Great Saturday

Had a productive day. Got diesel, changed the oil and got Spirit onto a floating dock. Tying the floating dock to the roof after picking up and installing the foam insulation that provides the flotation. Using new electric oil extractor to re…

Great Saturday

Had a productive day. Got diesel, changed the oil and got Spirit onto a floating dock. Tying the floating dock to the roof after picking up and installing the foam insulation that provides the flotation. Using new electric oil extractor to re…

Alaska 2015 – On to Ketchikan

May 4, 2015

After pulling the pots (8 crab, 57 prawns) we headed into Lama Passage and stopped for one hour at Shearwater to fix a problem with one of the fishing licenses, take on water and some provisions.
Heading out Seaforth Channel we nosed out past Ivory Island and ran into a big westerly swell made worse by an ebb tide.  Both boats called it quits and turned back to go up Reid Passage, Perceival Narrows and then Oscar Passage to Finlayson Channel.  Our destination for the evening is Bottleneck Inlet, a bombproof anchorage with good mud for holding.
While underway the crew of Spirit cooked and cleaned the crab and prepared crab mac & cheese for a late dinner after a long day, with pouring rain most of the day.  At 1930 we rafted alongside Steel Tiger and hoisted the cocktail flag and then dinner.

The rain continued all night long.

May 5, 2015

Since we have only 30 miles to go today, we broke up the raft at 0945 and headed out the inlet.  At a +5 ft. low tide we only had 15 feet in the shallowest part of the entrance, so the charts are correct.

The trip through Heikish Narrows and Princess Royal Channel was uneventful from a weather standpoint, since the sun came out, but still occasional rain showers.  We saw our first humpback whale of the season, and the first black bear on the beach as we entered Khutze Inlet.  The anchorage in front of the falls was empty.  The greenery was the most we have ever seen, so spring arrived early.

First Black Bear sighting of the season
We made a short trip up the Khutze River until the water was too shallow to go further, but only saw seals and lots of moss on the trees.

Spirit and Steel Tiger in Khutze Inlet

Trees with more moss than needles

Some of the bountiful crab in Khutze Inlet
After setting the crab pots we relaxed and prepared for our Cinco de Mayo celebration with Steel Tiger.  About 1830 we pulled the pots and were pleasantly surprised at the number of legal crab.  We kept the 12 largest and released 18 others.  Steel Tiger did the same.

May 6, 2015

Departing Khutze Inlet at 0800 we immediately ran into dense fog in Princess Royal Channel which persisted to about 5 miles beyond Butedale.  The sun came out with a light breeze as we exited Princess Royal Channel, crossed Wright Sound past Gribbel Island and entered Grenville Channel.  With the current assisting us, we changed the destination from Lowe Inlet to Baker Inlet.

The favorable current ended as we approached Klewnuggit Inlet and the tide was more than 2 hours past high slack water as Spirit entered Watts Narrows, the entrance to Baker Inlet.  The current was about 3 knots against us, and all the GPS receivers on board lost lock in the middle of the 1000 yard long by 200 foot wide channel.  Pushing on through, followed by Steel Tiger, we both went to the head of the inlet and rafted together for the evening.  Steel Tiger reported the bottom was sticky black mud as they anchored.

Fog begins to lift in Princess Royal Channel

Cruising to the head of Baker Inlet
May 7, 2015

Both boats departed Baker Inlet shortly before 0600.  The high slack water occurred at 0400, so Watts Narrows was running at full ebb by the time we arrived at 0625.  It was a wild ride out, sharing the narrow fairway with logs also heading out.  Sometimes full rudder was required to keep Spirit in the middle of the channel as the strong eddies tried to move us all over.  After a successful exit, both crews decided that doing that again at other than slack water would not be a good idea.

Proceeding up Grenville Channel, we contacted US Customs and got permission to anchor in Foggy Bay for the evening.  Entering Chatham Sound, the wind remained light with nothing more than a 1-2 foot swell as we headed for the Green Island Lighthouse and then across Dixon Entrance to Foggy Bay.  The wind and seas were as calm as we have ever seen, so by 1445 we had crossed back into US waters and at 1620 were anchored in Foggy Bay.  Shortly after Steel Tiger rafted alongside and after an early dinner we all retired for the final push to Ketchikan.

