July 12 to 18 – Frankford to Machigan City

July 12th – FrankfortSeveral of the marinas provide grills so we decided to try the cherry barbecue sauce that Kay purchased to cook some BBQ chicken.  Why make a mess in our grill when you can use a better grill to burn off the sauce mess?  …

July 12 to 18 – Frankford to Machigan City

July 12th – FrankfortSeveral of the marinas provide grills so we decided to try the cherry barbecue sauce that Kay purchased to cook some BBQ chicken.  Why make a mess in our grill when you can use a better grill to burn off the sauce mess?  …

Dronningruta

Dronningruta is a strenuous (for us) 9-mile (15km) mountain loop walk between Stø and Nyksund with exceptional scenery. Dronnigruta means “The Queen’s Route”—the trail was named in honour of Queen Sonja of Norway who walked the trail in 1994. The pictures we’ve seen of the trail in the summer look beautiful, but the previous night’s…

Glacier Bay – July 9-16

We have visited Glacier Bay National Park every time we’ve come to Alaska.  This was our 8th time (not counting the 1-day visit on a cruise ship in 2006) visiting the park and we still enjoy it.  It is a wonderful combination of scenery, wildlife, natural history and solitude that makes every trip worthwhile.

Different from past years was that we chose not to get an advanced notice permit (obtainable 60 days in advance) but rather a short notice permit (48 hours in advance).  That worked well this year on account of all of the disruptions we had to our typical cruise schedule (i.e., late departure and furnace repair).  By being prompt with our application we were able to get the dates July 10-16 for our visit.

We left Juneau on Sunday, July 8 and headed to Excursion Inlet on the north side of Icy Strait. The forecast we for increasing westerly winds and we thought Excursion Inlet better protected than Flynn Cove our usual pre-Glacier Bay anchorage.  When we checked the forecast on the morning of July 9, the forecast for the next day had deteriorated further so we phoned the Park Service and were able to get a 1-day permit to enter the park on July 9. This allowed us to anchor in Bartlett 2017-07-256xCove (the park headquarters) rather than getting beat up in Icy Strait while entering the park on July 10.

2018-Cruise-064xWe ended up spending two nights in Bartlett Cove but took advantage of the time to visit the Huna Tribal House and do the short forest walk around the pond.  The tribal house is just gorgeous inside and we saw a moose with her calf while on the walk.

A2018-Cruise-183xt our N Sandy Cove anchorage we had quite a bear show.  It started with a black bear working the shoreline, followed up with a brown bear sow with two cubs and concluded with a confrontation 2018-Cruise-195xbetween the sow and a male brown bear pursuing her.  All of this transpired a few hundred yards away. The sow chased off the male once but as the sun set, the male resumed his dogged pursuit and the drama was not resolved.

2018-Cruise-269xThe day we went up to the head of Tarr Inlet and glacial ice, we had calm conditions and very little floating ice to deal with.  That gave us the opportunity to anchor in the small bight on the west shore of Tarr Inlet a mile or so south of the Margerie Glacier.  2018-Cruise-284xWe were rewarded with a view of the glacial face overnight (along with periodic rumbles and crashes) and bits of ice floating by.  Fortunately, nothing large floated by to hang up on our anchor chain.

2018-Cruise-135xAt South Marble Island we had the usual assortment of birds and sea lions. Unlike last year, we saw no goats on the cliffs of Gloomy Knob. Also not present in the numbers we’ve seen in the past were humpback whales.  Research indicates that the number of whales in Glacier Bay/Icy Strait have dropped by over 40% from their peak in 2011.  This is distressing news as humpback whales are such a key element to the Alaska experience.

Miles traveled this leg – 230.3; Engine hours – 37.1
Total miles traveled – 1489.9; Engine hours – 228.8

Oh, the misery…

Red Head pulled into the well at Scarano on Sunday ensuring she would be hauled Monday morning. After a few snafus, she was blocked on the hard and being inspected. Some tapping, some scraping, and a hole the size of a dime was revealed. Today the repair begins.


Mom was tasked with managing the dogs. It was hot, really hot, and humid. She found an old picnic table in the shade of the building.

The crew made the best of it.

However, by noon it was in the full sun, so Mom decided to get the rental car and crank up the A/C. Much better.

