CAPTAIN’S LOG The Marquesas May 11 to June 3, 2014 The Islands and Their History The Marquesas Archipelago consists of twelve islands lying in the middle of the Pacific Ocean 3,500 miles west of Peru and 3,500 miles southeast of Hawaii. The Marquesas are volcanic islands formed approximately three million years ago of basalt and tuff rather than black lava. Each island is different in appearance, yet they are all strikingly beautiful with very tall peaks that…
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Moving North up the Ditch
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It was a bumpy overnight ride from Charleston to Carolina
Beach, NC. We slipped by Cape Fear into
the intracoastal, through Snows Cut and down Masonburo Sound to find our
destination. Carolina Beach is a nice
town with the ocean on one side and the calm sound on the other with cottages
lined up between. We were greeted at a
really nice dingy dock where they had individual slips for each dingy with
proper cleats. We tied up and enjoyed
strolling the town.
We found a nice place
serving local fried oyster Po-Boys that were really good. As we walked near the beach we saw a line of
not less than 60 people lined up at Britts.
We found out that they only serve one thing…hot, fresh glazed
doughnuts! Since the locals promised that
they were famous “round these parts”, we joined the line and chowed down. They were, in fact, good.
serving local fried oyster Po-Boys that were really good. As we walked near the beach we saw a line of
not less than 60 people lined up at Britts.
We found out that they only serve one thing…hot, fresh glazed
doughnuts! Since the locals promised that
they were famous “round these parts”, we joined the line and chowed down. They were, in fact, good.
44 miles up the ditch, we pulled into Mike Hammock Bay for
the night, which is a part of Camp Lejune.
We enjoyed watching the Marines playing war around us in the sea and
air.
the night, which is a part of Camp Lejune.
We enjoyed watching the Marines playing war around us in the sea and
air.
Another 40 miles up the ditch brought us to Beaufort,
NC. We visited the North Carolina
Maritime Museum were they had all kinds of artifacts from Blackbeards ship Queen
Anne’s Revenge that was recently found nearby. We stocked up at the Piggly Wiggly grocery
store (I just love that name) and moved on.
NC. We visited the North Carolina
Maritime Museum were they had all kinds of artifacts from Blackbeards ship Queen
Anne’s Revenge that was recently found nearby. We stocked up at the Piggly Wiggly grocery
store (I just love that name) and moved on.
Two more anchorages in the Nuese and Alligator Rivers
allowed us to rest for two nights tied up at the free Elizabeth City
docks. Kim spotted turtles all along the
rivers and even saw one alligator. We even found a free electrical plug in
Elizabeth City that I could reach with two 100 foot extension cords I had
aboard. It was enjoyable being able to step
ashore and not running the generator to keep the batteries happy was also nice.
allowed us to rest for two nights tied up at the free Elizabeth City
docks. Kim spotted turtles all along the
rivers and even saw one alligator. We even found a free electrical plug in
Elizabeth City that I could reach with two 100 foot extension cords I had
aboard. It was enjoyable being able to step
ashore and not running the generator to keep the batteries happy was also nice.
Another two nights and we crossed into Virginia and pulled
into a dock at Atlantic Yacht Basin.
They are known for quality work and I needed a second opinion on a
transmission problem. Unfortunately they
confirmed that I will need to pull it out of the boat (as I did in Africa 2
years ago) and change some seals. Their
quote was too high so we made arrangements to have this work done while we
visit with my mother in Ocean City, Maryland.
into a dock at Atlantic Yacht Basin.
They are known for quality work and I needed a second opinion on a
transmission problem. Unfortunately they
confirmed that I will need to pull it out of the boat (as I did in Africa 2
years ago) and change some seals. Their
quote was too high so we made arrangements to have this work done while we
visit with my mother in Ocean City, Maryland.
We moved 10 miles to the north and found ourselves in
Norfolk, Va. Here we found the Chrysler
Museum and Glassworks to be extraordinary and, even better, both were free to enter.
Norfolk, Va. Here we found the Chrysler
Museum and Glassworks to be extraordinary and, even better, both were free to enter.