We have now covered 655 nautical miles since leaving Anacortes on April 22.

May 8, 2015 – Final Leg to Ketchikan

Pulling the anchor from Foggy Bay at 0700 we headed out in glassy calm seas north up Revillagigido Channel and after an uneventful trip docked at City Floats at Ketchikan at 1210.  Bob and Dianne Tucker met us shortly after docking.  They will be with us until Juneau.  The skies were sunny, the temperature warm enough for shorts and after rinsing the salt off the boat we headed out sightseeing in a rental car, stopping at Totem Bight and Settler’s Cove before returning for cocktails on the dock in the sun.

Another beautiful evening in Foggy Bay

Totem peeking out of the trees in Totem Bight
The details are incredible!

Eagle and Raven

Totem in Totem Bight

The Johnson’s and Tucker’s at Settler’s Cove

This time of year the skunk cabbage is prolific
“Docktails” at City Floats, Ketchikan

We covered 691 nautical miles reaching Ketchikan.  We will depart Sunday for points north.

Waiting For Ana

We’ve been meandering our way north at what feels like an excruciatingly slow place, and currently we’re tied to a dock at Barefoot Landing Marina in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. Which, if you check out the weather, is in line … Continue reading →

Blue Heaven 2015-05-08 10:58:00

I promise, I didn’t fall off the face of the earth!I’ve been spending 12 hours a day on weekends since we arrived on April 19th moving aboard Olympia for the summer.  There really are not enough hours in the day for this, believe me.  If I ca…

Blue Heaven 2015-05-08 09:58:00

I promise, I didn’t fall off the face of the earth!I’ve been spending 12 hours a day on weekends since we arrived on April 19th moving aboard Olympia for the summer.  There really are not enough hours in the day for this, believe me.  If I ca…

Some loose ends

With the boat back at home, there were quite a few loose ends to tie up. The biggest job was sorting out all the wiring coming out of the mast and running it to the interior of the boat. This took a few days to get all the wires to the right places ins…

ENVOY’S FUTURE CRUISING PLANS

Envoy is currently in Lefkas marina, Greece while we’re home in Auckland, New Zealand.
Although we had planned to continue our Med cruising aboard Envoy this year, circumstances are keeping us home until late August. Bearing in mind it takes around two weeks to prepare Envoy for the cruising season and that the weather turns wintry during November, we’ve decided to skip cruising this year. However we plan to visit Lefkas for a few weeks from September to check on Envoy, do some maintenance and explore some of the nearby Greek mainland by car – something we’ve not had time to do during normal cruising years. Meanwhile our friends at Sailand have arranged to lift Envoy from the water onto the hardstand where they will continue regular inspections, battery charging and dehumidifying.
We plan to keep the blog updated every 10 days or so with material related to cruising and to Envoy, so keep watching this space meantime.
Next year we’re planning to spend from late February to late November aboard Envoy, a longer period than usual, We’re intending to cruise up to Corfu, cross to southern Albania and cruise the Albanian coastline north (bypassing Montenegro) to Croatia, fairly quickly transit the southern half of Croatia’s coastline that we’ve already visited to explore the northern half, visit Venice and other areas of Italy’s north-east coast, call in at Montenegro on the return journey to take advantage of tax-free diesel and end up back at Lefkas once more.
If you’ve got a dream to go cruising, do it sooner than later while circumstances allow. As Mark Twain said: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bow lines, sail away from the safe harbour, catch the trade wind in your sails. Explore, dream, discover.”
Fortunately, from our home we look out across Auckland’s constantly changing Manukau Harbour, so are constantly reminded of our strong connection with the sea.