Dylan, Dee Dee, and Dora finally made it to their new digs just in time for supper. It’s a studio apartment located on a farm. There are lamas…

and donkeys. And even some chickens.

The crew has a little fenced in yard where they are making their own private dog park. And when they become bored with each other, there’s plenty of other things to bark at.

Everyone is hoping for a quick repair but for now the crew is resting in the A/C while they wait for Dad to return from the boatyard.

July 14 – Finger Lake International Dragon Boat Festival

Allan H. Treman State Marine Park

“The sensation of energy expands with increasing relaxation.”―Ilchi Lee

Today we went to the Finger Lake International Dragon Boat Festival, held at Taughannock Falls Park. Dragon boat races are one of the most typical traditions of Chinese Dragon Boat Festival which was traditional held on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month. They began in the Guangdong Province of China more than 2000 years ago. For more than 20 centuries the competition took place as a part of religious ceremonies and folk customs, but beginning in the 1970s dragon boat racing emerged as an international sport. But the history of dragon boats in competition reaches as far back as the same era as the original games of Olympia in ancient Greece.

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Finnvågen

With some calm weather in the forecast, we departed Eidsfjorden to cruise the dramatic west coast of Langøya. We anchored for the night at spectacular Finnvågen, where we hiked ashore and toured the area by tender. The Norwegian scenery continues to impress us. Below are trip highlights from June 6th in the Vesterålen islands, Norway….

Eidsfjorden

Eidsfjorden lies along the south side of Langøya in the Vesterålen islands. From Stockmarknes, our plan was to cruise the exposed west coast. But with several weather systems in the forecast, we stopped for four nights in Eidsfjorden, first at scenic Oldenfjord and later at snug and beautiful Nordvågen. We woke up one morning to…

Short Legs – Easy Days – Long Post

This year we’ve not felt the urge to push ourselves or the boat. There’s no specific plan other than to be north of Florida and we’ve accomplished that already. Hoping to resist complication and just be, we’re patiently allowing chance to influence our travel plans for the next few months. It’s said, “Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity”.  So we’ll stay prepared and opportunity will likely appear sooner or later. If not, we’ll just keep bumping around till it’s time to go back to Jupiter.

No, we’ll not put a lot of distance behind us this way, but we’re not sure where we’re going anyway so it probably doesn’t matter.

On this day we’re tied up at Harborwalk Marina in Georgetown, SC. The second largest seaport in South Carolina, though it’s more a sleepy little fishing village.

We’ve spent time here before and found the old seaport town to be a friendly place. Just off the beaten path and very quiet, there’s a pretty little harbor that provides protection and relief from the strong currents of Winyah Bay. On the other side of Front St is a charming old neighborhood that’s covered up in history; many of the well kept homes were built in the 1700s. Down the street we’ve found an assortment of good restaurants and shops.
Reckoning the whole might be better than the sum of it’s parts, chances are, we’ll become better acquainted with Georgetown.

The getting here has been good. We’re enjoying the trip and the boat seems to be happy as well. The long run up the Florida coast was the right call, but for now we’ll do a few short legs and take it easy. We’ve jokingly tagged this portion of our cruise, The Shrimp and Grits Run — for good reason.

Sunset over marsh grass at high tide – Brunswick Landing Marina

⌘ catching up

Done with Florida and arrived Georgia, we stay in the Brunswick area for a few days. Having been Mel’s hometown and much time spent here in the past, it’s familiar to us.

Over the years there were many lasting memories formed in Brunswick. Most of them simple pleasures like hanging out with family, heading shrimp, catching and cleaning crabs. Our best memories are from the many Christmases we spent here. These big holiday get-togethers always ended with the traditional Oyster Roast. At the Riverside house on a cold night, family and friends would gather around a hot oak fire, tell the same old stories, laugh, and drink lots of beer as we shucked and devoured bushels of fire roasted oysters. Mel’s Dad loved putting all of this together and he worked hard at it: Sourcing the oysters, building the fire, even cleaning up the aftermath was a task he didn’t mind at all.
Those were good days. Yes, Brunswick is familiar to us.

Like many times before, we shopped the Farmer’s Market on Saturday morning to buy fresh peas and  boiled peanuts. Local Georgia Cracker gourmet delights.

