February 19, 2014 Chubb Cay Tyler took the overnight watch and I relieved him at 0700. It was a nice clear morning and we were still on the Mackie Bank about 20 miles east of Chubb Cay. We put the fishing lines out as we neared the bank at Fleeming Channel, but apparently no one was in the mood for breakfast as yet although I served up a beautiful cedar plug. A…
Tag Archives | Nordhavn
The ARGONAUT February 18, 2014
The Captain’s Log of the yacht Argo written February 18, 2014 It is dark now. The sun has set beneath the waves in a beautiful coral halo and I am alone on the bridge. I will be on watch for a few more hours. The sea is calm and a breeze is blowing from the east. It is completely dark outside save for the stars. The night is as black as pitch, which is disorienting since we cannot see where we are going: as the ship rolls, you feel like you did as a kid when someone put a bad over your h…
March 6, 2014 – Heading towards La Paz
The last
two weeks have been a lovely -and mostly unsuccessful – fish hunt. If somehow I had forgotten, I was reminded that
I am married to a man who would rather fish than do almost anything else. So early the 22nd of February, we
left Puerto Escondido to head way off shore to the east of Isla Catalina where
the fish were rumored to hang out.
two weeks have been a lovely -and mostly unsuccessful – fish hunt. If somehow I had forgotten, I was reminded that
I am married to a man who would rather fish than do almost anything else. So early the 22nd of February, we
left Puerto Escondido to head way off shore to the east of Isla Catalina where
the fish were rumored to hang out.
It was
a spectacular day. The sea was glassy as
a pond and the sky clear. One could see
any surface activity from miles away.
And we did see a lot. We passed
several groups of our sun bathing seals and, every five minutes or so, a large
turtle would float by. The turtles were
normally dozing, but would occasionally wake with a start as they felt the boat
and quickly submerge. The water
temperature was up to 75 degrees – a good sign for fish. It was a lovely day to read and knit – but
the fishing was nonexistent.
a spectacular day. The sea was glassy as
a pond and the sky clear. One could see
any surface activity from miles away.
And we did see a lot. We passed
several groups of our sun bathing seals and, every five minutes or so, a large
turtle would float by. The turtles were
normally dozing, but would occasionally wake with a start as they felt the boat
and quickly submerge. The water
temperature was up to 75 degrees – a good sign for fish. It was a lovely day to read and knit – but
the fishing was nonexistent.
Earl
was disgusted. We had everything except
the one thing he really wanted and he had held such high hopes for this
particular fishing hole. The only fish
we saw was a large bunch of bonitos – which was of zero interest to us. So, his patience exhausted, the skipper
headed south to the north end of Isla San Jose.
was disgusted. We had everything except
the one thing he really wanted and he had held such high hopes for this
particular fishing hole. The only fish
we saw was a large bunch of bonitos – which was of zero interest to us. So, his patience exhausted, the skipper
headed south to the north end of Isla San Jose.
The
next day we cruised the San Jose Canal, normally great fishing. Again, we had another lovely day and saw
whales and dolphins, but no fish. We
continued south for the next couple of days.
The weather was as good as we have ever had and the fishing the worst.
next day we cruised the San Jose Canal, normally great fishing. Again, we had another lovely day and saw
whales and dolphins, but no fish. We
continued south for the next couple of days.
The weather was as good as we have ever had and the fishing the worst.
We went
to the marina for a couple of days to get some fresh food and enjoy some of our
neighbors. Emiliano – our electrical
wizard had done some work on the cell phone booster that we had installed 7
years ago. It was actually the second
one, but neither had had ever worked and I had forgotten about it. We ran over to Bonanza for the night to test
it and to my amazement it actually made a significant difference. We had also planned to work on adjusting the
big lights Earl has installed that night, but instead we were on our way back
to the marina after a quick swim. Our
fresh water pump had gone out. When Earl
took a look, he found the pump housing had cracked and we had a shower in the
lazarette. Without fresh water on our
boat, our heads don’t work – not good!
to the marina for a couple of days to get some fresh food and enjoy some of our
neighbors. Emiliano – our electrical
wizard had done some work on the cell phone booster that we had installed 7
years ago. It was actually the second
one, but neither had had ever worked and I had forgotten about it. We ran over to Bonanza for the night to test
it and to my amazement it actually made a significant difference. We had also planned to work on adjusting the
big lights Earl has installed that night, but instead we were on our way back
to the marina after a quick swim. Our
fresh water pump had gone out. When Earl
took a look, he found the pump housing had cracked and we had a shower in the
lazarette. Without fresh water on our
boat, our heads don’t work – not good!