On to Miami & Points North

Our time in Marathon came to a close on Tuesday. Before we could leave however we were in desperate need of a pump out. Remember Tuesday is the designated day for that dockside service. So we waited awhile and sure enough here comes the guy on a golf cart pulling the pump out cart. Right on by he goes to the end of the dock. By the time I get out there he’s already starting on one of the boats. He assures me that it won’t take long to get to us since several of the boats are unoccupied. A bit later I notice he’s only 2 boats away so I start to remove the cap from our deck fitting. Just then I hear a crack followed by a few choice words and look up to see that the pump out guy had thrown the hose and plastic connector from the boat to the concrete dock and busted it completely off! I mean busted. Not just a fitting that came apart but busted!

Our next move was to go to the fuel dock, something I should have done to start with. We wanted to top off the tanks anyway and they assured us that they could take care of the holding tank also.
We got fuel but by the time it took us to get from our slip to the fuel dock the pump out guy had been there and taken their plastic fittings and nozzle to use on his rig. So off someone went to find the guy and bring him back to take care of us so we could get underway. 15 minutes later here he comes. He connects the hose and hands me the nozzle. So while I’m doing his job he’s telling Pam that he got the job because that last guy wasn’t reliable and that he got it because he was efficient! I’m telling you I can’t make this stuff up!

Finally with the job complete we got out of Dodge and with the relatively calm conditions we ventured out to Hawk Channel and proceeded on our way. We only stayed out there until we reached the Channel 5 bridge where we crossed back into the shallower water of Florida Bay.

Passing under the Channel 5 bridge and past the old bridge.

Our destination was an anchorage near Islamorada where we’ve anchored before with mixed results. We wanted to go to the Lorelei waterside café & bar to watch the sunset.
Well our first attempt at anchoring failed as we started to drag. The bottom here is a thin layer of sand covered by a lot of vegetation which makes it hard to get a good hold with the anchor. We retrieved the anchor and began to circle like a dog trying to find just the right spot. The water is clear enough to see the bottom so eventually we found a small area that appeared to be just sand. We set the hook with 7 to 1 scope and let it settle in before backing down on it to get a good set. It worked and for the longest while we sat and watched the other boaters as well as the approaching storm front which arrived earlier than predicted.

Storms a comin!

All was well until the front hit. The winds of course swung us around and that was all it took to pop the anchor. Now we’re drifting towards shore in a driving rain storm. We started the motors and I began  bringing the anchor up from the helm control. (I usually do it out on deck). I could see some grass and vegetation on the chain but it was still working just fine…until about half way up the windlass jammed. Crap! Nothing I could do from inside would get the chain unstuck. Guess I’m going to get wet.
The bright side of this is that it had been one of those 90 degree days so the rain water was refreshing!
Once I saw how bad the chain was jammed and that I couldn’t get it back to normal I pulled the remaining chain and anchor in by hand and secured it with the safety hook. All the while Pam is at the helm keeping us into the wind and once the anchor was up weaving Tourist through the anchored boats to open water. The deck looked like a war zone with piled chain and crappy smelling vegetation from the sea floor.

Anchor chain after the windlass jammed.

Now what? We can’t deploy the anchor and our spare anchors are buried in the transom locker and oh yeah. It’s still blowing and raining sideways. Enter modern technology. After I dried off and calmed down I checked the cell phone and started looking at the Active Captain app. A few miles away from us was a marina that looked promising. I called and they said they had a spot for us. When we arrived the dockmaster was there to grab our lines and welcome us to Plantation Key Marina. Fortunately it had stopped raining a few miles before we arrived.

Calm of Plantation Key.

Although a little pricey we were in a safe place with power and calm so I could unravel the mess out on deck.
I’m pretty sure that we’ll not be going back to that anchorage. We’ve been there 3 times and 2 of the 3 we have drug anchor. Once with a Bruce style anchor and once with a plow. The time we held was with the plow. And Oh! We weren’t the only boat that drug.

Following a restful night and with dry conditions the next morning I got the windlass unjammed and some of the crud off the boat before continuing on.