Next, we motored over to St Simons Island and Golden Isles Marina. Borrowing the marina courtesy car, we had lunch at Barbara Jeans – Shrimp and Grits and Crab Cakes.
A St Simons tradition, a fine little southern style family restaurant. 

A little work was done for the marina then a quick weather check showed the seas were gonna be favorable. It was decided to move on to Hilton Head.

Leaving St Simons at first light on a falling tide we caught a nice ride with the current all the way out the long ship channel.

A few hours into the trip our favorable seas started changing as did the wind. Now a head sea, but not bad, just sloppy enough to make sure I washed the boat once we arrived at Harbour Town Yacht Basin. 
By the end of the day the waves had turned fairly chunky and we butted our way round Savannah into Hilton Head. 
Being the 4th of July, Harbour Town and Sea Pines Resort was swarming with lots of folks doing what lots folks do on Independence Day. That night, much to our young pup Muddy’s dismay, there was a world class fireworks show.
We always enjoy our time here and particularly like the resort’s restaurants. (Yes, Shrimp and Grits and a bowl of Gumbo.) This is a very well managed, award winning, marina. Harbormaster Nancy Cappelmann makes sure everything is top-notch.
A few days later we moved over to Shelter Cove Marina. Still on Hilton Head island, just further inland and up a creek.  Shelter Cove is pretty cool. many places to eat (Shrimp and Grits), a coffee shop, a French bakery, and other businesses that cater to tourist. At one time there were two different bands playing at two different restaurants and both singing different Jimmy Buffett tunes. Cheeseburger in Paradise on one side, Margaritaville on the other… – I guess some things never change. 
There was a strange weather anomaly, that soon became Hurricane Chris, sitting off the Carolina Coast and it wouldn’t leave. At first we thought it prudent to hang out at Hilton Head and keep and eye on the storm, so we moved back to Harbour Town. Waking the next morning and checking the latest weather info things looked much better so we decided to take off and head North. Charleston was our next stop and we needed to be there at 4PM for slack tide. (if you’ve ever boated in this area you understand the slack tide thing.) 
All day long the winds were calm and the ocean was slick, but as we got within 10 miles of Charleston the breeze picked up. Still nothing harsh, however off to the west dark clouds were building up over land. By the time we reach the ship channel everything changed. Wind gusts of 25/30 were turning our nice slick ocean into angry gray seas; a full blown thunderstorm was hovering over the entrance. 
Weighing the options of circling around out in the ocean and waiting for the storm to pass or pounding our way up the channel, straight into a threatening squall — we chose the latter – hoping for the best when we arrive on time with slack water. Damn the lightning, full speed ahead.
And… that worked out well. In drizzling rain we eased into the marina at exactly 4:00 and tied up. Then the skies cleared.            Yes, all’s well that ends well.  ☺︎
It was interesting tying up at a marina with an Aircraft Carrier – Patriot’s Point

Charleston Harbor was full so they put us out on the far edge. It was rough. All night the boat would rock and heel over from the wakes of big ships passing by. We woke the next morning, finished doing what we came for, made the necessary calls, and moved a few miles up the ICW to Isle of Palms Marina.

Isle of Palms Marina isn’t really anything exceptional, however on a sunny Saturday afternoon it’s the center of the universe. Hundreds of small boats use the ramp to load and unload. There was a band playing outside and 2 restaurants (one serving Shrimp and Grits with Alligator Gravy) and a nicely stocked tackle/grocery/deli. It was incredibly busy, but not in a bad way. Everyone was friendly and courteous and a good time was being had in bulk. It was fun to watch.
Putting a double finger slip to good use, I was able to get to Istaboa’s port side and easily do a badly needed cleaning. It’s disturbing to find what happens to the forsaken side of an asymmetrical salon boat. Out of sight, out of mind.
We stayed here for 2 nights then left mid-day to run the skinny ICW to Georgetown. McClellanville is the snag on this stretch with a reported 4′ water depths at low tide, however I  believe this is falsely reported. (Boat geek stuff) We went through 2 hours after low tide and never saw less than 3.5′ under our keel — (which by my calculations would make it 7′ MLLW.)  We were fortunate to be leaving on a rising tide; the current pushing us all the way to Georgetown. When we hit Winyah Bay, we were clocking 12 knots. Got in at 6:30.