The
next day our wonderful Fito – who has a slender, flexible, young body replaced
the pump with our back up pump, one Earl had rebuilt.
next day our wonderful Fito – who has a slender, flexible, young body replaced
the pump with our back up pump, one Earl had rebuilt.
Our
neighbors Sharon and John on Warren Peace had arranged for a birthday
celebration for John from the sailboat Swagman.
It was a lovely evening potluck and Peter, our other neighbor on
sailboat Formula Won, played his guitar and sang accompanied by a Mexican
friend who played harmonicas. It was
great fun.
neighbors Sharon and John on Warren Peace had arranged for a birthday
celebration for John from the sailboat Swagman.
It was a lovely evening potluck and Peter, our other neighbor on
sailboat Formula Won, played his guitar and sang accompanied by a Mexican
friend who played harmonicas. It was
great fun.
The
next day we decided to go visit La Ventana by road. It is a community south of
La Paz on Canal Cerralvo. It is a windy
spot and famous for its kite surfing.
Friends had recommended the trip and told us it was only 30
minutes. We took the wrong road, so it
took us significantly longer, but even coming home it was an hour not 30
minutes. Whatever. It was a lovely day, a charming drive and a
good meal at the restaurant Las Palmas overlooking the beach. We sat on a covered veranda on the second
floor and overlooked the kite surfing, while the wind blew away our chips and
empty beer cans.
next day we decided to go visit La Ventana by road. It is a community south of
La Paz on Canal Cerralvo. It is a windy
spot and famous for its kite surfing.
Friends had recommended the trip and told us it was only 30
minutes. We took the wrong road, so it
took us significantly longer, but even coming home it was an hour not 30
minutes. Whatever. It was a lovely day, a charming drive and a
good meal at the restaurant Las Palmas overlooking the beach. We sat on a covered veranda on the second
floor and overlooked the kite surfing, while the wind blew away our chips and
empty beer cans.
 |
|
| Kite surfer – Ventana |
 |
| Looking north from Las Palmas |
We had
planned on leaving early on Monday morning to cruise south, hunting fish. It did not happen. The pump Earl had installed proved to be not
much good. It overheated. After a trip to Lopez Marine Store, Earl was
back with a new pump and shortly after we were off.
planned on leaving early on Monday morning to cruise south, hunting fish. It did not happen. The pump Earl had installed proved to be not
much good. It overheated. After a trip to Lopez Marine Store, Earl was
back with a new pump and shortly after we were off.
A short
cruise to Bonanza, which was ours for the night. We will be bringing the Serenity back to the
Northwest this Spring and I will really miss being able to shed my clothes and
jump into beautiful clear water.
cruise to Bonanza, which was ours for the night. We will be bringing the Serenity back to the
Northwest this Spring and I will really miss being able to shed my clothes and
jump into beautiful clear water.
Earl
just knew he would catch fish the next day on the way to Muertos and in that
area. Years ago he and his
brother-in-law had gone fishing in a panga out of Muertos and had fished till
they were exhausted a few hours later.
just knew he would catch fish the next day on the way to Muertos and in that
area. Years ago he and his
brother-in-law had gone fishing in a panga out of Muertos and had fished till
they were exhausted a few hours later.
We had
not been to Muertos in a couple of years.
It is a good north wind anchorage, and with the beautiful resort Los
Suenos on the southern side and a delightful restaurant on the north it can be
a pleasant place to spend a few days –which is what I thought we were going to
do. How foolish of me! 7 am Earl told me we were heading back north
since there were no fish here.
not been to Muertos in a couple of years.
It is a good north wind anchorage, and with the beautiful resort Los
Suenos on the southern side and a delightful restaurant on the north it can be
a pleasant place to spend a few days –which is what I thought we were going to
do. How foolish of me! 7 am Earl told me we were heading back north
since there were no fish here.
So back
we went – blessed with lovely weather.