The car magnate opened his collection to the
public and we all enjoyed the artwork and artifacts from around the world.
public and we all enjoyed the artwork and artifacts from around the world.
The blown glass, cameos and paintings were breathtaking and this statues face really captured my emotion as I
discovered that my transmission needed to be repaired again!
discovered that my transmission needed to be repaired again!
We visited the Glassworks and saw a presentation where a
glass vase was created and blown from liquid glass to the finished product.
glass vase was created and blown from liquid glass to the finished product.
We had one more day to wait for weather to move up in the Atlantic
Ocean to Ocean City Maryland, so we went ashore again. This day we visited the Nauticus museum. We spent 2 hours in the
morning just going through the museum and had lunch out side and came back to
see the ship. Berthed at Nauticus, the Wisconsin is one of the largest and last battleships ever built by the U.S. Navy. It was impressive and
Emily liked seeing the oversized equipment like anchors and windlass compared
to our little ship.
Ocean to Ocean City Maryland, so we went ashore again. This day we visited the Nauticus museum. We spent 2 hours in the
morning just going through the museum and had lunch out side and came back to
see the ship. Berthed at Nauticus, the Wisconsin is one of the largest and last battleships ever built by the U.S. Navy. It was impressive and
Emily liked seeing the oversized equipment like anchors and windlass compared
to our little ship.
The weather report finally said go and we headed out to sea
again. It was another overnight passage to Ocean
City and we slipped into the marina at 8:30 AM.
Once hooked up to power and water and rinsed off, we called my mother
who lives in nearby Berlin. We will get
our transmission and generator all fixed up while we visit for 2 weeks. My mother has a short list of handyman items
that I can help with and the whole crew is looking forward to long baths and
beds that don’t move!
again. It was another overnight passage to Ocean
City and we slipped into the marina at 8:30 AM.
Once hooked up to power and water and rinsed off, we called my mother
who lives in nearby Berlin. We will get
our transmission and generator all fixed up while we visit for 2 weeks. My mother has a short list of handyman items
that I can help with and the whole crew is looking forward to long baths and
beds that don’t move!
Tom
Moving North up the Ditch
It was a bumpy overnight ride from Charleston to Carolina Beach, NC. We slipped by Cape Fear into the intracoastal, through Snows Cut and down Masonburo Sound to find our destination. Carolina Beach is a nice town with the ocean on one side and the calm sound on the other with cottages lined up between. We were greeted at a really nice dingy dock where they had individual slips for each dingy with proper cleats. We tied up and enjoyed strolling the town.
We found a nice place serving local fried oyster Po-Boys that were really good. As we walked near the beach we saw a line of not less than 60 people lined up at Britts. We found out that they only serve one thing…hot, fresh glazed doughnuts! Since the locals promised that they were famous “round these parts”, we joined the line and chowed down. They were, in fact, good.
44 miles up the ditch, we pulled into Mike Hammock Bay for the night, which is a part of Camp Lejune. We enjoyed watching the Marines playing war around us in the sea and air.
Another 40 miles up the ditch brought us to Beaufort, NC. We visited the North Carolina Maritime Museum were they had all kinds of artifacts from Blackbeards ship Queen Anne’s Revenge that was recently found nearby. We stocked up at the Piggly Wiggly grocery store (I just love that name) and moved on.
Two more anchorages in the Nuese and Alligator Rivers allowed us to rest for two nights tied up at the free Elizabeth City docks. Kim spotted turtles all along the rivers and even saw one alligator. We even found a free electrical plug in Elizabeth City that I could reach with two 100 foot extension cords I had aboard. It was enjoyable being able to step ashore and not running the generator to keep the batteries happy was also nice.
Another two nights and we crossed into Virginia and pulled into a dock at Atlantic Yacht Basin. They are known for quality work and I needed a second opinion on a transmission problem. Unfortunately they confirmed that I will need to pull it out of the boat (as I did in Africa 2 years ago) and change some seals. Their quote was too high so we made arrangements to have this work done while we visit with my mother in Ocean City, Maryland.
We moved 10 miles to the north and found ourselves in Norfolk, Va. Here we found the Chrysler Museum and Glassworks to be extraordinary and, even better, both were free to enter.