So here we are, Georgetown – livin’ easy.  It’s a cool little town and we’re thinking we should to get to know it better.
So far every restaurant has been better than the last. (wonder if they have a gym)
The best to date— Shrimp and Grits with Pork Sauce — The River Room.

Harborwalk Marina is new (still being built) with floating docks; a nice clean little marina and Harbormaster Chris Carroll’s intent is to make it even better. 
Taking a walk across town looking for a pharmacy, I took the scenic route. This old town is lovely.  
Old Antebellum, Low Country Charm

No, we’re not sure when or where we’ll be heading next. Mel would like to visit Bald Head Island at Cape Fear, she has a knack for picking good places  – so that seems likely.

In the meantime, life’s pretty good.

Something worth reading: What’s the hurry?
Something else worth reading: Georgetown History

Adios

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa

Short Legs – Easy Days – Long Post

This year we’ve not felt the urge to push ourselves or the boat. There’s no specific plan other than to be north of Florida and we’ve accomplished that already. Hoping to resist complication and just be, we’re patiently allowing opportunity to be our inspiration. It’s said, “Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity”: We’re prepared and opportunity will appear sooner or later … so maybe we’ll get lucky — maybe we already are.

No, we’ll not put a lot of distance behind us this way, but we’re not sure where we’re going anyway so it really doesn’t matter.

On this day we’re tied up at Harborwalk Marina in Georgetown, SC.

We’ve spent time here before and found the town to be a genuinely friendly little place. Just off the beaten path and very quiet, there’s a beautiful little harbor. On the other side of Front St the neighborhood is covered up in history, many of the homes were built in the 1700s and they’re kept historically correct. Down the street we’ve found a number of bonafide low country restaurants, clothing stores, a barber, and almost anything one might need. Reckoning the whole might be better than the sum of it’s parts, chances are, Georgetown may offer us an opportunity to get acquainted.

The getting here has been good. We’re enjoying the trip and the boat seems to be happy as well. The long run up the Florida coast was a good idea, but for now we’ll do a few short legs and take it easy. We’ve jokingly tagged this portion of our cruise, The Shrimp and Grits Run — and for good reason.

Sunset over marsh grass at high tide – Brunswick Landing Marina

⌘ catching up

Done with Florida and arrived Georgia, we stay in the Brunswick area for a few days. Having been Mel’s hometown and much time spent here in the past, it’s familiar to us.

Over the years there were many rich memories formed in Brunswick. Mostly simple pleasures like shelling peas or heading shrimp and cleaning crabs; our best memories are from the many Christmases we spent here. These big holiday get-togethers always ended with the traditional Oyster Roast. On a cold night family and friends would gather around a hot oak fire and drink a lot of beer as we shucked and devoured bushels of fire roasted oysters. Mel’s Dad loved putting all of this together and he worked hard at it: Sourcing the oysters, building the fire, even cleaning up the aftermath was a task he thoroughly enjoyed.
We all miss Mr. Ralph. Yes, Brunswick is familiar to us.

Like many times before, we shopped the Farmer’s Market on Saturday morning to buy fresh peas and  boiled peanuts. Local Georgia Cracker gourmet delights.

Next, we motored over to St Simons Island and Golden Isles Marina. Borrowing the marina courtesy car, we had lunch at Barbara Jeans – Shrimp and Grits and Crab Cakes.
A St Simons tradition, a fine little southern style family restaurant. 

A little work was done for the marina then a quick weather check showed the seas were gonna be favorable. It was decided to move on to Hilton Head.

Leaving St Simons at sunrise on a falling tide we caught a nice ride with the current all the way out the long ship channel.