Just so that we were not skunked, we caught (and released) a small
dorado, and, just as we headed toward San Gabriel to anchor for the night, the
Sea of Cortez gave us a gift.
we went – blessed with lovely weather.
Just so that we were not skunked, we caught (and released) a small
dorado, and, just as we headed toward San Gabriel to anchor for the night, the
Sea of Cortez gave us a gift.
There
were two humpback whales cavorting in front of us. They were finning and jumping and put on a
show for at least half an hour. It was
incredible – this has certainly been our year for whales. I got good photos (using an iphone if you can
believe it) and Earl shot some video clips.
It was the high point of this cruise.
were two humpback whales cavorting in front of us. They were finning and jumping and put on a
show for at least half an hour. It was
incredible – this has certainly been our year for whales. I got good photos (using an iphone if you can
believe it) and Earl shot some video clips.
It was the high point of this cruise.
I just
read this to Earl and he corrected me.
He said the high point of this cruise has been the beautiful evenings on
the boat deck with me and Daisy. He has a point.
read this to Earl and he corrected me.
He said the high point of this cruise has been the beautiful evenings on
the boat deck with me and Daisy. He has a point.
March 6, 2014 – Heading towards La Paz
The last two weeks have been a lovely -and mostly unsuccessful – fish hunt. If somehow I had forgotten, I was reminded that I am married to a man who would rather fish than do almost anything else. So early the 22nd of Fe…
Bahamas – Thompson Bay, Long Island
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Wow
what a great place. There is a really
large anchorage here and although shallow, we managed to get pretty far into
the north to the edge of the 2 meter deep water to drop the hook. There is a nice floating dingy dock at Long
Island Breeze restaurant and they are very welcoming. The owner, Mike, even
runs a VHF net with weather and info for the cruisers. The restaurant food was not too expensive and
we managed to eat several lunches ashore.
There is a Saturday morning market for some fresh vegetables and baked
goods like pumpkin bread and guava rolls.
There are two grocery stores and auto supplies and a few mechanics. Every one beeps and waves on the road and
offers rides. I found the owner of a SCUBA
shop had a garage workshop that rivals mine back home. He sorted out a broken shower hose by pulling
out a good assortment of special fittings and doing a silver solder repair for
me.
goods like pumpkin bread and guava rolls.
There are two grocery stores and auto supplies and a few mechanics. Every one beeps and waves on the road and
offers rides. I found the owner of a SCUBA
shop had a garage workshop that rivals mine back home. He sorted out a broken shower hose by pulling
out a good assortment of special fittings and doing a silver solder repair for
me.
We
did home school, maintenance on the lugger and some varnish work while we were
here for about a week. We had one day of
westerly winds that made the anchorage uncomfortable, but mostly it was nice
and calm with cool breezes. One night,
the temps dropped to about 75 F and Emily was wearing socks to keep warm!
did home school, maintenance on the lugger and some varnish work while we were
here for about a week. We had one day of
westerly winds that made the anchorage uncomfortable, but mostly it was nice
and calm with cool breezes. One night,
the temps dropped to about 75 F and Emily was wearing socks to keep warm!
We
heard about some caves near the SCUBA shop, so one day after lunch at Long
Island Breeze restaurant, we walked over with two flashlights and a headlamp. We spoke to owner to access the caves through
his property and they were surprisingly large.
We quickly found the entrance and walked in…and in….and in.
heard about some caves near the SCUBA shop, so one day after lunch at Long
Island Breeze restaurant, we walked over with two flashlights and a headlamp. We spoke to owner to access the caves through
his property and they were surprisingly large.
We quickly found the entrance and walked in…and in….and in.
The tunnels were winding and must have gone
in at least 1000 ft with several side tunnels.
We were enjoying the stalactites and stalagmites until about half way in
we saw this fellow coiled up in the dark.
in at least 1000 ft with several side tunnels.
We were enjoying the stalactites and stalagmites until about half way in
we saw this fellow coiled up in the dark.
That was when Kim decided to turn back with Emily in tow.
On the way out, they spied
this fellow lying on the floor and never stopped to check if it was real or
plastic.
this fellow lying on the floor and never stopped to check if it was real or
plastic.
The fearless (clueless) Captain soldered on
alone and found the large domed cathedral at the end. It had to be 50 feet wide and 40 feet tall.
alone and found the large domed cathedral at the end. It had to be 50 feet wide and 40 feet tall.
