete; from Ken Keesey to the original Merry Pranksters to Wavy Gravy. Each one an apostille ladling us challises of wisdom from the eternal psychedelic fountain. 

Flash forward fifty years and the story flows unbroken. The players are new Merry Pranksters and the bus rebuilt but the bus is still “the bus”.  As in days of old, “the bus came by and I got on and that is where it all began”.  The movie covers the new Pranksters as they come and go, an intrinsically unique and bizarre group crossing all ages and walks of life. The movie captures this array of idiosyncratic souls completely. Watching it, I was back on the bus.



For the young, this movie is not a beginning and an end, it is a beginning and a beginning. Take it in, learn, free yourself and go on your own Furthur ride.



For us “old hippies” the movie will cast you back in time. Going Furthur is a portal to happy days when life was uncomplicated and we thrived on raw idealism and unbridled adventure. Somewhere in the fields of Hula Hoop twirling scantily clad glittered festival goers you will see your fist hippy love, the one whose memory gives your heart a glow to this day. That alone is worth the price of admission.  More significantly it will show you all was not in vain, the spirit lives on in the young. Watching this movie will inspire you to go forth and connect with the young, dance with them, rap with them, even learn to Hula Hoop with them again. So watch Going Furthur, let it lift your heart and drink from the fountain!



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Going Furthur Review


GOING FURTHUR DOCUMENTARY Review by Brian Calvert, “The Captain”   The task; Bring fifty-year-old legends to life, reincarnate tales that formed our lives and our culture. Then bring it to the present; with two and a half months, 15,000 miles and countless unique and interesting personal encounters. All while describing what was indescribable, defining that which had no definition and bringing forth emotions only those who were there could have had, all in one movie.  Given the pace today, d…

Primo

Soo…..We have some exciting news aboard Idyll Time.  For those of you that follow our blog you will ember our fiasco with trying to take Nate, our Amazon Parrot, with us to the Bahamas earlier this year.(see A Birds Tale)  Well, sometimes things happen that you had never expected.  I am sure everyone has had […]

June 7, 2016 New Orleans to Houma

I will start out by saying “WHAT A DAY”!  We knew it was going to be a unknown stopping point day and very hot so we started the generator to keep the AC going, untied from the dock and headed over to Seabrook Marina for fuel at 7:30 am.  We …