A few hours into the trip our favorable seas started changing as did the wind. Now a head sea, but not bad, just sloppy enough to make sure I washed the boat once we arrived at Harbour Town Yacht Basin. 
By the end of the day the waves had turned fairly chunky and we butted our way round Savannah into Hilton Head. 
Being the 4th of July, Harbour Town and Sea Pines Resort was swarming with lots of folks doing what lots folks do on Independence Day. That night, much to our young pup Muddy’s dismay, there was a world class fireworks show.
We always enjoy our time here and particularly like the resort’s restaurants. (Yes, Shrimp and Grits and a bowl of Gumbo.) This is a very well managed, award winning, marina. Harbormaster Nancy Cappelmann makes sure everything is top-notch.
A few days later we moved over to Shelter Cove Marina. Still on Hilton Head island, just further inland and up a creek.  Shelter Cove is pretty cool. many places to eat (Shrimp and Grits), a coffee shop, a French bakery, and other businesses that cater to tourist. At one time there were two different bands playing at two different restaurants and both singing different Jimmy Buffett tunes. Cheeseburger in Paradise on one side, Margaritaville on the other… – I guess some things never change. 
There was a strange weather anomaly, that soon became Hurricane Chris, sitting off the Carolina Coast and it wouldn’t leave. At first we thought it prudent to hang out at Hilton Head and keep and eye on the storm, so we moved back to Harbour Town. Waking the next morning and checking the latest weather info things looked much better so we decided to take off and head North. Charleston was our next stop and we needed to be there at 4PM for slack tide. (if you’ve ever boated in this area you understand the slack tide thing.) 
All day long the winds were calm and the ocean was slick, but as we got within 10 miles of Charleston the breeze picked up. Still nothing harsh, however off to the west dark clouds were building up over land. By the time we reach the ship channel everything changed. Wind gusts of 25/30 were turning our nice slick ocean into angry gray seas; a full blown thunderstorm was hovering over the entrance. 
Weighing the options of circling around out in the ocean and waiting for the storm to pass or pounding our way up the channel, straight into a threatening squall — we chose the latter – hoping for the best when we arrive on time with slack water. Damn the lightning, full speed ahead.
And… that worked out well. In drizzling rain we eased into the marina at exactly 4:00 and tied up. Then the skies cleared.            Yes, all’s well that ends well.  ☺︎
It was interesting tying up at a marina with an Aircraft Carrier – Patriot’s Point

Charleston Harbor was full so they put us out on the far edge. It was rough. All night the boat would rock and heel over from the wakes of big ships passing by. We woke the next morning, finished doing what we came for, made the necessary calls, and moved a few miles up the ICW to Isle of Palms Marina.

Isle of Palms Marina isn’t really anything exceptional, however on a sunny Saturday afternoon it’s the center of the universe. Hundreds of small boats use the ramp to load and unload. There was a band playing outside and 2 restaurants (one serving Shrimp and Grits with Alligator Gravy) and a nicely stocked tackle/grocery/deli. It was incredibly busy, but not in a bad way. Everyone was friendly and courteous and a good time was being had in bulk. It was fun to watch.
I put the double finger slip to good use. It allowed me to get to Istaboa’s port side and easily do a badly needed cleaning. It’s disturbing to find what happens to the forsaken side of an asymmetrical salon boat. Out of sight, out of mind.
13 years and we still love this boat 
We stayed here for 2 nights then left mid-day to run the skinny ICW to Georgetown. McClellanville is the snag on this stretch with a reported 4′ water depths at low tide, however I  believe this is falsely reported. (Boat geek stuff) We went through 2 hours after low tide and never saw less than 3.5′ under our keel — (which by my calculations would make it 7′ MLLW.)  We were fortunate to be leaving on a rising tide; the current pushing us all the way to Georgetown. When we hit Winyah Bay, we were clocking 12 knots. Got in at 6:30.

So here we are, Georgetown – livin’ easy.  It’s a cool little town and we’re thinking we should to get to know it better.
So far every restaurant has been better than the last. (wonder if they have a gym)
The best to date— Shrimp and Grits with Pork Sauce — The River Room.

Harborwalk Marina is new (still being built) with floating docks; a nice clean little marina and Harbormaster Chris Carroll’s intent is to make it even better. 
Taking a walk across town looking for a pharmacy, I took the scenic route. This old town is lovely.  
Old Antebellum, Low Country Charm

No, we’re not sure when or where we’ll be heading next. Mel would like to visit Bald Head Island at Cape Fear, she has a knack for picking good places to go – so that seems likely.

In the meantime, life’s pretty good.

Something worth reading: What’s the hurry?

Adios

Nordhavn 57-26 Istaboa