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There were bats on the
ceiling and several were disturbed by our lights and were dive bombing us (within
inches) as we moved through the blackness.
There were hundreds of deep holes in the ceiling and most were filled
with bats like little apartments.
I managed to go back and lure
Emily through the entire cave system, but mom decided to stay outside and guard
the entrance.
Emily through the entire cave system, but mom decided to stay outside and guard
the entrance.
We
saw several beautiful formations and saw the tool marks made by others
harvesting crystal. Emily and I looked
hard, but never saw any crystals.
saw several beautiful formations and saw the tool marks made by others
harvesting crystal. Emily and I looked
hard, but never saw any crystals.
As we neared the exit, we switched off our
lights to get the full experience.
lights to get the full experience.
Tomorrow we will head to Georgetown and hopefully find some more kids for Emily.
Tom
Bahamas – Thompson Bay, Long Island
Wow what a great place. There is a really large anchorage here and although shallow, we managed to get pretty far into the north to the edge of the 2 meter deep water to drop the hook. There is a nice floating dingy dock at Long Island Bree…
Costa Rica
We have been in the warm Costa Rican waters for over a week now.The anchorage of Bahia de Coco was our first stop while we arranged all of our paperwork to enter the country. The government of Costa Rica truly enjoys their paperwork… The have a piece…
Bahamas – Mayaguana and Conception Island
After
we got the dingy fixed and lowered the waterline by bringing aboard more
groceries, we fueled up and headed just offshore to Isla Palaminos. They have free moorings here and that made
for an easy departure at 4AM for our
night passage to the Bahamas.
we got the dingy fixed and lowered the waterline by bringing aboard more
groceries, we fueled up and headed just offshore to Isla Palaminos. They have free moorings here and that made
for an easy departure at 4AM for our
night passage to the Bahamas.
The
seas were a little confused for the first day but the next 2 ½ days were calm
with the wind and swell directly aft. Emily Grace likes these conditions and
we made fresh water and ice as we slipped by Puerto Rico, The Dominican
Republic, and the Turks and Caicos. The
winds picked up to 25 knots for the last 12 hours and although they were mainly
aft, we were happy to find Mayaguana where we had left her back in 2009.
seas were a little confused for the first day but the next 2 ½ days were calm
with the wind and swell directly aft. Emily Grace likes these conditions and
we made fresh water and ice as we slipped by Puerto Rico, The Dominican
Republic, and the Turks and Caicos. The
winds picked up to 25 knots for the last 12 hours and although they were mainly
aft, we were happy to find Mayaguana where we had left her back in 2009.
The
main anchorage is Abrahams Bay in the south and we got a good refresher course
in how to read depths in the water colors.
The safest entry is to the west so we took that one and had to work our
way east through 5 miles of shallow water to get near the town. We watched the light and dark blues and brown
patches as we tried to distinguish between water 13 feet, 6 feet and 2 feet
deep and the coral bommies (pillars) that lie in our path. We slowly moved through and recorded a nice
electronic breadcrumb trail for our departure.
main anchorage is Abrahams Bay in the south and we got a good refresher course
in how to read depths in the water colors.
The safest entry is to the west so we took that one and had to work our
way east through 5 miles of shallow water to get near the town. We watched the light and dark blues and brown
patches as we tried to distinguish between water 13 feet, 6 feet and 2 feet
deep and the coral bommies (pillars) that lie in our path. We slowly moved through and recorded a nice
electronic breadcrumb trail for our departure.
We
chose this island since it was the most eastern island that afforded both
Customs and Immigration check in and a Batelco office to buy phone and internet
access. Even the guide books note this island as a “settlement” rather than a
town and that it just what we found. Tom
went ashore to hand over our $300 fee for cruising the Bahamas, took care of
our communication needs and found little reason to step ashore for the
remainder of our stay. We stayed aboard
for 5 days there while the strong winds blew offshore. Kim and Emily snorkeled in the clear water
daily and scoured the shoreline for sea beans and rare shells. After the first couple of nights, the
building ocean swell found the anchorage and we rigged a bridle to point our
bow into the waves and the roll stopped.
chose this island since it was the most eastern island that afforded both
Customs and Immigration check in and a Batelco office to buy phone and internet
access. Even the guide books note this island as a “settlement” rather than a
town and that it just what we found. Tom
went ashore to hand over our $300 fee for cruising the Bahamas, took care of
our communication needs and found little reason to step ashore for the
remainder of our stay. We stayed aboard
for 5 days there while the strong winds blew offshore. Kim and Emily snorkeled in the clear water
daily and scoured the shoreline for sea beans and rare shells. After the first couple of nights, the
building ocean swell found the anchorage and we rigged a bridle to point our
bow into the waves and the roll stopped.