The car magnate opened his collection to the public and we all enjoyed the artwork and artifacts from around the world.
The blown glass, cameos and paintings were breathtaking and this statues face really captured my emotion as I discovered that my transmission needed to be repaired again!
We visited the Glassworks and saw a presentation where a glass vase was created and blown from liquid glass to the finished product.
We had one more day to wait for weather to move up in the Atlantic Ocean to Ocean City Maryland, so we went ashore again. This day we visited the Nauticus museum. We spent 2 hours in the morning just going through the museum and had lunch out side and came back to see the ship. Berthed at Nauticus, the Wisconsin is one of the largest and last battleships ever built by the U.S. Navy. It was impressive and Emily liked seeing the oversized equipment like anchors and windlass compared to our little ship.
The weather report finally said go and we headed out to sea again. It was another overnight passage to Ocean City and we slipped into the marina at 8:30 AM. Once hooked up to power and water and rinsed off, we called my mother who lives in nearby Berlin. We will get our transmission and generator all fixed up while we visit for 2 weeks. My mother has a short list of handyman items that I can help with and the whole crew is looking forward to long baths and beds that don’t move!
Tom
Sunday, June 8, 2014 – Westport to Anacortes
Sunday June 8, 2014 – LaConner, Washington
Last Sunday afternoon we had a mini reunion for members of Earl’s high school class. There were probably about 8, which is not bad considering that the class was only 23 members when it graduated over 60 years ago. The weather turned out perfect and Earl hung the dingy over the side so that we could use the boat deck and pavilion. It was a very pleasant time and I enjoyed putting faces to some of the names that I had heard over the years.
The next morning was grey again. We woke at 5, but hung around to 6:30 am, waiting to see trollers and charter boats starting out. It was not the best timing for the tide on the bar and we wanted to make sure that others with more recent experience were on their way.
It is quite a long trip from the harbor and out over the bar at Westport. It seems like 45 minutes but it was probably less. Until we got away from the effect of the rivers on the ocean, it was quite lumpy. Once we did get further, it flattened out a bit, but then we were into crab pots, sometimes on each side. Nevertheless, we stayed near shore to mitigate the swell.
As in other places on our trip north, we passed some fabulous rock formations. One of the most spectacular is called the Giants Graveyard.
 |
| Giants Graveyard |
We had planned to anchor in Strawberry Cove, right near La Push. When we got in the area, around 4 pm, I pulled up the weather forecast and we decided we should keep going around Cape Flattery and into Puget Sound. There were gale warnings for the west coast of Vancouver Island and the offshore weather was for swells of 12 feet at 9 seconds. Near shore would be less, but still not nice, so once again, we continued on. We rounded Tatoosh Island off the cape at around 9:30 pm and not too long after we were in the Straights of Juan de Fuca and Puget Sound.
We pulled into Neah Bay and anchored around 11:30 – too late to drink champagne – but we felt that we had done it!
The next morning we decided to head for the San Juans for the night, which would leave us a short run into Anacortes the next day. The seas were essentially flat and we reveled in it! As we passed Race Rocks outside of Victoria on the tip of Vancouver Island, the flood tide really showed itself and we found ourselves traveling at 9 mph. WOW! But that speed was bested when we entered the waters south of San Juan Island, a place called Cattle Pass. We actually hit 10.5. Glad we were going with it.
 |
| Beautiful green Northwest |
 |
| Tidal current at Race Rocks Lighthouse |
We anchored around the corner of the pass next to San Juan Island. It was beautiful, flat water and green hills, and we really felt at home.
 |
| Coming into an anchorage at San Juan Island |
The next day, Wednesday June 4th, was a leisurely trip Anacortes. We tucked Serenity into her new home under cover at Fidalgo Marina. Much to our relief, the work Earl had done on the antennae was enough so that we had no problem getting her under cover.
 |
| Her new home – She misses the sunshine |
The trip from La Paz had taken us 8 weeks and we covered 2,344 miles. We had encountered some great weather, some okay weather, and some really nasty weather, but through it all the Serenity behaved perfectly. Earl kept saying that she was just like a duck, taking the swells as the came. We were always confident in the ability of the boat to take whatever weather we encountered.