Now that we’re travelling the inside route shallow water is the norm and staying in the channel is a must. Even that is pretty skinny as we wind our way through the mangroves and patches of open water.

Cowpens Cut. Meandering through the mangroves.

Today wasn’t a huge mileage day and we ended it at Tarpon Basin anchorage in time for afternoon cocktails.

Tarpon Basin

After our night in Tarpon Basin we travelled past Gilbert’s Resort and under the US 1 bridge that connects the Keys to the mainland.

Gilbert’s Resort

US 1 Bridge.

We were passed on the lower end of Biscayne Bay by a Customs & Immigration Boat.

Not looking for us!

In the distance we could see the remaining stilt houses just outside of Miami.

Hard to pick up with our little camera.

All the while as we traversed Biscayne Bay we ran in and out of rain. Our destination was to anchor in No Name Harbor. A place that we had not anchored in before and a place that typically attracts boats that are waiting for a weather window to go to the Bahamas. The rain let up and we stuck our nose in to see what it was like.

No Name entrance.

Plenty of water and a nice protected basin but once we were inside I didn’t feel that there was enough room for Tourist to do her normal anchor dance of swinging from side to side without clobbering another boat. So out we went and on to Plan B. Marine Stadium, right across from downtown Miami.

In the short distance from No Name to Marine Stadium it rained then quit then rained as we were dropping the anchor. During the dry spell we saw a guy with a rocket pack on his back shoot up out of the water. And we nearly got run over by a seaplane taking off.

Rocket Man!

Duck!
 

Miami skyline as we dropped the anchor.

After the rain moved through.

Our itinerary for Miami was to just kick back and watch the world go by for a couple of days since we had spent some time here earlier during the boat show.

We didn’t find the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Practicing for the Dragon Boat races.

Marine Stadium.

Of  course we had to watch the movie Clam Bake starring Elvis which was filmed in part at this location. There are a couple shots of the stadium but it was mostly filmed in California. And yes. Pam has the DVD!

 Miami skyline at night.

We spent a couple of days just dinkin around the anchorage and the marina next door before moving on.

A few of the cruise ships were in as we passed Dodge Island.

From Miami to Stuart on the ICW is new territory for us. Traffic and bridges is the name of the game for most of the journey.

A low tide sandbar attracts the beach goers just inside the Haulover Inlet.

Rows of condos and no wake zones line the ICW as we move on toward Ft. Lauderdale.

A little traffic as we passed through Port Everglades.

 Ft. Lauderdale 17th Street Bridge opening.

We turned off of the ICW onto the New River that goes through downtown Ft. Lauderdale where we stayed at the City Docks. The marina is a bargain at $1.40 a foot. The only drawback is that on a week-end the boat traffic is non stop and their wakes reverberate off the sea walls well into the night making it a bit bouncy.

We followed a tour boat as far as our stop.

Once we found our spot on the wall we made our way to the other side of the river and found the harbormasters office tucked back in a small entryway.

Entrance to the Harbormasters office.

Of course while in Lauderdale we made our way to one of our favorite restaurants, The Casablanca Café. Good as usual!

Part of the advantage of staying along the New River is the boat traffic. Big boat traffic! Some have to be towed up and down the narrow river to maintain control.
A few pictures below of some of the smaller boats that passed outside our window.

Once the week-end was over we dropped the dinghy in the water and travelled about 3/4 of a mile upriver to Cooley’s Landing Marina to do laundry.

Clean clothes make for a happy Pam!

A few more shots along the New River.

Time to leave, we retraced our steps back down the New River to the ICW and turned North Passing the Bahia Mar yachting center where the yachts made Tourist look like a life boat.

Bahia Mar yachts.

Again it was a day of condo’s and bridge openings ending in Boynton Beach just as it started to rain.

2015-05 Prince Rupert, Ketchikan and Sitka at Last

Tuesday, May 5th, 2015Today we arrived in Sitka, Alaska under beautiful clear skies and generous bursts of sunshine. Just a few hours before town, a school of porpoises welcomed us back.Now the task is locating moorage for the lengthy time we plan to b…