Once
the winds died down, we upped anchor and pointed the bow west. We enjoyed a calm ride and 150 miles later we
found Conception Island.
the winds died down, we upped anchor and pointed the bow west. We enjoyed a calm ride and 150 miles later we
found Conception Island.
Conception
Island is highly regarded as one of the most spectacular island in the Bahamas.
The uninhabited island is located on a platform that rises out of the deep
ocean 15 miles east of Santa Maria, Long Island. The island has miles of pink
sand beaches, gorgeous sandstone cliffs, and an extraordinary abundance of
wildlife on the land and in the sea. It is however isolated with not even any
cell phone reception or internet (gasp!).
Island is highly regarded as one of the most spectacular island in the Bahamas.
The uninhabited island is located on a platform that rises out of the deep
ocean 15 miles east of Santa Maria, Long Island. The island has miles of pink
sand beaches, gorgeous sandstone cliffs, and an extraordinary abundance of
wildlife on the land and in the sea. It is however isolated with not even any
cell phone reception or internet (gasp!).
The main island, Booby Cays, and South Rocks are home to an extraordinary
number of wildlife species, many of which are threatened or endangered. Long
tail tropic birds, sooty terns, oyster catchers, and osprey nest on the island
and cays. The center of the island is a large mangrove and creek habitat and an
important nursery for fish, sharks, conch, and crawfish. Green turtles forage
in the creek, off the southwestern shore, and in the northern bay. The coral
reefs and grass flats in the surrounding sea are unusually healthy and are home
to an abundance of sea life. One
afternoon Tom was visited by a solitary dolphin swimming around Emily Grace
while the girls were enjoying the beach.
Based
on a recommendation from the crew of Aries
Too, we towed our armada of 3 kayaks two miles south to the mangrove creeks
that almost fill the center of this island.
on a recommendation from the crew of Aries
Too, we towed our armada of 3 kayaks two miles south to the mangrove creeks
that almost fill the center of this island.
There, we anchored the dingy and the incoming tide carried us and our
kayaks into this aquatic nursery. In the
shallow clear water we saw 3 or 4 eagle rays gliding inches below us and dozens
of green turtle heads popped up to see who was visiting. Tom also saw a small (4 ft) nurse shark
gliding by. It was very calm and since
we were only hours before sunset, the sun was bright but not too hot. Bird songs serenaded us while we paddled for
more than an hour when the tide changed and flushed us back to the dingy. We took our portable GPS with us and were
glad to have it when we needed to find our way out of the labyrinth of small
creeks and passageways. All-in-all a very nice day!
We
spent one more day at this nice location.
Kim did some laundry and baking, Emily knocked off some homeschool and
Tom rinsed off the kayaks and readied the boat for sea. Our next stop will be Thompson Bay around the
west side of Long Island. It is only
about a 7 hour trip and we hope to find groceries, restaurants and more fellow
cruisers. Come along, dear reader and
join us to see what we find.
spent one more day at this nice location.
Kim did some laundry and baking, Emily knocked off some homeschool and
Tom rinsed off the kayaks and readied the boat for sea. Our next stop will be Thompson Bay around the
west side of Long Island. It is only
about a 7 hour trip and we hope to find groceries, restaurants and more fellow
cruisers. Come along, dear reader and
join us to see what we find.
Tom
Bahamas – Mayaguana and Conception Island
After we got the dingy fixed and lowered the waterline by bringing aboard more groceries, we fueled up and headed just offshore to Isla Palaminos. They have free moorings here and that made for an easy departure at 4AM for our night passage…
Like Old Friends Revisited
I love Doonesbury — like an old pair of jeans that still fit.Been reading Gary Trudeau’s strip since I was in high-school. It seems I’ve grown up with Michael Doonesbury and his buddies, Zonker, BD, and all the other colorful characters Trudeau broug…