On our trip, we had taken 2 days for fishing for marlin, 3 days visiting San Jose, 3 days for weather in Turtle Bay, 5 days in Dana Point, 2 days for weather in LA, 5 days in Bodega Bay to visit family, 1 day in Fort Bragg for weather, and 5 days in Westport to visit with old friends. Out of 56 days, 30 had been travel days, averaging 78 miles each. No wonder we are weary! My advice for anyone making this trip would be to set aside 4 months and make the most of it, stopping in San Francisco Bay and other places.
Sunday, June 8, 2014 – Westport to Anacortes
Sunday June 8, 2014 – LaConner, Washington
Last Sunday afternoon we had a mini reunion for members of Earl’s high school class. There were probably about 8, which is not bad considering that the class was only 23 members when it graduated over 60 years ago. The weather turned out perfect and Earl hung the dingy over the side so that we could use the boat deck and pavilion. It was a very pleasant time and I enjoyed putting faces to some of the names that I had heard over the years.
The next morning was grey again. We woke at 5, but hung around to 6:30 am, waiting to see trollers and charter boats starting out. It was not the best timing for the tide on the bar and we wanted to make sure that others with more recent experience were on their way.
It is quite a long trip from the harbor and out over the bar at Westport. It seems like 45 minutes but it was probably less. Until we got away from the effect of the rivers on the ocean, it was quite lumpy. Once we did get further, it flattened out a bit, but then we were into crab pots, sometimes on each side. Nevertheless, we stayed near shore to mitigate the swell.
As in other places on our trip north, we passed some fabulous rock formations. One of the most spectacular is called the Giants Graveyard.
|
| Giants Graveyard |
We had planned to anchor in Strawberry Cove, right near La Push. When we got in the area, around 4 pm, I pulled up the weather forecast and we decided we should keep going around Cape Flattery and into Puget Sound. There were gale warnings for the west coast of Vancouver Island and the offshore weather was for swells of 12 feet at 9 seconds. Near shore would be less, but still not nice, so once again, we continued on. We rounded Tatoosh Island off the cape at around 9:30 pm and not too long after we were in the Straights of Juan de Fuca and Puget Sound.
We pulled into Neah Bay and anchored around 11:30 – too late to drink champagne – but we felt that we had done it!
The next morning we decided to head for the San Juans for the night, which would leave us a short run into Anacortes the next day. The seas were essentially flat and we reveled in it! As we passed Race Rocks outside of Victoria on the tip of Vancouver Island, the flood tide really showed itself and we found ourselves traveling at 9 mph. WOW! But that speed was bested when we entered the waters south of San Juan Island, a place called Cattle Pass. We actually hit 10.5. Glad we were going with it.
|
| Beautiful green Northwest |
|
| Tidal current at Race Rocks Lighthouse |
We anchored around the corner of the pass next to San Juan Island. It was beautiful, flat water and green hills, and we really felt at home.
|
| Coming into an anchorage at San Juan Island |
The next day, Wednesday June 4th, was a leisurely trip Anacortes. We tucked Serenity into her new home under cover at Fidalgo Marina. Much to our relief, the work Earl had done on the antennae was enough so that we had no problem getting her under cover.
|
| Her new home – She misses the sunshine |
The trip from La Paz had taken us 8 weeks and we covered 2,344 miles. We had encountered some great weather, some okay weather, and some really nasty weather, but through it all the Serenity behaved perfectly. Earl kept saying that she was just like a duck, taking the swells as the came. We were always confident in the ability of the boat to take whatever weather we encountered.
On our trip, we had taken 2 days for fishing for marlin, 3 days visiting San Jose, 3 days for weather in Turtle Bay, 5 days in Dana Point, 2 days for weather in LA, 5 days in Bodega Bay to visit family, 1 day in Fort Bragg for weather, and 5 days in Westport to visit with old friends. Out of 56 days, 30 had been travel days, averaging 78 miles each. No wonder we are weary! My advice for anyone making this trip would be to set aside 4 months and make the most of it, stopping in San Francisco Bay and other places.
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