Trawler Blogs

While Envoy is in Lefkas Marina, Greece, we are home in Auckland, New Zealand – but not for long as returning to Greece early next month to commence cruising a few weeks later.

Destination 6: Cephalonia Island
Where is it?: Largest of the Ionian Islands off Greece’s west coast
How long is required to enjoy here?: at least a week
Brief outline: A spectacular island about 30 miles long with a mountain chain rising to 1,600 metres and lush forested valleys descending to the sea. Just a couple of miles to the east, Ithica Island also has several spectacular anchorages and villages.
Must do: Moor stern-to in the delightful sheltered Fiskhardo harbour with its wall-to-wall tavernas and Venetian lighthouse ruins.

Cephalonia, the largest of the Ionian islands, is where the events took place on which the great movie Captain Corelli’s Mandolin is based.

Map of Cephalonia

Restaurant cashing in on Captain Corelli

Fiskhardo is a fantastic harbour where we moored stern-to the quayside lined with tavernas and cafes. Yes this can be busy but it’s one of those special atmospheric harbours that’s worth the effort.

Ruins of Venetian lighthouse at entrance to Fiskhardo

Just an easy walk away is an idyllic anchorage called Foki Bay, where the forest comes right down to the water’s edge and the crystal clear water is ideal for snorkelling.

Envoy anchored in idyllic Foki Bay

At a lone taverna here we enjoyed an evening drink and heard the faint ring of a goat bell that shortly turned into a cacophony as a huge herd of goats passed close-by.

Wandering goats outside Foki Bay’s taverna

Nearly half way down the east coast is the village of Ay Eufimia where you can anchor in the harbour, but with a forecast of Force 7-8 winds, thunderstorms and very rough seas we elected to moor quayside and enjoyed perfect safety.

Envoy alongside Ay Eufimia’s wharf with stormy skies overhead

Ay Eufimia on a better day – note traditionally garbed priest

At the island’s main town, Argostoli, on the south-west coast, again you can anchor out or go alongside the quay and this is a delightful quiet town with interesting architecture and good shopping.
On Cephalonia’s wild west coast is the tiny but stunning village of Assos with its barely 200 metres by 100 metres harbour overlooked by the ruins of a huge Venetian Fortress dating from 1593, with impregnable walls totaling 2km long making it one of Greece’s largest. Originally built for protection against Turks and pirates the fortress eventually became a prison and was used as such by the Germans during WW2. It eventually closed in 1953 after a devastating earthquake, although people continued to live there until the late 1960s.

The enchanting small harbour of Assos

Envoy in the very un-crowded anchorage of Assos – what better could you get?